Back in the 80's, I had a coworker who had a few acres of land on the outskirts of town in southern New Mexico. On it, he had a pecan orchard. The orchard had it's own well. What was interesting was that he had installed a water tower for the orchard. The orchard well was powered by an old fashioned wind mill with an electric pump as backup. The windmill was strong enough to pump the water from the ground and to the tank (about 20 feet high). When I asked him why the 'antique', he said electricity costs money, the wind is free. Remember, back then, solar cells were expensive and not as good as today's. It might be an option for those who have land where the wind is fairly steady.
Actually, almost all of Oregon has a very long drought almost all summer long. Same for western Washington, that's why they have evergreen trees not so much deciduous trees. The size of cistern for this area is absolutely enormous if you are thinking of summer irrigation.
@@westerncowhand7814 That would depend upon the system used for irrigation. There, he used a buried drip system. Essentially, like a surface drip system, but buried about 3-4 inches under the surface. Because it is buried it doesn't evaporate as quickly as surface drip or sprinklers in the desert heat and can soak down to the roots. Using less water for equal results. The tank was mostly to provide pressure to get the water through the network of plumbing. The point being that if you can find a way to use water efficiently in a desert, it would probably work nearly anywhere else even better. Learn and adapt, repeat. That is what truly separates us from the other animals.
@@FelonyVideos Windmills, not wind turbines, are very simple machines that could be made from almost anything. I've seen one made from an old bicycle wheel with cardboard taped to the spokes, and a piece of rebar for a shaft, which had a fin on the end to keep it pointed into the wind. It was used to drive a couple of bicycle generators, which charged a motorcycle battery. This was hooked up to some LED lights (Chrismas lights, I think). It was a demonstration of survival techniques in a post apocalyptic world (after a many fermentation-based beverages kind of discussion). In other words, nerds gone wild! Needless to say, not a lot of money spent. Perhaps, it may inspire you to experiment yourself.
I lived for years only on rainwater with a 5000 gallon tank. Sounds like a lot, but moving from town to country, we consumed far more water than we realised. At one point when we had to buy in water by tanker, we stirred up sludge at the bottom of that tank. My biggest learning curve was understanding how much water we used, and also that eventually your body adapts to the taste and bugs in the water ( that included dead birds and a possum in the bottom of that tank sludge). Dont stir it up, leave it be - covering water is important, but expect its going to happen no matter how careful you are
I grew up on a farm that had a single 5000 gallon cement tank and that served a family of four for 20 years. The big secret that people forget is that you DON'T need huge water storage capacity. What you need is the biggest catchment area you can get. On the Farm, we had the house, 90 foot x 90 foot square and also the shed which was 20 foot x 36 foot. What that means is that even a light shower of rain would usually top off tank.
Just redid my system and added a LeafEater at the down spout looks just like yours. I also installed a bulkhead fitting at the connection at the top of the tank so that connection is totally secure. You provided a lot of good info, thanks for posting the video.
We've been on 100% rainwater for several years now, set-up videos on our channel. We use it for everything in our homestead. 5000 gal is usually enough unless we have a really dry season.
We recently moved to our "deep rural" farm with a 60' x 45' metal roof barn. Rainwater collection is our obvious choice. Wells here produce massively hard water unless you sink a deep well for $17k. Rain water is soft, clean, and tastes great. Our system will include livestock water but won't cost near that of sinking a deep well. Great video!
We keeps our under cement shed and blue roof covered. We also have solar water heater and solar water distiller on our cement roof along with wrought iron cage we built on the cement roof to protect from hurricanes. Along with our solar panels for our house and air conditioning. We live in 3.5 acre home on the island. We are retired and we started building our cement house 36 years ago when the economy was good paid cash. I’m a retired nurse, and we didn’t want to live in the states in a cheap wood house. I been married 36 years and we worked hard on our goals. My husband is a workaholic and goal oriented. I learn to do everything in TH-cam.
Thanks for the video. We had 10,650 gallons of outside storage and another 3K under the crawlspace for emergencies (think February 2021) and still would watch the collection tank overflow in our NW of Houston household collection system. A couple ideas you may not have considered-we had our tanks in the shaded woods so we painted the tanks forest green but we also painted our above ground PVC piping which made it blend in AND protected it from UV damage. The other thing we learned from the purveyor of Cloud Juice out in Fredricksburg we learned about the importance of collection and holding tanks being separate, and taking the clearest water from the collection tank to keep the holding tank even cleaner.
I have found with a leaf screen, and first flush diverter, I still get a sediment in my main collecting tank. With mild winters now in Ohio, we have collected water year round for the last few years with the house running only on rainwater. We are now in a "months long drought" with no rain in sight, so will have to haul water now for the first time.
We had ours installed professionally in PR. We have 2 (800) gallons and added water filters I also collect rain water in rain barells for our plants. We keep ours covered when not need to collect water.
Your first flush system needs an adjustment. Incoming water should go into a wye instead of a tee. Have the wye placed lower than the tank input level, straight side down, so when the first flush leg gets full, the water must flow up hill from the wye to the tank. This forces "heavier than water" particles to settle down into the first flush leg while clean water goes to storage. This set up also catches bits that float, like leaf fragments and bug parts, as the surface of water in the pipe is maintained above the storage line. With a tee, as you have set up, anything coming off the roof after the first flush has filled is free to be swept straight into storage.
Great info. Didn't think about sealing every single point of entry. One suggestion. Stainless steel screen. More expensive but never degrades. And, on the pond, there is a special fish called "mosquitofish" that helps keep mosquitos knocked down.
One thing I love about your Channel is that you Talk about More than Solar, (I'm all solared out at the moment lol) and there is more to surviving then just Free Energy. I need to Up my Game and Enjoy Seeing your thoughts and Opinions about other things in Self Presevervation, I need to Up my Water Game and start growing my own food in the space that I have.
It's my contention that treatment using Diatomaceous Earth and UV-C sterilization as antimicrobial protection in a clean well maintained rainwater catchment, storage, and distribution system is sufficient for my needs; providing exceptional quality drinking water at a very low cost. Simple filters like fine mesh screen and cotton fabric are perfectly acceptable to clarify and UV sterilize. The activated carbon filtration at the final stage is ideal to control consistent clean taste and smell but I tend to replace it within 30 days to prevent bacterial multiplication. Anyway, I'm relieved of the RO system and filthy contaminated well water.....never have been more pleased than drinking rainwater. 😊
if you live in a hot desert like me, make sure you build your cisterns underground. Above ground the black/blue tanks work ok. The plus side is you can generate "hot" water by just putting a black tank on the top of your house with a shower's worth of water :D
Great job on this video. Concise and informative. I had a berkey for years until I tested the water. More ppm after the berkey than before filtering. I now use a zero pure because Science is not an opinion. Please test your water and don’t just buy a filter because someone said it was good but didn’t provide evidence. And if you still want a berkey I have one for sale cheap
I collect rainwater in Plastic garbage cans from Walfart.. The Cheap Ones.. I have 5. Enough to Bathe and for toilet water and for my dog to drink.. Drinking water I get from the 3 GOOD Neighbors who have wells. If I need to get drinking water from the Plastic garbage cans, I use the Filter that screws to the hose connection that is meant for R/V's and Campers.. Only $35 and just get a new one as Needed. Last a Long Time since I only go through 14 gallons every 10-14 days.. Depends on how much I cook.
