That white ring in the seal MUST be kept in place until installed! It will center the seal on the crank and keep it from pushing out when installed. DO NOT Grease the plate when installing the seal. Great video, Most leaks are from this area and a lot of leaks are from the upper gasket on this plate and not the main seal BUT Always replace Both when doing this as you have done.
this is a must for ANYONE who buys an LS engine. especially from the salvage yard. did this on my 04. Was a PITA at first becuz it was my first time and i was under equipped. Also dont cheap out. get OEM or felpro. nothing less. you'll be glad you did. as for this video, its magical and very much needed for anyone looking to take on this feat. way to go man.
I have a 2004 Suburban I need this done to badly. You make this look so easy, I wish I had the confidence to do this without screwing up my only means on transportation.
Just did this in a 97 Silverado and the layout is very close. The biggest problem we had was getting the dipstick tube brackets to set while we put the tranny back in.... and we attached the flywheel on backwards. Don't do that lol but it took about 5 hours total, because you have to take the exhausts, driveshaft and crossmember. when you add in a rust factor, spray your exhaust 02 sensors with antisieze before you start anything.
Actual seal work looks like a piece of cake. Having to pull the transmission to access it turns this into a major project. If I do it I will for sure utilize the alignment tool I would not want to have to do this a second time! Getting some local shops to price it for me to see how much "incentive" I have to do this myself Hahah
@@dudewecanfixit I am not usually at all interested in "snake oil" but after watching some videos for what it is going to take to pull a Tahoe Hybrid 4x4 transmission and transfer case i broke down and bought a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer (magic in a bottle) and poured it in. I figure at +266k miles it cannot actually hurt anything, Some people actually claim that it worked so I figure it is probably around a 10% chance Hahah I will update on that and what my local "Cooters" garage would charge to do this in a couple of weeks. Oh and 09 4x4 Tahoe for sale CHEAP!!!
Yep, I'll hope for the best with you as well! Being that the rear main seal comes into contact with a rotating metal part, I do not think that a stop leak will be effective at all. However, using high mileage motor oil with a rubber conditioner may restore some of the fluff to the rear main seal and close the gap that the oil is leaking through
You first have to line up the cover and then install the seal. Cover has to be centred relative to the crank. You cannot install the seal on the cover first and then install the cover. The seal may still leak
If the rear main seal on an LS engine is installed the way shown here - it will be sure to leak. The most important thing when doing this, is the alignment of the rear plate. The plate relies on the oil pan for support and alignment. This video shows the wrong way to tighten the plate - especially the long bolts that go through the oil pan to the rear plate. Sad to see so many videos that will cause more harm than good out there,
@@dudewecanfixitrear main diverter galley plug is the orange round thing on the left side of the engine block when facing forward. You ran your hand right over it when you did the rear main seal.
Ok so if I’m honest I’m watching MANY videos on LS rear main seal installs just so I’m up to speed on these particular cars. But in my 40+years as a car builder I’ve never seen anyone drive a seal in with a flat blade screw driver and a chisel?!? Considering that most all other videos exclaim how important it is that this seal and cover are centered on the end of the crank (and I can see why) the techs that installed my rear main seal in my 99 C5 Vette evidently missed this alignment (these were experienced Chevy dealership techs) and my car started pissing out oil the day after I picked it up! This is why I’m now schooling myself on this topic. So I can check things as they do it again! There is a alignment tool that should be used to install that cover so it’s centered on the crank and then is used to put the seal in!
We installed that seal in May of 2020. It's still doing fine. It turns out that the seal pretty much just sits in the bore and doesn't need to be driven in. It looked like it needed to go in a little farther, that's why I was gently tapping it in.
You are a true Professional. Dude you are a real mechanic. I Watched the series and was so impressed with the transmission rebuild.Great video great skill set.
I have a 2005 Yukon 5.3L 4x4. Looks exactly the same. I may have a very slow rear main leak. I just got it and am watching it now after a fresh oil change. Has 216,000 miles on it. Seems to run great though. 3 questions: 1. Was there a cover on your inspection hole that shows the bottom of the flex plate? Mine does not have a cover of any type. I can see the bottom of the flex plate. 2. I have a pair of ramps that raises vehicles back or front tires by about 12". Would that be helpful to use for this job? 3. So the rear seal has two parts? A shaft seal, plus a shaft seal cover gasket?
I don't remember if that truck had an inspection hole. I generally use Jack stands if I'm removing the transmission. It gives you more room to work. The rear main seal is just the seal and there is a gasket on the plate.
I once heard that with some seals greasing the inside of the seal is not recommended because the seal needs dryness to seal it self to the crankshaft; I have not heard anyone say that recently; I wonder if it is because they are missing it.
Hey man I noticed you retirases the two bottom bolts how many ft pounds of torque did you change it to because I tried doing 15 pony down torque and one snapped off now I’m on the wait of new bolts TIA
So mine leaks but its extremely minor. You only see it on the underside of the transmission and it isnt enough to drip down. Can I leave this alone or should i fix it asap/ will it get worse?
It will surely get worse over time. It will not cause engine damage as long as you check your oil level regularly and make sure you have enough oil. I personally don't replace the seal unless it is leaking a lot of oil or I am already removing the transmission for another reason. It's a pretty big job.
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
The harmonic balancer on my Toyota Camry came apart after 500,000, miles. It had a rubber piece between the inner and outer metal sections. It just happens over time. The hammer may have sped it up though
@@dudewecanfixit I always thought they were one solid piece of iron,, learned something new. not knowing this can happen could be a nightmare trying to get an engine that is out of time sorted out. if the hub slips just a little inside, the timing will be off. I will bet this has happened plenty of times and drove people nuts.
