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1970 Evinrude Fisherman Carb Cleaning {Step by Step}
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ส.ค. 2024
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Trying to bring a 1970 Evinrude Fisherman Outboard back to life. We are going through each part step by step to make sure it is working. Come along for the ride.
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Thank you!
I like your canned air idea 💡
I really appreciate your video. I'm probably check-up mine soon. Thanks you so much !
I rebuilt a 1960 Johnson QD-21 and sure could have used videos like yours while I was working on it. Great job especially the closeups. They really help explain everything you're doing visually.
Happy to help, Thanks for commenting and as always Stay Safe!!
Awesome video and so thorough Thank you so much. I watch a lot of repair videos. Hate it when they high speed. I don't learn a thing.
I post my video's so you can see what I am doing. Thank You
Very useful! Thank you! Got my 68 evinrude back running again
Great to hear! Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe!
Keep Watching!
Thank you. Other videos missed some of what you covered. My hole problem after a rebiuld was that thick gasket others didn't show in rebuilding.
Thanks for watching and stay safe on the water.
Great video, not to many videos on here of this exact carb. This is the EXACT same carb my motor has.
I am glad it help you. Keep watching and stay safe on the water.
great vid, thanks a bunch.
Thanks for the complement and keep watching.
Thank u good job
I got a 1969 6hp Johnson and it’s identical good job thanks for the video
Keep the carburetor clean and the motor will run good.
Thankyou
Gonna perform this service on my carb tomorrow. Got a 1969 evinrude 6hp fisherman. Got it for free because it wont run without choke. Used your video to replace my impeller and now ita pumping water. Wouldn't know where to start without your videos. Thank you.
Happy to help. As always keep watching.
@@OmFishing absolutely. Hoping you do a 90hp johnson v4 as well soon lol.
Just picked up a dirt cheap boat with one of these on it and it needs some work. Subscribed.
Great video
Happy to help. Keep watching.
thank you
Happy to help Stay Safe!!
I just brought the same exact engine you videos are very helpful. I just did my carb didnt start it yet cause its late. Would love to pick you brain on a few things. Like lean popping and the rich and lean settings.
On the low speed needle turn it clockwise until it seats gently. then turn it counterclockwise 3/4 of a turn. That should be the starting point. With the motor at operating temperature and about 700 750 RPM in gear. Adjust the low speed knob until motor runs fastest and smoothest. Wait 15 seconds for motor to respond to adjustment. Stay Safe!
@@OmFishing i cant keep this thing running. It starts right up get up to temp release the choke amd when i throttle it sounds like hissing air on and off...any suggestions?
Also she is bogging out at idle i have the same problem with the throttle lever you have a grove in it...what kind of product did you use to fix that. Epoxy?
@@anthonymattia2955 I did not like my fix on the throttle. When you give the engine more fuel the timing has to change at the proper time. I think that is what your problem is. The carb is giving more fuel and the timing is not in the right place. If you can you need to get the right replacement part. When we had the motor on the lake the epoxy started to ware off. Thanks for commenting and sharing this with us.
@@OmFishing thanks. This maybe a stupid question but how do you adjust the timing on that engine?
Excellent video how would recommend clean a 1951 evinrude aluminum fuel tank thanks for the video
I have not had any luck with old aluminum fuel tanks. Check out my fuel tank videos. Full of holes. Good Luck!
Good video.! I need the needle slow speed, mine brook off and can find any, can you help me..?
Great video! It's going to help me alot. I just acquired a johnson 6ph. I got the motor to start and to run but only when the choke is all the way out. Take the choke off even a little and it dies. I'm hoping a good carb cleaning will solve this issue otherwise I was think a bad fuel pump. What are your thoughts? Thanks again
I agree with you start with a good carburetor cleaning. It is possible that their is a fuel pump problem but I think its the carburetor. Thanks for sharing and commenting. Let me know how the carburetor cleaning works out for you. Stay Safe.
This helped me a ton I have a 1974 6hp Johnson. Is the speed adjustment is that the idle adjustment..? After you screw in then back off a turn in half how close is that to being set...?? Sorry for all question...lol I'm a newbie
With the motor at operating temperature, run at slow speed (700-750 rpm) Adjust low speed knob until motor runs fastest and smoothest. That will be the spot to leave it set. Thanks for watching and Stay safe!!
Vêry good
Thank you for commenting and as always keep watching!
Hey awsome video just a quick question. So when I did have the motor running a year ago the proble was it would run and then just stall and then you couldn't get it to run again. I took the carb apart and when I opened it. It looked brand new like it was never used but the only thing was the float and arm is dried up so bad that it is brown and flakey. Falls apart. Just wondering if this was the problem
I think so, the carburetor has to be clean. Check out my video The 4 circuits of a carburetor. th-cam.com/video/J_yqcNJqabU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
Good job on temporarily putting that carb together. At least you will know if it works before spending any money on it. Aftermarket carbs are pricey and not as good quality as the old ones.
