If your careful about how you cut the bottle you can split the remaining center section up the side to make a decent wind shield. The natural springiness of the metal makes it fit nicely around the small mess kit pan and you can rotate it with changing wind direction...
For anyone watching, you might want to drill the holes before you pop the top of the bottle into place, so you don't have stainless steel floaties in the alcohol gettting burned up! :) Just make sure you leave enough room from the top of the stove so that the holes actually can draw air and not get blocked by the insert, if that makes any sense!
very well presented! very practical. it's comforting to know that there are some human beings that will share valuable knowledge that can help keep living simple,safe,and fun!
This was fantastic. What an elegant stove, and so simple to make. One quick question, now that your video answered the question I had asked on your DIY trash stove about the fuel to use, Can this stove be used indoors safely? It appears that you are doing so, and that it burns very cleanly. But I just wanted to make sure. Thanks so much. Your videos are incredibly helpful and I love that you explain each step clearly and precisely with enough explanation that someone like me with little technical expertise in certain aspects of tool making/using can understand how to make these things. Pam
Care a syringe 💉 with and without the needle on it and fuel you don't burn just pull it up with syringe and put it back in the bottle. Ps nice alcohol stove I haven't thought of using one of those bottles but I have made alcohol stoves out of some of the small brass artillery shells and just punched the primer out of one base of the shell for a filling hole and did some lathe work and turned a funnel shape for the top of the burner and got rid of alot of weight from inside the shell base on the upper and lower shell bases . The same order as a penny stove but my stove held enough fuel to burn right at two hours with 32 flame holes it's not light weight but very nice for a cabin and I guess it's not too heavy at one pound four oz. But gets the job done pretty fast once it heats up around two minutes and gets to generate pressure from covering the filling hole it generates some pressure and makes a whistleing sound like a stove burner for out door cooking that made in stand. I'm going to try and turn one out on my lathe with a top to close off some of the flame holes to lower the heat out put and open it up for more heat and put the flame out with.
I know this is older, but I'm going to post this info so people know what fuel to use with this. Basic chemistry lesson here; the fuel being used is ethanol otherwise known as ethyl alcohol. Yes, basically booze. Heres the issue though, all consumable alcohol is controlled and taxed in almost every country. Denatured alcohol, methated alcohol, and Heet have methanol added to them to make them not consumable, poisonous. So, the can of denatured alcohol you find in the painting section, the bottle of Heet you find in the auto section, and the bottle of Everclear you find in the liquor store are all the basic fuel for this stove. Yes, they will all work. The Everclear is more pure, burns hotter, consumable, and more expensive. Heet is a couple dollars a bottle at Walmart. Denatured alcohol comes in big bottles and closer to the Heet in price per ounce but you need a different fuel carrier to buy in this quantity. RED HEET will also work, but not burn as cleanly and burn at a lower temperature. It's iso-propyl alcohol. Iso will work, but will probably take two fuel loads to boil the water. Hand gel will work too sometimes. I carry Everclear in a flask. It has more uses than just fuel.
Dang! I was going to type about the same ! aA few days ago i checked out the local liquor store for prices on everclear, and anything like that. The salesperson looked at me like i am a hellbent alcoholic, and had a hard time to understand and believe why i dont want to burn a nerve poison around me, and around my food.
I think you should clarify that Yellow Heet is predominantly methanol, while denatured alcohol is predominantly ethanol, usually with a little methanol added to make it poisonous if taken (although that doesn't discourage the real down-and-outers) Yellow Heet and denatured alcohol burn at different temperatures, with Yellow Heet having a cooler bluer flame. You're right that both can be used in alcohol stoves. Methanol is very poisonous in both it's liquid and vapour forms
91 iso works fine one go 'round and if your pot is sitting at a right height above flame, you can avoid the soot associated with burning with iso as well. 32 oz of iso at dollar store is 3 bucks or so.
carefulbushcraft andsurvival I find most alcohol stoves that I've used perform very similarly. Whenever there is a difference, it's usually marginal. I could be wrong though. There could very well be a stove out there that only uses 1 ounce of fuel to boil 2 cups of water in under 60 seconds :-)
If you notice, one of the steps involves using a saw to cut notches in the lid before inserting it. This allows the alcohol to flow through the center.
For the best/optimal fuel consumption, you only put knicks all the way around the bottle lip. The deeper the cuts are, the less fuel you can use at the end of the burn time. Conversely, the smaller the cuts are, the more fuel you can use at the end, then it goes out promptly (which is very fuel efficient - going along great with the tracking the fuel level marking and burn times). I make my insert piece taller than the base piece, so the burner can be taken apart to experiment with mods, such as with various wick materials, or without.
