I really like the shift to problem-solving-type videos. Watching your thought process through the project highlights the “what” and “why”, and is more than just the “how”. Thanks, Bob!
@@DS321oI have a magnet that are about the size of a nickel that I have on my 20v Milwaukee drill that I use to stick it to my bench, it won't come off without force. It will absolutely hold a pole and a camera like that with zero issues.
That's a good suggestion but it's very wasteful when it comes to material. Bobs solution, as usual, not very time efficient 🤣 but, saved loads of waste.
@@simonolphin, A couple dozen 1" x 1" steel plates screwed into the ceiling and a 3D printed adapter/base with an embedded magnet sounds pretty efficient and effective to me.
I love watching the problem-solving process. Instead of watching you come up with a solution that may not apply to me, my brain is engaged, thinking of possibilities and ways I can solve similar problems.
Been watching you for years now and as much as i really love your project videos, I REALLY like these "got a problem, chill with me while i figure a solution" style you've been doing more. I hope you keep sprinkling these in as you encounter them, its really great to see someone else's problem solving mind at work. Thank you Bob
Picture the broom handle holders that feature a captive rolling piece on a ramp. The broom handle is inserted from the bottom, pushing the rolling stop up. when the space is big enough, the broom handle slides past the roller. Then as you let go of the broom handle, the combination of the rolling piece and the ramp, wedges the handle in place. If your "clamp" was two of these facing each other and the largest space between the rollers was just wider than the thickness of the joist closest to the clamp and narrowed as you moved towards the end, you could twist the entire contraption just enough to get the rollers to catch on either side and wedge it in place. Releasing would just be lifting it up and letting gravity pull the rollers down, releasing the clamp. No need for any hardware other than the 1/4x20 needed to mount your camera adapter.
@@ToddRafferty me too! There was a compliant mechanism video from… someone (I forget who)… where they talked about how to design that part and 3D print it out of TPU.
You forgot about another force... Squeeze. You could have a handle with a cable connected to it like a brake lever to transfer the force to the clamp. ❤
Only issue there, is that he wants to use the telescoping nature of the camera pole. If you size the cable to be long enough for full extension, when shortened the cable may then hang down into shot. Obviously that can then be managed as well with an elastic that always pulls cable slack up, but it does mean making the think jamnkier, more complicated an ugglier.
I’ve really been enjoying these types of videos you’ve been making lately. It gets my brain working to try to find creative solutions to issues. My art studio is basically a 60 square foot clean room off of my workshop. Filming in there is a chore.
I'm 2:30 in, and I already like this. I love problem-solving videos like this. Even if the problem is not necessarily that big of a problem. I just like seeing the creativity and ingenuity involved in reaching a solution.
Lol @ 1:10, "I'm not gonna do that." Good for you! I love solving little problems by creative thinking, not by spending money, even if the problem's already been solved. The joy is in the journey. I guess your channel name sums it up!
I congratulate you for not turning to the internet's favorite "engineering" solution and just slapping magnets onto everything. Seriously, I appreciate the thought put into a mechanical solution.
Of note when you're using that 3d camera for future shots; because the image is stitched together from multiple cameras, plus the housing and whatever, the software in the camera does some trickery to blend the shots together - particularly when you pan the shot up so you don't see the pole, or directly opposite from that looking "down" (in the orientation you're using it, anyway). You can see the distortion particularly well with the cut mat you have under there. So it might be useful to have the camera rotated if you want to capture a horizontal surface below the camera. Or reuse that solution with a slightly different camera mount to get top-down shots of small parts if that's what you want. Really cool build!
I had somewhat of the same situation but I needed to move a spotlight around. I just stapled strips of velcro to the ceiling and more velcro on a bracket for the light. It’s been working for about 4 years without an issue. I do like how your clamp looks way better than strips of velcro on my ceiling.
The two solutions that immediately came to mind for me were a large magnet and a push latch mechanism like what you might use for a self locking cabinet. I think your prototype 1 is basically that latter solution. Cool to see it made from scratch! Great if you need a custom size.
