I swap between two different sets of wheels and adjust my derailleur slightly for each set. Never thought of using a spacer - will see if that stops needing to adjust between the two wheels. Thanks GCN!
Great video!!! To be honest, I didn't know that there was enough thread on a cassette lock to be able to put a spacer behind the stack. Thank you VERY much for the info!!! You just might have saved my sanity!!!! I just got a new bike (new Dura Ace 12 speed) so I have brand new chain, and 2 brand new cassettes. This issue has been plaguing me for weeks...
I got a Zwift Hub about a month ago. Had trouble with this. Turns out the Sunrace cassette was a couple mm wider than the Shimano on my bike. Both 10 speed cassettes. Bike shop couldn't get it to line up properly. So I purchased a matching cassette and a few different sizes of spacers. Turns out a combo of 1.8 and 2mm spacer lines up well. Making sure the cassette is the right tightness along with the nut on the end makes a slight difference too. Took some trial and error on different spacer combos along with switching back and forth indexing to get it to line up right. Be careful because its possible to fit just enough spacers that the chain can rub or be very close to the frame as well. The space between the chain and seat stay is almost identical on my correct setup.
My 20 year old road bike has a Campy Centaur 10 speed drivetrain, but the rear wheel has a Shimano freehub (I got the wheelset at a great price but it only came with Shimano). I initially used an American Classic "conversion" cassette that was Shimano-splined but Campy-spaced that worked perfectly, but when it was time to replace it due to wear the price had gone up quite a bit so I found a way to make a standard Shimano Ultegra cassette with the cog range I wanted (12-25) work with the Campy drivetrain using 4 2.5mm spacers between the 3rd smallest and 4th biggest cogs. Shifting was quick and smooth with no grinding or rubbing and a nearly silent drivetrain after a good cleaning and lubing (I've always used Dumont yellow with great results). I just ordered a Wahoo Core trainer and will be using an unused 12-23 Ultegra cassette that I bought a few years ago on it, with a new chain of course, using this modified spacing. When spring comes and I'm ready to ride outdoors again I'll either take it off the trainer and install it on the wheel, or more likely buy another one and install it on the wheel so I can keep using the trainer without having the move the cassette between the two all the time. Or I might just swap the cassette currently on the bike with it (but it's old and skips so probably not). This may or may not work with drivetrains that use a different number of cogs but I don't see why not so long as you got the spacing almost exactly right to the mm or less and/or were willing to put up with a minute amount of misalalignment and the occasional need to trim the driveline.
Thanks for the video! Worked like a charm for me on Token EC24AD wheels and Shimano Deore M5100 11-42T casette with Deore RD-5100 mech. When I put the casette flush on, without spacers, my derailleuer wouldn't shift into highest 2 gears (biggest 2 cogs). At first I thought that I might have had a faulty mech but after installing a 2mm spacer on the hub before the casette, after sine tweaking mech shifted gears perfectly. Worth noting that my mech worked perfectly without the spacer, just wouldn't shift into highest 2 gears.
For a couple of hundred quid you can buy a new bike in Decathlon with a Shimano 105 Group Set and just keep it as a dedicated bike for the trainer, or buy a relatively decent second hand bike. Doesn’t matter how heavy the bike weighs, that way you don’t have to keep changing your bike wheel etc and its always ready for a ride indoors.
I've got a 10spd bike which shifts perfectly on the bike wheel and erratically on the trainer. I found the easiest way to fix my issue is to *not* install the supplied spacer for 11spd cassette bodies, so essentially I did manage to move the cassette the other way. Works like a charm now.
I'm having the same issue. I have a 10-cassette Shimano HG on my Saris H3, which has an 11-speed hub. The problem lies with the smallest cog as it keeps clicking and struggling. What solution did you find for this?
@@gcntech I don‘t think they have these spacers. All LBS have changed their business model to selling 5000€ e-bikes to elderly people. Would be nice if Shimano would tell how much 1 Step offset in the DI2 settings is in order to find the right spacer.
My experience has been anything from 6-9 speed you do have more leeway with not having to be precise. Once you get to 10-12 speed the tolerances are just so tight hence the conspiracy why 105 went to electronic because cables aren’t going to be precise enough for that many gears.
It took me getting my smart trainer to realize that the drivetrain on my road bike was completely worn out, including cassette and chain. It would also be ideal if the cassette type on your trainer is an exact match to the one on your road bike for the best fit.
100%. Need the same gear range, as that will affect chain length. But having old chain and cassette on your road bike, then installing brand new cassette on the trainer... the chain may likely have stretched and won't fit the new cassette. I had that exact issue awhile back.
Thanks for the video! Last week I fitted my 10 speed 105 cassette in my Zwifthub. I used the provided spacer and added the Shimano one, but even with a tight secured lockring, the cassette can wiggle a bit. Do I add more spacers? Or is there another solution to this. It does shift properly..
What if the skipping happens when shifting to easier gears up the cassette, but right in the middle of the cassette and not just at the largest cog? That's my issue. Would I space out the trainer, or the bike? Using my bike with mechanical 105 11-speed on Zwift Hub.
