If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid. First, you can probably play John Krasinski, or he you..your can cast him for your biopic. An easier way to do “spot” leveling of concrete floors is: 1) slip a shim under the gappiest section of your level until it just touches the bottom of your level (where the void is deepest). This should correspond to the center of your level/void. 2) Mark the shim where it touches the level, and outline all sides of the shim (in case you lose your place), like, you know, where the dead body was found. If doing multiple “spot” levelings, number your shim and location on floor (the number should be in the same direction; shim and floor, to eliminate any room for error. 3) Cut the shim and attach it to the location with caulk, smooshed so it the same height. 4) Mix a little self leveling cement and fill the small space until it just immerses the caulked shim. 5) Feather/screed the area. *The shim allows you to fill the void to level. **I don’t bother removing the small piece of wood, just a square the size of a shim.
You probably dont care but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the latest movies on Instaflixxer. Been watching with my gf these days xD
Perfect, exactly what I needed. I don't want to pour leveling compound on the entire floor raising it's height, just need to fix a few valleys here and there.
We used this to level a bumpy basement slab as an alternative to self leveling compound by grinding highs and patching lows and it worked great, thanks for sharing
@@mikalaimalinouski9998 Self-leveling pour doesn't work as you might expect. I would only use it to raise a floor or if a large area was truly off level (not unflat). Even with self-leveling you are still going to have high and low spots. Even if all goes well and the compound doesn't dry before you can spread it evenly. I just got done doing a self-leveling poor and took all the preparations possible, but the stuff is hard to work with and dries quicker than you think. I wouldn't even attempt another self leveling pour unless I had a large barrel (like 40 gallons) to mix everything at once, had all the tools (gauge rake, spiked roller, spiked shoes) and of course dammed off the edges and primed the floor. This spot-fix method is so much easier if you are just trying to correct high/low areas and your entire subfloor isn't a disaster.
Epoxy first coat to ensure adherence. Self leveling concrete. Add about 1/2 Q more water than they recommend. Mix it up part by part. Get it consistency of a milkshake. Pour. Level with wide spreader. It will level itself out further. The consistency is a bit too thick if you go with ratio suggested on bag. Wait 24H to cure.
thank you so much for this video!! every other video ive seen really doesnt explain how to determine where the un level spots are as well as you explained. was ABOUT to hire someone to do this for me but you saved me a ton of money!! thank you!!
I wanted to say thanks for this video. I just got through feathering out a 1/2” slab difference over 78”. Now I understand why you didn’t just screed that straight edge across the patch. It’s a huge mess and that stuff is super sticky. Much better to use you approach.
Nice work, my living room had a low slope accross is, pain in the rear, than another slope , nonware near as smooth as yours, but it is pretty close to level now at
I’m feathering out a 1/4 in or less transition between kitchen tile and composite wood floor in prep for commercial LVP. The wood is glued to concrete slab. Wondering if wood will swell and eventually crack the new concrete?
We need to level out an area which is higher concrete that meets wood flooring. We will be putting vinyl plank flooring over. Would love your advice please.
Yeah it's been a year, but for those with the same question of why not leveling compound? Leveling compound requires prepping to seal off anywhere where it can leak through. Also leveling compound is messier to work with and not worth it for a small area. Next thing is that your floors don't neccesarily have to be level. It can slope, but it has to be flat though and within the tolerances stated by the manufacturer. Level and flat is not the same thing. So if you have to flatten your floors and it has a slight slope, then leveling compound will not work as it will seek to level itself and not match the slope. And this is where you need a product that does not flow but a product that you can form to how you want it to. Also it is easier to put on as much or take of as much as needed with patching compounds vs a liquid like compound. Also leveling compounds and patching compounds you have like a 10 minute window to work with it as it will start to harden. Also be aware that most compounds are not compatible with OSB subflooring.
@@bubbalo3388man, terrific addition to the conversation! Totally answered many burning questions that have had me in analysis paralysis for days and keeping me from attacking the actual job! Thank you!
