On a quick note: i had to replace my shocks, because they rusted through, and were leaking oil after 5 years and 60k miles. I could have replaced them for half the price with OEM MOPAR parts, but i decided to go with Bilstein, because of the better quality, and i am not in the mood to replace my shocks every 50k miles. Remember, that a good shock plays an important role in vehicle dynamics, and the braking system. It's not worth losing the vehicle over a bad shock.
Where can you get the OEM for half the cost of these? Everywhere I look the OEM is more expensive than the Bilstien.. by a lot. How would you compare the ride quality from when the OEM was good? I am needing to replace mine and am wondering if the Bilstein would be stiffer than factory? Looking for the softest ride possible. Thanks
@@clarda1 Oh okay. Maybe I'll do that. I've heard people complain about those monroe's starting to get a clunky sound after a while. How are they holding up for you?
Mike Phelps They are holding up fine so far. I got the rears off of Amazon for under $20 for the pair. Id honestly recommend the OEMs over anything though. They are more pricey but ride is the best for rough roads. The Monroes ride good but i doubt they will last like the oem ones.
I’ve learned with these compressor taking them apart fully and installing/removing them with the thread bar works really well on any diameter or coil distance.
Doing this job now on a 4WD 2011 Grand Cherokee using Bilstein 4600 shocks. Good Video except hardest part is pulling the old Shocks out. Barely got the Pass side shock out after also disconnecting tie rod from the knuckle and with a helper stepping all the way down on the wheel hub. Driver side definitely seems to be just as tough if not tougher.
@@mygiguser Yes, job all done, Also removed the drivers side axle to get old shock out. Definitely toughest shock replacement I ever did, and I've done many. Drivers side axle is shorter than pass side. Now I find there's slight play on the front sway bar bushings (did install new moog sway bar links same time as front shocks). Seems like you have to buy the entire sway bar assembly as the sway bushings are not sold separately, a very pricy option (around $500 for mopar assembly, ouch... vs typical $20 to $50 for a pair of bushings)....
Just did this same job. I would recommend not taking off any brake components or axle nuts. You'll only need to take off 4 nuts in this order. Make sure both wheels are up in the air to take tension off sway bar. First sway bar link, then steering tie rod nut, then back off shock nut from the bolt that goes through lower control arm. Finally the upper control nut. You might want to take out drive axle from differtial. This will help when pushing the arm assembly down to clear the drive shaft. Do no use that spring compressor. These are heavy duty springs and that is designed for car springs. Do NOT use a impact on that spring tool. Try to find and use the powerbuilt spring/strut compressor. Auto zone rental for $200. Hope my commentt helps others.
Great advice. Be very careful on driver side though when pushing down or the cv tripod joint will pop out under the boot. Giant pain. Easiest to just remove the hub and brakes just to be safe👍
@@jefftwitty4174 I get that this comment is from a year ago - but the tripod joint popped under the boot! I had actually removed the brakes and all per the video steps but when i was trying to get the stubborn hub out I clearly pushed down too much and "pop". Any chance you know an efficient way to put it back since you mentioned it?
@@challenparker5579 I ended up removing the entire cv joint and axle so u can see whats under the boot. I called a mechanic buddy and he came over to help. Even then we used a dead blow hammer to get it back in. Its a greasy mess under the boot. we used a large ziptie instead of clamp on the boot until i could get it to his shop
@@jefftwitty4174 Much appreciated. I might try to do some chiropractic magic on it first since it's so open in there at the moment.... If not, out she comes.
This is more like a two person job of you have no impact tool. The missing part of the video when he removes the shock is the spot I had the most difficult time. It legit will not come out. Please plan for a full 4 hours or more for this task. The video definitely helped out a lot though so thank you for that.
When I replaced the bump stop, I couldn't fit it into the strut mount like you did in the video, and it ended up being somewhat loose on the shock absorber rod. Is it okay to leave it like that?