Hey man good video, One thing ive learned is you could use a phone book with a razor blade to put a light score around the outside of the can to make you markings. These are great handy stoves and thanks for sharing I have well over 200 burns on mine and it's still going strong
Yes... you have wait a bit before the gas is "primed". This is the point where the heat being generated by the initial flame heats the liquid fuel underneath to the point where it begins to convert into a vapor and come out the sides. I can imagine that in different altitudes and temperatures this time may vary greatly. I took this camping in 5-degree (F) weather and had a hard time getting it primed. It's also a good idea to take a wind screen with you when you are outside.
Thanks so much for this video, I just finished making mine and used your mess kit idea for storage too, perfect for my emergency/SHTF bag and ultralight backpacking on a budget : )
Thank you for another great video! Very informative and easy to understand. I have make some can stoves with the same design and I love the burn quality but Im very interested in making a thicker wall design as the cans become brittle pretty soon!
I was bummed that one of your videos had comments disabled. It was that in ground fireplace video. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing that idea and instructions.
That hacksaw is almost identical to the one given to me by my employer when I was a trainee radio technician in 1965. This is in Australia and it was an Australian brand hacksaw and I still use it.
Id like to add that I tried many types of alcohol up here in Canada and found out that the 99% isopropyl alcohol isn't as pure as they claim. Yellow flames and soot all over cooking materials. Almost 5 bucks for 500ml. Now, I tried Methyl Hydrate from Canadian tire for about 11 bucks for 4 Liters (A gallon), and it's really pure and really cheap! I wonder if more holes would heat up the water faster? Excellent video, thanks!
The soot isn't from impurities, it's from the makeup of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen atoms making up the alcohol. Ethanol and methanol both completely convert the carbon atoms to CO², but isopropynol has too many carbons, and so some is released as soot. More holes or fewer, larger holes or smaller, the heat output will be the same using the same amount of alcohol, but will differ in duration and intensity. The only way to be certain is to experiment.
With smaller diameter jet holes, that produce higher pressure jet flames, I like to angle the holes upwards so to get better surface contact with the bottom of the pot and heat it more rapidly and efficiently. This is done by removing the drill bit from the drill, inserting it backwards into the hole, and bending the bit up all the way vertically. This reshapes the jet flame pattern to produce better boil times. A safety step, when manually drilling jet holes, that is not in the vid, is to take a nail or screw and tap a divet in the aluminum waterbottle to keep the drill bit from wandering out of place (possibly injuring yourself). Take a measuring cup. Fill it to various known volumes with fuel, and dump the fuel into your burner. Then, each time, take a screw tip and scratch a mark on the inside of the burner to know how much fuel you are pouring in freehand, when you go to use the burner. This will guide your fuel use, because, as you burn off the various fuel levels, you notate the burn times for future reference. Interior fuel markings are MUY IMPORTANTE. *Know your maximum fuel level, since overfilling a burner makes it spew lit fuel from the jet holes, in all directions, which is an obvious fire hazzard. You cannot fill the burner with fuel up to the jet holes. You HAVE to fill it below them. Have that max level marked inside the burner. ALWAYS prime the burner from the outside. It is imperative to saving fuel, since waiting a few seconds to nearly 2 minutes of fuel being burnt is a big difference in fuel consumption as compared to the amount of fuel used to cook food or boil water. This simple step expedites heating the compression chamber fuel fumes to bloom from the jet holes with flames. You only need use as much as is necessary to get the jets to bloom with flame. The external fuel should be measured to burn out quickly thereafter. This maximizes the overall fuel efficiency of the burner, by allowing you to reclaim any unburnt fuel at the end.
@laakman The thing that is really cool about them is that they are way more durable than the pop can stoves as well. I've burned mine 50+ times now in the woods and have yet to see any wear on it.
Great design. We are delighted. Simple. We suggest: Use bench vise press with 3"wood buffers to squeeze pieces? Pot stand for stability & snuffer from chafing dish alcohol burner for safety? How would we make Trangia alcohol stove from chafing dish alcohol burner??? Perhaps an insert with the side holes, & spacer to raise burner to the 1" ideal space between burner to pot (with screw adjust). Chafing dish stand (or fondue stand) becomes pot stand. We can cook with the fondue pot as well. (Fondue & chafing are simmer-style low heat designs). Finally, small screw at bottom of burner allows draining fuel left in stove?
