The thinner oil Will Probably Have lower Oilpressure than The Thicker oil, Just because the Pump needs to push the thinner Oil faster to keep The Pressure up as it just "Runs" Through the Engine Componants
Now that you mention it that old dude that kind of runs the show and seems to be living out his teenage dreams while all the teenagers just watch. I can picture him in America in New York with lots of gold chains and a toupee running a local Russian Mafia. 🤣
Biggest difference will be during cold start and warm up. Longer term we can be sure the thinner oil will increase engine wear. Honda V6 engines have been wiping out cam lobes with 0w20. 0w7.5 is going to be worse yet.
But you'll get better mileage 🙄. This is why I always ask many maintenance questions when buying a used car vehicle. If they say they changed the oil line per the manufacturer recommendations I usually pass.
@descendinggod9740 hard to discuss the issue in generalities. Modern low vis oils usually aren't impressive in terms of the additive package. They have largely replaced effective EP additives such as ZDDP with molybdenum and calcium. The results are not great. With appropriately tight tolerances and proper surface finishes these modern engines do okay but they would do better with a 0w30 with a more conventional additive package.
Cam lobes have contact pressures so high that hydrodynamic lubrication by viscosity is less relevant. The oil's anti-wear chemicals and boundary lubrication predominate.
Very interesting results, but keep in mind that the difference under the load of actually driving will be much less dramatic than at idle since pumping/pushing oil around will be a much smaller percentage of the total engine load. Same reason why he showed in another video that just running the headlights drastically increased fuel consumption at idle while the difference is tiny in the real world. I'm not at all criticizing his test methodology as it seems to be well done and testing the differences at idle is totally valid, just a reminder to not take these results out of context.
Considering how most manufacturer's are switching to lower grade oils for claimed to be for "fuel economy" reasons, if the changes at idle are minimal, meaning the changes under load are even LESS apparent, this test is valid against the "fuel economy" claims that manufacturers are trying to push. Since we're talking such a small % at idle, meaning an even smaller % under load, but tests have shown SIGNIFICANTLY more wear, not just at the bearings and journals, but in the rings and bores as well, the test still shows that the manufacturer's "claims" can suck it
@@hypershadow5g From what I've seen, manufacturers aren't even claiming large gains from thinner oils. When Ford backspecced 5W-20 in the 2000's, they actually listed "up to" a 0.4% improvement in fuel efficiency vs the initially recommended 5W-30 as one of the main reason customers should switch to it. The fact is that manufacturers don't care if you use a slightly thicker oil. If they did, they wouldn't be allowed or even required in other countries for the same engines. The recommendations and even the specific wording used is purely regulatory here in America.
@ So Chevy does mandate the use of 0w20 oils in their engines now (at least for gas engines, not sure about diesel), otherwise you void your warranty and elsewhere, I didn't say manufacturers claimed large gains, just that they claimed the main reason for using thinner oils was better gas mileage/EPA requirements, even though there was evidence, even at the time, showing that thinner oils produced more wear all throughout the engine, and there's even more evidence now.
@@hypershadow5g Where does the manual say that using a different viscosity will void your warranty? At least here in America, the Magnuson-Moss warranty act would require the manufacturer to prove that the oil you used caused the failure for them to deny your claim. Most likely, the manufacturer wouldn't even be able to tell if the oil was a grade thicker than recommended. Even if the grade tested out of range, that still doesn't tell them which oil you used since oil can (and is allowed to under API specs) thin or thicken one grade during use. Not that I'm suggesting using thicker than the recommended oil or saying they can't try if they did find out, I'm just saying they legally can't void your warranty just because you did.
@@averyalexander2303 My bad, I should have said "if you use anything other than dexos branded 0w20 oils in their engine, AND they can find out/easily prove, they can void your warranty". it's not really them saying you -have- to, just that you're screwed if you don't and then they find out, IF your engine fails
the conditions in which the engine is operating make a difference too. extreme heat or cold make a big difference. Parts wearing in the long term is what I am thinking.
@jacobharryman822 A good call i think. I've done similar myself before and all my former cars have been 300k with no issues. Plus all old volvos, which helps!
the cooling system is supposed to maintain operating temperature independent of climate. the cold start however does make a big difference depending on climate
@@farerse If you are in a hot Summer or Using your Engine in a Harder way (racetrack For example) You should use a thicker oil to counter the Oil-breakdown because of heat.
