Got my hangkai 3.6 a little over a week ago. First chance to get it out on the lake was today. Your motor, (the way you had it set up first) sounded exactly like mine. After your adjustment it sounds very nice unlike mine. My engine never idled. Had to run it at first with the choke almost all the way on. Once it warmed up I backed off the choke it seemed to run better. But it's stalled. I got it started back up I was only running like three quarters throttle and when it tried to stall again I caught it with a dose of full throttle. It happened about 5 more times I'm sure if I wasn't quick on the throttle it would have stalled. So I thought I would come on TH-cam and see if somebody wasn't messing with the idol or the mixture or even leaning out the oil mix a little bit. I'm very glad you made this video hopefully my mixture adjustment screw is in the same place and it fixes my problem. Thanks brother I'll keep you posted.
it seems to be a common problem with these so I am sure that is the case. The reason is that they can't pre-tune the air/fuel ratio for every possible altitude where they might be shipped. Usually when people buy "small engines" like chain saws, weed eaters, lawn mowers, etc they are usually assembled by a local shop/store and tuned before they are sold to someone locally (or at least somewhat tuned and adjusted for that general location) but when you buy something online that gets shipped from over-seas and stored in a warehouse to be shipped many states away ... this is the result.
@@sharpridgehomestead that certainly sounds like a possibility. Me I was thinking the manufacturer errors on the side of caution. When first cranked up I believe they want that motor as rich as possible both in the fuel oil mix and the air fuel mix for lubrication and limiting RPMs. The funny part is everything I know about this motor came almost exclusively from customers on TH-cam and not the manufacturer.
@@LouLovesLyrics I've had mine 5 years now and once I fixed the air/fuel ratio ... I have not had a single issue out of it unless something happened last year and i don't know it yet (been fighting cancer the last two years and never even got the chance to start it last year). All I usually do religiously with this motor is drain all the fuel before winter and start it up and let it run until it gets the last bits of fuel burned up and it usually starts up easy in the spring with fresh fuel.
@@sharpridgehomestead sorry about your cancer brother. I'm facing skin cancer which is nothing they just keep cutting and freezing it off. Might have developed a prostate issue though got to go to the doctor and check that out. But gave my mixture a half turn counterclockwise motor started idling high enough to turn the prop. So I backed off the idle adjustment a couple turns and let it warm up. Then I backed off the idle a little more and let it run for about 15 minutes before it finally stoped on its own. One more little tweak of the idle screw and now it seems like it will idol forever. Thanks for all your help brother.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to post a video I have two of these motors on order and I will be gathering all information from TH-cam videos to help me thank you so much
Glad you fixed it. Most newer 2 strokes are tuned right on the raggedy edge of too lean for the EPA, and the Chinese one's are the worst of the bunch. First thing I do is break them in on 25:1 mix with marvel's mystery oil added in addition to the 2 stroke oil 2oz per 5 gallon can. Then I switch them to 32:1 still with Marvel's added, adjust the air/fuel mix, and only use premium gas because cheap US gas has no stabilizers and it goes bad in the can in a month. Which is why so many people complain about Ethanol in the US but in most foreign countries it's a non-issue. Since it takes so long to ship gas to those countries on tankers all their gas has stabilizers in it. In the US it goes from the refinery straight to the pump and is gone in a week so only Premium has stabilizers.
mine runs like a top now ... I have had it out at least 25 times after this video and it has never stalled or died. I'm thoroughly impressed with how well it has done considering the lower cost.
I just got one of these for my son's Quest Angler 8. I had to turn out the mixture screw just over a full turn to get it to run best. Also, if the gas cap is too tight, it doesn't vent properly for whatever reason. Runs great now on a stand. Hopefully, it runs as good in thd water!
Thanks for sharing. These seem to be solid motors that once you get the air fuel adjusted for your location they have very few issues. One thing I left out of videos inadvertently is don't forget to drain fuel from the tank and carb during any extended periods of not using, like over winter or like me while in cancer treatment. Or add some type of fuel stability additive. This keeps moisture in the fuel from corroding the carburator
Remember, the cooling water pump does not run unless the prop shaft is turning. The centrifugal clutch does not engage until the rpms come up, so the output shaft does not turn the impeller. Idling, with the prop still will deprive the cylinder of coolant. tom
Thank you, very helpful. Bought it as well, followed "Boiler Dan's" instructions too. Then during the break in process my engine had exactly these hick-ups. Did the carburetor adjustments and now it's running perfect. !!!
What are wrong with your fuel lines? I never changed mine and its been a few years since i did this video and honestly the engine has never given me any more issues.
@@sharpridgehomesteadI was out on the lake the other day coming in and I noticed a fuel leak, when I got around to checking them today I noticed gas tank was loose and both lines were partially severd. Black line with filter was at bottom of tank, not sure about the other...
@@ballader4life my gas tank is drained and i used a flashlight to look down fuel cap hole. I only see one fuel line on bottom of tank. Bad thing is i can't really see around the inside of the tank .. Even my mechanics mirror wont fit down there. I hate to say either way but knowing how fuel systems work, if one is a suction line it would be touching the bottom and the return/overflow line wouldn't matter if it touched bottom or not.
I have the Hangkai 3.6, the choke is labeled backwards, on is off and off is on. Chinglish, when the choke is on the air flow to the carborator is choked off.
I was having the same issues. I followed someone else's recommendation and replaced the Torch L7T spark plug with a Champion CJ8Y. However, factory specs called for a 0.9-1.0 mm gap (0.035-0.040 in.). The plug it came with was set at less than a 0.5 mm gap, so I set the gap to 0.035 on the new plug. I also made the mixture a bit richer by a quarter turn out, then another eighth of a turn out. (3/8 turn out, altogether.) It ran better but still some occasional hesitation. I loosened the gas cap and now it runs better. So, I think there is a venting problem with the gas cap design. That's my next project. It's a sweet, simple engine.
thanks for the comments and additional tips for others to try. I guess I just got lucky with mine, I haven't had any issues with it since I set the air/fuel ratio and its still running on the same spark plug (i think I may have adjusted the gap before I did the air fuel ration mix but I can't remember now). Also, thanks for watching!
