This is a great temporary fix. It saved me from having to go to the laundromat, something I haven't done in decades. One important thing I noticed though, my detergent dispenser now does not work, so I pour it in a circle in the bottom of the machine before putting in the laundry.
Thank you. That is correct about the dispenser. It's now using the Oxi and Fabric Softener valves instead of the "hot" and "cold" valves. So, the water is flowing into one or both of the trays on sides of the detergent dispenser tray. We were not affected because we have been using the laundry detergent pods or dry Oxi-Clean powder down in the drum for some time now. You might be able to use one of the other trays for your detergent. I can't remember what they are labeled, but it doesn't matter. They are just for hot and cold now.
You didn’t fix anything. The middle right is your cold water detergent valve…. The middle left is your hot water detergent valve. The outside right is your softener cold valve and the outside left is your oxi hot valve. So if you bypass the two middle ones you don’t have any water flowing to the detergent bin. Unfortunately, not only did you not fix the original issue, you inadvertently created a second issue. Just pay the $30 and replace the valve and repair it correctly.
Thank you for this fix! Our Maytag dryer died a month ago and then the washing machine decided to throw up the LF sign. I was determined not to buy a new machine and found your helpful tip. If I could buy you a beer I would, I appreciate your video. Thanks!
I bought the part off of Amazon and it worked great. One thing that was incredibly frustrating was getting the control panel open. Those clips were not moving. So we found another video that showed how to slide the top to open and finally (sigh) see those clips to pinch them. My washer works great now! Thanks so much for sharing with others and helping to save our cash!
@@jw6451 This one shows what you're looking for. Basically remove the rear top panel and a couple of more screws. That allows you to put the whole front cover (with lid/panel etc.) forward, where you can lift it and access the clips from underneath with pliers. Good luck! I didn't have any luck with a butter knife and ended up cracking the bottom right corner of the silver faceplate. I will try this other method tomorrow. th-cam.com/video/IpLF007BXmw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dliyL25ekTrs1RFp&t=32
Thank you so much for sharing this! I’m the family handyma’am and stay at home mom of 3 boys and I NEED my washing machine to work. The soonest I could get a repair guy in here to look at it was over a week out. This fix saved me $119 service fee plus parts and labor! I also bought a much more inexpensive inlet valve on Amazon ($30) than Maytag would’ve sold me. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Wanted to pass along my thanks to Justin for his idea to swap the plugs for the cold and hot valves with the fabric softener and oxy valve. Once I swapped them, the 'LF' error I/my wife was getting when doing wash disappeared! This saved me at least from replacing the fill valve assembly and possibly replacing the washer itself. Much appreciated!
I just watched this and did it and it fixed my problem!!! Just want to add that since the wires are crossed now - when the water comes out on cold it will go through the oxi compartment so you have to put your detergent in the oxi tray and if you wash on hot you have to put your detergent in the softener tray - the water flows through and mixes with the detergent .
Worked for me! I ordered a the new part and will replace it entirely, but this allowed me to wash until the new part arrives. I had some trouble simply taking off the display with the clips, but other than that, this video was excellent. You’ll also just needs to pour the detergent in the tub itself like the old school days…or just use laundry pods.
Thank you!! Thank you!! Thank you for sharing this quick hack. I have been dreading how to fix my washer. I am the the one who fixes things in my home and I didn't want to pay hundreds of dollars for a washer a don't even really like but need!
You are a godsend. Cold inlet fill solenoid stopped working when we needed to do a ton of laundry. Ordered a new part but this will get us by till then. Thanks pal!
Great fix! I used this fix temporarily so that I could do wash until my part arrived… just a couple of hints from my specific washer. I had to use a pair of pliers to wiggle the plugs back and forth from the rear to remove. The wires were very tight between the plugs and could not be swapped easily. Only when all the plugs were removed could I stretch the red and blue to the opposite sides on the ends. Thanks again!
Used the same hack on my machine. WORKED. I can use the washer until my Amazon part arrives, sometime in the next two weeks. May just leave the swapped one installed even when my repair parts arrives. That way I have the new one if the hacked one eventually breaks
Thank you for this video! While we waited on the part to arrive, my husband was able to use your hack, and I could still do laundry while waiting. Invaluable tip! Many thanks!
