The general wisdom in the hi-fi home theatre world is to lowpass the subwoofer at 80Hz and the high-pass the midrange at 80Hz also. This holds true even for giant tower speakers that can easily push out super low frequencies. The low/high pass filter is not a hard cut, but a smooth rolloff that starts at the number you set. Good vid and at 5’8” I think I’m adding another project to the list 😊
Nice video, and thank you for sharing your install. Good info! Pro tip - Anyone hoping to duplicate your setup should install an inline fuse on that red power wire. It should as close to the battery connection as possible. The reason is, if you get in a little fender bender and that red wire gets pinched, it will create a short and your car could burst into flames.
If you look at 12:42 with the red wire on the seat, it does have an inline fuse holder however, it should be installed close to the battery as any chaffing under the hood would remain un-fused straight to the battery and could cause a fire if it did short out. Maybe some wire protect also.
Stumbled upon your channel this AM with this video. I am not a Miata owner, but fellow small convertible owner (Honda S2000). Your project is exactly my next step in my S2k as far as audio. Been looking at the Kicker Hideaway 10” for my setup. I’ll have to check out the Atoto unit. Your comment regarding the difference in sound with the top up and down is nothing new. With the top up, the sound waves bounce off the windows, roof, doors, etc. and can dramatically affect the sound all together. With the top open, the sound just escapes out and will have a completely different characteristic. So it’s not an EQ, Amp, etc. setting, just physics. Very rare chance that Bose put in a mic to automatically change EQ settings when the top is up and down. Anyway, glad to see a fellow Coloradoan on TH-cam. Subscribed…
I’d love to meet and see the S2K! Your comments are valid, except there is actually a switch happening in the amp that adjusts the EQ and potentially variable gain with top latched vs. unlatched. I’ll have to show you, it’s interesting!
@@FlywheelFilmsI just googled and it does appear they implemented a different EQ curve for top up and top down. I also would have expected that to have been lost with the replacement of the head unit. I’m in the southern burbs of Denver. Looks like you’re up North. I do tend to hit a few of the Adams Cars and Coffee’s up there, Lafayette one especially.
Hey the positive wire doesnt have a fuse close to the battery on it which if you have a short, like right next to the amp where i also didnt see shrink wrap so electrical tape maybe? Is ok but no fuse is not ok... just fyi! The fuse on the amp will not save you because the short would be before the fuse
Between the lack of battery fuse and what looked like an uninsulated join behind the seat I was getting a bit of anxiety. Really hope he goes back and puts even a blade fuse, even if not an anl.
I'm gonna do a full Bosectomy on mine as soon as I get some dry weather... I want to add a sub as well, but I might do mine in the trunk. The way to stop the top down behavior versus top up is basically to replace the Bose amp. Be careful if you want to screw the sub down to that rear wall, as the gas tank is directly behind there. BTW, in a NC any temperature is top-down weather 💯
Hi from the UK . Brilliant TH-cam looking through all your TH-cam on the NC , Just got my car ( pick it up next week (31/10/2024)) and looking forward to doing some upgrades that You have done ,so thanks my friend.
I had to upgrade my system as soon as I got it because the PO had a botched job with a flakey radio. They had 6 inch round in the doors with no adapter plate so the front was exposed to the back and they sounded terrible. I replaced those with some proper sized oval speakers to properly fill the hole but I still had these fairly nice 6 inch rounds so I converted the cubbies behind the seats into speaker enclosures and mounted them there. They sound pretty good except for the rattling of the plastic as they shake. I may have to look into a sub like this but I have no room behind or under the seats ( replaced ) so maybe up under the passenger side dash as mentioned, or in the trunk. Thanks for all your videos.
I was in the same boat. Upgraded the head unit and the sound improved which naturally forced me to buy some Alpine S series….. but now I’m yearning for the BASS🔊🔊
Hard surfaces like your roof will reflect and amplify certain frequencies, driving will also introduce vibrations that will impact your stereo. Hard surfaces make highs tinny and the vibration in my NC tends to wash out mids. To balance it out play "pink noise" through your speakers and get an app on your phone that measures SPL (sound pressure levels). Adjust the freq response on your Sony head unit until all frequencies have roughly the same SPL, do this while stationary, roof on/off, you wont be able to get it perfect but try to balance both. I like a flat frequency response but most prefer a slightly V shaped response with peaks around 50hz and 3khz (guitars/vocals) or 8khz (electronic) as it makes the music a bit more punchy. Mic quality matters here, your phone might be rubbish at picking up certain frequencies, so worth checking out what your "neutral" SPL looks like against a known good, balanced sound system you enjoy.
