Recently switched to Klotz Super in my stock 066, 50:1, I can’t believe I didn’t switch sooner, noticeable difference over red armor, I’ll be trying klotz r-50 next only because of wisconsin winters, thanks for the video!
I run klotz techniplate mixed 65 :1 and have for 30 years. I put 12 years on my chainsaw pretty much the same on my weed eater my son raised 3 years straight on a big bore YZ85. Never one failure. No plug fouling or anything. I have also ran it in a couple other two-stroke dirt bikes but I usually don't keep them more than a year or three. Most other oils won't mix at 65:1 without failure. Klotz is King in my book. I run it in everything, it's in my Harley it's in my VW woods buggy it's in my street strip Monte Carlo. Great stuff. About the mix ratio, I started at 40:1 and would foul plugs. I run 90 + octane pure gas. I kept thinning the mixture until it quit fouling plugs. At 60:1 it would go a month then foul a plug. At 65:1 it never fouled one so I've always stuck with that mixture using 100% high octane fuel. The three plus years my son raced his YZ85, we tore it down and it look like new inside except the exhaust side of the rings were Warren a little thinner. Not bad for 3 years of racing practice riding and trail riding without never being rebuilt. My son can ride the wheels off a motorcycle so it never got any slack that's my experience with klotz for almost 30 years and the only two-stroke bikes I'd ever blown up was when using other oils and mixing to the required spec. Once I discovered clots in my twenties and figured what mixed ratio works for me, it's been smooth sailing since
I ran Maxxima 927 in one of MMWS ported 044's with similar results after 10 tanks. But it left a nice film in it upon tear down, and not quite so much build up on the piston head.
I've done several more tear downs with different oils. Check out my vids. Seems there are plenty of other oils better suited to a chainsaw. Cleaner burning with very nice film on tear down. Mobil 1 if you can find it, honda hp2, motul 800, 2R, Schaeffers, Red Armor.
I use 8002t off road since it is readily available and affordable on this side of the pond. Usually at 40:1 ish. I got build up with it at 33:1. I have to admit, tho, the bean juice smells fantastic!
Well I have ran this oil in an air cooled engine the super techniplate likes to be run very rich on oil like 5 to 6 oz a gallon and chainsaws run lean so it’s burning off the synthetic and the castor is getting stuck on the piston but there is only 20% castor so it’s not much
Bro , maybe this question out of topic , since you test many type of 2t brands , which one you recommended for the best protection for 2 stroke engine(high lubricity) .
here are several - mobil 1 2t, yamalube 2r, honda hp2, schaeffers 7000 or 9000. all 32 to 40:1 for mix ratio. I run more oil, not so much for more oil between the piston and cylinder but for the bearings.
@@Redbull661 i have had that conversation with serveral people thay the bottom end bearings would love oil but people are so hard headed these days. I'd rather have a small amount of spooge than not enough knowing bearings are bathing in oil
Try KLOTZ R-50 that is their top of the line premix only and has no caster bean oil in it flash point 550F . I have always had bad results with every brand of oil with mix caster bean oil. The cleanest best 2cycle lubes I feel are all 100% ester based example belray H1R , or maxima formula K2 as they don't need additives to stay mixed with the gas. Other oils need additives to keep the oil suspended in the gas. The additive does not act as a lubricant and in cheep oils can be up to 20%. Also for best film strength use a premix only oil when premixing not thin injector oil.
every other oil I've run 32:1 in these 661s has looked pretty much fine. This stuff was horrible in the saw. Good elsewhere I'm sure...otherwise they wouldn't sell the stuff. But horrible in the saw.
