Thank you for the video, I ram purchasing one today for 90 Canadian; however, I have to clean off some haze in the inner lens group. Simple enough to do.
Coincidentally I too was watching Ken's video on Value Nikon Lenses earlier this week and I made a list - the one that caught my eye was the 35-70mm f2.8 D and I came on to TH-cam to see if there was another review before I bought one - This is so helpful , Frederik , thank you , sir !!
If you are making that transition from Autofocus to manual I highly suggest this lens. It's inspiring. It is am amazing lens. Crystal clear, great bokeh, the AF is easy but the manual functions make you want to play, so fun to use! I purchased mine from Adorama in condition: G = $100 The lens came in great condition. Some minor scratches from wear and didn't come with a hood or sleeve. The best $100 you will ever spend on Nikon gear.
I'm thinking of buying it for my D850 as a Standard Zoom for portraits etc. Is it compatable to modern lenses regarding the "crystal clearness"? Can't imagine that it might be that good given its' low price (~150€ used)
I had this lens for many years mounted on a D700. I sold that camera over a year ago and forgot about it. I recently bought a small D3500 for traveling and put this lens on again. The D3500 can't connect with the lens at all (no aperture control like you can do on D5000), but I use it in full manual mode and I really enjoy it that way. When I say full manual is FULL manual (that means manual focusing, manual aperture, manual ISO, manual metering and flash (TTL doesn't work). It basically just sends light into the sensor and that's all I need (it feels like I'm using an expensive Leica).
Yep, I think very highly of Japanese and their ability to take good care of their camera gear. I have bought most of my vintage lenses and my Nikon D4 exactly for that reason. And only been disappointed once. So stats are good in favor of Japan if you ask me!
@@frederikboving I never heard about this lens before I come across your video, since i m in japan it was so easy for me to find copies with less dust, mold and spider
I picked up this lens after watching the video $150 us shipped from japan in like new condition It’s my favorite lens now and hasn’t been off the d750 scene I bought it
I still own and use this lens though I also own a 24-70mm f2.8. I once saw a review of this lens and even when pixel peeping it was clear that it came within a hairs breadth of that later lens at least in terms of sharpness. Why do I use it? Well, when travelling it is much lighter and more handy than the later lens though its range is less. And in practice its image quality is every bit as good so far as I am capable of shooting. The only thing I do not quite like is that it is a push pull zoom and I prefer the two touch type. But that a mere quibble.
Thanks for sharing Peter! I am with you on the push-pull thing, especially when switching directly from other lenses, but as you say, it is not a biggie.
just bought the lens today for 15 euros has abit of scraches on the front glass but its o; hopped on this vid to see how good it is and its outstanding keep up the works i never knew that till i putted it on my d7000works lol
@@moshikohn5955 Sorry I'm not good with fixing lenses. But maybe try shooting at different apertures to see if the scratches are any issue at all? They may not be...
@@frederikboving thanks for the help I still don't understand why the lens has to be at F22 and not at like f2.8 still it's a great lens just don't understand the button next to the aputure
As a 35-70mm 2.8 owner, I gotta say I was surprised to see a comparison to the 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 - and the latter was much sharper in detail, in a smaller + lighter form factor with the added 28mm focal length. I'm not sure what is the "gray area" where the 35-70mm shines much better besides the steady f2.8. 🤔
@@frederikboving Seriously? I didn't know it about this 28-105, since any lens with a range of apertures (3.5-4.4) instead of a steady aperture - feels cheap. But since compactness of size, usability, and weight are important to me as I travel - then this lens might be able to replace me Nikkor 28mm f2.8D + Nikkor 35-70mm f2.8, and only partially maybe - the Nikkir 60mm micro (which I only use for macro purposes- filling a face within the whole frame, close up on objects, etc. Not bugs photography). So, I do wonder if I could do that indeed. (i will still carry my 35mm f2 AF-D + Nikkor 70-210 f4-5.6 (didn't use it yet).