Make a video and post how it doesn't fit, and what the problem is. Maybe there are some viewers out there that can help. Send me the link to your video. I have to sleep now, but i can look at it in the morning.
If it was me i would have gone on and replaced the upper control arms as well, since you already did the hard part removing the strut, couple moe bolts and the Arms can be removed
The car had only 50k miles on it, i needed to replace, because the front right rusted through. They must have used bad metal when they were making the shocks. Same happened to the transmission oil pan. I would have done more, like the control arms you mentioned, if the car would have had more than 150k miles on it.
you see 32 on the tool i use in the video. mine is a MY 2013. But that doesn't mean there could be a 36 on another car. Take the wheel off and measure with a ruler.
@@patrickcleroux5866 depending on year, your bolts may be completely different. For example, some people have 14mm caliper bolts, I had 11mm Allen studs. I also had a 32mm axle nut.
it depends on the mileage of the car, and if it is worn out. If you have a higher mileage, and you hear noise, then i would replace them. In my video the car had relative low mileage, and the strut mounts where still OK.
What year Jeep is this? The steering knuckle is the type that has the ball joint above the tire like the trailblazers have..I’ve not seen another vehicle like this besides the envoys and trailblazers and other branded vehicles same as the trailblazer….interesting…getting ready to replace all the struts on a 96 Cherokee…I swear it had the small steering knuckle like a regular suv has…I did notice there r two struts/shocks per side on the front end…this may be an interesting task…I’m already flustered over the wiring in it…I like mopar products…Chrysler can make one hell of a nice vehicle …the sedans that will blow the doors off any competitor but working on them…I don’t like working on any mopar product…way too difficult!
Hey was wondering how your ride was after switching from load leveling to a little more standard strut. I don't tow and want to swap over to a standard strut any additional tips would be greatly appreciated!
i didn't have load leveling in there. So i went from factory soft to this medium/hard suspension. It is definitely more sporty for sure. If you would switch from air suspension to this, you wouldn't be happy.
Great video except for one horrible omission! you really don't explain how you got the shock absorber clevis over the CV boot.I am in the middle of this procedure right now and I don't see a way to do it without taking the CV drive axle off or trying to compress the spring on the vehicle (very difficult and tedious).
It’s definitely a pain to remove. I rented a hub puller from my local parts store. Remove wheel, remove sway bar links, disconnect tie rod ends, remove axle nut. Remove the 3 upper strut bolts, and the lower strut bolt. Loosen lower ball joint and remove upper ball joint. The steering knuckle should swing down and out of the way. You can push down on it for leverage on the lower control arm.That should give you enough space to pull the strut out. Hope this helps.
I know this video is a couple years old, so I hope I get a reply. I noticed this was performed on a 4WD. Is the process much different on a 2WD? I'm wondering if there is room to remove the shock without lowering the hub assembly if you are not dealing with the CV joints and front drive axles?
Great video and thank you for taking the time to make and post it. How long did it take to change out both front shocks? This is very helpful as I must change out mine very soon and will be installing the same shocks.
Douglas Fikes I can’t really say, because by doing a video it takes much longer. I spent an afternoon on it. With a helper, and tools ready, I would say 2hours.
@@mygiguser when you removed the mount and spring from the old shock to put it on the new ones with the pass through socket at the top of the shock shaft
I just closed up my struts after transferring the spring. I noticed the little indexing pin on the top boot is not perfectly aligned and as a result the fork is rotated slightly. Can I install the strut at the top and then rotate the fork at the bottom? The whole piston should be able to turn correct? That’s why you have to hold it with a hex when installing the nut because it can rotate 360 right?
Most likely a hex key of some sort. I believe the stock end links on a wk2 require the hex to hold the ball joint steady. Be careful though, those can strip out easily if corroded.
Left and right are the same, but you could install them wrong, not sure what happens then. Always best to take a picture of the old shock installed, and then compare to the new part installed. Replace one side first, and you can look on the other side, if all looks the same, then do the other side.