@@dudewecanfixit Never grease the outside of the seal where it fits in the cover, friction keeps it from moving. Carb cleaner probably isn't the best choice for a cleaner either as most carb cleaners will breakdown gaskets and rubber seals. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is my choice.
I’m about to make this repair on my wife’s 2005 Tahoe 4x4 . I was under the impression some type of alignment tool was needed to center the seal perfectly and then tighten the cover
Oh man. This looks so easy. But you make it look hard. I'm gonna go out tomorrow morning and knock this out in a half hour and then go upstairs and take my old lady in the crapper.
You're the first person I've seen using grease to hold/lube/seal...How has this heldup overtime? I'm rebuilding an LQ4 for my DD, I wanna keep my engine bay clean as long as I can - no leaks. TIA
We’ve been getting a lot of confusion on greasing the seal. It worked for us and the truck has been running perfectly for the past 2 years lol 🤷🏽♂️ if you feel safer not using it then by all means. This is just what worked for us personally
@@dudewecanfixit you did it correct, grease,oil its no difference. only thing is you dont have to pop the rear cover off to get the seal out. si actually says not to
How is it good that the seal can just "pop" out when installing the cover? If its that easy to come out why couldn't it come out under operation? Does the flexplate hold it in?
It was popping out because he applied grease to the inner part of the seal and rear cover. Both are to be dry 100%. Do not use grease or oil. You can apply a light amount of grease to the outer facing part of the seal once it is installed, but not the inner part or the metal of the cover. It will leak prematurely and possibly even right away.
Very nice video. Is this a common issue with Tahoe's? Prior to looking up your video I saw a used Tahoe online and the owner said it had this with this same issue.
@@dudewecanfixit I'm asking because I am about to do the rear main seal on my land rover, I have an old one out which folded over on itself and tore. I can't find any information on these vehicles. Not sure if I'm supposed to lube the new seal or not. But I don't think I am. Thanks for your response!
@@dudewecanfixit oh I spend hours reading forms and as much information as I can, not much exist. Even considered making it TH-cam channel just to cover these vehicles and repair components for normies like me looking for help
Hello, excuse me, I already replaced it but it's throwing more oil than I threw away. What possibilities are there for me to put it wrong and how can I do it or what do you think I'll put it wrong?
That's odd, maybe the seal was faulty. There is a comment under this video about a specific way to tighten the bolts. All I can think is the seal was not seated correctly or is faulty. Did you accidentally scratch the metal surface?
You didn’t center the seal and/or tightened the two oil pan bolts first and pulled the seal off center. This video didn’t exercise the importance of those two things which are extremely important! Taking down this video and replacing it with an updated video would save hundreds of leaks people are going to create following this video!
this would be like 75% easier if you just purchase the rear main seal that includes the plate.. you literally remove the old one and throw in the new one, seal and all
I'm about to change the seal out myself and I've been seeing some people online saying not to lube up the seal it's supposed to go in dry does it really matter
You need to let people know the bottom two long bolts that go through the oil pan are supposed to be torqued at 106 inch lbs not 18ft lbs. which are roughly 8.8 ft lbs. A guy can break those off if you over torque them. I seen you reset your torque wrench for those….
You earned a sub I'm slowing working myself into this field I've always wanted to be a mechanic or rather break shit and fix it later but it always seem intimidating after watching you along with other guys like scotty and chrisfix I have the confidence to move forward with my career choice for that thank you ✊🏿✊🏿
@@dudewecanfixit thanks for this update! I watched several videos and lubed mine up like you did with yours and started worrying after reading the "dry install" instructions...after I installed it lol.
It was shown , that grease was put on the outside and inside of the seal . But in the repair instructions you can read : "1. Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil seal (1) with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the seal surface. 2. Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean engine oil. DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact the crankshaft surface. Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) or the crankshaft surface" I think if this is written three times, it should be important to installation ?
You are 100% correct. You should not apply oil or grease to the inner surface of the seal or the rear main seal cover where the seal sits in. Exactly the reason why the seal started coming back out and will fail prematurely no matter what proper bolt tightening sequence you use. And never use a flathead screwdriver to tap the seal into place. In an attempt to help people you made many mistakes that others will end up having to learn the hard way.
You should also never use a screw driver to install any type of seal. Or use a pry bar on a sealing surface. Or tighten the bolts down on the rear cover in that sequence with the oil pan either. Oh, and if you have a blind hole crankshaft flange, make sure to put sealer on the crank bolt threads! But we can all just follow this guy’s poor advice instead, bc he’s got friendly music to listen to.
Did it work putting in the seal like that ? Not trying to be mean just asking ... I seen another vid where they line up the cover then put the seal ...
Awesome video. Clear and very well made and narrated. Thanks. I have a 6sp 1999 Camaro ss that got a new tranny in 2016. I developed a slow leak and it might be the main seal unfortunately the mechanic I used sold his business lock, stock and barrel to CVS. I can't do the work myself if it does turn out to be the main seal but at least your video gave me a good idea of what's involved and what I may need to pay without getting ripped off.
No, you don’t. But you do need to unbolt the transmission and either slide the transmission rearward out of your way, or remove it completely. For me, personally, I remove it completely because since it’s already unbolted, removing it gives me a whole lot more room to work in.
The two bolts that come up from The oil pan are where alot of people make the biggest mistake..these tend to be the first two people tighten first pulling the rear main seal cover down and warp the seal without knowing and continue to have a oil leak so they do the oil pan gasket and still have oil leak and get frustrated because the leak isn't fixed...alot figure since new seals and gasket they aren't the failure point when it was the install that was the problem....I've seen it and known some who have sunk thousands I've also managed to find a few people sell the vechicle dirt cheap because of this...