That's because it's got castor in it that saw cant scream like a supermini or 125! It burns best with vp racing fuels as well!!! Of course its gonna look like shit with pump gas in a little chainsaw at 32:1
36-1 thats crazy on a modern saw. I been running 50-1 as recommended in a work saw and so does everyone else I know, maybe its a uk v us thing. the less you fuss the better they run
Redbull661 thank you very much for the reply. Motul looked ok, but I wasn't nearly as impressed as I was with your Schaefers video. Is Red Armor still the favorite you've tested? FYI, I shared your Schaffer's video to a Facebook Group called, "Chainsaw Repair."
Red Armor changed their formula and from what I've seen online, not for the better. Schaeffers is great but I'd only run it at 32:1. Kind of a thin oil. That's just a guess. I simply haven't tested it higher. You gotta remember that you don't need a lot of oil for the film between the piston and cylinder. But do want it for the bearings. Every saw I've seen roasted has been run on 50:1. As far as Jack aka hotsaws101 goes. My only issue was the prices he quoted me were substantially higher than any other porter I've come across.
as for what oil I like. I like honda hp2 at 32-40:1 32-36:1 on larger saws. 40:1 for the rest. Then schaeffers 7000 or 9000 at 32:1. Maybe 36-40:1 in smaller saws like 50cc and smaller. As for others. I need to do more testing. I don't base my opinions on what I read. I look at REAL results. Tear downs. Thermocouple readings. Speed comparisons.
Redbull661 thanks, once again, for your insight. I mill with my 661. It’s still under warranty so I’ve been running the Stihl Platinum at 50:1 with 91 octane e-free rec gas. I’ve pulled the plug and muffler off a few times to look at the cylinder and it seems fine, but like you said, I’m concerned about the crank bearings. Once the warranty runs out, I’m going to run either the Schaefers 7000, Amsoil Saber or Motul 800. After watching your videos, I’m leaning towards the Schaefers. I’m no Hotsaws101 fanboy, but I do appreciate his passion and information. I’ve heard his port work is extremely expensive.
I’ve been running that VP 40/1 in my stock 661. It has a max flow and muffler mod. I like the way it smells and it seems pretty good. Have you tried it?
ran the saw more on it at 32:1. didn't care for the results. I am thinking they either changed the formula or you just can't run it at 32:1. see here opeforum.com/threads/hate-to-say-it.12226/
Running 36:1 is your first mistake. You can run 50:1 with klotz! Your just losing rpm by flooding your gas combustion with too much oil and losing rpm! Klotz beats amsoil any day as well.
Actually I’ve done test in an air cooled motorized bike engine that’s ported and piped, klotz super techniplate likes to be run 20:1 or 24:1 to leave a good film behind at 32:1 their was barely any film left behind after a hard run but now everything stays nice and happy
Holy piss, that doesn't look good. What are you currently recommending? I have been running the red armour and Motul, but it looks like I'll be skipping the RA from now on.
yeah it looked pretty good the first time I took it down. So either they changed the formula? Or just can't run it at 32:1. I run 32:1 not so much for the film between the piston and jug. But for the bearings. I like - th-cam.com/video/tL66tLLKuFg/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/QsecGq9Q52o/w-d-xo.html
@@Redbull661 the techniplate likes to be run super rich on oil to leave a good film behind like 5 to 6 oz a gallon if carbon isn’t an issue than this is the perfect oil but
I need some help guys. I was using the Blendzall 455 Ultra product , at a 50:1 ratio like recommended by the manufacture Redmax. I was using the Blendzall in my Redmax Trimmer Bcz260ts and absolutely Loved the trimmer (and I've used them all) I also love the smell lol. The motor began to get harder to start and seemed to be losing power it was only 4 months old and still under warranty YET when I took it in for evaluation, they said it was run without oil (straight gas ) and the Piston and cylinder wall were both scarred. They refused to warranty. I told them that I was sure it had oil/ Blendzall and they still refused to warranty. I would like to be able to use the Blendzall product but it appears that it has failed. Did I do something wrong? I saw a comment that it has NO protection if its been cold. I did have on porch over the winter. Please advise, I just don't want to throw 300 away again. Michael and thanks so much in advance.
