Daily MTB Rider Yeah, definitely. I am looking at getting a new bike hopefully not too far from now so that's probably a good time to switch over. Is tubeless lighter than tubes?
In still running tubes roo....however I'm really new into MTBing, and my tires get flat very easily, but before I upgrade my tires I need to upgrade my whole bike lol.
Daily MTB Rider RaceFace Chesters are under $50 and have pins that can be replaced which isn't crazy but I rode Odyssey Twisted pedals for almost 3 years and they are under $20 on amazon. With a little research you can get a good set for a reasonable price.
In order of my biggest bang for the buck upgrades for MY MTB ride: * Grips. Try & play around with several. My preference are the new Ergon GA3 series. * Flat pedal upgrade. I tried out a few high-value MFGs; Race Face Chester & (near identical) Fooker. Made a huge improvement = greater increase in surface area. * Tubeless tires = absolutely. * Most may have this already but a dropper post IS MANDATORY in my personal opinion. * Knowledge! Read & watch as much local trail info, "dos & don'ts" info, and local group rides info. Then go practice!
Another great video, tubeless all the way. I have an older 09 Stumpjumper and I purchased the kit at REI for under 50.00 money well spent. I live in New England and there are a lot of rocks. Another upgrade which was more but a true game changer was a dropper post I purchased on Amazon for about 140.00 made by DNM. Love it. Take care.
Tubeless is a great upgrade and so is that DNM dropper. I actually had one on an older bike and it was great! Thanks for the reminder of how good they are!
I put gorilla tape on the bottom tube to protect against small rocks and the wear of my brake lines. I also stuck some skateboard grips tape on all of my levers so my fingers never slip. These little differences help a lot!
I think the biggest difference when riding was using clipless pedals. I paid around 100€ for crankbrothers doubleshot 1 (which are cool because you have flat and clipless pedals in one) and some Shimano shoes. I would say you can go clipless for 70€ and in the mountainbikeworld that is actually quite cheap
Main reason you use those “mucky nutz fenders” is to stop mud and debris from hitting your fork stanchions. Means they don’t get scratched and keeps the seals from shitting out as fast. The less mud in the face is a little bonus.
Totally agree with you Louis! Keeping your bike/fork healthy is priority #1! But, I have to admit the mud out of my face and gopro is a close second 😂! Thanks for watching!
A better saddle is a good tip but your fit advice was maybe not the best. I went through a handful of saddles at random before researching the subject and learning to measure my “sit bones”. Choosing the right saddle (WTB Speed V) after that was a breeze and made a huge difference in comfort on rides longer than 12 or so miles. I did 22 seriously steep miles on an ultra narrow selle Italia and I thought I was never going to sit down again after that (I had no chamois either). Great sound quality by the way!
The greatest added benefit of the Mucky Nutz fender is keeping the crud, grime, grit and mud off my FORK stanchions. I don't care about getting dirty. And I'm going to say...SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOPS! Buying on-line is convenient, it can be cheaper, but we'd be nowhere without the local shop heroes.
Goat Rides Bikes Yes, the biggest advantage of the small mudguard is the fork protection I cannot ride without them. $10 is a rip-off though, DIY costs nothing. Btw what if your local bike shop is a crap? I won’t spend a dime in the ones around me, I don’t let them touch my bikes. The good ones that are capable to adapt, provide good service and value to the customers will be fine. The rest can complain about the internet but it will not take them anywhere...
Two of the first things I did for my admittedly cheap MTB was upgrade the saddle and stem/bars. The saddle that came with mine was almost like a comfort-bike type saddle; so I swapped it from another bike in my stable. Cheap fix and problem solved. The stem that came with mine was way far forward and the bar was not very wide. I bought a much shorter Hussefelt stem and added a bar that was wider and had a bit more rise. Now when I'm working an incline it just takes a slight tug to pop the front wheel up and over. Anyway, thanks for sharing your thoughts on upgrades. I may just check out those Mucky fenders. At that price it's almost a no brainer to at least try them out.
Daily MTB Rider sorry if it’s been said already. I just came across this. That was my first upgrade almost immediately after the first couple of rides. $45 on Amazon
Comprehensive vid & good suggestions. Now, put down the mouse and stop in to your LBS!! These guys are pros and love what they do. Yes, a few bux more but shop loyalty goes a long way. Most good shops have a saddle demo program where you can demo as many seats as you need until you find the perfect style & size and, the demo cost will (usually) apply to the purchase price. And yes, ride your bike every day!!!