@@eladbariyes, seriously- but you have to find a good copy. It was a kit lens and they made an enormous amount of copies and some have led rough lives. But if you find a good copy, this one may just be your best option whenever traveling. th-cam.com/video/0yaNK7mSbUo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CrIGK_0uGjvHEkGV
@@frederikboving Man, thank you for confirming! This might just save my back. I can replace 3 lenses with only carrying this 28-105. Just hope the lack of 2.8 won't be a huge problem. I do tend to shoot outside in the sun, but it's all film so ISO is the limit here. So, indoors it might be problematic, who knows. But, yeah, the copy I got is pretty mint in box. Just the whole macro slide button feels cheap and flimsy, with the whole trick of focusing to infinity to slide it back to normal. Feels it's gonna snap:)
Hi I have these 35-70 af2.8 D, and I used them in the past on a Nikon D70, D300, F70, and FM3a and worked great . Did not use them for quite few years now I tried them and noted that the focus ring is not working the full range from 0.6 to infinity, it’s working only from. 1m to 3m , at both end of the range is not touching the end of the range. Would you please advise what could be the issue and if this is repairable? I live in Texas USA
Oh, that is a tough question. I read your question so that the lens previously has worked fine with the mentioned cameras, and after af few idle years, an issue with focusing near/far has materialised. As there is no electronics in the lens, it is either the focus mechanics that is not working properly or some of the elements that are mis-positioned. I do not really know how to fix it and I would guess that to get a pro to do it would be expensive relative to the market value of the lens. Am I right that all the cameras you use are without the built in AF motor and you use this lens as manual focus? You can try to turn the AF lever at the rear of the lens and see of you can get it to focus to infinity / closest; that way you know that if the AF mechanics can get it to work, it is the mechanics of the mechanical focus that is at fault. If not, then it is more likely the glass elements that are at fault. Hope this is a little help. Best Frederik
2:53 They have calculated the distance from OBJECT taking all the FLANG distance, up to film equivalent or Sensor location that is marked by a line, passing through a circle, as you see on top of your camera body at this timestamp: 1:41 (Right top of the frame, over the top of camera body). btw this is a norm for measurement.
Sam, your comment is still relevant! Unfortunately TH-cam does not allow me to upload a revised video on the same URL, so it will have to stay as it is. I call the line passing through a circle for the “Tintin and the pharaohs” symbol these days - I think there is a lot of resemblance :-D
How would you say it performs on wide open/f2.8? Is it good wide open or should you stop it down? I’m actually interested in using one for my D3 since it looks such a nice quality for the price lens
It is soft wide open. Both at 35mm and 70mm. Please have a look at this flickr album: www.flickr.com/gp/frederikboving/41ik46 - two at 35 mm and two at 70 mm, varying from f/2.8 to F/8. Notice that for the wide shots I could not make the test scene fill the frame as the minimum focus distance got in the way. If you take these pictures into LR and compare in 400% there is a big difference, if you stay at 100% then it is there, but of course not as pronounced. Hope this helps. For much of what I shoot I doubt I would notice the difference. Also notice that I should do the test for subjects further away, but still this small test give some idea as to how the lens performs.
Hi, I am from Argentina. So sorry for my bad English. One technician recommended me no tu use it in my D750 because in the future the lens will be affect some parts of the diaphragm system and the focus motor/engine. Do you know something about this? Thanks in advance. Regards.
Hi Daniel, looks to me like your English is very fine! I understand it so that a technician advised you NOT to use the AF 35-70 mm f/2.8D lens on your Nikon D750? That sounds strange to me. The D750 has the built in auto focus motor and hence is designed to work with and AF lens like this one. The only thing that I can think of that you need to be careful about is if you want to focus manually, then it is important you switch the button on the front left of your camera from "AF" to "M", otherwise when you turn the focus ring, you will be driving the motor as well (you can feel a lot of resistance) and that is not good, neither for the lens nor for the D750. But other than that, I have not heard of problems with this lens. Another issue could be that if you later want to upgrade to a mirrorless Z6 camera for example, then the Z6 has no AF motor built in (and nor does the FTZ adaptor) so you are left with manual focus only with this lens. Hope this clarifies. Happy new year!
@@frederikboving That was he told me that the D750 is a fine delicate piece of engineering and the 35-70 was designed for older strong bodies (more metal and less plastic). He recommended to use the lens in this kind of bodies. And by the way, Happy New Year and thanks for your answers
@@danielrfunes Ah, ok, got it! It is the mount that is to weak then! Yes, I can see his point, but in my case when mounting the 35-70 on the D750, it automatically becomes so "nose heavy" that I naturally hold the camera under the lens with my left hand, and that takes the load off the F-mount to some extend. But I do see his point.
