@@IanKarr I recall your mention of "indexing", I am unable to locate the specs for this in Haynes, Clymer of the factory information. Will this work itself out when installed? thank you again
@@IanKarr The ends (isolated by the rubber bushings) that capture both ends of the control arm. One end has two tabs that bolt behind the front valance and the other end is secured at the rear near the steering rack. At one point in your video you are using a short calibrated level. As always, thank you
@@johngulick5629 Ah. yes, the carriers need to be oriented (indexed) to the correct angle so they'll bolt up correctly. You can check the angle of the ones you remove from the car and then copy that over once the bushings have been replaced. Or use the angles I mention in my bushing replacement video to get you in the ballpark.
Well done !!! I did the same many years ago several times, but somehow I remember that I poured a few ounces/CC's of 30W oil into the strut prior to screwing in the insert in (Thermal heat transfer). I couldn't find this in the Workshop Manual lately(?). Oh, BTW: The ol' standard practice was to lightly oil all threads prior to torquing them in (Only the bolts/nuts that will be torqued).
Thanks, EV. Yeah, I've heard tales of that. Never saw it in a shop manual, so I'm not sure if it's something people did because they thought it was a good idea...or if Porsche recommended it.
Hi again, This kept gnawing at me, it was in my 1970-90's racing memories, so I finally did a thorough online search this afternoon. HERE’S THE SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS OF THIS ISSUE: Q: Does one put oil in the shock absorber strut to facilitate heat transfer? A: Pour in a small amount of oil or grease/anti-seize the bottom of the strut) before inserting the shock prevents it corroding to the strut well's bottom. Once the shock is inserted, fill the strut cavity with oil then grease the top cap and secure. The oil transfers heat from the shock to the outer strut wall. Q: What type of oil/fluid do you put in the strut cartridge? A: Pour in a small amount of oil (or grease/anti-seize the bottom of the strut) before inserting the shock prevents it corroding to the strut well's bottom. Once the shock is inserted, fill the strut cavity with oil then grease the top cap and secure. The oil transfers heat from the shock to the outer strut wall. It does not matter what oil you use. 10W30 motor oil seems be easiest to grab in most garages that I have done shocks for friends. I read ATF has used for racing applications. Summary: It's kinda old school, but it does make sense. A good way to look at this practice is that: 1. AIR is an insulator. 2. FLUID transfers heat. BTW: I could not find any reference of this practice in the 914 AG workshop manual, PET, Haynes Repair Manual and the Clymer handbook. Regards, Elliott "E.V." Norat USGovt DOT/FAA(Ret.)
Ian, when I was looking at torquing the strut nut, it seemed like the Bilstein tool wasn't at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. If that's true, your torque value would be off. It was hard to tell from the camera angle. Great work as usual!
Great episode, need I say anything else 👍 For a moment thought the bearing might be overtight, then you moved the thrust washer, should be good for a couple of K.
Another excellent guide to re-assembly. On my original 1970 914, I had the driver's side torsion bar snap twice. The first time, I went to disassemble and found that the torsion bar was stamped "R" from the factory. I mentioned it to the factory rep (I was the parts dpt manager for my local Porsche-Audi dealership), figuring maybe it snapped because it was "sprung" in the wrong direction and the rep said, "too bad, out of warranty" ... I reinstalled the correct torsion ("L") bar and it only lasted a couple of years before I had to replace it. As I recall, there was a plug that pressed in over the end of the adjustment fitting. Like a one-time use plug that is put in place and then pressed to expand. I didn't have one of those so I used a quarter and some RTV and sealed it in place. Did you have those plugs?
Interesting about the bar! What I have heard in the past is that the bars are all completely identical when manufactured, and over the years the material "takes a set". And the problems only happen when you reverse the direction of the strain on the material. Your experience is clearly different from that.
