I had my FE lock up on a trip to Ireland about 6 months ago. The usual hacks didn’t work. I took it to my local repairman and he found the trouble. A loose wire in the battery box. $85 and it’s working again. I love this camera. I have an FM2n as well, but I prefer the FE. I like the meter better.
I purchased a Nikon FE. It came with no batteries, and only the M90 would work. I got 2 1.5 volt batteries, install them and I didn't help. So I went out import a 3 volt Button cell battery installed it and the cameras work perfectly ever sense. I'm not saying this is the problem, it made very well be the electronics. It's rear, but these cameras have been known to have overtime electronic problems. But for a few dollars. it may be worth a try. I hope it works out for you.
What can happen is that the mirror rest point (i.e. when it is up after you press the shutter release) can become "gunked" - I don't have a better word. The thing is that the mirror gets stuck and the whole exposure then locks up. Try cleaning off the mirror rest point - the top of the internal part of the camera - just scrape it with your finger nail. Be careful, you might accidentally trigger the focus screen release, if you do, just push it back up using the metal frame and not the focusing screen itself. I'm pretty sure this will fix your problem with the FE.
From what I'm aware one of the main differences between the FE and the FE2 is that the newer camera has printed circuit boards meaning greater toughness if it gets bashed around, but the original FE should be an easy solder job for a camera repair shop. An FE2 may be unrepairable if parts are needed now.
If built like a Nikon, then a mechanical camera is always going to last longer. Remember that solid state electronics was just getting started in those years. Nearly all those problems of manufacture are fixed now.
Mechanical Cannons are pretty reliable, but the budget electronic models are known for very poor reliability. AV-1 ranks high on that list and I think the original AE-1 often have issues.
Hello, Andrew. Given that (& I am assuming here) that you're still resident in the States, the best people to resolve that electronic shutter release is KEH; of course, it'll be a cost, but on balance, preferable to having yet another paperweight on your desk. The problem with all electronic devices - be they partial or completely reliant upon integral wiring is that those self-same wire components can work loose over time, & without knowing a device's history, you're leaving yourself wide open. Personally, I'd have it repaired (which should include re-calibration of all shutter speeds). It's too nice a camera to disregard....
This is one of those useless videos where the isolated experience of one guy with one camera is carelessly generalized and projected onto a whole class of cameras. So for counterpoint. I bought a new FM when they first came out, and I "upgraded" every time when a new version issued. I eventually ended up with an FE2, mostly shooting sequences with an MD-12 motor drive. I much prefer the meter readout of the FE/FE2 using the traditional dial and pointer system rather than the three diode indicators in hard-to-see red of the FM series. I was also given an FE because it had been well smoked in a house fire. It worked fine without a CLA. I’m embarrassed to admit that my FE2 has never seen a CLA, and 40 years later, it works fine as well. So will your FE mysteriously fail like his, or survive with no issue like mine, after being force-fed roll after roll of Ektachrome at 10 seconds a roll? I don't know, and neither does his guy.
How is your "isolated" experience with 2 cameras any different than mine? Let us not ignore the fact you are trying to remember something that happened 40 years ago and memory is notoriously unreliable. You are also comparing an FE to and FE2 so there are pretty big differences between the two. I always appreciate comments that have info I missed or add some new perspective, but your long ambling comment did none of that.
Battery contacts. Battery switch. These cameras are really well made, they just start to fail when they're FORTY SEVEN YEARS OLD... Saying this as a FM fan btw
I used a Nikon FE with MD-12 motordrive wfor more than ten years without any issues whatsoever. Took thousands of photos with it whitout failure. You were just unlucky or used it the wrong way
Definitely didn't "use it the wrong way" not even sure what that could mean. I suspect your usage was decades ago with a new camera. That may be the trick, FEs and most electronic shutter camera just suddenly die after 25-35 years. Many are just reaching that 'end time' window. I hear some can be fixed in China, but I don't have the money for such an attempt.
FM never failed, NEVER in 30+ years, FM2 that failed, the wonderful Titanium shutter F**ked up. I don't forgive. Transformed super camera into inert brick that would corst more to repair than to replace.L Nikon FE, I tried my friends FE. What could it do that my FM could not do. Nothing.. OK, most of my time on Silver I ran a bit of B+W but mostly slide Kodachrome or Agfa. With Slide you have to hit the shot first time, there is NO post processing. FM does that perfectly with up to a +- one stop on the neter. OK after that it is in the region of light meters and flashmeters which I have and used.
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
My FE2 had the same problem. I sent it to be professionally repaired; it needed some CLA but no replacement parts. Now it works fine
I had my FE lock up on a trip to Ireland about 6 months ago. The usual hacks didn’t work. I took it to my local repairman and he found the trouble. A loose wire in the battery box. $85 and it’s working again. I love this camera. I have an FM2n as well, but I prefer the FE. I like the meter better.