I replaced my shocks for my grand Cherokee Laredo 2011 and I put the leacree brand I think it's a Chinese or Korean brand and the noise still the same even they are new . Please advise me if have to change them and put the bilstein ?? Thank you
Btw. i used Bilstein, because i have very good experience with Bilstein. I read a few reviews about the Leacree brand, and i think next time i replace shocks on my car, i am going to use Bilstein.
Here, this is what i ordered exactly for my 2013 WK2 B6 4600 - SHOCK ABSORBER Part Number: 24-225410 Series: B6 4600 Notes: - Without Self-Leveling Suspension B6 4600 - SHOCK ABSORBER Part Number: 24-225427 Series: B6 4600 Notes: - Without Self-Leveling (Nivomat) Suspension
@clarda1 still comfortable, very similar to the original shocks as they were new., but there is no swinging and swaying. Knowing this now, i should have changed to Bilstein the day a bought this car.
Might be better to have it out of the way in case the knuckle assembly drops forward like it did in his video. Plus it doesn't hurt to check the brake parts while you have it apart.
WHAT I'M TRYING TO FIGURE OUT IS, WHY IN THE HELL WOULD YOU COMPRESS THAT SPRING WITH THAT MUCH POWER BEHIND IT? IF THOSE WIDOW-MAKERS COME LOOSE YOU'RE DONE!!! THE COMPRESSION SHOULD ONLY HAVE BEEN ENOUGH TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE ON THAT BOLT ON TOP SO YOU CAN REMOVE IT NOT THAT MUCH! THAT PRESSURE! SOMEBODY'S GOING TO GET KILLED IF THEY FOLLOW THAT WAY! I'M JUST SAYING YOU SHOULD COMPRESS IT ALL THE WAY DOWN
On a quick note: i had to replace my shocks, because they rusted through, and were leaking oil after 5 years and 60k miles. I could have replaced them for half the price with OEM MOPAR parts, but i decided to go with Bilstein, because of the better quality, and i am not in the mood to replace my shocks every 50k miles. Remember, that a good shock plays an important role in vehicle dynamics, and the braking system. It's not worth losing the vehicle over a bad shock.
Where can you get the OEM for half the cost of these? Everywhere I look the OEM is more expensive than the Bilstien.. by a lot. How would you compare the ride quality from when the OEM was good? I am needing to replace mine and am wondering if the Bilstein would be stiffer than factory? Looking for the softest ride possible. Thanks
@@clarda1 what did you come up with? researching the same thing here.
Mike Phelps Ending up going with Monroe. Heard from a few people the bilsteins were stiff.
@@clarda1 Oh okay. Maybe I'll do that. I've heard people complain about those monroe's starting to get a clunky sound after a while. How are they holding up for you?
Mike Phelps They are holding up fine so far. I got the rears off of Amazon for under $20 for the pair. Id honestly recommend the OEMs over anything though. They are more pricey but ride is the best for rough roads. The Monroes ride good but i doubt they will last like the oem ones.
Thanks so much for this instructional. I did this and fixed my wife's car today. It was very challenging, but rewarding. Thx again, Dave
I’ve learned with these compressor taking them apart fully and installing/removing them with the thread bar works really well on any diameter or coil distance.
no background music until the more difficult disassembly is complete, I see what you did there! My sentiment exactly on these repairs.
Was the Time to crack open a cold one and throw some tunes on.
When doing tire rotations, it's always a good idea to put a small amount of grease on any exposed threads.
MKE Dan were i live it’s probably a good idea to do when you get a new car. It blows my mind how fast this car is rusting away...
Doing this job now on a 4WD 2011 Grand Cherokee using Bilstein 4600 shocks. Good Video except hardest part is pulling the old Shocks out. Barely got the Pass side shock out after also disconnecting tie rod from the knuckle and with a helper stepping all the way down on the wheel hub. Driver side definitely seems to be just as tough if not tougher.
but you got it done. Best decision ever to put Bilstein in that truck!!!