Another small tip is to use 10w40 oil in the lower.. I’ve picked up another 1 mph just by using synthetic motor oil 10w40 in the lower.. creates less drag allowing this little henkai to rev up a little quicker.. the rpms even sound higher. 34 hours on mine so far and no issues. She doesn’t even run hot
Noticed my gears were very tight. Had to turn pretty hard to rotate the prop half a turn to get to the cotter pin. My rubber gasket looks like it was too big and part of it was sheared off almost uniform around the entire circumference. So I will be changing that fluid regularly might give your idea a try next time.
@@LouLovesLyrics yea these are made in china so don’t expect quality.. but they do ok for what they are. I’ve since blown up the power head and decided to rebuild a little 5hp seahorse outboard i was given. Much better now
@@mikecorleone6797 the 2 people I have found that seem to know the most about two stroke motors, that own these 3.5 or 3.6 hangkai motors, (Ed Widget and Boiler Dan) have had their motors for multiple seasons. Both of them like myself immediately felt like they were running rich. Different theories for this. One was manufactured at high altitudes. Mine was manufacturer was erroring on the side of caution, delivered motors set to run rich for two reasons. One guaranteeing that the motor would not reach its maximum rpm, second that more two-stroke oil than the engine was designed for would be flowing through and over the most critical services when it was first started. Either way after adjustment motor seems to be running just fine. After 1 hour I disassembled the lower unit and found metal flakes in the oil. So I replaced it with fresh oil. I suspect this motor will need a lot of maintenance. But it has so far past two tests that I purchased it for. It did move my 14 ft inflatable boat efficiently, (and I will be performing another performance test now that it's running properly). Number two I was able to load the 14 ft vessel and the outboard motor onto the back of my adventure motorcycle. And it will surely make some interesting off shore fishing scuba diving videos launching off beaches in Florida from the back of a motor cycle. Just a crazy idea I had. The only thing that makes this possible is the ultralight two-stroke motor I have invested only $250 in. The boat was originally purchase to be a dinghy for my sailboat and I have a 5 horsepower Honda 4 stroke, but the four stroke will not fit on the back of my motorcycle with fishing gear and hookah scuba rig. I will be launching this spring Diving and fishing of bird creek beach and the reefs near there I will also launching off of Jax Beach at The reef where the old Pier was I will also be launching off the beach at the Guana preserves for some of the cleanest water of the north Florida Atlantic coast. It looks like the sailboat will be launched at Fort Walton beach because that's where I will be working. The dinghy and the five horsepower will be out there but the motorcycle will not. Stay tuned.
starting at 2:20 in the video, I use a 13 gallon trash can next to an outdoor patio railing with the motor mounted to the railing (kind of unique but you need to find a way to mount the motor and have it in water ... you could even do this on a lake with the motor mounted to a boat but its more difficult). Once that is done, you remove the 4-6 screws that holds the two plastic motor covers together and separate them, use a string or something to support the side that has the fuel so the hoses don't collapse or get pinched together. You also need to remove the breather cover. With the breather cover removed and the motor covers separated, that exposes the air fuel adjustment screw which is the screw right next to both of the fuel lines where it connects to the carburetor. Start the motor with the choke on and a cold engine and let it idle a few minutes so it reaches operating temperature. Turn the choke off by moving the black plastic choke lever all the way down. If the engine dies with the choke off, you will need to start it back up with the choke on again and do an initial adjustment first with the choke on. The easiest way to adjust the air fuel ratio is with the motor at wide open throttle. Turn the adjustment screw in until you hear the rpms change then back it out slightly until the motor smooths out. It will be an obvious sound change both times. With the air fuel ratio set at wide open throttle, it should also work with no throttle and all the way through the entire throttle range. So check that the motor idles ok and also slowly increase the throttle from idle to wide open. If the motor doesn't stall and it sounds like its running smooth. You are done and you can put it back together. If the motor doesn't run smooth at all throttle ranges, then you will need to repeat the process and try again. You will more than likely get it right the first time but if you are new to working on engines, it might take a couple of tries. If you are having troubles, you can also try to move the air ratio screw in or out in micro increments and test until it works best through all throttle range, i.e. you set it at wide open throttle but it idles rough then try to move the idle adjustment screw out or in 1/8 of a turn and retest.
I tried all morning to no avail, I think I even made the situation worse, the engine makes a louder noise now. I tried to accelerate to the maximum as he suggested by turning the carburetor screw in every sense but the minimum is never established. My engine doesn’t stay on if the choke lever isn’t ON. Unfortunately it’s my first time and I have zero experience, I don’t know what to do !!!
@@TONYZDANDY is the engine new or has it been sitting for a while with gas in it? Usually if an engine won't run unless the choke is on, that means its not getting enough fuel. On carberated engines, that can happen if it had gas in the carberator that goes bad. It can become scaly and clog up the carburetor jets. The only fix at that point is to disassemble the carburetor and clean it manually. That's something that usually requires someone with more experience (not saying its not impossible to DIY carburetor cleaning with no experience but is harder than adjusting it)
Well thanks I know I have worked on two-stoke engines my entire life. I would just like to know a starting place before adjusting the fuel mixture. If someone has one of these Motors & runs without problems, would you please check how many turns out from closed Your adjustment screw is set at & post back. That is all I,m asking. Thank you!
I wish one of you guys that has there motor running good post a comment on what your Screw adjustment is set at. In other words how. Many turns out from closed. I have a motor Coming in next week. It would help many, with a good starting point. I know they can very from motor to motor & elevation. But it would be a good starting point.
Thanks. I know that method used to be used in older carberated motors but i doubt the tolerences are that exact in this motor. At least with mine, it was set close enough it would start and idle and even made it through the break in period they asvise you to do just fine. It was only when i took it out on the lake and was pushing a load that the air/fuel ratio was obviously wrong. I'd advise you to make sure you have tools on your first outing or 2 so your trip doesn't get cut short. Its pretty easy to adjust carb pushing the load you need to push on the lake at 1/2 or wide open throttle.
when the water jacket leaks it shorts out the engine kill terminal witch is located directly under the cylinder head. It come equipped with a rubber jacket. But this doesn't prevent the terminal from grounding enough time to time. The fix is bury it in silicone. It will leak it is the short fall of the motor. The 6 hp is so much better. Like 4 time the engine.
actually there is a video showing that using jb weld professional 500 temp product around the water jacket after cleaning up the cheap failed sealant and waiting 24 hours to dry as per directions and hasn't leaked one bit according to him. Just saying....