@@frederikboving Hej sir, how are you? Sorry to bother you but I have another question: what about the vacuum effect and the dust because of this push and pull system. I am worried about the dust in the lens and the D700 sensor. Thanks in advance.
@@danielrfunes Hi, it's a valid concern and the "open" lens will attract dust, but even though my lens has lots of dust in the internals, it has never affected image quality as far as I can tell. And you can always clean the sensor, so I would not worry so much about that part, unless of course you are not comfortable cleaning the sensor. Hope this helps! All the best!
It’s strange how I often end up opting for things you already bought yourself :-) I just ordered a mint version of this lens, and wasn’t really surprised when this video cropped in the Google search results ;-)
I just bought a D700 too :-) Although I am in Japan, it was close to ¥60,000 to get a mint body with an under 15,000 shutter count. Don’t even get me started on lens hoods, or a certain dk-17m eyepiece! The market knows the value of something :-)
@@snoogly Ha-ha! Good you found a good copy of the D700. A shutter count of 15t is VERY low - so good job! Yes, I have had to importa DK-17M from China!! That was the only place I could find one - but as you say, they sure know what prices to charge!
I have the Non-D version with a Nikon D7200, the lens in macro mode and putting of the macro mode in 35mm the focus is still manual, in 50mm and 70mm the autofocus works perfectly... Is normal in this lens or my lens have a problem?
Hi Luis, I think this is how the lens works. Mine does the same. At least I have not been able to get AF to work in macro mode. I think it is because the mechanics that operate the lens does not reach the "macro" end of the lens, i.e. the last few millimeters the lens extends when you take it into macro mode. Hope this helps.
@@frederikboving I fully agree. For traveling very light I have an older AF-Nikkor 28-200mm, which has less than 350g. For DSLRs or 35mm bodies an excellent thing.
I'm keeping my eye out on a deal for one of these lenses and a nikon 80-200 2.8. I appreciate the value and quality these 2 lenses bring. I have a d5100. No stranger to going full manual mode though as I picked up a 50mm non-ai lens a couple years back.
Yeah. His "new" camera is going to change the way he shoots a bunch of his lenses (if he still has them). I've a bunch of Ai-s and AF-D lenses and love them all but they do change the way and mindset I have depending on which I'm using.
The AF will not work. It requires an in-body AF motor, which the 5200 does not have. The lens will fit the camera just fine - the F-mount has been around since the beginning of times. I am not sure if the D5200 has all the required contacts to transmit metering and other information from the lens to the camera body - I know some of the contacts are missing on the D3x00 cameras, but not sure if this also applies to the D5200.
Hi Webfolio, sorry not to get back to you before now: yes, most "older" lenses do have flare issues i general, and this one is no exception. The coating on most older lenses is not that great - it is really where a more modern lens delivers much better quality. I do not know if this particular lens is worse than so many other old lenses (I doubt it), but as a general rule, the older lenses are not so strong when it comes to coating.
@@frederikboving Hi! I am aware barrel distortion could be fixed in Photoshop, etc. , but, I'm telling you...no matter if you pull that tool to a max, there is still something off about a picture that was patched like that. Something about (facial) proportions is still off... I noticed the 35mm 2.8 gave me super straight images, yet, the 35mm f2.0D for example- was distorted..and I think it's because it also let me focus very close, so distortion was introduced..
I guess you will get perspective exaggeration with any lens that has a short minimum focal distance. Big nose and small ears when shooting portraits. But I don't think this qualifies as lens distortion.
Only thing I don't like about it is that it is so dang heavy, and acts like a slide hammer when carrying it lens down on a strap. Also quite a bit of lens flare depending on angle to light. Nikon D750.
Thank you for the video, I ram purchasing one today for 90 Canadian; however, I have to clean off some haze in the inner lens group. Simple enough to do.
All the best with your new lens 👌
Coincidentally I too was watching Ken's video on Value Nikon Lenses earlier this week and I made a list - the one that caught my eye was the 35-70mm f2.8 D and I came on to TH-cam to see if there was another review before I bought one -
This is so helpful , Frederik , thank you , sir !!
🙏🏻
If you are making that transition from Autofocus to manual I highly suggest this lens. It's inspiring.
It is am amazing lens. Crystal clear, great bokeh, the AF is easy but the manual functions make you want to play, so fun to use!