The hack didn’t work for me but I ordered a new part on Amazon for $37 and it was super easy to replace! The appliance repair guy quoted me over $600 to do this! Thanks for the video that helped me get the panel off and show me what was underneath!
THIS WORKS!!! Thank you for posting this video! My washer has been down for two months, until today. Getting it loaded and hauled to a repairman has been my main hold up because I have a car, not a truck. It was giving the exact same low flow error code yours was. I had to use needle nose pliers to pull/wiggle all four of the plugs loose for more slack in the wires and then switched the plugs as you instructed and it freaking worked! *NOTE* I unwrapped the small pieces of black tape that were wrapped around and holding the wires neatly together. That freed up the one white wire that I needed just a little more slack in to reach and connect the plug on the far right side.** Hope that helps someone. Thanks again!
Thanks for the video, it’s a great service to all of us at home! What a smack in the face that these new washers have such a short life cycle before we get to work on them though. Ours is right at a year old.
Thank You! The Bravos XL and some other commercial HE models are the same layout (Mine is MVW765FW0) and this video was so helpful. We got the LF error as no water was coming in. Upon inspection, the cold cylinder had a slight crack in it and would fail diagnostics. Since we never use the Fabric Softener and Oxy valves, a quick plug switch was perfect. If it fails in the future, we'll likely have to replace the whole inlet valve, but I wanted to say how wonderful it was to find your video after scouring every user manual out there trying to find the solution to our problem.
Thank you for posting this video. I had same problem and this fixed it. Will have plenty time to order part but washer is up and running :) Thanks again!!!
I almost twisted my ankle to find my phone so I can come here to tell you..IT WORKED!!!!! IT WORKED!!!! 🤣I've been contemplating all week if I should just go and purchase another washer or pay and let the repairman that Maytag is sending out and tell me what's wrong with my washer. Well...low and behold....i don't have to do either because of your video!!🤗 I almost gave up a few times because I didn't know how to get the clips off. I finally found another video that showed me and i realize I took out screws that was unnecessary...but who cares! 🤷🏽♀️Now I call my dad and tell him..his daughter fixed her washer THANKS AGAIN!
Great work. The same thing happened to me and I just changed the assembly. Part was $85. It was kind of a pain because his our washer sits in the laundry room.
Thanks for this. All my jeans, 10pm, the wife goes SOME TIN WONG! Swapped 1st pair, and she can finsih. Orderiong my new flow valve now :) The people below going "fixed my problem" are confused. This is a temporary fix. It's like having a spare on your car and trying to all day drive on it ;)
It looks like the center exit port on the valve is for the mixed hot and cold water and it has a temperature sensor on it. If you swap the valves to have the hot water and cold water come out of the oxy and softener ports then it no longer has a temperature sensor probe Working.
Do you have the same model washer and water valves? The water valves that I had were controlled by electric solenoids that opened and closed the valves when the were energized or de-energized. This solenoid configuration only requires two wires for each solenoid coil. I am not sure what the third wire is unless the switching for the solenoid is done by energizing with reversed polarity to open and close the valves.
The plastic part of the clip is just a cover over the metal pinching connector. Wiggle it side to side and keep pulling it toward the back. It's on there pretty tight.
what is the correct water level on “deep wash” for this washer? It seems no matter what cycle is chosen the clothes are never submerged. Is this correct operation of this washer?
I'm sorry, I don't have this washer anymore. However, I do remember that the Deep wash would at least fill halfway full of water, and the clothes would be completely submerged. The Fill Cycles are on a timer. This means that if the valve does not completely open, like mine did not, the washer will not fill to the desired level. There is no level sensor or level gauge in the washer. It just fills for a certain amount of time regardless of the amount of water that comes out.
@@mchenrykramer thanks! If the fill cycles are on a timer, how does that work in conjunction with the “sensing” function? It is not throwing any codes but does not ever fill to more than 2-3” deep no matter the load size or function selected. I am thinking my valves in the wall may not be allowing for maximum flow at this point. They are a quarter turn valves. May run a cold water test with garden hose here soon to diagnose further
I'm not sure what it does exactly as far as sensing when it is filling, other than maybe when it spins it does register whether or not the load is balanced. If it spins and detects that the load is not balanced, it will adjust mostly by adding more water.