@@MurphyCapitalVentures yeah for me my floor was so wonky that I couldn't use leveling compound. My subfloor was also OSB of which wasn't compatible with just about every product out there also. Plywood you are ok. I had to use Henry 549 feathering compound. It's expensive and I can get it at H.D.. Not fun to work with in large batches as it had like a 10 minute working window like leveling compound.
Nice work. I'm prepping my concrete slab for LVP. I've grinded the lips on the joints down and it's easy enough to fill in small valleys here and there. My problem is that I have a joint that runs in the middle of my basement. One side of that joint is essentially fine. The other side of that main joint slopes toward the drain in the mechanical room (slope is about an inch over 10 feet). To get that half of the main room more level with that main joint I'd have to pour what seems like a ton of SLC (area of concern is about 30 ft x 8 ft....about an inch at it's lowest). As mentioned, I grinded that joint for a few days and I'm fed up with grinding. Is there a better way to do this or is all that SLC necessary?
Thanks for the great video, is it possible to do the same thing with a self leveler. I have some high spots in my basement concrete slab and want to make the slope as easy as possible before installing vinyl planks. All the videos using self leveler the whole floor is covered which is overwhelming for me
How long after can you put on wood floating floors after leveling is done? Does it need to dry out for some days for moisture to come out? I know this is for vinyl but we need to do this for our engineered wood floors as concrete is uneven
Is there a leveling product that can be applied to painted concrete? Like a primer first? Hydronic concrete floor was painted then carpeted, single layer no underlayment pad. Grinding the paint off would be a mess.
Could you just pour it on there heavy and then screed it off with that board? I have a 250sf area to flatten and I'm wondering how I can get it consistent across such a large space without depending on my trowel skills. You make it look so easy, so clearly your experience shines through. Thanks for the video!
Please tell me what tool ur using to scrape the ridges at the end? My builder did this to my basement and it looks like shit. Because its a finished area and they dont care, they wont fix it 🤷🏾♀️ Also if its been longer than 1 hour, am i stil able to smooth it out? ( Been 2 days)
What are your thoughts to level a 3/8inch difference in flooring? Our floor is half concrete and half plywood. We bought Vinyl flooring to install. Thanks
so my mom wants to finish her basement, and for the most part the floor is very level except for a section in the corner that rises up. would we have to bring the floor level to this or are we able to grind it down?
I have a question I am about to use high end vinyl floor planking on a concrete slab the room is like couple feet below grade. Now existing are 8x8 or 10x10 anyway some are missing what would be best way to even floor.
Hey Lori...funny seeing you here. I'm about to install vinyl floor blanking on a concrete floor in my basement. I have several low spots of various sizes (max 1/4 inch deep) - it might be better to level the entire floor. Do you anyone local who does this type of work?
@@LubaLuba1 I don't know the answer; my application is different - a painted concrete floor. I need to strip the paint before leveling...it's going to be tough.
Well Built Home concrete patching pairs nicely with The Tragically Hip, was listening to Live Between Us. 20 years later and it’s still silly how well that album plays cover to cover:)
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. Any thoughts on putting dricore subfloor down? I am working on a basement bathroom which has tile on slab I think. Will be removing tile and using self leveling compound to level the funky floor. No water concerns that I can see. Was thinking about added the 3R dricore to help with the insulation and putting vinyl plank on top of that.
Not sure I’m following, but if you have an expansion joint it probably wouldn’t hurt to patch it. Lol you may want to check with a concrete professional on that one though!
what about mold &/or moisture from vapor coming from the concrete issues? asking in reference to a new build, what is the best practice to prep concrete slab foundation for installing LVP?
