whenever your flatting a finished coat to get rid of any imperfections its easier to use wet and dry and to add some soap to the water then use your various grades of compound ,t cut then final polish.
It looks really nice. My frame respray with rattle cans turned out OK but didn't last. In the end I had it stripped and powder coated (single colour) for about the same as the cost of all the cans and preparation materials. This was 5 years back and the finish is very durable.
rattle cans are too diluted less than 15% paint the rest are propellant and thinner so it sprays out of the nozzle with minimal internal pressure thats why they dilute them. If you used 20 cans that would be equivalent to a regular paint spray thats why rattle cans are NOT the process for a "good" paint job for quick jobs to cover up bad/old/faded....yes it works but for a lasting beautiful paint job go for the real thing or in your case powder coat which is expensive but worth what you pay for as painting with spray cans ain't quick and easy.....since its so thin the waiting to dry between coats is too long and if your in a hurry you get orange peel its a waste of time and effort in my opinion if what someone wanted is a lasting paint job.
definitely. if anyone is reading this, start on a less-visible area to get the feel for how much sanding is needed. then if you go too far (dry it off to check) it wont be right where you can easily see your mistake!
I have 2 Univegas..These bikes have a great ride quality..You inspirer me to paint my 1985 Schwinn Tempo..Schwinn used Panasonic to build the frame for that model..I bought that bike new in 1985 and couldn’t part with it..Great job Mike 👍
If taking off decals a hot air gun, I did my 1987 Tange Infinity frame about a month ago, used paint stripper to a point and then a wire wheel on angle grinder lightly took the rest off in 5 min and works well around the curves and joint areas. Wax and grease remover before painting the most important thing. Three light coats of undercoat, let dry for a day then 3 top coats drying for a day again followed by 2-3 clear coats.
Ah, man... that Univega brings back good memories!! I had a blue "Viva Sport"? (I think it was called) as an early teen in the mid 80s. Loved that thing!! Thanks for postig! I have my fathers mid 80s Pinarello that I'm looking to restore, so appreciate your time in making this video!
These are great fundamental steps to your process that show people how they can do the same. However, it's the small steps that make all the difference between rough finish DIY and semi-pro/professional look. I didn't see sanding between coats or the base coat which would help. 2K clear is difficult to flatten and get a glass finish from heavy orange peel. You'll have to lay it on thiick if you know it will be rough because it will be wet sanded down. So it is important to get as smooth a finish as you can when you lay it down.
when i painted my bumper on my truck, I was told to let the 2k sit in hot water prior to spraying. People swear it'll cut back on orange peel. My bumper turned out perfect. No wet-sanding required. I'm getting ready to custom paint some of my bicycles, so hopefully I'll have the same result.
Any tips for doing this on a bike with a threaded stem? Should I take the press fitted bearings off? (It would then be very tough to get them back on) or should I tape over them and paint ?
Very nice. 2K clear coat if breathed will REALLY Fs up your lungs apparently. If inside, wear the right kind of mask (for solvents, not just any mask). Masking question. How do you get a clean cut between 2 colours?
You only get ORANGE PEEL if you put the coat on too think, too quick and do not give it time to semi dry. A good trick is a scrap car (but with doors and windows), take the seats out and then on a hot summers day, spray the frame inside which will cook the paint nicely. Give it a light coat every time the paint feels tacky to the touch.
Beautiful work!! Well done!! What was the time line between adding the primer once you got the paint off to spray painting with colour and then to the clear coat??
montana cans sono per graffiti soprattutto quelle opache sono ruvide al tatto quindi se vuoi una finitura liscia vanno carteggiate, secondo quando spruzzi stai troppo distante e vai troppo veloce, il trasparente va dato uniforme o si rischia che faccia la ''buccia d'arancia'' o rimane ruvida. per levarla basta passare prima la 1000/1500 e poi la 2000 e dopo il polish, spero di esserti stato utile. per il resto hai fatto un buon lavoro adoro il colore che hai usato sulla parte della ruota dietro
When you were done, and the paint had time to dry and cure, did you find the paint to still be soft and chip, or scrape easily when, say leaning it against a wall or a pole (if locking it to a bike post outdoors, etc)
What did you use after realizing hand sanding wouldn't be enough? Running into the same problem right now but don't want to strip too much metal away with certain power tools.
Awesome video. I want to repaint my old 8500 Trek. How do you make or where do you get your stencils? In my opinion the job isn’t complete without them. Thanks.
