Dave, just bought a brand new Fluke 87V the other day, and I was surprised it didn't come with a calibration certificate. I called the manufacturer and they confirmed it does not ship out with a proper cal certificate. I would have to ship it back to the factory and pay them to calibrate it and certify the results. What the heck? All other major DMM suppliers automatically include a cal certificate. Why shouldn't Fluke? It's a $400 plus meter, making it there top of the line meters. It's more of just piece of mind, I'm sure it's in spec, but hey, maybe my expectations are high.
A note to future buyers of a Fluke 87-V as of 2017: It's not made in USA anymore (probably China but it doesn't say on it where it is made anymore), and it doesn't carry a lifetime warranty anymore either (10 years now), and the price has gone up (with inflation from 2009). Still a great multimeter, but ships with cheap stiff vinyl Fluke TL75 leads and small probes and no printed manual.
I bought one, manufactured Nov 2017, box and sticker on the box say made in US. I'm not impressed with it. The holster is ugly and shows a lot of markings of the new cheaper manufacturing process (the smooth surface that fluke meters had is now gone), the current measurement reads 2 mA in Amp-mode by default (0,02 in mA mode) and the tilting bale on the back is so badly connected in the rubber holster that it pops out, rubs on the meter which makes it that it isn't easy to flip out any-more.Would not recommend buying. My 7 year old second hand fluke 115 (China) is better build in terms of the tilting bale, the smooth finish on the rubber holster and an AMP current measurement that shows 0,000 when nothing connected, as it should. and that's an electrician's meter, not meant for electronics. The Fluke 87V is a joke and a bad one at that!
@@MrDubje Hey strange how mine had markings too, it is because of shipping I'd assume however they still are made in the US don't listen to anyone who says otherwise, I've spoke to fluke and asked many questions on the 87v and they also have mentioned that the rubber rubs off and leaves black marks which it does from heat, use baby wipes made mine look brand new.
Fluke makes and sells 87V's in multiple markets. The 87V purchased in the American market from authorized dealers are still made in USA and still carry a lifetime warranty. You can refer to their specs on the website (www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-87v) which states "Designed and built in the U.S." & "Comes with a lifetime warranty." Chinese market Flukes are made in China and do not carry the lifetime warranty. I know the 1xx series are made in China, but I'm pretty sure there are 87V's made there as well based on reports of cheap 87V's purchased on eBay and the like and that do not carry the made in USA verbiage.
I have an original first generation Fluke 87 with 4,000 counts, ±(0.1% + 1) basic DC accuracy, and green backlight which I bought from Joseph Electronics in Niles, Illinois just over 30 years ago. At one point, the display started to fade (i.e. segments dropping out). I understand this was a big problem with this series early on. Even my dad's Fluke 8060A (the predecessor to the model 87) suffered from the same problem. Apparently this was due to some degradation in the elastomer strips used in that time. Fluke has since offered a display upgrade kit (DR80) with better elastomer strips as well as a white backlight. I upgraded mine and now the display is perfect, not one segment out. However, I opted to keep the original green backlight because I like it better. The white backlight is uneven with most of the light coming from the left-hand side of the display.
Just got my Fluke 87 V today from UPS. I had bought a Fluke 77 back in 1989 for $320 at that time and bought a Fluke 12 in 1993 so I bought this for its true RMS and other capabilities. I like how Fluke made a separate battery hatch on this 87 series because I found the plastic posts that the self tapping screws on the rear of the Fluke 77 screwed into weakened and broke over time even when I was careful taking the back off to change the battery.
Im doing repairs and I got this meter and went back to Fluke 12 :))) The only reason is when measuring diodes and if there is a voltage in the circuit Fluke 12 will discharge it, I believe it has 2K resistor that is in parallel connection... It would be nice if Dave explanes this in details and tell us if there is any other Fluke meter that does the same.
Bought a second hand fluke 89(series 5) for 100 euros and its like brand new. All thanks to my first view of this video. However it did'nt come with a manual, hence my second viewing lol! Thanks Dave.