Have similar issues. My problem is, that I feel that I can't get into the smallest cog, from big chain ring, without it sounding like im cross-xhaining, but from the 3rd smallest up, everything is fine on my trainer. But without a 1mm spacer, the whole cassette is loose on the hub. But when I switch the cassette back onto the bike, its perfectly fine. Even bought a new identical cassette, (10spd shimano, 11 - 32), fitted it onto both, with same results. Fine on wheel, rubbing/grinding on trainer. Any clues as to what else I could do?
Great vid. Can I use the same spacers for the indoor trainer on an my outdoor casette? (I have that case where the smallest sprocket is the troublemaker)
Considering I won't swap from HT to wheel because my bike will stay all the time on HT, I can simply set my dérailleur to the HT without purchasing any spacer. Am I right ? The spacers are just to avoid setting from HT to normal wheel every time.
I´ve just got a 11-42T for my kickr (same 11-42T on the bike, different brand) and i have an issue on the highest gear as you mentioned. by adding a spacer on the bike and re-indexing, wont bring a problem when back to the kickr? or the indexing is only between the gears and wont be impacted by the changes? cheers
I am brand new to the world of direct drive trainers. I just got an Elite Suito and after a little struggling I have my 2013 Felt Z95 (that uses a Shimano Sora 9 gear cassette) bike correctly attached to the 11 gear cassette Elite Suito. I haven't plugged it in yet but it appears the derailleur and the cassette aren't meshing properly just by spinning the pedals backwards. The chain is getting out of whack on the smallest gear. I have 2 spacers that came with the Elite but the instruction manual (which isn't the greatest in the world!) says I should need to use 2 spacers with a 9 speed cassette, 1 with a 10 speed cassette and none with an 11 speed cassette like I have. Maybe a dirty cassette on my bike and/or a stretched chain? Any suggestions? Thank you!
You'll need to change the 11-speed cassette on the trainer to a 9-speed one (same as on your bike) and use the spacers on the inside to cover the gap. Apologies if you have already done this and I haven't followed it correctly!
I repurposed a number of spare/2nd hand (ebay) parts to build most of a bike specifically for use on the trainer. It means I can thrash away indoors without feeling like I'm compromising my outdoor steed. Ensuring I found parts with the same number of gears and that permitted me to dial in current bike fit settings was the worst part.
Please May I ask a question regarding cleaning my tyres. After washing, when I spin the wheel, I can hear water still in the rim. I obviously leave it with the drain hole at the bottom, but all the water doesn’t come out 🤷♂️
Possibly a stupid question but how does this work with a SRAM XDR freehub body where the cassette 'screws on'. Presumably spacing would mean more/less thread bite or similar?
I find my new zwift hub has some odd transmission clunks. I have a newer chain, have done microadjustment (di2), but the cassette that comes with hub does not have hyper-glide, so is inherently more noisy then my road wheel ?
What I take from this video is: A) From the tons of question from viewers GCN received the problem is kind of common B) If it is common issue, i guess WAHOO knows about this issue about its product C) WAHOO knows it *but does not provide spacers included on its +700€ product* *Aftermath: I would feel scammed if I see myself in this situation after spending that amount of money.*
I’ve just tried adding a ten speed campy hub and camp Centura sprocket but for some reason the sprocket doesn’t fit to the hub. Anyone have any tips or ideas when it comes to campagnolo?
I’m thinking about getting an indoor trainer. My question is, I have a gravel bike with a Grx 1x set up (11-42). Can I use the 11-28 cassette that comes with it, or do I need to swap mine over every time? Thanks
You probably can, although not recommended. First the chain length for 11-28 should be much smaller than 11-42, so you'll need to be much more aware of your gears, the rear derailleur will be less stretched. Second, probably will have some issues with indexing, gear change should be a bit more difficult. In summary, ideally use the same cassette, or the closer you can. But in your position, I'd probably try the included 11-28 first and see how it goes, then buy a bigger one if really necessary.
Its worth bearing in mind that on an indoor trainer excess weight is irrelevant (because you are are not actually moving anything) and the cassette will not be exposed to dirt, mud etc. that can effect shifting more on a lower quality cassette. So many people pick up super cheap heavy steel cassettes to drop on the turbo, like a Zitto, SUNSHINE, Z-Race, GOLDIX, VG-Sports, BUCKLOS, BALONY (yes that last one is real) as far as I can tell all come out the same factory in china, Direct from Ali-Ex I can get an 11-42 for about £20/$25
I'm running the same setup and having indexing issues so thinking the next port of call is a new cassette or chain which is annoying after this initial outlay. I'm thinking of getting like for like and use the old one on the turbo which still appears to be in good condition.
Yes you can, but the derailleur pulley likely need to be repositioned closer to the 28 tooth cog on the trainer or the shifting will be balky. That's done by adjusting the B-tension screw. I do this with my 1x 10-42T mountain bike when installing it on the 11-28T trainer. Note, you'll need to put the B-tension setting back when you put the original wheel back on or the pulley will grind against the larger cassette gears.
Campagnolo spacers are different than Shimano/SRAM. When you have legacy gearing, how do you space for 9 or 10 speeds. Can you covert the new cassette or do you have to find a new similar brand and speed cassette?