Just to let everyone know who's reading these comments the true horse power of this motor is not 3.5 horsepower it is really about a 1.5 horsepower outboard motor So when you're looking at buying this outboard look around at the brand name used and new 1.5 and 1.8 horsepower outboards as well Being a 2 stroke adjusting the fuel mixture and the carburetor can give you anywhere from 1.3 horsepower up to 1.8 horsepower with this particular engine.
yea, there is some misconception about how HP is actually measured. Two trains of thoughts, going by the engine cc or going by the drivetrain/finaldrive. For instance, I can build a car engine to be 500HP but how much of that actually makes it to the wheels? There will be some HP loss or gains depending on the drivetrain/finaldrive, correct? HP would be different at the wheels depending on if it is an automatic transmission with disc plates that can slip vs a standard transmission with steel gears that lose very little power. With that in mind, this engine is 49cc which at the engine converts to 1.5076923076923077 HP. And there is a 2.08 to 1 gear ratio to the prop, so at the prop the HP is 3.136 HP. I didn't factor in the advertised operating range of 4,000 - 5,000 rpm which can cause that 3.136 HP at the prop value up or down depending on where it falls.
How exactly do you know this? Do you have an engine dyno? Do you know the difference between prop horse power and flywheel horse power? Or did you just read it on the internet?
It means add more gas but I have seen the term used incorrectly often. Technically, being rich or lean is the ratio of fuel vs air. Rich means there is a higher concentration of gas (too much fuel) compared to air, lean means there is a lower concentration of gas (too little fuel) compared to air. A rich mixture is often identified by fouled spark plugs, excessive smoke out of the exhaust, and a lot of carbon build up on valves. Hope this helps.
A couple questions....is it brand new or have you owned it a while? Did it sit a long time with gas in the tank? The problem you describe sounds more like a carburetor issue, maybe the jets are restricted or the float valve needle is getting stuck. It could even be the air fuel ratio but im kinda leaning more toward a carb issue until i know more.
It may work itself out after the breakin period. When you buy a new motor, they are not broke in which really means they are factory tight. After its broke in, the bearings seat and this loosens up the engine somewhat. If its still doing the same thing after the breakin period then it could be the air fuel mixture ratio which is different for each altitude. If that is correct, then it could be some other issue in the fuel delivery system.
The fuel lines were rubbish and perished quickly,my motor run the sme way till i swapped the fuel lines with more robust lines and swapped the supply and fuel lines around .they were back to front
Ben I live on the lake. I probably had this boat out 30+ times after this video and never had any other issues with it dying or being hard to start. The air / fuel ratio isn't even a factory problem because it is dependent on the altitude a person lives so I assume it is set from the factory where it works for most people.
Ed Wiget this video was great ! Took mine out the other day on my boat like yours and there was no power and it was sputtering. Already changed spark plug to a name brand one . Will try this , this week and hopefully get my boat ready for some winter catfishing ! Thanks for posting !!
dustin gray that def sounds like an air/fuel ratio problem. Let me know if this fixes it. I've had so many people message me this was the fix for them.
I'm sure you will love it. Ive actually been impressed that its lasted so long without any additional issues for being so cheap compared to other boat motors. I've never even changed the spark plug in all the years I've owned it.
@@sharpridgehomestead Yes I am enjoying it. I decided to buy this Hangkai because people are selling 1940 1.5HP Evinrude Motors for like $400. Honda 2HP for like $750 (almost close to brand new). Ridiculous prices now.
I just purchased this engine. My engine keeps turning off as soon as i lower the throttle what's wrong? Any idea I'm use same oil recommended for this motor ( oil mixture with fuel) I'm using 95 octane gasoline
It could be air fuel mixture. You could try to turn the screw 1/2 turn in one direction and see if it can start and idle better. If that doesn't work, turn it 1/2 turn back where it started and then go 1/2 turn again in the opposite direction you did the first time. See if that is better. If 1/2 turn doesn't work, try a full turn and see if that helps. Eventually you should find a spot that runs better with the octane of fuel you are using.
@@saadiqureshi i noticed you mentioned the octane rating being 95, first thing I would try is dump that gas out and use regular low grade unleaded gas. High octane gas in most engines today actually causes power loss. If that doesn't work, about the only other suggestion I would have, without actually seeing and hearing it running myself, would be to take it to a small engine repair shop that works on lawn mowers, weed eaters, chainsaws and that sort of thing. It could be something really simple and cheap to fix but it's about impossible to diagnose something over the internet.
if the motor is new I would almost bet that it is. My theory is that the air fuel ratio screw backs out during shipping or that it is set to an acceptable level at the factory which is at a different altitude than where you live. If its not new, it could be several things causing it. Any small engine repair shop should be able to fix it if you are unable to yourself, and the costs probably wouldn't be too much.
if it starts back up, that is more than likely the air fuel mixture. You could try to adjust it yourself using this video as a guide if you feel comfortable doing that sort of thing, or you could take it to any small engine repair shop and have them do it. The cost should be minimal.
Yes I still have it. I use it several times a year and haven't had any issues with it since I first bought it other than the air / fuel ratio. I think it's well worth the money.
@@Bowhunter88 i've never had to replace the clutch and I've never even changed the spark plug or pull rope. I keep the motor in a shed when not in use so its out of the weather. I think it does an acceptable job against the current .... I think i have a secondary video showing the speed using the gas motor is the same speed as my 50 lb thrust trolling motor on a lake that is narrow and long so it has pretty decent current in the main part where the video was recorded. I use this motor on a pelican raider boat.