Thanks and keep watching this motor is going to run again.
Will do and please watch some of my videos too. Will be making more here soon
OM I just bought a 1975 outboard sea king 5 hp and the fuel line inlet is a type of hookup that I have never seen before not your standard spring clamp two prong style nowadays can you do a video on those type of hookups or tell me what kind it is so I can buy a tank and line for it please?
It looks like to me it is the same as the old mercury out boards not for sure.
Hi this might sound stupid but I have the exact engine and it runs for a while then does and wont start again. I know nothing about engines so I'm going to try and follow your video and clean it. What is the liquid your cleaning it with
I am cleaning the carburetor with rubbing alcohol from the drug store, and I use canned air. That is just the way I like to do it. When you get your gas make sure that it is ethanol free. That would make your engine hard to start after it is warm if there is ethanol in it. Try a different gas station to see if it makes a difference. Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
help,,,I put a new fuel pump..new seals..hose,,cleaned the carburetor...but there is no vacuum on the fuel pump...johnson 6ks 2t..1969...cd-24
I have a Johnson 6hp 1969, I'm already desperate, I have spark in both spark plugs, it has a new gasoline pump working, I rebuilt the carburetor and it still doesn't turn on, it only stays on with the choke activated, I'm getting discouraged.
Well, yeah, somebody has been manhandling that poor carb in the past, breaking the nozzle and buggering up the high speed jet. Looks like they used an aftermarket kit as well. I applaud your decision not to wrestle that high speed jet out of there, you really need the OMC jet screwdriver. Using a regular screwdriver will damage the jet, just like you pointed out and bugger up the threads. Those jets are expensive also. I like to use tiny pipe cleaners coated in carb cleaner to pass through the jet to remove any build up/residue from the ID of the jet. Even a few thousandths build up will cause the engine to be lean at high speeds. Yes, the jet surely looked clean, but our eyes can not detect the residue I am referring to. You were smart not to try to wrestle that main nozzle out as well, already buggered up, you probably would have just snapped it off, another expensive item. There are all sorts of little holes in that nozzle, no way of knowing if they are clean unless it is removed. But, in this case, probably best to just try it out and see instead of wrecking expensive pieces. You may have to "go back in there" if the engine is lean at high speeds or has trouble accelerating. I'm betting it will be OK though, it's not like we are dealing with a quadrajet here. You method of just moving the rewind off to the side is perfect, there is no need to remove it completely making another big job...It might be easier to remove the mounting nut if you remove the cam follower first though. Putting the mounting nuts back on is probably easier if you install the cam follower after the carb is mounted to the engine. Filling that plastic follower with epoxy should do the job fine. What manual prescribes putting a bit of Loctite on the bowl screws? I don't recommend doing this only because of the increased likelihood of chunks of Loctite falling into the carb bowl during future servicing creating problems. And yeah, there was no need for gasket sealer on that carb mounting gasket, just makes a mess. Can't wait to hear this thing purrrrr, these were some of the best of OMC for sure....
hello om fishing, I have the same 6hp motor, i noticed your missing a led shot on top of the carburetor, the parts list on these motors call for 4 lead shots, mine has all four, did you leave it out? if so, Im wondering, does it run smooth ok with out it, thanks martin
I did not leave it out on purpose the motor runs fine with out it in their. I am going back and look again at the motor. I wonder if it is countersunk and is down in there. I will let you know what I find. The motor is used a lot by my son. I was just in the boat last weekend and shot some video of how good it is running.
@@OmFishing thanks for getting back to me I have seen several of these same year motors with the lead shot missing in the same place as yours.. and several with it in that place.. the pdf parts list requires 4 of them.. mine has all four.. your motor in the video is idling- running smooth..makes me wonder.. I am rebuilding my carb this week.. will see what happens.. just bought the motor.. thanks blake
Thanks for a great video. What's that liquid you use for flushing it clean?
That liquid is Isopropyl alcohol from walmart. Thanks for watching.
@@OmFishing Thank you for your answer. I got the carb of and cleaned it, though it was surprisingly clean already. I can start the motor, but i dies right away. I see fuel in the carb, so I know that's working
I did the same kit on my carburetor and it idles great in the start position but when I throttle down to the shift position or slow position it coughs and dies. Any advice?
Make sure your linkage is set correct. The timing might be causing that problem.
I need some help! I bought a boat with the motor and it is a Johnson 6 horse and the carb is just like the one you are working on! The guy said that the carb had been ckeaned and when I took it of it was as clean as a pin! My problem is, It starts and idles but when you put it in gear it will only go slow! Like just above idle! When you take it out of gear and open it up it revs up really good! I am not a motor man and I do not know what to do! Can you help?
When the motor does not have any load on it it will rev up easy with very little fuel. The first think I would check is the carburetor and magneto synchronization. Check the throttle control lever is advancing like it should. Check the manifold gasket for air leaks. Check those things and if that don't fix it we can go deeper.
