HOW to CLIMB sketchy 5.12 trad in Yosemite - BETA BREAKDOWN Ep. 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I have had loads of requests for gear and strategy for climbing harder climbs. Here it is!
I walk you through my process for trying to onsight (climb without falling first try) a hard and sketchy/dirty climb in Yosemite.
Would love to hear about what you want to see in the next episode of BETA BREAKDOWN!
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I applaud the decision you made to re-climb. I started climbing when I was six (back in ‘62) and we top roped a lot, then we learned to lead 5.5 and 5.7….and so on 8, 9 10…gaining experience in a difficulty realm that made sense. I think lots of people train at gyms, and then wonder how to transition to actual rock. 🤣 That was an instructive video; I’ve appreciated every video of yours I’ve watched. Best Regards
Thanks Mark! I plan to make more instructional videos in the future that still include a bit of entertainment.
The gyms are making people better outdoors, although I get your point on the confusion on transition. My 16 year old son's first leads were 5.8 and he was able to on sight a 5.11c with a roof problem on top rope first try. If we hadn't spend months and months in the gym before we went outdoors I am sure his outdoor progression wouldn't have been so amazing. So I do get your point but these kids growing up in gyms are going to be putting up 5.16s in a few years. It's wild.
Lovin' this video! Great commentary to what you're actually thinking and doing. Keep on sendin'
Cheers, you do the same!
This was rad! Really enjoyed the breakdown. 5.10 trad leader over here stoked to get a glimpse into your mindset.
Cheers! I was there not too long ago and remember wondering what 5.12 was like myself
More beta breakdown, plz!
you got it!
That was an exciting lead for sure 😅 the breakdown is super helpful
Yewww! Thanks for the catches!
More of theese! This was amazing! Greetings from Norway
Greetings Terje!
Loved these kind of breakdowns! I'm at the 5.10 to 5.11- range on trad so learning how to think better on a 5.12 level really helps a lot! Appreciate the video thanks!!
Appreciate the hype. Keep crushing!
Man, this has got to be the best trad video I've seen. It's super helpful to see your thought process during a trad climb
excellent step by step video and placement/route analysis. thanks for sharing.
Great video, really liked the breakdown!
Thanks Brennan!
Cool route. Those small nuts seem really scary to trust. I'm climbing in Morocco this week 😎
Yes. One of them is great, two is exciting, after 3, things get hairy.
No way! Where in Morocco??
@@GravityLabz 😂
We went to a small place called Gagou. Very beautiful and locals prepped food for us which was amazing too.
an ascent...hmm...I like the ideas of onsight, flash, red/pinkpoints, i think I utilize it more in the realm of understanding my fitness (in the gym mostly) and skills/technique but I'm just sport climbing and not very hard either. I deal with a lot of fatigue so I try not to worry too much about all that stuff, make it to the top, have fun, everyone makes it back "home"
diggin the multicam action on this one!
Ayy thanks homie! Nothing compared to your setup, but we do what we can!
Sick vid dude, love it
Cheers! Glad you enjoyed it
Great video and I love the voiceover about gear and tactics etc.. ethics are what you make of them. You can always go back if you like but in my eyes you lead all parts with gear and ground up
Awesome, thanks!
Totally agree on ethics. I count this one as a send and will likely give it a couple years before another trip up it
100% that was a send! it was sick.
Thanks dude. This was super helpful. Not a lot of good american trad content, so thank you.
It is a bit odd that the FA party didn't clean out the crack better on such a prime line. Maybe there was even a lot more and they just gave up. Love this work, inspires me to get back on the gear (led 12 trad back in the '80s/90s before I got hooked on bolting caves).
Hi, I did the first accent of this route in 2004. I did clean the route quite a bit,there was dirt in the crack from bottom to top. It was clean then, and I am sure dirt has fallen into the crack and some growth has happened over all the years.
Mountain Project listing says cleaned in Jan 2018.
Sending thoughts and prayers for everyone watching that they get a .5 placement like at 9:23 below the crux of their next spicy project
Stoked! Really enjoy the videos. Thanks for putting these together. Love seeing the gear placements. Also great to get perspective on why you’re making the decisions you are during a climb. The more detail on gear, placements, and any systems you use, the better! Thanks again
Thanks Casey. More to come!
Dude nice climb. I can tell you have a bright future of climbing ahead of you. I would trust you to lead any climb I was on.
Ayy thanks Jeckol! Who knows, may see you out there some day!
Option 4, finish route, pull gear, send. Only real option
Would love more vids like this!
Can do! Any specific aspects you would want to see?
@@GravityLabz Not op, but the risk analysis is really nice
This format is super informative and well edited definitely subbing!
Nice work! I really enjoyed watching the video. Brought back a lot of good memories of when I used to go up there and first climbed this line. I was not sure anybody was ever going to climb this after I did. Nice to see it getting some action.
Ed Whittle
thank you for your history and contributions. Y’all he is the FAist of the route
Dude learning to trad and I love this video format. Keep them coming!
Thanks! Will do!