@ some people claim their engine temp maintains operating temperature even in hot weather .. thermostat opens and fans kick on full blast when needed . agreed the racetrack will have a big impact on engine and oil
Thank you. That's a much bigger difference than I expected, though we should acknowledge that comparing 7.5-weight to 60-weight base oil is an extreme example; I've never even seen 10w-60. We have 20w-50, but it's becoming harder to find. 10w-60 has a *ton* of viscosity modifier and I would not expect it to have a long lifetime. A more typical comparison would be between similar grades where a vehicle recommends 5w-20 and the owner chooses to run 10w-30. This is usually authorized by the manufacturer so long as the vehicle isn't exposed to the kind of cold Garage 54 sees in Novosibirsk. Owner's manuals usually have a chart and the higher grade is fine above -20C or something like that. The efficiency cost should be minimal with such an increase, but 8% going from 10w-60 to 0w-7.5 certainly surprised me.
Thinner oil can also get past the rings more easily, especially in an engine that's in less than ideal condition, so it's possible that the fuel lasts longer cos the oil's supplementing it... :P
The lighter oil moves easier.. also moves off and away easier.. A heavier oil will stay and be where it’s needed when you start your car.. lighter oil will all be in your oil pan and some components may run dry for a second or 3 when you start the engine
Yep. Also, depending on engine condition, lighter oil kinda escapes into burning chamber. You kinda burn away more of them in comparison to heavier oil. To save fuel, you burn oil and make your overral engine condition worse... Gotta stick to manufacturer reference.
See, the thing is once oil Went Trough the Components once, There will be always a Slight oil-Film on the Engineparts, I Personally wouldn't Use anything Thinner than 0-20 Because of the Oil-breakdown when the Oil is Hot
Oh wow with the Honda oil coming in a metal container, there's a blast from the past. That's great to see, and environmentally friendly too, I'm your nearest plastic hater
heck if it asks for w30 you can use w40 ...yea it will use more gas but at least you don't chew on engine when you drive it faster than your average 80 year old lady.
the thinner oil creates a thinner oil film on cylinder wall. the thicker oil makes a thicker oil film on cylinder wall (and everything else) meaning the friction is higher, but has more of a barrier of protection, so if you have imperfections in the metal, the thicker oil fills the microscopic gap better while retaining protection against metal on metal. you understand now?
@@TheUchihasparky doesn't matter because the oil on the wall between wall and piston can only be as great as the clearance and as long as the oil fill in the gap, makes no difference when comes to engine wear or then thicker oil putting more stress on moving parts that have greater resistance to over come. You want find the perfect viscosity to fill in the gap as close to ideal as possible with leaning towards to much vs. to little.
There's a spectrum of non-synthetic (large difference in numbers before and after "w") oils applicable for a given temperature range. In general, use lighter (less viscous, non-synthetic) oils in colder climates and (more viscous) heavier oils in warmer climates. Use too thin of an oil, and wear will increase. Use too thick of an oil, it will increase fuel consumption and run hotter. Synthetic oils (small difference in "w" numbers) tend to be less susceptible to viscosity changes with temperature, and are preferable because they balance wear with lubrication better over a larger temperature range.
It's not really about the fuel consumption, it's what your motor is made to use in different weather conditions. Mine is made to use 10w-30 while a lot of newer cars are made to use really thin oil like 0w- 20. So for a fuel consumption comparison try using oil that is made for that motor then try lower and higher weight oils. Besides, I believe that a higher weight oil will stick to your bearings and such than a thin weight oil . If you've ever torn a motor apart that's been sitting for a couple years you'll still find a good amount of oil on the bearings.
More IMPORTANT than ANY of this is using the CORRECT Recommended oil for your vehicle and Regular servicing with good QUALITY oil!!!!! Using the Wrong oil could RUIN your Engine!!!!!!!!!
I would like to see this test done on a rolling round at a set rpm as this would be more like driving conditions with a higher engine temperature other than that this is a fantastic test and video and it's made my mind up that I'm going to use a thicker oil to protect the engine better rather than get fuel economy because the difference won't be that great for what I'm changing it to ,I'm going from 0w30 to 5w30
I would not use the thinner oil on older vehicles especially with hier miles you have bigger tolerance and need a thicker oil to fill in the wear even on newer vehicles i would only use the thin stuff up to around 100k maby except in winter months but definitely go thicker the more miles you go. Now if its a race car totally different thinner is better!!!!!!!
We should have included straight HD SAE40 oil in the experiment, thats the cheapest in the market, we should have also added 2 stroke oil in the fuel itself, that wouldve been even more efficient on the pistons!