I would've recommended like 17B or something, and use the spare money for parts, solder equipment and power supply. Or buy it second hand. Heck, you could probably even get oscilloscope alongside a cheaper multimeter. Also, hobbies may come and go, so investing would be recommended to do in small steps. They're probably more inexpensive because of the larger quantieties they're able to sell compared to individual dealers, I guess.
thank you for your site and help. I have a problem with my 87V, It stopped working right on ohms and diode mode. I have fixed other Fluke 87 and 87V meters by replacing the input protection components. This one however has a different problem. Any ideas?
Are you still having a problem with your meter going through batteries? If so, please drop me a note. I'd like to see if I can help you. Kind Regards, Perry
Have you ever disassembled ANY White Westinghouse product? They seem to SUCK. I took apart a clock that would not keep time, and it was obviously not worth the effort.
I'm just learning about electronics but I have decied to get the Fluke 87V. I noticed that the price is a lot less on Amazon.com than on other web sites. Why would the multimeter be so relatively inexpensive on Amazon.com?
Is it safe to place a rechargeable 9V battery in the Fluke 87V? Id like to not waste resources if possible but I feel that rechargable 9V that use lithium IONs inside usually have voltage booster that can add noise to the power supply and disrupt the circuitry.
You can use 8.4V NiMh / or check that li-ion has 2 elements in series - no booster circuit. I'd like a DVM powered with lithium from factory or at least AA /AAA size cells. 6F22 is old and not convenient
It has its banana-jacks split in half, contrary to the fluke 289 that uses an optical system (ir beam passing through the jacks).I ran a current of 10 Amps through the meter, and the Amp jacks got hot, which is not surprising considering only half of the jack connects to your plug. At least, that's what I think. Don't think the sense contact is able to carry current.
"buying a fluke 87v Max" most likely you will get Fluke "Made in China" 87-V Max and not "Made in USA"...I hope you that. And yeah, obviously if that's not your concern, that's different altogether. But, a small input from me Made in China has a bit accuracy issue say .001 or .01 digit. anyway if you get "Made in USA", please share the store you will get from
Moisture (rain) and dirt in the lead holes cause this. Desolder and replace plug jack for about $25 is (was) the fix from Ebay. If you're lucky you might be able to clean out the old one good enough to clear the error. There is a built in microswitch that detects lead placement for amps/volts that gets contaminated.
Dave, nice as always. Very good input from you and Fluke. Whoever read this post of mine, I am not a fan of "Made in China" Fluke and want to grab one "Made in USA" Fluke. So, where can I buy one brand NEW Fluke "Made in USA" 87-V? Money is not a constraint for this DMM. I got one USA distributor stating that until "soe rare case for selling to USA government on a large project" Fluke does not hand them their USA made series. I am leaving no stone unturned to get one....Anyone? Please help!
So, anyone know what's going on with continuity mode delay? I have a cheap meter I've had for who knows how long that I got from who knows where, and as far as I can tell, the continuity beep is analog. There's no delay, and I can make it screech with intermittent connections. IMO, that's a good thing. Why is it considered normal for "better" meters to have some kind of latching digital response that can take on the order of 10-100ms to respond?
Because a good latching continuity can capture transients that you might not hear. A Fluke 87 is specced as having a 1ms continuity. So it'll catch that 1ms transient short (which you might have trouble hearing in a noisy environment) and turns it into a half-second loud beep.
I know this is an old blog post but I still need to make this comment! Please don't wave things around that you hold up in front of the camera, it's bloody annoying. I suggest you use a wide angle shot and leave the article stationary on the bench, with close up's edited in if required. Also, when you are poking around inside things, don't scrape around with a hard tool like screwdrivers, use a plastic pointer or something like.