@@sharpridgehomestead i also have a pelican raider with 54 lb thrust trolling motor and in the river by me if i go against the current with it i just stay in one place lol was just curious how this would do. Thanks for the replys
@@Bowhunter88 never a problem, since you have the same boat, I can tell you in calm waters like in a cove, it will raise the front of the pelican raider up enough if you are in the boat by yourself that it might scare you .... lol. I think the motor is great for what I use it for and its price point, but to be perfectly honest, If I had to do it over again today ... I would go with the bigger hangkai motor on this boat....cause I am crazy and kinda like some excitement every now and then lol
601dsr it depends on if it is running rich or lean. Probably the easiest way if you've never adjusted a carberator is to have someone hold the throttle Midway and try to turn the screw in until it either dies or runs worse, then back the screw out until it runs smooth. That point should be very close.
thanks for the comment, although I was aware of the mislabeled choke, it really was the carb air-fuel ratio which I fix later in the video and also show the mislabeled choke. In this video at the first part, the only way to get it to run was to have the choke set mid-way.
Although i agree most new gasoline motors need some sort of breakin period, this one would not have run for 10 hours without adjustments. Its been fine since this video with hundreds of hours on the lake and no other problems.
@@roxxerface i had to adjust the carb just to get it to start and run. It would fire and run 10-15 seconds at a time and that was about it. If you cracked the throttle any at all it would just fall on its face.
@@roxxerface yea, I've actually been thinking about upgrading to the larger version of this same motor. I've had pretty good luck out of it and it lasted longer than i anticipated it would last.
Thanks for watching and your comment. Although I agree both yamaha and mercury make great outboard engines, i've had no complaints out of this engine since I first bought it. Air/fuel ratio would probably need adjusted on any small engine since not everyone lives at the same elevation level.
Its a great motor for the price. Half the price of any other motor ive seen, even used. Also half the weight. Sure, you have to tinker with it here and there. If you're not tarded, its simple. after about 10hrs of use, I accidentally flipped the kayak in the bay, where the motor was submerged in saltwater. Took it home, cleaned it up the following day. started right up, no issues.
@@sharpridgehomestead did you change the fuel lines to accept ethanol? how often do you change the spark plug? whats your fuel-oil ratio? If i could have this thing run for THAT long, would be amazing.
@@BrewsterC42 still has the factory spark plug, still has the original fuel line, and I use about a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio (actually I just use the tiny gas can that came with it to mix fuel/oil so it has the little measuring thing on it....i think it is 50:1 though. Then I dump it into a larger 1 gallon gas can ... repeat until that can is full). I live on a lake, so I take it out at least once a week sometimes more often late march until october.
@@lpz3665 I've really been happy with mine, I originally bought it hoping it would last a year or two until I could afford something better but its still working today and it serves my purpose so I am in no hurry to replace it lol.
Beacause something like Honda cost 8 times the price of a Hangkai, parts are harder to get, they cost allot of money. Hankai weighs only 7 kilograms and have a built in tank. Hangkai parts are all over eBay and they are so cheap and the engine is so easy to maintain your kids could do it. I had my Hangkai outboard 7 years now and it is still running like new. I have 4 outboard engines, I know what I´m talking about. I just spent a little more last week and got me Suzuki DF6A. I love my Suzuki but when the wind picks up waves i better like Hangkai. Much safer and easier when going after my fishnet with a Hangkai.
Its a great motor for the price. sure you have to tinker with it here and there. If you're not tarded, its simple. after about 10hrs of use, I accidentally flipped the kayak in the bay, where the motor was submerged in saltwater. Took it home, cleaned it up the following day. started right up, no issues.
yes, I do still have it and use it. I've not really had any issues with it once I fixed the air fuel ratio from the factory. I don't get to use it as often as I would like but still run it a few times a year. The biggest tip I can give you for extending the life of this motor is don't let it sit with fuel in the tank or carb. So if there is going to be more than a week I don't use it, I drain the fuel tank then start it and let it run to get as much fuel out of the carb as possible. Now if I could just remember to do this same thing with my harbor freight chipper so I don't have to keep removing the carb and cleaning the jets lol
@sharpridgehomestead Thanks for the info, I just placed my order! I've noticed that with carburetors, you either never need to touch them or work on them way more than you want to.
@@CobblestoneYT that is true, at least for me this one has been no problems but I do keep the gas tank drained and start it to get the gas out of the carb if its going to go more than a few weeks without running. I forgot that when I was going through chemo and radiation treatment, I didn't even start it for almost 3 years but it started pretty easily when I did start it. Its been a pretty reliable engine for me.
Got my hangkai 3.6 a little over a week ago. First chance to get it out on the lake was today. Your motor, (the way you had it set up first) sounded exactly like mine. After your adjustment it sounds very nice unlike mine. My engine never idled. Had to run it at first with the choke almost all the way on. Once it warmed up I backed off the choke it seemed to run better. But it's stalled. I got it started back up I was only running like three quarters throttle and when it tried to stall again I caught it with a dose of full throttle. It happened about 5 more times I'm sure if I wasn't quick on the throttle it would have stalled. So I thought I would come on TH-cam and see if somebody wasn't messing with the idol or the mixture or even leaning out the oil mix a little bit. I'm very glad you made this video hopefully my mixture adjustment screw is in the same place and it fixes my problem. Thanks brother I'll keep you posted.
it seems to be a common problem with these so I am sure that is the case. The reason is that they can't pre-tune the air/fuel ratio for every possible altitude where they might be shipped. Usually when people buy "small engines" like chain saws, weed eaters, lawn mowers, etc they are usually assembled by a local shop/store and tuned before they are sold to someone locally (or at least somewhat tuned and adjusted for that general location) but when you buy something online that gets shipped from over-seas and stored in a warehouse to be shipped many states away ... this is the result.
@@sharpridgehomestead that certainly sounds like a possibility. Me I was thinking the manufacturer errors on the side of caution. When first cranked up I believe they want that motor as rich as possible both in the fuel oil mix and the air fuel mix for lubrication and limiting RPMs.
The funny part is everything I know about this motor came almost exclusively from customers on TH-cam and not the manufacturer.
@@LouLovesLyrics I've had mine 5 years now and once I fixed the air/fuel ratio ... I have not had a single issue out of it unless something happened last year and i don't know it yet (been fighting cancer the last two years and never even got the chance to start it last year). All I usually do religiously with this motor is drain all the fuel before winter and start it up and let it run until it gets the last bits of fuel burned up and it usually starts up easy in the spring with fresh fuel.