U need an underlayment with moisture barrier for concrete slab Some underlayments are mold and mildew resistent. Please do not buy ur underlayment from home depot theyre scamming you. They charge .60 cents and above for a SF. Wayfair has it for 14 cents online. Or any underlayment floor wholesaler has em for 20 cents and under a SF. Home depot is charging 3 or 4 times more for a thin plastic its garbage If u have a basement u dont need a vapor barrier since ur house is designed for that Search up Home Renovations DIY vinyl on youtube Thank me later
There was carpet down in my basement, so I just cut it up into smaller squares, rolled them up and the put tape around them. Them my 6 year old boy carried them upstairs and threw them in my truck.
My parents had a two foot section of laminate ripped up by the shower to check a leak. Can I just level that section out smooth with the laminate before installing new vinyl flooring?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Alright. I thought you could, I keep seeing people lay vinyl flooring over the existing floor that’s pretty thick. So I figured thin laminate would be no issue. Thanks man!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Hey man, I meant linoleum flooring. Could I level the section that was ripped up, then add new vinyl flooring on top? I wouldn’t layer a new floating floor over an old one either.
Self leveling is better for larger jobs that require lots of attention, the patch is a nice way to flatten out smaller areas that may or may not be level.
Most LVP is like 1/16” in 10 ft to be in warranty tho, if you use Henry’s self leveler it sets up quick and use it a good bit to get height differences in doorways feathered out.
@@zaneriggleman2250 My vinyl plank flooring says up to 3/16" in 10 feet is OK. Unfortunately my floor is 3/4" out of level in 10'. Trying to find an economical solution
nigel thompson this would work well for a floor with 3-4 trouble areas. If the floor is terrible you may want to consider a float coat type product and or grinding some of the humps out. In my basement I used a lock together vinyl plank and it does fairly well over minor bumps and dips. Cheers, check out the channel if you’re interested in that product it’s in my durability test video.
The Funny Carpenter what would you consider a “minor” bump/dip? We have two “ridges” left from were a previous owner moved the stair case, and not really sure how concerned we should be.
jferraro there are tolerances listed with each flooring, but I would say if you put a 4’ straight edge on there and there is gaps of more than 1/16” you will probably feel them. Now on my floor in the basement I have a few spots that were kind of in that 1/8” to 3/16” range and I didn’t do anything to them and wish that I did. It’s not horrible but definitely not 100%. The floor is holding up great but next time I’ll take a bit more time on the prep.
Brian Richard this isn’t meant to be professional advice, but did chat with a buddy that does floors- he’d likely just fill it in with some spray foam and patch over it.
I'm seriously thinking about covering my concrete basement floor. A local service works with tile, stone, and does LVP/LVT. My floor is definitely uneven - lots of high / low spots for sure. What about linoleum as another option? The video is great, but, quite honestly, after watching it, I think I'll opt for the beer and let someone else do the work!!
Using self-leveler - or rather, hiring a pro who uses self-leveler all day, every day - is the best way to go. There are tricks to getting self-leveling mix to work. First, it costs $30/bag right now (Aug. 2021) so do not hire a handyman. The bag may say 'self-leveling' but an expert will not waste lots of $30 bags like a handyman will. A very uneven floor will be best done by: 1) grinding down the high areas if it is practical and feasible 2) apply the self-leveling mix with a 2-man or 3-man team (one guy mixing, one guy applying at a minimum) There are special tools and floor prep to apply self-leveling. If you or a handyman get it wrong, it's painful - $30 a bag just for materials. There is a video on yt showing 50 bags of self-leveling mix applied to a 500sqft area. The guy was a pro and did not waste a single bag. Good thing too because 50 bags at $30/per bag = $1500 TAKEAWAY: just because the bag says 'self-leveling' does not mean 'anyone can do it'. Anyone can buy paint and canvas. Few can paint well. .
If the floor is in rough shape, you may need to grind some section and or pour some self levelling concrete patch over most of the area. The process in the video works well if you have a few trouble spots.
