Enclosing the Prusa XL - SUMO!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- I enclosed my Prusa XL thanks to 3D Sourcerer! Filament drying sponsored by the SUNLU S4 Filament Dryer ▶ bit.ly/3PzONWL
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3D Sourcer SUMO Enclosure for the Prusa XL
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Omg, I watched every episode of Joseph Willis designing and building this, it's so good to see Joel putting it on his xl!
Look forward to seeing your next projects with the enclosure 🤩
You and me both!
I love 3D Sourcerer. I have some acrylic panels from him for my Lack (v2) enclosure with a Sunlu S4 dryer mounted on top of it 😁
As always… great informative video Joel.. thank you.. and thanks for keeping the “oops I printed the wrong pc for the antenna” in the video. I know how many times I’ve “oops” when printing things… its good to see you do as well..
Hammer All The Things!
I have been using the Sumo enclosure for a couple weeks now. I found that the PETG idler arms on the filament drive gear need to be replaced with ASA. The original PETG ones couldn’t stand the heat that builds up in the enclosure. I am presently upgrading some of the other core xy components to ASA. Even though I am having to do some upgrades I still love the printer and the enclosure!
I got mine put together last week, amazing instructions! My biggest complaint is their use of acrylic with no options for polycarbonate. So sooner or later cracks will form and it will just deteriorate from there. In some parts they did a good job at crack mitigation (thankfully the doors were a good example of that since that'll have the highest chance of cracks forming.
Just print plastic washers, and you should be fine. That's what I did with mine. I put them under every screw head that was in direct contact with the plexiglass.
Polycarbonate will crack too if you overtighten the screws.
Rubber, nylon or plastic washers are a requirement if you're fastening anything to acrylic, policarbonate or glass, especially if it's a thin sheet. For thick acrylic, you don't need it.
I finished mine and posted a make on Printables January 15, 2024. It is not perfect, but I would rate it at 98%. I had some similar problems and ended up reprinting the parts in ABS on the Prusa XL with the SUMO enclosure with the original parts. I was able to get the internal temperature to hold at 100 degrees F and had only minimal warping on the large ABS prints. It does what it is designed to do and the kit has extra hardware for us that drop parts that go into hiding, much appreciated. Since Prusa has no time line for their enclosure this is the best option on the market and a fair price
You truly do print all the things. Very, very cool!!
Thank you!
Love it good job!
Thank you!
I've printed PETG parts and then taken pliers and broken them apart. And they've come apart not along the layer lines, but as a homogeneous structure. In my experience, PETG is not brittle at all. You just gotta print it really hot so it comes out shiny and really bonds well to the previous layer. I typically print at 255-260° or so.
I still don't know why prusa didn't make it enclosed in the first place. lol
Because it's already $4500! I shudder to think what the cost would have been at Prusa rates for fully enclosed.
For this price not providing a enclosure is insane. A couple PC panels and that’s it. If they would have design the printer to be enclosed in the first place… The price would maybe around 100$ for the PC if they bought it in bigger batches.
@@Todestelzer right!
It wasn't a very subtile 3D printer already, but now it can't be overlooked :) Nice touch, the blue tape by the way
Love that blue tape!
I have this enclosure and really like it. I also printed mine from PETG and really struggled.
I ended up redesigning the parts with even thickness wall sections everywhere and no infill to help with warping and the shrinkage of PETG. I also eliminated the hex pins and made the sections bolt together.
You can see my review and build on the Sumo Enclosure on Printables.
what's your link on printables?
@@crashkg Brian_506099.
Right now I just have my build on the official Sumo enclosure. If there's enough interest I'm look into uploading the files.
@@crashkgTH-cam keeps deleting my comment for some reason. Just search out the sumo enclosure on Printables and you'll see my review and build. If there's enough interest I'll consider uploading.
You should add some kind of signature and date of assembly on that tape! And the top hat is huge!
I have their Delack enclosure for my bed slinger and it works really well.
Whoa,..that enclosure is huge
I recently purchased an S4. It came out of the box with an error 3. Sunlu told me to open the bottom and check the wiring and such, but I couldn’t find any issues. Had to do an exchange through Amazon; currently waiting on the replacement. I would try a different dryer based on my initial experience, but I really want the 4 spool size, and I haven’t found another one that suits my needs within a reasonable price.