I'm planning on 3D scanning the area behind the rear bulkhead and having hexibase design a nice pair of 3d printed enclosures for a couple of 6.5s that can get down to 30hz. That's going to have to come probably next year, since this year's goals are the FM Fox suspension and turbo. I might go ahead and pick up an extra set of A pillar trim panels and start working on getting some tweeters mounted in them, and pick up some 6.5 woofers for the doors, possibly replace the 3.5s in the doors with some 3.5" mid woofers, but all of that is only going to happen after the suspension and turbo, (and some other non-miata projects).
I need to up the sound system in my NC3 club also, my old Na miata had the sub in the back seat and speaker in the head rest, I'd love to put a sub or and bass shaker in each seat andget to 2023 sound standard and 8-10 speaker system and amp, as the head unit is after marker but rocking CD player , drive it top down at 80-100mph still get awesome sound
Awesome , I have looked at a few other subs but this one seems like my best option and at a great price. I have already replaced my factory speakers and head unit.
I fit one of these to mine was a great upgrade 😁 I put mine on the wood shelf I made under my gc fab roll bar. You definitely feel it more behind the seat.
Thanks for posting this install video. I've been contemplating putting one of these subs in my PRHT for years. Miatas are not good cars to get great sound in because of road noise and lack of insulation in the cockpit. This sub looks like a knock off of the JBL Nano that I was going to go with. I wouldn't have a clue as how to make adjustments for sound after I installed it!
I think the sound changing with the roof closed has to do with the change in acoustics in the car. Speaker frequencies have more things to bounce off of when it’s closed version open air.
Not in this case; the NC (and I think ND) have an actual switch that is triggered to completely change the EQ of the audio based on the top latch being opened or closed
I don’t think it will, at least not my NC2 GT/SE seats and the adjustment mechanisms taking space under the seat. But I may investigate if I go aftermarket on some seats.
I’m guessing it’d be very challenging to properly adapt/interface and it wouldn’t fit well in any space I can think of. Probably best to do a better special-made sub enclosure. I might go that route eventually.
I was actually in the same situation some time ago. Personally I've went with similar style sub, placed it behind passenger seat and however stupid it sounds, used command strips to hold it to the plastic wall, just above the floor, so it could be parallel to the seat and the wall, which i think gives a bit more room to slide the seat back, + it doesn't bounce around when the seat is not fully back haha
Hey, just something to keep an eye on, the seatbelt goes right behind the plastic "wall" behind the sub. I had a tiny bit bigger powered sub behind there and with my seat pushing against the sub, which subsequently pushed against the seat belt in behind where it mounts and made it hard to go in and out. I tried cleaning the belts and was starting to take the whole thing apart when I realized it was just the sub pushing up against the seat belt retractor. I moved the sub to the little indented spot in the trunk and everything's been great. I wish the atoto would've been around a year or two ago lol. I Have the atoto head unit too!! Anyways long comment sorry. Just wanted to throw a caution if your seat belt starts not going in and out!
What sub is it you’re installing ? I’m thinking about the pioneer TS-WX1010A 10 inch not sure it will fit under the seat instead of behind the seat. Trunk out of question for me thanks
Hey I really love your Miata - its one of the coolest I've seen. I just got a NC but my headlights point straight at the ground and only go out 20 feet if that at night, plus one side is 1-2 feet lower. Do you know how I could adjust the low beams higher so that I can see down the road? lol
Just found your page. I have a 2010 NC and need more bass. I have had a system set up before where my bl sub was in my trunk and i wasn't impressed. Its a 500 dollar speaker but what's the point of spending that's you cabt hear it the way its suppose to be heard? I just subscribed to your channel. When you said "when i review real cars..." I laughed out loud. Could you do 2 subs and do you think it would make that big of a difference? I'm just hesitant on downgrading from a JL Audio to this. I have a Sony head unit. Also where did you get your e brake cover? Looks nice!
Do you have the small speakers between the seats? Are they stock? Did the sound from them improve after the stereo install? I've heard that the factory radio only sends higher frequencies to those rear speakers.
I do have the small speakers, and they're stock. The sound didn't change very noticeable. They do so little. I'd love to upgrade eventually but they are notoriously hard to deal with!