So my Evinrude 6 hp bogs while in gear about half of what it should be doing but in neutral full throttles fine ... any help ??
The first place I would check is fuel. Make sure the fuel line is not got any air leaks like the connection on the ends { O rings good } Then make sure fuel pump is clean and working and the carb. I think it is starving for fuel under a load.
What brand and part number of carb kit did you use on the rebuild?
I use OEM and I buy my parts from Boat Net. I don't get any thing from boat net that is just where I buy my part. If you can't find it there just let me know and I will look up the part number. Thanks for watching and Stay Safe!!
Can you buy a aftermarket carburetor.
I have a 1971 6 HP Johnson , I've replaced the impeller and full carb repair , it runs fine just when it's under load I can have top revs but doesn't go as fast as it should , what would cause this ?
First of all did it work fine before you started have problems and did the work on it. Did you change the prop or anything, When you say revs. Revs like the prop is slipping or don't rev up like it did before?
@@OmFishing at full throttle it doesn't runnas good as I've seen others run , it bogs down under weight
@@steve-wf7vfIs the prop in good shape. I would check the leakage to make sure it is adjusted right. Make sure it is getting all the fuel it needs for that rpm.
I have 1972 motor and the carb has a needle in the low and high speed oriface,,theres no adjustment on the high speed oriface on your motor?..I find It strange that u only have a plug in the bottom bowl and not a adjustment needle,,could u please tell me how that works?
The needle valve on my motor has been replaced with a high speed orifice. From the factory. This will meter the fuel with out any adjustment.
I have a johnson 6 hp. 1969. Can't adjust the slow speed. When the throttle valve is closed, it stalls. Is this normal for this motor? If not, where could the reason be? Thanks for the helpful videos.
Check out my video on the four circuits of a carburetor
th-cam.com/video/J_yqcNJqabU/w-d-xo.html
There is no kill switch on these motors. When you close the throttle completely, it grounds out the ignition, hence the motor dies. It’s supposed to work that way.
@@edwardhill6945 It shuts off the engine, but not by grounding the ignition.
how can u find key switch diagram for 1989 ec 40 evinrude
I have found that most service manuals in the back have wiring diagrams for the complete motor, Tilt and trim and the key switch and more.
Hey bro I got a 6 hp evinrude that seems to be leaking fuel when it starts through 1 of the 4 bolt in the lower unit any solution to the problem.thank u
I think it is running to rich with fuel. What you are seeing is the fuel leaking out of the exhaust housing.
@@OmFishing looks like oil
I have same kind of motor it a 69 6 hrs where can I fine a carb for it I have to rebuilt mine hard to start and doesnt stay running
I don't know on that one. Most old motors a lot of the parts are unavailable from parts places. If I ever run across one I send you a message. That happens to all of use using old equipment sometimes you need a part you just can not find. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@OmFishing thank you
I found the web site so I order the carb and fuel pump
@@DjStoen Be sure and let me know how it works out for you. Good to hear you found parts.
Thank you for making this video! I recently acquired a '66 6hp, so I'm adding this to my favorites as a reference if ever needed.
I wanted to ask, where can i find parts for it? You mentioned you were able to order some.
(not sure on this model) Sorry to hijack your top comment, if anyone is having a problem with fuel making it to the engine after carb rebuild behind the drain plug is an orifice plug that can escape cleaning from chemical soaking. you need a flat head screw driver that can fit the drain plug width and ease the brass plug out. I spent 6 days only being able to get the engine to run for short burst on carb cleaner. removed that plug put a needle through it (green/grey oil build up came out) shot it clean with carb cleaner.....motor finally runs. hope this helps, seen this on other forums and no one comes back to say how or if they fixed it.
@@kekq3525 @kek Q Whoa... First: Good job on the fix. You're correct, that's an easy spot to miss in cleaning.
Second, and most importantly: That's the high-speed jet you're talking about. Don't poke just "anything" into that orifice. Its diameter is precisely matched to that carb and engine. If you accidentally widen it by even a thousandth, you can expect significant differences in performance.
@@kekq3525 It probably doesn't get emphasized much in videos because there's an unspoken expectation that viewers would already know what the importance of that orifice. But there's nothing arbitrary about its design and specs.
I recently had a flooding problem on a '72 25hp. Not simply "rich", but flooding--spitting back into the carb. After going through everything I could think of, the problem ended up being the high-speed orifice. Apparently, a prior owner intentionally drilled into it to increase the diameter. Not sure why. Possibly a bad idea to fix a lean-running issue. But that also is a very common thing teenagers used to do to small engine carbs, thinking that would make their motors more powerful. It will not.
Every part of those fuel systems is precisely engineered and tuned mathematically in regards to air/fuel ratios for the cylinder capacity. And on those 2 stroke outboards, there's also an equal amount of precision engineered into the exhaust...all the way down to the egress into the water. If you alter any of the physical constraints of that system, then the expectations built into the rest will no longer be met. High risk of never making it run right until the altered part is replaced.