Just,change the valve on my easy fix,whit out all those steps,works perfect, just replace with new part,my was plugged whith calcium,acomulate during years
@@LaureeKeola it is difficult to remove the clips . You will just have to pull hard and wiggle them. It is just a metal electrical clip that is designed to slide on snuggly.
I don't recall there being a locking tab. I think I just had to wiggle the connectors off the plugs. I might have helped them off a little with a screwdriver.
I apologize, I don't remember the code. It was a low flow or low level alarm code because the issue was that the washer drum wasn't filling to the desired level by the time the filling timer expired.
It is possible that the cold water valve is not opening up enough and only the hot water valve is opening, which would make the water hotter than expected.
You just have to wiggle them until they loosen up. They just plug on from the back to the front. You will have to take the wires out of the notches to get them to reach.
I’ve replaced this inlet valve 5 times now! I’m so frustrated! It just keeps blowing over and over. I’ve tried the 65 dollar OEM part as well as aftermarket valves. IM OVER IT
@@ASH-ir3wf we bought a Speed Queen washer and dryer recently after we moved. I am hoping that the quality is as good as what I hear. I had a Whirlpool and then a Maytag set. The Maytag was no better than the Whirlpool. I had to repair something or was getting an error code all the time, it felt like. If I had to buy a cheap washer and dryer set again, I would almost rather go get something used for super cheap. That way I could use the money I saved for repairs over the next few years.
No need to worry. The valve you switched to never gets used unless you frequently use the obscure setting. You are probably not used to hearing the sound of water through an unobstructed valve. The sound was barely noticeable before the change, but was louder when new but also expected.
Rookie question here! After turning off the water, seems I have a lot of pressure built up. Is this normal? Slowly loosening and water is spraying. Just trying to be cautious. Thanks
Probably just not bleeding off the remaining pressure from the line. If the valve is off and not leaking, it should bleed off shortly after breaking the line open.
@@mchenrykramer thanks. 99% of me is sure all I need to do is unscrew the water line from the back of the washer and quickly put into a bucket. 1% of me envisions unscrewing the water line from the back of the washer and all sorts of crazy water issues happening.
I just swapped the connectors. They just plug onto two prongs. I did have to move and loosen the individual wires from where they were routed to make them reach. The wires stay connected to the plugs, but they have to be taken out of the side notch to make them reach.
Nice hack. That inlet valve assembly (W11096267) is $39. Here's a video that shows the knife technique and a "Plan B" for opening it th-cam.com/video/J8N0qpvqtQ8/w-d-xo.html
All this digital stuff is garbage. My basic twist knobs Maytag ran like a champ for 12 years. Bought one of these 2 weeks ago and will not work. Dose not fill fast enough. This is pathetic since when did everything get so complicated.
why rig it?? you go thru all that trouble instead of just replacing it. it is not that expensive to buy a new valve. now you won't be able to use your softner or bleach.
Yeah, we never used the other features, so the corresponding valves and coils were brand new. I mainly did this because it was going to be days before I got the part. Once I got this working, I just stuck with it because it was an old washer anyway.
makes sense and good job figuring it out. I"m an appliance tech so for me it makes more sense just doing the repairs. For a homeowner doing their own repairs this is a good idea. @@mchenrykramer
This is a great temporary fix. It saved me from having to go to the laundromat, something I haven't done in decades. One important thing I noticed though, my detergent dispenser now does not work, so I pour it in a circle in the bottom of the machine before putting in the laundry.
Thank you. That is correct about the dispenser. It's now using the Oxi and Fabric Softener valves instead of the "hot" and "cold" valves. So, the water is flowing into one or both of the trays on sides of the detergent dispenser tray. We were not affected because we have been using the laundry detergent pods or dry Oxi-Clean powder down in the drum for some time now. You might be able to use one of the other trays for your detergent. I can't remember what they are labeled, but it doesn't matter. They are just for hot and cold now.