The money you spend on light synthetic oil will save you a lot of gas when you use mineral oil as long as you change it every 4000 miles not to mention the oil consumption if your engine is old
Faster engine wear would be my concern with thinner oils. There is not enough difference in gas savings between the oil thickness to justify using thinner oil. I never owned a car that still had the owners manual to tell me the recommended oil to use so 20w 50 is what i went with.
For me at normal warm weather all year long, the best oil for many older engines i've used is 5w40 as opposed to 10w40, engine runs smoother, lifters are quiet since the very first cold start, and it still is a 40. I'm totally against people put 20w50 or higher on older and usually high mileage engines etc thinking it will offer better lubrication, you just need to change your oil when you have to there's no any magic to it. For extreme cold conditions any oil higher than 0w will make the engine run without oil for whole minutes each time so oil grade is out of the question.
Interesting test! But you can improve the test. Use the 0W-16 (or lower), a 0 or 5W-30 and a cheap 15W-40. Don't take 1 kg of fuel but 3 kg. Start to prepare the oil and the fuel in the evening and you place the car outside. 1st to 3rd morning: check the outside temperature and start to drive. How many km could you drive with 3 kg of fuel and the 3 different oils? That's a very practical test many people can relate to, worldwide! 😃
For a small increase in fuel efficiency you lose out on engine component protection that higher viscosity oil provides. Note at room temperature the bearing/shaft moved very slowly in Vlad's demo with higher viscosity compared to lower viscosity oil BUT at normal engine operating temperature the higher viscosity oil acts like the lower viscosity oil at room temp same demo and low viscosity oil is like water :D The dangers of lower viscosity oil at normal engine operating temps it's almost like water providing very little protection compared to higher viscosity oil. I'd stick to 10W at a minimum for modern engines and 20W for older. 5W is on the low side and I would never risk an engine with 0W in it. Keep in mind that oil pressure and engine starvation of oil is also an issue with lower viscosity oil. For track use this is a different discussion altogether and you'll be running 30W or 40W as the engine temps will perform hotter than normal road driving. Great video as always!
But modern engines usually requires thin oil due to tight tolerances, if you put a thick oil you're going to ruin it, specially when cold starting. My car uses 0w20 and I never ever used any other oil type, just the factory approved one.
so cool, it would be cool to make that Test again on higher revs so you got also more resistance from the crankshaft in the oil and other parts....... how much would there be the Difference ?
It all depends of the technologie , if we go to thin , less consumption but can cause problems of noise on the hydraulic valve pushers , premature ware and problems when bellow or over the working temperature . I only use 100% synt [1] on my cars : I use 10W60 in a 98 JDM TD with over 370000km ,because I use it when the weather is from 10 to 45 °C . In my 99 GDi JDM 4X4 that I run from -10 to 35°C (mostly in winter) I use 0W30 or 5W30 , that causes some Hydraulic pushers noise in summer at start , If I go 10W40 no noise in summer but the engine is harder to start when temperatures go below 4°C . In new cars , if they say to use "water" oil , it's better to follow , or the oil seals can fail because of the high viscosity and low tolerances ... any way , rare will be the modern engine that can go very high Km , if you dont change the "water oil" very frequently ... And I don't even speak of the cardboard engines with wet belts ...
i wonder how long-term wear on the engine would be with the thin oil vs the thicker if engine is designed for thin oil. will it wear faster with thick oil when cold if it can't get through passages or would switching to thicker oil in heat of summer help reduce wear when it is always hot out. I am more worried about engine wear than fuel economy
Sehr interessant. War der Motor beim ersten sowie beim Zweiten Versuchsablauf Warm gelaufen oder ist der erste Versuch bei Kalten Motor und der Zweite bei Warmen Motor durchgeführt worden?
Ja, sie haben doch jedes mal gewartet, bis das Kühlgebläse angeht, bevor sie die abgemessene Menge Benzin verwendet haben. Der Motor war also jedes mal Richtig warm
If I'm not mistaken the Super Thin 0w-7.5 is for Honda Earth Dreams Engines, which are hybrid electric gas or diesel engines... The engines are modified to increase fuel efficiency in many ways, one of which is the use of thinner oil...
👍 video. how would you test for longevity of engine in daily driver that had heated oil and pressurized before starting . would the cost doing that pay off
I’m currently using 20w50 in my 4 cyl Saturn LW200… It was leaking a little so I’ve tried 10W40 for a couple of years and now 20w50 and a bottle of thick bear additive and the leak stopped. How long will the car last we will see. Odometer shows 195 000 miles. It’s been a great car over the last 12 years I drive it.
