I have watched thousands of videos on all different topics of builds and you are the most thorough, detailed description showing the correct way to build anything in a clean area that I have ever seen. Plus you never fail to mention girl's as well as boys. 100% professional in every aspect and you are my #1 go to on TH-cam for motorcycle or atv repair. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You have made me a smarter person every time I watch. Thanks Billie 😊
We had a swingarm bolt that was so corroded we broke multiple ratchets and breaker bars. We put heat from hell onto it with the torch and When we thought we finally got it loose we realized we were actually just turning the bushing and bolt together. Ended up having to put a saws all to the case just to split it. Absolute nightmare! I think this was on a XR
The stuck rusted corroded dowel pin is a major pain but if your patient and apply heat/penetrating fluid it will come loose without prying on the inside sealing surface. I used 1/2 and 1/2 acetone and ATF fluid for the penetrating fluid. After it soaked overnight, the cases finally came apart but it was tight!
They're not easy. We just recently tore down a YXZ1000 motor and used a dowel puller tool. Yes, you might not need it that often, but it's a nifty little item: www.partzilla.com/catalog-product/collection/3C006DD413A1919AF9903220148D53D36FD80100/6EE72AD512C7AABDE1F5D6D83A9F5F73F6D021B5
If you have trouble removing a hollow dowel turn a bit of round bar a snug sliding fit in the dowel before you take the vice grips out of your butchers apron😅
I had a right side cover dowel stick like that. To remove it once the cover was on the bench, I used PB Blaster and eventually got it out. The other one was no problem. Go figure??? Mine was on the front too.
I've got a question about the left crank case. Right under the flywheel, there is a small J looking piece sticking from the case. As far as I'm aware, nothing bolts or hooks to it. If this piece was sheered off, would the engine still function properly with no issues?
thank you for the build i would like to ask if i want to use gear de-drive is it possible for my project ratio 1:1.8 the are ready made for one cylinder "example ace aviation "
Took my 450x apart for a new timing chain, but then I realized I had end play in my crank bearing (stator side). So I ordered a new crank and bearings, installed everything and I still have the same end play! Is this normal on these roller style bearings? How much is to much? 2, 3 or 4 thousandths, and what part of the shaft are you supposed to measure it from? I'm wondering if the play is necessary for proper oil flow within the bearing.
Hey John! I’m currently in the process of doing a complete rebuild of my 05 450x, would these videos help me get her rebuilt again or do I need one for a 450x
Awesome couple of indepth videos i watched both but why so much red loctite use, red loctite is perminant as in never to be removed, blue loctite is removable and designed for later tear downs and rebuilds The new owner of this crf450 will be in so much disbelief in 4 or 5 years time when they need to rebuild this engine and every red loctite bolt head strips
I have watched thousands of videos on all different topics of builds and you are the most thorough, detailed description showing the correct way to build anything in a clean area that I have ever seen. Plus you never fail to mention girl's as well as boys. 100% professional in every aspect and you are my #1 go to on TH-cam for motorcycle or atv repair.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You have made me a smarter person every time I watch.
Thanks Billie 😊
That's awesome Billie! Glad you're getting some good stuff out of the videos!
I love seeing you in the vids dude your rock..
Tbh I'd like to see first startups on the engine builds you do..
Great job on the deals by the way
We had a swingarm bolt that was so corroded we broke multiple ratchets and breaker bars. We put heat from hell onto it with the torch and When we thought we finally got it loose we realized we were actually just turning the bushing and bolt together. Ended up having to put a saws all to the case just to split it. Absolute nightmare! I think this was on a XR
The stuck rusted corroded dowel pin is a major pain but if your patient and apply heat/penetrating fluid it will come loose without prying on the inside sealing surface. I used 1/2 and 1/2 acetone and ATF fluid for the penetrating fluid. After it soaked overnight, the cases finally came apart but it was tight!
They're not easy. We just recently tore down a YXZ1000 motor and used a dowel puller tool. Yes, you might not need it that often, but it's a nifty little item: www.partzilla.com/catalog-product/collection/3C006DD413A1919AF9903220148D53D36FD80100/6EE72AD512C7AABDE1F5D6D83A9F5F73F6D021B5
If you have trouble removing a hollow dowel turn a bit of round bar a snug sliding fit in the dowel before you take the vice grips out of your butchers apron😅
Great job brother!
Initially you can cut the dowels in in two. Then penetrating oil
I had the same issue with the dowel pin on my 2010 when I went to split the cases. It was a pain!
I had a right side cover dowel stick like that. To remove it once the cover was on the bench, I used PB Blaster and eventually got it out. The other one was no problem. Go figure??? Mine was on the front too.
This video really helped me! Thank you! You got a New sub!
Thanks for the sub!
I've got a question about the left crank case. Right under the flywheel, there is a small J looking piece sticking from the case. As far as I'm aware, nothing bolts or hooks to it. If this piece was sheered off, would the engine still function properly with no issues?
Nice job John, thankyou
I had to shorten my pin near shift drum case wouldn’t close it has a different year case on left side . Have you ever did that before ?
thank you for the build i would like to ask if i want to use gear de-drive is it possible for my project ratio 1:1.8 the are ready made for one cylinder "example ace aviation "
Took my 450x apart for a new timing chain, but then I realized I had end play in my crank bearing (stator side). So I ordered a new crank and bearings, installed everything and I still have the same end play! Is this normal on these roller style bearings? How much is to much? 2, 3 or 4 thousandths, and what part of the shaft are you supposed to measure it from? I'm wondering if the play is necessary for proper oil flow within the bearing.
Love the vids i could have used you in my garage a few times
Mr. John , please give me an estimate on how much it would cost to rebuild the bottom end , entirely ?
Thank you
I would also like to know.
hey guys, I love your videos. I have a question, will a 2008 crf450 cylinder head fit a 2004 crf450R ?
Awesome!
Hey John! I’m currently in the process of doing a complete rebuild of my 05 450x, would these videos help me get her rebuilt again or do I need one for a 450x
Hi I've got a CRF 450 x where can I get an garage buddy a garage buddy I'm from South Africa and what is gonna cost me Easter cost for it
Break Free on those dowels. PB blaster, probably break him free in about 10 or 20 minutes
Saludos desde Lima Perú
i need to get ahold of someone i was picked as winner
Awesome couple of indepth videos i watched both but why so much red loctite use, red loctite is perminant as in never to be removed, blue loctite is removable and designed for later tear downs and rebuilds
The new owner of this crf450 will be in so much disbelief in 4 or 5 years time when they need to rebuild this engine and every red loctite bolt head strips
Is axial play in the crankshaft bearing normal?
Bom de mais🇧🇷🙋🇧🇷🇺🇲👁️👁️
en español