You can use HEET (in the yellow bottle). You can also use denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol can be purchased all over. I think Wal Mart even sells it. I know they sell it on Amazon as well.
Pour from the heet bottles with the opening to the high side and it pours better. Same with oil bottle. It allows the replacement sit into the bottles smoother.
I don't know if anyone has stated this yet, but the reason that alcohol won't dissolve the salt but water does has to do with solubilities. Water is a polar solvent, while alcohols tend to drift more towards non-polar. Like dissolves like is what you want to remember, Salt (Na+Cl-) is also polar, so it will dissolve in water, but not as readily (if at all) in alcohol.
Just made my first one.. Excellent.. I had to then modify it to tame it as it was blasting out.. I also guess once you make one stove you would then have the urge to make more..
That is a nice well crafted stove that will last. No vise for drilling? Lean a drawer against a wall, and lay the stove in the groove formed where the bottom meets the side of the drawer. Drill pushing into the groove. Again, Nice Video !
I like it a lot and the thicker walls are a good idea, in stead of using a drill use a push pin & a block of wood to make the wholes!!! safety first!! this is a cool stove, but so no one gets hurt tell them if their using power tools a vise works great ,and for this job you don't need a big one.allso can you use this inside your home if power goes out???on a fire proof base!
I wouldn't recommend using this indoors (safety first :-). I have used this indoors on top of my stove for other testing purposes and it works fine. My only long-term concern was if you used this in a small room what kinds of fumes it would put off. It burns clean, but oftentimes the stuff you can't see is the worst for you. Might have to do more research on that.
I can't say for sure. My guess is that it could with a little extra fuel in the beginning. I'm not sure it would boil 1.5 litres for 6-10 minutes though (for water purification purposes). The reason I used 2 cups is because most backpackers/hikers/campers etc. use no more than 2 cups for meal prep.
TIP: If you set the base piece and the top end down onto a piece of sandpaper and push them back and forth on the sandpaper, that will even out the edges and make a perfectly even edge all the way around.
Excellent video....Alcohol like heet is great for stable continuous fire. I have mixed it up before and used grain alc, (everclear) that was a fire that had to burn it's self out.
Good idea to use the $1 store water bottle instead of drink cans, however i believe i would stick with the basic penny can design instead of having a big opening at the top.
i think it,s called a rift stove, i made 1 or 2 and, like you the first scrappy one works best, dunno why, made sure the top was totally flat, good seal wt the pan, works better than many other bum stoves
A "rift stove" has rifts, or slits, cut vertically around the insert. These rifts act as capillary tubes to draw the fuel vertically up to the top of the stove, where it vaporizes and burns. This stove is called a Pot-Pressurized Side Burner. It differs from a sealed pressure stove by not being pressurized until the pot is set on top. A Pressurized Stove is generally filled through a threaded hole, and pressurized by threading a screw into the hole. A penny stove is pressurized by placing a penny over the center fill hole.
I'm curious why the salt doesn't dissolve in it. I understand why the burning alcohol would leave the salt behind, but I'm just curious since the alcohol is a liquid. Guess I'll have to do a bit more research. Thanks for the tip again.
this is a really good video. I think this would be a good idea if you need to cook and the wood is wet kind of situation. I was wondering can you use the high percent rubbing alchol? or do you realy need that deet stuff?
David, I'm looking for a stove as part of my earthquake preparedness emergency kit. So I will need to store the stove for a long time in my storage box outside of my house. Do you recommend the alcohol DIY stove or just get a camping stove with propane or butane fuel?
They self light, but I was just growing impatient. And yes, the center pot goes out because the alcohol fumes are coming out of the sides. It burns more efficiently that way from what I understand.
@gabrielleb74 That is exactly why I use it. In true wilderness situations my first "go to" is a Dakota fire hole, but if wood is too difficult to find due to weather, I always have that stove with me. And I have never tried hi percent alcohol in it, mostly because HEET was what I was always told ws what worked best. I do know you can use denatured alcohol which can be found in many home improvement stores. It usually comes in larger quantities.
I don't entirely understand what you are saying, but if what I think you are saying is correct you are right... I think. I'm actually working on a stove that requires no priming whatsoever. I'll be sure to post it when it's completed. Having to prime the stove is a downfall to this stove.
Capillary hoop stoves are the only burners I know of that don't need priming. Priming from the outside is necessary for overall fuel efficiency for any other alcohol burner.