If you think that those 2 bolts tightened to 106in lbs is going to pull down on a plate that is bolted down with 12 bolts to the block you are out of your mind.
@@upnorth5465 if you tighten those two bolts while the twelve are loose what you reckon happens? If ya really wanna show off your smarts try stepping up your reading comprehension skills first, dipshitt...... 🤡🤡🤡
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 I'm talking about the 12 bolts that are clamping the rear cover to the back of the engine..... Not the remaining bolts on the oil pan, dip shit. The force of the 2 long bolts at 105in lbs that thread into that cover has 0 effect on the 12 rear cover bolts torqued to 22 ft lbs holding it in place. But If you knew how an ls engine was put together I wouldn't have to explain this to you would I?
Bro, seasoned mechanic here….as in 40 plus years! (So what, right?) I have to pull my tranny out for the 3rd time because of an oil leak off of the driver’s side. I torqued all the bolts, did my due diligence, and yet….2 weeks later I have a leak off the same side. I replaced barbell oil diverter because the old one was leaking, at that time, installed new rear main, and rear main plate gasket. Still? Leaks! Today I came out to my truck and underneath looked like a crime scene!!😂😂😂 Maybe I have a cracked rear main plate? Your advice is warranted, please.
Wow, that is wild! Are you able to determine where the oil is coming from? If its high up, dripping down the transmission, It could be the oil pressure sensor in the back of the valley,
@@dudewecanfixit I appreciate your advice as well. I spent 26 years in the Army, got out almost 2 years ago, and found out just how far behind the automotive learning curve I was! Lol!!! Yep, been at this for 40 years, but not full time. Amazing how things have changed!
Very true, things are constantly changing. I prefer 90s and early 2000s vehicles. The ones they are making now require $10k worth of computers and yearly subscriptions just to change and relearn parts.
Thank you. I didn't even know what a rear main seal is. Defiantly gonna leave this one to a pro with the proper equipment. I won't be able to schedule it until a month or so from now. It's not leaking a whole lot just a few drops. Parking over some cardboard for now. I am going on a 1,000 mi. road trip. Will the leakage get worse and should I be worried?
@@dudewecanfixit I re-removed the transmission and unbolted the flex plate and was able to manually turn the crankshaft pulley again which means that the flexplate bolts were too tight. I reinstalled the flexplate and hit each bolt once with the impact and I didn't have the same issue. I've seen various torque specs for the flexplate bolts and even called the dealer but they were no help. I'm not saying the 74 lbs is technically wrong, but if anyone is having this issue this is how to solve it.
I wonder if he got a leak because he didn't use the special tool to align the seal ? After you installed the cover plate first then you install seal. But you need to use the alignment tool .. or you could get to do the job again very soon. Good luck to all
When you buy the seal from the dealer, they recommend you buy the cover with the seal in it. You also get a new gaskets and bolts. So, don't think you can use an alignment tool. I tighten the plate before I tighten the pan bolts. I'm getting ready to do another rear main on a 5.3 and I'm reading about problems with the engine block leaking, there is a service bulletin explaining how to fix it.
@@markkossick1347 if you are not confident in just installing the seal into the old cover then yes anyone should buy the rear cover with the seal already in it. It is always best to go that route, especially for most of the folks that have commented on here that are ignorant to mechanics or rather the LS engine. Most thought this was the best video and it was highly misguided and will lead others to follow his lead and end up hating life because they will have leaks prematurely if not right away galloping this video. I know he meant well, but still....
@@dudewecanfixit Excellent Video, thanks for that, I think these steps would apply to my V6 Ecotec Commodore V.S. What Confused me was that at Several points throughout the Video ( 0:47, 9:18, 9:27, 10:18) The Flex-Plate was always referred to as a "Fly-Wheel". Other than that Great Video Series and I Learning a Lot, Thanks 👦🏿👍🏾
Good job man, BUT, the 2 long bolts from pan to seal do NOT get tightened to 18 foot lbs, it's 106 in lbs. You got lucky not to break them. Plus, it's good to run a bead of sealer across the entire bottom of the seal plate and also all the bolts, except for the 2 long bolts, to ensure no leaking anywhere.
@@knifethrower9733 Just run a bead of sealer across the bottom of the rear main cover and the bolts, and the corners of the oil pan of course. And tighten the bolts slightly one at a time until you have them spec. THEN DO you bottom bolts (the long ones) because if you install the long ones while you are tightening the little ones, you are going to pull the cover down on top of the crank flange. You want to let the cover center itself on the flange first with the little bolts!
Man yesterday I did my rear main seal and it was all bad , I turned on my car and everything spilled out 😢, I’m so pissed , it’s my first time doing it , but damn , I now I needa take everything apart again 😑
New video alert! th-cam.com/video/eT_slcxBV1Q/w-d-xo.html
That white ring in the seal MUST be kept in place until installed!
It will center the seal on the crank and keep it from pushing out when installed.
DO NOT Grease the plate when installing the seal.
Great video, Most leaks are from this area and a lot of leaks are from the upper gasket on this plate and not the main seal BUT Always replace Both when doing this as you have done.
Thanks for the input. Next time I'm in one of those, I'm going to make an updated video
this is a must for ANYONE who buys an LS engine. especially from the salvage yard. did this on my 04. Was a PITA at first becuz it was my first time and i was under equipped.
Also dont cheap out. get OEM or felpro. nothing less. you'll be glad you did. as for this video, its magical and very much needed for anyone looking to take on this feat. way to go man.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback!
Can you reuse the bolts or is it safer to replace the bolts
@@TheTrevorcapps yes you can reuse them. They weren't torque to yield
I have a 2004 Suburban I need this done to badly. You make this look so easy, I wish I had the confidence to do this without screwing up my only means on transportation.
You can definitely do it. The hard part is the transmission...