135mm saddles come stock on a lot of bikes. A lot of folks dont have sit bones that narrow and end up slipping off one side of the saddle. Saddle width isnt the end all for picking a comfortable saddle but it's good to have a saddle that is at least as wide as your sit bones. Otherwise great list!
I just upgraded my stem and got a race face atlas bar. Not only do I fit on my bike a little better (mostly due to the stem) but I definitely have more control when I'm fishtailing in wet snow. Can't wait for summer!!
Fork upgrades (though not universally applicable): replace the (likely ill-matched to your weight) coil spring with an air spring, or change the air spring's travel for slacker (or steeper) geometry.
No, I'm talking about a new air-spring for the fork you have. I replaced the coil spring on my XC bike with an air spring for around $40. ENORMOUS difference! I also just bought a 140 mm air shaft to replace my 130 mm for $35, and I'm looking forward to the slacker geometry.
Got ya Paul! Sorry I missed that. Yes, the right coil for your weight/riding makes a huge difference! Also air selves are a great option. Thanks again for your suggestions!
LMAO @3:25 "And smaller you go the more universal fit you're gonna get." Idk if it's the weed or what but that damn line was pretty epic! I have a very crude sense of humor lol
that's defiantly an interesting build you got there! But you know what the best part about it is, it shows a little bit about who you are! Thanks for sharing a go ride your bike!
The bars and stem I run is renthal apex 31mm and renthal fatbar 31.8mm clamp, 35mm rise and 780mm width and I love it even if its a little bit pricey (160€)
I'd say pedals and tires should be on the list too. Also if you have mechanical brakes, upgrading to hydro is big. Even cheap hydros are wayyy better than mechanical brakes and the install is stupid easy
mostly noticable upgrade i did on my bike (2005 Stump Jumper) was an shorter stem and wider handlebar...it really does the difference in the ride quality and handling....
Love my Norco, old and new. They've all had long stems. They go to friends. A short stem and long handle bars even on a 26er. Let's you stand over the bars and control that bad puppy.
lol...grips are one of the first upgrades for sure. price point isn't a determining factor when it comes to grips from the factory...even at the $5k price point I still had to swap grips to the ones I like. Nice video. Keep up the grind. If you ever hit the Tulsa area let me know and we shall ride
Yeah definitely a personal choice. I ride odi ruffians. Have been for years. Nothing else feels right. So that's always the first thing when I get a new bike.
The thing with tubeless is that it's very expensive after you get a flat. I got a flat with tubeless and I now have to run tubes. If I want to buy a tubeless setup I have to buy the stans plus a tire, making it a $75-85 conversion.
That's very ture BFS Dude, if you don't have tubeless ready tires it's not cheap at all. But, even at that price point I think it's worth it to consider!
Ritchey comp rizer 740mm alloy handlebar 24€. Wake 40mm stem. 10€ on amazon. Never let me down. A bit too responsive for agrressive fast riding but for more flowy trails with some technical terrain absolutely sufficient
I guess I'm luck the entity parts I have fit me really well. Just that the seat creaks a lot. I don't feel like going tubeless though. Maybe I'll try when I run out of tubes. The trails here don't really give punctures since they're so muddy, the 2 times I punctured my tire so far weren't on the trail . I'm gonna go ride my bike now
I'm looking to upgrade my handlebars and I'd like to know if it's worth spending 75 bucks on a renthal fat bar or just 30 on some generic brand handlebar
It all depends - If you have a nicer bike or plan to buy one in the next year or two then the Renthal bars are a great choice. They'll last for years and you can put them on whatever new bikes you get. But, there's nothing wrong with a cheaper bar too!
Daily MTB Rider I'm 14 and have an xc hardtail that I got a couple months ago and I'm looking to upgrade. I was thinking of buying new tires, converting tubeless and switching my handlebars, stem and possibly my grips. Just wanted to know if the extra 45 dollars was worth it
Hi Josh. Thanks for the tips. Just found your site, already have added it to my biking group. If you ever find yourself in Germany there are an infinite trails system and downhill rides
Go from double or triple speed to single speed. Depending on brand/type you use will cost around 100 euro on average but will transform your bike. You will loose some weight and loose so high or low range but shifting is s comfortable and linear.
Great video. Just got back into riding again. I have a 2001 Trek 6500. Instead of dumping a bunch of money I dont have into a new bike I have been upgrading. Thanks for some more advice. Going tubeless and saddle are on my list.