This is old but.....I would highly recommend running a non castor oil mix at no less than 25:1. Even 20:1 would be good. Best to start with that from the very beginning of engines life. Any decent synthetic or semi synthetic at those ratios. A tcw3 oil should run nice and crisp at those ratios. Jetting will need to be a bit richer to compensate coming from 50:1. Less percentage of burnable fuel going in the engine with more oil, so richening it up some will take care of that. 2 strokes love plenty of oil. If it's done from the beginning and ran in with some good throttling to seat the rings, you'll have a much better seal with more power and a bump up in compression. If anything the combustion will be cleaner and more efficient because of having a much better seal. But I'm not a believer in little oil. If you want power and longevity, run more oil. If compression and jetting is proper, it will not foul plugs. Castor oil is just a very dirty oil. I believe a cleaner oil and running much more of it is a much better combo. The key is always having it tuned properly. Not too rich or lean. When people say running more oil makes it run lean it's just straight up lie. Because partial truths aren't truth. They need to finish their sentence........ Which is that you tune it slightly richer to compensate. That's what carburetors are for. To be adjusted. If it can't be adjusted I wouldn't even use it.
Explain pls why this same chainsaw ran on other oils at 32:1 like motul and schaeffers are clean as a whistle? Also, stihl themselves says on their website to use 25:1 if using non-stihl made oil. Now what?
Thanks for the video, I will trade protection for great smell and "black tar", Klotz is out. Down to Amsoil Interceptor or Motul 710 2T for my 2020 KTM 300 xc fuel injected 2 stroke.
@@tc1254 klotz tcw3 JASO full synthetic snowmobile or water craft oil is better. Klotz makes a lot of different oils they're not all dirty. It all depends on the flashpoint the super techniplate is like over 450° flashpoint the dominators under 300 along with the klotz snowmobile and watercraft if you're not winding the piss out of your motor all day long it's not a good idea to run that crap.
@@577buttfan I have a gallon of r-50 that I’m happy with I run super techniplate every once in a while when I go to the moto track because the smell and the little bit of castor helps
@@tc1254 yeah dude the smell of the super techno plate and the caster is to die for I just wish it wasn't so gummy or I would run it and everything lol.. I tried blezall injector 455 ultra for a while it's a little better but it's still gummy. Peace out bro
Recently switched to Klotz Super in my stock 066, 50:1, I can’t believe I didn’t switch sooner, noticeable difference over red armor, I’ll be trying klotz r-50 next only because of wisconsin winters, thanks for the video!
I run klotz techniplate mixed 65 :1 and have for 30 years. I put 12 years on my chainsaw pretty much the same on my weed eater my son raised 3 years straight on a big bore YZ85. Never one failure. No plug fouling or anything. I have also ran it in a couple other two-stroke dirt bikes but I usually don't keep them more than a year or three. Most other oils won't mix at 65:1 without failure. Klotz is King in my book. I run it in everything, it's in my Harley it's in my VW woods buggy it's in my street strip Monte Carlo. Great stuff. About the mix ratio, I started at 40:1 and would foul plugs. I run 90 + octane pure gas. I kept thinning the mixture until it quit fouling plugs. At 60:1 it would go a month then foul a plug. At 65:1 it never fouled one so I've always stuck with that mixture using 100% high octane fuel. The three plus years my son raced his YZ85, we tore it down and it look like new inside except the exhaust side of the rings were Warren a little thinner. Not bad for 3 years of racing practice riding and trail riding without never being rebuilt. My son can ride the wheels off a motorcycle so it never got any slack that's my experience with klotz for almost 30 years and the only two-stroke bikes I'd ever blown up was when using other oils and mixing to the required spec. Once I discovered clots in my twenties and figured what mixed ratio works for me, it's been smooth sailing since
I been running it in my mx bike and weedeater for years at 32:1, yet to foul a plug.. I just know it will happen now that I said it😂
I'm thinking you could go leaner on your jetting and make more power. Also more oil makes more power. 🤷♂️
Question what do you consider high octane? I always run 93 but have ran a mix of 112.