You didn’t fix anything. The middle right is your cold water detergent valve…. The middle left is your hot water detergent valve. The outside right is your softener cold valve and the outside left is your oxi hot valve. So if you bypass the two middle ones you don’t have any water flowing to the detergent bin. Unfortunately, not only did you not fix the original issue, you inadvertently created a second issue. Just pay the $30 and replace the valve and repair it correctly.
My first load got very well "rinsed"!
Thank you for this fix! Our Maytag dryer died a month ago and then the washing machine decided to throw up the LF sign. I was determined not to buy a new machine and found your helpful tip. If I could buy you a beer I would, I appreciate your video. Thanks!
I bought the part off of Amazon and it worked great. One thing that was incredibly frustrating was getting the control panel open. Those clips were not moving. So we found another video that showed how to slide the top to open and finally (sigh) see those clips to pinch them. My washer works great now! Thanks so much for sharing with others and helping to save our cash!
do you happen to have that other video of how to take the top off? thank you
@@jw6451 This one shows what you're looking for. Basically remove the rear top panel and a couple of more screws. That allows you to put the whole front cover (with lid/panel etc.) forward, where you can lift it and access the clips from underneath with pliers. Good luck! I didn't have any luck with a butter knife and ended up cracking the bottom right corner of the silver faceplate. I will try this other method tomorrow.
th-cam.com/video/IpLF007BXmw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=dliyL25ekTrs1RFp&t=32
Thank you so much for sharing this! I’m the family handyma’am and stay at home mom of 3 boys and I NEED my washing machine to work. The soonest I could get a repair guy in here to look at it was over a week out. This fix saved me $119 service fee plus parts and labor! I also bought a much more inexpensive inlet valve on Amazon ($30) than Maytag would’ve sold me. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Two big thumbs up. Saved me 40$ for a new valve. I always put my soap on top of the clothes ,never use those trays they are mold magnets..
Wanted to pass along my thanks to Justin for his idea to swap the plugs for the cold and hot valves with the fabric softener and oxy valve. Once I swapped them, the 'LF' error I/my wife was getting when doing wash disappeared! This saved me at least from replacing the fill valve assembly and possibly replacing the washer itself. Much appreciated!
I just watched this and did it and it fixed my problem!!! Just want to add that since the wires are crossed now - when the water comes out on cold it will go through the oxi compartment so you have to put your detergent in the oxi tray and if you wash on hot you have to put your detergent in the softener tray - the water flows through and mixes with the detergent .
This is just sad! My grandparents had the same Kenmore set for 25 years and it still works. Trash they make now and charge 5times more...
Worked for me! I ordered a the new part and will replace it entirely, but this allowed me to wash until the new part arrives.
I had some trouble simply taking off the display with the clips, but other than that, this video was excellent.
You’ll also just needs to pour the detergent in the tub itself like the old school days…or just use laundry pods.
I just tried your hack on the washer for a temporary repair until the new part comes in and washer is working, thanks a million for the video 😄
Thank you!! Thank you!! Thank you for sharing this quick hack. I have been dreading how to fix my washer. I am the the one who fixes things in my home and I didn't want to pay hundreds of dollars for a washer a don't even really like but need!
You are a godsend. Cold inlet fill solenoid stopped working when we needed to do a ton of laundry. Ordered a new part but this will get us by till then. Thanks pal!
Great fix! I used this fix temporarily so that I could do wash until my part arrived… just a couple of hints from my specific washer. I had to use a pair of pliers to wiggle the plugs back and forth from the rear to remove. The wires were very tight between the plugs and could not be swapped easily. Only when all the plugs were removed could I stretch the red and blue to the opposite sides on the ends. Thanks again!
Used the same hack on my machine. WORKED. I can use the washer until my Amazon part arrives, sometime in the next two weeks. May just leave the swapped one installed even when my repair parts arrives. That way I have the new one if the hacked one eventually breaks
Thank you for this video! While we waited on the part to arrive, my husband was able to use your hack, and I could still do laundry while waiting. Invaluable tip! Many thanks!