Just a wild idea. Not for temperature control, but for humidity control. A super cheap way, or at least way easier to do.
Get a liquid-based treatment that will make treated surfaces super hydrophilic water loving. A vacuum chamber is probably overkill, but to work the liquid treatment into the material even better, use a vacuum chamber. But take a blanket, sheet, whatever, and treat it with that chemical.
If your filament drying machine has a port where the moist air comes out of, face that away from your 3D printer but have them beside each other.
Throw the super hydrophilic treated blanket or sheet over top of both but snug the blanket up against the dryer so the moist air exhaust port is outside of the enclosed area that the sheet is creating.
And have your Moisture detector inside of the sheet with a remote camera on it or just let it sit idle for a while and then start your print.
What are your thoughts on this?
I have also a DIY encloser made 10:06 for the warping on the XL 5 heads.But it's a great workhorse printer.
That's a cool looking enclosure. I want something like this for my laser! Right now I have a 'highly customized' cardboard box as an enclosure- it works surprisingly well, to the point that I've put off building a permanent one so that I can continue easily customizing the box until I'm 100% happy with it, then I'll simply build an identical wooden version. It would be nice to have something that looks a little nicer like this though: function first though, form second!
That thing is wild
Love this enclosure, From my experience I've found that CA/super glue will fix PETG breaks and cracks.
I'm really curious about how fumes/etc will work with how open the top-rear of the printer is. Even what we've seen so far of Prusa's upcoming official enclosure looks like it has that same open back (plus even less seal around the front due to the accordion curtain), which suggests that a simple recirculating filter like Prusa's or the Nevermore might not be good enough.
5:32 I appreciated the Princess Bride reference, Joel, even if it was unintentional. 🙂
The 80's style montage with bad VCR tracking was awesome. Really like the fact you leave all the mistakes in because it is real life man! Give Elegoo Rapid PETG a try, I have been having great results with it, and it is cheap! For the money they charge for the XL, it should have been enclosed from the factory, just saying.
What a big and colorful monster it is... but impressive build at the end.
Nice! (i was in the live of the huge printer)
Once the enclosure is on, how much of a PITA is it to work on the printer? i.e. Getting to the extruders or anything now covered by the enclosure?
It’s pretty easy once the top is taken off :)
This is asome 🎉and it looks amazing! Good work and: a bit of imperfection is every time good for memory’s!
Ha! Only 54% RH, I live in a sub tropical city in Australia, 54 is low, so filament dryers, vacuum bags and colour changing dessicant are essential given my default is PETG.
I would print enclosures with ASA/ABS when you will be printing high temp filaments. Looks great. Can’t afford the printer but looks good
110% agree with that last bit.
PETG door handles with TPU grips?
Sounds like your studio needs an industrial dehumidifier. Side benefit, it will cool down the room in summer.
well, obviously, the first thing to print with the enclosure is to reprint the enclosure in ASA :)
I was thinking that same thing. Man, that just raises the effective price of the enclosure even more though, especially for those of us who only have the XL and no other printers. I wonder if doing a ghetto enclosure with a big-ass cardboard box would be good enough to just go straight to ASA printing.
@@falxonPSN yes, it would
I reprinted mine in ABS
ProtoPastas warehouse is like 15 minutes from me. Maybe it's time I order some filament from them!
Yes!
Does it affect loudness too?
Can you share what is name of your humidity/co2 sensor?
The enclosure seems to be of good quality. Its one thing to complain about the prusa but the enclosure has one job and its doing it
How much does it increase the footprint of the machine?
It only adds some height. It doesn't increase the width or length since everything attaches directly to the frame.
What's the results in temperature? I need a enclosure that can go to 80C plus to avoid warping m. M
I get mine up to 100 F by only using the bed heater. I would be careful going to 80C with some of the printed parts on the printer.
54% humidity "relatively high"
*glances nervously at the local coastal climate*
"I convinced it a little too hard" I love that, and I'm completely stealing that for the next time I accidentally hammer something to 💀.