You can do the same thing with zero moving parts by exploiting some leverage. I have some "self gripping hangers" I got from Amazon that demonstrate this principle wonderfully. They can be moved around with ease, but as soon as you put weight on them they lock in place and will not let go. The more weight you put on them the tighter they grip. You can search for the product above, but I will try and put a link in a reply comment to this one (it will probably get flagged as spam). I think if you built a hook with the camera pole offset from the hook by a few inches that would give you more than enough leverage to firmly grip the device to a rafter, and there would be zero moving parts to wear or get sloppy. Take a look and see if it works.
My impression is you might have less issues with the foot geometry of the bulk of the foot was on the inside side of the pivot rather than the outside side, this way it would self correct into place more readily
Love seeing the process! Go ahead and search lifting clamps, they use gravity instead of tension and I think it could also be a great fit if you wanna do something similar in the future
He is reinventing the wheel. Your log skidding tong example is also represented in ironwork to lift steel. They're called Plate Lifting Clamps -- essentially a gripper that translates pulling effort into clamping force. Tongs are great, too.
I was thinking more of a flexible TPU featherboard clamp which releases when you push it up onto the joist further. Much more complicated, especially when factoring in the release mechanism and printing of the featherboard.
Consider printing a TPU band for the "spring". Then you don't have to source the perfect spring. The bands tension could be set by varying the infill percentage and/or by selecting narrower/wider groves along the clamp to anchor the band in. It could pretty much be a rectangular rubber band that stretches over the clamp arms and seats into groves on the outside of each clamp arm.
What if you stuck multiple steel plates on the ceiling every few feet, and just got a magswitch type of connection on the pole. Repositioning might make it smoother
Very nice - one other potential application for this kind of thing: put a light on it, and you can have a light you can position to fix any shadows you're finding get in the way of your work. Obviously, you've got a pretty decent lighting setup already, but for some shops this would be great, and even for yours you might at some point find yourself with a super niche setup where you have to be working in such a way that you throw a shadow over your workspace. For less established workshops this would also be a really good way to figure out where you need extra lights - use it as you get started, and then invest in permanent light fixtures over time.
Love this style of video as well. Different design with less moving parts: 2 prongs to straddle the joist rigid in place. rotating cam on each prong with light spring to pull to the inside. pull string attached to the other end of cam to one string to end of handle. pushes onto the joist easily, the more weight pulls down the tighter it gets. push up slightly and pull string it releases both cams and slides easily off joist. less printing, less moving parts. the larger the cams and wider the forked prongs the larger the object or joist it will hold onto. make it out of metal and it will hold hundreds of pounds.
I would have loved this about 10 years ago: videoing a band in a run-down house with multiple cameras mounted from the joists. It involved a lot of being on a ladder and moving cameras around.
Bob, you've really been singing my song these last two videos. I love this idea. I think there are so many folks that are inspired to make little videos - maybe they upload them, maybe they don't - but the bare joists / studs in many of our garages really really lend themselves to something like this. Kudos.
I was kinda expecting for the solution to be more akin to how tree pruning scissors work with the Blades situated on one end of the Pole and the Grip on the other... In this case though you'd use the Grip to open the normally closed Clamps instead of the other way around.
Loved the video for sure. Inventing something like this to solve an issue for yourself is what it's all about. I to love problem solving, Gives the brain a little workout.
nice solution; first thing that came to my mind at the beginning was (very unrealistically): build some kind of monorail network on your ceiling, so you can "hang" the camera-mount on it easily (like a ropeway) and also move it around the shop.
I highly recommend looking into 3d printed springs. It will be easy to test with your printer and can be scaled for many of the applications you've been using. Keep up the great work! I always look forward to seeing your projects!
Did something similar in my workshop for streaming. Used big magnet on bottom of monopod and some iron plates screwed into the joists at particular locations
Shows how then you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail. You have a woodworking shop and a 3D printer, so this path seemed obvious to you. I have neither, but I do have some parts I took off my bike so I would probably stay with the off the shelf clamp you considered at the beginning and add a cable and a brake lever to acuate the clamp remotely.