I purchased mine from Adorama in condition: G = $100
The lens came in great condition. Some minor scratches from wear and didn't come with a hood or sleeve. The best $100 you will ever spend on Nikon gear.
Thanks for sharing!
I'm thinking of buying it for my D850 as a Standard Zoom for portraits etc.
Is it compatable to modern lenses regarding the "crystal clearness"?
Can't imagine that it might be that good given its' low price (~150€ used)
The closest focusing distance is measured from the film plane, not the front of the lens.
Yes, thank you! I learned that since I made the video. It is marked by the symbool looking like the one from Tintin and the Cigars of the Pharaoh!
@@frederikboving Cigars of the Pharoah! I never thought of it like that.
Oh cool info I hadn't known. Thanks for sharing.
I had this lens for many years mounted on a D700. I sold that camera over a year ago and forgot about it. I recently bought a small D3500 for traveling and put this lens on again. The D3500 can't connect with the lens at all (no aperture control like you can do on D5000), but I use it in full manual mode and I really enjoy it that way. When I say full manual is FULL manual (that means manual focusing, manual aperture, manual ISO, manual metering and flash (TTL doesn't work). It basically just sends light into the sensor and that's all I need (it feels like I'm using an expensive Leica).
Hi Boris, thank you for sharing! All the best!
Its a superb lens. First photo I took blew me away. Loved it ever since. Thanks for the video there were a couple of hints I got from it. :)
Thanks for sharing K M!
Thank you, I didn't know how to zoom with this lens.
0:55 I’m getting anxiety from how you put the lens on the camera 😂
Great video anyway 👍👌😀
Ha-ha! Thanks!
Thank you for thy compliment, here in Japan it still possible to find rare pieces on vintage website
Yep, I think very highly of Japanese and their ability to take good care of their camera gear. I have bought most of my vintage lenses and my Nikon D4 exactly for that reason. And only been disappointed once. So stats are good in favor of Japan if you ask me!
@@frederikboving I never heard about this lens before I come across your video, since i m in japan it was so easy for me to find copies with less dust, mold and spider
Love the D Lenses, currently paired this lens with Nikon D800, insanely sharp and love the colour rendition… Thank you Japan for making this lens…
I picked up this lens after watching the video
$150 us shipped from japan in like new condition
It’s my favorite lens now and hasn’t been off the d750 scene I bought it
Can you please leave a link to your Flickr or other web sites where I can see some of your sample images with this lens at high rez? Thx.
I still own and use this lens though I also own a 24-70mm f2.8. I once saw a review of this lens and even when pixel peeping it was clear that it came within a hairs breadth of that later lens at least in terms of sharpness. Why do I use it? Well, when travelling it is much lighter and more handy than the later lens though its range is less. And in practice its image quality is every bit as good so far as I am capable of shooting. The only thing I do not quite like is that it is a push pull zoom and I prefer the two touch type. But that a mere quibble.
Thanks for sharing Peter! I am with you on the push-pull thing, especially when switching directly from other lenses, but as you say, it is not a biggie.
Hi! Thanks a lot! For this lens need camera Kodak DCS Pro SLR/n. It's the best set.
Not sure I follow you but thank you i
just bought the lens today for 15 euros has abit of scraches on the front glass but its o; hopped on this vid to see how good it is and its outstanding keep up the works i never knew that till i putted it on my d7000works lol
What a bargain!! 👌💪
@@frederikboving well i pays 15€ for it they had also a 28f2.8 and a 55mc both d just one problem I have to somehow fix the front glass any tips
@@moshikohn5955 Sorry I'm not good with fixing lenses. But maybe try shooting at different apertures to see if the scratches are any issue at all? They may not be...
@@frederikboving thanks for the help I still don't understand why the lens has to be at F22 and not at like f2.8 still it's a great lens just don't understand the button next to the aputure
@@moshikohn5955 when the lens is at minimum aperture then you control the aperture with the front command dial!
Ken Wheeler is a great source of good info. I bought the same lens after my 24-70 dropped…never looked back!!! Enjoy yours!!!
Thanks Frankie - enjoy yours!
In case you were still wondering, the minimum focus distance is measured from the sensor, not from the front of the lens.
Thank you - it is indeed!
I have it also. I hope you would make another video explaining the distortion it gets at 35mm. Merci.