Very nice video. I am planning to paint my vintage french bike as well. I would like to know how did you get those custom stickers printed that you used for the logos ?
I painted an aluminum frame with rattle-can Rusto-oleum Automotive acid etching primer. I thought the acid etching primer took too long to dry. It was sandable but it wasn't really dry for about 2 weeks. After it dried the was stuck on good and chip-resistant. I tested it on some handlebars. I got good results but I don't like to wait that long. I would rather mix acid etching epoxy primer in a spray gun.
I used, used brake fluid to remove the old paint. I just keep brushing it on and keep it soaked for about a week. The paint comes off to the bare metal easily with a brass brush soap and water.
That can work but you will want to get aircraft grade as the stuff you can buy at Lowe’s won’t do anything to bike paint. Just make sure to clean the frame really well before you prime it.
This is a series. There are 3 videos in that series. Here is a link to the playlist with them in there. th-cam.com/play/PLALZVHdIBx98kAycxL4pCh-UTfM0iGyBU.html
Spray painting is wasting time and money. No matter how well the surface is prepared and good products are used, in a year or a little more it will begin to peel. Just have a professional do it with baked paint or epoxy. You will not regret. It's my experience on several bikes I've painted.
Yes, I know is impossible to clean the lugs with sandpaper and brush, the other option is sandblasting. Personally I used the chemical paint remover and it worked very well for me.
Why did you cut and destroy perfectly good vintage brake cables and probably also the chain too!? It goes against the whole idea and ethos of restoration.
Very nice job! Older bikes deserve restoration.
The bicycle looks amazing! I 'am getting ready to paint mine so I am doing a bit of research. Thank you for the video.
Looks Good!! I like older bikes better than the new ones..
Super job on the bike...
whenever your flatting a finished coat to get rid of any imperfections its easier to use wet and dry and to add some soap to the water then use your various grades of compound ,t cut then final polish.
So glad I found this! I found a 1983 Univega Nuovo Sport put out with the trash after someone’s garage clean out. Similar condition to yours.
So very nice just to hear the tools working, and also the relaxing music in background. Great.
Nice work dude! I'm riding Ragbrai on my 80's Univega Supra Sport this summer.
Well done fantastic job it was so video 10 times so good please watch this video fantastic I was so excited looking all different layers paint going
The bike looks amazing, keep it up you will be giving Old Shovel some competition....looking forward to the finish
Thanks John. I am having a lot of fun with this bike.
It looks really nice.
My frame respray with rattle cans turned out OK but didn't last. In the end I had it stripped and powder coated (single colour) for about the same as the cost of all the cans and preparation materials.
This was 5 years back and the finish is very durable.
rattle cans are too diluted less than 15% paint the rest are propellant and thinner so it sprays out of the nozzle with minimal internal pressure thats why they dilute them. If you used 20 cans that would be equivalent to a regular paint spray thats why rattle cans are NOT the process for a "good" paint job for quick jobs to cover up bad/old/faded....yes it works but for a lasting beautiful paint job go for the real thing or in your case powder coat which is expensive but worth what you pay for as painting with spray cans ain't quick and easy.....since its so thin the waiting to dry between coats is too long and if your in a hurry you get orange peel its a waste of time and effort in my opinion if what someone wanted is a lasting paint job.
i was about to make the same comment.
Incredible paint job, looks so good!
Amazing resto paint job , great work , and yes Montana is the best paint
How beautiful!!! pool blue/navy color looks amazing ! (from Japan)
Thank you for posting. I have a mid 80's Trek road bike I need to restore and this was helpful.
Nice project!
Absolutely stunning colors! Very nice done! And super brave you started wet sanding on the top tube. ❤🔥
definitely. if anyone is reading this, start on a less-visible area to get the feel for how much sanding is needed. then if you go too far (dry it off to check) it wont be right where you can easily see your mistake!
Looks terrific
Love those colors you chose! They really work well with each other.
Well Done, Good Man
I have 2 Univegas..These bikes have a great ride quality..You inspirer me to paint my 1985 Schwinn Tempo..Schwinn used Panasonic to build the frame for that model..I bought that bike new in 1985 and couldn’t part with it..Great job Mike 👍
Turned out great, well done 👍🏼
Great video Bro!! The bike looks soo amazing!!
Wow! Really love how this turned out. Great work👊🏻
Enjoy watching your videos.