I ran Maxxima 927 in one of MMWS ported 044's with similar results after
10 tanks. But it left a nice film in it upon tear down, and not quite
so much build up on the piston head.
I've done several more tear downs with different oils. Check out my vids. Seems there are plenty of other oils better suited to a chainsaw. Cleaner burning with very nice film on tear down. Mobil 1 if you can find it, honda hp2, motul 800, 2R, Schaeffers, Red Armor.
I use 8002t off road since it is readily available and affordable on this side of the pond. Usually at 40:1 ish. I got build up with it at 33:1. I have to admit, tho, the bean juice smells fantastic!
Pure Castor or a blend is the best high rpm high heat lube, but burns dirtier. Klotz R50 is a pure synth race oil and cleaner.
you are not making enough power to burn the castor oil. i run that at 50:1. no tar.
Well I have ran this oil in an air cooled engine the super techniplate likes to be run very rich on oil like 5 to 6 oz a gallon and chainsaws run lean so it’s burning off the synthetic and the castor is getting stuck on the piston but there is only 20% castor so it’s not much
Should probably let it warm up, just saying, snowmobile guy stuff is the same way
Bro , maybe this question out of topic , since you test many type of 2t brands , which one you recommended for the best protection for 2 stroke engine(high lubricity) .
here are several - mobil 1 2t, yamalube 2r, honda hp2, schaeffers 7000 or 9000. all 32 to 40:1 for mix ratio. I run more oil, not so much for more oil between the piston and cylinder but for the bearings.
Good luck finding that Mobil 2T. I have half a quart left and use it in my 2 stroke lawnboys. Good stuff.
Motul 800 off road
@@Redbull661 i have had that conversation with serveral people thay the bottom end bearings would love oil but people are so hard headed these days. I'd rather have a small amount of spooge than not enough knowing bearings are bathing in oil
Try KLOTZ R-50 that is their top of the line premix only and has no caster bean oil in it flash point 550F . I have always had bad results with every brand of oil with mix caster bean oil. The cleanest best 2cycle lubes I feel are all 100% ester based example belray H1R , or maxima formula K2 as they don't need additives to stay mixed with the gas. Other oils need additives to keep the oil suspended in the gas. The additive does not act as a lubricant and in cheep oils can be up to 20%. Also for best film strength use a premix only oil when premixing not thin injector oil.
To much oil makes it run leaner because the gas is thinker with that much oil so was probably running to hot, run 50:1
Too rich for that chainsaw especially with that oil. What did the saw call for ratio wise?
every other oil I've run 32:1 in these 661s has looked pretty much fine. This stuff was horrible in the saw. Good elsewhere I'm sure...otherwise they wouldn't sell the stuff. But horrible in the saw.
That's because it's got castor in it that saw cant scream like a supermini or 125! It burns best with vp racing fuels as well!!! Of course its gonna look like shit with pump gas in a little chainsaw at 32:1
I run Amsoil Saber 43:1 non ethanol 91.
36-1 thats crazy on a modern saw. I been running 50-1 as recommended in a work saw and so does everyone else I know, maybe its a uk v us thing. the less you fuss the better they run
Have you had any experience with Motul 800 off-road? This was recommended by Hotsaws101.
yes. search my videos. I've done a number of them. and more which I just took pictures. Prive Msg me if you want, on opeforum.com redbull661
Redbull661 thank you very much for the reply. Motul looked ok, but I wasn't nearly as impressed as I was with your Schaefers video. Is Red Armor still the favorite you've tested? FYI, I shared your Schaffer's video to a Facebook Group called, "Chainsaw Repair."