Give it a shot bud!
My 03 Tahoe needs this soooo bad 🤦🏿♂️
Me too
Same bro, my rear main has been leaking for years
Outstanding, clear, simple, well-narrated, no frills video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for supporting
Just did this in a 97 Silverado and the layout is very close. The biggest problem we had was getting the dipstick tube brackets to set while we put the tranny back in.... and we attached the flywheel on backwards. Don't do that lol
but it took about 5 hours total, because you have to take the exhausts, driveshaft and crossmember. when you add in a rust factor, spray your exhaust 02 sensors with antisieze before you start anything.
I'm glad you were able to get it! Good job
Always put rtv at the bottom of the cover plate that holds the two bottom screws your asking for a leak
Good advice
@@dudewecanfixit I've heard of people loosening the pan when they use the alignment tool shame shouldn't have to do that at all
I appreciate y'all's work on this series. I'm totally doing all of this soon. I have more confidence now . Thank you!
Happy we could instill that confidence! Any questions you have while doing it just let us know
The best, most detailed TH-cam how to video I’ve ever watched. Thank you.
Happy we were able to help! Make sure to subscribe for all your car needs 😁
Actual seal work looks like a piece of cake. Having to pull the transmission to access it turns this into a major project. If I do it I will for sure utilize the alignment tool I would not want to have to do this a second time! Getting some local shops to price it for me to see how much "incentive" I have to do this myself Hahah
Let us know the price range they quote you at
@@dudewecanfixit I am not usually at all interested in "snake oil" but after watching some videos for what it is going to take to pull a Tahoe Hybrid 4x4 transmission and transfer case i broke down and bought a bottle of Blue Devil rear main sealer (magic in a bottle) and poured it in. I figure at +266k miles it cannot actually hurt anything, Some people actually claim that it worked so I figure it is probably around a 10% chance Hahah I will update on that and what my local "Cooters" garage would charge to do this in a couple of weeks. Oh and 09 4x4 Tahoe for sale CHEAP!!!
Yep, I'll hope for the best with you as well! Being that the rear main seal comes into contact with a rotating metal part, I do not think that a stop leak will be effective at all. However, using high mileage motor oil with a rubber conditioner may restore some of the fluff to the rear main seal and close the gap that the oil is leaking through
I know... My 2002 avalanche is in she shop looking at a $600 bill
That's the best thing to do.
You first have to line up the cover and then install the seal. Cover has to be centred relative to the crank. You cannot install the seal on the cover first and then install the cover. The seal may still leak
Thanks for the info, we will be making a revised video!
this. why even remove the cover to begin with? you're asking for potential issues. just pop the old one out and the new one in.
Well explained. Great music choice, relaxing and enables the viewer to focus on what you are saying and doing. Thank you!
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to leave this comment!
If the rear main seal on an LS engine is installed the way shown here - it will be sure to leak. The most important thing when doing this, is the alignment of the rear plate. The plate relies on the oil pan for support and alignment. This video shows the wrong way to tighten the plate - especially the long bolts that go through the oil pan to the rear plate.
Sad to see so many videos that will cause more harm than good out there,
I plan on doing an update video in the future. Can you share the correct sequence?
@@dudewecanfixit pop the old seal out and new one in. no need to remove the cover.
Would have been a great time to replace the barbell oil diverter. LS rear Mail seal alignment tool is $25 and takes out the guess work.
What is the barbell oil diverter?
@@dudewecanfixit th-cam.com/video/V7p0h2VwGP0/w-d-xo.html
@@dudewecanfixit
I’m thinking they meant the galley plug
Sac city corvette makes a nice upgrade barbell
@@dudewecanfixitrear main diverter galley plug is the orange round thing on the left side of the engine block when facing forward. You ran your hand right over it when you did the rear main seal.
I was told to torque the very bottom long ones under the oil pan at 9 lbs and to tighten those last. Is that sound about right?
Yes, that sounds like good advice
I needed this done to my truck! came straight to your channel
Happy we could help! Thank you for the support!
Ok so if I’m honest I’m watching MANY videos on LS rear main seal installs just so I’m up to speed on these particular cars. But in my 40+years as a car builder I’ve never seen anyone drive a seal in with a flat blade screw driver and a chisel?!? Considering that most all other videos exclaim how important it is that this seal and cover are centered on the end of the crank (and I can see why) the techs that installed my rear main seal in my 99 C5 Vette evidently missed this alignment (these were experienced Chevy dealership techs) and my car started pissing out oil the day after I picked it up! This is why I’m now schooling myself on this topic. So I can check things as they do it again! There is a alignment tool that should be used to install that cover so it’s centered on the crank and then is used to put the seal in!
yep saw that too and was like wtf that seal won't last long lol!!!
We installed that seal in May of 2020. It's still doing fine.
It turns out that the seal pretty much just sits in the bore and doesn't need to be driven in. It looked like it needed to go in a little farther, that's why I was gently tapping it in.
You are a true Professional. Dude you are a real mechanic. I Watched the series and was so impressed with the transmission rebuild.Great video great skill set.
Thank you so much, i love feedback. Please subscribe to our channel.!
I have a 2005 Yukon 5.3L 4x4. Looks exactly the same. I may have a very slow rear main leak. I just got it and am watching it now after a fresh oil change. Has 216,000 miles on it. Seems to run great though.
3 questions:
1. Was there a cover on your inspection hole that shows the bottom of the flex plate? Mine does not have a cover of any type. I can see the bottom of the flex plate.
2. I have a pair of ramps that raises vehicles back or front tires by about 12". Would that be helpful to use for this job?
3. So the rear seal has two parts? A shaft seal, plus a shaft seal cover gasket?
I don't remember if that truck had an inspection hole.