Good one - very accurate info! We do 3 x 2500gal tanks from roof -> leaf-strainer (same as you showed) -> 300gal 1st flush -> tanks -> shallow well pump -> water worker -> 20micron -> 5micron -> Class A UV and works very well and seems perfectly safe and good tasting water! We collect / use ~18,000gal per year from 2,000sq ft of roof in Southern Oregon. This runs our home for 9 months (~2000gal/month) but May,Jul,Aug,Sep,Oct is low/no rain... but if we conserved a bit, we could go all year. We're entering year 6 of operation and it only takes yearly filter and 1-2yr UV bulb changes - pretty minimal effort. Oregon allows roof (and only roof) capture for individuals. In early years we used 400micron sock in 1st flush for sediment - but it was just a pain to clean and now we skip straight to the 20micron filter. The 20" filters last a whole year (20,000gal) with no trouble - so just change these out each year. Sediment does settle in bottom of the large 2500gal tanks and with intake 6-8" above the bottom we avoid it.
Didn't mean it as having a great system but rather wanted to contribute that rainharvest works *really well*, even if you live in a town like we do. Shallow well pumps, filters, water workers, and even UV are ordinary off-the-shelf plumbing components and the overall system is straightforward. Want to join you in trying to bring down the 'it's too complicated or unsafe or too much maintenance' factor and encourage those on the fence to give it a try :)
Roof material leeching? It's common to have a 1st flush sub-system. The idea is that after a month or 2 or 3 (or longer) dry-spell, dust and other contaminants (bird poop maybe) or shingle chemicals? (not heard of this) or forest fire soot or x,y,z can collect on the roof. When the rainy season begins you start with an empty 1st flush tube or tank that collects the 1st amount of water with the higher concentration of stuff and then the roof is clean and you let the follow on water go into the main tanks. In my case, I have a 300gal 1st flush (for 2000sq foot roof) but that's way overkill - it was just the cheap (small'ish) tank I had on hand. To get back to you're question - I don't think a roof leeches 'stuff' day by day so a washing off the roof makes the remaining water pretty darn clean, certainly safe to filter/UV for consumption. You can use a garden hose to regularly wash off you're roof as well -> 1st flush or direct to overflow. Some use Berkey's downstream for additional cleansing. *I'm no expert, not urging anyone to do anything they aren't comfortable with but absolutely sharing that we've had a great experience. One official reference if it helps - I'm in Oregon and it's encouraged by state publications and our city permits/inspects rainharvest as OK for consumption - which we did. They wanted Class A UV (stronger) instead of Class B UV for example but even though a little more expensive UV but no big deal in the scheme of things.
Good video with practical advice throughout. One suggestion I’d like to add as well is keeping your hdpe tanks covered and out of the sun. Out in the sun your life expectancy is about 15 years, a bit more in partial shade. But get it covered in some masonry or other means and life expectancy goes to 100 years+. Being out in the TX sun is pretty brutal. Best book, bar none on “Water Storage” goes by that very title by Art Ludwig. Amazon carries it. That’s where I learned about the hdpe tanks, and just a wealth of info throughout.
You should match the size of your collection surface to the size of your storage. Otherwise your storage will either remain mostly empty or will regularly overflow. Your water use, size of the collection surface, annual rainfall and size of storage determine the optimal system. Good video that addresses important points re rainwater harvesting.
Thank you - this information is very useful! I live in Costa Rica and am looking to build a system to store water for the dry season. Your video is filled with great points!
Recently bought a couple of spin down filters after those I have 1 1/2 inch big blue filters first one has a charcoal filter the second on houses ceramic candles these are the same filter as in the Berkey but they are shaped a bit differently Eventually after the ceramics I will put in a uv light The thing to remember about a uv is that the wather has to be clear enough that no water is being shaded by even the smallest sediment or the light might not actually hit whatever is left in the water. The big blue is a 10 inch diameter filter housing.. so they are big. They are made by Doulton filter
I live in the boonies in Queensland Australia used plastic tanks for years 2 x 25,000 litre and a garden tank of 8,000 litres. Been through droughts from hell and storms from the same place. I do agree that you must be mosquito proof we do get Dengue and Ross river fever. We 3 dams for water for the stock and irrigation. Thankfully we have a small fish that naturally occurs that eats mosquito larve. Havent seen a mossie for years around here. As for micro plastics etc, these tanks are used by 1000s of people. Yet to here of any snags
In my part of Oregon we have rain for six months and no rain for six months. If your rain water collection is the primary water system or is a real backup system it requires alot of storage. Tanks as you can afford them is the obvious way to go. How do you protect your tanks and collector pipes in the winter.
Fortunately we don't really have to protect the pipes too much here in the winter. The pump and pipes connecting to it will be enclosed and insulated for this winter since that is new.
Yes, having more snow than rain prohibits so many good ideas concerning water. I'm putting in a graywater drain for my shower and am wondering if I'll need heat tape on it or just take lots of showers
Thanks for the capacity comparison for your use case. We are also in East TX and I have been trying to figure out what we will need once onsite full time. I was going to plan on 6000 potable and I already have 2000 between garden (unfiltered) water and trailer potable (just meaning I have it filtered/purified when it comes out). When we are full time, it will only be 2 adults, dogs and whatever animals we get. Helps to know that your family is under suppled at 5k. Thinking I may need upward of 10k to be safe for an extended dry summer. I am glad the shoulder seasons are far less of an issue as we do get a fair amount of rain, Spring in particular.
Some good points there. Perhaps you could have expanded on the subject of area required to catch x amount of water as this is just as important as container size. Also it might be a good idea if people can work out their consumption as well to size their containers. If possible try to bury containers.
I think it's worth pointing out that NH has concentrated pockets that are super rainy, but in terms of state-wide averages of rain, it doesn't even beat out neighboring MA (of which is rainier than the average state but nothing crazy).
Good tips. Understanding your circumstances is key to the capacity question. Roof square footage, rainfall amounts, when you need irrigation vs when the drought period is, house hold consumption rates. For me the key criteria was not irrigation but household use during the drought period for 'emergency' needs. With a very large roof area for collection the spring time gardening is not an issue given the more frequent rain fall. Poor folks in AZ. That's a hard one.
any tips or pointers for climates that are really cold in the winter? Perhaps I will have to get burry-able tanks and burry them and add heat tape to the roof, gutters, and corresponding exposed pipes?
Since we have filtration after the collection (including the berkey in the house), I am not really worried about it. Metal roofs are the best for low contamination however.
With arial sprayed pesticides and other contaminates in the air, just don't be so sure the water is so good, not like great Granma's day. Filter and treat it.
I use those clear totes the first one is green the other is perfect. I filter all the water I drink from these totes regardless of the green n the lining of the tank. The water is crystal clear with the odd Wrigley too. Filtration is key.
No e explanation! I live in an rv park, but the owner is a homesteader with a similar system for his home. I am talking with him about a small set up for my spot. Fingers crossed he ok’s the idea & design.
If I may, I suggest the "Essential Rainwater Harvesting" course by Verge Permaculture. A whole lot more detailed, research based info from two mechanical engineers and an enginner/professor from Australia. There are several myths busted, and common sense but rarely talked about details, such as filtering as much as is needed, for the intended use, such as not doing high level or ultra filtration just to water a garden. They have a very extensive and detailed spreadsheet tool for estimating catchment area and storage based on 30 years of hourly rainfall data for - where you live -, and how to find that data to input.
It's just a random idea, and I'm not sure if it's worth the power consumption or not. What about installing a circulatory pump with a filter on the storage tanks, kind of like on a cheap above ground pool to help pre-filter fine sediment and if any bugs do get in. I would assume you'd only have to run the pumps a couple of hours a day.
Just want to point out that *parts* of Oregon get lots of rain. Most of Oregon does not get much rain, and *all* of Oregon gets *no* rain at all for months in the summer. Thus, for truly effective rain collection, you need enough water stored to span that dry spell.