I purchased a Nikon FE. It came with no batteries, and only the M90 would work. I got 2 1.5 volt batteries, install them and I didn't help. So I went out import a 3 volt Button cell battery installed it and the cameras work perfectly ever sense. I'm not saying this is the problem, it made very well be the electronics. It's rear, but these cameras have been known to have overtime electronic problems. But for a few dollars. it may be worth a try. I hope it works out for you.
Loved my Fe cameras but both shutters stuck. Went to the F3hp and have been shooting it for 10 years now.
I hear nothing but good things about the F3s. I would like to pick up a F3T.
What can happen is that the mirror rest point (i.e. when it is up after you press the shutter release) can become "gunked" - I don't have a better word. The thing is that the mirror gets stuck and the whole exposure then locks up. Try cleaning off the mirror rest point - the top of the internal part of the camera - just scrape it with your finger nail. Be careful, you might accidentally trigger the focus screen release, if you do, just push it back up using the metal frame and not the focusing screen itself. I'm pretty sure this will fix your problem with the FE.
I looked at the camera and I don't think this is the issue. The top ridge is pretty clean and the shutter works fine on the M90 mode.
From what I'm aware one of the main differences between the FE and the FE2 is that the newer camera has printed circuit boards meaning greater toughness if it gets bashed around, but the original FE should be an easy solder job for a camera repair shop. An FE2 may be unrepairable if parts are needed now.
Know of anyone who does these repairs?
What brand is your FM2 strap?
It is home made.
@@andrewsmithphoto Cool looking
If built like a Nikon, then a mechanical camera is always going to last longer. Remember that solid state electronics was just getting started in those years. Nearly all those problems of manufacture are fixed now.
Did you clean the battery contacts with a pencil eraser?
Cleaned them with a few things (they looked pristine to begin with) and it had no effect.
@@andrewsmithphoto hmm, might not be worth a cla then. Or just get creative with bulb mode. 😂
I've had the same experience. Never had any of my Canons shutter fail.*
Mechanical Cannons are pretty reliable, but the budget electronic models are known for very poor reliability. AV-1 ranks high on that list and I think the original AE-1 often have issues.
Hello, Andrew. Given that (& I am assuming here) that you're still resident in the States, the best people to resolve that electronic shutter release is KEH; of course, it'll be a cost, but on balance, preferable to having yet another paperweight on your desk. The problem with all electronic devices - be they partial or completely reliant upon integral wiring is that those self-same wire components can work loose over time, & without knowing a device's history, you're leaving yourself wide open. Personally, I'd have it repaired (which should include re-calibration of all shutter speeds). It's too nice a camera to disregard....
This is one of those useless videos where the isolated experience of one guy with one camera is carelessly generalized and projected onto a whole class of cameras. So for counterpoint. I bought a new FM when they first came out, and I "upgraded" every time when a new version issued. I eventually ended up with an FE2, mostly shooting sequences with an MD-12 motor drive. I much prefer the meter readout of the FE/FE2 using the traditional dial and pointer system rather than the three diode indicators in hard-to-see red of the FM series. I was also given an FE because it had been well smoked in a house fire. It worked fine without a CLA. I’m embarrassed to admit that my FE2 has never seen a CLA, and 40 years later, it works fine as well. So will your FE mysteriously fail like his, or survive with no issue like mine, after being force-fed roll after roll of Ektachrome at 10 seconds a roll? I don't know, and neither does his guy.
How is your "isolated" experience with 2 cameras any different than mine? Let us not ignore the fact you are trying to remember something that happened 40 years ago and memory is notoriously unreliable. You are also comparing an FE to and FE2 so there are pretty big differences between the two. I always appreciate comments that have info I missed or add some new perspective, but your long ambling comment did none of that.
@@andrewsmithphoto if you don't get the FE fixed, how do you really know what's wrong with it ?
Battery contacts. Battery switch. These cameras are really well made, they just start to fail when they're FORTY SEVEN YEARS OLD...
Saying this as a FM fan btw
I used a Nikon FE with MD-12 motordrive wfor more than ten years without any issues whatsoever. Took thousands of photos with it whitout failure. You were just unlucky or used it the wrong way
Definitely didn't "use it the wrong way" not even sure what that could mean. I suspect your usage was decades ago with a new camera. That may be the trick, FEs and most electronic shutter camera just suddenly die after 25-35 years. Many are just reaching that 'end time' window. I hear some can be fixed in China, but I don't have the money for such an attempt.
FM never failed, NEVER in 30+ years, FM2 that failed, the wonderful Titanium shutter F**ked up. I don't forgive. Transformed super camera into inert brick that would corst more to repair than to replace.L Nikon FE, I tried my friends FE. What could it do that my FM could not do. Nothing.. OK, most of my time on Silver I ran a bit of B+W but mostly slide Kodachrome or Agfa. With Slide you have to hit the shot first time, there is NO post processing. FM does that perfectly with up to a +- one stop on the neter. OK after that it is in the region of light meters and flashmeters which I have and used.
The titanium shutters with the honeycomb pattern do seem to be more fragile from what I have heard.