To use a Campy cassette on a Shimano/SRAM freehub you can either swap the hub for a Campy one, use a "conversion" cassette (American Classic used to make one), or use a Shimano/SRAM cassette and replace the spacers with ones that bring everything in line.
Why not just measure the distance between the end of the axle and the smallest sprocket on both the bike wheel and the turbo trainer with a depth micrometer or a digital caliper? The one with the smallest dimension can be left and the difference between the 2 sizes will be the amount to adjust it by on the one with largest dimension. If the inside of frame dropout touches the end of the axle on both the road wheel and the turbo trainer this will be a common datum, unless I am missing something🤔
That could work in some instances but the position of the cassette itself is not always the reason for poor shifting its just the solution. Slight differences in tooth profiles between brands or groupset tiers, or just from one cassette being more worn than the other can cause the issue too, some drop down easy but need more encouragement to go up, some go up easy but don't want to drop down. For example my old road bike had an ULTEGRA 11-28, and the turbo had a 105 11-28. I had to shim out the 105/turbo 0.5mm because the bike wouldn't shift up into the largest cog, I damaged my ULTEGRA cassette when it was still quite new (don't ask🤦♂) I temporarily put the 105 cassette (without the spacer) on the bike while waiting for the part (middle of the parts shortage) and I had to adjust the gears because it would not shift into the biggest cog just like on the turbo, when I put the new ULTEGRA cassette on the bike I did not need to adjust anything and the 105/turbo did not need the spacer anymore 🤷♂.
#gcntechclinic Howdy wonderful tech clinic humans. I am lucky enough to have in my possession a 12 speed 11-34 Ultegra cassette. It’s been on the bike for 1400miles or so and I have come to take it off to give it a deep clean but it’s stuck tight to the hub. Any suggestions as to how to get it off the hub without bending anything. (It was installed with a little grease to hopefully stop this from happening but that’s clearly not gone so well). Thanks!
Hi guys, I've always had my 10 speed bike on my wahoo kickr with quick release . Over the winter, I decided to put my 11 speed bike with thru axle on the kickr but when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side, the cassette doesn't spin freely . Any help or advice would be very much appreciated 🙏
I've done this exact thing, had no issues. So, some questions: 1. You bought an 11-speed cassette and installed on the Wahoo? It won't work with the 10-speed on on there. 2. Used the cassette spacers in the same order they were in the box? 3. If I recall correctly, the thru axle adapters are reversible (both sides) in order to support two different lengths of thru axles. Make sure you know the length of your axle, and check the diagram to make sure you installed it correctly. That's all I can think of for now, will check back later to see your response.
@Ron's Kayaking and Fishing going to leave it a day or two it's getting on my tits . Yeah the cassette is a 11 speed, it's when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side when the cassette doesn't spin backwards. Without it, the cassette spins fine. Just making sure did you greese the adapter that fits the cassette side? It slides in between the cassette and freehub?
@@darrenthomas9928 Sorry Darren, not to be too redundant, but I feel like Ron is asking you if you have the thru axle adapter turned the correct direction, as it's a 2 way adapter (made for 2 different size of thru axle) and it fits both ways. Plus, I use the 142x12mm thru axle adapter with my gravel bike and have never needed to use grease. Hope that helps!
@Bateria YVR the thru axle on the cassette side can only go one way the one on the none drive side. Yes, it is the right way . The cassette stops spinning freely when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side . It sits in between cassettes, but when you do the cassette stops spinning and tries to push the adapter out . Wish I could send a video
I really don't want to adjust the bike to accommodate the trainer. I just adjusted the indexing to the max on my Zwift Hub and it's still not locating on the smallest cog correctly. Other posts suggest new chain, same cassette, barrel adjustment....so annoying it just doesn't work out of the box
Yes, on road hubs a 1.85 mm spacer required, super easy to find as its the same for putting MTB cassettes on road bikes. On MTB hubs no spacer required.
Kind of, the diameter is the same but the splines at the base are different, you can get spacers that have no "teeth" on the inside they are sometimes sold as BB spacers (as they are about the same size as a BSA thread and can be used for that purpose too). There is no real reason that I know of that a spacer in that position needs to engage with the splines so it should work fine.
According to the instructions on the Wahoo website, you shouldn't use the included spacer with the XDR freehub. I think the spacer is used if putting a mountain bike on the Kickr. That said, my road bike was difficult to index on the Kickr Core (using the correct cassette), but eventually I had success.
Heh, I've literally just sent a spacer back for a refund after an ebay chancer didn't send me the wheels I bought, almost certainly because his auction didn't fetch as much as he was expecting.
All these spacings between gear systems are a nightmare. I was running Sora on my DT swiss 1800 wheels which has an 11 speed ROAD hub with a 1.85mm spacer... all ok. I bought an 11 speed 105 groupo from CRC and also a 11-34 105 cassette from Merlin. This 11 speed cassette still needs the 1.85mm spacer on the 11 speed ROAD hub, and therefore somehow must be MTB spacing....!? On my new V5 KIckr neither that (new) Sora cassette or the Sram 10 speed on my other bike will go on to the KIckr "nicely" with their supplied 1.85mm spacer, it's rather uncomfortable getting the lockring tightened for fear of it stripping the threads and destroying the freehub...and both bikes the indexing is out but I suspect a 1.0mm spacer is needed as the cassette is too far out...but really the issue then is the Wahoo freehub being machined somewhere between an 8-10 speed and an 11...