Every place is different. Everyone is encouraged to do their own research as to the rainfall in their area. As a whole, Oregon gets more rainfall than the majority of the rest of the country sans New Hampshire and South Florida.
@@CountryLivingExperience yes, and I don't mean to imply otherwise. You said that in Oregon, because of our heavy rainfall, you don't need a lot of storage. I'm only suggesting that in fact it's the opposite. One needs a lot of storage to get through the dry period.
Maybe even before number one, one needs to check their bylaws. I was really taken aback a few years ago to discover some places do not allow you to collect rainwater (because it will lead to shortages in areas downstream).
Ignore laws that interfere with basic survival....put the tanks in a solid, locked shed, keep your mouth shut, put up a gate and never give consent to public officials to inspect or search your property.
In the past few years Colorado has made rainwater legal to collect, so you might want to check your local laws. I’m in the mountains and on a fantastic well with unmetered use and it’s legal for me to water outside. I still want to catch rain off the roof so thanks for the ideas!
Interesting system... Inefficient though! Collection, Filtration, Storage - you need focus. Collection is simple right - Not so much. When you collect with just simple slopes you are also collecting all the debris and soils of animal life, pollution, feces from whatever critters get on your slope system. Slow the collection of water down, turbulence just moves tons of debris with the water. Next have a rough filter, Scotch brite is a remarkable collector of debris that is easy to clean. Scotch Brite's come in many sizes. On your slope have a screen, under that have the scotch brite's, under that have a wash board system. Don't think of this system as necessarily vertical - angled is better but the basic angle should be no more than 45 deg. With any luck the world where you life has nothing else to throw at your collection. The screen diverts the large debris, the Scotch Brite's collect bits of leaves, bird feces, bugs etc. And then the washboard - you want it to divert the water over it yet have the washboard at a slight angle at right angle to the basic slope. (that angle removes the sand and grit that clogs everything if given a chance. At this point you have close to 95% of the debris filtered out. Next comes the true filtration, I would suggest a 3 stage in diminishing diameters. Get the best system you can afford here. Direct the water into the clean storage tanks. Keep the entirety of the system critter free - even mosquitos and smaller. Use micro screens where possible ( they are made of Stainless Steel and come in unbelievably fine mesh. The entrance to the storage must be clean, sealed and somewhat critter proof. If you can keep your over flo away from the ceiling of the storage1-2 inches is plenty.Condensation combined with any life form can create a hazard you do not expect. @ 2 inches from the bottom of the storage have a connection tree (large hose connection for irrigation, regular hose connection, and a small diameter connection attached to a clear poly tube that you keep attached to the storage vertically. That is your storage capacity meter.
remember that gravity can really be your friend.. With this in mind try to mount your tanks as high above your outlets as possible.. This is why cities build water towers or mount tanks as high as they are able to. This also means build your roof at a high point on your property. You will get about 40 pounds of pressure if you can mount your tanks up say 100 ft above you highest outlet.
I have small pressure pumps in the basement. I installed my own. Water comes into my basement at 40 lbs psi from gravity. When it goes through the pump, an air bladder squashes the water down under pressure and releases it to the house at 40-60 lbs. Psi. It has plenty volume. You dont want it over 60 or it may blow the lines apart, causing leaks where you glued line together.
The hydrostatic head pressure of water is 0.433 psi/foot of head. a 100 foot hydrostatic head would be needed to supply water at 40 psi after friction reduction in the pipes.
How do you manage freezing in the tanks? Northeast here and I can’t do a tank if that size but a 55 gallon I think will freeze. What is commonly done? Thanks. Good video
You're welcome. Luckily I live in TX and don't have to deal with that much. All of the supply lines are underground so they are freeze protected. The tanks are black and absorb a lot of heat from the sun. The amount of water in there should not freeze completely in most areas.
Our system is just like your, but we have 2 5K tanks, same set up as you. We use a German Wize VOrtex filter and then UV and standard cannister filters 5micron and 2 micron I think. We test our water once a year, it's always 99% pure and bacteria free. We've never come close to running out of water.. Arkansas has plenty of rain.
Just ordered 2 chemguard black 500 gallon tanks. Gonna build a water tower from 4" sch 40 pipe and put one up high for pressure and the otter down low to catch rainwater and water from the creek nearby. Gonna figure the rest as i go
@@CountryLivingExperience I'm placing my 1500-gallon tank up on a 6ft concrete pad that gives me a total lift of 15ft above the house slab. I have a 40ft pipe run sized at 2" that tapers to the 3/4" copper at the house valve and then drop to 1/2" copper to the fixtures. I'm hoping to at least have "some" pressure at the sink to wash dishes during a long power outage here in hurricane Fl. But I also have 4,000lbs of NiFe battery bank (48volts) and 30 solar panels. With your pressure being what it is, I estimate mine to be a couple psi more, but I can't find a "table" that will give me a number, and you're the first guy I've seen who used gravity to feed your system.
@@doghouse416 There are not really any tables out there. There is just general information and formulas for calculating pressures. I just have basic general knowledge about it. Mine is not gravity fed though. I have an above ground jet pump with a pressure tank. I did a video on the connections for that. Glad you have some good preps in the works.
The problem with living in Oregon (we do) is that for about 3 months in the summer it basically does NOT rain at all, and can get quite hot and sunny (and hotter earlier and longer with every year that passes it seems these days...). So, if you're relying on rain water catchment as your sole source of water here, you need to size your storage capacity to take that into account. Of course you could always (maybe) contract a water truck to come and fill up your tank if you run out, but I personally wouldn't be comfortable with having to rely on that as things progress. The other thing is that summer is when we're growing most of our food for the year, so you've got to factor in water for your garden and any critters if you have any...and THAT is likely going to be the biggest problem honestly. (We're still building our home.) One thing is for sure. Your water system and methods for your food production here must be set up to optimize every drop if you're relying on rainwater collection! Drip irrigation under a layer of mulch & watering the cooler night time hours to decrease evaporation and get every drop possible down to the roots of your plants; shade cloth over crops where possible (especially those that like cooler temps and less harsh sunlight); drought hardy plant selections; getting all your starts going as early as possible while it's STILL raining so they're strong and hardy when transplanted into the garden; LOTS of organic matter in your soils and extensive use of mulch; grey water reuse on trees and where appropriate on other crops (which means totally biodegradable soaps only going down one's drain); waterless, composting toilet systems so you aren't wasting any water flushing all your fertility away where you can't get to it to use it; and just being mindful of using water very conservatively during the dry season. As it happens, we're fortunate to also have a year round (so far) spring higher up on our land, but we have SUCH restrictive water use laws in this state that we're not allowed to use that at this point. However, if we tap it I think it may qualify as a "shallow well," but we shall see. It may be that we'll "divert" the flow a bit in summer to at least water food crops and critters, but technically that's not allowed here since we don't have a water right. We're seriously considering digging water retention ponds around the place, but that I think that too has a lot of red tape and permits involved...unless we just 'don't know any better' and do so quietly under the radar. I do think that such ponds would be allowed for fire prevention/mitigation purposes by the water master, but not necessarily for any other uses, again we'll see. Lastly, we've heard mutterings of things in the works to outlaw or limit rain water harvesting off one's roof here...which I find to be incredibly shocking and wrong. SO, we've been told by those more in the know than we to hurry up and get our systems all in and hooked up so they'll be grandfathered in before such things go into effect! Last resort for us will be to dig a well, but we're hoping to avoid it. Many of our neighbors say that they're noticing their wells are producing less each year or even going dry and having to dig them deeper. One person in our area drilled 2 or maybe 3 dry holes before hitting water! If you ask me it's STUPID to limit rainwater harvesting when it rains here for 8 months straight and require people drill wells instead to drain our watershed out. Far better IMHO to allow people to use the water that hits their roofs in abundance for most of the year to tide them through the summer. Regulations...you can't live with 'em and you can't live without 'em. Grrrrr...