Red Armor changed their formula and from what I've seen online, not for the better. Schaeffers is great but I'd only run it at 32:1. Kind of a thin oil. That's just a guess. I simply haven't tested it higher. You gotta remember that you don't need a lot of oil for the film between the piston and cylinder. But do want it for the bearings. Every saw I've seen roasted has been run on 50:1. As far as Jack aka hotsaws101 goes. My only issue was the prices he quoted me were substantially higher than any other porter I've come across.
as for what oil I like. I like honda hp2 at 32-40:1 32-36:1 on larger saws. 40:1 for the rest. Then schaeffers 7000 or 9000 at 32:1. Maybe 36-40:1 in smaller saws like 50cc and smaller. As for others. I need to do more testing. I don't base my opinions on what I read. I look at REAL results. Tear downs. Thermocouple readings. Speed comparisons.
Redbull661 thanks, once again, for your insight. I mill with my 661. It’s still under warranty so I’ve been running the Stihl Platinum at 50:1 with 91 octane e-free rec gas. I’ve pulled the plug and muffler off a few times to look at the cylinder and it seems fine, but like you said, I’m concerned about the crank bearings. Once the warranty runs out, I’m going to run either the Schaefers 7000, Amsoil Saber or Motul 800. After watching your videos, I’m leaning towards the Schaefers. I’m no Hotsaws101 fanboy, but I do appreciate his passion and information. I’ve heard his port work is extremely expensive.
I’ve been running that VP 40/1 in my stock 661. It has a max flow and muffler mod. I like the way it smells and it seems pretty good. Have you tried it?
I have some and it's on my to do list. But not yet.
What happened to the red armour vid?
ran the saw more on it at 32:1. didn't care for the results. I am thinking they either changed the formula or you just can't run it at 32:1. see here opeforum.com/threads/hate-to-say-it.12226/
Running 36:1 is your first mistake. You can run 50:1 with klotz! Your just losing rpm by flooding your gas combustion with too much oil and losing rpm! Klotz beats amsoil any day as well.
Actually I’ve done test in an air cooled motorized bike engine that’s ported and piped, klotz super techniplate likes to be run 20:1 or 24:1 to leave a good film behind at 32:1 their was barely any film left behind after a hard run but now everything stays nice and happy
Holy piss, that doesn't look good. What are you currently recommending? I have been running the red armour and Motul, but it looks like I'll be skipping the RA from now on.
yeah it looked pretty good the first time I took it down. So either they changed the formula? Or just can't run it at 32:1. I run 32:1 not so much for the film between the piston and jug. But for the bearings.
I like - th-cam.com/video/tL66tLLKuFg/w-d-xo.html
or
th-cam.com/video/QsecGq9Q52o/w-d-xo.html
@@Redbull661 the techniplate likes to be run super rich on oil to leave a good film behind like 5 to 6 oz a gallon if carbon isn’t an issue than this is the perfect oil but
I need some help guys. I was using the Blendzall 455 Ultra product , at a 50:1 ratio like recommended by the manufacture Redmax. I was using the Blendzall in my Redmax Trimmer Bcz260ts and absolutely Loved the trimmer (and I've used them all) I also love the smell lol. The motor began to get harder to start and seemed to be losing power it was only 4 months old and still under warranty YET when I took it in for evaluation, they said it was run without oil (straight gas ) and the Piston and cylinder wall were both scarred. They refused to warranty. I told them that I was sure it had oil/ Blendzall and they still refused to warranty. I would like to be able to use the Blendzall product but it appears that it has failed. Did I do something wrong? I saw a comment that it has NO protection if its been cold. I did have on porch over the winter. Please advise, I just don't want to throw 300 away again. Michael and thanks so much in advance.