Good stove. But, you wasted two minutes of fuel waiting for your stove to bloom. You should *_ALWAYS_* use about a ml around the outside to prime a side burner. Your boil could have been 4'30" instead of 6'30". By priming the stove, you can cut your bloom time to 15-20 seconds. Not only in cold temps, but every time you use the stove. You will also cut your fuel usage from 25ml to 20ml. That equates to one extra boil per trip, carrying the same amount of fuel. *_ALWAYS_* prime a side burner.
Ricochet74 I can't honestly tell you. I know there is a point where more holes = less efficiency because of fuel loss. This configuration works well for me though.
There is a balance you need to find between "more holes = more heat" and "fewer smaller holes = more compression = more heat = less effiency" in terms or fuel consumption/efficiency.
I think I've found that wicking only delays the internal chamber fuel from gasifying/boiling (burner from blooming), since it is absorbing the heat from the heating fuel that is lit.
I boil 1.5 litre water because I usually prepare the whole day drinking water in the morning. I never drink unboiled water for safety reason. Anyway, thank you very much for your quick reply.
when you are drilling the fire hokes --as you penatrate the can slowly lift up on the drill till you are pointing to the bottem of the can----this will cause the flame to be more on the serface of the pam and get heated sooner
I will build two today, and will use 20 ounce stainless steel bottles that have been laying around in the basement. One of them I will give to my camping & fishing buddie Margie. This practical hillbilly gal could make a 7 course meal out of a bag of popcorn and a pack of hot dogs. This will build brownie points with the camp cook,,, thanks.
If your careful about how you cut the bottle you can split the remaining center section up the side to make a decent wind shield. The natural springiness of the metal makes it fit nicely around the small mess kit pan and you can rotate it with changing wind direction...
For anyone watching, you might want to drill the holes before you pop the top of the bottle into place, so you don't have stainless steel floaties in the alcohol gettting burned up! :) Just make sure you leave enough room from the top of the stove so that the holes actually can draw air and not get blocked by the insert, if that makes any sense!
Obrigado
Very correctly clarified bro its impotant too.
Shakil Rao PAKISTAN
very well presented! very practical. it's comforting to know that there are some human beings that will share valuable knowledge that can help keep living simple,safe,and fun!
Jeffrey Buchalco Thanks :)
I really thought I was the only person left who still had one of these mess kits!
This was fantastic. What an elegant stove, and so simple to make. One quick question, now that your video answered the question I had asked on your DIY trash stove about the fuel to use, Can this stove be used indoors safely? It appears that you are doing so, and that it burns very cleanly. But I just wanted to make sure. Thanks so much. Your videos are incredibly helpful and I love that you explain each step clearly and precisely with enough explanation that someone like me with little technical expertise in certain aspects of tool making/using can understand how to make these things. Pam
Made one this evening in less than 1 hour, and it worked on the first try. Thanks so much for the video.
+Mike O'Quinn They sure are a lot of fun to make and use.
Care a syringe 💉 with and without the needle on it and fuel you don't burn just pull it up with syringe and put it back in the bottle. Ps nice alcohol stove I haven't thought of using one of those bottles but I have made alcohol stoves out of some of the small brass artillery shells and just punched the primer out of one base of the shell for a filling hole and did some lathe work and turned a funnel shape for the top of the burner and got rid of alot of weight from inside the shell base on the upper and lower shell bases . The same order as a penny stove but my stove held enough fuel to burn right at two hours with 32 flame holes it's not light weight but very nice for a cabin and I guess it's not too heavy at one pound four oz. But gets the job done pretty fast once it heats up around two minutes and gets to generate pressure from covering the filling hole it generates some pressure and makes a whistleing sound like a stove burner for out door cooking that made in stand. I'm going to try and turn one out on my lathe with a top to close off some of the flame holes to lower the heat out put and open it up for more heat and put the flame out with.
I know this is older, but I'm going to post this info so people know what fuel to use with this. Basic chemistry lesson here; the fuel being used is ethanol otherwise known as ethyl alcohol. Yes, basically booze. Heres the issue though, all consumable alcohol is controlled and taxed in almost every country. Denatured alcohol, methated alcohol, and Heet have methanol added to them to make them not consumable, poisonous. So, the can of denatured alcohol you find in the painting section, the bottle of Heet you find in the auto section, and the bottle of Everclear you find in the liquor store are all the basic fuel for this stove. Yes, they will all work. The Everclear is more pure, burns hotter, consumable, and more expensive. Heet is a couple dollars a bottle at Walmart. Denatured alcohol comes in big bottles and closer to the Heet in price per ounce but you need a different fuel carrier to buy in this quantity. RED HEET will also work, but not burn as cleanly and burn at a lower temperature. It's iso-propyl alcohol. Iso will work, but will probably take two fuel loads to boil the water. Hand gel will work too sometimes. I carry Everclear in a flask. It has more uses than just fuel.