@@IanKarr I looked at a part breakdown, you are correct (of course), the plug is only on the forward end. Been almost 50 years since I did that repair. But I did end up sealing it with a quarter and some RTV! 😸
What's this "using the proper tools" stuff? In my day, we used a pipe wrench and we liked it! But actually, a pipe wrench can work on the shock retaining nut. Unless the nut is the kind that gets threaded into the body so it sits flush, in which case you have to use the correct tool. I don't know if you mentioned this elsewhere, but in general you don't want to use the ball-joint nut tool to remove the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Most of the ones out there are not up to the very heavy loads of breaking the nut loose, and will often break. Mister Air Chisel is generally the preferred tool for removal, but that usually trashes the nut. Use the actual tool to torque the nut on, of course. Another thing to note: The 911 manual calls the later style pin that holds the ball joint onto the strut "wedge pin (always replace)". That specific phrase is used just about everywhere the pin is mentioned, which kind of hints that these are single-use items.
Hi! I got the bilsteins from eric at PMB. The wrench came directly from Bilstein. I had to order it separately. If you want to borrow mine. I’m happy to send :)
Hi Chris. Tough to tell without more info. And I'm far from an engine guru. But I'd take a look at the coil. When they're on their way out they get super hot and can't deliver good spark energy. Next time it happens, feel the coil and if it's nuclear hot, change it out. Hope this helps. But you may be better off posting to the community at 914world.com
@@IanKarr Thanks for the reply and I'll take her for a drive and check the coil. Love all the videos...they help with building up my confidence on working on my 1975 2.0. Thanks again, Chris
![Porsche 914 - Suspension, Steering and a New Tool! [Project Bumblebee ep 12]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KecED-2H39Q/mqdefault.jpg)
![Porsche 914 Teardown - Brakes and Trailing Arms [Project Bumblebee Ep. 11]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VFLyAjA_XYM/mqdefault.jpg)
Once this car is completed it will be better than new. Thanks for your great explanation as you reassemble this beautiful 914!
Thanks, Robert!
Thank you for documenting several different repairs of our 914's. Most of this stuff is basic, but your videos make things so much easier.
Thanks, John. Glad you find the videos helpful!
@@IanKarr I recall your mention of "indexing", I am unable to locate the specs for this in Haynes, Clymer of the factory information. Will this work itself out when installed? thank you again
Indexing which part?
@@IanKarr The ends (isolated by the rubber bushings) that capture both ends of the control arm. One end has two tabs that bolt behind the front valance and the other end is secured at the rear near the steering rack. At one point in your video you are using a short calibrated level. As always, thank you
@@johngulick5629 Ah. yes, the carriers need to be oriented (indexed) to the correct angle so they'll bolt up correctly. You can check the angle of the ones you remove from the car and then copy that over once the bushings have been replaced. Or use the angles I mention in my bushing replacement video to get you in the ballpark.
This is the best 914 TH-cam channel by far. Thanks for the great content.
Wow, thanks! Please subscribe if you haven't already...lots more coming.
Well done !!!
I did the same many years ago several times, but somehow I remember that I poured a few ounces/CC's of 30W oil into the strut prior to screwing in the insert in (Thermal heat transfer).
I couldn't find this in the Workshop Manual lately(?).
Oh, BTW: The ol' standard practice was to lightly oil all threads prior to torquing them in (Only the bolts/nuts that will be torqued).
Thanks, EV. Yeah, I've heard tales of that. Never saw it in a shop manual, so I'm not sure if it's something people did because they thought it was a good idea...or if Porsche recommended it.
Hi again,
This kept gnawing at me, it was in my 1970-90's racing memories, so I finally did a thorough online search this afternoon.
HERE’S THE SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS OF THIS ISSUE:
Q: Does one put oil in the shock absorber strut to facilitate heat transfer?
A: Pour in a small amount of oil or grease/anti-seize the bottom of the strut) before inserting the shock prevents it corroding to the strut well's bottom. Once the shock is inserted, fill the strut cavity with oil then grease the top cap and secure. The oil transfers heat from the shock to the outer strut wall.
Q: What type of oil/fluid do you put in the strut cartridge?
A: Pour in a small amount of oil (or grease/anti-seize the bottom of the strut) before inserting the shock prevents it corroding to the strut well's bottom. Once the shock is inserted, fill the strut cavity with oil then grease the top cap and secure. The oil transfers heat from the shock to the outer strut wall. It does not matter what oil you use. 10W30 motor oil seems be easiest to grab in most garages that I have done shocks for friends. I read ATF has used for racing applications.