Hey Bob, long time watcher here. I hope a little critism is in order. I really enjoy your videos. There is almost something to learn or at least enjoy in your videos. This one i s no exception..... BUT thumbnail and title gave me no indication on what this video is actually about. So much so that I only clicked on the video as it was suggested for the fifth time and onyl because I had nothing better to do at that very moment. I know that your trying out different title and thumbnails over time. To see which one performs the best. I get that. That is why I am writing a comment. For the first time if I am not mistaken. Had I seen that the video was about clamping stuff, clamp geometry or something along those lines I would have reacted sooner to the video. But as I said I had no idea what the video was about. Anyways... thanks for your content and best Regards from Germany, Daniel
It was a non-issue for me. The actual amount was found to be 550 mg if I'm not mistaken. Which is like 1/10th of a teaspoon. Safe dosage searches online say 10 to 30 GRAMS per day. I don't seem to have any blood sugar or hyperglycemia issues from that amount. They also have unflavored versions. IIRC the maltodextrin found in LMNT wasn't an added sweetener by them it was in a flavor they used.
Watching the video I just couldn't help but see the similarity between what you made and a bicycle brake. In fact, my first thought for solving your problem would be to use the full brake system with a ratchet and release mechanism on the handle. Squeeze it together and it ratches and holds on to the joist, then squeeze a bit and release a latch or something and it comes off.
fyi, if you want to use this to film yourself and the table in front of you, then if the camera is pointed straight down at the table then you get the stitched together seem of the two camera sensors, which will never be perfect and there will be weird glitches in the footage of what youre trying to show on the table. But if you just use this new clamp and stick the camera at an angle, so its say pointed with the top of the camera pointed at the edge of the table with one lens facing you, the other side lens faces the table, and the seem is hidden at the edge of the table.
@ with all due respect, duh. Something like a magnetic washer, or “o”-shaped magnet that can be screwed to all the possible wooden surfaces is what I referring to.
@@jacobdmBut then you'd either have to reach the rafters to nail in some washers where you want to place your camera or use the places that already have some steel hardware large enough to be grabbed securely by the magnet. I don't know Bob's workflow exactly, but with a shop this size I imagine there are either too many spots he might want to film from or they are changing all the time for him to consider this path.
@@RoachRider, perhaps, but steel washers and screws are quite cheap and 15 minutes on a step stool would have nearly every plausible location in the shop covered. Lots of ways to solve this problem.
Very well done Bob, I was wondering if a piece of spring steel like a tool holder could be used to clamp onto the ceiling ? I do enjoy your "problem solving" videos.
Thinking of another 'you-specific' solution: A two-piece bracket. The 'male' piece attaches to the camera mount. It would be 'L' shaped, with the vertical leg having a 'V' shaped slot that would engage with the corresponding 'V' slot on the 'female' piece. You could print a bunch of the female pieces and just screw them into various places around the shop. To disengage, you simply lift up the camera mount a couple of inches to separate the two pieces. (We're talking about a modified 'French Cleat' here, where gravity keeps the pieces together......)
Always love the problem solving, but me I'd just 3d print 6-8 mounts and spread them through out the shop. make it similar to power outlets, then you can move the camera easily from one spot to another.
Hey Bob have you thought about making a pocket hole jig type clamp but with longer arms? One with the width set to grab your joists like the material the jig holds to drill the holes into
Bob, would some type of grip tape (sand paper, tread tape) on the surface that fits against the joist improve how it hangs? or maybe the flexible filament you printed with is enough to do this now?
Nice solution. I assume a magnet on a metal strip attached to the joists was out of the question. Gluing or screwing washers or other things to joists would likely work as well.
Not sure if you know but LMNT has maltodextrin in it. If it doesn’t bother you then no big deal, but for some it is a deal breaker. No dodgy ingredients should include maltodextrin.
For the monopole to disappear from a 360 camera the camera does not need to be pointed straight down. The camera can be at any angle. The monopole just needs to come straight out of the camera. Using a ball head and changing the length of the monopole can place the camera in many places without having to move it to another joist.
Brilliant, Bob! Fantastic work! 😃 I need to create something similar... But different. My shop has normal selling, it's not like yours. It's going to be way more difficult... 😕 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Curious is the plans are available. I’ve only recently purchased a printer, and haven’t moved to multiple pieces either but and bolt connectivity. So was curious the tolerances for holding nuts. Before a buy a bunch of bolts at different lengths
I really liked this video. I would say this is one of your better ones you made,. What is the make and model of your camera? I’m looking for one for myself. You could remove all the nuts from the part and save weight by having the parts threaded. And use flathead cap screws might save a little weight too.Kind of give it a cleaner look too. Look forward to your next video.