This is old but.....I would highly recommend running a non castor oil mix at no less than 25:1. Even 20:1 would be good. Best to start with that from the very beginning of engines life. Any decent synthetic or semi synthetic at those ratios. A tcw3 oil should run nice and crisp at those ratios. Jetting will need to be a bit richer to compensate coming from 50:1. Less percentage of burnable fuel going in the engine with more oil, so richening it up some will take care of that. 2 strokes love plenty of oil. If it's done from the beginning and ran in with some good throttling to seat the rings, you'll have a much better seal with more power and a bump up in compression. If anything the combustion will be cleaner and more efficient because of having a much better seal. But I'm not a believer in little oil. If you want power and longevity, run more oil. If compression and jetting is proper, it will not foul plugs. Castor oil is just a very dirty oil. I believe a cleaner oil and running much more of it is a much better combo. The key is always having it tuned properly. Not too rich or lean.
When people say running more oil makes it run lean it's just straight up lie. Because partial truths aren't truth. They need to finish their sentence........ Which is that you tune it slightly richer to compensate. That's what carburetors are for. To be adjusted. If it can't be adjusted I wouldn't even use it.
that"s becouse your running to much oil! lol and more than likely not tuned right i run the same stuff 50:1 and it runs very clean never a problem
auto tune saw. and it ran fine with every other oil including original tecnniplate. Just doesn't run well with this oil.
All Stihl chainsaws suppose to run 50:1 ratio
Explain pls why this same chainsaw ran on other oils at 32:1 like motul and schaeffers are clean as a whistle? Also, stihl themselves says on their website to use 25:1 if using non-stihl made oil. Now what?
Klotz is great oil if you want you motor to rust out, facts
been using it the last 16 years never seen that happen
I'm sorry to hear that but his findings with that gross ass tar are spot on you don't get that from amsoil. But I'm glad you're happy with it 😏
There’s a good reason it called klotz and we saw it on that piston. I’ve never been a fan of that oil.
Looks to be running lean
Wtf the fk kinda review was that? Lol
Hae sthil ultra
Would you recommend the klotz orginal techniplate?
Run r-50
@@tc1254 what's the difference?
@@sean.g4516 r50 is made for race engines and high rpm only
@@aaroncrain2343 so wat do you recommend for jst daily riding trailing
@@sean.g4516 I spoke with costumer support and they said their “Klotz KL-302” is good for all around riding.
The full name is Klotz KL-302 TC-W3
Thanks for the video, I will trade protection for great smell and "black tar", Klotz is out. Down to Amsoil Interceptor or Motul 710 2T for my 2020 KTM 300 xc fuel injected 2 stroke.
Run amsoil dominator it burns clean and is the best oil I’ve found
@@tc1254 klotz tcw3 JASO full synthetic snowmobile or water craft oil is better. Klotz makes a lot of different oils they're not all dirty. It all depends on the flashpoint the super techniplate is like over 450° flashpoint the dominators under 300 along with the klotz snowmobile and watercraft if you're not winding the piss out of your motor all day long it's not a good idea to run that crap.
@@577buttfan I have a gallon of r-50 that I’m happy with I run super techniplate every once in a while when I go to the moto track because the smell and the little bit of castor helps
@@tc1254 yeah dude the smell of the super techno plate and the caster is to die for I just wish it wasn't so gummy or I would run it and everything lol.. I tried blezall injector 455 ultra for a while it's a little better but it's still gummy.
Peace out bro
@@577buttfan blendzall 455 is cleaner than super techniplate?
You voice is like silk
Is that piston scored after using the klotz
36 to one?? Thats a little rich.. 50 to one is plenty. More oil is not better its worse!
50:1 is richer than 36:1
More oil in the fuel is a leaner mix
@@Distracted_driving_kills wrong!!
Klotz does not recommend to mix that thin in air-cooled 👍32-1 is the thinnest they recommend per klotz.
@@Kevin-xq2jg no he is right. Air/fuel mixture is richer with less oil because there is more gas.
@@hondaman3317 yep you're right. I would also like to know how these motors are getting broken in and if they all are broken in the same.
I hate all Klotz Oil. It does what it's is named it Klotz..