@@sharpridgehomestead sorry about your cancer brother. I'm facing skin cancer which is nothing they just keep cutting and freezing it off. Might have developed a prostate issue though got to go to the doctor and check that out. But gave my mixture a half turn counterclockwise motor started idling high enough to turn the prop. So I backed off the idle adjustment a couple turns and let it warm up. Then I backed off the idle a little more and let it run for about 15 minutes before it finally stoped on its own. One more little tweak of the idle screw and now it seems like it will idol forever. Thanks for all your help brother.
Thank you for taking the time and trouble to post a video I have two of these motors on order and I will be gathering all information from TH-cam videos to help me thank you so much
thank you for watching, they are great motors for the money ... mine is still running strong without any other issues.
How id your motor holding up
There the worse engines ever. Cheaply made shit.
Glad you fixed it. Most newer 2 strokes are tuned right on the raggedy edge of too lean for the EPA, and the Chinese one's are the worst of the bunch. First thing I do is break them in on 25:1 mix with marvel's mystery oil added in addition to the 2 stroke oil 2oz per 5 gallon can. Then I switch them to 32:1 still with Marvel's added, adjust the air/fuel mix, and only use premium gas because cheap US gas has no stabilizers and it goes bad in the can in a month.
Which is why so many people complain about Ethanol in the US but in most foreign countries it's a non-issue. Since it takes so long to ship gas to those countries on tankers all their gas has stabilizers in it. In the US it goes from the refinery straight to the pump and is gone in a week so only Premium has stabilizers.
I have the same boat and motor. My motor will start to hesitate once it gets warm. I'm going to try this adjustment. Thanks for posting.
mine runs like a top now ... I have had it out at least 25 times after this video and it has never stalled or died. I'm thoroughly impressed with how well it has done considering the lower cost.
Billof Right
I just got one of these for my son's Quest Angler 8. I had to turn out the mixture screw just over a full turn to get it to run best. Also, if the gas cap is too tight, it doesn't vent properly for whatever reason. Runs great now on a stand. Hopefully, it runs as good in thd water!
Thanks for sharing. These seem to be solid motors that once you get the air fuel adjusted for your location they have very few issues. One thing I left out of videos inadvertently is don't forget to drain fuel from the tank and carb during any extended periods of not using, like over winter or like me while in cancer treatment. Or add some type of fuel stability additive. This keeps moisture in the fuel from corroding the carburator
Remember, the cooling water pump does not run unless the prop shaft is turning.
The centrifugal clutch does not engage until the rpms come up, so the output shaft does not turn the impeller.
Idling, with the prop still will deprive the cylinder of coolant.
tom
Does your weed eater over heat? Didn't think so. Simple no longer than 5 mins. At idle and you'll be f.i.n.e. FINE! Go troll elsewhere you Goon.
Thank you, very helpful. Bought it as well, followed "Boiler Dan's" instructions too. Then during the break in process my engine had exactly these hick-ups. Did the carburetor adjustments and now it's running perfect. !!!
you're welcome .... glad you found this video useful. Stop back and see me ... I post all kinds of helpful information.
Thanks, I have to change my inlet and outlet fuel lines. I know the inlet line is completely submerged, but what about the outlet line....?
What are wrong with your fuel lines? I never changed mine and its been a few years since i did this video and honestly the engine has never given me any more issues.
@@sharpridgehomesteadI was out on the lake the other day coming in and I noticed a fuel leak, when I got around to checking them today I noticed gas tank was loose and both lines were partially severd. Black line with filter was at bottom of tank, not sure about the other...
Should both lines be submerged in tank or just the one with the filter attached...?
@@ballader4life give me a few minutes to run out and look. I was about to head out that way anyways.
@@ballader4life my gas tank is drained and i used a flashlight to look down fuel cap hole. I only see one fuel line on bottom of tank. Bad thing is i can't really see around the inside of the tank .. Even my mechanics mirror wont fit down there. I hate to say either way but knowing how fuel systems work, if one is a suction line it would be touching the bottom and the return/overflow line wouldn't matter if it touched bottom or not.
I have the Hangkai 3.6, the choke is labeled backwards, on is off and off is on. Chinglish, when the choke is on the air flow to the carborator is choked off.
Thanks man!
I was having the same issues. I followed someone else's recommendation and replaced the Torch L7T spark plug with a Champion CJ8Y. However, factory specs called for a 0.9-1.0 mm gap (0.035-0.040 in.). The plug it came with was set at less than a 0.5 mm gap, so I set the gap to 0.035 on the new plug. I also made the mixture a bit richer by a quarter turn out, then another eighth of a turn out. (3/8 turn out, altogether.) It ran better but still some occasional hesitation. I loosened the gas cap and now it runs better. So, I think there is a venting problem with the gas cap design. That's my next project. It's a sweet, simple engine.
thanks for the comments and additional tips for others to try. I guess I just got lucky with mine, I haven't had any issues with it since I set the air/fuel ratio and its still running on the same spark plug (i think I may have adjusted the gap before I did the air fuel ration mix but I can't remember now). Also, thanks for watching!
Another small tip is to use 10w40 oil in the lower.. I’ve picked up another 1 mph just by using synthetic motor oil 10w40 in the lower.. creates less drag allowing this little henkai to rev up a little quicker.. the rpms even sound higher. 34 hours on mine so far and no issues. She doesn’t even run hot
Noticed my gears were very tight. Had to turn pretty hard to rotate the prop half a turn to get to the cotter pin. My rubber gasket looks like it was too big and part of it was sheared off almost uniform around the entire circumference. So I will be changing that fluid regularly might give your idea a try next time.
@@LouLovesLyrics yea these are made in china so don’t expect quality.. but they do ok for what they are. I’ve since blown up the power head and decided to rebuild a little 5hp seahorse outboard i was given. Much better now
@@mikecorleone6797 the 2 people I have found that seem to know the most about two stroke motors, that own these 3.5 or 3.6 hangkai motors, (Ed Widget and Boiler Dan) have had their motors for multiple seasons. Both of them like myself immediately felt like they were running rich. Different theories for this. One was manufactured at high altitudes. Mine was manufacturer was erroring on the side of caution, delivered motors set to run rich for two reasons. One guaranteeing that the motor would not reach its maximum rpm, second that more two-stroke oil than the engine was designed for would be flowing through and over the most critical services when it was first started. Either way after adjustment motor seems to be running just fine.