I generally use Jack stands if I'm removing the transmission. It gives you more room to work.
The rear main seal is just the seal and there is a gasket on the plate.
Honestly I don’t know if I’d beat the new seal on with a screwdriver and hammer but thanks I needed this I’m tired of my oil leak 😂
My thoughts exactly. Like you spend all that money, remove my trans, then beat my seal in with a flathead? Yikes 😬. IDK about that either.
That was a bit strange, but ok! I get it!
It should just pop in there without needing the screwdriver.
It should just pop in there without needing the screwdriver.
It should just pop in there without needing the screwdriver.
I once heard that with some seals greasing the inside of the seal is not recommended because the seal needs dryness to seal it self to the crankshaft; I have not heard anyone say that recently; I wonder if it is because they are missing it.
Most people agree that they remain seal should be installed dry
PTFE seals go on dry. Regular ones need some lube/grease on the inside lips.
Hey man I noticed you retirases the two bottom bolts how many ft pounds of torque did you change it to because I tried doing 15 pony down torque and one snapped off now I’m on the wait of new bolts TIA
I think I just checked them at the same torque the second time.
Would it be the same with a 2012 GMC sierra 2500 HD 4x4 ?
It should be very similar
Do you think it's possible to just scoot the transmission back instead of dropping it with all the exhaust?
It's possible. I saw another guy on TH-cam do that.
So you don't have to use the centering ring for the rear main seal?
It is recommended to use the centering ring
Thank you very much was able pull trans and replace seal easily with your video you did great work 👍🏼
Awesome, thanks for the feedback!
So mine leaks but its extremely minor. You only see it on the underside of the transmission and it isnt enough to drip down. Can I leave this alone or should i fix it asap/ will it get worse?
It will surely get worse over time. It will not cause engine damage as long as you check your oil level regularly and make sure you have enough oil.
I personally don't replace the seal unless it is leaking a lot of oil or I am already removing the transmission for another reason. It's a pretty big job.
sir have you even seen a SBC harmonic balancer seperate.. Im rebuilding a 4.3 chevy,, the sleeve on the balancer had a groove worn in it from the seal. I bought a speedy sleeve and put the balancer in the freezer for abt an hour to shrink the metal. I took it to my bench, installed the speedy sleeve and let the balancer come to room temp. I then took a rubber mallet and was getting the balancer started on the crankshaft. I noticed little pieces of rubber falling out, so I started hitting it with the mallet to take it off and the outer ring of the balancer seperated from the inner ring.,. so did me putting it in the freezer cause this? or was it just old and brittle.. the inner and outer parts of the ring seem to be glued together.. I was shocked that it seperated..
The harmonic balancer on my Toyota Camry came apart after 500,000, miles. It had a rubber piece between the inner and outer metal sections. It just happens over time. The hammer may have sped it up though
@@dudewecanfixit I always thought they were one solid piece of iron,, learned something new. not knowing this can happen could be a nightmare trying to get an engine that is out of time sorted out. if the hub slips just a little inside, the timing will be off. I will bet this has happened plenty of times and drove people nuts.
since when do you lube a dry mounted rear main seal?
I always lubricate seals that are touching moving parts. There were no instructions saying otherwise.
Thos are dry fit seals.
@@dudewecanfixit Never grease the outside of the seal where it fits in the cover, friction keeps it from moving. Carb cleaner probably isn't the best choice for a cleaner either as most carb cleaners will breakdown gaskets and rubber seals. Non-chlorinated brake cleaner is my choice.
Great job! You made the video clear to understand! Thank you
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Can you reuse the flexplate/flywheel bolts?
Yes
Did you use new bolts for the fly wheel?
No, we used the same bolts. They are not torque to yield bolts.
How did you spray your foam insulation in your shop? Or did you pay someone to come spray it?
It was cheaper to pay a professional to spray it, so that's the route I went
I’m about to make this repair on my wife’s 2005 Tahoe 4x4 . I was under the impression some type of alignment tool was needed to center the seal perfectly and then tighten the cover
I definitely recommend using the alignment tool and I will eventually make another video showing that process
@@dudewecanfixit cool !
Do you have to drain your trans fluid to do this?
No
Just to clarify if it's a ptfe seal it goes on dry oiling or greasing will increase failure but if it's old school rubber then yes oil.
Thanks for the update!
Is the silicone a necessity to fully create the seal?
Very highly reccomended.
Why didn’t you use rtf across the bottom edge of the cover?
You can if you want, it won't hurt
Oh man. This looks so easy. But you make it look hard. I'm gonna go out tomorrow morning and knock this out in a half hour and then go upstairs and take my old lady in the crapper.
Good luck!
Hey am doing the same work now how do I set my tourc tool to the foot pound
Rotate the handle until the vertical line matches up with the foot pound number that you need
This channel is where it’s at! 🙏
You're the first person I've seen using grease to hold/lube/seal...How has this heldup overtime? I'm rebuilding an LQ4 for my DD, I wanna keep my engine bay clean as long as I can - no leaks. TIA
We’ve been getting a lot of confusion on greasing the seal. It worked for us and the truck has been running perfectly for the past 2 years lol 🤷🏽♂️ if you feel safer not using it then by all means. This is just what worked for us personally
gm SI says to use clean engine oil to lube the seal
Everyone’s been getting on us about it 😂
@@dudewecanfixit you did it correct, grease,oil its no difference. only thing is you dont have to pop the rear cover off to get the seal out. si actually says not to
That's good to know, however, we wanted to reseal the cover also.
your dog is all ears on this project must be your apprentice 😁 I like how you do your work I will sub to your channel young man .
He's my trusty sidekick!
Does the oil or coolant need to be removed to do this plate?
