Thanks, nicely presented video. Just one question: Why not just use the existing opening on top of the tank for letting the rainwater in? It can be fitted with a filtering screen that is available from the manufacturer, and which will then provide you with even better filtered water.
Unless I missed it somewhere... can you please add the list of all equipment used to complete this? Including tools... there are many beginner DIY people that would appreciate it.
every community needs group of neighbors who do this for each other. Five or 10 ppl and they install system on all their homes. 1st one is the worst. 10th is professional quality.
Why not drill a hole on the tank lid and use a leaf catcher in there? Is it not cheaper and easier to have that as opposed to an external leaf catcher ?
What's the pupose of the ball you installed inside the flush line? The tee junction, I dont think is viable cause water dirty debris can splash in before goin to the flush mechanism.
When the 1st flush line fills up the ball rises to the top and seals against a rib on the inside of the pipe. This is not shown or explained in the video. So when the clean water arrives (several litres later) it hits the top of the ball and heads off to the tank. If there was no ball, the clean water would continue to churn up the dirty water with the possibility of some of the messy water being deposited in the tank. Hope that explains it.
Great video! Is it possible to connect it with the munisipal water supply? Also can it be used to the entire water supply for the kitchen such as the tap filter, zinc and washing machine?
Hi Vicky, no you don’t need to do the electrical work first. All the pumps are fitted with a plug which needs to be connected to your electrical point when you want to use the water under a pressurized supply. You can install the tank first and get started with capturing your rainwater. Andrew doesn't recommend using an entry level pump for an irrigation system as that requires a higher pressure and increased flow rate. Check out the following clips which assist you in selecting the right size pump. th-cam.com/video/lKUvxyd22No/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/wa1KWOnAgV0/w-d-xo.html
Can I install the flush system/ leaf eater to a current gutter? I don’t have a hundred foot ladder or access to the roof in order to replace the duct. Will the water be safe for the plants keeping on half of the original material.
Where does the ball seal the first flush water ? Did you leave that part out or just not show it ? The ball needs a sealing surface once the riser is full.
the T fitting on the First Flush Kit has a seat on the bottom vertical that the ball seats into as the water rises, thereby diverting the water to the horizontal outlet of the T to the tank.
Honestly filtering the water for drinking will be a costly process. You could from the tank install an incline spun polyethylene filter system. It will filter the water as you need it but it would be low volume.
G-day, mate. No Americans know anything about rainwater harvesting. Thanks to you guys, the few of us who want to learn have someone who can show them what to do. We think rainwater is bad, but we've poison everything with industrial agriculture and chemicals. And after that crap makes it to our treatment plant, we add more chemicals. Thank God for the rain.
Are all first flush systems the same size (length of pipe)? Would you recommend a first flush system for those in rural eswatini? Do they require a lot maintenance or just periodic removal of that bottom piece? Rinse and then replace the ball?
@@shyammohansharma8919 ok.. thats a long way from me here in South Africa but it does not matter...the principle is not dependent on locality. Varanasi is beautiful. I've been there!!! Method 1. the quickest method. Join all the downpipes at ground level and run the piping to the storage tanks BUT Remember to have the lead to enter the TOP of the storage tank. I am making the assumption that the top of your storage tank is LOWER THAN the gutters. Am I correct in that assumption?? At the base of the storage tank put a T joint with a ballvalve in the closed position. After the rain... you can release the water in the pipelines by opening the ballvalve you installed at the T. Make sure to close it after you release the water from the piping . That ballvalve must be in the closed position at all times ensuring that water during the rainy period collects in the pipe, rises in the pipe leading to the top of the storage tank to enter the storage tank from above . The ballvalve is only opened to release water left in the pipe after the rain has stopped. When joining the downpipes at the bottom, use the same fittings and piping as the downpipes but you can bury the joined piping underground so that its more aesthetically pleasing and the same applies to the common lead pipe to the storage tank. try and create a slight gradient from the start of the lead pipe to the base of the storage tank so sat there is rapid flow in the lead pipe towards the storage tank. At the base of the storage tank you oukd have inserted your T joint with a ballvalve and right angled the other end vertically so as to feed the water to the top of the storage tank leading into the tank. If you bury the piping, make sure the exit piping from the T joint to release water in the piping daylights at some point so that the water can come out when the ballvalve is opened. If its not possible to have the release piping to daylight, you can have it daylights into a drum or barrel which can be buried and then you can remove the water by hand or a small submersible or fountain pump. You are welcome to send me your details if you wish further clarity as I have installed several rainwater systems in South Africa and have done same at my own home. All the best!!!!