KyFirearmsChannel Those are great upgrades to add to an older bike! I love that you’re using what you have instead of dropping a bunch of money (it’s the rider that makes the bike, not the opposite). Be on the look out for a video of ripping older bikes soon!
When I buy a used bike or new under 1k, these are my upgrades: Tires, pedals, stem then forks. Buy a bike you can afford, don't buy a cheap GT to upgrade $$$ later. Love GT frames, hate the shit parts on them. Find them used for nothing, and find parts on Kijijii for chips.
Not a totally cheap upgrade but pedals, alot of entry level or "cheaper" mountain bikes have crappy plastic pedals that are pretty slippy, grab some raceface pedals or the new crankworx stamp for like 40 to 50 quid and you'll see a world of difference (If you ride flats ofc)
When Tubeless blow out and you're 100 miles away from anything, you might think about carrying a spare tube to get you home. Your little frame pump will not fill a tubeless tire that has blown... Not enough air volume..
Defiantly an upgrade in some people's mind, but others aren't huge fans of ovals. I've always run a normal chainring because I've never tried an oval or seen the huge benefit of them. But, you think it's worth it Ken?
I know this is a few years old, but if you own or have access to a 3D printer, you can print those fenders for super cheap. A couple hours, and about 50 cents worth of plastic, and you'll have yourself one of them
I totally agree Matthias, the only problem is even the low end composite pedals are 50 bucks, which isn't necessarily cheap. I'll keep it in mind for my next upgrade video!
adam garrett I usually stand up on my bike. 1. It's a better workout. 2. It's much safer for going downhill. 3. Most of the tricks (street riding for example) are done standing.. But yes if you ride long (any) distances it is much more efficient sitting down, therefore a good seat is needed for best comfort.
Impactful upgrades can be dependent on the type of bike you have but I have an older Santa Cruz Tallboy and adding a dropper post and converting to a single chain ring were my best upgrades. Also, buy a good pair shoes and dont ride in your Nikes.
Hey! Just getting into the MTB world, great vids. #2 can be made even cheaper because its fully possible to DIY the mudguard in 10-15min! Cheers man, keep it up!
It may be because I hit refresh 34,999 times...... You know how it goes though! Maybe next time I'll make a video that gets 350,000 views and maybe a hundred will sub 😂
Come on, this is a ten-a-penny production and content, kinda stuff that is exclusively for family and friends. People know they're better off with, SBHs and GMBN, can't waste your time on random TH-camrs with no credibility, like I said, they're ten-a-penny.
i love race face products other than their BB. i have a run race face atlas bars, pedals and seat. want to do the cranks too but only have turbines. they look so good.
At 5:04 Josh notes "Nothing will transform your riding than a good pair of bars". Good one, but I think it's starts at the source...a great saddle. If your booty ain't happy, you ain't happy. Tubeless, new handlebars, pedals, stems, fenders, et al - none of those matter if you're uncomfortable on your bike.
Bossman, just a suggestion on maintenance and how to keep my bike like new 😩. Bc i was riding on walmart bikes, but fell in love with riding and got me a 2014 airborne toxin ( used) my first pro bike i like to call it 😎
Valve stems, tape, and sealant, same price. I can't speak for downhill or super low psi, but I have been beating the crap out on mine on a heavy trail bike and loving it :D Basic double walled rims and stock tires. Running 35~psi for weeks.
I ride my bike on the street a lot and as I’m I kid I ride to school and ride to the trials and just find putting a new tube in easier then converting to tubeless
because local bike shops don't support you. they often give bad workmanship, don't do the work properly, charge a lot of money. two way street. you can't support them if they don't support you. they only see you as business and you should only see them as business.
@@sultanabran1 words of truth right there. I buy what I can locally but were I live, the bike shops don't carry much selection and are overpriced. Not to mention if you're not a bike snob, most shops treat you like a nobody and rush your business out the door basically.
The hardest part for me is clothes and pads so I have had to order some riding gear. I love my LBS and it's hard to know they just don't bbn have what makes me happy I have couple dedicated shops though one of them is full of bike snobs. So unfortunately I do order my parts off the interweb if I cannot find it locally like break bleeding kits never in stock yet they always have the oils. Weird even funnier is bike stands are never on display in my LBS always special order items.
