I hope you glued all your joints. I think you should have used 2x6 wood for roof. Then cut an arc so side to side roof has a bit of a curve. So curve would be about 2". At side the roof would be same height as your 2x4. Then center would be 2 inches higher. This would help with rain/melting ice runoff.
Plaster can be found both inside and outside homes. Exterior cement plaster is used in the construction of buildings, and it doesn’t need to be waterproofed because it is made of cement. It is also a very strong material, and even without paint, it can withstand extreme outside conditions. foami camper - TH-cam
Pretty cool. Found your vids because I wanted to see if there's a template out there. Looks like it's all about maximum clearances for the cab and box side and then just fixate on weight and esthetics
As one who has installed steel roofs on cabins I can tell you that even though you have the rubber bushings on those screws they should be attached from the ridges in the steel because water runs off of the ridges.
thats really smart! I would have drilled through the ridges if i could have, but my studs from the framing didnt line up with the ridges so I had to put the screws off the ridges in order to hit the stud. so far i’ve been good for a couple of rain storms. thanks for the tip! i’ll keep that in mind for future projects
@@HondroB being its a mobile unit i think you went about it the right way by putting the screws low. i've put on a few metal roofs and most manufactures say you can do it both ways. no worries.
I’m gathering ideas for a build this summer, you guys did such a great job, really top shelf, mainly and mostly the father/ son inaction was awesome, God speed
thanks! I really appreciate that! if you have any questions about design ideas or anything like that dont hesitate to ask any questions, more than happy to share what works/doesnt on my camper!
I would pull that corrugated metal off the roof. There is no long term way to seal the seams for snow or wind allowing water in(I tried mastic tape and polyurethane and both failed. You need a solid membrane, preferably one piece and it needs to overlap the sides. You need a proper roof jack. Look up a dickinson marine deck fitting or something like it. It won't work on corrugated metal but the problem you'll continue to experience is products that come out of caulk tubes will all fail due to movement, expansion and contraction, UV damage, Water, etc. You need a mechanical connection. Move your roof vent to on top of the metal as you said. Best of luck to you.
You make some awesome points here! I think for a short term fix I am going to caulk the cracks. I saw liquid rubber makes a solution for this with a special tape water seal. I also hardly use my roof rack but it holds my surf board perfect so its all i need.
Would you mind eventually posting what the actual measured weight of the shell is? What brand are those jack posts? Very nice build, thanks for showing
hey for sure! i am estimating the shell weight to be about 1100 pounds, also i bought the jackposts from home depot! it’s a standard jack post but I got some holes drilled in it to mount it to the truck
@@timtim-ef7xu Yeah I am, I weighed the truck empty before putting the camper on so I just need to take it to a dump soon to get it weighed officially. I did a lot of math to know its around 1100 pounds but the weigh test will let me know for sure - ill keep you posted when i find out
@@HondroB did you end up getting the weight on this? I have been studying your build and I like it a lot. I want to incorporate some of your ideas into my plans
Looking at the framing, this camper looks like it's going to be really quite heavy! Please note that this is simply an observation and in no way is it meant as a criticism!
The frame looks stout. In regards to people say screw into the rib, I've always put the screws on the flat part like you did and 4 roofs later never had a leak. My only question is how are you keeping water out of the edge where the roof meets the wall?
cool thats awesome to know about the roof thanks! I havent had any issues yet either. I had the roof sheet metal overhang the walls by about a 3/4 inch on each side. I left the ridges open and water can get in/under the sheet metal. The reason i did this was because I was worried if I blocked it with weather stripped/m seal /foam then if water got underneath the steel somehow there would be no way for it to drain out, so i left it open thinking water would get in but also be able to get out easier. I’m not sure if thats the right thing to do but no issues on my roof so far and ive been in a few good downpours. Cheers!
Hey So I have had a few leaks, I am starting to believe it is because water is pooling around roofing screws. My suggestion, is if you have any roof vents or holes in your roof, Caul the crap out of them! If you have roofing screws where pooling might occur, caulk the screws, also caulk any overlaps in the metal siding, or use something to seal the laps. Hope it works out for you! Shoot me a DM on insta if you have more questions or if you want to send a photo of your rig, love to check er out!
@@HondroB if water is getting in around the screws it is because the washers were crushed from over tightening. Those rubber washers should not be mushroomed or bulged at all. It might be leaking from leaving your seams open between the roof and siding too. Water will wick across horizontal surfaces if there's enough of it.
Is this what you used for the panels? 14 ft. Classic Rib Steel Roof Panel in Galvalume www.homedepot.com/p/Metal-Sales-14-ft-Classic-Rib-Steel-Roof-Panel-in-Galvalume-2313541/204289049 I'm trying to renovate a smaller slide in truck camper, and I haven't decided what to replace the old rv siding with. Are the steel panels you used heavy? And do you remember about how much you spent for all of the paneling? If anyone has any recommendations for skinning a camper, please reply. I've thought about going to sign shops, semi truck suppliers, and rv parts suppliers.