This is one of his very early videos--he's learned a lot about how to produce them since then. If you watch his newer videos, you'll see a big difference. He has better video equipment, better mics and better lighting. He also keeps the products stationary (as you suggest) and uses a plastic stylus to point out details. So basically everything you commented on (3 months ago) has been fixed for quite a while.
i have a fluke 87 i bought it 10 years ago. i emailed fluke for a new battery cover no customer no assistance. customer service gone there email sated you find the part number ok they never sent me the manual. they sent me a link to a sight to find the manual. i could not find the manual. the email from fluke stated if you can not find the part number we can"t help. lazy lazy. i will never buy a new fluke ever again
Extremely poor teardown, IMO. Why do all other products get torn apart, while Fluke gets a pass? I suspect I know why. Fluke had a BIG problem years ago with someone ripping off their technology -- I think it was their RMS circuit. I think someone at Fluke said Uh-Uh on a normal teardown of their meter. I gave this segment a Thumbs Down. Least you could have done was state why the teardown wasn't done.
Wow, going back to the older videos after watching the recent ones shows how much camera tech has come on in 7 years.
TBH, Dave's camera was wasn't exactly state of the art in 2009. This channel was doing 720p in 2008: th-cam.com/users/hardwareinfovideo
you dont say... try to rewatch it today compared to EEVblog today
Dave, just bought a brand new Fluke 87V the other day, and I was surprised it didn't come with a calibration certificate. I called the manufacturer and they confirmed it does not ship out with a proper cal certificate. I would have to ship it back to the factory and pay them to calibrate it and certify the results. What the heck? All other major DMM suppliers automatically include a cal certificate. Why shouldn't Fluke? It's a $400 plus meter, making it there top of the line meters. It's more of just piece of mind, I'm sure it's in spec, but hey, maybe my expectations are high.
A note to future buyers of a Fluke 87-V as of 2017: It's not made in USA anymore (probably China but it doesn't say on it where it is made anymore), and it doesn't carry a lifetime warranty anymore either (10 years now), and the price has gone up (with inflation from 2009). Still a great multimeter, but ships with cheap stiff vinyl Fluke TL75 leads and small probes and no printed manual.
I bought one, manufactured Nov 2017, box and sticker on the box say made in US.
I'm not impressed with it.
The holster is ugly and shows a lot of markings of the new cheaper manufacturing process (the smooth surface that fluke meters had is now gone), the current measurement reads 2 mA in Amp-mode by default (0,02 in mA mode) and the tilting bale on the back is so badly connected in the rubber holster that it pops out, rubs on the meter which makes it that it isn't easy to flip out any-more.Would not recommend buying. My 7 year old second hand fluke 115 (China) is better build in terms of the tilting bale, the smooth finish on the rubber holster and an AMP current measurement that shows 0,000 when nothing connected, as it should. and that's an electrician's meter, not meant for electronics. The Fluke 87V is a joke and a bad one at that!
@@MrDubje Hey strange how mine had markings too, it is because of shipping I'd assume however they still are made in the US don't listen to anyone who says otherwise, I've spoke to fluke and asked many questions on the 87v and they also have mentioned that the rubber rubs off and leaves black marks which it does from heat, use baby wipes made mine look brand new.
Fluke makes and sells 87V's in multiple markets. The 87V purchased in the American market from authorized dealers are still made in USA and still carry a lifetime warranty. You can refer to their specs on the website (www.fluke.com/en-us/product/electrical-testing/digital-multimeters/fluke-87v) which states "Designed and built in the U.S." & "Comes with a lifetime warranty." Chinese market Flukes are made in China and do not carry the lifetime warranty. I know the 1xx series are made in China, but I'm pretty sure there are 87V's made there as well based on reports of cheap 87V's purchased on eBay and the like and that do not carry the made in USA verbiage.
On the Fluke site for the 87V
Additional measurement features
The Fluke 87V is designed and built in the U.S. and comes with a lifetime warranty.