1# 0:48 Race Face Crank Boots
2# 1:23 Mucky Nutz Fenders
3# 2:06 Grips
4# 2:28 Saddle
5# 4:41 Bars & Stems
Thanks for the easy guide me amigo!
ky4enceTV Thanks Bruddah
Nice now i dont have to watch the video 😀😀
Cush core!
Not the hero we deserved, but the hero we needed
Don't overlook the best reason to run a mudguard, to protect the fork and headset.
I run the two long blade mudguards on my forks on muddy days, my boxxers are worth more than the truck I use to haul my bike I want to keep them nice.
Grips are a big improvement. I got lock-ons recently and it made my bike feel so much sturdier and better.
That's so true Char. That little change can make or break your riding experience!
I'm still running tubes, but I don't ever have issues with them so I don't feel the need to go to tubeless. Maybe someday...
I totally hear you man! Maybe next time you have a flat you can look at the cost to switch over!
Daily MTB Rider Yeah, definitely. I am looking at getting a new bike hopefully not too far from now so that's probably a good time to switch over. Is tubeless lighter than tubes?
Lot of downsides with tubeless especially when you change tyres, leaks or it explodes out of the back.
Although this is true, the positives list is much longer than the negatives when you're set-up properly.
In still running tubes roo....however I'm really new into MTBing, and my tires get flat very easily, but before I upgrade my tires I need to upgrade my whole bike lol.
Pedals cheap and easy and with the right pair makes a big difference in confidence on the bike
That's so true Greg, the only bummer is a nice pair of pedals can get expensive!
Daily MTB Rider RaceFace Chesters are under $50 and have pins that can be replaced which isn't crazy but I rode Odyssey Twisted pedals for almost 3 years and they are under $20 on amazon. With a little research you can get a good set for a reasonable price.
In order of my biggest bang for the buck upgrades for MY MTB ride:
* Grips. Try & play around with several. My preference are the new Ergon GA3 series.
* Flat pedal upgrade. I tried out a few high-value MFGs; Race Face Chester & (near identical) Fooker. Made a huge improvement = greater increase in surface area.
* Tubeless tires = absolutely.
* Most may have this already but a dropper post IS MANDATORY in my personal opinion.
* Knowledge! Read & watch as much local trail info, "dos & don'ts" info, and local group rides info. Then go practice!
Super great points man! Thanks for sharing!
Another great video, tubeless all the way. I have an older 09 Stumpjumper and I purchased the kit at REI for under 50.00 money well spent. I live in New England and there are a lot of rocks. Another upgrade which was more but a true game changer was a dropper post I purchased on Amazon for about 140.00 made by DNM. Love it. Take care.
Tubeless is a great upgrade and so is that DNM dropper. I actually had one on an older bike and it was great! Thanks for the reminder of how good they are!
I put gorilla tape on the bottom tube to protect against small rocks and the wear of my brake lines. I also stuck some skateboard grips tape on all of my levers so my fingers never slip. These little differences help a lot!
Great video! You should do 5 more expensive upgrades! Pedals, dropper post, a new wheel set so on and so forth. Keep them coming!
jake cooper great idea Jake! I’ll keep that in mind as I make more videos!
Daily MTB Rider your channel is going to go gang busters. You always take the time to reply to your viewers. Really refreshing for those big players.
I have been riding a long time and never seen crank boots. So awesome for my new carbon cranks, thanks!
No problem Malcolm, they are a cheap way to protect your bike well!
I think the biggest difference when riding was using clipless pedals.
I paid around 100€ for crankbrothers doubleshot 1 (which are cool because you have flat and clipless pedals in one) and some Shimano shoes.
I would say you can go clipless for 70€ and in the mountainbikeworld that is actually quite cheap
Great point my friend!
Bash guard / chain guide ! 1up components are awesome bits of kit on the cheap !
Those are great cheap upgrades Nathan and the totally make a difference! Thanks for sharing.
My top 5 : Seat, tires, cockpit, pedals and grips.
Main reason you use those “mucky nutz fenders” is to stop mud and debris from hitting your fork stanchions. Means they don’t get scratched and keeps the seals from shitting out as fast. The less mud in the face is a little bonus.
Totally agree with you Louis! Keeping your bike/fork healthy is priority #1! But, I have to admit the mud out of my face and gopro is a close second 😂! Thanks for watching!
Daily MTB Rider it’s alright I completely agree with the rest would have loved a video like this when I brought my bike keep up the good work!