Might try this experiment: buy a gallon of distilled water in a clear container, and/or translucent, and leave in a place where there's plenty of sunlight, to see if algae grows in a week/months/year. I've been carrying one in my truck for over a year, and it's as clear as the day I bought it. Poorly filtered water, not so lucky.
Something else you can mention is to paint your tanks and all exposed plastic infrastructure. This will increase the life of your investment by protecting the plastic from the suns damaging UV rays.
Hey Everyone Remember to check yr info these ch give out. 1) First Flush systems 2) Good if Desired correctly 3) the length of your Gutters - being the Collection area 4) All of these Gutters would just love a good clean out first before all debris goes into your main tank 5) Look at the Size of the First Flush Pipework collection Eg maybe a Gallon or 2 Do you think this little amount will Flush out most of the dirt out of your Gutters - No way So they are a good idea with little actual results. 6) you would need a 2nd or 3rd big tank to collect 10 or 20 Gallons as being your First filter tank for non drinking water.
Would you recommend two black IBC totes or a vertical water storage tank like you have? What supplier would you recommend purchasing your storage system from? Also, do you run your water directly from your water catchment system to your pressure tank in your well house? Lastly, do you use chlorine tabs at all before drinking it or do you pass everything through your Berkey water filter? Thank you for your time.
my family has lived with tank water for35 years only problem was a broken tap and let all the water go we have 75000 litres storage and 1micron filters with carbon water better than town
Very helpful. My question, which many people don't seem to address is about droppings on the roof? Birds, Squirrels, etc and going to leave feces / urine on the roof no matter how hard people try to keep it clean. How is all of that addressed properly to the highest degree of safety?
The multiple filters I pointed out collect a vast majority of the sediment from those things you mention. At then end of the system we have a Berkey filter to purify for drinking. Some people use a small amount of bleach in the tank or a UV light treatment system.
Another mechanism to prevent mosquitos is to add a cup of Kerosene to the tank. This forms a barrier on top on the water, that prevents the Mossie Larva from breathing. You just need to replenish the kero every time your tank overflows. NOTE: Kero and Water DO NOT MIX so contamination is not a worry.
I wonder how much roofing material choice affects the water quality.. It seems that asphalt shingles would release som toxic/damaging things as they get heat cycled and that those things would pass through any screens.. It seems like metal roofing would be a better choice if you had it to make.
Great video, thanks! I’m wondering how long you can safely store the water with this set up (dark tanks, screens and secure openings, Dunkits)? Do you have to do anything else or add anything else for it to last 6 months or more? maybe up to 8 months? Thinking of subtropical regions with an actual monsoon season of 4 to 5 months with the rest of the year dry.
You're welcome. I honestly don't know what the longevity of the water would be. I have never researched that. Theoretically, you can filter any water not matter how old it is.
Sorry, yes. Here they are: Parts Used In This Video: Norwesco 2500 gallon Rainwater Collection Tank: www.homedepot.com/p/Norwesco-2500-Gal-Black-Vertical-Water-Tank-40631/206479621 Blue Mountain Co. Rainwater Harvest Parts: Leaf Eater: amzn.to/3F49NxR First Flush:amzn.to/3zRM28d Over Flow: amzn.to/2ZMHWC8 Tank Level Guage: amzn.to/3CWWbmb 3" PVC Pipe and elbows as needed. 1.5" PVC Pipe, 1.5" male threaded to female slip, 90 degree elbow, 1.5" DWV (Dish Washer) Trap Adapter Vent
@@CountryLivingExperience Lowe’s has a 2500 gal tank (looks nearly identical) for $1800, which is really good since we generally see prices around $1 per gallon.
Back in the 80's, I had a coworker who had a few acres of land on the outskirts of town in southern New Mexico. On it, he had a pecan orchard. The orchard had it's own well. What was interesting was that he had installed a water tower for the orchard. The orchard well was powered by an old fashioned wind mill with an electric pump as backup. The windmill was strong enough to pump the water from the ground and to the tank (about 20 feet high). When I asked him why the 'antique', he said electricity costs money, the wind is free. Remember, back then, solar cells were expensive and not as good as today's.
It might be an option for those who have land where the wind is fairly steady.
Very cool. I wish I lived in a windy area. I think a windmill would be a great addition for something like that.
Actually, almost all of Oregon has a very long drought almost all summer long. Same for western Washington, that's why they have evergreen trees not so much deciduous trees. The size of cistern for this area is absolutely enormous if you are thinking of summer irrigation.
@@westerncowhand7814 That would depend upon the system used for irrigation. There, he used a buried drip system. Essentially, like a surface drip system, but buried about 3-4 inches under the surface. Because it is buried it doesn't evaporate as quickly as surface drip or sprinklers in the desert heat and can soak down to the roots. Using less water for equal results.
The tank was mostly to provide pressure to get the water through the network of plumbing.
The point being that if you can find a way to use water efficiently in a desert, it would probably work nearly anywhere else even better. Learn and adapt, repeat. That is what truly separates us from the other animals.
In the backwards world we live in today, windmills are crazy expensive. I priced them 2 years ago. It made solar seem cheap, which it is now.
@@FelonyVideos Windmills, not wind turbines, are very simple machines that could be made from almost anything. I've seen one made from an old bicycle wheel with cardboard taped to the spokes, and a piece of rebar for a shaft, which had a fin on the end to keep it pointed into the wind. It was used to drive a couple of bicycle generators, which charged a motorcycle battery. This was hooked up to some LED lights (Chrismas lights, I think).
It was a demonstration of survival techniques in a post apocalyptic world (after a many fermentation-based beverages kind of discussion). In other words, nerds gone wild! Needless to say, not a lot of money spent.
Perhaps, it may inspire you to experiment yourself.
I lived for years only on rainwater with a 5000 gallon tank. Sounds like a lot, but moving from town to country, we consumed far more water than we realised. At one point when we had to buy in water by tanker, we stirred up sludge at the bottom of that tank.
My biggest learning curve was understanding how much water we used, and also that eventually your body adapts to the taste and bugs in the water ( that included dead birds and a possum in the bottom of that tank sludge). Dont stir it up, leave it be - covering water is important, but expect its going to happen no matter how careful you are
I grew up on a farm that had a single 5000 gallon cement tank and that served a family of four for 20 years.
The big secret that people forget is that you DON'T need huge water storage capacity.
What you need is the biggest catchment area you can get.
On the Farm, we had the house, 90 foot x 90 foot square and also the shed which was 20 foot x 36 foot.
What that means is that even a light shower of rain would usually top off tank.
Just redid my system and added a LeafEater at the down spout looks just like yours. I also installed a bulkhead fitting at the connection at the top of the tank so that connection is totally secure. You provided a lot of good info, thanks for posting the video.
Awesome! You’re welcome
We've been on 100% rainwater for several years now, set-up videos on our channel. We use it for everything in our homestead. 5000 gal is usually enough unless we have a really dry season.
Just subscribed to your channel. I look forward to checking it out
@@keithhughes8010 Thanks. There is a playlist for the water system you should check out.
@@Off-Grid what is your channel?