After 1 hour I disassembled the lower unit and found metal flakes in the oil. So I replaced it with fresh oil. I suspect this motor will need a lot of maintenance.
But it has so far past two tests that I purchased it for. It did move my 14 ft inflatable boat efficiently, (and I will be performing another performance test now that it's running properly). Number two I was able to load the 14 ft vessel and the outboard motor onto the back of my adventure motorcycle. And it will surely make some interesting off shore fishing scuba diving videos launching off beaches in Florida from the back of a motor cycle. Just a crazy idea I had. The only thing that makes this possible is the ultralight two-stroke motor I have invested only $250 in.
The boat was originally purchase to be a dinghy for my sailboat and I have a 5 horsepower Honda 4 stroke, but the four stroke will not fit on the back of my motorcycle with fishing gear and hookah scuba rig.
I will be launching this spring Diving and fishing of bird creek beach and the reefs near there I will also launching off of Jax Beach at The reef where the old Pier was I will also be launching off the beach at the Guana preserves for some of the cleanest water of the north Florida Atlantic coast.
It looks like the sailboat will be launched at Fort Walton beach because that's where I will be working. The dinghy and the five horsepower will be out there but the motorcycle will not.
Stay tuned.
Hi, I have hangkai 3.6hp with the same problem as you, can you explain to me in detail what I have to do step by step? Thank you
starting at 2:20 in the video, I use a 13 gallon trash can next to an outdoor patio railing with the motor mounted to the railing (kind of unique but you need to find a way to mount the motor and have it in water ... you could even do this on a lake with the motor mounted to a boat but its more difficult). Once that is done, you remove the 4-6 screws that holds the two plastic motor covers together and separate them, use a string or something to support the side that has the fuel so the hoses don't collapse or get pinched together. You also need to remove the breather cover. With the breather cover removed and the motor covers separated, that exposes the air fuel adjustment screw which is the screw right next to both of the fuel lines where it connects to the carburetor. Start the motor with the choke on and a cold engine and let it idle a few minutes so it reaches operating temperature. Turn the choke off by moving the black plastic choke lever all the way down. If the engine dies with the choke off, you will need to start it back up with the choke on again and do an initial adjustment first with the choke on. The easiest way to adjust the air fuel ratio is with the motor at wide open throttle. Turn the adjustment screw in until you hear the rpms change then back it out slightly until the motor smooths out. It will be an obvious sound change both times. With the air fuel ratio set at wide open throttle, it should also work with no throttle and all the way through the entire throttle range. So check that the motor idles ok and also slowly increase the throttle from idle to wide open. If the motor doesn't stall and it sounds like its running smooth. You are done and you can put it back together. If the motor doesn't run smooth at all throttle ranges, then you will need to repeat the process and try again. You will more than likely get it right the first time but if you are new to working on engines, it might take a couple of tries. If you are having troubles, you can also try to move the air ratio screw in or out in micro increments and test until it works best through all throttle range, i.e. you set it at wide open throttle but it idles rough then try to move the idle adjustment screw out or in 1/8 of a turn and retest.
Thank you for the answer, I will try
@@TONYZDANDY it sounds more complicated than it really is ... good luck and lemme know if you have any troubles.
I tried all morning to no avail, I think I even made the situation worse, the engine makes a louder noise now. I tried to accelerate to the maximum as he suggested by turning the carburetor screw in every sense but the minimum is never established. My engine doesn’t stay on if the choke lever isn’t ON. Unfortunately it’s my first time and I have zero experience, I don’t know what to do !!!
@@TONYZDANDY is the engine new or has it been sitting for a while with gas in it? Usually if an engine won't run unless the choke is on, that means its not getting enough fuel. On carberated engines, that can happen if it had gas in the carberator that goes bad. It can become scaly and clog up the carburetor jets. The only fix at that point is to disassemble the carburetor and clean it manually. That's something that usually requires someone with more experience (not saying its not impossible to DIY carburetor cleaning with no experience but is harder than adjusting it)
Well thanks I know I have worked on two-stoke engines my entire life. I would just like to know a starting place before adjusting the fuel mixture. If someone has one of these
Motors & runs without problems, would you please check how many turns out from closed
Your adjustment screw is set at & post back. That is all I,m asking. Thank you!
did your motor come in? Did you have any issues with it?
I wish one of you guys that has there motor running good post a comment on what your
Screw adjustment is set at. In other words how. Many turns out from closed. I have a motor
Coming in next week. It would help many, with a good starting point. I know they can very from motor to motor & elevation. But it would be a good starting point.
Thanks. I know that method used to be used in older carberated motors but i doubt the tolerences are that exact in this motor. At least with mine, it was set close enough it would start and idle and even made it through the break in period they asvise you to do just fine. It was only when i took it out on the lake and was pushing a load that the air/fuel ratio was obviously wrong. I'd advise you to make sure you have tools on your first outing or 2 so your trip doesn't get cut short. Its pretty easy to adjust carb pushing the load you need to push on the lake at 1/2 or wide open throttle.
when the water jacket leaks it shorts out the engine kill terminal witch is located directly under the cylinder head. It come equipped with a rubber jacket. But this doesn't prevent the terminal from grounding enough time to time. The fix is bury it in silicone. It will leak it is the short fall of the motor. The 6 hp is so much better. Like 4 time the engine.
actually there is a video showing that using jb weld professional 500 temp product around the water jacket after cleaning up the cheap failed sealant and waiting 24 hours to dry as per directions and hasn't leaked one bit according to him. Just saying....