LOL, the "105" (huge air quotes) 11-34 cassette is just a HG700 with 105 printed on the lock-ring and is indeed a MTB cassette. In fact in the small print on Merlins website it states: The 11-34 is HG700 (Same as CS-R7000). This is not just Shimano being cheap for no reason a 34 cassette on an O.L.D. (130 mm) road spaced frame can have difficulty clearing the spokes on some wheels without a spacer, so it makes sense for them to do it this way.
@@chris1275cc Thanks for that info.... I'm working on losing enough weight and getting fitter so hopefully can run the SS mech and 11-30 cassette (I bought the GS for 11-32/34) and avoid being shamed by real roadies for my "dinner plate" granny gear lol
yeah i have that cassette on all my road bikes and trainer, and you have to use the spacer as the back of it is concaved, and like said can be used for MTB
@@monetaryjack1705 I lost 70 Kg in 2 years mostly through cycling I had a 11-40 in the beginning, nothing to be ashamed of its mostly just banter. If you don't know of her already look up Katie Kookaburra on YT, she was a former "fatty" too, she runs a bigger cassette and sometimes even a GRX sub-compact, anyone who tries to shame her for it soon gets a hard lesson 🤣. BTW Don't bother swapping the GS for a SS the GS will work better than fine. The SS is very limiting and IMO does not shift a 30 as well, a lot of people run a GS with a smaller cassette even us "real roadies" LOL
@@chris1275cc It's a lot to do with the terrain also, Cairngorms in the Scottish Highlands, I'd happily run a 30/46 with 11/34 if 105 was an option... Folk that live in flat areas can get away with 11-25/28 (and 36/52) and get the benefit of single tooth changes through most of the cassette!!!
Why is there a problem at all? Isn't there a standard? 11speed hubs no spacers. 10 speed -- depending on cassette 1.85 for sure and 1 mm, maybe depending on construction of 10 speed up.
Spacers did not work for me....the cassette always wobbled....I had to use a spare cassette sprocket which is larger in diameter and gives better support to the back of the cassette after removing it's rivets. Anyone else have the same problem?
sometimes the spacer is up against the tiny rivets that hold the cassette together, causing the wobble, just grind / file down the heads so they are flush with the big cog and it should work fine. The cassette might fall apart when you remove it but not whilst its properly installed on the hub.
@@andywalford7544 Thankyou, yes I removed the rivets in the end although since the spacers are the same shape as the freehub it shouldn't be a problem...only when fitting a sprocket instead...
Get a trainer that takes a 130 mm O.L.D. spaced frame (most do but you might have to buy axle adapters separately). An 8 speed Shimano HG/HG compatible cassette will work fine (I know a lot of vintage campy guys like Miche cassettes when forced to use HG free-hubs) you will need a 1.85 mm spacer if the turbo has an 11 speed hub, or you could buy a pack of spacers and adjust by trial and error as in this video. The turbo won't care about anything else (number of chain-rings, etc.).
@@gcntech i have been one of them lucky people that my bike and trainer is the same, i use the same cassette on both, and can just put the bike on the trainer with no issue
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
What are your top tips in setting up a new turbo trainer? ⚙
Have some tissues handy, Crying may or may not be involved
Thank you for this info. Sounds much easy rather than re-indexing every time when in and out of indoor trainer.
Literally something i just had to deal with, at 4am, getting ready for stage 1 of TDZ. thank you ollie
Shimmed my centrelock rotors too between wheelsets. 👍🏻
Exactly! Great information for people using several non-identical wheelsets.
I swap between two different sets of wheels and adjust my derailleur slightly for each set. Never thought of using a spacer - will see if that stops needing to adjust between the two wheels. Thanks GCN!
Great video!!! To be honest, I didn't know that there was enough thread on a cassette lock to be able to put a spacer behind the stack. Thank you VERY much for the info!!! You just might have saved my sanity!!!! I just got a new bike (new Dura Ace 12 speed) so I have brand new chain, and 2 brand new cassettes. This issue has been plaguing me for weeks...
Great info Oli… I have been having this exact issue..now I can solve the problem 👍🏻👍🏻
That's what we like to hear 🙌
I got a Zwift Hub about a month ago. Had trouble with this. Turns out the Sunrace cassette was a couple mm wider than the Shimano on my bike. Both 10 speed cassettes. Bike shop couldn't get it to line up properly. So I purchased a matching cassette and a few different sizes of spacers. Turns out a combo of 1.8 and 2mm spacer lines up well. Making sure the cassette is the right tightness along with the nut on the end makes a slight difference too. Took some trial and error on different spacer combos along with switching back and forth indexing to get it to line up right. Be careful because its possible to fit just enough spacers that the chain can rub or be very close to the frame as well. The space between the chain and seat stay is almost identical on my correct setup.
