@@oriancunningham I really didn’t notice that until I was editing the footage. The ratchet strap worked great but o think you’re right, it’s designed for a breaker bar
Something that eluded you on this was the deck idler movement. There was a square hole on an Ell portion of the idler bracket. That is for a 1/2" drive breaker bar. With a breaker bar in that hole, you can swing the idler to a position correct for installing the belt.
i had the same mower never found the model number...but the Cub Cadet Tank M54 is the same mower just yellow and black, mine was a little slow also changed the hydro-oil it takes 20/50 oil and made a big difference on mine.
Things I learned today: there’s almost always a square hole in an idler tension arm to use a ratchet or breaker bar to detension in order to replace a belt; measure everything on the original engine in order to be able to source the correct replacement, including shaft diameter and length, distance to all 4 outer edges of the engine to confirm it’ll fit, measurements of PTO to confirm replacement will actually fit; diameters of shaft drive pulley and placement distance below engine; engine mounting hole locations in relation to shaft. Also, determine actual issues with original engine before abandoning it. I would have performed a leakdown test and sprayed soapy water around the outside to locate suspected crack or checked valves for that leak. I’d like to at least see a video on that engine to really see where the leak was.
U have helped me alot with ur videos man the amount of stuff I have fixed is crazy I really didn't know my mower was all messed up in the valves very helpful videos keep up the good work
Thanks Rick! I know you get it! Not every project turns out perfect. I think TH-cam makes people think everything always works out. But I’m more than happy to get a little money back on this project!
After seeing this, I feel better about having just spent seven grand on a new mower! (I'm keeping one of my old ones to tinker with though!) - Cool vid!
There’s another option besides either sell or keep pouring money into it. Set it aside until you learn enough about these to be able to jump on it successfully and finish it off. I’ve done that with smaller machines. Also done it in my baking career as I learned more, to solve issues for which I had no answers at the time. What I’m saying is, you don’t have to throw in the towel - just do a timeout for another day. 🔧👍
Actually as a Small Engine Mechanic You are Very Wise but don't get to Deep enough is enough!!! as an Ex John Deere Apprentice Mechanic Please take My Advice & Don't Bury yourself Kyle
A brand new mower like that is very expensive. And after time the hydraulic's get the crap used out of them. Hydraulic replacement parts are gonna be pretty pricey also. I wouldn't touch one of those without being able to test the hydraulics first.
Summer is not over yet and lots of new zero turns up for sale or pay them off 😢 Plus lots of folks are going back to the riding mowers around here… Mowing is dropping in price and they want to get rid of the payments 😅
Allow me to tell you about my Money Pit experience. I responded to an ad for a 1999 Murray 46" GT with a 20 horse L-Head Briggs for $50. It was dirty but the body looked real good and it ran when parked. HAAHAHAHAHA What I bought. - $50 Mower - eBay Starter - Lasted 5 weeks - Bought another starter from a reputable dealer - Carb was bad. My nephew offered to have it fixed and I said okay. He found a mower guy with a garage shop at home. Got a call from the shop saying the carb was ready, so I picked it up and found out the guy was legit blind, so I paid $100 for a carb rebuilt by a blind man. As expected, I fired up the engine and the carb immediately began spewing fuel like a shower head. I took it back and the guy felt bad and gave me one he had on the shelf. It also leaked like a showerhead. - Bought another carb - new idlers - new belts - new blades - crank seal and gaskets - 3 new blade spindles - spark plugs - used gas tank to replace the one that was cracked. - new battery - Drive pulley on the transaxle to replace the one that was split - Foot grips AKA Stateboard tape - Ammeter - misc cleaners, wires, hoses, deck springs, filters, clamps, tire sealant, missing screws and bolts - heat shield to replace missing shield on engine I stopped updating my list when the parts reached $900. My head and stomach couldn't stand to see $1,000. Why didn't I stop and cut my losses? I went in too deep and too fast to stop. The body and trans were in good shape, and the engine was very strong and I just wouldn't give up on it. That was 16 years ago and it still starts on the first spin, uses less than a teacup of oil every 3 hours, and runs as well as any engine I own. I keep clean filters on it and use Rotella T6 15W40 synthetic diesel oil. Old mowers were much tough, but like all machines, they still need a little TLC now and then I ended up with a solid mower but I'll never buy a "ran when parked" anything again. You have my sympathies.
that deck tension bracket has a spot to put a 1/2" breaker bar at the end there in the square hole.