Just to let everyone know who's reading these comments the true horse power of this motor is not 3.5 horsepower it is really about a 1.5 horsepower outboard motor So when you're looking at buying this outboard look around at the brand name used and new 1.5 and 1.8 horsepower outboards as well Being a 2 stroke adjusting the fuel mixture and the carburetor can give you anywhere from 1.3 horsepower up to 1.8 horsepower with this particular engine.
yea, there is some misconception about how HP is actually measured. Two trains of thoughts, going by the engine cc or going by the drivetrain/finaldrive. For instance, I can build a car engine to be 500HP but how much of that actually makes it to the wheels? There will be some HP loss or gains depending on the drivetrain/finaldrive, correct? HP would be different at the wheels depending on if it is an automatic transmission with disc plates that can slip vs a standard transmission with steel gears that lose very little power. With that in mind, this engine is 49cc which at the engine converts to 1.5076923076923077 HP. And there is a 2.08 to 1 gear ratio to the prop, so at the prop the HP is 3.136 HP. I didn't factor in the advertised operating range of 4,000 - 5,000 rpm which can cause that 3.136 HP at the prop value up or down depending on where it falls.
How exactly do you know this? Do you have an engine dyno? Do you know the difference between prop horse power and flywheel horse power? Or did you just read it on the internet?
when people say make the oil/gas mixture richer, does that mean add more oil? or add more gas?
It means add more gas but I have seen the term used incorrectly often. Technically, being rich or lean is the ratio of fuel vs air. Rich means there is a higher concentration of gas (too much fuel) compared to air, lean means there is a lower concentration of gas (too little fuel) compared to air. A rich mixture is often identified by fouled spark plugs, excessive smoke out of the exhaust, and a lot of carbon build up on valves. Hope this helps.
What if I can start it but I can't get it to stay idle with out having to give it a little gas
A couple questions....is it brand new or have you owned it a while? Did it sit a long time with gas in the tank? The problem you describe sounds more like a carburetor issue, maybe the jets are restricted or the float valve needle is getting stuck. It could even be the air fuel ratio but im kinda leaning more toward a carb issue until i know more.
@@sharpridgehomestead I just bought a few days ago I'm in the break in period right now.
It may work itself out after the breakin period. When you buy a new motor, they are not broke in which really means they are factory tight. After its broke in, the bearings seat and this loosens up the engine somewhat. If its still doing the same thing after the breakin period then it could be the air fuel mixture ratio which is different for each altitude. If that is correct, then it could be some other issue in the fuel delivery system.
thanks just bought one and want no problems!
After 3 plus years how is it going with your motor?
@@thornyturtleranch4u Very Good! Thanks!
The fuel lines were rubbish and perished quickly,my motor run the sme way till i swapped the fuel lines with more robust lines and swapped the supply and fuel lines around .they were back to front
I'm going to check out mine hard to start cold. Great video mybe in the summer you'll post an update.
Ben I live on the lake. I probably had this boat out 30+ times after this video and never had any other issues with it dying or being hard to start. The air / fuel ratio isn't even a factory problem because it is dependent on the altitude a person lives so I assume it is set from the factory where it works for most people.
Ed Wiget this video was great ! Took mine out the other day on my boat like yours and there was no power and it was sputtering. Already changed spark plug to a name brand one . Will try this , this week and hopefully get my boat ready for some winter catfishing ! Thanks for posting !!
dustin gray that def sounds like an air/fuel ratio problem. Let me know if this fixes it. I've had so many people message me this was the fix for them.
Ed Wiget will so. Just borrowed my bros metal barrel so I can test it. Will let you know !
Bass Raider! High five, got one too.
I'm sure you will love it. Ive actually been impressed that its lasted so long without any additional issues for being so cheap compared to other boat motors. I've never even changed the spark plug in all the years I've owned it.
@@sharpridgehomestead Yes I am enjoying it. I decided to buy this Hangkai because people are selling 1940 1.5HP Evinrude Motors for like $400. Honda 2HP for like $750 (almost close to brand new). Ridiculous prices now.
I just purchased this engine. My engine keeps turning off as soon as i lower the throttle what's wrong? Any idea I'm use same oil recommended for this motor ( oil mixture with fuel) I'm using 95 octane gasoline
With this method will i be able to fix this or is there something else with my engine?
It could be air fuel mixture. You could try to turn the screw 1/2 turn in one direction and see if it can start and idle better. If that doesn't work, turn it 1/2 turn back where it started and then go 1/2 turn again in the opposite direction you did the first time. See if that is better. If 1/2 turn doesn't work, try a full turn and see if that helps. Eventually you should find a spot that runs better with the octane of fuel you are using.
I'll try hopefully it works for me 🤞😔
I tried doing nothing helped any more thing that can fix this?
@@saadiqureshi i noticed you mentioned the octane rating being 95, first thing I would try is dump that gas out and use regular low grade unleaded gas. High octane gas in most engines today actually causes power loss. If that doesn't work, about the only other suggestion I would have, without actually seeing and hearing it running myself, would be to take it to a small engine repair shop that works on lawn mowers, weed eaters, chainsaws and that sort of thing. It could be something really simple and cheap to fix but it's about impossible to diagnose something over the internet.
I do own a hangkai 2t 4hp (74.6cc) and got the same problem, is it also caused by wrong air fuel ratio?
if the motor is new I would almost bet that it is. My theory is that the air fuel ratio screw backs out during shipping or that it is set to an acceptable level at the factory which is at a different altitude than where you live. If its not new, it could be several things causing it. Any small engine repair shop should be able to fix it if you are unable to yourself, and the costs probably wouldn't be too much.
@@sharpridgehomestead the motor runs smoothly now after break in.
@@sharpridgehomestead the motor runs smoothly now after break in.
@@limjiajye8086 awesome to hear. Thanks for the update.
Loosen the gas cap.
The vent is not working.
That could be a root cause solution that helps someone else so thanks for posting. But mine was actually air fuel mixture.
I can’t pull start so what wrong
I have no idea ... but a gas engine only takes 3 things to run, fuel, spark, oxygen ... so one of those things is missing
hi
motor stopped while apply to acceleration and leave it
what to do please?
if it starts back up, that is more than likely the air fuel mixture. You could try to adjust it yourself using this video as a guide if you feel comfortable doing that sort of thing, or you could take it to any small engine repair shop and have them do it. The cost should be minimal.
Do you still have the motor and how is it running?
Yes I still have it. I use it several times a year and haven't had any issues with it since I first bought it other than the air / fuel ratio. I think it's well worth the money.
@@sharpridgehomestead do you have to replace the clutch often? And how does it do against a current?