My 20 year old road bike has a Campy Centaur 10 speed drivetrain, but the rear wheel has a Shimano freehub (I got the wheelset at a great price but it only came with Shimano). I initially used an American Classic "conversion" cassette that was Shimano-splined but Campy-spaced that worked perfectly, but when it was time to replace it due to wear the price had gone up quite a bit so I found a way to make a standard Shimano Ultegra cassette with the cog range I wanted (12-25) work with the Campy drivetrain using 4 2.5mm spacers between the 3rd smallest and 4th biggest cogs. Shifting was quick and smooth with no grinding or rubbing and a nearly silent drivetrain after a good cleaning and lubing (I've always used Dumont yellow with great results).
I just ordered a Wahoo Core trainer and will be using an unused 12-23 Ultegra cassette that I bought a few years ago on it, with a new chain of course, using this modified spacing. When spring comes and I'm ready to ride outdoors again I'll either take it off the trainer and install it on the wheel, or more likely buy another one and install it on the wheel so I can keep using the trainer without having the move the cassette between the two all the time. Or I might just swap the cassette currently on the bike with it (but it's old and skips so probably not).
This may or may not work with drivetrains that use a different number of cogs but I don't see why not so long as you got the spacing almost exactly right to the mm or less and/or were willing to put up with a minute amount of misalalignment and the occasional need to trim the driveline.
Brilliantly explained! I didn't get it before I saw this video.
Thanks for the video!
Worked like a charm for me on Token EC24AD wheels and Shimano Deore M5100 11-42T casette with Deore RD-5100 mech. When I put the casette flush on, without spacers, my derailleuer wouldn't shift into highest 2 gears (biggest 2 cogs). At first I thought that I might have had a faulty mech but after installing a 2mm spacer on the hub before the casette, after sine tweaking mech shifted gears perfectly.
Worth noting that my mech worked perfectly without the spacer, just wouldn't shift into highest 2 gears.
Excellent communication, very good!!! Its that great science background !
Thanks Ollie and crew...I've not got one of these ...
do you fancy one? 👀
@@gcntech I do … but. Budgetary constraints don’t allow for it I have the older style of trainer , noisy and not realistic but still work…. sort of
For a couple of hundred quid you can buy a new bike in Decathlon with a Shimano 105 Group Set and just keep it as a dedicated bike for the trainer, or buy a relatively decent second hand bike. Doesn’t matter how heavy the bike weighs, that way you don’t have to keep changing your bike wheel etc and its always ready for a ride indoors.
there closer to £1000 for a 105
My wife will love this suggestion. N+1
I've got a 10spd bike which shifts perfectly on the bike wheel and erratically on the trainer. I found the easiest way to fix my issue is to *not* install the supplied spacer for 11spd cassette bodies, so essentially I did manage to move the cassette the other way. Works like a charm now.
I'm having the same issue. I have a 10-cassette Shimano HG on my Saris H3, which has an 11-speed hub. The problem lies with the smallest cog as it keeps clicking and struggling. What solution did you find for this?
Super useful. I have exactly that problem since I updated to 12s. Everything is brand new and it still rattles.
Maybe it's time to visit your local bike shop? 👀
@@gcntech I don‘t think they have these spacers. All LBS have changed their business model to selling 5000€ e-bikes to elderly people. Would be nice if Shimano would tell how much 1 Step offset in the DI2 settings is in order to find the right spacer.
Thank you! Been having this exact issue
Thanks Ollie!
I like the blue theme! I never did figure out the "inboard" term. You would think it to be outboard.
Thank you for this info!!
That makes sense! I solved this with the n+1 method 🤣
My experience has been anything from 6-9 speed you do have more leeway with not having to be precise. Once you get to 10-12 speed the tolerances are just so tight hence the conspiracy why 105 went to electronic because cables aren’t going to be precise enough for that many gears.
In MTB they work as they should, so I don't think that's the issue.
It took me getting my smart trainer to realize that the drivetrain on my road bike was completely worn out, including cassette and chain. It would also be ideal if the cassette type on your trainer is an exact match to the one on your road bike for the best fit.
100%. Need the same gear range, as that will affect chain length. But having old chain and cassette on your road bike, then installing brand new cassette on the trainer... the chain may likely have stretched and won't fit the new cassette. I had that exact issue awhile back.
Thanks for the video!
Last week I fitted my 10 speed 105 cassette in my Zwifthub. I used the provided spacer and added the Shimano one, but even with a tight secured lockring, the cassette can wiggle a bit. Do I add more spacers? Or is there another solution to this.
It does shift properly..
Cassette is tightened to proper tightness along with the silver nut on the end? If not make sure those are both snug. I have a Zwift hub myself
What if the skipping happens when shifting to easier gears up the cassette, but right in the middle of the cassette and not just at the largest cog? That's my issue. Would I space out the trainer, or the bike? Using my bike with mechanical 105 11-speed on Zwift Hub.
Me too, hoping for a fix
Have similar issues. My problem is, that I feel that I can't get into the smallest cog, from big chain ring, without it sounding like im cross-xhaining, but from the 3rd smallest up, everything is fine on my trainer. But without a 1mm spacer, the whole cassette is loose on the hub.
But when I switch the cassette back onto the bike, its perfectly fine.