Furniture on the uneven floor will not sit level. Worse, I used to work at a house that had uneven floor under vinyl. It was disconcerting and annoying every time you stepped on that spot. Every time you step there, your brain wonders "What's wrong with the foundation of this house?" Certainly not what you what potential buyers or tenants asking.
So you didn’t remove the floor trim so the leveling doesn’t go above the bottom of the trim so when you place the flooring material it’s level to the trim as well…and I was going to remove the trim …sheesh. 😅
that’s not bad at all. i have the Swiss Alps in my kitchen, and i’m NOT fixing it. enough with trying to make old houses new. SCREW IT. 32 years of working on old houses yah guddah learn to say “fuck it” unless you want the job. lol i shooed for flexible plank flooring so i didn’t have to fix it
If you'd like to help me make better videos and you enjoy absurdly comfortable T-shirts:) check this out-> www.etsy.com/ca/shop/TheFunnyCarpenter?ref=search_shop_redirect
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the vid.
First, you can probably play John Krasinski, or he you..your can cast him for your biopic.
An easier way to do “spot” leveling of concrete floors is:
1) slip a shim under the gappiest section of your level until it just touches the bottom of your level (where the void is deepest). This should correspond to the center of your level/void.
2) Mark the shim where it touches the level, and outline all sides of the shim (in case you lose your place), like, you know, where the dead body was found. If doing multiple “spot” levelings, number your shim and location on floor (the number should be in the same direction; shim and floor, to eliminate any room for error.
3) Cut the shim and attach it to the location with caulk, smooshed so it the same height.
4) Mix a little self leveling cement and fill the small space until it just immerses the caulked shim. 5) Feather/screed the area.
*The shim allows you to fill the void to level.
**I don’t bother removing the small piece of wood, just a square the size of a shim.
You probably dont care but if you're stoned like me during the covid times then you can stream all of the latest movies on Instaflixxer. Been watching with my gf these days xD
@Mateo Myles Yea, been using Instaflixxer for since november myself :)
Perfect, exactly what I needed. I don't want to pour leveling compound on the entire floor raising it's height, just need to fix a few valleys here and there.
Omg ! So helpful ! I was stressing out about self levelling part . Thank you !
We used this to level a bumpy basement slab as an alternative to self leveling compound by grinding highs and patching lows and it worked great, thanks for sharing
Great to hear! Best Wishes on you floor project!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Why this approach is better than self-leveling pour?
@@mikalaimalinouski9998 $34 a bag for self leveling. Don't want to spend $1000+ to level my basement slab
@@mikalaimalinouski9998 Self-leveling pour doesn't work as you might expect. I would only use it to raise a floor or if a large area was truly off level (not unflat). Even with self-leveling you are still going to have high and low spots. Even if all goes well and the compound doesn't dry before you can spread it evenly. I just got done doing a self-leveling poor and took all the preparations possible, but the stuff is hard to work with and dries quicker than you think. I wouldn't even attempt another self leveling pour unless I had a large barrel (like 40 gallons) to mix everything at once, had all the tools (gauge rake, spiked roller, spiked shoes) and of course dammed off the edges and primed the floor. This spot-fix method is so much easier if you are just trying to correct high/low areas and your entire subfloor isn't a disaster.
Epoxy first coat to ensure adherence. Self leveling concrete. Add about 1/2 Q more water than they recommend. Mix it up part by part. Get it consistency of a milkshake. Pour. Level with wide spreader. It will level itself out further. The consistency is a bit too thick if you go with ratio suggested on bag. Wait 24H to cure.
What kind of epoxy?
I used the same technique and it worked well. That compund can be sanded after it dries with 50 grit sand paper if needed.
thank you so much for this video!! every other video ive seen really doesnt explain how to determine where the un level spots are as well as you explained. was ABOUT to hire someone to do this for me but you saved me a ton of money!! thank you!!
I wanted to say thanks for this video. I just got through feathering out a 1/2” slab difference over 78”. Now I understand why you didn’t just screed that straight edge across the patch. It’s a huge mess and that stuff is super sticky. Much better to use you approach.