Hey! That stuff you linked looks very similar, but I used mainly 8 foot sheets and it was just from my local home hardware store. I mean you certainly have plenty of options so I know it can be confusing what will be best. So far I am happy with the metal, it hasn't been to loud in the rain and I'm not mad about the added strength. I personally went with steel and it cost me around $300-$400 CAD. If you do decide to go with metal i would say aluminum is your best bet. Also it can be a little bit tricky to work with so maybe just look and your camper and see how hard the cuts will be. If you want to work with wood for easier cuts you can always fiberglass wood which would waterproof it and give you some good strength! I hope this helps!
3rd generation RV builder ..I have worked in several truck camper factories for the major names...this camper is built wrong in every way from begining to end...framing roofing siding are all wrong..whatever you do..don't build like these people..I promise this camper will break his truck and is already holding water under the metal and starting to rot..anyone who said this was a good build has zero experience or expertise..sorry guys.
Hey thanks for the feedback! I tried to mention it in some of my videos but when I started, I had no idea what I was doing. The main purpose of my videos is to share all the things I do wrong and maybe provide some inspiration that other people can build campers too. I really wish I had the opportunity to speak to someone like you before my build but I didn’t have that opportunity. For anyone out there that can learn from my mistakes specifically what could I have done better? Cheers!
Awesome job lads! Very impressive!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I hope you glued all your joints. I think you should have used 2x6 wood for roof. Then cut an arc so side to side roof has a bit of a curve. So curve would be about 2". At side the roof would be same height as your 2x4. Then center would be 2 inches higher. This would help with rain/melting ice runoff.
Thanks for the drawings!
Yes no problem! I’m gonna send an update soon too!
Plaster can be found both inside and outside homes. Exterior cement plaster is used in the construction of buildings, and it doesn’t need to be waterproofed because it is made of cement. It is also a very strong material, and even without paint, it can withstand extreme outside conditions.
foami camper - TH-cam
I bet that is a great solution! I wish I did more waterproofing from the start!
that's a great Dad there.
asesome dad!
Pretty cool. Found your vids because I wanted to see if there's a template out there. Looks like it's all about maximum clearances for the cab and box side and then just fixate on weight and esthetics
As one who has installed steel roofs on cabins I can tell you that even though you have the rubber bushings on those screws they should be attached from the ridges in the steel because water runs off of the ridges.
thats really smart! I would have drilled through the ridges if i could have, but my studs from the framing didnt line up with the ridges so I had to put the screws off the ridges in order to hit the stud. so far i’ve been good for a couple of rain storms. thanks for the tip! i’ll keep that in mind for future projects
@@HondroB being its a mobile unit i think you went about it the right way by putting the screws low. i've put on a few metal roofs and most manufactures say you can do it both ways. no worries.
I noticed that as well. I've been roofing for the better part of 22 years and agree.
I’m gathering ideas for a build this summer, you guys did such a great job, really top shelf, mainly and mostly the father/ son inaction was awesome, God speed
thanks! I really appreciate that! if you have any questions about design ideas or anything like that dont hesitate to ask any questions, more than happy to share what works/doesnt on my camper!
@@HondroB thanks brother that’s very generous, and I will. Great job
I would pull that corrugated metal off the roof. There is no long term way to seal the seams for snow or wind allowing water in(I tried mastic tape and polyurethane and both failed. You need a solid membrane, preferably one piece and it needs to overlap the sides. You need a proper roof jack. Look up a dickinson marine deck fitting or something like it. It won't work on corrugated metal but the problem you'll continue to experience is products that come out of caulk tubes will all fail due to movement, expansion and contraction, UV damage, Water, etc. You need a mechanical connection. Move your roof vent to on top of the metal as you said. Best of luck to you.
You make some awesome points here! I think for a short term fix I am going to caulk the cracks. I saw liquid rubber makes a solution for this with a special tape water seal. I also hardly use my roof rack but it holds my surf board perfect so its all i need.
Looking good H, Grand piece of workmanship. 👌
aye thanks Patrick!
너무 멋집니다 나도 저렇게 만들고 싶습니다
It looks really good. Good job.
Thanks!
Fantastic build!!
Thank you!
Very cool truck camper build I’m from the Windsor Ontario area love the build series
Thanks for the support! Appreciate it, hope all is good back in OT.
Mad Love! Congrats bro, sickest project ever!
thanks bro!
That thing is gonna weigh a ton. 2000 lbs in a Tacoma is going to suck.
Haha it’s not exactly that heavy but yes it’s too big for a Tacoma to be honest
You're windows are backwards, glass window should be front n screen back for wind flow.
makes sense, I place them like that so i could slide them open and closed from bed.