@@FlywheelFilms thanks for replying! Love your videos. And your car. I love my silver NC1, but if could replace it, i think the white club/black prht looks best
I agree about the red wire fuse and put it only 1 inch from the battery post because if that red wire were to ever short out, you would have an instant fire and a 40 amp fuse for that red line next to the battery is close as you can get it to the post! really nice video. I’ve done all the same things you’ve done to convertible Celica and five wrangler jeeps like yours too. Lol the subwoofer is so important for a full sound. That’s definitely appreciated in a sports car and also with your situation I would never mount that subwoofer because it’s so nice to be able to move it from seat to seat, and even into the trunk if you had to, but you’d have to be careful with the wiring to the trunk of that retractable hardtop
Your channel is a gift to NC owners. Your organization and documentation, though, is a fucking godsend.
RadzioFlatout too ,but its leaded im Polish Lang and focuses on making nc rally car
The general wisdom in the hi-fi home theatre world is to lowpass the subwoofer at 80Hz and the high-pass the midrange at 80Hz also. This holds true even for giant tower speakers that can easily push out super low frequencies.
The low/high pass filter is not a hard cut, but a smooth rolloff that starts at the number you set.
Good vid and at 5’8” I think I’m adding another project to the list 😊
Nice video, and thank you for sharing your install. Good info!
Pro tip - Anyone hoping to duplicate your setup should install an inline fuse on that red power wire. It should as close to the battery connection as possible. The reason is, if you get in a little fender bender and that red wire gets pinched, it will create a short and your car could burst into flames.
If you look at 12:42 with the red wire on the seat, it does have an inline fuse holder however, it should be installed close to the battery as any chaffing under the hood would remain un-fused straight to the battery and could cause a fire if it did short out. Maybe some wire protect also.
Stumbled upon your channel this AM with this video. I am not a Miata owner, but fellow small convertible owner (Honda S2000). Your project is exactly my next step in my S2k as far as audio. Been looking at the Kicker Hideaway 10” for my setup. I’ll have to check out the Atoto unit.
Your comment regarding the difference in sound with the top up and down is nothing new. With the top up, the sound waves bounce off the windows, roof, doors, etc. and can dramatically affect the sound all together. With the top open, the sound just escapes out and will have a completely different characteristic. So it’s not an EQ, Amp, etc. setting, just physics. Very rare chance that Bose put in a mic to automatically change EQ settings when the top is up and down.
Anyway, glad to see a fellow Coloradoan on TH-cam. Subscribed…
I’d love to meet and see the S2K! Your comments are valid, except there is actually a switch happening in the amp that adjusts the EQ and potentially variable gain with top latched vs. unlatched. I’ll have to show you, it’s interesting!
@@FlywheelFilmsI just googled and it does appear they implemented a different EQ curve for top up and top down. I also would have expected that to have been lost with the replacement of the head unit.
I’m in the southern burbs of Denver. Looks like you’re up North. I do tend to hit a few of the Adams Cars and Coffee’s up there, Lafayette one especially.
Hey the positive wire doesnt have a fuse close to the battery on it which if you have a short, like right next to the amp where i also didnt see shrink wrap so electrical tape maybe? Is ok but no fuse is not ok... just fyi! The fuse on the amp will not save you because the short would be before the fuse
Between the lack of battery fuse and what looked like an uninsulated join behind the seat I was getting a bit of anxiety. Really hope he goes back and puts even a blade fuse, even if not an anl.
That custom steering wheel button! Where'd it come from and how did you remove the old button? I've wanted a custom button for years
This is exactly the video i needed i wanna upgrade my speakers in my NC
I'm gonna do a full Bosectomy on mine as soon as I get some dry weather... I want to add a sub as well, but I might do mine in the trunk. The way to stop the top down behavior versus top up is basically to replace the Bose amp. Be careful if you want to screw the sub down to that rear wall, as the gas tank is directly behind there. BTW, in a NC any temperature is top-down weather 💯
Hi from the UK . Brilliant TH-cam looking through all your TH-cam on the NC ,
Just got my car ( pick it up next week (31/10/2024)) and looking forward to doing some upgrades that
You have done ,so thanks my friend.
I got myself a 10 inch sub that I’ve been waiting to put in till I relocate my battery to the trunk in my nc. This is motivation to get this job done.
I had to upgrade my system as soon as I got it because the PO had a botched job with a flakey radio. They had 6 inch round in the doors with no adapter plate so the front was exposed to the back and they sounded terrible. I replaced those with some proper sized oval speakers to properly fill the hole but I still had these fairly nice 6 inch rounds so I converted the cubbies behind the seats into speaker enclosures and mounted them there. They sound pretty good except for the rattling of the plastic as they shake. I may have to look into a sub like this but I have no room behind or under the seats ( replaced ) so maybe up under the passenger side dash as mentioned, or in the trunk. Thanks for all your videos.