A better saddle is a good tip but your fit advice was maybe not the best.
I went through a handful of saddles at random before researching the subject and learning to measure my “sit bones”. Choosing the right saddle (WTB Speed V) after that was a breeze and made a huge difference in comfort on rides longer than 12 or so miles.
I did 22 seriously steep miles on an ultra narrow selle Italia and I thought I was never going to sit down again after that (I had no chamois either).
Great sound quality by the way!
No chamois is deadly! And you are spot on with your sit bone measurement! Thanks for sharing!
The greatest added benefit of the Mucky Nutz fender is keeping the crud, grime, grit and mud off my FORK stanchions. I don't care about getting dirty. And I'm going to say...SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL BIKE SHOPS! Buying on-line is convenient, it can be cheaper, but we'd be nowhere without the local shop heroes.
So true of stanchions and you all better support your local bike shops!
Goat Rides Bikes Yes, the biggest advantage of the small mudguard is the fork protection I cannot ride without them. $10 is a rip-off though, DIY costs nothing.
Btw what if your local bike shop is a crap? I won’t spend a dime in the ones around me, I don’t let them touch my bikes. The good ones that are capable to adapt, provide good service and value to the customers will be fine. The rest can complain about the internet but it will not take them anywhere...
Goat Rides Bikes true that, I got my first MTB (current) there
This is why I go to my shop whenever I have an issue I can't fix myself. I just don't have all my tools yet.
Yeah my dhr tires pick grit up like glue.
Great video. The quality of the videos you make is amazing. Keep up the amazing work.
Jakov Ivanovski thanks man! I️ love making videos for people to enjoy!
Daily MTB Rider No problem. You deserve it :)>
I use mud hugger fenders. They are really nice fenders because they keep stuff out of my face my chest and off my bike
True true and true - all great reasons to use them!
Two of the first things I did for my admittedly cheap MTB was upgrade the saddle and stem/bars. The saddle that came with mine was almost like a comfort-bike type saddle; so I swapped it from another bike in my stable. Cheap fix and problem solved. The stem that came with mine was way far forward and the bar was not very wide. I bought a much shorter Hussefelt stem and added a bar that was wider and had a bit more rise. Now when I'm working an incline it just takes a slight tug to pop the front wheel up and over. Anyway, thanks for sharing your thoughts on upgrades. I may just check out those Mucky fenders. At that price it's almost a no brainer to at least try them out.
Those are them same two upgrades (bars and stem) I do on all my bikes! And click the link in my description, it really is a no brainer
how about a set of raceface chester flats? super cheap and way better than stock flats
Great point! I'd say that's a solid next upgrade!
Daily MTB Rider sorry if it’s been said already. I just came across this. That was my first upgrade almost immediately after the first couple of rides. $45 on Amazon
Comprehensive vid & good suggestions.
Now, put down the mouse and stop in to your LBS!!
These guys are pros and love what they do.
Yes, a few bux more but shop loyalty goes a long way.
Most good shops have a saddle demo program where you can demo as many seats as you need until you find the perfect style & size and, the demo cost will (usually) apply to the purchase price.
And yes, ride your bike every day!!!
Such a great reminder - support your Local Bike Shop!!!
135mm saddles come stock on a lot of bikes. A lot of folks dont have sit bones that narrow and end up slipping off one side of the saddle. Saddle width isnt the end all for picking a comfortable saddle but it's good to have a saddle that is at least as wide as your sit bones. Otherwise great list!
Can see this channel getting big! Keep at it mate!
Thanks Arthur! That means a ton and I'll keep working to get there!
@@DailyMTBRider foreshadowing
This channel is going to be big, calling it at 100 subs.
Ethan H. You’re too kind man, thanks for the complement! DM me your address on Instagram and I’ll float you some free stickers!
Ethan H. 175 gained already
It's been growing like a wild fire the last few days! Thanks for all the love guys!
Good luck to ya mate all the best wishes
Same here you will be big!
I want to go tubeless on my timberjack and my NS majesty. I have done all the other upgrades besides crank boots.
Tubeless is such a great upgrade. You won't regret it!
The saddle that came with my spesalized stumpjumper is extremely comfortable
Loved the video man, keep putting in the hard work and you're going to be big!
Thanks a lot Zack!
I love the stock saddle on the trek Roscoe eight it is the perfect combination of slim, sleek looks and extreme comfort.
The Raleigh Tokul 3 is a great starter platform for a bike
Very true! It's a rad bike!