Even bought a new identical cassette, (10spd shimano, 11 - 32), fitted it onto both, with same results. Fine on wheel, rubbing/grinding on trainer. Any clues as to what else I could do?
Same issue for me with 10spd shimano
Great vid. Can I use the same spacers for the indoor trainer on an my outdoor casette? (I have that case where the smallest sprocket is the troublemaker)
Considering I won't swap from HT to wheel because my bike will stay all the time on HT, I can simply set my dérailleur to the HT without purchasing any spacer. Am I right ?
The spacers are just to avoid setting from HT to normal wheel every time.
I´ve just got a 11-42T for my kickr (same 11-42T on the bike, different brand) and i have an issue on the highest gear as you mentioned. by adding a spacer on the bike and re-indexing, wont bring a problem when back to the kickr? or the indexing is only between the gears and wont be impacted by the changes? cheers
I am brand new to the world of direct drive trainers. I just got an Elite Suito and after a little struggling I have my 2013 Felt Z95 (that uses a Shimano Sora 9 gear cassette) bike correctly attached to the 11 gear cassette Elite Suito. I haven't plugged it in yet but it appears the derailleur and the cassette aren't meshing properly just by spinning the pedals backwards. The chain is getting out of whack on the smallest gear. I have 2 spacers that came with the Elite but the instruction manual (which isn't the greatest in the world!) says I should need to use 2 spacers with a 9 speed cassette, 1 with a 10 speed cassette and none with an 11 speed cassette like I have. Maybe a dirty cassette on my bike and/or a stretched chain? Any suggestions? Thank you!
You'll need to change the 11-speed cassette on the trainer to a 9-speed one (same as on your bike) and use the spacers on the inside to cover the gap. Apologies if you have already done this and I haven't followed it correctly!
I repurposed a number of spare/2nd hand (ebay) parts to build most of a bike specifically for use on the trainer. It means I can thrash away indoors without feeling like I'm compromising my outdoor steed.
Ensuring I found parts with the same number of gears and that permitted me to dial in current bike fit settings was the worst part.
Please May I ask a question regarding cleaning my tyres.
After washing, when I spin the wheel, I can hear water still in the rim. I obviously leave it with the drain hole at the bottom, but all the water doesn’t come out 🤷♂️
Great video having the same problem new wiel cant ride the new wiels yet...
Thank you!
Possibly a stupid question but how does this work with a SRAM XDR freehub body where the cassette 'screws on'. Presumably spacing would mean more/less thread bite or similar?
I find my new zwift hub has some odd transmission clunks. I have a newer chain, have done microadjustment (di2), but the cassette that comes with hub does not have hyper-glide, so is inherently more noisy then my road wheel ?
It lists as hyperglide on the website
What I take from this video is:
A) From the tons of question from viewers GCN received the problem is kind of common
B) If it is common issue, i guess WAHOO knows about this issue about its product
C) WAHOO knows it *but does not provide spacers included on its +700€ product*
*Aftermath: I would feel scammed if I see myself in this situation after spending that amount of money.*
@@evisule84 Watch the video, "genius"...
I’ve just tried adding a ten speed campy hub and camp Centura sprocket but for some reason the sprocket doesn’t fit to the hub. Anyone have any tips or ideas when it comes to campagnolo?
could this work in Shimano m5100 cassette?deore sprocket are hitting my spokes and got damage
I’m thinking about getting an indoor trainer. My question is, I have a gravel bike with a Grx 1x set up (11-42). Can I use the 11-28 cassette that comes with it, or do I need to swap mine over every time? Thanks
You probably can, although not recommended. First the chain length for 11-28 should be much smaller than 11-42, so you'll need to be much more aware of your gears, the rear derailleur will be less stretched. Second, probably will have some issues with indexing, gear change should be a bit more difficult. In summary, ideally use the same cassette, or the closer you can. But in your position, I'd probably try the included 11-28 first and see how it goes, then buy a bigger one if really necessary.
@@stefanohbellote9948 thank you
Its worth bearing in mind that on an indoor trainer excess weight is irrelevant (because you are are not actually moving anything) and the cassette will not be exposed to dirt, mud etc. that can effect shifting more on a lower quality cassette. So many people pick up super cheap heavy steel cassettes to drop on the turbo, like a Zitto, SUNSHINE, Z-Race, GOLDIX, VG-Sports, BUCKLOS, BALONY (yes that last one is real) as far as I can tell all come out the same factory in china, Direct from Ali-Ex I can get an 11-42 for about £20/$25
I'm running the same setup and having indexing issues so thinking the next port of call is a new cassette or chain which is annoying after this initial outlay.
I'm thinking of getting like for like and use the old one on the turbo which still appears to be in good condition.
Yes you can, but the derailleur pulley likely need to be repositioned closer to the 28 tooth cog on the trainer or the shifting will be balky. That's done by adjusting the B-tension screw. I do this with my 1x 10-42T mountain bike when installing it on the 11-28T trainer. Note, you'll need to put the B-tension setting back when you put the original wheel back on or the pulley will grind against the larger cassette gears.
Campagnolo spacers are different than Shimano/SRAM. When you have legacy gearing, how do you space for 9 or 10 speeds.
Can you covert the new cassette or do you have to find a new similar brand and speed cassette?