Sean M I would like to note that Everclear is also dual purpose ; ), thanks for clarifying.
+Michael S. August I got the off brand of Heet at the Dollar Tree for a buck a bottle. Worked like a charm.
Dang! I was going to type about the same ! aA few days ago i checked out the local liquor store for prices on everclear, and anything like that. The salesperson looked at me like i am a hellbent alcoholic, and had a hard time to understand and believe why i dont want to burn a nerve poison around me, and around my food.
I think you should clarify that Yellow Heet is predominantly methanol, while denatured alcohol is predominantly ethanol, usually with a little methanol added to make it poisonous if taken (although that doesn't discourage the real down-and-outers)
Yellow Heet and denatured alcohol burn at different temperatures, with Yellow Heet having a cooler bluer flame. You're right that both can be used in alcohol stoves. Methanol is very poisonous in both it's liquid and vapour forms
91 iso works fine one go 'round and if your pot is sitting at a right height above flame, you can avoid the soot associated with burning with iso as well. 32 oz of iso at dollar store is 3 bucks or so.
I made one of these stoves and I think for a £1.00 you cannot beat it, I tested mine against a trangia and performance very similar, well impressed
carefulbushcraft andsurvival I find most alcohol stoves that I've used perform very similarly. Whenever there is a difference, it's usually marginal. I could be wrong though. There could very well be a stove out there that only uses 1 ounce of fuel to boil 2 cups of water in under 60 seconds :-)
That is so cool! Thanks for sharing this. I'm going to build some and these are far easier than the popcan stoves to build. Way cool!
If you notice, one of the steps involves using a saw to cut notches in the lid before inserting it. This allows the alcohol to flow through the center.
For the best/optimal fuel consumption, you only put knicks all the way around the bottle lip. The deeper the cuts are, the less fuel you can use at the end of the burn time. Conversely, the smaller the cuts are, the more fuel you can use at the end, then it goes out promptly (which is very fuel efficient - going along great with the tracking the fuel level marking and burn times).
I make my insert piece taller than the base piece, so the burner can be taken apart to experiment with mods, such as with various wick materials, or without.
Loved your video, I like the fact that it will fit inside my mess kit. Can't wait to make mine and test the burn time. Thanks for the good info
Hey man good video, One thing ive learned is you could use a phone book with a razor blade to put a light score around the outside of the can to make you markings. These are great handy stoves and thanks for sharing
I have well over 200 burns on mine and it's still going strong
db Cooper they do hold up rather well. I still have and use this stove to this day.
awesome video
This is a great idea!!! Out of the entire project, that is by far the hardest step for most people. Thanks for the comment!
Thank-you! This will be great for my camping trip. I love all of your videos! You really explain things well
Thanks for the encouragement. It really means a lot. Be safe out there! :-)
Very nice design, I like the pot holder is built in. I may try this build as I have an idea for a dollar store bushcraft 48 hour vid.
Yes... you have wait a bit before the gas is "primed". This is the point where the heat being generated by the initial flame heats the liquid fuel underneath to the point where it begins to convert into a vapor and come out the sides. I can imagine that in different altitudes and temperatures this time may vary greatly. I took this camping in 5-degree (F) weather and had a hard time getting it primed. It's also a good idea to take a wind screen with you when you are outside.
You have a really calm and relaxing voice.
Thanks so much for this video, I just finished making mine and used your mess kit idea for storage too, perfect for my emergency/SHTF bag and ultralight backpacking on a budget : )
Thank you for another great video!
Very informative and easy to understand.
I have make some can stoves with the same design and I love the burn quality but Im very interested in making a thicker wall design as the cans become brittle pretty soon!
I was bummed that one of your videos had comments disabled. It was that in ground fireplace video. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing that idea and instructions.
That hacksaw is almost identical to the one given to me by my employer when I was a trainee radio technician in 1965. This is in Australia and it was an Australian brand hacksaw and I still use it.