Fluke still manufacttures their high ens multimeters and other quality devices in the US. Some of their cheaper items are made elsewhere however
I have an original first generation Fluke 87 with 4,000 counts, ±(0.1% + 1) basic DC accuracy, and green backlight which I bought from Joseph Electronics in Niles, Illinois just over 30 years ago. At one point, the display started to fade (i.e. segments dropping out). I understand this was a big problem with this series early on. Even my dad's Fluke 8060A (the predecessor to the model 87) suffered from the same problem. Apparently this was due to some degradation in the elastomer strips used in that time. Fluke has since offered a display upgrade kit (DR80) with better elastomer strips as well as a white backlight. I upgraded mine and now the display is perfect, not one segment out. However, I opted to keep the original green backlight because I like it better. The white backlight is uneven with most of the light coming from the left-hand side of the display.
Just got my Fluke 87 V today from UPS. I had bought a Fluke 77 back in 1989 for $320 at that time and bought a Fluke 12 in 1993 so I bought this for its true RMS and other capabilities. I like how Fluke made a separate battery hatch on this 87 series because I found the plastic posts that the self tapping screws on the rear of the Fluke 77 screwed into weakened and broke over time even when I was careful taking the back off to change the battery.
Im doing repairs and I got this meter and went back to Fluke 12 :)))
The only reason is when measuring diodes and if there is a voltage in the circuit Fluke 12 will discharge it, I believe it has 2K resistor that is in parallel connection...
It would be nice if Dave explanes this in details and tell us if there is any other Fluke meter that does the same.
Good review, I still have my 87 from 13 years ago. Still going strong.
Mine is class A in 2020!
Bought a second hand fluke 89(series 5) for 100 euros and its like brand new. All thanks to my first view of this video. However it did'nt come with a manual, hence my second viewing lol! Thanks Dave.
I would've recommended like 17B or something, and use the spare money for parts, solder equipment and power supply. Or buy it second hand.
Heck, you could probably even get oscilloscope alongside a cheaper multimeter.
Also, hobbies may come and go, so investing would be recommended to do in small steps.
They're probably more inexpensive because of the larger quantieties they're able to sell compared to individual dealers, I guess.
thank you for your site and help. I have a problem with my 87V, It stopped working right on ohms and diode mode. I have fixed other Fluke 87 and 87V meters by replacing the input protection components. This one however has a different problem. Any ideas?
My original 87, still kicks ass in 2020!
Mine too, lol.....
Are you still having a problem with your meter going through batteries? If so, please drop me a note. I'd like to see if I can help you.
Kind Regards,
Perry
Have you ever disassembled ANY White Westinghouse product? They seem to SUCK. I took apart a clock that would not keep time, and it was obviously not worth the effort.
The continuity mode on mine takes a lot longer to respond.
I'm just learning about electronics but I have decied to get the Fluke 87V. I noticed that the price is a lot less on Amazon.com than on other web sites. Why would the multimeter be so relatively inexpensive on Amazon.com?
maybe because it is in US where they have no VAT tax?
Maybe because it's counterfeit?
What do you think about the fluke 87 meter.... I have one, honest opinion....
lol you have a Fluke 77 as well. I have one that my grandfather gave me. its a fairly good meter...
Thanks for the review m8. I'm thinking of an upgrade to this unit.
Is it safe to place a rechargeable 9V battery in the Fluke 87V? Id like to not waste resources if possible but I feel that rechargable 9V that use lithium IONs inside usually have voltage booster that can add noise to the power supply and disrupt the circuitry.
You can use 8.4V NiMh / or check that li-ion has 2 elements in series - no booster circuit. I'd like a DVM powered with lithium from factory or at least AA /AAA size cells. 6F22 is old and not convenient
Dave, Amazon link in the description says they Ship only in US. How would you get 87V in Australia? Price is nearly double in Aus. Please respond
Probably your best work
One question: how does the Fluke 87V detect the presence of a lead plugged into the amp, or milliamp sockets ?
It has its banana-jacks split in half, contrary to the fluke 289 that uses an optical system (ir beam passing through the jacks).I ran a current of 10 Amps through the meter, and the Amp jacks got hot, which is not surprising considering only half of the jack connects to your plug. At least, that's what I think. Don't think the sense contact is able to carry current.
Was thinking about buying a fluke 87v Max, have you done a review of this?