Summary:
It's kinda old school, but it does make sense. A good way to look at this practice is that:
1. AIR is an insulator.
2. FLUID transfers heat.
BTW: I could not find any reference of this practice in the 914 AG workshop manual, PET, Haynes Repair Manual and the Clymer handbook.
Regards,
Elliott "E.V." Norat
USGovt DOT/FAA(Ret.)
Thanks, Elliott! Where did you find this info? Any specific place online?
Nice work as usual!
Thanks man.
Ian, when I was looking at torquing the strut nut, it seemed like the Bilstein tool wasn't at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. If that's true, your torque value would be off. It was hard to tell from the camera angle. Great work as usual!
Thanks, Jeff. I think I was pretty close. Appreciate the heads up. It doesn't look like it's going anywhere ;)
Great episode, need I say anything else 👍
For a moment thought the bearing might be overtight, then you moved the thrust washer, should be good for a couple of K.
Thanks man!
Makin' it look easy.
Oh God I hope not!
Another excellent guide to re-assembly. On my original 1970 914, I had the driver's side torsion bar snap twice. The first time, I went to disassemble and found that the torsion bar was stamped "R" from the factory. I mentioned it to the factory rep (I was the parts dpt manager for my local Porsche-Audi dealership), figuring maybe it snapped because it was "sprung" in the wrong direction and the rep said, "too bad, out of warranty" ... I reinstalled the correct torsion ("L") bar and it only lasted a couple of years before I had to replace it. As I recall, there was a plug that pressed in over the end of the adjustment fitting. Like a one-time use plug that is put in place and then pressed to expand. I didn't have one of those so I used a quarter and some RTV and sealed it in place. Did you have those plugs?
Interesting about the bar! What I have heard in the past is that the bars are all completely identical when manufactured, and over the years the material "takes a set". And the problems only happen when you reverse the direction of the strain on the material. Your experience is clearly different from that.
Thanks, Charles. The only plug I'm aware of is the welch plug at the front.
@@IanKarr I looked at a part breakdown, you are correct (of course), the plug is only on the forward end. Been almost 50 years since I did that repair. But I did end up sealing it with a quarter and some RTV! 😸
What's this "using the proper tools" stuff? In my day, we used a pipe wrench and we liked it!
But actually, a pipe wrench can work on the shock retaining nut. Unless the nut is the kind that gets threaded into the body so it sits flush, in which case you have to use the correct tool.
I don't know if you mentioned this elsewhere, but in general you don't want to use the ball-joint nut tool to remove the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Most of the ones out there are not up to the very heavy loads of breaking the nut loose, and will often break. Mister Air Chisel is generally the preferred tool for removal, but that usually trashes the nut. Use the actual tool to torque the nut on, of course.
Another thing to note: The 911 manual calls the later style pin that holds the ball joint onto the strut "wedge pin (always replace)". That specific phrase is used just about everywhere the pin is mentioned, which kind of hints that these are single-use items.
Thanks, as always, for adding to the knowledge base Dave! I'll take a look at that wedge pin as well...
Hi
Where did you buy the bilstein shock from and tool for tightening?
Hi! I got the bilsteins from eric at PMB. The wrench came directly from Bilstein. I had to order it separately. If you want to borrow mine. I’m happy to send :)
Where does the rubber washer go that comes with The Bilstein shock insert? Above or below the can cover? Thanks, V
Prob best to reach out to Bilstein to confirm
Where do u get the special tools from?
I ordered it directly from Bilstein.
By chance, is this the tool? Part Number: E4-MS08/6
Having trouble with engine almost stalling after temp is past half way....any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Chris. Tough to tell without more info. And I'm far from an engine guru. But I'd take a look at the coil. When they're on their way out they get super hot and can't deliver good spark energy. Next time it happens, feel the coil and if it's nuclear hot, change it out. Hope this helps. But you may be better off posting to the community at 914world.com
@@IanKarr Thanks for the reply and I'll take her for a drive and check the coil. Love all the videos...they help with building up my confidence on working on my 1975 2.0.
Thanks again,
Chris