@@mygiguser Yes, job all done, Also removed the drivers side axle to get old shock out. Definitely toughest shock replacement I ever did, and I've done many.
Drivers side axle is shorter than pass side. Now I find there's slight play on the front sway bar bushings (did install new moog sway bar links same time as front shocks). Seems like you have to buy the entire sway bar assembly as the sway bushings are not sold separately, a very pricy option (around $500 for mopar assembly, ouch... vs typical $20 to $50 for a pair of bushings)....
Going to be doing this and installing Swift lowering springs pretty soon. Hoping my install goes as easy as this. VERY helpful video. Thank you!
Just did this same job. I would recommend not taking off any brake components or axle nuts. You'll only need to take off 4 nuts in this order. Make sure both wheels are up in the air to take tension off sway bar. First sway bar link, then steering tie rod nut, then back off shock nut from the bolt that goes through lower control arm. Finally the upper control nut. You might want to take out drive axle from differtial. This will help when pushing the arm assembly down to clear the drive shaft. Do no use that spring compressor. These are heavy duty springs and that is designed for car springs. Do NOT use a impact on that spring tool. Try to find and use the powerbuilt spring/strut compressor. Auto zone rental for $200. Hope my commentt helps others.
Great advice. Be very careful on driver side though when pushing down or the cv tripod joint will pop out under the boot. Giant pain. Easiest to just remove the hub and brakes just to be safe👍
@@jefftwitty4174 I get that this comment is from a year ago - but the tripod joint popped under the boot! I had actually removed the brakes and all per the video steps but when i was trying to get the stubborn hub out I clearly pushed down too much and "pop". Any chance you know an efficient way to put it back since you mentioned it?
@@challenparker5579 I ended up removing the entire cv joint and axle so u can see whats under the boot. I called a mechanic buddy and he came over to help. Even then we used a dead blow hammer to get it back in. Its a greasy mess under the boot. we used a large ziptie instead of clamp on the boot until i could get it to his shop
@@challenparker5579 I cant remember if diff fluid leaked out or not
@@jefftwitty4174 Much appreciated. I might try to do some chiropractic magic on it first since it's so open in there at the moment.... If not, out she comes.
Great video these instructions are on point follow them and you will be able to do it, thanks again man!
How do you compress the spring enough? I have it in a clam and it won't compress it . Spring is like 18 inches
you saw in the video how i did it, if it doesn't compress enough, you need to start with the claws further out.
This is more like a two person job of you have no impact tool. The missing part of the video when he removes the shock is the spot I had the most difficult time. It legit will not come out. Please plan for a full 4 hours or more for this task. The video definitely helped out a lot though so thank you for that.
Questing about taking the bearing apart. I didn't have to do this. My repair manual doesn't have u taking that out either.
well, you can always try without, if it doesnt work, post an update over here.
When I replaced the bump stop, I couldn't fit it into the strut mount like you did in the video, and it ended up being somewhat loose on the shock absorber rod. Is it okay to leave it like that?
not ok. It has to fit!!!
Make a video and post how it doesn't fit, and what the problem is. Maybe there are some viewers out there that can help. Send me the link to your video. I have to sleep now, but i can look at it in the morning.
If it was me i would have gone on and replaced the upper control arms as well, since you already did the hard part removing the strut, couple moe bolts and the Arms can be removed
The car had only 50k miles on it, i needed to replace, because the front right rusted through. They must have used bad metal when they were making the shocks. Same happened to the transmission oil pan. I would have done more, like the control arms you mentioned, if the car would have had more than 150k miles on it.
I see in this video that the axle nut might be 32 mm but in other forums they all.say 36mm.wich one is correct??thanks
you see 32 on the tool i use in the video. mine is a MY 2013. But that doesn't mean there could be a 36 on another car. Take the wheel off and measure with a ruler.