And by distortion you mean barrel distortion? The one that Ken Rockwell debates here: kenrockwell.com/nikon/3570.htm#perf, yes?
th-cam.com/video/QfVPQ9XQDXk/w-d-xo.html - new video regarding removal of distortion.
As a 35-70mm 2.8 owner, I gotta say I was surprised to see a comparison to the 28-105mm 3.5-4.5 - and the latter was much sharper in detail, in a smaller + lighter form factor with the added 28mm focal length.
I'm not sure what is the "gray area" where the 35-70mm shines much better besides the steady f2.8. 🤔
@@eladbari if you find a good copy of the 28-105 it is an amazingly lens with unmatched price/value if you don't mind heavy CA too much...
@@frederikboving Seriously? I didn't know it about this 28-105, since any lens with a range of apertures (3.5-4.4) instead of a steady aperture - feels cheap.
But since compactness of size, usability, and weight are important to me as I travel - then this lens might be able to replace me Nikkor 28mm f2.8D + Nikkor 35-70mm f2.8, and only partially maybe - the Nikkir 60mm micro (which I only use for macro purposes- filling a face within the whole frame, close up on objects, etc. Not bugs photography).
So, I do wonder if I could do that indeed.
(i will still carry my 35mm f2 AF-D + Nikkor 70-210 f4-5.6 (didn't use it yet).
@@eladbariyes, seriously- but you have to find a good copy. It was a kit lens and they made an enormous amount of copies and some have led rough lives. But if you find a good copy, this one may just be your best option whenever traveling. th-cam.com/video/0yaNK7mSbUo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CrIGK_0uGjvHEkGV
@@frederikboving Man, thank you for confirming! This might just save my back. I can replace 3 lenses with only carrying this 28-105. Just hope the lack of 2.8 won't be a huge problem. I do tend to shoot outside in the sun, but it's all film so ISO is the limit here. So, indoors it might be problematic, who knows.
But, yeah, the copy I got is pretty mint in box. Just the whole macro slide button feels cheap and flimsy, with the whole trick of focusing to infinity to slide it back to normal. Feels it's gonna snap:)
Have you noticed more dust on your camera sensor after using push pull lenses?
Nope. But I don't baby my gear so it may be a case of sheer ignorance 😳
"it doesn`t say please" - you elicited an instaneous chuckle followed by a like from me with that filler remark Frederik
Hi I have these 35-70 af2.8 D, and I used them in the past on a Nikon D70, D300, F70, and FM3a and worked great . Did not use them for quite few years now I tried them and noted that the focus ring is not working the full range from 0.6 to infinity, it’s working only from. 1m to 3m , at both end of the range is not touching the end of the range. Would you please advise what could be the issue and if this is repairable? I live in Texas USA
Oh, that is a tough question. I read your question so that the lens previously has worked fine with the mentioned cameras, and after af few idle years, an issue with focusing near/far has materialised. As there is no electronics in the lens, it is either the focus mechanics that is not working properly or some of the elements that are mis-positioned. I do not really know how to fix it and I would guess that to get a pro to do it would be expensive relative to the market value of the lens. Am I right that all the cameras you use are without the built in AF motor and you use this lens as manual focus? You can try to turn the AF lever at the rear of the lens and see of you can get it to focus to infinity / closest; that way you know that if the AF mechanics can get it to work, it is the mechanics of the mechanical focus that is at fault. If not, then it is more likely the glass elements that are at fault. Hope this is a little help. Best Frederik
this is really a a nice lens , i pourchased 2 pieces in japan and i am sitll enjoying it
Smart of you to get 2 copies! And glad you agree this is a nice lens!
This may be a dumb question but I saw this lens but the brand was Nikon-kalimar 35mm-70mm f2.8 Ai-s. Is it the same lens?
Sorry, I don't know the answer to that question.
I wonder if there is difference in optics between D and non-D versions. I can buy the non-D version pretty cheap.
I do not own a non-D but after a bit of googling it looks like it is only distance information and CPU information that is the difference.
2:53 They have calculated the distance from OBJECT taking all the FLANG distance, up to film equivalent or Sensor location that is marked by a line, passing through a circle, as you see on top of your camera body at this timestamp:
1:41 (Right top of the frame, over the top of camera body).
btw this is a norm for measurement.