Well, actually ow75 is much ticker (more viscous) on running temperature of the motor then 10w60 🤣 First number (w number) is viscosity on 0 degrees Celsius , and second number is more important, it is viscosity on running temperature of the engine (usually around 100 degrees Celsius)
Now use the same oils, but over a longer duration and send the oil samples in for analysis. Show how much the motor wears from the lower viscosity oil.
Thin oil, accelerated wear! No free lunch - you have to pay the price one way or another!!! I'd stick with higher viscosity oil. The savings is negligible! The air in your tires make more of a difference!!!!
now you are just being stupid. The higher visco oil is for hotter engines. of course it perform worse on cold/idleing engine. There is reason why racecars or high perf cars use 10w60 and not the regular daily drivers. But you test them under idle which is not even daily driving. it's so far off . Best you can do is run the engine at 5000rpm for the test. You can get it done much faster also. I'm not saying that the results will be if ran like that, but running it like this is just plain showbussiness.
First time I've seen 10w60 & 0w7.5.
10W60 is popular in bikes and for racing cars, basically if you trashing engine 10w50 or 10w60 is perfect, but 0w7.5 is close to water.
@@PREDATEURLT 10-50 i have seen for bikes
but 10-60 is new to me
I've seen 20W50 for higher-performance boat engines and motorcycles.
I even use the Motul 20w60 on my Audi 200 20v
10W50 and 10W60, preferably with an additive, is commonly known as "the gravy", and it's used to keep old shitboxes running.
Very interesting! Also interesting would be how oil pressure changes.
you mean water pressure lol
The thinner oil Will Probably Have lower Oilpressure than The Thicker oil, Just because the Pump needs to push the thinner Oil faster to keep The Pressure up as it just "Runs" Through the Engine Componants
@@Adrian-mq5ld Water pressure? How would this effect water pressure? Water pressure is not measured. Water temperature is.
That and does it effect the running temp also?
@@_HippieThugg_ if your oil has the viscosity of water its called water pressure lol
That mechanic with the beard is the first normal looking dude I've ever seen on this channel.
Now that you mention it that old dude that kind of runs the show and seems to be living out his teenage dreams while all the teenagers just watch. I can picture him in America in New York with lots of gold chains and a toupee running a local Russian Mafia. 🤣
Biggest difference will be during cold start and warm up. Longer term we can be sure the thinner oil will increase engine wear. Honda V6 engines have been wiping out cam lobes with 0w20. 0w7.5 is going to be worse yet.
Exactly 💯 I definitely go with something thinner in winter
But you'll get better mileage 🙄. This is why I always ask many maintenance questions when buying a used car vehicle. If they say they changed the oil line per the manufacturer recommendations I usually pass.
Its actually quite the opposite. Thin oil has so many anti wear additives that in a study they actually outperformed thick oil by a noticeable margin.
@descendinggod9740 hard to discuss the issue in generalities. Modern low vis oils usually aren't impressive in terms of the additive package. They have largely replaced effective EP additives such as ZDDP with molybdenum and calcium. The results are not great. With appropriately tight tolerances and proper surface finishes these modern engines do okay but they would do better with a 0w30 with a more conventional additive package.
Cam lobes have contact pressures so high that hydrodynamic lubrication by viscosity is less relevant. The oil's anti-wear chemicals and boundary lubrication predominate.
It would be great to analyze the oils after the test to see the wear
Save money on fuel but spend five times more on oil
luckily with 0w7.5 you will only have to do a couple of oil changes during the entire life of the engine
@letmeout616 Really. I never heard of the oil until a few months ago. I am going to look into it
@@markchapman2585 i was trying to make a joke, the engine's life will be so short with such thin oil that you'll end up spending very little on it
@letmeout616 I didn't think you're joking because my friend newer BMW oil is something like that. He still charges it at 5000 miles.
@@markchapman2585 its most likely 0W30 or 5W30/5W40. BMW doesn't use oil that thin. They know better.
Very interesting results, but keep in mind that the difference under the load of actually driving will be much less dramatic than at idle since pumping/pushing oil around will be a much smaller percentage of the total engine load. Same reason why he showed in another video that just running the headlights drastically increased fuel consumption at idle while the difference is tiny in the real world.