To use a Campy cassette on a Shimano/SRAM freehub you can either swap the hub for a Campy one, use a "conversion" cassette (American Classic used to make one), or use a Shimano/SRAM cassette and replace the spacers with ones that bring everything in line.
What’s the thickness of the spacers on a standard Shimano cassette? I save an old cassette for emergencies.
Why not just measure the distance between the end of the axle and the smallest sprocket on both the bike wheel and the turbo trainer with a depth micrometer or a digital caliper? The one with the smallest dimension can be left and the difference between the 2 sizes will be the amount to adjust it by on the one with largest dimension.
If the inside of frame dropout touches the end of the axle on both the road wheel and the turbo trainer this will be a common datum, unless I am missing something🤔
That could work in some instances but the position of the cassette itself is not always the reason for poor shifting its just the solution. Slight differences in tooth profiles between brands or groupset tiers, or just from one cassette being more worn than the other can cause the issue too, some drop down easy but need more encouragement to go up, some go up easy but don't want to drop down. For example my old road bike had an ULTEGRA 11-28, and the turbo had a 105 11-28. I had to shim out the 105/turbo 0.5mm because the bike wouldn't shift up into the largest cog, I damaged my ULTEGRA cassette when it was still quite new (don't ask🤦♂) I temporarily put the 105 cassette (without the spacer) on the bike while waiting for the part (middle of the parts shortage) and I had to adjust the gears because it would not shift into the biggest cog just like on the turbo, when I put the new ULTEGRA cassette on the bike I did not need to adjust anything and the 105/turbo did not need the spacer anymore 🤷♂.
#gcntechclinic Howdy wonderful tech clinic humans. I am lucky enough to have in my possession a 12 speed 11-34 Ultegra cassette. It’s been on the bike for 1400miles or so and I have come to take it off to give it a deep clean but it’s stuck tight to the hub. Any suggestions as to how to get it off the hub without bending anything. (It was installed with a little grease to hopefully stop this from happening but that’s clearly not gone so well). Thanks!
Hi guys, I've always had my 10 speed bike on my wahoo kickr with quick release . Over the winter, I decided to put my 11 speed bike with thru axle on the kickr but when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side, the cassette doesn't spin freely . Any help or advice would be very much appreciated 🙏
I've done this exact thing, had no issues. So, some questions:
1. You bought an 11-speed cassette and installed on the Wahoo? It won't work with the 10-speed on on there.
2. Used the cassette spacers in the same order they were in the box?
3. If I recall correctly, the thru axle adapters are reversible (both sides) in order to support two different lengths of thru axles. Make sure you know the length of your axle, and check the diagram to make sure you installed it correctly.
That's all I can think of for now, will check back later to see your response.
@Ron's Kayaking and Fishing only way I've it working is by only tighten the cassette by finger tight
@Ron's Kayaking and Fishing going to leave it a day or two it's getting on my tits . Yeah the cassette is a 11 speed, it's when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side when the cassette doesn't spin backwards. Without it, the cassette spins fine. Just making sure did you greese the adapter that fits the cassette side? It slides in between the cassette and freehub?
@@darrenthomas9928 Sorry Darren, not to be too redundant, but I feel like Ron is asking you if you have the thru axle adapter turned the correct direction, as it's a 2 way adapter (made for 2 different size of thru axle) and it fits both ways. Plus, I use the 142x12mm thru axle adapter with my gravel bike and have never needed to use grease.
Hope that helps!
@Bateria YVR the thru axle on the cassette side can only go one way the one on the none drive side. Yes, it is the right way . The cassette stops spinning freely when I put the thru axle adapter on the cassette side . It sits in between cassettes, but when you do the cassette stops spinning and tries to push the adapter out . Wish I could send a video
I really don't want to adjust the bike to accommodate the trainer. I just adjusted the indexing to the max on my Zwift Hub and it's still not locating on the smallest cog correctly.
Other posts suggest new chain, same cassette, barrel adjustment....so annoying it just doesn't work out of the box
Hi, can you put an 8 speed cassette on an 11 speed freehub body ?? ,
many thanks
Yes, on road hubs a 1.85 mm spacer required, super easy to find as its the same for putting MTB cassettes on road bikes. On MTB hubs no spacer required.
Link to the spacer set?
Is there a way to measure the cassette offset instead of trying different spacers?
With a decent caliper gauge, probably. Or even a precise ruler.
Does a Rival/XDR freehub require a specific spacer?
Kind of, the diameter is the same but the splines at the base are different, you can get spacers that have no "teeth" on the inside they are sometimes sold as BB spacers (as they are about the same size as a BSA thread and can be used for that purpose too). There is no real reason that I know of that a spacer in that position needs to engage with the splines so it should work fine.
According to the instructions on the Wahoo website, you shouldn't use the included spacer with the XDR freehub. I think the spacer is used if putting a mountain bike on the Kickr. That said, my road bike was difficult to index on the Kickr Core (using the correct cassette), but eventually I had success.
Ahh clean ur bike
Who does that, hey??
Mine ain't going on the trainer in that condition 🤣
Heh, I've literally just sent a spacer back for a refund after an ebay chancer didn't send me the wheels I bought, almost certainly because his auction didn't fetch as much as he was expecting.