@@oriancunningham I really didn’t notice that until I was editing the footage. The ratchet strap worked great but o think you’re right, it’s designed for a breaker bar
I think there's a difference between giving up and knowing when to stop putting money into something. Good call
Thanks!!
I did the same on a same model but as a Cub Cadet. I am north of 40 mowers this year and it’s still October. You are right, know when to stop. 🙂
honesty and wisdom, traits of a Godly man
thanks for your videos and inspiration
Thank you!
Been waiting on this one! Love the more commercial grade mower videos since no one really does them
Thanks!
The square hole in the tension arm looks like a 1/2" drive breakover bar would fit pergectly.
Sometimes you just gotta cut your losses. Great vid and content as always!
Thank you!
Quitters never win
Something that eluded you on this was the deck idler movement. There was a square hole on an Ell portion of the idler bracket. That is for a 1/2" drive breaker bar. With a breaker bar in that hole, you can swing the idler to a position correct for installing the belt.
I didn’t see that at the time
i had the same mower never found the model number...but the Cub Cadet Tank M54 is the same mower just yellow and black, mine was a little slow also changed the hydro-oil it takes 20/50 oil and made a big difference on mine.
Things I learned today: there’s almost always a square hole in an idler tension arm to use a ratchet or breaker bar to detension in order to replace a belt; measure everything on the original engine in order to be able to source the correct replacement, including shaft diameter and length, distance to all 4 outer edges of the engine to confirm it’ll fit, measurements of PTO to confirm replacement will actually fit; diameters of shaft drive pulley and placement distance below engine; engine mounting hole locations in relation to shaft.
Also, determine actual issues with original engine before abandoning it. I would have performed a leakdown test and sprayed soapy water around the outside to locate suspected crack or checked valves for that leak. I’d like to at least see a video on that engine to really see where the leak was.
U have helped me alot with ur videos man the amount of stuff I have fixed is crazy I really didn't know my mower was all messed up in the valves very helpful videos keep up the good work
I enjoyed the video Kyle. I have been in the same boat a time or two ✌
Thanks Rick! I know you get it! Not every project turns out perfect. I think TH-cam makes people think everything always works out. But I’m more than happy to get a little money back on this project!
After seeing this, I feel better about having just spent seven grand on a new mower! (I'm keeping one of my old ones to tinker with though!) - Cool vid!
That's life my good man ❤
The square in the bracket for the mower deck is for a 1/2” ratchet so you can easily move the tensioner pulley.
Yeah I missed that. But I figured it out!
I have an older woods zero that has some similar characteristics :)
That pulley On the Deck The square hole.
It's for a 3/4 inch breaker breaker bar. 2.
Pull that back with
That is a strange thing to not be able to find the model number for this mower Kyle by the creek
You did ok
Bros got beef with kylebythecreek😭
Kyle you can adjust though leavers for your hands
There’s another option besides either sell or keep pouring money into it. Set it aside until you learn enough about these to be able to jump on it successfully and finish it off. I’ve done that with smaller machines. Also done it in my baking career as I learned more, to solve issues for which I had no answers at the time.
What I’m saying is, you don’t have to throw in the towel - just do a timeout for another day. 🔧👍
Definitely worth $1200
I've always been leary about buying junked zero turns but if they run, they could bring a good return!
Yeah, it probably wasn’t a good idea to buy this one because it didn’t even come with an engine
@@Kylebythecreek Yeah but now someone can finish it and you saved it, that's what counts.
that looks just like the Cub Cadet early models :)
z force or tank
Lesco was purchased by John Deere. You might want to talk to a Deere dealer for help. Parts tree carries Lesco parts.
That could make a good go cart engine.
🏎️💨
Actually as a Small Engine Mechanic You are Very Wise but don't get to Deep enough is enough!!! as an Ex John Deere Apprentice Mechanic Please take My Advice & Don't Bury yourself Kyle
He'll Never Listen. He Doesn't Believe In Listening. You Need To Explain It Better For Him
@@DefinitelyNotTomgreen I just don’t listen to you
Idler bracket is stamped out for a 1/2" breaker bar !!