Interesting solution. I'd probably just go with metal hanger strap screwed in a few places along the bottom side edge of the joists. Then just need a mount with a decent magnet.
Love your videos I wonder if instead of the thing - use strong magnets and a steel plate in appropriate places would be more simple as some people may not have exposed joists
Having a wooden "L" piece with a french cleat and the other part of the french cleat on "strategic" spots should do the trick. Yes it makes you modify a bit your ceiling but it's cheap, fast and should work fine.
This made me think of cammed edge clamps so gravity provides the clamping force and you just have to lift it up to make it release. And maybe a button to hold them open but that would be very low force
The simplest solution is actually just mounting cheap steel sheet/plates everywhere and using a strong magnet on the end of your camera rod. Cool idea though!
@@mikebond6328 Why would you do the entire shop? That's silly. Yes his solution is more flexible because it can go anywhere, but realistically you wouldn't need more than maybe 10 places.
What is the quick attach mount you are using? I use peak designs for my camera gear but would like something I can just clip into and mount i wonder if the mount will work with peak design clip.
Smart but to complicate, I think Magnets are The easy way, stick some on strategic locations in the beams and one on the camera stick and you are good to go
Maybe try forming gears on the bottom of each finger. Then their motion is synchronized. Then all you need the tension for is clamping, and not worry about them flopping over.
glad to see i am not the only one who immediately thought.....just use magnets....even if you were worried about not having strong enough magnets, and wanted to over engineer a simple task....electromagnets are insane and you can use it with a switch or remote controlled.
I really like the shift to problem-solving-type videos. Watching your thought process through the project highlights the “what” and “why”, and is more than just the “how”. Thanks, Bob!
Yep I came here to say the same thing! Very interesting the see the thought process and the evolution!
Yep, totally agree. It's helpful when learning how to solve problems to watch other people solve problems.
metal strips along the joists and then a strong magnet on the camera pole.
that wouldn't work at my house once my mother-in-law visits because the joist would violently shake and potentially drop the camera
Not a bad alternative
@@DS321oI have a magnet that are about the size of a nickel that I have on my 20v Milwaukee drill that I use to stick it to my bench, it won't come off without force. It will absolutely hold a pole and a camera like that with zero issues.
That's a good suggestion but it's very wasteful when it comes to material. Bobs solution, as usual, not very time efficient 🤣 but, saved loads of waste.
@@simonolphin, A couple dozen 1" x 1" steel plates screwed into the ceiling and a 3D printed adapter/base with an embedded magnet sounds pretty efficient and effective to me.
I love watching the problem-solving process. Instead of watching you come up with a solution that may not apply to me, my brain is engaged, thinking of possibilities and ways I can solve similar problems.
Been watching you for years now and as much as i really love your project videos, I REALLY like these "got a problem, chill with me while i figure a solution" style you've been doing more. I hope you keep sprinkling these in as you encounter them, its really great to see someone else's problem solving mind at work. Thank you Bob
Picture the broom handle holders that feature a captive rolling piece on a ramp. The broom handle is inserted from the bottom, pushing the rolling stop up. when the space is big enough, the broom handle slides past the roller. Then as you let go of the broom handle, the combination of the rolling piece and the ramp, wedges the handle in place. If your "clamp" was two of these facing each other and the largest space between the rollers was just wider than the thickness of the joist closest to the clamp and narrowed as you moved towards the end, you could twist the entire contraption just enough to get the rollers to catch on either side and wedge it in place. Releasing would just be lifting it up and letting gravity pull the rollers down, releasing the clamp.
No need for any hardware other than the 1/4x20 needed to mount your camera adapter.
This was my first immediate thought too. Glad I'm not alone
@@ToddRafferty me too! There was a compliant mechanism video from… someone (I forget who)… where they talked about how to design that part and 3D print it out of TPU.