No
How is it good that the seal can just "pop" out when installing the cover? If its that easy to come out why couldn't it come out under operation? Does the flexplate hold it in?
Yes, the flex plate bolts on over it and holds it on. Like installing a wheel over a rotor
It was popping out because he applied grease to the inner part of the seal and rear cover. Both are to be dry 100%. Do not use grease or oil. You can apply a light amount of grease to the outer facing part of the seal once it is installed, but not the inner part or the metal of the cover. It will leak prematurely and possibly even right away.
According to GM they say to lightly grease with clean oil 🤷@@JustAGuy781
I have a? Did it stop the oil leak
Yes
Mine didn't stop
It could be leaking from the oil pressure sensor in the valley at the back of the engine. I have a video on that also for reference
Very nice video. Is this a common issue with Tahoe's? Prior to looking up your video I saw a used Tahoe online and the owner said it had this with this same issue.
Yep, very common with all vehicles when they get high mileage.
@@dudewecanfixit Got it. Well sir you made that repair look very doable. Great video
I am missing the lower screw were can i get one ?
Chevy dealership, ebay, pull a part, maybe O'Reilly's
Did you lube the seal prior to install?
I did, however, there is speculation on that. Some people are saying to install it dry
@@dudewecanfixit I'm asking because I am about to do the rear main seal on my land rover, I have an old one out which folded over on itself and tore. I can't find any information on these vehicles. Not sure if I'm supposed to lube the new seal or not. But I don't think I am. Thanks for your response!
You're welcome, definitely check out some forums on that vehicle
@@dudewecanfixit oh I spend hours reading forms and as much information as I can, not much exist. Even considered making it TH-cam channel just to cover these vehicles and repair components for normies like me looking for help
That's wild, you should start that channel! It is a lot of work though
If the bolts aren’t tightened in the proper sequence, will that cause it to leak even if the seal has been replaced?
Yes, and you may want to look up the manufacturers recommended tightening sequence.
Hello, excuse me, I already replaced it but it's throwing more oil than I threw away. What possibilities are there for me to put it wrong and how can I do it or what do you think I'll put it wrong?
That's odd, maybe the seal was faulty. There is a comment under this video about a specific way to tighten the bolts. All I can think is the seal was not seated correctly or is faulty. Did you accidentally scratch the metal surface?
You didn’t center the seal and/or tightened the two oil pan bolts first and pulled the seal off center. This video didn’t exercise the importance of those two things which are extremely important! Taking down this video and replacing it with an updated video would save hundreds of leaks people are going to create following this video!
What do u guys think a fair cost for this job would come out to on a 05 Escalade?
I think you're looking at about 10 hours of shop labor at $100 an hour and about $100 in parts. So, around a thousand bucks
I Like this information you demonstrated in video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Where can I find video on removal of transmission?
Look for the 4L60 transmission removal on my channel.
this would be like 75% easier if you just purchase the rear main seal that includes the plate.. you literally remove the old one and throw in the new one, seal and all
New plate is definitely recommended!
Thanks for that makes sense ..
What seals between the plate and oil pan, between the sillycone blobs?
Why spend 70$+? When you can spend 13$ and take 3 minutes to put in a new seal?
Silicone rtv@@petermeinert720
Eso es lo que yo llamo un mecánico responsable limpio para trabajar 1 millón de puntos para este mecánico de mi parte
Gracias!
I'm about to change the seal out myself and I've been seeing some people online saying not to lube up the seal it's supposed to go in dry does it really matter
I personally use lube on moving parts, but I believe this should actually go in dry, so put it in dry
You need to let people know the bottom two long bolts that go through the oil pan are supposed to be torqued at 106 inch lbs not 18ft lbs. which are roughly 8.8 ft lbs. A guy can break those off if you over torque them. I seen you reset your torque wrench for those….
I torqued them all the same. Can you link the instructions you are referencing?
@@dudewecanfixit The rear main seal centering kit from Mr Gasket specs out 104 inch lbs. GM specs 106 inch lbs on the bottom bolts.
You earned a sub I'm slowing working myself into this field I've always wanted to be a mechanic or rather break shit and fix it later but it always seem intimidating after watching you along with other guys like scotty and chrisfix I have the confidence to move forward with my career choice for that thank you ✊🏿✊🏿
I’m glad I could help! Let me know if there are any specific videos that you would like to see and I will try to make it happen.
@@dudewecanfixit iron sharpens iron brotha thank most definitely will
Watch power nation
My leaks too did oil pan that did not fix it. Thinks its seal
Probably so. The rear main seal is notorious for leaking
You should not lubricate the inside of the seal that rides the crank, according to the Fel-Pro instructions on-line. Other than that - very helpful.
It's been a little over two years and its driving like a beauty! Happy it was helpful for you!
@@dudewecanfixit thanks for this update! I watched several videos and lubed mine up like you did with yours and started worrying after reading the "dry install" instructions...after I installed it lol.
I'm glad everything is working well on yours!
It was shown , that grease was put on the outside and inside of the seal . But in the repair instructions you can read : "1. Lubricate the outside diameter (OD) of the oil
seal (1) with clean engine oil.
DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact
the seal surface.
2. Lubricate the rear cover oil seal bore with clean
engine oil.
DO NOT allow oil or other lubricants to contact
the crankshaft surface.
Do not lubricate the oil seal inside diameter (ID) or
the crankshaft surface"
I think if this is written three times, it should be important to installation ?
I would definitely recommend following the written instructions there
You are 100% correct. You should not apply oil or grease to the inner surface of the seal or the rear main seal cover where the seal sits in. Exactly the reason why the seal started coming back out and will fail prematurely no matter what proper bolt tightening sequence you use. And never use a flathead screwdriver to tap the seal into place. In an attempt to help people you made many mistakes that others will end up having to learn the hard way.