The hack didn’t work for me but I ordered a new part on Amazon for $37 and it was super easy to replace! The appliance repair guy quoted me over $600 to do this! Thanks for the video that helped me get the panel off and show me what was underneath!
what is part name? link?
@@elonbro4733 Maytag MVWB865GW0 #WPL-W11165546
There are several models, just use serial number to cross reference and you’re all set.
THIS WORKS!!! Thank you for posting this video! My washer has been down for two months, until today. Getting it loaded and hauled to a repairman has been my main hold up because I have a car, not a truck. It was giving the exact same low flow error code yours was. I had to use needle nose pliers to pull/wiggle all four of the plugs loose for more slack in the wires and then switched the plugs as you instructed and it freaking worked! *NOTE* I unwrapped the small pieces of black tape that were wrapped around and holding the wires neatly together. That freed up the one white wire that I needed just a little more slack in to reach and connect the plug on the far right side.** Hope that helps someone. Thanks again!
Works like a charm, the wires do get stretched a bit but if you unclip them from the small plastic keeper there is plenty of room. Thanks 👍
You are the Man....THIS WORKS....the plugs are TIGHT but they DO slide off..
Genius hack- Thanks! On my 4th fill valve, wish I saw this earlier!
Awesome . Just swapped the wires and it worked . I’m not a Michanic or an electrician and I did it. Thanks man.
Thanks for the video, it’s a great service to all of us at home! What a smack in the face that these new washers have such a short life cycle before we get to work on them though. Ours is right at a year old.
I swapped them and man, the cold water is flowing great 👍 , thanks a lot!
i can hear the water running faster already. thanks man you save a headache with my wife.
Thanks for posting! Your video was spot on and now the washer works again until we can get the new inlet valve.
Thank You! The Bravos XL and some other commercial HE models are the same layout (Mine is MVW765FW0) and this video was so helpful. We got the LF error as no water was coming in. Upon inspection, the cold cylinder had a slight crack in it and would fail diagnostics. Since we never use the Fabric Softener and Oxy valves, a quick plug switch was perfect. If it fails in the future, we'll likely have to replace the whole inlet valve, but I wanted to say how wonderful it was to find your video after scouring every user manual out there trying to find the solution to our problem.
You just saved me from taking all those bolts out. Thank you!
JUST SAVED ME! I don't have to go to the laundromat to wash my clothes while I wait for a pump assembly to get here! Thanks!!
Smart fix! I had to remove some electrical tape from the wire harness to make the connectors reach.
Thank you for posting this video. I had same problem and this fixed it. Will have plenty time to order part but washer is up and running :) Thanks again!!!
This is EXACTLY what's going on with my washer...I'm about to try this!! Fingers crossed 🤞🏼
I almost twisted my ankle to find my phone so I can come here to tell you..IT WORKED!!!!! IT WORKED!!!! 🤣I've been contemplating all week if I should just go and purchase another washer or pay and let the repairman that Maytag is sending out and tell me what's wrong with my washer. Well...low and behold....i don't have to do either because of your video!!🤗 I almost gave up a few times because I didn't know how to get the clips off. I finally found another video that showed me and i realize I took out screws that was unnecessary...but who cares! 🤷🏽♀️Now I call my dad and tell him..his daughter fixed her washer THANKS AGAIN!
Worked! You da man!
This Was so easy! Took me 15 min and washer is running great. Thank you for posting this, the other guys were defiantly taking the harder road.
Thanks to your video I was able to fix my mom's washer, till the new part gets here.👍
Just used this hack and it works great now. Thank you very much!!
Sir! You’re truly a gentleman and a scholar..
Well done video, descriptions were spot on. Other youtubers could learn a lot from you.
You just saved me $80 thank you!
Great video here. This has saved me twice while I waited on the new part to come in. Thanks for sharing!
this is great. 1 of the best posts- saved $50 on new valve.
Thanks, bailed me out. Same issue and that damn part was replaced 2 years ago!
Man…you just saved the day for me!!! Thank you!! It worked 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Great work. The same thing happened to me and I just changed the assembly. Part was $85. It was kind of a pain because his our washer sits in the laundry room.
Oh my goodness, thank you so very much for posting this. It fixed my problem.