I'm not at all criticizing his test methodology as it seems to be well done and testing the differences at idle is totally valid, just a reminder to not take these results out of context.
Considering how most manufacturer's are switching to lower grade oils for claimed to be for "fuel economy" reasons, if the changes at idle are minimal, meaning the changes under load are even LESS apparent, this test is valid against the "fuel economy" claims that manufacturers are trying to push.
Since we're talking such a small % at idle, meaning an even smaller % under load, but tests have shown SIGNIFICANTLY more wear, not just at the bearings and journals, but in the rings and bores as well, the test still shows that the manufacturer's "claims" can suck it
@@hypershadow5g From what I've seen, manufacturers aren't even claiming large gains from thinner oils. When Ford backspecced 5W-20 in the 2000's, they actually listed "up to" a 0.4% improvement in fuel efficiency vs the initially recommended 5W-30 as one of the main reason customers should switch to it.
The fact is that manufacturers don't care if you use a slightly thicker oil. If they did, they wouldn't be allowed or even required in other countries for the same engines. The recommendations and even the specific wording used is purely regulatory here in America.
@ So Chevy does mandate the use of 0w20 oils in their engines now (at least for gas engines, not sure about diesel), otherwise you void your warranty
and elsewhere, I didn't say manufacturers claimed large gains, just that they claimed the main reason for using thinner oils was better gas mileage/EPA requirements, even though there was evidence, even at the time, showing that thinner oils produced more wear all throughout the engine, and there's even more evidence now.
@@hypershadow5g Where does the manual say that using a different viscosity will void your warranty? At least here in America, the Magnuson-Moss warranty act would require the manufacturer to prove that the oil you used caused the failure for them to deny your claim.
Most likely, the manufacturer wouldn't even be able to tell if the oil was a grade thicker than recommended. Even if the grade tested out of range, that still doesn't tell them which oil you used since oil can (and is allowed to under API specs) thin or thicken one grade during use.
Not that I'm suggesting using thicker than the recommended oil or saying they can't try if they did find out, I'm just saying they legally can't void your warranty just because you did.
@@averyalexander2303 My bad, I should have said "if you use anything other than dexos branded 0w20 oils in their engine, AND they can find out/easily prove, they can void your warranty". it's not really them saying you -have- to, just that you're screwed if you don't and then they find out, IF your engine fails
the conditions in which the engine is operating make a difference too. extreme heat or cold make a big difference. Parts wearing in the long term is what I am thinking.
My car calls for 5w-20, but due to it being higher mileage I have been running 5w-30 in the summer and 5w-20 in the winter.
@jacobharryman822 A good call i think. I've done similar myself before and all my former cars have been 300k with no issues. Plus all old volvos, which helps!
the cooling system is supposed to maintain operating temperature independent of climate. the cold start however does make a big difference depending on climate
@@farerse If you are in a hot Summer or Using your Engine in a Harder way (racetrack For example) You should use a thicker oil to counter the Oil-breakdown because of heat.
@ some people claim their engine temp maintains operating temperature even in hot weather .. thermostat opens and fans kick on full blast when needed . agreed the racetrack will have a big impact on engine and oil
I've never seen these grades of oil in the US. I have seen 0w8 and 5w50. You guys make such great videos.
You must not work on economy cars or race cars
Now do a longevity test with the same oils, and math it out to see if you save enough money for the new engine you'll need sooner.
Thank you. That's a much bigger difference than I expected, though we should acknowledge that comparing 7.5-weight to 60-weight base oil is an extreme example; I've never even seen 10w-60. We have 20w-50, but it's becoming harder to find. 10w-60 has a *ton* of viscosity modifier and I would not expect it to have a long lifetime.
A more typical comparison would be between similar grades where a vehicle recommends 5w-20 and the owner chooses to run 10w-30. This is usually authorized by the manufacturer so long as the vehicle isn't exposed to the kind of cold Garage 54 sees in Novosibirsk. Owner's manuals usually have a chart and the higher grade is fine above -20C or something like that. The efficiency cost should be minimal with such an increase, but 8% going from 10w-60 to 0w-7.5 certainly surprised me.
Thinner oil can also get past the rings more easily, especially in an engine that's in less than ideal condition, so it's possible that the fuel lasts longer cos the oil's supplementing it... :P
in 1 hour how much oil is going to be burned in an engine? even a badly worn engines takes a few thousand miles to burn up a quart
8 percent more engine wear, 8 percent more oil consumption
This video is more educative than most, when it comes to this matter.