You should also never use a screw driver to install any type of seal. Or use a pry bar on a sealing surface. Or tighten the bolts down on the rear cover in that sequence with the oil pan either. Oh, and if you have a blind hole crankshaft flange, make sure to put sealer on the crank bolt threads! But we can all just follow this guy’s poor advice instead, bc he’s got friendly music to listen to.
Correct. That is also what my GM service manual says. Do not lubricate crankshaft or inside diameter of the seal.
Been watching this series of videos 👍🏼. This helped me a lot, very clear explained
Thanks! I’m glad we were helpful
never use chisel to set the oil seal, it will damage the oil seal
Thanks for the advice
Right use a brass rod, go evenly around till it seats. And don't fo the screwdriver either, probably worse than the round nose chisel.
It "WAS" a chisel until he clearly stated and showed that the tip of the tool was rounded out. He repurposed it.
Without Shellac?
Can you send me a link to a can of shellac?
I have personally never seen it, I'm curious if it actually exists
The 2 bolts going thur the bottom of the oil pan the long ones are NOT torqued to 15 ft lbs if you try youll snap em off
What is the torque spec?
AWESOME VIDEO, I HAVE A 2004 YUKON 4.8 L GOING TO REPLACE MY REAR MAIN SEAL. I HOPE IT'S AS EASY AS YOURS.
The seal is easy, removing the transmission is a job!
Did it work putting in the seal like that ? Not trying to be mean just asking ... I seen another vid where they line up the cover then put the seal ...
Yeah, it worked out fine. The seal actually pushed loose while installing, so it is not really a compression fit like I'm used to.
Hell I like to move forward but I can't get my harmonic balancer off it's frozen on it
What does that have to do with the rear main seal?
What would a shop charge for this service?
I'm not sure, but I imagine around $1000
Awesome video. Clear and very well made and narrated. Thanks.
I have a 6sp 1999 Camaro ss that got a new tranny in 2016. I developed a slow leak and it might be the main seal unfortunately the mechanic I used sold his business lock, stock and barrel to CVS. I can't do the work myself if it does turn out to be the main seal but at least your video gave me a good idea of what's involved and what I may need to pay without getting ripped off.
That is unfortunate, but I'm glad I could be a good resource for you!
So you dont have to pull the whole engine out for this to be done?
No, you don’t.
But you do need to unbolt the transmission and either slide the transmission rearward out of your way, or remove it completely.
For me, personally, I remove it completely because since it’s already unbolted, removing it gives me a whole lot more room to work in.
Agreed, getting it out of the way makes for a better working environment
Perfect video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
If you were just going to fix a rear main seal because of an oil leak, how much on average should that cost someone at an auto mechanic shop?
The labor should be around $700.
The parts are less than $50.
So, expect between $700 - $900 for the job.
Where do you stay I’m in Maryland I’m getting quoted 1600
Louisiana. I'd get a couple more quotes if I were you
mechanic says ill need a new engine because the leaking oil means the engine is already worn
That absolutely does not make sense. Get a second opinion
Great video! Very informative to viewers. Keep em coming!
Thanks!
Did you ever hear of a rear main seal installer bub .
Yep, it's an alignment tool.
What about the 4.3?
I'm not sure, I have not replaced a rear main seal on a 4.3.
You don't lube the crank surface with a bit of oil to aid in the seal sliding on?
Thats what I've been told.
Great presentation. Thank you !!
You are welcome!
The two bolts that come up from The oil pan are where alot of people make the biggest mistake..these tend to be the first two people tighten first pulling the rear main seal cover down and warp the seal without knowing and continue to have a oil leak so they do the oil pan gasket and still have oil leak and get frustrated because the leak isn't fixed...alot figure since new seals and gasket they aren't the failure point when it was the install that was the problem....I've seen it and known some who have sunk thousands I've also managed to find a few people sell the vechicle dirt cheap because of this...
Good information to know. Thanks for sharing.
If you think that those 2 bolts tightened to 106in lbs is going to pull down on a plate that is bolted down with 12 bolts to the block you are out of your mind.
@@upnorth5465 he said "first 2(bolts) people tend to tighten"
@@upnorth5465 if you tighten those two bolts while the twelve are loose what you reckon happens? If ya really wanna show off your smarts try stepping up your reading comprehension skills first, dipshitt...... 🤡🤡🤡
@@trailerparkcryptoking5213 I'm talking about the 12 bolts that are clamping the rear cover to the back of the engine..... Not the remaining bolts on the oil pan, dip shit. The force of the 2 long bolts at 105in lbs that thread into that cover has 0 effect on the 12 rear cover bolts torqued to 22 ft lbs holding it in place. But If you knew how an ls engine was put together I wouldn't have to explain this to you would I?
Bro, seasoned mechanic here….as in 40 plus years! (So what, right?) I have to pull my tranny out for the 3rd time because of an oil leak off of the driver’s side. I torqued all the bolts, did my due diligence, and yet….2 weeks later I have a leak off the same side.
I replaced barbell oil diverter because the old one was leaking, at that time, installed new rear main, and rear main plate gasket. Still? Leaks! Today I came out to my truck and underneath looked like a crime scene!!😂😂😂 Maybe I have a cracked rear main plate? Your advice is warranted, please.
Wow, that is wild!
Are you able to determine where the oil is coming from?
If its high up, dripping down the transmission, It could be the oil pressure sensor in the back of the valley,
@@dudewecanfixit Yup! Finally found the leak! Took everything apart the third time, and BOOM!!! It was the oil sending unit! All good now
Awesome! Glad you got it fixed!