Thanks for this. All my jeans, 10pm, the wife goes SOME TIN WONG! Swapped 1st pair, and she can finsih. Orderiong my new flow valve now :) The people below going "fixed my problem" are confused. This is a temporary fix. It's like having a spare on your car and trying to all day drive on it ;)
I never replaced mine because the washer was getting old and I was trying to avoid spending money on it.
Thanks just did this works great was ready to throw this pile of SHT in the garbage lol
Thanks, the hack will keep my uniforms clean until the part arrives.
Thanks this just worked for a whirlpool cabrio.
Dude!!!! Thank you!!!! Now I just need to order the part!!!
It looks like the center exit port on the valve is for the mixed hot and cold water and it has a temperature sensor on it. If you swap the valves to have the hot water and cold water come out of the oxy and softener ports then it no longer has a temperature sensor probe Working.
Thank you!!! Good hack, until the replacement valve comes in
This was amazing! Thanks!!
Yep, it got me by until I could order a new part. Thank you
Perfect work around. Thank you!
Just replaced mine. Thanks Justin.
Thank you! It Worked 👍🏼
Thank you so much for making this video. This worked for me!
I only have 3 connectors going into my water valves. What then?
Do you have the same model washer and water valves? The water valves that I had were controlled by electric solenoids that opened and closed the valves when the were energized or de-energized. This solenoid configuration only requires two wires for each solenoid coil. I am not sure what the third wire is unless the switching for the solenoid is done by energizing with reversed polarity to open and close the valves.
Cant thank you enough for this info !!
Great video. Saved the day!
Genius hack! Thank you!
Awesome hack!
You will need to load your detergent in the new location to match the correct valve location.
Hey Justin, working on this fix right now. How do the white ‘catches’ come off. Have been pinching and pulling and afraid I will break it
The plastic part of the clip is just a cover over the metal pinching connector. Wiggle it side to side and keep pulling it toward the back. It's on there pretty tight.
Thank you very much. Very helpful
That totally fixed it! Thanks
what is the correct water level on “deep wash” for this washer? It seems no matter what cycle is chosen the clothes are never submerged. Is this correct operation of this washer?
I'm sorry, I don't have this washer anymore. However, I do remember that the Deep wash would at least fill halfway full of water, and the clothes would be completely submerged. The Fill Cycles are on a timer. This means that if the valve does not completely open, like mine did not, the washer will not fill to the desired level. There is no level sensor or level gauge in the washer. It just fills for a certain amount of time regardless of the amount of water that comes out.
@@mchenrykramer thanks! If the fill cycles are on a timer, how does that work in conjunction with the “sensing” function? It is not throwing any codes but does not ever fill to more than 2-3” deep no matter the load size or function selected. I am thinking my valves in the wall may not be allowing for maximum flow at this point. They are a quarter turn valves. May run a cold water test with garden hose here soon to diagnose further
I'm not sure what it does exactly as far as sensing when it is filling, other than maybe when it spins it does register whether or not the load is balanced. If it spins and detects that the load is not balanced, it will adjust mostly by adding more water.
New WP does that no matter what, a hundred setting combos it only allows 25 percent fill
It worked! Thanks man!!
Great info, thanks!
Just,change the valve on my easy fix,whit out all those steps,works perfect, just replace with new part,my was plugged whith calcium,acomulate during years
You can also just swap the coils and then it doesn’t screw up your oxi fabric softener cycle
How dobyou switch the valve I'm having problems getting them off
@@LaureeKeola it is difficult to remove the clips . You will just have to pull hard and wiggle them. It is just a metal electrical clip that is designed to slide on snuggly.
Great video how do disconnect the terminal connector, is their a locking tab ?
I don't recall there being a locking tab. I think I just had to wiggle the connectors off the plugs. I might have helped them off a little with a screwdriver.
What code did you have ?
I apologize, I don't remember the code. It was a low flow or low level alarm code because the issue was that the washer drum wasn't filling to the desired level by the time the filling timer expired.
@mchenrykramer ok.. I'm getting a F0E4 code.. that means the water is too hot.. so was wondering if changing thr water inlet would fix it
It is possible that the cold water valve is not opening up enough and only the hot water valve is opening, which would make the water hotter than expected.