@@vineshdevchander1894 thank you sir. I will consider your method when I start some reconstruction work. Right now I have connected the down pipe which collects largest portion of roof area to a 2000 liter tank placed in my ground floor. It got full in the very first rain lol.
@@shyammohansharma8919 All good...just remember to have a first flush installed at each down pipe OR better still...also have a common sand trap like box unit which is intermediate between the roof and the tanks.... well worth it!!!... My current system is in excess of 100KL storage and I'm able to run my home and veggie garden from season to season... independent of municipal water!!! I'm here if you need help and assistance... Stay Safe!!! All the Best!!!
The length of the pipe (with the screw cap at the bottom) is arbitrary. All that it does is to collect 'heavier than water' particles. You will still have a problem with bird droppings that float so there make sure that your filter mesh at the inlet to the tank is in good condition and clean.
I'm confused, what is that wall and pump base made of so that you can just hammer in a screw, and why are you hammering the screw? Good tutorial, but i really am confused
Hi, those are nail in anchors. Andrew drilled a hole first in the concrete and then just hammered the anchor into position. They work well. The screw allows you to remove it if needed. NM
he should of put that anchor strap flush with the T pvc or else it is just gonna slide down over time and possible pull out the anchor. that is probably over 5 gallons of water below the T. just a thought
Wow, alot of water wastage in the leaf shield catchment area, this is why I always use 50 or 80mm, 110 is a total overkill even in the heaviest of rain. 80mm woes not have that issue, also cut the pipe at 45 degrees upwards for the leaf tray in heavy rain if pushes the water to the top and not to the bottom where the leaves fall and avoids that nasty spillage.
You're saying the diameter of the first flush is too big? But, don't you want to get rid of a certain volume to make sure you wash off all (most of) the bird poop, pollen, and whatever chemicals may have floated over to your roof, before you start collecting?
@@solfeinberg437 Not the first flush itself. China town you can get first flush in 80mm. I just love the "neatest" setup and I find that with 80mm. To help with the other stuff as well, get gutter guards and clean gutters (with bleach) fortnightly. First flush I would say is necessary but lots of people don't use them.....PS: First flush wont get rid of the chemicals. Also if you setting up, get filters (at least 2). But this video is great, absolutely recommended!
check you local laws and reg's, some companies and states consider rainwater harvesting as stealing, no, seriously, California does not allow residence to do this
Thanks for the great guide Kevin Spacey
Awesome Engineering Skills and Helpful
Thanks, nicely presented video. Just one question: Why not just use the existing opening on top of the tank for letting the rainwater in? It can be fitted with a filtering screen that is available from the manufacturer, and which will then provide you with even better filtered water.
What's the capacity of your tank? Are you planning to build a tiny shed over the tank, simply to create a shadow? Or plant a tree close to it?
Unless I missed it somewhere... can you please add the list of all equipment used to complete this? Including tools... there are many beginner DIY people that would appreciate it.
Hammer, masonry drill, hole saw, pliers
Pipe cement, Level, Hammer, Drill, hole saw and Woodsaw
What kind of pump?
@@TheSharlethaGwater pump.
That ball. Does it float? What does it do?
every community needs group of neighbors who do this for each other. Five or 10 ppl and they install system on all their homes. 1st one is the worst. 10th is professional quality.
Just wondering what will happen if the water tank is full? Do you need to install an overflow valve?
Then use more water or see how to use those water in kitchen, washing machine.
overflows to the neighbor's section
Very nice presentation. Great stuff.
Awesome video. Thank you. Is there a video showing how to choose pumps?
Brilliant idea whose time has come.
2024, I am a happy woman with your lesson ....❤
What's your overflow plan?
Thanks for a nice DIY video
Raincell
Why not drill a hole on the tank lid and use a leaf catcher in there? Is it not cheaper and easier to have that as opposed to an external leaf catcher ?
Great system. That`s pretty much what I want to do. Thanks!
What's the pupose of the ball you installed inside the flush line? The tee junction, I dont think is viable cause water dirty debris can splash in before goin to the flush mechanism.
Would also like to know
When the 1st flush line fills up the ball rises to the top and seals against a rib on the inside of the pipe. This is not shown or explained in the video. So when the clean water arrives (several litres later) it hits the top of the ball and heads off to the tank. If there was no ball, the clean water would continue to churn up the dirty water with the possibility of some of the messy water being deposited in the tank. Hope that explains it.
Thank you sir. It is very useful.
top of the pops.
Nice job! Was that a water level gauge that looked kinda like an old-school alarm clock,?
So well explained ❤
Beautiful presentation
Great video! Is it possible to connect it with the munisipal water supply? Also can it be used to the entire water supply for the kitchen such as the tap filter, zinc and washing machine?