Informative comment that helps me plan my approach to a situation similar to yours. Thanks!
Nice work, my living room had a low slope accross is, pain in the rear, than another slope , nonware near as smooth as yours, but it is pretty close to level now at
Dude ive been looking for this type of video thank you so much
I’m feathering out a 1/4 in or less transition between kitchen tile and composite wood floor in prep for commercial LVP. The wood is glued to concrete slab. Wondering if wood will swell and eventually crack the new concrete?
We need to level out an area which is higher concrete that meets wood flooring. We will be putting vinyl plank flooring over. Would love your advice please.
You made it look easy. Nice tip, well presented. Hope R. loves the basement Reno. Looks great.
Thanks Garth, it’s coming along great!
Wonder why you used skim coat instead of self leveling cement
Yeah it's been a year, but for those with the same question of why not leveling compound?
Leveling compound requires prepping to seal off anywhere where it can leak through. Also leveling compound is messier to work with and not worth it for a small area.
Next thing is that your floors don't neccesarily have to be level. It can slope, but it has to be flat though and within the tolerances stated by the manufacturer. Level and flat is not the same thing. So if you have to flatten your floors and it has a slight slope, then leveling compound will not work as it will seek to level itself and not match the slope. And this is where you need a product that does not flow but a product that you can form to how you want it to. Also it is easier to put on as much or take of as much as needed with patching compounds vs a liquid like compound.
Also leveling compounds and patching compounds you have like a 10 minute window to work with it as it will start to harden. Also be aware that most compounds are not compatible with OSB subflooring.
@@bubbalo3388man, terrific addition to the conversation! Totally answered many burning questions that have had me in analysis paralysis for days and keeping me from attacking the actual job! Thank you!
@@MurphyCapitalVentures yeah for me my floor was so wonky that I couldn't use leveling compound. My subfloor was also OSB of which wasn't compatible with just about every product out there also. Plywood you are ok.
I had to use Henry 549 feathering compound. It's expensive and I can get it at H.D.. Not fun to work with in large batches as it had like a 10 minute working window like leveling compound.
Thanks for the video feel better about my project now.
Glad to hear it!
How will this hold up with no bonding agent 1st
Nice work. I'm prepping my concrete slab for LVP. I've grinded the lips on the joints down and it's easy enough to fill in small valleys here and there. My problem is that I have a joint that runs in the middle of my basement. One side of that joint is essentially fine. The other side of that main joint slopes toward the drain in the mechanical room (slope is about an inch over 10 feet). To get that half of the main room more level with that main joint I'd have to pour what seems like a ton of SLC (area of concern is about 30 ft x 8 ft....about an inch at it's lowest). As mentioned, I grinded that joint for a few days and I'm fed up with grinding. Is there a better way to do this or is all that SLC necessary?
Thanks for the great video, is it possible to do the same thing with a self leveler. I have some high spots in my basement concrete slab and want to make the slope as easy as possible before installing vinyl planks. All the videos using self leveler the whole floor is covered which is overwhelming for me
Self lever would work well to fill in a dip but is not great to feather out a patch like I showed in this video.
Is underpadding needed?
How long after can you put on wood floating floors after leveling is done? Does it need to dry out for some days for moisture to come out? I know this is for vinyl but we need to do this for our engineered wood floors as concrete is uneven
Just what I needed to see
Can I use this to fill small holes where the carpet nails used to be?
Is there a leveling product that can be applied to painted concrete? Like a primer first? Hydronic concrete floor was painted then carpeted, single layer no underlayment pad. Grinding the paint off would be a mess.
Does it create a small valley as you move away from the door joint?
What kind of concrete would you recommend for this?
Could you just pour it on there heavy and then screed it off with that board? I have a 250sf area to flatten and I'm wondering how I can get it consistent across such a large space without depending on my trowel skills. You make it look so easy, so clearly your experience shines through. Thanks for the video!