Added an Atoto S8 to my 2010 NC. It is an amazing upgrade. If you update Ghosty with one, will you be updating or adding other accessories?
I would love to do a new reverse camera alongside it!
I was in the same boat. Upgraded the head unit and the sound improved which naturally forced me to buy some Alpine S series….. but now I’m yearning for the BASS🔊🔊
Hard surfaces like your roof will reflect and amplify certain frequencies, driving will also introduce vibrations that will impact your stereo. Hard surfaces make highs tinny and the vibration in my NC tends to wash out mids. To balance it out play "pink noise" through your speakers and get an app on your phone that measures SPL (sound pressure levels). Adjust the freq response on your Sony head unit until all frequencies have roughly the same SPL, do this while stationary, roof on/off, you wont be able to get it perfect but try to balance both. I like a flat frequency response but most prefer a slightly V shaped response with peaks around 50hz and 3khz (guitars/vocals) or 8khz (electronic) as it makes the music a bit more punchy. Mic quality matters here, your phone might be rubbish at picking up certain frequencies, so worth checking out what your "neutral" SPL looks like against a known good, balanced sound system you enjoy.
I'm planning on 3D scanning the area behind the rear bulkhead and having hexibase design a nice pair of 3d printed enclosures for a couple of 6.5s that can get down to 30hz. That's going to have to come probably next year, since this year's goals are the FM Fox suspension and turbo. I might go ahead and pick up an extra set of A pillar trim panels and start working on getting some tweeters mounted in them, and pick up some 6.5 woofers for the doors, possibly replace the 3.5s in the doors with some 3.5" mid woofers, but all of that is only going to happen after the suspension and turbo, (and some other non-miata projects).
Keep me posted for sure!
Tip for driving in snow - use the "open" settings on the HVAC, set the fan speed to max, and put the roof down. Great fun.
I need to up the sound system in my NC3 club also, my old Na miata had the sub in the back seat and speaker in the head rest, I'd love to put a sub or and bass shaker in each seat andget to 2023 sound standard and 8-10 speaker system and amp, as the head unit is after marker but rocking CD player , drive it top down at 80-100mph still get awesome sound
Awesome , I have looked at a few other subs but this one seems like my best option and at a great price. I have already replaced my factory speakers and head unit.
Please do a video if you find a solution for the sound change with the open top
I fit one of these to mine was a great upgrade 😁 I put mine on the wood shelf I made under my gc fab roll bar. You definitely feel it more behind the seat.
where did you get the custom steering wheel emblem??
Very nice. Curious what phone mount is that? Seems like a good place for it
Your friend said he could feel it. Did it cost and seat room ?
I found your Channel a week ago. And Mate my wallet is crying. But yes thanks for this❤ Greetings from Germany
Thanks for posting this install video. I've been contemplating putting one of these subs in my PRHT for years. Miatas are not good cars to get great sound in because of road noise and lack of insulation in the cockpit. This sub looks like a knock off of the JBL Nano that I was going to go with. I wouldn't have a clue as how to make adjustments for sound after I installed it!
I think the sound changing with the roof closed has to do with the change in acoustics in the car. Speaker frequencies have more things to bounce off of when it’s closed version open air.
Not in this case; the NC (and I think ND) have an actual switch that is triggered to completely change the EQ of the audio based on the top latch being opened or closed
Thanks for the video. Will it fit not under the passenger seat?
I don’t think it will, at least not my NC2 GT/SE seats and the adjustment mechanisms taking space under the seat. But I may investigate if I go aftermarket on some seats.
Would the Bose sub from a 2010 Mazda 6 which drops into the spare wheel fit somewhere in there?
I’m guessing it’d be very challenging to properly adapt/interface and it wouldn’t fit well in any space I can think of. Probably best to do a better special-made sub enclosure. I might go that route eventually.
I was actually in the same situation some time ago. Personally I've went with similar style sub, placed it behind passenger seat and however stupid it sounds, used command strips to hold it to the plastic wall, just above the floor, so it could be parallel to the seat and the wall, which i think gives a bit more room to slide the seat back, + it doesn't bounce around when the seat is not fully back haha
sharpie the led light on the gain knob
Thanks Jordan. Quick question, the forward facing camera you had mounted on the wind deflector while driving around.....what was that? Cheers
GoPro Hero 9!
