Your "start button solution is brilliant. It solves the problem "I don't want my brakes to disable the throttle but I need the brake wiring to enable startup". Your momentary switch does the job. My solution is somewhat different. I want to be able to toggle between "brakes disable and brakes do not disable". So I use a 2-position toggle switch. As a matter of fact, and not to confuse matters, I only want the left lever to allow throttle. This lets me get started on severe ups without abrupt throttle. The torque of this bike, even in rabbit mode, can easily overwhelm the rear tire on loose climbs. This is less of a problem taking them at speed but applying throttle at very slow climb speed can be modulated using some rear brake. I chose to leave the front brake alone because my riding has not discovered an essential need to deviate from "front brake - no throttle". BTW, I am using the reverse button to get out of difficulties where I would normally need to physically haul the bike backward. It also allows, for example, a "3-point turn" to turn around on a narrow trail. I am loving this little E-Trials conversion.
To stop the brake sensors from working. All you needed to do was hold the rabbit mode button down for 10 seconds and it would have shut it off. Also you don’t need a chain stay because the tension on the chain does not change. By either removing it or cutting the bottom of the chain stay off it will reduce 90% of the rear end noise.
I am attracted to the idea of removing the chain stay, but the manufacturer knew the tension does not change. I do not think the chain stay is involved with any chain tensioning but is to prevent the chain from coming off the sprocket from snags or chain-whip. If you removed yours, has the noise abated and have you had any "derailing" problems?
Thanks for the videos. I have converted mine to a trials bike - mostly ACE Hardware engineering (more on that later). I think a lot of my questions on the bike's handling of more difficult terrain were answered. I now have a most perfect mount for easier (I'm 84) trials sections except for the turning radius. I already cut and ground the stops to where the fork legs are right tight (a paper's thickness) to the frame. Any opinions on allowing the legs to "dent" the frame a bit? If I could just get a few degrees more... -Trials tires -Seat pan and pad (standard seat and body trim removed) -custom front fender -kill button & lanyard -'Get me home' bypass switch -Trials number plate and scorecard holder I love having the rear brake up on the bars. No need for me to recalibrate my muscle memory when switching from my MTB. (I always swap levers left & right on my bicycles.)
Sounds like you have 'er set up pretty nice. I'll look at mine a little closer and see what I can come up with to get a few more degrees of turning angle. Thanks for the post and happy trials!!
Your "start button solution is brilliant. It solves the problem "I don't want my brakes to disable the throttle but I need the brake wiring to enable startup". Your momentary switch does the job. My solution is somewhat different. I want to be able to toggle between "brakes disable and brakes do not disable". So I use a 2-position toggle switch. As a matter of fact, and not to confuse matters, I only want the left lever to allow throttle. This lets me get started on severe ups without abrupt throttle. The torque of this bike, even in rabbit mode, can easily overwhelm the rear tire on loose climbs. This is less of a problem taking them at speed but applying throttle at very slow climb speed can be modulated using some rear brake. I chose to leave the front brake alone because my riding has not discovered an essential need to deviate from "front brake - no throttle". BTW, I am using the reverse button to get out of difficulties where I would normally need to physically haul the bike backward. It also allows, for example, a "3-point turn" to turn around on a narrow trail. I am loving this little E-Trials conversion.
To stop the brake sensors from working. All you needed to do was hold the rabbit mode button down for 10 seconds and it would have shut it off.
Also you don’t need a chain stay because the tension on the chain does not change. By either removing it or cutting the bottom of the chain stay off it will reduce 90% of the rear end noise.
Thanks for the info!!! I'll put the wiring back to stock, just rather have it that way!
Thank you do you have any idea on how to keep the bike in rocket mode
@@motor185s I think the controller needs to be re-flashed, but I'm not entirely sure yet
@@motor185ssure buy a YZ 250 and peg the throttle!
I am attracted to the idea of removing the chain stay, but the manufacturer knew the tension does not change. I do not think the chain stay is involved with any chain tensioning but is to prevent the chain from coming off the sprocket from snags or chain-whip. If you removed yours, has the noise abated and have you had any "derailing" problems?
Thanks for the videos. I have converted mine to a trials bike - mostly ACE Hardware engineering (more on that later). I think a lot of my questions on the bike's handling of more difficult terrain were answered. I now have a most perfect mount for easier (I'm 84) trials sections except for the turning radius. I already cut and ground the stops to where the fork legs are right tight (a paper's thickness) to the frame. Any opinions on allowing the legs to "dent" the frame a bit? If I could just get a few degrees more...
-Trials tires
-Seat pan and pad (standard seat and body trim removed)
-custom front fender
-kill button & lanyard
-'Get me home' bypass switch
-Trials number plate and scorecard holder
I love having the rear brake up on the bars. No need for me to recalibrate my muscle memory when switching from my MTB. (I always swap levers left & right on my bicycles.)
Sounds like you have 'er set up pretty nice. I'll look at mine a little closer and see what I can come up with to get a few more degrees of turning angle. Thanks for the post and happy trials!!
Where did you get handguards
Western power sports, I'm a dealer. You can probably get them through Rocky mountain or motosport.
What make and model are those handguards? I am having trouble finding bark busters that fit the end of the stock bars
How many miles on a charge?
roughly 30 miles, but I'm in a wide variety of terrain
Thanks, all I do is mountain single tracks.@@tonysllc