You forgot about another force... Squeeze. You could have a handle with a cable connected to it like a brake lever to transfer the force to the clamp. ❤
Only issue there, is that he wants to use the telescoping nature of the camera pole.
If you size the cable to be long enough for full extension, when shortened the cable may then hang down into shot.
Obviously that can then be managed as well with an elastic that always pulls cable slack up, but it does mean making the think jamnkier, more complicated an ugglier.
I’ve really been enjoying these types of videos you’ve been making lately. It gets my brain working to try to find creative solutions to issues. My art studio is basically a 60 square foot clean room off of my workshop. Filming in there is a chore.
I'm 2:30 in, and I already like this. I love problem-solving videos like this. Even if the problem is not necessarily that big of a problem. I just like seeing the creativity and ingenuity involved in reaching a solution.
Lol @ 1:10, "I'm not gonna do that." Good for you! I love solving little problems by creative thinking, not by spending money, even if the problem's already been solved. The joy is in the journey. I guess your channel name sums it up!
Exactly!
This is “I like to make stuff”
Not “I like to buy stuff”
I am absolutely loving these episodes with the awesome thought process and problem solving man. So fantastic
I enjoyed seeing your practical attempts before moving into fusion to figure out the problems!
I congratulate you for not turning to the internet's favorite "engineering" solution and just slapping magnets onto everything. Seriously, I appreciate the thought put into a mechanical solution.
😂 And not one LED either!
Of note when you're using that 3d camera for future shots; because the image is stitched together from multiple cameras, plus the housing and whatever, the software in the camera does some trickery to blend the shots together - particularly when you pan the shot up so you don't see the pole, or directly opposite from that looking "down" (in the orientation you're using it, anyway). You can see the distortion particularly well with the cut mat you have under there. So it might be useful to have the camera rotated if you want to capture a horizontal surface below the camera. Or reuse that solution with a slightly different camera mount to get top-down shots of small parts if that's what you want. Really cool build!
I had somewhat of the same situation but I needed to move a spotlight around. I just stapled strips of velcro to the ceiling and more velcro on a bracket for the light. It’s been working for about 4 years without an issue. I do like how your clamp looks way better than strips of velcro on my ceiling.
The two solutions that immediately came to mind for me were a large magnet and a push latch mechanism like what you might use for a self locking cabinet. I think your prototype 1 is basically that latter solution. Cool to see it made from scratch! Great if you need a custom size.
You can do the same thing with zero moving parts by exploiting some leverage. I have some "self gripping hangers" I got from Amazon that demonstrate this principle wonderfully. They can be moved around with ease, but as soon as you put weight on them they lock in place and will not let go. The more weight you put on them the tighter they grip. You can search for the product above, but I will try and put a link in a reply comment to this one (it will probably get flagged as spam).
I think if you built a hook with the camera pole offset from the hook by a few inches that would give you more than enough leverage to firmly grip the device to a rafter, and there would be zero moving parts to wear or get sloppy. Take a look and see if it works.
My impression is you might have less issues with the foot geometry of the bulk of the foot was on the inside side of the pivot rather than the outside side, this way it would self correct into place more readily
Love seeing the process! Go ahead and search lifting clamps, they use gravity instead of tension and I think it could also be a great fit if you wanna do something similar in the future
Take a look at how log skidding tongs work, the weight of the "pull" locks them in. A similar mechanism would work very well here.
He is reinventing the wheel. Your log skidding tong example is also represented in ironwork to lift steel. They're called Plate Lifting Clamps -- essentially a gripper that translates pulling effort into clamping force. Tongs are great, too.
Two feather boards that go around the joist. Shove it up, pull it down. No moving parts and it could be printed in one go.
I see also some possebilities with a few pieces of iron and some strong magnets
I was thinking more of a flexible TPU featherboard clamp which releases when you push it up onto the joist further. Much more complicated, especially when factoring in the release mechanism and printing of the featherboard.
Consider printing a TPU band for the "spring". Then you don't have to source the perfect spring. The bands tension could be set by varying the infill percentage and/or by selecting narrower/wider groves along the clamp to anchor the band in. It could pretty much be a rectangular rubber band that stretches over the clamp arms and seats into groves on the outside of each clamp arm.