Awsome thanks
@@patrickcleroux5866 depending on year, your bolts may be completely different. For example, some people have 14mm caliper bolts, I had 11mm Allen studs. I also had a 32mm axle nut.
Awesome video you have just saved me a great deal of time and effort
Thank you for the great video! Is it needed to replace the strut mount?
it depends on the mileage of the car, and if it is worn out. If you have a higher mileage, and you hear noise, then i would replace them. In my video the car had relative low mileage, and the strut mounts where still OK.
What year Jeep is this? The steering knuckle is the type that has the ball joint above the tire like the trailblazers have..I’ve not seen another vehicle like this besides the envoys and trailblazers and other branded vehicles same as the trailblazer….interesting…getting ready to replace all the struts on a 96 Cherokee…I swear it had the small steering knuckle like a regular suv has…I did notice there r two struts/shocks per side on the front end…this may be an interesting task…I’m already flustered over the wiring in it…I like mopar products…Chrysler can make one hell of a nice vehicle …the sedans that will blow the doors off any competitor but working on them…I don’t like working on any mopar product…way too difficult!
2013
Hey was wondering how your ride was after switching from load leveling to a little more standard strut. I don't tow and want to swap over to a standard strut any additional tips would be greatly appreciated!
i didn't have load leveling in there. So i went from factory soft to this medium/hard suspension. It is definitely more sporty for sure. If you would switch from air suspension to this, you wouldn't be happy.
Do you have a video showing replacement of WK2 front hub assemblies?
Thanks, Duane
This guy is very thorough great vid
Great video except for one horrible omission! you really don't explain how you got the shock absorber clevis over the CV boot.I am in the middle of this procedure right now and I don't see a way to do it without taking the CV drive axle off or trying to compress the spring on the vehicle (very difficult and tedious).
Jason Dickerson well it’s not very easy, you need to push the lower arm down quite a bit (long prybar)
@@mygiguser Yeah that's the real problem. Really nice of you to totally exclude that part from the video.
How did you even get the strut off? I'm stuck on the cv joint hub
push the lower control arm down with a prybar
It’s definitely a pain to remove. I rented a hub puller from my local parts store. Remove wheel, remove sway bar links, disconnect tie rod ends, remove axle nut. Remove the 3 upper strut bolts, and the lower strut bolt. Loosen lower ball joint and remove upper ball joint. The steering knuckle should swing down and out of the way. You can push down on it for leverage on the lower control arm.That should give you enough space to pull the strut out. Hope this helps.
This repair is no easy task much harder job than the older version grand cherokee.
How do you remove drive axle (at end of removal) so you can get old shock out
What is the part number for the Bilstein Shock?
That depends on your Jeep the shock is Model 4600, the part number maybe different depending on what car you have.
thank you for this vid!
I know this video is a couple years old, so I hope I get a reply. I noticed this was performed on a 4WD. Is the process much different on a 2WD? I'm wondering if there is room to remove the shock without lowering the hub assembly if you are not dealing with the CV joints and front drive axles?
NO, you have to lower the control arm, but you have a lot more room to work. Should be a lot easier.
th-cam.com/video/JLh2gOrjeCM/w-d-xo.html
@@mygiguser Thank you so much!!!
You should add that while the process is the same, Bilstein doesn't make shocks for the 2016-2018 wk2. The upper strut mount is different.
Brandon Belfield i think you can buy an upper shock mount that fits
Are you certain on this? What comes standard on the srt?
Great video and thank you for taking the time to make and post it. How long did it take to change out both front shocks? This is very helpful as I must change out mine very soon and will be installing the same shocks.
Douglas Fikes I can’t really say, because by doing a video it takes much longer. I spent an afternoon on it. With a helper, and tools ready, I would say 2hours.
Great video! I’m in the middle of doing this currently. How did you get the factory strut out over the outer cv axle?