"munisipal" 🤦🏻♂️
Do I need to do the electrical work first before installing the rain water for the pump? And is it possible to connect this to my sprinklers?
Hi Vicky, no you don’t need to do the electrical work first. All the pumps are fitted with a plug which needs to be connected to your electrical point when you want to use the water under a pressurized supply.
You can install the tank first and get started with capturing your rainwater. Andrew doesn't recommend using an entry level pump for an irrigation system as that requires a higher pressure and increased flow rate.
Check out the following clips which assist you in selecting the right size pump.
th-cam.com/video/lKUvxyd22No/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/wa1KWOnAgV0/w-d-xo.html
Can I install the flush system/ leaf eater to a current gutter? I don’t have a hundred foot ladder or access to the roof in order to replace the duct. Will the water be safe for the plants keeping on half of the original material.
Where does the ball seal the first flush water ? Did you leave that part out or just not show it ? The ball needs a sealing surface once the riser is full.
the T fitting on the First Flush Kit has a seat on the bottom vertical that the ball seats into as the water rises, thereby diverting the water to the horizontal outlet of the T to the tank.
What type of filteration system would you put if you were going to use the captured rainwater for drinking and cooking?
Honestly filtering the water for drinking will be a costly process. You could from the tank install an incline spun polyethylene filter system. It will filter the water as you need it but it would be low volume.
Great video, thank you!
G-day, mate. No Americans know anything about rainwater harvesting. Thanks to you guys, the few of us who want to learn have someone who can show them what to do. We think rainwater is bad, but we've poison everything with industrial agriculture and chemicals. And after that crap makes it to our treatment plant, we add more chemicals. Thank God for the rain.
Did that pipe go in on the first push before the footage got cut mate?
Thank you so much and I subscribed! 😊
No overflow outlet pipe. And what about tank cleaning procedure...
What size is the tank ?
Brilliant video, thank you!
Brilliant video
Can you show above video in more detail
Great. Thank you.
Super sir
what´s the function of the black ball?
😊wheredo you buy that ball that floats?
Are some of these components sold in the usa?
No, these are all South African produced equipment, but the US will have similar equivalents.
Are all first flush systems the same size (length of pipe)? Would you recommend a first flush system for those in rural eswatini? Do they require a lot maintenance or just periodic removal of that bottom piece? Rinse and then replace the ball?
Unscrew the cap at the bottom after it has rained to release the muck that came from the roof.
What kind of pipe is that you are using? Is it schedule 40?
What type are those clamps in the video for holding the horizontal pipe? Need those for my project.
Exceptional. But you used only one rain water riser .!!! Can you get use of all the rain coming from roof ?
Where can one do training to do this? Videos are useful but hands on training also helps
1:40
That's a clean wall...
Can you add more pipes on top by the wall to collect more rain? only 1 pipe is bringing in rain
You don't run the pipe to the bottom of the tank?
Issue is my roof have 5 down pipes to drain the rain water at different corners. How to collect them at one point?
there are a couple of ways to do it...
where are you located???
@@vineshdevchander1894 I am in varanasi, uttar pradesh india.
@@shyammohansharma8919 ok.. thats a long way from me here in South Africa but it does not matter...the principle is not dependent on locality. Varanasi is beautiful. I've been there!!!
Method 1. the quickest method.
Join all the downpipes at ground level and run the piping to the storage tanks BUT Remember to have the lead to enter the TOP of the storage tank. I am making the assumption that the top of your storage tank is LOWER THAN the gutters. Am I correct in that assumption??
At the base of the storage tank put a T joint with a ballvalve in the closed position. After the rain... you can release the water in the pipelines by opening the ballvalve you installed at the T. Make sure to close it after you release the water from the piping . That ballvalve must be in the closed position at all times ensuring that water during the rainy period collects in the pipe, rises in the pipe leading to the top of the storage tank to enter the storage tank from above . The ballvalve is only opened to release water left in the pipe after the rain has stopped.
When joining the downpipes at the bottom, use the same fittings and piping as the downpipes but you can bury the joined piping underground so that its more aesthetically pleasing and the same applies to the common lead pipe to the storage tank. try and create a slight gradient from the start of the lead pipe to the base of the storage tank so sat there is rapid flow in the lead pipe towards the storage tank. At the base of the storage tank you oukd have inserted your T joint with a ballvalve and right angled the other end vertically so as to feed the water to the top of the storage tank leading into the tank.
If you bury the piping, make sure the exit piping from the T joint to release water in the piping daylights at some point so that the water can come out when the ballvalve is opened. If its not possible to have the release piping to daylight, you can have it daylights into a drum or barrel which can be buried and then you can remove the water by hand or a small submersible or fountain pump.