What if you stuck multiple steel plates on the ceiling every few feet, and just got a magswitch type of connection on the pole. Repositioning might make it smoother
Because that would be too simple
Nice solution to your problem. Really cool to see you using the 3D printer for rapid prototyping.
I don't like 360 cameras because there's a distortion at the edges of the frame and it gives me serious vertigo
There's a 'dewarp' option that flattens the horizon.
Sick! I love the solution you came up with. Moving it from joist to joist almost looked effortless!
You sure that you don't create problems just so you can solve them? 😁 Love to watch your thought processes anyway. - Chris
I mean, probably, yeah. But I love to solve problems 🤷🏻 That's like a musician only listening to music, instead of also playing it themselves.
Very nice - one other potential application for this kind of thing: put a light on it, and you can have a light you can position to fix any shadows you're finding get in the way of your work. Obviously, you've got a pretty decent lighting setup already, but for some shops this would be great, and even for yours you might at some point find yourself with a super niche setup where you have to be working in such a way that you throw a shadow over your workspace.
For less established workshops this would also be a really good way to figure out where you need extra lights - use it as you get started, and then invest in permanent light fixtures over time.
Love this style of video as well. Different design with less moving parts: 2 prongs to straddle the joist rigid in place. rotating cam on each prong with light spring to pull to the inside. pull string attached to the other end of cam to one string to end of handle. pushes onto the joist easily, the more weight pulls down the tighter it gets. push up slightly and pull string it releases both cams and slides easily off joist. less printing, less moving parts. the larger the cams and wider the forked prongs the larger the object or joist it will hold onto. make it out of metal and it will hold hundreds of pounds.
I would have loved this about 10 years ago: videoing a band in a run-down house with multiple cameras mounted from the joists. It involved a lot of being on a ladder and moving cameras around.
Bob, you've really been singing my song these last two videos. I love this idea. I think there are so many folks that are inspired to make little videos - maybe they upload them, maybe they don't - but the bare joists / studs in many of our garages really really lend themselves to something like this. Kudos.
Another great problem solving video. I love this. Thanks for sharing Bob
I was kinda expecting for the solution to be more akin to how tree pruning scissors work with the Blades situated on one end of the Pole and the Grip on the other... In this case though you'd use the Grip to open the normally closed Clamps instead of the other way around.
Perhaps a larger version of a jewellers vice would work
Loved hearing you talk through the problems and possible solutions
Loved the video for sure. Inventing something like this to solve an issue for yourself is what it's all about. I to love problem solving, Gives the brain a little workout.
nice solution; first thing that came to my mind at the beginning was (very unrealistically): build some kind of monorail network on your ceiling, so you can "hang" the camera-mount on it easily (like a ropeway) and also move it around the shop.
I highly recommend looking into 3d printed springs. It will be easy to test with your printer and can be scaled for many of the applications you've been using.
Keep up the great work! I always look forward to seeing your projects!
Did something similar in my workshop for streaming. Used big magnet on bottom of monopod and some iron plates screwed into the joists at particular locations
Dude your last fire videos have been top tier. You inspire me to make more thangs and finally buckle down on starting my own videos
Great job Bob, Problem Solving at the great level
Shows how then you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail. You have a woodworking shop and a 3D printer, so this path seemed obvious to you. I have neither, but I do have some parts I took off my bike so I would probably stay with the off the shelf clamp you considered at the beginning and add a cable and a brake lever to acuate the clamp remotely.
Hey Bob, long time watcher here. I hope a little critism is in order. I really enjoy your videos. There is almost something to learn or at least enjoy in your videos. This one i s no exception..... BUT thumbnail and title gave me no indication on what this video is actually about. So much so that I only clicked on the video as it was suggested for the fifth time and onyl because I had nothing better to do at that very moment.
I know that your trying out different title and thumbnails over time. To see which one performs the best. I get that. That is why I am writing a comment. For the first time if I am not mistaken. Had I seen that the video was about clamping stuff, clamp geometry or something along those lines I would have reacted sooner to the video. But as I said I had no idea what the video was about.
Anyways... thanks for your content and best Regards from Germany, Daniel
What are you criticizing?