@@GretchenLee-gu5wn The 5th Journey Off-Grid
Click on their picture
We recently moved to our "deep rural" farm with a 60' x 45' metal roof barn. Rainwater collection is our obvious choice. Wells here produce massively hard water unless you sink a deep well for $17k. Rain water is soft, clean, and tastes great. Our system will include livestock water but won't cost near that of sinking a deep well. Great video!
Thank you
We keeps our under cement shed and blue roof covered. We also have solar water heater and solar water distiller on our cement roof along with wrought iron cage we built on the cement roof to protect from hurricanes. Along with our solar panels for our house and air conditioning. We live in 3.5 acre home on the island. We are retired and we started building our cement house 36 years ago when the economy was good paid cash. I’m a retired nurse, and we didn’t want to live in the states in a cheap wood house. I been married 36 years and we worked hard on our goals. My husband is a workaholic and goal oriented. I learn to do everything in TH-cam.
Thanks for the video. We had 10,650 gallons of outside storage and another 3K under the crawlspace for emergencies (think February 2021) and still would watch the collection tank overflow in our NW of Houston household collection system. A couple ideas you may not have considered-we had our tanks in the shaded woods so we painted the tanks forest green but we also painted our above ground PVC piping which made it blend in AND protected it from UV damage. The other thing we learned from the purveyor of Cloud Juice out in Fredricksburg we learned about the importance of collection and holding tanks being separate, and taking the clearest water from the collection tank to keep the holding tank even cleaner.
Thank you. I appreciate your thoughts re: painting the pvc.
@@GlenHazmatTrahan : Wise what you are doing, planning for a disaster that the government will know why be able to help you when it happens
I have found with a leaf screen, and first flush diverter, I still get a sediment in my main collecting tank. With mild winters now in Ohio, we have collected water year round for the last few years with the house running only on rainwater. We are now in a "months long drought" with no rain in sight, so will have to haul water now for the first time.
We had ours installed professionally in PR. We have 2 (800) gallons and added water filters I also collect rain water in rain barells for our plants. We keep ours covered when not need to collect water.
Your first flush system needs an adjustment.
Incoming water should go into a wye instead of a tee.
Have the wye placed lower than the tank input level, straight side down, so when the first flush leg gets full, the water must flow up hill from the wye to the tank. This forces "heavier than water" particles to settle down into the first flush leg while clean water goes to storage. This set up also catches bits that float, like leaf fragments and bug parts, as the surface of water in the pipe is maintained above the storage line.
With a tee, as you have set up, anything coming off the roof after the first flush has filled is free to be swept straight into storage.
Great info. Didn't think about sealing every single point of entry. One suggestion. Stainless steel screen. More expensive but never degrades. And, on the pond, there is a special fish called "mosquitofish" that helps keep mosquitos knocked down.
Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the heads up on the stainless steel screen.
@@CountryLivingExperience Yes sir. Not sure if it's ok to give a recommended vendor for that. Made in the US. Family biz for decades. One I have used.
@@steve37341 Sure. I always like buying USA made items.
@@CountryLivingExperience Darby Wire Mesh
One thing I love about your Channel is that you Talk about More than Solar, (I'm all solared out at the moment lol) and there is more to surviving then just Free Energy. I need to Up my Game and Enjoy Seeing your thoughts and Opinions about other things in Self Presevervation, I need to Up my Water Game and start growing my own food in the space that I have.
I appreciate that. Keep moving forward with all the other aspects of self sufficiency.....you can do it!
What the hell else are you supposed to use metal the water was just boil away
@@jamescox2822 huh???? lol
You have saved me countless hours of wasted time and frustration. Thank U !
You're welcome
we live in Leishmaniasis affected area, so i recommend putting copper pennies or rods into the deposits
It's my contention that treatment using Diatomaceous Earth and UV-C sterilization as antimicrobial protection in a clean well maintained rainwater catchment, storage, and distribution system is sufficient for my needs; providing exceptional quality drinking water at a very low cost. Simple filters like fine mesh screen and cotton fabric are perfectly acceptable to clarify and UV sterilize. The activated carbon filtration at the final stage is ideal to control consistent clean taste and smell but I tend to replace it within 30 days to prevent bacterial multiplication. Anyway, I'm relieved of the RO system and filthy contaminated well water.....never have been more pleased than drinking rainwater. 😊
if you live in a hot desert like me, make sure you build your cisterns underground. Above ground the black/blue tanks work ok. The plus side is you can generate "hot" water by just putting a black tank on the top of your house with a shower's worth of water :D
Great job on this video. Concise and informative. I had a berkey for years until I tested the water. More ppm after the berkey than before filtering. I now use a zero pure because Science is not an opinion. Please test your water and don’t just buy a filter because someone said it was good but didn’t provide evidence. And if you still want a berkey I have one for sale cheap
I collect rainwater in Plastic garbage cans from Walfart.. The Cheap Ones.. I have 5. Enough to Bathe and for toilet water and for my dog to drink.. Drinking water I get from the 3 GOOD Neighbors who have wells.
If I need to get drinking water from the Plastic garbage cans, I use the Filter that screws to the hose connection that is meant for R/V's and Campers.. Only $35 and just get a new one as Needed. Last a Long Time since I only go through 14 gallons every 10-14 days.. Depends on how much I cook.
Good one - very accurate info! We do 3 x 2500gal tanks from roof -> leaf-strainer (same as you showed) -> 300gal 1st flush -> tanks -> shallow well pump -> water worker -> 20micron -> 5micron -> Class A UV and works very well and seems perfectly safe and good tasting water! We collect / use ~18,000gal per year from 2,000sq ft of roof in Southern Oregon. This runs our home for 9 months (~2000gal/month) but May,Jul,Aug,Sep,Oct is low/no rain... but if we conserved a bit, we could go all year. We're entering year 6 of operation and it only takes yearly filter and 1-2yr UV bulb changes - pretty minimal effort. Oregon allows roof (and only roof) capture for individuals. In early years we used 400micron sock in 1st flush for sediment - but it was just a pain to clean and now we skip straight to the 20micron filter. The 20" filters last a whole year (20,000gal) with no trouble - so just change these out each year. Sediment does settle in bottom of the large 2500gal tanks and with intake 6-8" above the bottom we avoid it.
Thanks.
Your system sounds awesome!
Didn't mean it as having a great system but rather wanted to contribute that rainharvest works *really well*, even if you live in a town like we do. Shallow well pumps, filters, water workers, and even UV are ordinary off-the-shelf plumbing components and the overall system is straightforward. Want to join you in trying to bring down the 'it's too complicated or unsafe or too much maintenance' factor and encourage those on the fence to give it a try :)
when collecting water from the roof, is there concern about any toxic chemicals leaking from the roof material?
Roof material leeching? It's common to have a 1st flush sub-system. The idea is that after a month or 2 or 3 (or longer) dry-spell, dust and other contaminants (bird poop maybe) or shingle chemicals? (not heard of this) or forest fire soot or x,y,z can collect on the roof. When the rainy season begins you start with an empty 1st flush tube or tank that collects the 1st amount of water with the higher concentration of stuff and then the roof is clean and you let the follow on water go into the main tanks. In my case, I have a 300gal 1st flush (for 2000sq foot roof) but that's way overkill - it was just the cheap (small'ish) tank I had on hand. To get back to you're question - I don't think a roof leeches 'stuff' day by day so a washing off the roof makes the remaining water pretty darn clean, certainly safe to filter/UV for consumption. You can use a garden hose to regularly wash off you're roof as well -> 1st flush or direct to overflow. Some use Berkey's downstream for additional cleansing. *I'm no expert, not urging anyone to do anything they aren't comfortable with but absolutely sharing that we've had a great experience. One official reference if it helps - I'm in Oregon and it's encouraged by state publications and our city permits/inspects rainharvest as OK for consumption - which we did. They wanted Class A UV (stronger) instead of Class B UV for example but even though a little more expensive UV but no big deal in the scheme of things.