Great video. So it's ok to lay vinyl plank straight on top of concrete floor?
Simon Blunden i think some vp floors may require an underlay but most do go overtop concrete- you’d want to check the package.
You need a vapor barrier in most cases.
Please tell me what tool ur using to scrape the ridges at the end? My builder did this to my basement and it looks like shit. Because its a finished area and they dont care, they wont fix it 🤷🏾♀️
Also if its been longer than 1 hour, am i stil able to smooth it out? ( Been 2 days)
The longer it goes the harder it gets to scrape off- that’s a floor scrapper from the Home Depot.
What are your thoughts to level a 3/8inch difference in flooring? Our floor is half concrete and half plywood. We bought Vinyl flooring to install. Thanks
Any ideas for how to use the patch and skim product on a painted floor. Would primer help - or is it not worth doing if I can't strip the paint?
so my mom wants to finish her basement, and for the most part the floor is very level except for a section in the corner that rises up. would we have to bring the floor level to this or are we able to grind it down?
I have a question I am about to use high end vinyl floor planking on a concrete slab the room is like couple feet below grade. Now existing are 8x8 or 10x10 anyway some are missing what would be best way to even floor.
Hey Lori...funny seeing you here. I'm about to install vinyl floor blanking on a concrete floor in my basement. I have several low spots of various sizes (max 1/4 inch deep) - it might be better to level the entire floor. Do you anyone local who does this type of work?
@@BoxFalcon I guess i am asking which one is structurally stringer than the others because I dont want to hear hollow sound
@@LubaLuba1 I don't know the answer; my application is different - a painted concrete floor. I need to strip the paint before leveling...it's going to be tough.
Nice looking floor:)
How much more forgiving is Laminate flooring?
What if your cement floor is painted
Thought the same. Anyone?
Hi! What is the name/brand of the cement mix that you used? Thank you!
Custom
What are you listening to while you are working?
Well Built Home concrete patching pairs nicely with The Tragically Hip, was listening to Live Between Us. 20 years later and it’s still silly how well that album plays cover to cover:)
I was wondering the same thing, thinking he shoulda added it to the video.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful. Any thoughts on putting dricore subfloor down? I am working on a basement bathroom which has tile on slab I think. Will be removing tile and using self leveling compound to level the funky floor. No water concerns that I can see. Was thinking about added the 3R dricore to help with the insulation and putting vinyl plank on top of that.
What are your thoughts on the little chunks all around the edge from pulling out the carpet tack strip? Do those need to be filled in?
should be fine.
Great video. Would you use this to cover the expansion joint as well?
Not sure I’m following, but if you have an expansion joint it probably wouldn’t hurt to patch it. Lol you may want to check with a concrete professional on that one though!
What did you end up doing about the expansion joint? I am prepping for LVP and in an area one side is higher than the other.
what about mold &/or moisture from vapor coming from the concrete issues? asking in reference to a new build, what is the best practice to prep concrete slab foundation for installing LVP?
U need an underlayment with moisture barrier for concrete slab
Some underlayments are mold and mildew resistent.
Please do not buy ur underlayment from home depot theyre scamming you. They charge .60 cents and above for a SF. Wayfair has it for 14 cents online. Or any underlayment floor wholesaler has em for 20 cents and under a SF.
Home depot is charging 3 or 4 times more for a thin plastic its garbage
If u have a basement u dont need a vapor barrier since ur house is designed for that
Search up Home Renovations DIY vinyl on youtube
Thank me later
Hi, did you remove all the flooring in the room in order to fix the uneven portion of the floor?
There was carpet down in my basement, so I just cut it up into smaller squares, rolled them up and the put tape around them. Them my 6 year old boy carried them upstairs and threw them in my truck.
How low was the low spot under the straight edge?
There was about a 5/16" dip.
I have a couple that are 1/16 and don’t know if they’re worth fixing.