@@mikebond6328 that neither thumbnail nor title gave me any idea what the video is about. ;-)
thanks 👍
10:22 Did LMNT fix their maltodextrin issue?
It was a non-issue for me. The actual amount was found to be 550 mg if I'm not mistaken. Which is like 1/10th of a teaspoon. Safe dosage searches online say 10 to 30 GRAMS per day. I don't seem to have any blood sugar or hyperglycemia issues from that amount. They also have unflavored versions. IIRC the maltodextrin found in LMNT wasn't an added sweetener by them it was in a flavor they used.
Watching the video I just couldn't help but see the similarity between what you made and a bicycle brake. In fact, my first thought for solving your problem would be to use the full brake system with a ratchet and release mechanism on the handle. Squeeze it together and it ratches and holds on to the joist, then squeeze a bit and release a latch or something and it comes off.
Love the problem solving and project!
fyi, if you want to use this to film yourself and the table in front of you, then if the camera is pointed straight down at the table then you get the stitched together seem of the two camera sensors, which will never be perfect and there will be weird glitches in the footage of what youre trying to show on the table.
But if you just use this new clamp and stick the camera at an angle, so its say pointed with the top of the camera pointed at the edge of the table with one lens facing you, the other side lens faces the table, and the seem is hidden at the edge of the table.
I love your "problem-solving" videos. Keep it up! Well done!
really enjoying these iterative design process videos!
Why not just use Magnets? Seems odd you never thought of that.
Was just going to comment this. Magnets seem to be the easiest option
Because magnets don't stick to wood.
@ with all due respect, duh. Something like a magnetic washer, or “o”-shaped magnet that can be screwed to all the possible wooden surfaces is what I referring to.
@@jacobdmBut then you'd either have to reach the rafters to nail in some washers where you want to place your camera or use the places that already have some steel hardware large enough to be grabbed securely by the magnet. I don't know Bob's workflow exactly, but with a shop this size I imagine there are either too many spots he might want to film from or they are changing all the time for him to consider this path.
@@RoachRider, perhaps, but steel washers and screws are quite cheap and 15 minutes on a step stool would have nearly every plausible location in the shop covered. Lots of ways to solve this problem.
Very well done Bob, I was wondering if a piece of spring steel like a tool holder could be used to clamp onto the ceiling ? I do enjoy your "problem solving" videos.
Thinking of another 'you-specific' solution:
A two-piece bracket. The 'male' piece attaches to the camera mount. It would be 'L' shaped, with the vertical leg having a 'V' shaped slot that would engage with the corresponding 'V' slot on the 'female' piece. You could print a bunch of the female pieces and just screw them into various places around the shop. To disengage, you simply lift up the camera mount a couple of inches to separate the two pieces. (We're talking about a modified 'French Cleat' here, where gravity keeps the pieces together......)
Always love the problem solving, but me I'd just 3d print 6-8 mounts and spread them through out the shop. make it similar to power outlets, then you can move the camera easily from one spot to another.
Hey Bob have you thought about making a pocket hole jig type clamp but with longer arms? One with the width set to grab your joists like the material the jig holds to drill the holes into
So basically one of those wall mounts you use for your brooms?
What about a magnetic system
Really enjoying theese videos where you are making things you will be activly using!
Bob, would some type of grip tape (sand paper, tread tape) on the surface that fits against the joist improve how it hangs? or maybe the flexible filament you printed with is enough to do this now?
Nice solution. I assume a magnet on a metal strip attached to the joists was out of the question. Gluing or screwing washers or other things to joists would likely work as well.
Not sure if you know but LMNT has maltodextrin in it. If it doesn’t bother you then no big deal, but for some it is a deal breaker. No dodgy ingredients should include maltodextrin.
Can you explain what maltodextrin is. Why it is bad. How much is in LMNT and what safe dosage is?
i'm one of these guys with the exact same (ish) problem . very nice solution Sir !
For the monopole to disappear from a 360 camera the camera does not need to be pointed straight down. The camera can be at any angle. The monopole just needs to come straight out of the camera. Using a ball head and changing the length of the monopole can place the camera in many places without having to move it to another joist.
Love your solution! Much more exciting and modular and educational than my thought of stainless steel and magnets.