Oppppsss this was answered before but guess not as nice as I put it! :) so I'm not going to delete this comment.
Sam, your comment is still relevant! Unfortunately TH-cam does not allow me to upload a revised video on the same URL, so it will have to stay as it is. I call the line passing through a circle for the “Tintin and the pharaohs” symbol these days - I think there is a lot of resemblance :-D
How would you say it performs on wide open/f2.8? Is it good wide open or should you stop it down? I’m actually interested in using one for my D3 since it looks such a nice quality for the price lens
It is soft wide open. Both at 35mm and 70mm. Please have a look at this flickr album: www.flickr.com/gp/frederikboving/41ik46 - two at 35 mm and two at 70 mm, varying from f/2.8 to F/8. Notice that for the wide shots I could not make the test scene fill the frame as the minimum focus distance got in the way. If you take these pictures into LR and compare in 400% there is a big difference, if you stay at 100% then it is there, but of course not as pronounced. Hope this helps. For much of what I shoot I doubt I would notice the difference. Also notice that I should do the test for subjects further away, but still this small test give some idea as to how the lens performs.
@@frederikboving ok, thank you! 😊
Hi, I am from Argentina. So sorry for my bad English. One technician recommended me no tu use it in my D750 because in the future the lens will be affect some parts of the diaphragm system and the focus motor/engine. Do you know something about this? Thanks in advance. Regards.
Hi Daniel, looks to me like your English is very fine! I understand it so that a technician advised you NOT to use the AF 35-70 mm f/2.8D lens on your Nikon D750? That sounds strange to me. The D750 has the built in auto focus motor and hence is designed to work with and AF lens like this one. The only thing that I can think of that you need to be careful about is if you want to focus manually, then it is important you switch the button on the front left of your camera from "AF" to "M", otherwise when you turn the focus ring, you will be driving the motor as well (you can feel a lot of resistance) and that is not good, neither for the lens nor for the D750. But other than that, I have not heard of problems with this lens. Another issue could be that if you later want to upgrade to a mirrorless Z6 camera for example, then the Z6 has no AF motor built in (and nor does the FTZ adaptor) so you are left with manual focus only with this lens. Hope this clarifies. Happy new year!
@@frederikboving That was he told me that the D750 is a fine delicate piece of
engineering and the 35-70 was designed for older strong bodies (more metal and less plastic). He recommended to use the lens in this kind of bodies. And by the way, Happy New Year and thanks for your answers
@@danielrfunes Ah, ok, got it! It is the mount that is to weak then! Yes, I can see his point, but in my case when mounting the 35-70 on the D750, it automatically becomes so "nose heavy" that I naturally hold the camera under the lens with my left hand, and that takes the load off the F-mount to some extend. But I do see his point.
@@frederikboving Hej sir, how are you? Sorry to bother you but I have another question: what about the vacuum effect and the dust because of this push and pull system. I am worried about the dust in the lens and the D700 sensor. Thanks in advance.
@@danielrfunes Hi, it's a valid concern and the "open" lens will attract dust, but even though my lens has lots of dust in the internals, it has never affected image quality as far as I can tell. And you can always clean the sensor, so I would not worry so much about that part, unless of course you are not comfortable cleaning the sensor. Hope this helps! All the best!
dose the autofokus only dosent work on macro mode or dosent at all on the 5600 ?
It doesnt work unfortunately. See here: th-cam.com/video/rfA-edJArj8/w-d-xo.html
That's the concert lens for my Nikon N90s.
👌
Best lens for fx as well
👌
It’s strange how I often end up opting for things you already bought yourself :-) I just ordered a mint version of this lens, and wasn’t really surprised when this video cropped in the Google search results ;-)
Ha-ha! Thank you Snoogly, yes, I guess this lens is a classic!
I just bought a D700 too :-) Although I am in Japan, it was close to ¥60,000 to get a mint body with an under 15,000 shutter count. Don’t even get me started on lens hoods, or a certain dk-17m eyepiece! The market knows the value of something :-)
@@snoogly Ha-ha! Good you found a good copy of the D700. A shutter count of 15t is VERY low - so good job! Yes, I have had to importa DK-17M from China!! That was the only place I could find one - but as you say, they sure know what prices to charge!
Have you done any landscape photography with this lens?
Yep. Examples here: flic.kr/p/2j1fQJt flic.kr/p/2iZD5qF flic.kr/p/2iXPzzd - although I must admit it has been a while...