Nice send! I'd definitely consider that a go. Why do you feel good about a black totem in a constriction? They don't have cam stops, am I wrong?
It's just nice because it has little chance to walk out of the perfect placement.
I consider nut tool gardening advice to be beta and thus not a send
Hahaha you are right. Gotta go back for the true send.
plz show us gear break down for slab and OW
oooh any climbs you have in mind?
It's a fabulous climb did two laps on solo top rope. One without the flake for the hands. Amazing climb. Thanks for the cleaning!!
I've brown pointed before.... It smelled different than a yoyo.
This is dope man!!!! Love the insights and in-depth perspective
Appreciate it!
fun! There were a couple of times you put cams in perfect spots for nuts which shocks an old timer like me. Also on occasion you placed the nuts for downward, not outward pulls, probably the 12a part explains it! Real climbing. cool.
Just cuz it wasn’t an on site send doesn’t mean you didn’t
SSSEEENNNDDD THAT SHIT!!!!
awesome video. Where I'd like to be with my climbing some day
just keep climbing & you'll be there soon enough!
Send is placing all gear, or at least that is what it implies without any asterisks, but that is just me. You did say you sent the pinkpoint, which is true. You also placed gear through the crux, so I can see why you feel like it is a true send. You are a 1000x stronger and more experienced btw haha
Not enough nuts placed. Please go immediately to UK for further nut placement training.
Well crap......I just found out that I brown point just about everything.
haha no worries about that. Climbing is unique in everyone gets to make their own rules and you don't have to follow anyone else's. The only thing is just to state the style in which you climbed the route.
Great format dude.
Also 5:07 the most gardening you've done, come up to WA and visit index in the early summer! I prob use my nut tool more for cleaning cracks than cleaning nuts.
Also 0.2 BD size cams are smaller than black totems. I got a couple 0.1's and the smallest couple offset Z4s and I always bring those if a climb looks thin. Small cams weigh nothing and fit in more places than big cams!
HAHA well I have wanted to come up to Index for quite some time but now I am questioning whether that is a good idea!
This was really cool to see. Great work on the video and send brother 🤙
дядька ты супер ) давай еще таких крутых видео ))))
Loved this video! The thought process and analysis on the quality of each piece was priceless information. Thank you!
Cheers Andrew! Glad you enjoyed it
Really cool video! I liked the beta breakdown too. I would love to see more beta breakdown especially with focus on actual climbing movement and technique. It is cool to hear you break down the moves as you do them POV. Rarely that done for trad climbing, even by the wideboyz, who produce a lot of excellent content on crack and trad climbing technique.
Thanks! Will do!
Great work, pull and resend. Once your onsight is ruined just pink it.
Totally agree.
Finger Licken' is also a good route
Product placement? 🤗
your channel is rad
ayyy thanks Mr Thirty!
What was the sketchy part? :P
Привет из России, вы безумцы😳
This was a great video! really enjoyed the breakdown
Yeeww! Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m only starting out after gym climbing for a year and not even trad-ing yet, just sport, so, not trolling here: why only 1 anchor point? Just individual choice?
If you watch closely, you'll see he put a second one on: 10:55
@@natetronn thanks for the time stamp. I definitely missed that!
@@RossPotts no problem. Also, those particular bolts look fairly new and "bomber" too. I think putting on the one draw, calling take, while still only on the one bolt and single draw is fairly common. This so you aren't still pumped out of your mind while hanging on the crack trying to put on a second one. You're safe enough on one (and thanks to all the cams below you still have backups; at least in theory) and then you can take, rest, start to think straight again, catch your breath and finally get safe(er) by throwing on the second one before you lower etc. Of course, this is context dependent (we are talking about what looks like two bomber bolts with bomber new rap rings; not a pro/gear based anchor, where one cam/nut alone seems sketch to me.) Two is better than one, if you can manage it, but I don't think this was unsafe or anything. Of course, defaulting to both is probably a good practice. But context and everyone's comfort level come into play, so ymmv
Love this type of video. Please make many more
Consider it done!
Excellent video. Not a trad leader, only a follower so far, but looking to include this in my repertoire, so this was very insightful. Kudos to you!
Awesome. I like how you double up and even use extended slings. A couple things I think about and do when getting to a area that I may fall. 1. I double up after a run out area even if the piece is bomber. Ropes unclip, carabiners cross load and break. 2. I will double up and put a extension on the lower piece. As you passed that small cam it pivoted and that might have made it a weak piece. The back up may have done the same thing. If the lower has a full sling it is more likely not to move. The first one gives you the least whip and the second one, that is more likely to hold, keeps you off the deck or ledge. Just some thoughts.
“Brownpoint” haha love it 🤣
Great video, thanks for the really detailed breakdown and walking through your thought process. Really interesting and informative! 👏👏🤙🏻
Solid Gold! Keep ‘‘em coming!
You got it Brian!
This is so great!
Could you not use some ballnuts or screamers to supplement the brass offsets?
Awesome video, I enjoyed the style and would enjoy more!
I can make that happen!
Lol love the edits, super fun video to watch!!