Id like to add that I tried many types of alcohol up here in Canada and found out that the 99% isopropyl alcohol isn't as pure as they claim. Yellow flames and soot all over cooking materials. Almost 5 bucks for 500ml. Now, I tried Methyl Hydrate from Canadian tire for about 11 bucks for 4 Liters (A gallon), and it's really pure and really cheap! I wonder if more holes would heat up the water faster? Excellent video, thanks!
+skahabri Maybe. Try it and let me know :-)
The soot isn't from impurities, it's from the makeup of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen atoms making up the alcohol. Ethanol and methanol both completely convert the carbon atoms to CO², but isopropynol has too many carbons, and so some is released as soot.
More holes or fewer, larger holes or smaller, the heat output will be the same using the same amount of alcohol, but will differ in duration and intensity. The only way to be certain is to experiment.
With smaller diameter jet holes, that produce higher pressure jet flames, I like to angle the holes upwards so to get better surface contact with the bottom of the pot and heat it more rapidly and efficiently. This is done by removing the drill bit from the drill, inserting it backwards into the hole, and bending the bit up all the way vertically. This reshapes the jet flame pattern to produce better boil times.
A safety step, when manually drilling jet holes, that is not in the vid, is to take a nail or screw and tap a divet in the aluminum waterbottle to keep the drill bit from wandering out of place (possibly injuring yourself).
Take a measuring cup. Fill it to various known volumes with fuel, and dump the fuel into your burner. Then, each time, take a screw tip and scratch a mark on the inside of the burner to know how much fuel you are pouring in freehand, when you go to use the burner. This will guide your fuel use, because, as you burn off the various fuel levels, you notate the burn times for future reference. Interior fuel markings are MUY IMPORTANTE.
*Know your maximum fuel level, since overfilling a burner makes it spew lit fuel from the jet holes, in all directions, which is an obvious fire hazzard. You cannot fill the burner with fuel up to the jet holes. You HAVE to fill it below them. Have that max level marked inside the burner.
ALWAYS prime the burner from the outside. It is imperative to saving fuel, since waiting a few seconds to nearly 2 minutes of fuel being burnt is a big difference in fuel consumption as compared to the amount of fuel used to cook food or boil water. This simple step expedites heating the compression chamber fuel fumes to bloom from the jet holes with flames. You only need use as much as is necessary to get the jets to bloom with flame. The external fuel should be measured to burn out quickly thereafter. This maximizes the overall fuel efficiency of the burner, by allowing you to reclaim any unburnt fuel at the end.
@@robertcwillifordii2630
Good tips.
@laakman The thing that is really cool about them is that they are way more durable than the pop can stoves as well. I've burned mine 50+ times now in the woods and have yet to see any wear on it.
That is a great idea! I will definitely use that when I make more of these. Thanks for the tip!
Great video, once you have the cut started you can use tin snips if you have them.
Wicked survivalist Thanks for the tip
I built this model. This is the best one. Robust, makeable with simple tools, no adhesive necessary.
I have a couple of old water bottles like that I no longer use. Fun project to find a use for them. Thanks.
Great little stove. Good job man!
MD Outdoor Reviews It's still working well for me when I need it.
Great design. We are delighted. Simple.
We suggest:
Use bench vise press with 3"wood buffers to squeeze pieces?
Pot stand for stability
& snuffer from chafing dish alcohol burner for safety?
How would we make Trangia alcohol stove from chafing dish alcohol burner???
Perhaps an insert with the side holes, & spacer to raise burner to the 1" ideal space
between burner to pot
(with screw adjust).
Chafing dish stand (or fondue stand) becomes pot stand.
We can cook with the fondue pot as well.
(Fondue & chafing are simmer-style low heat designs).
Finally, small screw at bottom of burner allows draining fuel left in stove?
Excellent instructions! Great video!
You can use HEET (in the yellow bottle). You can also use denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol can be purchased all over. I think Wal Mart even sells it. I know they sell it on Amazon as well.
I'd be curious to see side by side comparisons of two of these with more holes drilled.
Pour from the heet bottles with the opening to the high side and it pours better. Same with oil bottle. It allows the replacement sit into the bottles smoother.
I don't know if anyone has stated this yet, but the reason that alcohol won't dissolve the salt but water does has to do with solubilities. Water is a polar solvent, while alcohols tend to drift more towards non-polar. Like dissolves like is what you want to remember, Salt (Na+Cl-) is also polar, so it will dissolve in water, but not as readily (if at all) in alcohol.
I just built one, thanks. works best with a larger pot as this is a side jet design.
wow watched 2 videos and i subscribed !! thanks and blessings sir !!
Great video David, nice and simple!!!