I used kill mat works for me
Hey, just something to keep an eye on, the seatbelt goes right behind the plastic "wall" behind the sub. I had a tiny bit bigger powered sub behind there and with my seat pushing against the sub, which subsequently pushed against the seat belt in behind where it mounts and made it hard to go in and out. I tried cleaning the belts and was starting to take the whole thing apart when I realized it was just the sub pushing up against the seat belt retractor. I moved the sub to the little indented spot in the trunk and everything's been great. I wish the atoto would've been around a year or two ago lol. I Have the atoto head unit too!! Anyways long comment sorry. Just wanted to throw a caution if your seat belt starts not going in and out!
Way cool! I'm content with the 2012 NC factory Bose. This is an option. Thank you
I addressed the base, and kept the Bose. I do want a head unit with wireless Android auto though.
big balls to you for driving in the snow, i have a na2 and NC3, and I spun 380 in the na and never again did I drive that in the snow
What sub is it you’re installing ? I’m thinking about the pioneer TS-WX1010A 10 inch not sure it will fit under the seat instead of behind the seat. Trunk out of question for me thanks
“Congratulations, you’ve turned a car I can’t fit in, into a car I can’t fit in with 120dB.” Sincerely, Tall People.
You’re maybe 3 inches taller than me. But 3 inches is a LOT so I understand your concern.
Thanks for a great vid. Nice job explaining.
Awesome, ive had the same setup for awhile. Ithink all nc owners should do this if they want more bass
Hey I really love your Miata - its one of the coolest I've seen. I just got a NC but my headlights point straight at the ground and only go out 20 feet if that at night, plus one side is 1-2 feet lower. Do you know how I could adjust the low beams higher so that I can see down the road? lol
i wonder if this would work in my ND? By the way you have one of the cleanest interior set ups I seen so far in a Miata.
If you haven’t get, get a metal coolant overflow tank. They’re known to explode
Just found your page. I have a 2010 NC and need more bass. I have had a system set up before where my bl sub was in my trunk and i wasn't impressed. Its a 500 dollar speaker but what's the point of spending that's you cabt hear it the way its suppose to be heard? I just subscribed to your channel. When you said "when i review real cars..." I laughed out loud. Could you do 2 subs and do you think it would make that big of a difference? I'm just hesitant on downgrading from a JL Audio to this. I have a Sony head unit. Also where did you get your e brake cover? Looks nice!
Love the hat! Not sure about a booming bottom!?
You ran the wire backwards bro. Fuse as close to battery as possible.
There’s a pretty big wasted space in the bulkhead behind the plastic, you could probably place a sub there as well.
Yup, agreed. Plenty of room. I have some carpet in there for sound deadening but could easily fit a sub in there.
We definitely need how you set up your cameras please :-) I know I keep asking, sorry.
I will push this near the top of my list for the coming month of content! I’d love to share what I’ve learned.
@@FlywheelFilms that would be amazing. I just never know where to place my camera.
10:30 you’re welcome
Add another one to the passenger side.
Where did you get that shift pattern decal on the power point cover??
I believe it came with a prior shift knob... can't remember! Probably plentiful options on Etsy, etc.
Do you have the small speakers between the seats? Are they stock? Did the sound from them improve after the stereo install? I've heard that the factory radio only sends higher frequencies to those rear speakers.
I do have the small speakers, and they're stock. The sound didn't change very noticeable. They do so little. I'd love to upgrade eventually but they are notoriously hard to deal with!
@@FlywheelFilms thanks for replying! Love your videos. And your car. I love my silver NC1, but if could replace it, i think the white club/black prht looks best
@@craigschultz4 thank you! If you ever want to sell your NC1, Austin (on this channel) wants to buy it. :)
I'd do this on the passenger side imo, and I'd get a fuse for the red line to the battery asap
I agree about the red wire fuse and put it only 1 inch from the battery post because if that red wire were to ever short out, you would have an instant fire and a 40 amp fuse for that red line next to the battery is close as you can get it to the post! really nice video. I’ve done all the same things you’ve done to convertible Celica and five wrangler jeeps like yours too. Lol the subwoofer is so important for a full sound. That’s definitely appreciated in a sports car and also with your situation I would never mount that subwoofer because it’s so nice to be able to move it from seat to seat, and even into the trunk if you had to, but you’d have to be careful with the wiring to the trunk of that retractable hardtop