Good video with practical advice throughout. One suggestion I’d like to add as well is keeping your hdpe tanks covered and out of the sun. Out in the sun your life expectancy is about 15 years, a bit more in partial shade. But get it covered in some masonry or other means and life expectancy goes to 100 years+. Being out in the TX sun is pretty brutal. Best book, bar none on “Water Storage” goes by that very title by Art Ludwig. Amazon carries it. That’s where I learned about the hdpe tanks, and just a wealth of info throughout.
Thank you. Ours are mostly shaded.
Thanks for the book suggestion.
You should match the size of your collection surface to the size of your storage. Otherwise your storage will either remain mostly empty or will regularly overflow. Your water use, size of the collection surface, annual rainfall and size of storage determine the optimal system. Good video that addresses important points re rainwater harvesting.
Not only can a well become contaminated but they can also go dry
@@JohnFinzel ground water is not all equal. Hard water is common, but in my volcanic area, anything a lab can measure is in that nasty brine.
Thank you - this information is very useful! I live in Costa Rica and am looking to build a system to store water for the dry season. Your video is filled with great points!
Glad it was helpful
Recently bought a couple of spin down filters after those I have 1 1/2 inch big blue filters first one has a charcoal filter the second on houses ceramic candles these are the same filter as in the Berkey but they are shaped a bit differently Eventually after the ceramics I will put in a uv light The thing to remember about a uv is that the wather has to be clear enough that no water is being shaded by even the smallest sediment or the light might not actually hit whatever is left in the water. The big blue is a 10 inch diameter filter housing.. so they are big. They are made by Doulton filter
I live in the boonies in Queensland Australia used plastic tanks for years 2 x 25,000 litre and a garden tank of 8,000 litres. Been through droughts from hell and storms from the same place. I do agree that you must be mosquito proof we do get Dengue and Ross river fever. We 3 dams for water for the stock and irrigation. Thankfully we have a small fish that naturally occurs that eats mosquito larve. Havent seen a mossie for years around here. As for micro plastics etc, these tanks are used by 1000s of people. Yet to here of any snags
In my part of Oregon we have rain for six months and no rain for six months. If your rain water collection is the primary water system or is a real backup system it requires alot of storage.
Tanks as you can afford them is the obvious way to go. How do you protect your tanks and collector pipes in the winter.
Fortunately we don't really have to protect the pipes too much here in the winter. The pump and pipes connecting to it will be enclosed and insulated for this winter since that is new.
@@CountryLivingExperience
Thank you.
Yes, having more snow than rain prohibits so many good ideas concerning water. I'm putting in a graywater drain for my shower and am wondering if I'll need heat tape on it or just take lots of showers
Thanks for the capacity comparison for your use case. We are also in East TX and I have been trying to figure out what we will need once onsite full time. I was going to plan on 6000 potable and I already have 2000 between garden (unfiltered) water and trailer potable (just meaning I have it filtered/purified when it comes out). When we are full time, it will only be 2 adults, dogs and whatever animals we get. Helps to know that your family is under suppled at 5k. Thinking I may need upward of 10k to be safe for an extended dry summer. I am glad the shoulder seasons are far less of an issue as we do get a fair amount of rain, Spring in particular.
You're welcome. Glad it was helpful.
I think you will be good to go with 10k gallons. That is what I am building up to as well.
Some good points there. Perhaps you could have expanded on the subject of area required to catch x amount of water as this is just as important as container size. Also it might be a good idea if people can work out their consumption as well to size their containers. If possible try to bury containers.
Always make it where you can add to it
I think it's worth pointing out that NH has concentrated pockets that are super rainy, but in terms of state-wide averages of rain, it doesn't even beat out neighboring MA (of which is rainier than the average state but nothing crazy).
Also check with your community as some locations are illegal. Thumbs up 👍
Like WA state, a communist ran state
Do it and don't get caught.
@@craigf3277 We have a nosey neighbor who (we wish were dead) that squeals on everyone. Yet he grows weed in his basement
Definitely check to make sure it’s legal first. THEN design/disguise your system appropriately.
@@Doc1855 sounds to me like you can negotiate an accord
Good tips. Understanding your circumstances is key to the capacity question. Roof square footage, rainfall amounts, when you need irrigation vs when the drought period is, house hold consumption rates. For me the key criteria was not irrigation but household use during the drought period for 'emergency' needs. With a very large roof area for collection the spring time gardening is not an issue given the more frequent rain fall. Poor folks in AZ. That's a hard one.
Thanks.
any tips or pointers for climates that are really cold in the winter? Perhaps I will have to get burry-able tanks and burry them and add heat tape to the roof, gutters, and corresponding exposed pipes?
You have the right idea. Buried tanks and heat tape are your best options.
Good information and warnings about collecting. Water is heavy and homeostatic.
Tu. Can you talk about types of roofs and their contaminants? Right now from our asphalt roof we are using the rain water only for ornamental plants.
Since we have filtration after the collection (including the berkey in the house), I am not really worried about it. Metal roofs are the best for low contamination however.
i still do this to day i dont drink it but i do use in to fill my pool of flush my camp toylits grate video
Thanks for a well presented and balanced presentation. That was interesting. Texas has a similar climate to my area of Australia.
You’re welcome
With arial sprayed pesticides and other contaminates in the air, just don't be so sure the water is so good, not like great Granma's day. Filter and treat it.
Thank you for sharing. Do you have a step by step build video?
You're welcome. At the end of the video, I linked the entire playlist of the build videos.
I use those clear totes the first one is green the other is perfect. I filter all the water I drink from these totes regardless of the green n the lining of the tank. The water is crystal clear with the odd Wrigley too. Filtration is key.
Filtration is important. Watch out for micro-organisms.
some IBC totes are from hardwood mulch dye. it's water soluble and stains the tank darker. that's what I'm planning on using
Wow thanks for mentioning PHILIPPINES. Im a Filipino. Thanks a lot nee subscriber❤
Salamat!
No e explanation! I live in an rv park, but the owner is a homesteader with a similar system for his home. I am talking with him about a small set up for my spot. Fingers crossed he ok’s the idea & design.
If I may, I suggest the "Essential Rainwater Harvesting" course by Verge Permaculture. A whole lot more detailed, research based info from two mechanical engineers and an enginner/professor from Australia. There are several myths busted, and common sense but rarely talked about details, such as filtering as much as is needed, for the intended use, such as not doing high level or ultra filtration just to water a garden. They have a very extensive and detailed spreadsheet tool for estimating catchment area and storage based on 30 years of hourly rainfall data for - where you live -, and how to find that data to input.
It's just a random idea, and I'm not sure if it's worth the power consumption or not. What about installing a circulatory pump with a filter on the storage tanks, kind of like on a cheap above ground pool to help pre-filter fine sediment and if any bugs do get in. I would assume you'd only have to run the pumps a couple of hours a day.
That would be a good added layer but not sure about the payoff since we have all the other filtration.
Just want to point out that *parts* of Oregon get lots of rain. Most of Oregon does not get much rain, and *all* of Oregon gets *no* rain at all for months in the summer.
Thus, for truly effective rain collection, you need enough water stored to span that dry spell.
Every place is different. Everyone is encouraged to do their own research as to the rainfall in their area. As a whole, Oregon gets more rainfall than the majority of the rest of the country sans New Hampshire and South Florida.