All these spacings between gear systems are a nightmare. I was running Sora on my DT swiss 1800 wheels which has an 11 speed ROAD hub with a 1.85mm spacer... all ok. I bought an 11 speed 105 groupo from CRC and also a 11-34 105 cassette from Merlin. This 11 speed cassette still needs the 1.85mm spacer on the 11 speed ROAD hub, and therefore somehow must be MTB spacing....!?
On my new V5 KIckr neither that (new) Sora cassette or the Sram 10 speed on my other bike will go on to the KIckr "nicely" with their supplied 1.85mm spacer, it's rather uncomfortable getting the lockring tightened for fear of it stripping the threads and destroying the freehub...and both bikes the indexing is out but I suspect a 1.0mm spacer is needed as the cassette is too far out...but really the issue then is the Wahoo freehub being machined somewhere between an 8-10 speed and an 11...
LOL, the "105" (huge air quotes) 11-34 cassette is just a HG700 with 105 printed on the lock-ring and is indeed a MTB cassette. In fact in the small print on Merlins website it states: The 11-34 is HG700 (Same as CS-R7000).
This is not just Shimano being cheap for no reason a 34 cassette on an O.L.D. (130 mm) road spaced frame can have difficulty clearing the spokes on some wheels without a spacer, so it makes sense for them to do it this way.
@@chris1275cc Thanks for that info.... I'm working on losing enough weight and getting fitter so hopefully can run the SS mech and 11-30 cassette (I bought the GS for 11-32/34) and avoid being shamed by real roadies for my "dinner plate" granny gear lol
yeah i have that cassette on all my road bikes and trainer, and you have to use the spacer as the back of it is concaved, and like said can be used for MTB
@@monetaryjack1705 I lost 70 Kg in 2 years mostly through cycling I had a 11-40 in the beginning, nothing to be ashamed of its mostly just banter. If you don't know of her already look up Katie Kookaburra on YT, she was a former "fatty" too, she runs a bigger cassette and sometimes even a GRX sub-compact, anyone who tries to shame her for it soon gets a hard lesson 🤣.
BTW Don't bother swapping the GS for a SS the GS will work better than fine. The SS is very limiting and IMO does not shift a 30 as well, a lot of people run a GS with a smaller cassette even us "real roadies" LOL
@@chris1275cc It's a lot to do with the terrain also, Cairngorms in the Scottish Highlands, I'd happily run a 30/46 with 11/34 if 105 was an option... Folk that live in flat areas can get away with 11-25/28 (and 36/52) and get the benefit of single tooth changes through most of the cassette!!!
Luckily, no such issues here.
Why is there a problem at all? Isn't there a standard? 11speed hubs no spacers. 10 speed -- depending on cassette 1.85 for sure and 1 mm, maybe depending on construction of 10 speed up.
"Standard" LOL, Allow me to introduce you the whats known as *The Cycling Industry* - We can't make a round hole, and compatibility is a dirty word 👍
And there is us who switch between 10 speed and 11 😆
Slightly more that way, he said, indicating outbound after having said inbound ...
Spacers did not work for me....the cassette always wobbled....I had to use a spare cassette sprocket which is larger in diameter and gives better support to the back of the cassette after removing it's rivets. Anyone else have the same problem?
sometimes the spacer is up against the tiny rivets that hold the cassette together, causing the wobble, just grind / file down the heads so they are flush with the big cog and it should work fine. The cassette might fall apart when you remove it but not whilst its properly installed on the hub.
@@andywalford7544 Thankyou, yes I removed the rivets in the end although since the spacers are the same shape as the freehub it shouldn't be a problem...only when fitting a sprocket instead...
Okay, now tell me how to set up a direct-drive trainer to work with my 1990s vintage Bianchi Eros with Campagnolo Mirage (3x8).
hahaha maybe that's one for a Tech Clinic? 👀
Get a trainer that takes a 130 mm O.L.D. spaced frame (most do but you might have to buy axle adapters separately). An 8 speed Shimano HG/HG compatible cassette will work fine (I know a lot of vintage campy guys like Miche cassettes when forced to use HG free-hubs) you will need a 1.85 mm spacer if the turbo has an 11 speed hub, or you could buy a pack of spacers and adjust by trial and error as in this video. The turbo won't care about anything else (number of chain-rings, etc.).
Personnaly i would just index my gear to my trainer.
Great to hear, whatever works for you. Some people are jumping between the road and the turbo so want both to be as seamless as possible. 🙌
Or… just keep your bike on the trainer and buy a new road bike. (always looking for an excuse to buy a new bike). 😀
@@gcntech i have been one of them lucky people that my bike and trainer is the same, i use the same cassette on both, and can just put the bike on the trainer with no issue
Bye!
🤪
Training indoors on a dirty bike 👎
This problem is completely solved -- kept from ever occuring -- by using a wheel-on trainer.
SORRY DID'NT CATCH THAT, THERE IS A LOUD, HORRIBLE, ANNOYING SOUND LIKE A MILLION ANGRY BEES IN A BROKEN WASHING MACHINE, SAY AGAIN??? 😏
@@chris1275cc Everything is a trade-off.