@@Bowhunter88 i've never had to replace the clutch and I've never even changed the spark plug or pull rope. I keep the motor in a shed when not in use so its out of the weather. I think it does an acceptable job against the current .... I think i have a secondary video showing the speed using the gas motor is the same speed as my 50 lb thrust trolling motor on a lake that is narrow and long so it has pretty decent current in the main part where the video was recorded. I use this motor on a pelican raider boat.
@@sharpridgehomestead i also have a pelican raider with 54 lb thrust trolling motor and in the river by me if i go against the current with it i just stay in one place lol was just curious how this would do. Thanks for the replys
@@Bowhunter88 never a problem, since you have the same boat, I can tell you in calm waters like in a cove, it will raise the front of the pelican raider up enough if you are in the boat by yourself that it might scare you .... lol. I think the motor is great for what I use it for and its price point, but to be perfectly honest, If I had to do it over again today ... I would go with the bigger hangkai motor on this boat....cause I am crazy and kinda like some excitement every now and then lol
Which way do you turn the screw?
601dsr it depends on if it is running rich or lean. Probably the easiest way if you've never adjusted a carberator is to have someone hold the throttle Midway and try to turn the screw in until it either dies or runs worse, then back the screw out until it runs smooth. That point should be very close.
Your running it with the choke on, the label is backwards on these models.. on position means your Motors running off means the choke is on
thanks for the comment, although I was aware of the mislabeled choke, it really was the carb air-fuel ratio which I fix later in the video and also show the mislabeled choke. In this video at the first part, the only way to get it to run was to have the choke set mid-way.
Check the tank vent.
i've heard of others mention that to but for mine, it was def the air fuel ratio
I should drive on of or on chuck
You should have broke it in for 10 hrs before use.
Although i agree most new gasoline motors need some sort of breakin period, this one would not have run for 10 hours without adjustments. Its been fine since this video with hundreds of hours on the lake and no other problems.
@@sharpridgehomestead would it idle at 1/4 throttle for 30 min to an hour at 30 : 1 fuel mix in a barrel? thats how I broke mine in
@@roxxerface i had to adjust the carb just to get it to start and run. It would fire and run 10-15 seconds at a time and that was about it. If you cracked the throttle any at all it would just fall on its face.
@@sharpridgehomestead good thing you got your problem solved!
@@roxxerface yea, I've actually been thinking about upgrading to the larger version of this same motor. I've had pretty good luck out of it and it lasted longer than i anticipated it would last.
Best fix is to sell it and buy a used Yamaha or mercury for about the same you spent on a new henkai
Thanks for watching and your comment. Although I agree both yamaha and mercury make great outboard engines, i've had no complaints out of this engine since I first bought it. Air/fuel ratio would probably need adjusted on any small engine since not everyone lives at the same elevation level.
Its a great motor for the price. Half the price of any other motor ive seen, even used. Also half the weight. Sure, you have to tinker with it here and there. If you're not tarded, its simple. after about 10hrs of use, I accidentally flipped the kayak in the bay, where the motor was submerged in saltwater. Took it home, cleaned it up the following day. started right up, no issues.
@@BrewsterC42 I agree, it's a great motor for the price. I have no complaints and this is the 3rd year I've used mine.
@@sharpridgehomestead did you change the fuel lines to accept ethanol? how often do you change the spark plug? whats your fuel-oil ratio? If i could have this thing run for THAT long, would be amazing.
@@BrewsterC42 still has the factory spark plug, still has the original fuel line, and I use about a 50:1 fuel/oil ratio (actually I just use the tiny gas can that came with it to mix fuel/oil so it has the little measuring thing on it....i think it is 50:1 though. Then I dump it into a larger 1 gallon gas can ... repeat until that can is full). I live on a lake, so I take it out at least once a week sometimes more often late march until october.
NEW FUEL CAP..! Vent it
thanks for the tip, it might help someone else. I haven't had a single issue since I adjusted the air-fuel ratio
@@sharpridgehomestead cool...i got mine ordered. Its the red weed eater one. On a sundolpin pedal boat. Looking for this next weekend.
@@lpz3665 I've really been happy with mine, I originally bought it hoping it would last a year or two until I could afford something better but its still working today and it serves my purpose so I am in no hurry to replace it lol.
why not spend a little bit more and get something good like a honda or a merc lol....
Beacause something like Honda cost 8 times the price of a Hangkai, parts are harder to get, they cost allot of money. Hankai weighs only 7 kilograms and have a built in tank. Hangkai parts are all over eBay and they are so cheap and the engine is so easy to maintain your kids could do it. I had my Hangkai outboard 7 years now and it is still running like new. I have 4 outboard engines, I know what I´m talking about. I just spent a little more last week and got me Suzuki DF6A. I love my Suzuki but when the wind picks up waves i better like Hangkai. Much safer and easier when going after my fishnet with a Hangkai.
Sounds awful.
Trash motor, very bad outboard motor, bought in amazon, dont lost your money
Its a great motor for the price. sure you have to tinker with it here and there. If you're not tarded, its simple. after about 10hrs of use, I accidentally flipped the kayak in the bay, where the motor was submerged in saltwater. Took it home, cleaned it up the following day. started right up, no issues.
Do you still have this motor and use it by chance? I was thinking of buying one but wasn't sure if they would hold up
yes, I do still have it and use it. I've not really had any issues with it once I fixed the air fuel ratio from the factory. I don't get to use it as often as I would like but still run it a few times a year. The biggest tip I can give you for extending the life of this motor is don't let it sit with fuel in the tank or carb. So if there is going to be more than a week I don't use it, I drain the fuel tank then start it and let it run to get as much fuel out of the carb as possible. Now if I could just remember to do this same thing with my harbor freight chipper so I don't have to keep removing the carb and cleaning the jets lol
@sharpridgehomestead Thanks for the info, I just placed my order! I've noticed that with carburetors, you either never need to touch them or work on them way more than you want to.
@@CobblestoneYT that is true, at least for me this one has been no problems but I do keep the gas tank drained and start it to get the gas out of the carb if its going to go more than a few weeks without running. I forgot that when I was going through chemo and radiation treatment, I didn't even start it for almost 3 years but it started pretty easily when I did start it. Its been a pretty reliable engine for me.