YES DO IT
Be sure to reprint the idler parts. The PETG ones that come with the printer will fail after a time. I reprinted mine in Prusament PC.
Thanks for the tip!
It’s HUGE!!!!
"That's what she said."
Isn't it 54% relative humidity not degrees?
Love the idea to put an enclosure on the XL, but don’t love the options yet. So bulky on an already bulky machine. Also, anyone with an XL use a RepBox? Considering using that and mounting it above the machine for ease of use. I already have a 2 roll dryer and getting another one or a sunlu s4, seems wasteful in my situation and I’d still only be at 4 of the heads without adding a separate single dry on top of that too. Lastly, anyone know why the cables and tubes are so long on these machines. It seems like nearly 1/3 can go away or more, and then add in quick disconnects if you need to work on the head.
The 70s TV effect may actually be the best part of the video outside of Joel himself.
5:31 Over here we have a saying: "Kui jõudu on, siis mõistust pole vaja" (Sila est', uma ne nado - if you know slavic) which translates - "The strong don't need to be smart" :D
I'm french and it once was the biggest printing company and my first printer were from them back in 2014 but now they have clearly fallen very low
as someone who lives in a swamp (Houston), we dream of 50% humidity
Would have been good to see print quality once the prusa was in the enclosure.
I guess this is the “part 1 unboxing” or “assembly” vid.
I just ordered an XL and i dont care about the enclosure because i have a massive enclosed printer shelf thats a meter tall, and its perfect for multi color peinting because of a big filament shelf/drier combo
Due to the wires/ptfe tube i can not fit the xl into my enclosure in traditional orientation. The outside dimensions are similar to a voron 350 but the extra space it needs is ridiculous
PETG is a terrible choice for an enclosure if you want to put any heat into it at all. You only get a few degrees more before it starts warping than you would PLA, still well under the level an enclosure should be at for most of the filaments you mentioned. Stick to ASA, ABS, etc unless you're enclosing a RatRig (also made of a lot of PETG) where your printer would be melting anyway if you tried to print at the temperatures required for better filaments.
My enclosure would be taped and with the drilled hole for-EVER! :D
Enclosures should be printed in ASA/ABS for the rigidity and temperature tolerance.
PETG will get too soft if it gets hot in the enclosure, which is what you should want for good print results.
Except you can’t print the enclosure out of ABS/ASA unless you already have an enclosure.
@@prestonhal janky cartboard enclosure for the win XD
I reprinted mine in ABS and it is working great
@@prestonhal You can, just need to enclose it a bit and prevent drafts. Shove a box over it. A big box.
Prusa XL is kind of impractical really for the cost. cost overall of prusa is higher compared to similar of it's kind. if the XL was only 2 head, would be better and save on cost if the others were addons if anyone needs it
I wonder if you could have used PLA+ for the enclosure.
Ooh I don’t know maybe?
I'm not a fan of that look. Guess i'll just order some precut aluminium extrusions, precut acrylic sheets and some simple metal hardware and screws to make my own enclosure. Can't be that hard to make a bigger cube that goes around a cube, right? Might make the sidepanels big enough to enclose the filament as well, and just use magnets, so it's quick and easy to remove panels to change spools or do maintenance on the printer.
an enclosure with printed parts so it can print PETG/PLA enclosed! nice! loljk. When do the 3d printed PLA hot ends come out from Prusa? (also jk).
That contraption looks ridiculous.
I would have done ABS but PETG should work.
or get a dehumidifier?
Rig the algorithm!
This seems more like building a house around your printer than an enclosure. It would make more sense to just enclose the build volume to be able to increase temps than try to envelope the whole unit IMHO. Not trying to neg just being honest when it comes to most peoples realistic real estate commodities.
Actually the material then IS hydroscopic, as it absorbs moisture, no matter from where. Same as standard brake fluid etc.
Best wishes
Hygroscopic means to absorb, hydroscopic does not mean that.
@@3DPrintingNerd Hello!
That is incorrect.
Hydroscopic is, when a material actively attracts and absorbs moisture.
This can also be witnessed with DOT 4 etc. brake fluids, because of which they need frequent replacement (lowered boiling point).