@@mchenrykramer yea.. I'm going to change it and see what happens
Nice but you should've showed us how to change them.
Sorry, I typically make my videos after I have completed my fix. I don't want to post anything that doesn't work.
@@mchenrykramer i do understand that but I prefer to see a step by step. Thanks.
I am going to try this
Did you have a trick for getting the connectors off to swap them? I’m having a hard time getting them off and don’t want to break anything.
You just have to wiggle them until they loosen up. They just plug on from the back to the front. You will have to take the wires out of the notches to get them to reach.
I’ve replaced this inlet valve 5 times now! I’m so frustrated! It just keeps blowing over and over. I’ve tried the 65 dollar OEM part as well as aftermarket valves. IM OVER IT
@@ASH-ir3wf we bought a Speed Queen washer and dryer recently after we moved. I am hoping that the quality is as good as what I hear. I had a Whirlpool and then a Maytag set. The Maytag was no better than the Whirlpool. I had to repair something or was getting an error code all the time, it felt like. If I had to buy a cheap washer and dryer set again, I would almost rather go get something used for super cheap. That way I could use the money I saved for repairs over the next few years.
I have the same one and when I start the washer, there's barely any water coming out. Seems like it's the same problem u had
I hope I can fix it. It's the second one I've gotten from this store that's rebuilding them, the first was a dud and this one is messed up now
The replacement worked. It seems a little loud after replacement though. Did anyone else experience this? Should I be concerned?
No need to worry. The valve you switched to never gets used unless you frequently use the obscure setting. You are probably not used to hearing the sound of water through an unobstructed valve. The sound was barely noticeable before the change, but was louder when new but also expected.
You were great very thorough you saved my marriage 2:00
Saved your marriage?
Rookie question here! After turning off the water, seems I have a lot of pressure built up. Is this normal? Slowly loosening and water is spraying. Just trying to be cautious. Thanks
Probably just not bleeding off the remaining pressure from the line. If the valve is off and not leaking, it should bleed off shortly after breaking the line open.
@@mchenrykramer thanks. 99% of me is sure all I need to do is unscrew the water line from the back of the washer and quickly put into a bucket. 1% of me envisions unscrewing the water line from the back of the washer and all sorts of crazy water issues happening.
I typically keep some old towels handy, but I have found that using a decent trash bag is useful in tight spaces where it's hard to get a bucket into.
Hey, having this same issue. Did you swap the connectors or the actual wires? Don’t want to break the connectors accidentally.
I just swapped the connectors. They just plug onto two prongs. I did have to move and loosen the individual wires from where they were routed to make them reach. The wires stay connected to the plugs, but they have to be taken out of the side notch to make them reach.
Can see cracks on solnoids
Mine shows LF in the final step to spin(22 minutes remaining)
Dangerous when dissembling the machine without pulling out the power plug!!!!
I agree. I unplugged it and disassembled it and plugged it back in for the video.
These washers suck so bad
Thank you but note the water won’t hit the proper soap container.
I agree. We typically just put our detergent down on the clothes.
@@mchenrykramer 🙏🏽 Thank you for your time, energy and the vid. Very informative.
Nice hack. That inlet valve assembly (W11096267) is $39. Here's a video that shows the knife technique and a "Plan B" for opening it th-cam.com/video/J8N0qpvqtQ8/w-d-xo.html
Washer
New Machines never fill enough … makes me furious
All this digital stuff is garbage. My basic twist knobs Maytag ran like a champ for 12 years. Bought one of these 2 weeks ago and will not work. Dose not fill fast enough. This is pathetic since when did everything get so complicated.
why rig it?? you go thru all that trouble instead of just replacing it. it is not that expensive to buy a new valve. now you won't be able to use your softner or bleach.
Yeah, we never used the other features, so the corresponding valves and coils were brand new. I mainly did this because it was going to be days before I got the part. Once I got this working, I just stuck with it because it was an old washer anyway.
makes sense and good job figuring it out. I"m an appliance tech so for me it makes more sense just doing the repairs. For a homeowner doing their own repairs this is a good idea. @@mchenrykramer