@@davidwilley6199 same problem, what did you do, how did it turn out?
I got some patch and a very wide trowel and slowly spread it.I did a little at a time.
Do u need a primer before using the skim coat?
I did wet the concrete down with water, but did not use a primer.
Very helpful video. Look forward to watching more of your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
Are you suppose to put an insulated underlayment before putting the plank?
some planks require an underlayment, and some forbid an underlayment. just have to check the directions
Parts of my floor have a hollow sound when walking on it. Can this be fixed? And should it be fixed?
What did you end up doing ?
My parents had a two foot section of laminate ripped up by the shower to check a leak. Can I just level that section out smooth with the laminate before installing new vinyl flooring?
As far as I know it’s not advisable to instal one floating floor over another floating floor.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Alright. I thought you could, I keep seeing people lay vinyl flooring over the existing floor that’s pretty thick. So I figured thin laminate would be no issue. Thanks man!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Hey man, I meant linoleum flooring. Could I level the section that was ripped up, then add new vinyl flooring on top? I wouldn’t layer a new floating floor over an old one either.
Kolby Girard ya that would be fine. I installed the Vp in my laundry room over old linoleum.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you! Have a good day.
How would this work in wood?
Thank you for posting this
Quick question: why didn't you opt for self-leveling compound?
Self leveling is better for larger jobs that require lots of attention, the patch is a nice way to flatten out smaller areas that may or may not be level.
Most LVP is like 1/16” in 10 ft to be in warranty tho, if you use Henry’s self leveler it sets up quick and use it a good bit to get height differences in doorways feathered out.
@@zaneriggleman2250 My vinyl plank flooring says up to 3/16" in 10 feet is OK. Unfortunately my floor is 3/4" out of level in 10'. Trying to find an economical solution
Very nice, you use Canadian matérial ? ( French language on thé bag )
Will this work for a whole basement floor ?
nigel thompson this would work well for a floor with 3-4 trouble areas. If the floor is terrible you may want to consider a float coat type product and or grinding some of the humps out. In my basement I used a lock together vinyl plank and it does fairly well over minor bumps and dips. Cheers, check out the channel if you’re interested in that product it’s in my durability test video.
The Funny Carpenter what would you consider a “minor” bump/dip? We have two “ridges” left from were a previous owner moved the stair case, and not really sure how concerned we should be.
jferraro there are tolerances listed with each flooring, but I would say if you put a 4’ straight edge on there and there is gaps of more than 1/16” you will probably feel them. Now on my floor in the basement I have a few spots that were kind of in that 1/8” to 3/16” range and I didn’t do anything to them and wish that I did. It’s not horrible but definitely not 100%. The floor is holding up great but next time I’ll take a bit more time on the prep.
The Funny Carpenter thanks man, appreciate the quick reply!
Extreme durability testing- Vinyl Plank vs Laminate vs Engineered Hardwood -incase you’re curious: th-cam.com/video/iBQIxFhhkJs/w-d-xo.html
I like that scraper! Does that tool have a name and nice job
Thank you! That’s just a floor scrapper I picked up from the Home Depot about 10 years ago. It comes in handy a few times a year!
Its around the back of floor section and it comes in different sizes. We use them for demo
well, i actually used pancake batter and it was not very good.
Did u try heating it up?
😂
Mmmmm. Pancakes.
I'm a fan of the blue/green belt!
What about expansion joints on a basement floor? Do I need to fill? Some of mine are 3/4 inch wide and 1/2 deep.
That’s a good question, I’ll ask the flooring guy I see on site. Until then google may be your best bet for an answer here.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thx been google looking. I have already started the floor but have not reached my first joint yet
Brian Richard this isn’t meant to be professional advice, but did chat with a buddy that does floors- he’d likely just fill it in with some spray foam and patch over it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thanks so much, didn't think of that
do you happen to live in south florida? I would hire you
Sorry Heidi, I’m Canadian.