Just made my first one.. Excellent.. I had to then modify it to tame it as it was blasting out.. I also guess once you make one stove you would then have the urge to make more..
use a hose clamp around the bottle to mark it and guide the hacksaw. perfect cut
That is a nice well crafted stove that will last.
No vise for drilling? Lean a drawer against a wall, and lay the stove in the groove formed where the bottom meets the side of the drawer. Drill pushing into the groove. Again, Nice Video !
Dave, this is wonderful! Thanks for sharing your wisdome with us!
Nice job. I'll be trying this one. Thanks.
I like it a lot and the thicker walls are a good idea, in stead of using a drill use a push pin & a block of wood to make the wholes!!! safety first!! this is a cool stove, but so no one gets hurt tell them if their using power tools a vise works great ,and for this job you don't need a big one.allso can you use this inside your home if power goes out???on a fire proof base!
I wouldn't recommend using this indoors (safety first :-). I have used this indoors on top of my stove for other testing purposes and it works fine. My only long-term concern was if you used this in a small room what kinds of fumes it would put off. It burns clean, but oftentimes the stuff you can't see is the worst for you. Might have to do more research on that.
cool stuff David, I used a hammer and a hockey puck to seat the two halves together. I burn methanol my stove with good success. Thanks for sharing
I can't say for sure. My guess is that it could with a little extra fuel in the beginning. I'm not sure it would boil 1.5 litres for 6-10 minutes though (for water purification purposes). The reason I used 2 cups is because most backpackers/hikers/campers etc. use no more than 2 cups for meal prep.
what a great looking stove thanks for sharing this video now its time to build my own
I love this kind of videos , thank you!
I'm gonna try this one.it looks really good .thank u for posting
The more I use this stove, the more I appreciate the windscreen's usefulness.
Excellent video, I'll look for one of those water bottles for a higher quality diy stove. Thanks for the inspiration. ciao.
TIP: If you set the base piece and the top end down onto a piece of sandpaper and push them back and forth on the sandpaper, that will even out the edges and make a perfectly even edge all the way around.
Excellent video....Alcohol like heet is great for stable continuous fire. I have mixed it up before and used grain alc, (everclear) that was a fire that had to burn it's self out.
a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel works good too, also using a rotary stone you can dress the edges.
Great tip! Does that effect the efficiency at all?
You can get a half gallon of denatured alcohol at home depot for about $4.50. It is in the paint stripper section.
Good idea to use the $1 store water bottle instead of drink cans, however i believe i would stick with the basic penny can design instead of having a big opening at the top.
After watched this video, i ordered $65 alcohol stove. By the way you have golden finger!
That sounds like a great way to do it! Thanks for sharing.
You are the man bud! I tried the other no holes easy alcohol stove that i love but... this type of fule is awesome or heet thanks million.
Great video! How much does this weigh, in grams?
Nvm I just didn't let it burn long enough...it eventually took off
Love it! Stove looks sleek and professionally done!
That is a great tip! That is way cheaper than buying HEET all the time. Thanks for the input! :-)
This rocks!! Thx for the instruction. I'm stoked to get started!!!
When you pour the excess fuel back into the bottle, after cooking, does it come out the top section, or out through the holes in the side?
awesome lil stove thank you for showing me how do its done!!
+SUEvival Series no problem, thanks for watching :-)
That's a great idea! I never thought of that. Thanks for sharing. I will definitely try that :)
You can use a vice to mesh together. Good idea for a camp stove
i think it,s called a rift stove, i made 1 or 2 and, like you the first scrappy one works best, dunno why, made sure the top was totally flat, good seal wt the pan, works better than many other bum stoves
A "rift stove" has rifts, or slits, cut vertically around the insert. These rifts act as capillary tubes to draw the fuel vertically up to the top of the stove, where it vaporizes and burns. This stove is called a Pot-Pressurized Side Burner. It differs from a sealed pressure stove by not being pressurized until the pot is set on top. A Pressurized Stove is generally filled through a threaded hole, and pressurized by threading a screw into the hole. A penny stove is pressurized by placing a penny over the center fill hole.
I'm curious why the salt doesn't dissolve in it. I understand why the burning alcohol would leave the salt behind, but I'm just curious since the alcohol is a liquid. Guess I'll have to do a bit more research. Thanks for the tip again.
this is a really good video. I think this would be a good idea if you need to cook and the wood is wet kind of situation. I was wondering can you use the high percent rubbing alchol? or do you realy need that deet stuff?
I like your work. But have you considered editing?