Stainless steel is not very magnetic.
@mikebond6328 looks like some types of stainless steel are magnetic and some aren't! and some can become magnetic after being cold worked.
Edge banding clamp at the end of a pole would be clutch
I’m really enjoying these problem solving videos, I have zero use for the thing you made but really enjoyed the video ! 🎉
Just finished jimmys video now time for bob
Brilliant, Bob! Fantastic work! 😃
I need to create something similar... But different. My shop has normal selling, it's not like yours. It's going to be way more difficult... 😕
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Curious is the plans are available. I’ve only recently purchased a printer, and haven’t moved to multiple pieces either but and bolt connectivity. So was curious the tolerances for holding nuts. Before a buy a bunch of bolts at different lengths
Something like a sheetrock grip could work too. Use the weight of the camera/stick as the leverage for the clamp.
I really liked this video. I would say this is one of your better ones you made,. What is the make and model of your camera? I’m looking for one for myself. You could remove all the nuts from the part and save weight by having the parts threaded. And use flathead cap screws might save a little weight too.Kind of give it a cleaner look too. Look forward to your next video.
Thanks! It's the X4 from Insta360.. happens to be on sale right now (affiliate link) amzn.to/4hVYT0B
Marius Hornberger made edge clamps that would have sufficed.
did you consider having a grab handle at the bottom. think trash pick up tool. Reverse it to open when you squeeze, and close when you let go.
Magswitch for the win
Excellent!
Things and stuff, two of my favorites!
Interesting solution. I'd probably just go with metal hanger strap screwed in a few places along the bottom side edge of the joists. Then just need a mount with a decent magnet.
Love your videos I wonder if instead of the thing - use strong magnets and a steel plate in appropriate places would be more simple as some people may not have exposed joists
Having a wooden "L" piece with a french cleat and the other part of the french cleat on "strategic" spots should do the trick. Yes it makes you modify a bit your ceiling but it's cheap, fast and should work fine.
This made me think of cammed edge clamps so gravity provides the clamping force and you just have to lift it up to make it release. And maybe a button to hold them open but that would be very low force
You could make a track system that you can slide around to the different areas
Another great problem-solving video, Bob~!
The simplest solution is actually just mounting cheap steel sheet/plates everywhere and using a strong magnet on the end of your camera rod. Cool idea though!
You think it would be simpler and cheaper to cover the entire shop ceiling in steel plate?
@@mikebond6328 Why would you do the entire shop? That's silly. Yes his solution is more flexible because it can go anywhere, but realistically you wouldn't need more than maybe 10 places.
What is the quick attach mount you are using? I use peak designs for my camera gear but would like something I can just clip into and mount i wonder if the mount will work with peak design clip.
I wonder if grabber reacher tool with some kind of locking mechanism would do the trick
your stuff really works
Very nice! I’ll take one! 🙌
That was literally an advertisement on how bad the camera quality was, even a Samsung phone has less pixelation
I didn’t see any pixelation. Are you watching the video on a samsung?
Smart but to complicate, I think Magnets are The easy way, stick some on strategic locations in the beams and one on the camera stick and you are good to go
Great demonstration or working the problem, not chasing a solution!
Thank you for showing that Insta360 doesn't have the quality that influencers try to tell us it has 😂
They should come with a package of Pepto Bismo!
Maybe try forming gears on the bottom of each finger. Then their motion is synchronized. Then all you need the tension for is clamping, and not worry about them flopping over.
Metal flat stock on each joist and magnet on the mount? Not the cheapest, but allow easy attachment, removal and adjustability.
Bottle caps, Glue, some short drywall screws, n some old hard drive magnets?
I'm gonna need one of those.
The clamp champ got even better!
An overhead monorail made of unistrut going down center of shop with a pivoting arm attached to trolley and magnetic camera mount
That is so cool. 👏🏻
The clamp with spring is a good idea, but i would have done the clamp using gravity for the clamping.
Nice video tho!
glad to see i am not the only one who immediately thought.....just use magnets....even if you were worried about not having strong enough magnets, and wanted to over engineer a simple task....electromagnets are insane and you can use it with a switch or remote controlled.