I’m coincidentally an engineer.
Best wishes nonetheless!
P.S.: Maybe you were thinking about hydroscopic & hydrophobic.
@@asc23channel Hydroscopic is not an actual word. Hydroscope is, though. I trust that even though you want to be correct here, you will research this and delete your post.
@@justinl.3587 Indeed, my bad due to language mess up. You (& he) are correct.
And no…why should I delete something I stated, even if I made a linguistic mistake?!
I’ll simply own it.
Best wishes
Are they making an enclosure like this for the giant orange printer? LOL I think at that point just close the door in the room it's in and call it an enclosure.
The OrangeStorm Giga? Dear gods, that would be terrifying. I think a not-so-young kid can fit entirely within that printer as-is.
Fun fact - this aranet 4 sensor is made by latvian company
I don't get why you have a moisture problem, as I have about 15% more moisture than you have when I compare the grams of H2O per KG of air at that moisture level. and I don't have any problem at all with moisture, I don't store filament in bags and don't use dryers 🤷♂
PETG will fail over time when used on an enclosure. Typically within 1-2 years, but some have reported less than a year.. This is why RatRig no longer supports the use of PETG for their enclosures. Only ABS & ASA is able to hold up over time.
Oh dang! Good to know. I can use this enclosure to print an ABS enclosure:)
@@3DPrintingNerd Bootstrapping!
Butt how did it work? 👀
Children in the comments arguing about Prusa on both sides are hilarious
prusa powder🎉🎉🎉🎉
Fisher-Price
Blippi colors! LMFAO
I love PLA so much. I would had printed it in PLA Galaxy Black and PLA Prusa Orange. I don't like to print PETG to much. But if I need the properties I do.
Humidity is measured in per centage not degrees. You had 54 per cent humidity
Yep, I said it wrong. Brain fart. That’s why text on screen was better :)
@@3DPrintingNerd 🙂
acrylic has a glass transision temp is around 100c, my bet is that the top plate will be the first to go
It's a bit ironic when your $5,000 printer has to rely on a bodge enclosure from a third party. Makes a really good case for the whole "I want a product and not a project" argument against the XL. I'll still go for the whole "slower and more wasteful" system consisted of a Bambu Labs P1C or X1C with 4 AMS modules, which will still be cheaper than the 5 head XL and doesn't require a $300 enclosure you have to build yourself later. Plus you have 16 colors or materials available.
honestly don't get the point of an XL, it costs more than a voron tapchanger, takes so long to be shipped that you could build a voron in the time and have time to spare, costs as much as 2 x1cs, performs worse than both, and then after it arrives, you have to finish the design for prusa?
But you still can't print many materials I'd say, a lot of colors for sure, but the XL is mainly meant for more than that. They do need the enclosure and they needed it to be included, I agree there.
@@VincentGroenewoldwhich makes you think how rushed or not well designed this printer is. The appeal or advantage of the XL vs other multi material systems is that it can "truly" print different materials, BUT it would need to be enclosed to successfully do that so that kind of cancels that advantage. $5000 for a printer should get you everything you need, No mods needed, No tinkering, EVERYTHING you would need and the XL is not there, not even close.
@@VincentGroenewold The primary issue here, apart from the dozens of issues that were included for free with most XLs when they shipped is the price. If you're charging 5 grand for a printer, you better ship a product and not project, especially when you have competing products which do more or less the same thing in the market already and they work as advertised out of the box like....The Bambu Labs P1C and X1C printers. For people that want a project, they can build a Voron and add the tap changer system, which can use up to 6 heads and still costs less than a XL despite being a complete custom solution.
Is it or Prusa have been half-assing their products, why would they sell this printer without an enclosure
looks oke but 300 dollars for some cheap 3mm acrylic cheap hydromiter and some screws and nuts thats just wrong i get that a lot of time when it to designing it and documenting but 300 is way of base you can build a lot better for that money considering its a 4000 dollar printer
The panels are cut and drilled perfectly, the hardware is sourced and extras supplied, and the work that went into the design and kit assembly. I think the kit was fairly priced - curious to see what Prusa's version will cost.