Awesome test to do my frosty friends. ✌️ 🇮🇪
The lighter oil moves easier.. also moves off and away easier..
A heavier oil will stay and be where it’s needed when you start your car..
lighter oil will all be in your oil pan and some components may run dry for a second or 3 when you start the engine
Heavier oil in cold weather is not where its needed in cold weather. When the engine warms up it begins circulation to needed areas.
Yep. Also, depending on engine condition, lighter oil kinda escapes into burning chamber. You kinda burn away more of them in comparison to heavier oil.
To save fuel, you burn oil and make your overral engine condition worse...
Gotta stick to manufacturer reference.
@@fatihemre22 I would love to see an old diesel engine on very light oil. I wonder if it cloud burn enough oil to run just on it.
See, the thing is once oil Went Trough the Components once, There will be always a Slight oil-Film on the Engineparts, I Personally wouldn't Use anything Thinner than 0-20 Because of the Oil-breakdown when the Oil is Hot
Thicker oil also takes longer to flow and starves the parts of oil on start
Oh wow with the Honda oil coming in a metal container, there's a blast from the past. That's great to see, and environmentally friendly too, I'm your nearest plastic hater
that one is a legit dam good question i have never thought about, thanks
8% less fuel consumption, 80% more engine wear. 😅
heck if it asks for w30 you can use w40 ...yea it will use more gas but at least you don't chew on engine when you drive it faster than your average 80 year old lady.
🤔don't make sense, as if the oil is not protecting from wear it be using more fuel because of friction of the parts rubbing against each other.
the thinner oil creates a thinner oil film on cylinder wall. the thicker oil makes a thicker oil film on cylinder wall (and everything else) meaning the friction is higher, but has more of a barrier of protection, so if you have imperfections in the metal, the thicker oil fills the microscopic gap better while retaining protection against metal on metal. you understand now?
Except they both have the same viscosity, just at different temperatures.
@@TheUchihasparky doesn't matter because the oil on the wall between wall and piston can only be as great as the clearance and as long as the oil fill in the gap, makes no difference when comes to engine wear or then thicker oil putting more stress on moving parts that have greater resistance to over come. You want find the perfect viscosity to fill in the gap as close to ideal as possible with leaning towards to much vs. to little.
This is a great idea, I could have sworn my old tired 5.0 revved slower with 20-50 when my mechanic recommended it many years ago...
Soon there will be a -5W0
I love your videos
There's a spectrum of non-synthetic (large difference in numbers before and after "w") oils applicable for a given temperature range.
In general, use lighter (less viscous, non-synthetic) oils in colder climates and (more viscous) heavier oils in warmer climates.
Use too thin of an oil, and wear will increase. Use too thick of an oil, it will increase fuel consumption and run hotter.
Synthetic oils (small difference in "w" numbers) tend to be less susceptible to viscosity changes with temperature, and are preferable because they balance wear with lubrication better over a larger temperature range.
Best chanel on youtube.
Much love from Poland
This is an excellent TH-cam channel.
It's not really about the fuel consumption, it's what your motor is made to use in different weather conditions. Mine is made to use 10w-30 while a lot of newer cars are made to use really thin oil like 0w- 20. So for a fuel consumption comparison try using oil that is made for that motor then try lower and higher weight oils. Besides, I believe that a higher weight oil will stick to your bearings and such than a thin weight oil . If you've ever torn a motor apart that's been sitting for a couple years you'll still find a good amount of oil on the bearings.
I switched to low viscosity blinker fluid six months ago and now I’m getting an extra 3 miles per gallon!!!
Lucas oil would have been interesting to see the affects..also be great to see performance difference
The problem is the sheer sstrength of the oil. You want to use the thinnest oil that will maintain a film at all operating temps.
........and operating conditions.
Very good demonstration, it was very interesting and informative.
Thank you.💪💪
More IMPORTANT than ANY of this is using the CORRECT Recommended oil for your vehicle and Regular servicing with good QUALITY oil!!!!! Using the Wrong oil could RUIN your Engine!!!!!!!!!
I would like to see this test done on a rolling round at a set rpm as this would be more like driving conditions with a higher engine temperature other than that this is a fantastic test and video and it's made my mind up that I'm going to use a thicker oil to protect the engine better rather than get fuel economy because the difference won't be that great for what I'm changing it to ,I'm going from 0w30 to 5w30
I would rather see a comparison of the wear and tear head to head. Haha
The best 10W30
I would not use the thinner oil on older vehicles especially with hier miles you have bigger tolerance and need a thicker oil to fill in the wear even on newer vehicles i would only use the thin stuff up to around 100k maby except in winter months but definitely go thicker the more miles you go. Now if its a race car totally different thinner is better!!!!!!!