Jacob Black you push the lower arms down with a long prybar.
That wasn’t fun, but sure enough, it worked. I’m nominating you for a Nobel Peace Prize
@@mygiguser The strut will not slide over the axle boot. it's too wide.
So when I try to remove hub nut the wheel spins. How do u stop that?
engine running, and someone steps on the brakes
What size socket did you use to hold the oval shaped shock shaft when removing the spring perch / strut mount?
nothing oval shaped here, what nut/bolt are you talking about?
@@mygiguser when you removed the mount and spring from the old shock to put it on the new ones with the pass through socket at the top of the shock shaft
I just closed up my struts after transferring the spring. I noticed the little indexing pin on the top boot is not perfectly aligned and as a result the fork is rotated slightly. Can I install the strut at the top and then rotate the fork at the bottom? The whole piston should be able to turn correct? That’s why you have to hold it with a hex when installing the nut because it can rotate 360 right?
Cory Absi that’s right
I wonder dose the 2011 overland edition have shocks
Great video! How do you separate the axle from the wheel assembly? Mine doesn't want to come off...
Loosen the nut, hold a piece of hardwood in front of it, hit it with a heavy hammer. A few taps, see how that goes.
@@mygiguser thanks! you mean hit the spindle with the hammer? with the wood in between, obviously...
Can you change the front struts without using a impact wrench? Or is it really tight that using an impact wrench is the only way?
brenda ramirez you can, but an impact wrench makes this a whole lot faster and easier.
HI
Would you think this shock will fit quadralift air bag?
Your WK2 did not have air suspension? Right?
Yes, you are correct, this one does not have air suspension.
Where can i buy the Blistein Shock or what model is it?
Do the top mounts on these shocks have bearing’s?
yes, but they don't come with the shocks.
@@mygiguser thanx . How many miles did yours have when you replaced your shocks ? Were your top mounts still in good condition?
Thank you for a good video !!!
Great Video Thanks for your effort, what year is your Grand Cherokee??
wwmilanl 2013
Did the lower spring mount come with the shock?
yes
@@mygiguser are you kidding me? I spent 1k on eibachs and had to buy a used set of struts, just for them, an they ripped upon install 😂
great vid thanks.. groovy tunes man...peace out
Thanks for the video
Did you have to pull the CV to pull the strut?
Absolutely, I would love to see video proof than you don’t. I had to. Mine was a 2014 thought. Seemed the the same though out the rest.
Great video! one question: What else did you use in addition to the Go-Thru socket for the end links?
Most likely a hex key of some sort. I believe the stock end links on a wk2 require the hex to hold the ball joint steady. Be careful though, those can strip out easily if corroded.
8 mm socket
Is it posible to confuse them? I mean put the right in the left and the left in the right... if so is it dangerous?
Left and right are the same, but you could install them wrong, not sure what happens then. Always best to take a picture of the old shock installed, and then compare to the new part installed. Replace one side first, and you can look on the other side, if all looks the same, then do the other side.
I replaced my shocks for my grand Cherokee Laredo 2011 and I put the leacree brand I think it's a Chinese or Korean brand and the noise still the same even they are new . Please advise me if have to change them and put the bilstein ?? Thank you
What do you mean by "the noise" ? I don't know what noise you had. Did you make a video? I don't remember, did you email me before?
Btw. i used Bilstein, because i have very good experience with Bilstein. I read a few reviews about the Leacree brand, and i think next time i replace shocks on my car, i am going to use Bilstein.
Thank you for this great video! I could tell what the bilstein model is? I would appreciate it!
yes, it was the 4600 Series
Here, this is what i ordered exactly for my 2013 WK2
B6 4600 - SHOCK ABSORBER
Part Number: 24-225410
Series: B6 4600
Notes:
- Without Self-Leveling Suspension
B6 4600 - SHOCK ABSORBER
Part Number: 24-225427
Series: B6 4600
Notes:
- Without Self-Leveling (Nivomat) Suspension
Thanks a lot!!!