Thanks for sharing this video
If taking off decals a hot air gun, I did my 1987 Tange Infinity frame about a month ago, used paint stripper to a point and then a wire wheel on angle grinder lightly took the rest off in 5 min and works well around the curves and joint areas. Wax and grease remover before painting the most important thing. Three light coats of undercoat, let dry for a day then 3 top coats drying for a day again followed by 2-3 clear coats.
Etoe has some good vids on painting frames.one on clear coating.
I did a Univega 24" bmx cruiser with Matte 2K and it turned out awesome. You should definitely check out the matte spray. Great video man!
Ah, man... that Univega brings back good memories!! I had a blue "Viva Sport"? (I think it was called) as an early teen in the mid 80s. Loved that thing!! Thanks for postig! I have my fathers mid 80s Pinarello that I'm looking to restore, so appreciate your time in making this video!
These are great fundamental steps to your process that show people how they can do the same. However, it's the small steps that make all the difference between rough finish DIY and semi-pro/professional look. I didn't see sanding between coats or the base coat which would help. 2K clear is difficult to flatten and get a glass finish from heavy orange peel. You'll have to lay it on thiick if you know it will be rough because it will be wet sanded down. So it is important to get as smooth a finish as you can when you lay it down.
formidable mais je me sent complètement incapable de faire la même chose .
Vous ête formidable bravo.
when i painted my bumper on my truck, I was told to let the 2k sit in hot water prior to spraying. People swear it'll cut back on orange peel. My bumper turned out perfect. No wet-sanding required. I'm getting ready to custom paint some of my bicycles, so hopefully I'll have the same result.
Man you are the Best .wish you lived in Australia I'd 160%Get you to restore some of my bicycles. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks 😊
i had the exact same bike...donated to a reuse center and i wish i hadn't
Amazing 👏💯
Thanks 😊
Love the colors!! Looks awesome. I'm not sure it's wise to was the internals of the frame with water.
Love the colour scheme, but why didn't you fill the small dent in the top tube seen at around 14:50 ? seems an oversight after all the effort put in.
I wish I would have. But at the time I wasn’t super confident I could fill it correctly. I should have tried.
@@RunBikeMikeModest honesty - love it.
What an awsome job youve done 👍 just subbed in 👌
Hi! Can I ask the name of the music that plays through this video? Thanks!
You could do the sanding prep and check if a body shop could paint it when they were doing a car.
Where did you get a decals?
I made them with a cricut.
Any tips for doing this on a bike with a threaded stem? Should I take the press fitted bearings off? (It would then be very tough to get them back on) or should I tape over them and paint ?
Very nice. 2K clear coat if breathed will REALLY Fs up your lungs apparently. If inside, wear the right kind of mask (for solvents, not just any mask).
Masking question. How do you get a clean cut between 2 colours?
WOW so much patience. I would just paint single colour primer then colour.
You only get ORANGE PEEL if you put the coat on too think, too quick and do not give it time to semi dry. A good trick is a scrap car (but with doors and windows), take the seats out and then on a hot summers day, spray the frame inside which will cook the paint nicely.
Give it a light coat every time the paint feels tacky to the touch.
Beautiful work!! Well done!! What was the time line between adding the primer once you got the paint off to spray painting with colour and then to the clear coat??
If I remember correctly it was a few hours between coats of paint then I waited over a day I believe before the clear coat.
Hi, I wonder how did you make that new UNIVEGA stickers...
I used a cricut to make them.
Nice video, where did you get the decals from?
I got images off the internet then cleaned them up in photoshop. Then used a Cricut to cut them out in vinyl.
montana cans sono per graffiti soprattutto quelle opache sono ruvide al tatto quindi se vuoi una finitura liscia vanno carteggiate, secondo quando spruzzi stai troppo distante e vai troppo veloce, il trasparente va dato uniforme o si rischia che faccia la ''buccia d'arancia'' o rimane ruvida. per levarla basta passare prima la 1000/1500 e poi la 2000 e dopo il polish, spero di esserti stato utile. per il resto hai fatto un buon lavoro adoro il colore che hai usato sulla parte della ruota dietro
Really amazing !! Where did you get those decals??
I made them and cut them out on a Cricut.
Cool! The letters Univega are great. Do you have more of those ?
When you were done, and the paint had time to dry and cure, did you find the paint to still be soft and chip, or scrape easily when, say leaning it against a wall or a pole (if locking it to a bike post outdoors, etc)
It wasn’t as strong as car paint. I think if I did more clear it would have been.
@@RunBikeMike Good to know. Thanks!
Awesome! inspired me to paint my 50s schwinn varsity.