@@CountryLivingExperience yes, and I don't mean to imply otherwise. You said that in Oregon, because of our heavy rainfall, you don't need a lot of storage. I'm only suggesting that in fact it's the opposite. One needs a lot of storage to get through the dry period.
Good, we are still searching for a good idea for a cistern plus filter. Mindanao, Philippines, Animals and coffee and coconuts.
I was just there in September.
Do you do any UV light purification to the water?
We don’t
great video,what graidant should the roof be at ,and i know it varies on where you are but rough cost of those black 2.500ltr tanks?
Thanks. The slope of the roof does not matter.
The tanks were $2100 at Home Depot.
GREAT INFO THANKS FROM PAKISTAN!🙂
You're welcome
Maybe even before number one, one needs to check their bylaws. I was really taken aback a few years ago to discover some places do not allow you to collect rainwater (because it will lead to shortages in areas downstream).
Ignore laws that interfere with basic survival....put the tanks in a solid, locked shed, keep your mouth shut, put up a gate and never give consent to public officials to inspect or search your property.
how do you keep it from freezing
Great idea for your area definitely wouldn’t work where I’m at too cold😂
Yes. If it’s too cold you need underground tanks.
What do you do about contaminants in the water from the roof such as bird droppings and such?
With the multiple layers of filtration, I am not worried about it. The Berkey is the last line of defense for us for drinking water.
His first-flush diverter handles the bulk of that, and his Berkey handles the rest.
In the past few years Colorado has made rainwater legal to collect, so you might want to check your local laws. I’m in the mountains and on a fantastic well with unmetered use and it’s legal for me to water outside. I still want to catch rain off the roof so thanks for the ideas!
Interesting system... Inefficient though! Collection, Filtration, Storage - you need focus. Collection is simple right - Not so much. When you collect with just simple slopes you are also collecting all the debris and soils of animal life, pollution, feces from whatever critters get on your slope system. Slow the collection of water down, turbulence just moves tons of debris with the water. Next have a rough filter, Scotch brite is a remarkable collector of debris that is easy to clean. Scotch Brite's come in many sizes. On your slope have a screen, under that have the scotch brite's, under that have a wash board system. Don't think of this system as necessarily vertical - angled is better but the basic angle should be no more than 45 deg. With any luck the world where you life has nothing else to throw at your collection. The screen diverts the large debris, the Scotch Brite's collect bits of leaves, bird feces, bugs etc. And then the washboard - you want it to divert the water over it yet have the washboard at a slight angle at right angle to the basic slope. (that angle removes the sand and grit that clogs everything if given a chance. At this point you have close to 95% of the debris filtered out. Next comes the true filtration, I would suggest a 3 stage in diminishing diameters. Get the best system you can afford here. Direct the water into the clean storage tanks. Keep the entirety of the system critter free - even mosquitos and smaller. Use micro screens where possible ( they are made of Stainless Steel and come in unbelievably fine mesh. The entrance to the storage must be clean, sealed and somewhat critter proof. If you can keep your over flo away from the ceiling of the storage1-2 inches is plenty.Condensation combined with any life form can create a hazard you do not expect. @ 2 inches from the bottom of the storage have a connection tree (large hose connection for irrigation, regular hose connection, and a small diameter connection attached to a clear poly tube that you keep attached to the storage vertically. That is your storage capacity meter.
You have a lot of interesting ideals about rain water encatchment systems. Can you please show your system and how it processes from start to finish?
have you tried a grey water system from your shower and washing machine for irigation you will save so much water per year
We have. We did a whole video on that here......th-cam.com/video/N9ZGmE3W4po/w-d-xo.html
remember that gravity can really be your friend.. With this in mind try to mount your tanks as high above your outlets as possible.. This is why cities build water towers or mount tanks as high as they are able to. This also means build your roof at a high point on your property. You will get about 40 pounds of pressure if you can mount your tanks up say 100 ft above you highest outlet.
I have small pressure pumps in the basement. I installed my own. Water comes into my basement at 40 lbs psi from gravity. When it goes through the pump, an air bladder squashes the water down under pressure and releases it to the house at 40-60 lbs. Psi. It has plenty volume. You dont want it over 60 or it may blow the lines apart, causing leaks where you glued line together.
The hydrostatic head pressure of water is 0.433 psi/foot of head. a 100 foot hydrostatic head would be needed to supply water at 40 psi after friction reduction in the pipes.
I live in central valley in california. how many tanks would I need ?
Great content as usual. Many blessings
Harvesting rainwater is great if you can, but the best water for irrigation is from rivers or ponds, then rainwater.
How do I prevent stored water from freezing in the winter?
It can get realy cold where I live.
You will probably have to insulate and bury the tanks.
How do you manage freezing in the tanks? Northeast here and I can’t do a tank if that size but a 55 gallon I think will freeze. What is commonly done?
Thanks. Good video
You're welcome.
Luckily I live in TX and don't have to deal with that much. All of the supply lines are underground so they are freeze protected. The tanks are black and absorb a lot of heat from the sun. The amount of water in there should not freeze completely in most areas.
Our system is just like your, but we have 2 5K tanks, same set up as you. We use a German Wize VOrtex filter and then UV and standard cannister filters 5micron and 2 micron I think. We test our water once a year, it's always 99% pure and bacteria free. We've never come close to running out of water.. Arkansas has plenty of rain.
Awesome!
Believe that having a fountain or pump in your ponds will help control the mosquito issues because they can't lay eggs in moving water.
@@Sonny-ik9rv yes, that will help too.
Plus it adds air to the water for the fish if you have fish.
If light can pass through then algae can grow in there also.
Thank you ❤ 😊
Just ordered 2 chemguard black 500 gallon tanks. Gonna build a water tower from 4" sch 40 pipe and put one up high for pressure and the otter down low to catch rainwater and water from the creek nearby. Gonna figure the rest as i go
Awesome!
We use those dunks too
Around here it's a drought & wells are running dry
Same for us. Glad I have some rainwater backup.
I have a pool pump on mine 400 pound to filter the water from my 250 gallon tank to the tanks I use
What is your water pressure at full capacity. (Gravity, not electric pump)?
About 9-10 psi when full.
@@CountryLivingExperience enough to allow water to at least run out of a faucet?
@@doghouse416 Depends on the size of pipe and how long the pipe run is.
@@CountryLivingExperience I'm placing my 1500-gallon tank up on a 6ft concrete pad that gives me a total lift of 15ft above the house slab. I have a 40ft pipe run sized at 2" that tapers to the 3/4" copper at the house valve and then drop to 1/2" copper to the fixtures. I'm hoping to at least have "some" pressure at the sink to wash dishes during a long power outage here in hurricane Fl. But I also have 4,000lbs of NiFe battery bank (48volts) and 30 solar panels. With your pressure being what it is, I estimate mine to be a couple psi more, but I can't find a "table" that will give me a number, and you're the first guy I've seen who used gravity to feed your system.
@@doghouse416 There are not really any tables out there. There is just general information and formulas for calculating pressures. I just have basic general knowledge about it.
Mine is not gravity fed though. I have an above ground jet pump with a pressure tank. I did a video on the connections for that.
Glad you have some good preps in the works.
The problem with living in Oregon (we do) is that for about 3 months in the summer it basically does NOT rain at all, and can get quite hot and sunny (and hotter earlier and longer with every year that passes it seems these days...). So, if you're relying on rain water catchment as your sole source of water here, you need to size your storage capacity to take that into account. Of course you could always (maybe) contract a water truck to come and fill up your tank if you run out, but I personally wouldn't be comfortable with having to rely on that as things progress. The other thing is that summer is when we're growing most of our food for the year, so you've got to factor in water for your garden and any critters if you have any...and THAT is likely going to be the biggest problem honestly. (We're still building our home.)