Which Bilstein shocks were installed
Craig MacNaughton 4600
Did you have to replace that ring or seal (the one between the wheel hub and axle) that you were showing or reused the old one?
NM BarCode i used the old one
Where is the best place to buy those threw wrenches that you used for the ball joints
Franky Vega Harbor Freight
Amazing video!
Did you or do you recommend replacing the “Bearing” in the “Top Mount”?
NM BarCode i didn’t because i didn’t have many miles on the car.
What was the reason for removing that central bolt
Msa quality Inc what bolt? the hub nut?
Is there a length difference between the standard strut and the billstein? Open length
not that i know of
Did you do alignment after you changed the suspension?
edi no, I didn’t, and I don’t notice any alignment issues afterwards (like tire wear, or pulling to the side).
@@mygiguser ok, thanks a lot
@@sony7ist It's always recommended to have an alignment done after major suspension work. No two jobs are the same. Just to be safe
Do you need to have the alignment redone after this?
dragonflymadfw i didn’t,
How did you do the driver side? I tried what you did but the cv axle is in the way.
Wolfsburg GTI same as passenger, no difference!
you need to push the lower arm down quite a bit.
@8:25 you can see how i put the new shock in, and i think that is the diver side!?
Does not work on 16 and newer
Why would you remove the hub nut
No way around it, you have to move the hub assembly out of the way, otherwise you can’t get the shock out. Not enough space.
Oh okay I see.
Ive removed the strut on a 2011 without removing the axle/hub... Only undid the upper control arm ball joint
How is the ride quality?
@clarda1 still comfortable, very similar to the original shocks as they were new., but there is no swinging and swaying. Knowing this now, i should have changed to Bilstein the day a bought this car.
You do not have to remove the caliper or the lines or sensor lines. It will come out easily without doing this... fyi
Might be better to have it out of the way in case the knuckle assembly drops forward like it did in his video. Plus it doesn't hurt to check the brake parts while you have it apart.
@@sampankow1820 don't let it drop forward. Just saying I'm glad we noticed so we didn't waste our time.
@@wernerslostblues Fair enough fair enough
Where you got the torq especs? And did you had to do wheel alignment?
Repair manual, and no i didn't do a wheel alignment.
Where did you get the new spring perch from? I've been looking for one and can't find the correct part number.
i didn't get anything new, re-used what was there, and everything else came with the shocks!
@@mygiguser ok thanks.
@@idrivealowcar Shock Upper Mount
68029590AF
You talking about this?
@@mygiguser no, I was referring to the lower spring perch.
Do Stock Cherokee come with shock or strut only?
Strut in the front, shock in the back
Does not fit 16+ wk2
The part may not fit, but the installation method is the same.
Install is close but not the same.
@@n54nation Bilstein does not make shocks for the '16+ WK2. I wish they did!
WHAT I'M TRYING TO FIGURE OUT IS, WHY IN THE HELL WOULD YOU COMPRESS THAT SPRING WITH THAT MUCH POWER BEHIND IT? IF THOSE WIDOW-MAKERS COME LOOSE YOU'RE DONE!!! THE COMPRESSION SHOULD ONLY HAVE BEEN ENOUGH TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE ON THAT BOLT ON TOP SO YOU CAN REMOVE IT NOT THAT MUCH! THAT PRESSURE! SOMEBODY'S GOING TO GET KILLED IF THEY FOLLOW THAT WAY! I'M JUST SAYING YOU SHOULD COMPRESS IT ALL THE WAY DOWN
Not sure what you are talking about. AND WHY ARE YOU TYPING WITH CAPS LOCK ON? Are you afraid of those springs? Then maybe this work is not for you?
Do you have the torque specs anywhere ? I didnt see them.
no, i did it be feel, and the hub nut was 310Nm