How did you get those stickers/vinyls made?
I made them with my daughters Cricut
What did you use after realizing hand sanding wouldn't be enough? Running into the same problem right now but don't want to strip too much metal away with certain power tools.
Orbital sander it made fast work.
Sweet, thank you! what grit on the orbital?
60 and 80 then used a high grit by hand to get rid of any scratches.
Awesome video. I want to repaint my old 8500 Trek. How do you make or where do you get your stencils? In my opinion the job isn’t complete without them. Thanks.
I made them on my computer then cut them with a Cricut.
@@RunBikeMike awesome I found some videos on how it works. Thank you 👊🏻
Very nice video. I am planning to paint my vintage french bike as well. I would like to know how did you get those custom stickers printed that you used for the logos ?
I designed them and cut them out on a Cricut.
Mate you have done incredible... Where and how did you get those little personal decal stencil stickers from?
Thank you. I created the decals myself on my Cricut.
I painted an aluminum frame with rattle-can Rusto-oleum Automotive acid etching primer. I thought the acid etching primer took too long to dry. It was sandable but it wasn't really dry for about 2 weeks. After it dried the was stuck on good and chip-resistant. I tested it on some handlebars. I got good results but I don't like to wait that long. I would rather mix acid etching epoxy primer in a spray gun.
I dropped the handlebars on concrete 3 times before the paint chipped. The primer under it didn't chip. It's good stuff if you like to wait.
I used, used brake fluid to remove the old paint. I just keep brushing it on and keep it soaked for about a week. The paint comes off to the bare metal easily with a brass brush soap and water.
Enjoyed watching and learning from your process. I have a Univega Via DeOro I am about to work on. Did you create the rub on decals or purchase them?
I created them on a Cricut
Enjoyed the video. The restoration is just beautiful. How does she ride?
I am so surprised at how well it rode. Next week I should have the finish build video up.
How long did you wait for the 2k clear to dry before wet sand/ assemble?
If I remember correctly it was about 24-48 hours.
Your decal stickers didn't leave any glue on the frame? Ours did, now thinking how to remove it carefully.
No, I used the removable Cricut brand vinyl.
Beautiful! Did you custom print the stickers?
Yes I did make them myself.
Don't you have to sand down your primer a bit before adding the color?
The fork was threaded and stem threadless?
It is a Quill stem adapter
Is it a bad idea to buy paint remover chemical and then strip it down to bare metal, then prime and then paint?
That can work but you will want to get aircraft grade as the stuff you can buy at Lowe’s won’t do anything to bike paint. Just make sure to clean the frame really well before you prime it.
I sanded mine to metal, and decided to clear it
Why didn’t you show it complete with wheels, handle bars, etc, pedals, etc?
This is a series. There are 3 videos in that series. Here is a link to the playlist with them in there. th-cam.com/play/PLALZVHdIBx98kAycxL4pCh-UTfM0iGyBU.html
At this point, after a little over a year of this video, if the bike was used, it must surely be chipped in several places.
Why not bondo that little dent on the frame
I wish I would have
You were going to leave the original chromoly decal I believe. Too much trouble to work around?
Yeah it was going to be to hard to save it
Dang..is every bike medium/ large and extra large...cant find a decent project bike small...aggghhh..!
Just use a hair dryer on hi and they will peel right off
Paint stripper or an acid bath...
Spray painting is wasting time and money. No matter how well the surface is prepared and good products are used, in a year or a little more it will begin to peel. Just have a professional do it with baked paint or epoxy. You will not regret. It's my experience on several bikes I've painted.
Not if you use 2k clearcoat
Don't agree
@@petergiourelas3753 Perhaps you are not using your bike enough. The bike won't peel while hanging.
I couldn’t be bothered doing all that work on a frame that was crap when it was new
Ok thanks for taking the time to comment that
The lugs are not clean
Because is almost impossible to clean the lugs with sandpaper and wirebrush I personally used a chemical paint remover
Yes, I know is impossible to clean the lugs with sandpaper and brush, the other option is sandblasting. Personally I used the chemical paint remover and it worked very well for me.
you really don't need music :/
Ok
Why did you cut and destroy perfectly good vintage brake cables and probably also the chain too!? It goes against the whole idea and ethos of restoration.
Did you see them?
NOT GOOD
Thank you
But where would I run...Hahaha...
There's this thing called time lapse...
Where did you get the stencils?
I made them
@@RunBikeMike nice. Would love to be able to do that. Any chance you’d make a video on that?