Such a shame that the printer is this expensive and doesn’t even have a enclosure. Going back to creality upgrades for a multi thousand dollar machine 😂😂
Prusa didnt release an enclosure originally with the MK series either, was added later.
@@deeply999 I know but for this price it should be included or the printer should be cheaper. In my eyes the PrusaXL is way to overpriced for what it offers.
Yep and 300$ for some stl files and 6 pieces of transparent plastic? Seems a little to expensive in my opinion
@@deeply999Prusa also didn't sell their i3 printers for 2-5 grand either. Looking at the XL design, it's obvious the printer was designed to have an enclosure, but fear of Bambu Labs made Prusa ship incomplete products.
@@deeply999you're not helping
I love 3d printing and all, but I think the industry needs a reality check.
To check what?
@@DonsArtnGames That if they think doing the same thing over and over and charging more money for something that has been basic for the last 10 years, it's no wonder they fail. Don't get me wrong, I love the opportunity to tinker and improve upon what I have on my own. It just seems a lot of 3d print companies turn out products for a get-rich-quick-scheme and I'm not for it.
They just got it, it's called Bambu Lab.
yeah i think long term prusa will do a lulzbot and focus on grifting industry buyers, they clearly cant compete anymore
@@RADkate Ultimaker has been doing that Schtick too. $7000 for an S5 and $8000 for an S7
So for a $4,000 machine, THIS is the the enclosure? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Is that what that printer costs?
@@adrianharrison5208 the 5 tool head machine shipped is around that price, yes.
This is not by Prusa
@@krollmond7544 Thank you captain obvious. What is also obvious is for this price point, this should be enclosed from Prusa.
@@justinl.3587 you literally acted like this was sold by Prusa you retard, and yes I agree the XL should come with an enclosure.
Holy Heck!!!! 3 Kg's of filament for that? Bad enough the printer cost silly money ( about $3500 over priced for a printer really even this type )
But the maker of the encloser is a real clever soul. He manged to sell a product for almost $300
But then the user has to spend even more tons of money on 3 Kg's of filament then print it all using tons of time and electric.
That encloser designer is rolling in money for something where the user spends tons of extra money on top of the brought encloser kit on to even use it?
Madness. So really this encloser kit will cost really about $400 by the time you buy the good quality 3 Kg of filament ( not cheap ) then the electricity then the time to build it.
Not really value then for money when you could enclose the printer for far less money than spending on 3 Kg extra of filament plus all the energy and time.
This looks 100% goofy.
No way i was like 1000 lol
All the mistakes, questionable workarounds, and still continues publishing video. You're killing me Smalls.
OMG!!
That monster look like a plastic toy in a chinese circus.
Have you even looked at it...?? All enclosures for the XL is a little bulky ang ugly, but that one absolutely takes the lead!
This looks so janky. Glad I got a X1 instead.
So many ads in one video. Nice
How can I make this printer more ugly? 😂
your voice sounded weird on this episode like it was AI sampled or something.
The first minute or so we had an sdcard failure so had to use the backup audio from the camera set through some noise reduction.
Wow, sacrificing your kid's baseball game to assemble that abomination. That's dedication lol.
Thank god I cancelled my preorder
PETG actually isn't brittle. It has Glycol in it to make flexible. That's why water bottles are made out of them. If yours is brittle than you have bad filament or false print settings. :)
Thank you for the video but honestly, all these parts, is too much plastic...
start of video sound like ai generated voice?
Had an sdcsard failure so had to use on camera audio fed through AI noise suppression
@@3DPrintingNerd Yea it looked to synced to be AI gen.
I think Prusa is in trouble.
Unfortunately yes… there going the way of blackberry
They are falling further and further behind.
@@waltergrootenboer6735 is there any printer out there in a “desktop” category which can match capabilities or quality of XL?
XL is actually something like MacBook Pro of 3D printing.
@@ScytheNoireIt's one of their best selling years, reality check?
@@rudolfkrcmarnot even the XL can match its own capabilities. You can print multiple materials, as long as they are different colors of PLA and a little bit of TPU for anything other than that you would need to make this horrendous enclosure. All of that for just over $4000, it's a steal!
Doesn't the carbon x1 leave this overpriced printer for dead!