"buying a fluke 87v Max"
most likely you will get Fluke "Made in China" 87-V Max and not "Made in USA"...I hope you that. And yeah, obviously if that's not your concern, that's different altogether. But, a small input from me Made in China has a bit accuracy issue say .001 or .01 digit.
anyway if you get "Made in USA", please share the store you will get from
My new Fluke 87 had LEAD error code and I cleaned plugs and still don’t work. MY old 87 never had such a problem.
One of my coworkers had the same issue with his, its basically a bad connection with the plugs.
Moisture (rain) and dirt in the lead holes cause this. Desolder and replace plug jack for about $25 is (was) the fix from Ebay. If you're lucky you might be able to clean out the old one good enough to clear the error. There is a built in microswitch that detects lead placement for amps/volts that gets contaminated.
Mine broke,=. Fluke wanted $290 to repair it. Why buy a Fluke if they cannot be repaired?
Dave, nice as always. Very good input from you and Fluke.
Whoever read this post of mine, I am not a fan of "Made in China" Fluke and want to grab one "Made in USA" Fluke. So, where can I buy one brand NEW Fluke "Made in USA" 87-V?
Money is not a constraint for this DMM. I got one USA distributor stating that until "soe rare case for selling to USA government on a large project" Fluke does not hand them their USA made series.
I am leaving no stone unturned to get one....Anyone? Please help!
Where is part 1?
watch?v=oQi2CKSbMtk
Thank you!
Wait a sec did Dave just say, “it’s rugged ass”.
as...
your the man Dave!😊
So, anyone know what's going on with continuity mode delay? I have a cheap meter I've had for who knows how long that I got from who knows where, and as far as I can tell, the continuity beep is analog. There's no delay, and I can make it screech with intermittent connections. IMO, that's a good thing. Why is it considered normal for "better" meters to have some kind of latching digital response that can take on the order of 10-100ms to respond?
Because a good latching continuity can capture transients that you might not hear. A Fluke 87 is specced as having a 1ms continuity. So it'll catch that 1ms transient short (which you might have trouble hearing in a noisy environment) and turns it into a half-second loud beep.
it can measure inductance?
no
great review. thanks the made in USA sold me
As good as the clip shows, I just can't complete the entire presentation due to the "in your face" kind feeling.
great review. thanks
Because getting an actual unit is impossible, you have to refer to youtube videos to rip off these meters.
You mean LCD not LCD Display
everyone says lcd display.
Dr. Lecter same like LED diodes :)
GUI interface
Wow, $300 14 years ago... Inflation is a bitch.
I know this is an old blog post but I still need to make this comment! Please don't wave things around that you hold up in front of the camera, it's bloody annoying. I suggest you use a wide angle shot and leave the article stationary on the bench, with close up's edited in if required. Also, when you are poking around inside things, don't scrape around with a hard tool like screwdrivers, use a plastic pointer or something like.
This is one of his very early videos--he's learned a lot about how to produce them since then. If you watch his newer videos, you'll see a big difference. He has better video equipment, better mics and better lighting. He also keeps the products stationary (as you suggest) and uses a plastic stylus to point out details. So basically everything you commented on (3 months ago) has been fixed for quite a while.
Thanks, I have noticed that now.
Nah I like that he waves in front of camera, good technique.
i have a fluke 87 i bought it 10 years ago. i emailed fluke for a new battery cover no customer no assistance. customer service gone there email sated you find the part number ok they never sent me the manual. they sent me a link to a sight to find the manual. i could not find the manual. the email from fluke stated if you can not find the part number we can"t help. lazy lazy. i will never buy a new fluke ever again
You'd think they ought to know their own part numbers...
Extremely poor teardown, IMO. Why do all other products get torn apart, while Fluke gets a pass? I suspect I know why. Fluke had a BIG problem years ago with someone ripping off their technology -- I think it was their RMS circuit. I think someone at Fluke said Uh-Uh on a normal teardown of their meter.
I gave this segment a Thumbs Down. Least you could have done was state why the teardown wasn't done.
how about another explanation? This is one of very first videos on this channel...
can you gift me this i really need it
"ruggard as"