We should have included straight HD SAE40 oil in the experiment, thats the cheapest in the market, we should have also added 2 stroke oil in the fuel itself, that wouldve been even more efficient on the pistons!
in the usa we have 0-10 weight used in dodge mini vans. if you use higher the oil light goes on.
Bc they are junk
7:35 8% difference just at idle! Wow! I wonder what a legit road trip difference would look like!
you guy should check if lower viscosity increases oil consumption now
Great vid! I wonder what we would see with increased rpm and load
We really need to see the difference between 5W20 and 0W7.5 to see if there is any benefit. Not many people running 10W60.
The money you spend on light synthetic oil will save you a lot of gas when you use mineral oil as long as you change it every 4000 miles not to mention the oil consumption if your engine is old
Faster engine wear would be my concern with thinner oils. There is not enough difference in gas savings between the oil thickness to justify using thinner oil. I never owned a car that still had the owners manual to tell me the recommended oil to use so 20w 50 is what i went with.
For me at normal warm weather all year long, the best oil for many older engines i've used is 5w40 as opposed to 10w40, engine runs smoother, lifters are quiet since the very first cold start, and it still is a 40.
I'm totally against people put 20w50 or higher on older and usually high mileage engines etc thinking it will offer better lubrication, you just need to change your oil when you have to there's no any magic to it.
For extreme cold conditions any oil higher than 0w will make the engine run without oil for whole minutes each time so oil grade is out of the question.
Interesting test!
But you can improve the test. Use the 0W-16 (or lower), a 0 or 5W-30 and a cheap 15W-40.
Don't take 1 kg of fuel but 3 kg. Start to prepare the oil and the fuel in the evening and you place the car outside.
1st to 3rd morning: check the outside temperature and start to drive. How many km could you drive with 3 kg of fuel and the 3 different oils?
That's a very practical test many people can relate to, worldwide! 😃
The money that will be saved in burning fuel is lower than the price of oil
Why was Honda oil brand not hidden while other oils were hidden?
I think it's because other brands aren't available in Russia due to sanctions and companies are considered "unfriendly" to Russia.
For a small increase in fuel efficiency you lose out on engine component protection that higher viscosity oil provides. Note at room temperature the bearing/shaft moved very slowly in Vlad's demo with higher viscosity compared to lower viscosity oil BUT at normal engine operating temperature the higher viscosity oil acts like the lower viscosity oil at room temp same demo and low viscosity oil is like water :D The dangers of lower viscosity oil at normal engine operating temps it's almost like water providing very little protection compared to higher viscosity oil. I'd stick to 10W at a minimum for modern engines and 20W for older. 5W is on the low side and I would never risk an engine with 0W in it. Keep in mind that oil pressure and engine starvation of oil is also an issue with lower viscosity oil. For track use this is a different discussion altogether and you'll be running 30W or 40W as the engine temps will perform hotter than normal road driving. Great video as always!
Try putting 2 stroke oil instead of normal oil and see what happens
2s goes to fuel
I know but would be interesting to see how engine works with that type of oil or how long it lasts
How does thin oil affect oil consumption is also a good question.
But modern engines usually requires thin oil due to tight tolerances, if you put a thick oil you're going to ruin it, specially when cold starting. My car uses 0w20 and I never ever used any other oil type, just the factory approved one.
Curious to see
so cool, it would be cool to make that Test again on higher revs so you got also more resistance from the crankshaft in the oil and other parts....... how much would there be the Difference ?
Thinnest oil I've ever seen on a shelf was 0W0.
Was temperature in the room the same across the whole test?
4:20 nice
Can you use 2 stroke oil on a 4 stroke engine?
It all depends of the technologie , if we go to thin , less consumption but can cause problems of noise on the hydraulic valve pushers , premature ware and problems when bellow or over the working temperature . I only use 100% synt [1] on my cars : I use 10W60 in a 98 JDM TD with over 370000km ,because I use it when the weather is from 10 to 45 °C . In my 99 GDi JDM 4X4 that I run from -10 to 35°C (mostly in winter) I use 0W30 or 5W30 , that causes some Hydraulic pushers noise in summer at start , If I go 10W40 no noise in summer but the engine is harder to start when temperatures go below 4°C .