Yes! :-) Check out some of my more recent videos :-)
You can also use an aluminum Bud bottle to make this stove. Cost may be a bit more but you get to drink the beer!
I have the same aluminum cooking set from Walmart but yours looks bigger i was wondering if yours was older or something.
David, I'm looking for a stove as part of my earthquake preparedness emergency kit. So I will need to store the stove for a long time in my storage box outside of my house. Do you recommend the alcohol DIY stove or just get a camping stove with propane or butane fuel?
excellent video. i am going to try it.
FYI, Heet is not safe it has dangerous vapors. Use denatured alcohol. Nice video.
Very Nice; have you ever tried using fuel bars in this gizmo?
You can ise a radiator hose clamp to use as a perfect guide to mark or cut round objects!
They self light, but I was just growing impatient. And yes, the center pot goes out because the alcohol fumes are coming out of the sides. It burns more efficiently that way from what I understand.
@gabrielleb74 That is exactly why I use it. In true wilderness situations my first "go to" is a Dakota fire hole, but if wood is too difficult to find due to weather, I always have that stove with me. And I have never tried hi percent alcohol in it, mostly because HEET was what I was always told ws what worked best. I do know you can use denatured alcohol which can be found in many home improvement stores. It usually comes in larger quantities.
I bet! I'd love to go hiking in Switzerland.
Sounds like a great video idea. Let me know when you get it up.
I don't entirely understand what you are saying, but if what I think you are saying is correct you are right... I think. I'm actually working on a stove that requires no priming whatsoever. I'll be sure to post it when it's completed. Having to prime the stove is a downfall to this stove.
Capillary hoop stoves are the only burners I know of that don't need priming. Priming from the outside is necessary for overall fuel efficiency for any other alcohol burner.
What's so bad about the red bottle Heet? Just curious. Haven't tried it yet.
They say it makes soot.I haven't tried ether.but
Good stove.
But, you wasted two minutes of fuel waiting for your stove to bloom. You should *_ALWAYS_* use about a ml around the outside to prime a side burner. Your boil could have been 4'30" instead of 6'30". By priming the stove, you can cut your bloom time to 15-20 seconds. Not only in cold temps, but every time you use the stove. You will also cut your fuel usage from 25ml to 20ml. That equates to one extra boil per trip, carrying the same amount of fuel.
*_ALWAYS_* prime a side burner.
do more holes = more heat?, less time? or doesn't work?
Ricochet74 I can't honestly tell you. I know there is a point where more holes = less efficiency because of fuel loss. This configuration works well for me though.
There is a balance you need to find between "more holes = more heat" and "fewer smaller holes = more compression = more heat = less effiency" in terms or fuel consumption/efficiency.
Burn each,was not put on the pot to fuel to 1 minute even burn if it cannot be used.This is already a past format stove.
Thanks nice job. But why not make the holes before putting the top and bottom together?
good work
Great video I built one the other day it works great , Thanks
Thats Creative! Very inspiring ! Lots of effort too.
Thanks for sharing such a wonderful video. :-)
Thanks for watching! :-)
Anytime for such wonderful wonderful videos and your effort!!
Keep continuing such great work. God bless!!
Perhaps, a little wicking material around the bottle neck and inside the outer base might make it easier when finished with boil.
I think I've found that wicking only delays the internal chamber fuel from gasifying/boiling (burner from blooming), since it is absorbing the heat from the heating fuel that is lit.
I boil 1.5 litre water because I usually prepare the whole day drinking water in the morning. I never drink unboiled water for safety reason. Anyway, thank you very much for your quick reply.
when you are drilling the fire hokes --as you penatrate the can slowly lift up on the drill till you are pointing to the bottem of the can----this will cause the flame to be more on the serface of the pam and get heated sooner
After drilling the holes, remove the bit, insert it backwards into jets and bend the bit upwards, vertically, to maintain the hole integrity.
sorry for the dumb question, but did you drill through just the outer part of the water bottle or through both?
g Not a dumb question at all. Just the outer wall. :-)
I will build two today, and will use 20 ounce stainless steel bottles that have been laying around in the basement. One of them I will give to my camping & fishing buddie Margie. This practical hillbilly gal could make a 7 course meal out of a bag of popcorn and a pack of hot dogs. This will build brownie points with the camp cook,,, thanks.
Not with alcohol unfortunately. The alcohol has to reach a certain temperature before it begins to evaporate rapidly (causing the jets).
Thanks for you Video it is a great design.
Very nice video.
Thanks! :-)