Would you mind eventually posting what the actual measured weight of the shell is? What brand are those jack posts? Very nice build, thanks for showing
hey for sure! i am estimating the shell weight to be about 1100 pounds, also i bought the jackposts from home depot! it’s a standard jack post but I got some holes drilled in it to mount it to the truck
@@HondroB are you planning on actually weighing it?
@@timtim-ef7xu Yeah I am, I weighed the truck empty before putting the camper on so I just need to take it to a dump soon to get it weighed officially. I did a lot of math to know its around 1100 pounds but the weigh test will let me know for sure - ill keep you posted when i find out
@@HondroB did you end up getting the weight on this? I have been studying your build and I like it a lot. I want to incorporate some of your ideas into my plans
Looking at the framing, this camper looks like it's going to be really quite heavy!
Please note that this is simply an observation and in no way is it meant as a criticism!
for sure! it's definitely not light, the finished weight is about 1000-1100 lbs
The frame looks stout. In regards to people say screw into the rib, I've always put the screws on the flat part like you did and 4 roofs later never had a leak. My only question is how are you keeping water out of the edge where the roof meets the wall?
cool thats awesome to know about the roof thanks! I havent had any issues yet either. I had the roof sheet metal overhang the walls by about a 3/4 inch on each side. I left the ridges open and water can get in/under the sheet metal. The reason i did this was because I was worried if I blocked it with weather stripped/m seal /foam then if water got underneath the steel somehow there would be no way for it to drain out, so i left it open thinking water would get in but also be able to get out easier. I’m not sure if thats the right thing to do but no issues on my roof so far and ive been in a few good downpours. Cheers!
what did you use for the siding and where did you buy it from?
it is steel siding and i just got it from my local home hardware.
How heavy is it?
Roughly 1200 lbs empty
Did you end up having any leaks? I'm was curious on using similar roofing for my build
Hey So I have had a few leaks, I am starting to believe it is because water is pooling around roofing screws. My suggestion, is if you have any roof vents or holes in your roof, Caul the crap out of them! If you have roofing screws where pooling might occur, caulk the screws, also caulk any overlaps in the metal siding, or use something to seal the laps. Hope it works out for you! Shoot me a DM on insta if you have more questions or if you want to send a photo of your rig, love to check er out!
@@HondroB if water is getting in around the screws it is because the washers were crushed from over tightening. Those rubber washers should not be mushroomed or bulged at all. It might be leaking from leaving your seams open between the roof and siding too. Water will wick across horizontal surfaces if there's enough of it.
What jacks did you use?
I used my own jacking system which you can see in my Part 3.
What's the weight of the camper?
roughly a 1100 pound shell. I havent officially weighed it but i will soon and i’ll keep ya posted
Screwing metal on wrong, it screws thru the ridges never the valleys
got it! thanks for the tip!
Depends on the manufacturer.
Dude, overkill and too much weight with the 2x4s
Well at least I can say the thing is nails.. definitely a bit too heavy and would do it with more 2x2 if I do it again
Is this what you used for the panels?
14 ft. Classic Rib Steel Roof Panel in Galvalume
www.homedepot.com/p/Metal-Sales-14-ft-Classic-Rib-Steel-Roof-Panel-in-Galvalume-2313541/204289049
I'm trying to renovate a smaller slide in truck camper, and I haven't decided what to replace the old rv siding with.
Are the steel panels you used heavy? And do you remember about how much you spent for all of the paneling? If anyone has any recommendations for skinning a camper, please reply. I've thought about going to sign shops, semi truck suppliers, and rv parts suppliers.
Hey! That stuff you linked looks very similar, but I used mainly 8 foot sheets and it was just from my local home hardware store.
I mean you certainly have plenty of options so I know it can be confusing what will be best. So far I am happy with the metal, it hasn't been to loud in the rain and I'm not mad about the added strength. I personally went with steel and it cost me around $300-$400 CAD. If you do decide to go with metal i would say aluminum is your best bet. Also it can be a little bit tricky to work with so maybe just look and your camper and see how hard the cuts will be.
If you want to work with wood for easier cuts you can always fiberglass wood which would waterproof it and give you some good strength!
I hope this helps!
@@HondroB Thank you so much for the info and quick reply!
sad..............
3rd generation RV builder ..I have worked in several truck camper factories for the major names...this camper is built wrong in every way from begining to end...framing roofing siding are all wrong..whatever you do..don't build like these people..I promise this camper will break his truck and is already holding water under the metal and starting to rot..anyone who said this was a good build has zero experience or expertise..sorry guys.
Hey thanks for the feedback! I tried to mention it in some of my videos but when I started, I had no idea what I was doing. The main purpose of my videos is to share all the things I do wrong and maybe provide some inspiration that other people can build campers too. I really wish I had the opportunity to speak to someone like you before my build but I didn’t have that opportunity. For anyone out there that can learn from my mistakes specifically what could I have done better? Cheers!