One thing is for sure. Your water system and methods for your food production here must be set up to optimize every drop if you're relying on rainwater collection! Drip irrigation under a layer of mulch & watering the cooler night time hours to decrease evaporation and get every drop possible down to the roots of your plants; shade cloth over crops where possible (especially those that like cooler temps and less harsh sunlight); drought hardy plant selections; getting all your starts going as early as possible while it's STILL raining so they're strong and hardy when transplanted into the garden; LOTS of organic matter in your soils and extensive use of mulch; grey water reuse on trees and where appropriate on other crops (which means totally biodegradable soaps only going down one's drain); waterless, composting toilet systems so you aren't wasting any water flushing all your fertility away where you can't get to it to use it; and just being mindful of using water very conservatively during the dry season.
As it happens, we're fortunate to also have a year round (so far) spring higher up on our land, but we have SUCH restrictive water use laws in this state that we're not allowed to use that at this point. However, if we tap it I think it may qualify as a "shallow well," but we shall see. It may be that we'll "divert" the flow a bit in summer to at least water food crops and critters, but technically that's not allowed here since we don't have a water right. We're seriously considering digging water retention ponds around the place, but that I think that too has a lot of red tape and permits involved...unless we just 'don't know any better' and do so quietly under the radar. I do think that such ponds would be allowed for fire prevention/mitigation purposes by the water master, but not necessarily for any other uses, again we'll see.
Lastly, we've heard mutterings of things in the works to outlaw or limit rain water harvesting off one's roof here...which I find to be incredibly shocking and wrong. SO, we've been told by those more in the know than we to hurry up and get our systems all in and hooked up so they'll be grandfathered in before such things go into effect!
Last resort for us will be to dig a well, but we're hoping to avoid it. Many of our neighbors say that they're noticing their wells are producing less each year or even going dry and having to dig them deeper. One person in our area drilled 2 or maybe 3 dry holes before hitting water! If you ask me it's STUPID to limit rainwater harvesting when it rains here for 8 months straight and require people drill wells instead to drain our watershed out. Far better IMHO to allow people to use the water that hits their roofs in abundance for most of the year to tide them through the summer. Regulations...you can't live with 'em and you can't live without 'em. Grrrrr...
Might try this experiment: buy a gallon of distilled water in a clear container, and/or translucent, and leave in a place where there's plenty of sunlight, to see if algae grows in a week/months/year. I've been carrying one in my truck for over a year, and it's as clear as the day I bought it. Poorly filtered water, not so lucky.
What about freezing temperatures?
We haven't had an issue here in Texas. Pipes are underground.
How have the Berkey filters been performing on your rain harvested water?
Great. No issues.
Thanks for sharing 😊
You’re welcome
Thank you so much God Bless you.
2:54 what about Pahoa & other areas of Hawaii?
Suppose I should have said continental US.
Something else you can mention is to paint your tanks and all exposed plastic infrastructure. This will increase the life of your investment by protecting the plastic from the suns damaging UV rays.
How do you add electrolyte minerals to the rain water, for drinking?
Lemon juice.
Fantastic video. Starting now.
Thank you.
Hey Everyone
Remember to check yr info these ch give out.
1) First Flush systems
2) Good if Desired correctly
3) the length of your Gutters -
being the Collection area
4) All of these Gutters would just love a good clean out first before all debris goes into your main tank
5) Look at the Size of the First Flush Pipework collection
Eg
maybe a Gallon or 2
Do you think this little amount will
Flush out most of the dirt out of your Gutters - No way
So they are a good idea with little actual results.
6) you would need a 2nd or 3rd big tank to collect 10 or 20 Gallons as being your
First filter tank for
non drinking water.
Would you recommend two black IBC totes or a vertical water storage tank like you have? What supplier would you recommend purchasing your storage system from? Also, do you run your water directly from your water catchment system to your pressure tank in your well house? Lastly, do you use chlorine tabs at all before drinking it or do you pass everything through your Berkey water filter? Thank you for your time.
my family has lived with tank water for35 years only problem was a broken tap and let all the water go we have 75000 litres storage and 1micron filters with carbon water better than town
Very helpful. My question, which many people don't seem to address is about droppings on the roof? Birds, Squirrels, etc and going to leave feces / urine on the roof no matter how hard people try to keep it clean. How is all of that addressed properly to the highest degree of safety?
The multiple filters I pointed out collect a vast majority of the sediment from those things you mention. At then end of the system we have a Berkey filter to purify for drinking. Some people use a small amount of bleach in the tank or a UV light treatment system.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thanks
Yes. What worries me is the oily or dirty film off of a metal roof. Rsin just doesnt seem to clean off my metsl roofs, ever.
Very well done video
Thank you
Thank you for the tips
you're welcome
How do you remove the nano nano and what is sprayed in air that lands in it?
Multiple layers of filtration
I live in a dryer climate. Is it a good or bad idea to collect rain water from a solar panel array?
Absolutely. It is glass on the solar panels you would be collecting from.
Another mechanism to prevent mosquitos is to add a cup of Kerosene to the tank.
This forms a barrier on top on the water, that prevents the Mossie Larva from breathing.
You just need to replenish the kero every time your tank overflows.
NOTE: Kero and Water DO NOT MIX so contamination is not a worry.
I wonder how much roofing material choice affects the water quality.. It seems that asphalt shingles would release som toxic/damaging things as they get heat cycled and that those things would pass through any screens.. It seems like metal roofing would be a better choice if you had it to make.
It affects it. Metal is best. It is all about your filtration after the fact.
Great video, thanks! I’m wondering how long you can safely store the water with this set up (dark tanks, screens and secure openings, Dunkits)? Do you have to do anything else or add anything else for it to last 6 months or more? maybe up to 8 months? Thinking of subtropical regions with an actual monsoon season of 4 to 5 months with the rest of the year dry.
You're welcome. I honestly don't know what the longevity of the water would be. I have never researched that. Theoretically, you can filter any water not matter how old it is.
Thanks 😊
Should one put chemicals in the tank to keep it free from algae?
You should get the black tanks so that algae doesn’t grow in the first place. You can add a few caps of bleach if you like
Could you link the filteration parts? I did not see those listed
Sorry, yes. Here they are: Parts Used In This Video:
Norwesco 2500 gallon Rainwater Collection Tank: www.homedepot.com/p/Norwesco-2500-Gal-Black-Vertical-Water-Tank-40631/206479621
Blue Mountain Co. Rainwater Harvest Parts:
Leaf Eater: amzn.to/3F49NxR
First Flush:amzn.to/3zRM28d
Over Flow: amzn.to/2ZMHWC8
Tank Level Guage: amzn.to/3CWWbmb
3" PVC Pipe and elbows as needed.
1.5" PVC Pipe, 1.5" male threaded to female slip, 90 degree elbow, 1.5" DWV (Dish Washer) Trap Adapter Vent
I can't find a tank this large near me. I've been looking for quite some time. Anybody have a connection near Auburn Alabama?
Average rainfall in Phoenix Arizona is less than 8 inches of rain per year.
So inspiring!!
There are strict restrictions on capturing rain water in Oregon.
Sadly
We know how dangerous mosquitoes are. Watching from the Philippines
There wasn't a link in the description for the 2500 gal tanks, how much are they? Love these types of videos
Kate
Thanks.
We got the tanks through Home Depot. Here is a link to one...homedepot.sjv.io/bax9kv
@@CountryLivingExperience Lowe’s has a 2500 gal tank (looks nearly identical) for $1800, which is really good since we generally see prices around $1 per gallon.