Looking smooooth:)
Hi! I love this color vinyl can you share the brand/color plz?
Int is grey fig from the Home Decorators Collection at Home Depot
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you!
I'm seriously thinking about covering my concrete basement floor. A local service works with tile, stone, and does LVP/LVT. My floor is definitely uneven - lots of high / low spots for sure. What about linoleum as another option? The video is great, but, quite honestly, after watching it, I think I'll opt for the beer and let someone else do the work!!
Using self-leveler - or rather, hiring a pro who uses self-leveler all day, every day - is the best way to go. There are tricks to getting self-leveling mix to work. First, it costs $30/bag right now (Aug. 2021) so do not hire a handyman. The bag may say 'self-leveling' but an expert will not waste lots of $30 bags like a handyman will.
A very uneven floor will be best done by:
1) grinding down the high areas if it is practical and feasible
2) apply the self-leveling mix with a 2-man or 3-man team (one guy mixing, one guy applying at a minimum)
There are special tools and floor prep to apply self-leveling.
If you or a handyman get it wrong, it's painful - $30 a bag just for materials. There is a video on yt showing 50 bags of self-leveling mix applied to a 500sqft area. The guy was a pro and did not waste a single bag.
Good thing too because 50 bags at $30/per bag = $1500
TAKEAWAY: just because the bag says 'self-leveling' does not mean 'anyone can do it'.
Anyone can buy paint and canvas. Few can paint well.
.
Will this technique work for a basement floor that has cracks and is still heaving/settling or am I just better off doing carpet with thick pad?
If the floor is in rough shape, you may need to grind some section and or pour some self levelling concrete patch over most of the area. The process in the video works well if you have a few trouble spots.
Have you ever installed LVP on ceramic tile?
I’m imagining if the tile was very flat, and the grout lines were flush or filled in. You could give it a go.
Can't I just put vinyl flooring on uneven concrete? What is the worst that can happen?
It's pretty bouncy. I have a few spots in my basement that are a bit on the bouncy side.
Furniture on the uneven floor will not sit level. Worse, I used to work at a house that had uneven floor under vinyl. It was disconcerting and annoying every time you stepped on that spot. Every time you step there, your brain wonders "What's wrong with the foundation of this house?" Certainly not what you what potential buyers or tenants asking.
Over time, if the bounce is more than 1/16", and depending on the foot traffic, the plank will crack across the width. This is my experience. 🤨
If floor is not level the click lock joints will open up.
Awesome Thanks
💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Bam! 1k likes, deserved.
I'd just pour it runnier and let gravity do the work. Feather the edges by sanding, easy
My knees are hurting just watching this…..
So you didn’t remove the floor trim so the leveling doesn’t go above the bottom of the trim so when you place the flooring material it’s level to the trim as well…and I was going to remove the trim …sheesh. 😅
IDk that’s some hard work. I’d prefer tiling maybe.
Excellent video....not a lot of superfluous talking.
Concrete joints?...
Yes
So spicy!
that’s not bad at all.
i have the Swiss Alps in my kitchen,
and i’m NOT fixing it.
enough with trying to make old houses new.
SCREW IT. 32 years of working on old houses yah guddah learn to say “fuck it”
unless you want the job. lol
i shooed for flexible plank flooring so i didn’t have to fix it
Pro tip read the instructions
Thanks
0:59 get yourself a big sponge, jus' sayin'
Unfortunately I have zero patience for such meticulous time consuming details.
That left side is a bugger!
I can't see your pencil marks. lol
Aw man, don't mix powders inside, that's just wrong. I hope you were wearing a mask.
Oh my God I can't watch these freaking handymen have you ever heard of a freaking bonding agent
Cheers
clickbait! Title should be: fixing uneven concrete.
Thumbs down, 2 folkin adverts
paying bills one ad at a time:)
Are you single?
Good video, but honestly I didn’t need all those scraping sounds.