In new cars , if they say to use "water" oil , it's better to follow , or the oil seals can fail because of the high viscosity and low tolerances ... any way , rare will be the modern engine that can go very high Km , if you dont change the "water oil" very frequently ... And I don't even speak of the cardboard engines with wet belts ...
I run my 1.9 diesel Saab on 15w40 and never had any issues
Idling v under load probably shows less of a difference
Now do the test again under load.
Need a higher sample size!
The test should be done under load
7:42 Is this not a straight 20 weight? Is this a translation error or is there something else going on here?
We're both started from a cold star
i wonder how long-term wear on the engine would be with the thin oil vs the thicker if engine is designed for thin oil. will it wear faster with thick oil when cold if it can't get through passages or would switching to thicker oil in heat of summer help reduce wear when it is always hot out. I am more worried about engine wear than fuel economy
Sehr interessant. War der Motor beim ersten sowie beim Zweiten Versuchsablauf Warm gelaufen oder ist der erste Versuch bei Kalten Motor und der Zweite bei Warmen Motor durchgeführt worden?
Ja, sie haben doch jedes mal gewartet, bis das Kühlgebläse angeht, bevor sie die abgemessene Menge Benzin verwendet haben.
Der Motor war also jedes mal Richtig warm
Not seen a 0W-7.5 yet
Use what the manufacturer says to use.
the 10w60 is Mobil 1
what is the superthin oil for? anyone knows?
If I'm not mistaken the Super Thin 0w-7.5 is for Honda Earth Dreams Engines, which are hybrid electric gas or diesel engines... The engines are modified to increase fuel efficiency in many ways, one of which is the use of thinner oil...
@@mikaelbeeche9041 afaik those engines run on 0W20.
I care more about how the oil protects the life of the engine.
how about you change brake lines to 10mm copper pipe and see if it improves the braking
👍 video. how would you test for longevity of engine in daily driver that had heated oil and pressurized before starting . would the cost doing that pay off
I’m currently using 20w50 in my 4 cyl Saturn LW200… It was leaking a little so I’ve tried 10W40 for a couple of years and now 20w50 and a bottle of thick bear additive and the leak stopped. How long will the car last we will see. Odometer shows 195 000 miles. It’s been a great car over the last 12 years I drive it.
You should have started with very cold engines.
Well, actually ow75 is much ticker (more viscous) on running temperature of the motor then 10w60 🤣 First number (w number) is viscosity on 0 degrees Celsius , and second number is more important, it is viscosity on running temperature of the engine (usually around 100 degrees Celsius)
How are you not on the frontline.
now hyou should test also how much oil it consumed
at idle it is 8%. in load it might be more
If thinner oil gives you more time how long would WD-40 last
I assume thats mobil 10-60?
Ca sent le Business... Pourquoi tu as quitté tes Lada.!? C'est Honda qui t'a fourni la voiture?
Bro Make a series on the 2 stroke engine And then once you get it running properly take it to a Race track💪😎🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
KY Jelly should have been tried
Now use the same oils, but over a longer duration and send the oil samples in for analysis. Show how much the motor wears from the lower viscosity oil.
Now run a diesel engine on these oils as fuel
Thin oil, accelerated wear! No free lunch - you have to pay the price one way or another!!! I'd stick with higher viscosity oil. The savings is negligible! The air in your tires make more of a difference!!!!
1:05 2JZ no shit!
you need to try this on a modern engine. the 2jz is from dinosaur times,.
Try the same test but at 4000-5000 RPM. You will get different results.
Nice Mobil 10W60 ;)
I tuoi video si distinguono sempre per la loro qualità e originalità. Grazie per il tuo contributo!😚🍀😜
👍
Mobil 1 Motorsport Formula 10w60 😄
now you are just being stupid. The higher visco oil is for hotter engines. of course it perform worse on cold/idleing engine. There is reason why racecars or high perf cars use 10w60 and not the regular daily drivers. But you test them under idle which is not even daily driving. it's so far off . Best you can do is run the engine at 5000rpm for the test. You can get it done much faster also. I'm not saying that the results will be if ran like that, but running it like this is just plain showbussiness.
It is worth while watching The Motor Oil Geek. He tested different viscosities for wear on the engine in a performance engine.
Funny you cover up an obvious brand of oil.... I wonder why....
blayt!
If you're taking suggestions:
Does semen work as an engine lubricant.
(Just find a my little pony fan, that can sell you it by the bucket)
Lmao