You are welcome to send me your details if you wish further clarity as I have installed several rainwater systems in South Africa and have done same at my own home. All the best!!!!
@@vineshdevchander1894 thank you sir. I will consider your method when I start some reconstruction work. Right now I have connected the down pipe which collects largest portion of roof area to a 2000 liter tank placed in my ground floor. It got full in the very first rain lol.
@@shyammohansharma8919 All good...just remember to have a first flush installed at each down pipe OR better still...also have a common sand trap like box unit which is intermediate between the roof and the tanks.... well worth it!!!... My current system is in excess of 100KL storage and I'm able to run my home and veggie garden from season to season... independent of municipal water!!!
I'm here if you need help and assistance... Stay Safe!!! All the Best!!!
Why glue the pvc? Water going down has no pressure
“Now, do you have extruded polyvinyl foam insulation?”
“No”
“Good, assemble the aluminum J channel using self furring screws. Install!”
brilliant thanks mate
Great idea
What would happen if the cut out from the hole saw fell into the tank? I imagine at least some debris did
Yes, I would add a water filter before the pump inlet.
Where is the overflow back into the storm water?
Thanks .....
when harvesting rainwater - overflow on tank should be connected to rwp - risk of tank plinth/ foundation failure.
How do you size the first flush system with relation to the size of the roof you're collecting the rainwater from?
The length of the pipe (with the screw cap at the bottom) is arbitrary. All that it does is to collect 'heavier than water' particles. You will still have a problem with bird droppings that float so there make sure that your filter mesh at the inlet to the tank is in good condition and clean.
We have 5000 gallons of rain water in our system. I'm posting videos of the system build now.
Still used power, means you still have to pay for it. I’ve built mine is gravity feed😅
Where does the excess water drain out to? Out of the hole you drilled? Great system.... 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
I'm confused, what is that wall and pump base made of so that you can just hammer in a screw, and why are you hammering the screw? Good tutorial, but i really am confused
Hi, those are nail in anchors. Andrew drilled a hole first in the concrete and then just hammered the anchor into position. They work well. The screw allows you to remove it if needed. NM
Excellent
Thanks for not cluttering this video with imperial and american standard units . . .
he should of put that anchor strap flush with the T pvc or else it is just gonna slide down over time and possible pull out the anchor. that is probably over 5 gallons of water below the T. just a thought
This video is really cool, have you ever built any rainwater harvesting system with modular tanks?
Good
You got a footer under that pad?
00:48 What is that fitting called and what does it do? I couldn't get that particular part.
Wheres the vent hole on top?
Should have explained and told to measure the catcher to down pipe first to know your slope.
Wow, alot of water wastage in the leaf shield catchment area, this is why I always use 50 or 80mm, 110 is a total overkill even in the heaviest of rain. 80mm woes not have that issue, also cut the pipe at 45 degrees upwards for the leaf tray in heavy rain if pushes the water to the top and not to the bottom where the leaves fall and avoids that nasty spillage.
You're saying the diameter of the first flush is too big? But, don't you want to get rid of a certain volume to make sure you wash off all (most of) the bird poop, pollen, and whatever chemicals may have floated over to your roof, before you start collecting?
@@solfeinberg437 Not the first flush itself. China town you can get first flush in 80mm. I just love the "neatest" setup and I find that with 80mm. To help with the other stuff as well, get gutter guards and clean gutters (with bleach) fortnightly. First flush I would say is necessary but lots of people don't use them.....PS: First flush wont get rid of the chemicals. Also if you setting up, get filters (at least 2). But this video is great, absolutely recommended!
@@garethcollocott6310 Agree. That monster pipe for 1st flush is not necessary.
I think you should have flushed the dirt and plastic chips inside container first before connecting it to the pump.
What about all the debris that fell into the tank when you cut the hole?
Hi, Andrew used a Leaf Eater that directs leaves and debris away from the flow of water before it enters into the tank. NM
BuildersFan I think road to mars is referring to the plastic filings from the holesaw
teflon tape too.
How about the bugs getting in the tank around the pipe on top?
Hi Barn, Andrew used a Leaf Eater that directs leaves and debris away from the flow of water before it enters into the tank. NM
why 1.1m long?
The links above is not responsive
check you local laws and reg's, some companies and states consider rainwater harvesting as stealing, no, seriously, California does not allow residence to do this
Rain capture act of 2012 allows residents to catch rainwater
Plumb, not level👍😆👁👁🇺🇸
😮🤔 ബലി🕵🏼️😂😊
LOL
Shit audio mate
Great idea