Do you use the straight walnut oil as your sanding lubricant? I have tired that but it fills the sanding paper so quickly I go through so much sanding paper… what am i doing wrong? Love your products and all the information you share with your videos!
On the FAQ page at doctorswoodshop.com site, I have summarized what I could learn from the medical literature The long and short of it is that there is no protein in the oil that I use and all of the nut antigens are proteins. Moreover, once solidified, any antigens that might be there would not be available to be taken in. I think the probability of an allergic response is very, very small. The surest course if you have a worry is don't use the oil.
Are you using cold pressed walnut oil or clarified oil in your polish? U/V radiation turns it from amber to clear. Davinci used walnut oil to seal his paintings, and a lot of them are 600+ years old and still around!
The way Paypal handles shipping is to set prices for weight ranges so there is some latitude. I refund any shipping overcharge. More often than not the shipping charge doesn't actually cover shipping. The customers prefer a slightly higher shipping cost and three day delivery than a slightly lower rate and two week delivery time. Glad you enjoyed the videos.
See American Woodworker "Understanding Wood Finishing," by Bob Flexner, page 76 "The Food Safe Myth." According to Flexner, all finishes are "food safe" when cured. "Salad Bowl Finish" evidently is varnish diluted with mineral spirits (wiping varnish). That said, I use walnut oil on my bowls, but have others that I used "wiping" varnish on, mixing 25% mineral spirits and 75% varnish (polyurethane).
This is an common question and one that woodworkers face every day. For the most part, I think Flexner is correct. The rub is that the cured surface doesn't last forever. Scratches and surface wear can expose new, uncured material. So, there is a release of volatile and non-volatile material through the life of the piece. The volatile compounds, including the most common mineral spirit formulations, are not especially dangerous in the tiny concentrations found in this case. Metallic drying agents are the more dangerous bits of wood finishes. These are metal ions like cobalt, cadmium and arsenic. These ions drive the polymerization of oils (non-drying oils) as well as some urethanes and other types of film finishes. The toxicity of these ions is well understood. Do these materials preset a risk? California's Prop 65 has installed a yes or no approach to that question. It's never that simple. How a bowl is used comes in to the discussion. Potato chips and M&M's will effect the finish less than vinegar-based salad dressing and salad forks. If there was an absolute answer to the "food safe" question, I would love to hear it. Finish is a choice we make. What I am sure about is that this finish will never need a Prop 65 warning label (for what that's worth) and that any bowl or platter I make that is intended for food related use gets a walnut oil or walnut oil/wax finish .
After the friction polishing of the oil wax, the polymerization is driven by the heat as well as light and the oxygen carried into the system during application. Secondly, the wax is not thick enough to be a gas-tight layer.
Do you use the straight walnut oil as your sanding lubricant? I have tired that but it fills the sanding paper so quickly I go through so much sanding paper… what am i doing wrong? Love your products and all the information you share with your videos!
Mike, for people who may be allergic or have nut allergies in general, would this walnut oil be a problem?
Richard
On the FAQ page at doctorswoodshop.com site, I have summarized what I could learn from the medical literature The long and short of it is that there is no protein in the oil that I use and all of the nut antigens are proteins. Moreover, once solidified, any antigens that might be there would not be available to be taken in. I think the probability of an allergic response is very, very small. The surest course if you have a worry is don't use the oil.
hey Mike. I've got the walnut oil and wax finish. I can't seem to get my finish anywhere near as nice as yours.
is it required to use a sanding lube? I just find it so odd. mine doesn't even look like I have a finish on
Beautiful finishing. Can you replace walnut oil with linseed oil? It is cheaper, and easier to get.
rimar2000 Osvaldo J. Schiavoni people alergic to nuts can be killed with walnut oil . Don't use it .
@@brayswoodturning5036 not everyone is allergic to nuts. Use discretion, not fearmongering.
Mike; Is the product safe for persons with nut allergies?
Are you using cold pressed walnut oil or clarified oil in your polish?
U/V radiation turns it from amber to clear.
Davinci used walnut oil to seal his paintings, and a lot of them are 600+ years old and still around!
I have watched several of your videos and learned a lot. Very well done. I went to order but your shipping prices are high in my opinion.
The way Paypal handles shipping is to set prices for weight ranges so there is some latitude. I refund any shipping overcharge. More often than not the shipping charge doesn't actually cover shipping. The customers prefer a slightly higher shipping cost and three day delivery than a slightly lower rate and two week delivery time. Glad you enjoyed the videos.
See American Woodworker "Understanding Wood Finishing," by Bob Flexner, page 76 "The Food Safe Myth." According to Flexner, all finishes are "food safe" when cured. "Salad Bowl Finish" evidently is varnish diluted with mineral spirits (wiping varnish). That said, I use walnut oil on my bowls, but have others that I used "wiping" varnish on, mixing 25% mineral spirits and 75% varnish (polyurethane).
This is an common question and one that woodworkers face every day. For the most part, I think Flexner is correct. The rub is that the cured surface doesn't last forever. Scratches and surface wear can expose new, uncured material. So, there is a release of volatile and non-volatile material through the life of the piece. The volatile compounds, including the most common mineral spirit formulations, are not especially dangerous in the tiny concentrations found in this case. Metallic drying agents are the more dangerous bits of wood finishes. These are metal ions like cobalt, cadmium and arsenic. These ions drive the polymerization of oils (non-drying oils) as well as some urethanes and other types of film finishes. The toxicity of these ions is well understood. Do these materials preset a risk? California's Prop 65 has installed a yes or no approach to that question. It's never that simple. How a bowl is used comes in to the discussion. Potato chips and M&M's will effect the finish less than vinegar-based salad dressing and salad forks. If there was an absolute answer to the "food safe" question, I would love to hear it. Finish is a choice we make. What I am sure about is that this finish will never need a Prop 65 warning label (for what that's worth) and that any bowl or platter I make that is intended for food related use gets a walnut oil or walnut oil/wax finish .
TheDoctorswoodshop pAlwy
Surely the oil can't polymerise if the wax is on top cutting off the oxygen?
After the friction polishing of the oil wax, the polymerization is driven by the heat as well as light and the oxygen carried into the system during application. Secondly, the wax is not thick enough to be a gas-tight layer.
Linseed oil turns black, walnut oil stays clear.