I have the Non-D version with a Nikon D7200, the lens in macro mode and putting of the macro mode in 35mm the focus is still manual, in 50mm and 70mm the autofocus works perfectly... Is normal in this lens or my lens have a problem?
Hi Luis, I think this is how the lens works. Mine does the same. At least I have not been able to get AF to work in macro mode. I think it is because the mechanics that operate the lens does not reach the "macro" end of the lens, i.e. the last few millimeters the lens extends when you take it into macro mode. Hope this helps.
In the 80s this zoom range was standard, but I would not consider this a very practical lens. A 24-70mm or 24-120 is far more versatile.
I guess more reach (wider/longer) is always a bonus, all other parameters unchanged.
@@frederikboving I fully agree. For traveling very light I have an older AF-Nikkor 28-200mm, which has less than 350g. For DSLRs or 35mm bodies an excellent thing.
Great information
hard to get one clean. haze or fungi or mechanics are introuble
Agreed. Mine had both dust and fungus but as it often sits in the edge of the glass, shooting stopped down just s bit can mitigate the issue.
I'm keeping my eye out on a deal for one of these lenses and a nikon 80-200 2.8. I appreciate the value and quality these 2 lenses bring. I have a d5100. No stranger to going full manual mode though as I picked up a 50mm non-ai lens a couple years back.
I have one for sale for 80-200!!
Both actually if you’re interested
@@GoldenRoseRecords Pricing?
Im sure you know by now since this is a 4 year old video, but the focus distance is measured from the sensor.
Yep. Agreed. 👍
Just got one 65 GBP (70 EUR) - bargain but will need to take it apart for a clean :) 2 years later he's rocking a D4 :D
Yeah. His "new" camera is going to change the way he shoots a bunch of his lenses (if he still has them). I've a bunch of Ai-s and AF-D lenses and love them all but they do change the way and mindset I have depending on which I'm using.
@@jamesoliver6625 I don't have that problem since my 7500 won't play nice with an AIs 😒
Does it work on the d5200?
The AF will not work. It requires an in-body AF motor, which the 5200 does not have. The lens will fit the camera just fine - the F-mount has been around since the beginning of times. I am not sure if the D5200 has all the required contacts to transmit metering and other information from the lens to the camera body - I know some of the contacts are missing on the D3x00 cameras, but not sure if this also applies to the D5200.
Nice review. I heard this lens tends to produce lens flares with back lit subjects. Is it true?
Hi Webfolio, sorry not to get back to you before now: yes, most "older" lenses do have flare issues i general, and this one is no exception. The coating on most older lenses is not that great - it is really where a more modern lens delivers much better quality. I do not know if this particular lens is worse than so many other old lenses (I doubt it), but as a general rule, the older lenses are not so strong when it comes to coating.
What a shame that the macro mode is only for 35mm. I can't macro at 70mm :\
Better than nothing...but then...the barrel distortion...
You are aware the barrel distortion can be fixed in post?
@@frederikboving Hi! I am aware barrel distortion could be fixed in Photoshop, etc. , but, I'm telling you...no matter if you pull that tool to a max, there is still something off about a picture that was patched like that. Something about (facial) proportions is still off...
I noticed the 35mm 2.8 gave me super straight images, yet, the 35mm f2.0D for example- was distorted..and I think it's because it also let me focus very close, so distortion was introduced..
I guess you will get perspective exaggeration with any lens that has a short minimum focal distance. Big nose and small ears when shooting portraits. But I don't think this qualifies as lens distortion.
which camera did you use?
Gio Derri Nikon D5600
Only thing I don't like about it is that it is so dang heavy, and acts like a slide hammer when carrying it lens down on a strap. Also quite a bit of lens flare depending on angle to light. Nikon D750.
Yes, life with FF glass is those with big biceps! :-D
I got mine yesterday and am really excited to start shooting with it. I noticed that mine don't have the D letter. Do you know what's the difference?
D - D-type lenses send camera to subject distance information to the camera.
Thanks
th-cam.com/video/QfVPQ9XQDXk/w-d-xo.html - new video regarding removal of distortion.
Possibly the Worst lens mounting EVER.
Thank you Chuck - practice makes perfect 👌
A great lens - pity its push-pull ... 🦘
Agreed!