@@dudewecanfixit I appreciate your advice as well. I spent 26 years in the Army, got out almost 2 years ago, and found out just how far behind the automotive learning curve I was! Lol!!! Yep, been at this for 40 years, but not full time. Amazing how things have changed!
Very true, things are constantly changing. I prefer 90s and early 2000s vehicles.
The ones they are making now require $10k worth of computers and yearly subscriptions just to change and relearn parts.
How much would it cost for a job like this to be done
Depends on your area, probably around $1,000
Very thorough my brother thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you for a Great Video , I just have to fi d the one that includes backing the transmission up some.
Check out my 4L60 removal video!
Thank you. I didn't even know what a rear main seal is. Defiantly gonna leave this one to a pro with the proper equipment. I won't be able to schedule it until a month or so from now. It's not leaking a whole lot just a few drops. Parking over some cardboard for now. I am going on a 1,000 mi. road trip. Will the leakage get worse and should I be worried?
It will get worse over time, but it’s usually pretty gradual. Just check your oil level often and you’ll get a feel for how fast the leak is.
Your my hero. My Hummer loves you
Glad to hear it!
We try to keep the oil inside the engine instead of outside, lol.
How much does it cost to replace the seal in that truck?
Doing the labor yourself or sending it to a shop?
Isn't there a seal that doesn't have the rubber coating on it? It looks like it's too lose
I haven't seen a seal without rubber on it.
correct me if I'm wrong but you didn't center the rear main cover.
I did not use the recommended centering tool.
I torqued the flex plate to 74 lbs like you said and not my camshaft won't turn. Now I have to drop the transmission again smh
That is interesting, let us know what conclusion you come to
@@dudewecanfixit I re-removed the transmission and unbolted the flex plate and was able to manually turn the crankshaft pulley again which means that the flexplate bolts were too tight. I reinstalled the flexplate and hit each bolt once with the impact and I didn't have the same issue. I've seen various torque specs for the flexplate bolts and even called the dealer but they were no help. I'm not saying the 74 lbs is technically wrong, but if anyone is having this issue this is how to solve it.
@@dudewecanfixit Btw, in my original comment I called it a camshaft 🙄 I meant crankshaft. It had been a long day lol
Thanks for the info! I'm sure it will help someone
What's the cost for that replacement ?
It varies a lot. Get a few quotes.
I would imagine between $700 - $1200 at a shop
You made that look easy.
I try
I wonder if he got a leak because he didn't use the special tool to align the seal ? After you installed the cover plate first then you install seal. But you need to use the alignment tool .. or you could get to do the job again very soon. Good luck to all
Still no leaks, but definitely use the tool if you have it
Good job..thks for the reply
When you buy the seal from the dealer, they recommend you buy the cover with the seal in it. You also get a new gaskets and bolts. So, don't think you can use an alignment tool. I tighten the plate before I tighten the pan bolts. I'm getting ready to do another rear main on a 5.3 and I'm reading about problems with the engine block leaking, there is a service bulletin explaining how to fix it.
@@markkossick1347 if you are not confident in just installing the seal into the old cover then yes anyone should buy the rear cover with the seal already in it. It is always best to go that route, especially for most of the folks that have commented on here that are ignorant to mechanics or rather the LS engine. Most thought this was the best video and it was highly misguided and will lead others to follow his lead and end up hating life because they will have leaks prematurely if not right away galloping this video. I know he meant well, but still....
@@JustAGuy781 he should take it down and modify the video!
Awesome i have a Blazer 4×4 and will be changing tranny same transmission! From your trans video !
That's great! I wish you the best! Please subscribe to our channel and share it with friends
I'm thouroughly confewsed, was that a "Flex-Platé" or
a "Fly-Wheel" He took off. If a Fly-Wheel why she
referring to an 4l60e ????
It's a flex plate. Automatic transmission
@@dudewecanfixit Excellent Video, thanks for that, I think these steps would apply to my V6 Ecotec Commodore V.S.
What Confused me was that at Several points throughout the Video ( 0:47, 9:18, 9:27, 10:18) The Flex-Plate was always referred to as a "Fly-Wheel".
Other than that Great Video Series and I Learning a Lot, Thanks 👦🏿👍🏾
That was definitely an error in my dialogue. However, this would be the same basic procedure even if it was a manual transmission with a flywheel.
Great video. Btw grease rots the rubber seal😬
Good to know. We are thinking about a revised video
Will bacon grease work😂 just got done cooking breakfast
Lol, tasty but not recommended
Good job man, BUT, the 2 long bolts from pan to seal do NOT get tightened to 18 foot lbs, it's 106 in lbs. You got lucky not to break them. Plus, it's good to run a bead of sealer across the entire bottom of the seal plate and also all the bolts, except for the 2 long bolts, to ensure no leaking anywhere.
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll keep that in mind in the future
I didn't use the alignment tool so I'm doing it again , what should I do along the bottom of the bracket to insure no leaks??
@@knifethrower9733 Just run a bead of sealer across the bottom of the rear main cover and the bolts, and the corners of the oil pan of course. And tighten the bolts slightly one at a time until you have them spec. THEN DO you bottom bolts (the long ones) because if you install the long ones while you are tightening the little ones, you are going to pull the cover down on top of the crank flange. You want to let the cover center itself on the flange first with the little bolts!
@@luamayav cheers I did that last time I just wanted to make sure 👍
@@knifethrower9733 That didn't work?
Great video I just subscribed. That's what I'm going to replace on my 2000 chevy. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the sub! I hope this video helps you and we have many more that are applicable to your Chevy.
Man yesterday I did my rear main seal and it was all bad , I turned on my car and everything spilled out 😢, I’m so pissed , it’s my first time doing it , but damn , I now I needa take everything apart again 😑
Dang, that's unfortunate. I wonder what went wrong?