Yup. I missed it.
On the lower left side of the lawnmower between the gas tank and the mowing deck is your model number location
The compression issue has to do with the head or timing. Do the valves close when the engine is at TDC? Great video. Thank you for sharing.
Let us no about the motor you built..That's cray cray not to have no conpression..Enjoyed..❤
That square hole you touch and mention , use a ratchet . Square hole means a square drive tool .
Model: 704573
Lesco commercial
A brand new mower like that is very expensive. And after time the hydraulic's get the crap used out of them. Hydraulic replacement parts are gonna be pretty pricey also. I wouldn't touch one of those without being able to test the hydraulics first.
Summer is not over yet and lots of new zero turns up for sale or pay them off 😢 Plus lots of folks are going back to the riding mowers around here… Mowing is dropping in price and they want to get rid of the payments 😅
I was saying to Myself Turn the Pulley Around???
5" pulley, change filter and fluid :)
Sold it
How did you determine the mfg is LESCO ? I can't find any company by that name that manufactures mowers. 😮
Cuz he’s built different
I finally found the sticker on the rear of the machine
Looks like the belt and pto widths aren't the same. 😮
Not supposed to crank unless the parking brake is on
That square hole is for a ratchet or breaker bar, it would have been easier...
What I can't figure out with the viper zero turn is why could one not hook up the key off position to the wires you used to kill it?
It killed the engine no matter the position of the key. I’m not sure what was going on there
Allow me to tell you about my Money Pit experience.
I responded to an ad for a 1999 Murray 46" GT with a 20 horse L-Head Briggs for $50. It was dirty but the body looked real good and it ran when parked. HAAHAHAHAHA
What I bought.
- $50 Mower
- eBay Starter - Lasted 5 weeks
- Bought another starter from a reputable dealer
- Carb was bad. My nephew offered to have it fixed and I said okay. He found a mower guy with a garage shop at home. Got a call from the shop saying the carb was ready, so I picked it up and found out the guy was legit blind, so I paid $100 for a carb rebuilt by a blind man. As expected, I fired up the engine and the carb immediately began spewing fuel like a shower head. I took it back and the guy felt bad and gave me one he had on the shelf. It also leaked like a showerhead.
- Bought another carb
- new idlers
- new belts
- new blades
- crank seal and gaskets
- 3 new blade spindles
- spark plugs
- used gas tank to replace the one that was cracked.
- new battery
- Drive pulley on the transaxle to replace the one that was split
- Foot grips AKA Stateboard tape
- Ammeter
- misc cleaners, wires, hoses, deck springs, filters, clamps, tire sealant, missing screws and bolts
- heat shield to replace missing shield on engine
I stopped updating my list when the parts reached $900. My head and stomach couldn't stand to see $1,000. Why didn't I stop and cut my losses? I went in too deep and too fast to stop. The body and trans were in good shape, and the engine was very strong and I just wouldn't give up on it.
That was 16 years ago and it still starts on the first spin, uses less than a teacup of oil every 3 hours, and runs as well as any engine I own. I keep clean filters on it and use Rotella T6 15W40 synthetic diesel oil. Old mowers were much tough, but like all machines, they still need a little TLC now and then
I ended up with a solid mower but I'll never buy a "ran when parked" anything again.
You have my sympathies.
@@Slugg-O sometimes you do get lucky. But other times you end up with a basket case!
This comment is longer than half of my college essays
@@Turbopee27 You should see what I left out
@@Slugg-O okay blud
You should have bored it out and put a turbo on it. Wasted opportunity
It’s okay to be wrong 🫶🏻
This viper is way too loud.
Let us no about the motor you built..That's cray cray not to have no conpression..Enjoyed..❤
Let us no about the motor you built..That's cray cray not to have no conpression..Enjoyed..❤
BLOWN Zero Turn Engine: Helping a Trail Life troop earn a Small Engine Badge
th-cam.com/video/oK-M_kpKb0c/w-d-xo.html
The craycrayZest thing is he only has one hand