Good tips man! I just ordered the Race Face Ride bars for my project bike. I'm super excited to see how it transforms my bike.
I think you'll love them Kyle!
I just upgraded my stem and got a race face atlas bar. Not only do I fit on my bike a little better (mostly due to the stem) but I definitely have more control when I'm fishtailing in wet snow. Can't wait for summer!!
What stem did you get? Happy with your setup?
Fork upgrades (though not universally applicable): replace the (likely ill-matched to your weight) coil spring with an air spring, or change the air spring's travel for slacker (or steeper) geometry.
I totally agree with you Paul, but we both know forks are in no way cheap. I actually upgraded the fork on my Tokul 3 and have loved the new feel!
No, I'm talking about a new air-spring for the fork you have. I replaced the coil spring on my XC bike with an air spring for around $40. ENORMOUS difference! I also just bought a 140 mm air shaft to replace my 130 mm for $35, and I'm looking forward to the slacker geometry.
Got ya Paul! Sorry I missed that. Yes, the right coil for your weight/riding makes a huge difference! Also air selves are a great option. Thanks again for your suggestions!
This content is interesting and honestly much more entertaining than gmbn and their repetitive tops 10s
Thanks so much Chihiro! That means a ton!
Mucky nuts fender also protects the fork seals from mud and debris which will help extend the life of your fork.
Brandon Owens I completely forgot to mention that Brandon! Thanks for the reminder of the added benefit!
Slime makes tubeless tubes. They are inner tubes that come with sealant in them, and they run $12-17 dollars a piece
LMAO @3:25 "And smaller you go the more universal fit you're gonna get." Idk if it's the weed or what but that damn line was pretty epic! I have a very crude sense of humor lol
lol my bike has probably the weirdest setup ever...
bike: 2015 spec. pitch comp 650b (size s)
fork: 2016 120mm rockshox pike rct3
headset: brand x
stem: stock 60mm
bars: 740mm renthal fatbar lite 20mm rise
grips: spec. sip grips
front brake: tektro auriga with 203mm shimano rt66 rotor
rear brake: shimano deore m615 with metallic ice tech pads and a 180mm rt66 rotor
rear wheel: mavic crossride
front wheel: mavic crossride ftsx
tires: maxxis minion dhr 2/dhf 2.3 maxxterra with exo casing
saddle/seatpost: stock
cranks: raceface chester
chainring: 32t rf narrow wide
pedals: wellgo alu flats
derailleur: shimano deore xt m772
cassette: 11-36 shimano hg400
shifter: shimano altus
that's defiantly an interesting build you got there! But you know what the best part about it is, it shows a little bit about who you are! Thanks for sharing a go ride your bike!
Daily MTB Rider thanks!
jaakko200987654321 hey man I have a specialized rockhopper comp and was looking at some shocks ..how you like the ones you have?
The bars and stem I run is renthal apex 31mm and renthal fatbar 31.8mm clamp, 35mm rise and 780mm width and I love it even if its a little bit pricey (160€)
I'd say pedals and tires should be on the list too. Also if you have mechanical brakes, upgrading to hydro is big. Even cheap hydros are wayyy better than mechanical brakes and the install is stupid easy
mostly noticable upgrade i did on my bike (2005 Stump Jumper) was an shorter stem and wider handlebar...it really does the difference in the ride quality and handling....
It makes such a big difference! Thanks for sharing what upgrade made the biggest difference for you Mega Jaxx!
Love my Norco, old and new. They've all had long stems. They go to friends. A short stem and long handle bars even on a 26er. Let's you stand over the bars and control that bad puppy.
lol...grips are one of the first upgrades for sure. price point isn't a determining factor when it comes to grips from the factory...even at the $5k price point I still had to swap grips to the ones I like. Nice video. Keep up the grind. If you ever hit the Tulsa area let me know and we shall ride
So true - grips are super personal. And I'll hit you up if I'm ever in Tulsa!
Yeah definitely a personal choice. I ride odi ruffians. Have been for years. Nothing else feels right. So that's always the first thing when I get a new bike.
sdg mtn saddle is nice
That's very true! Thanks for the suggestion!
Can you make a video on how to change your handlebars?
I may one day, but I think there’s a ton of videos on how to do that already
The thing with tubeless is that it's very expensive after you get a flat. I got a flat with tubeless and I now have to run tubes. If I want to buy a tubeless setup I have to buy the stans plus a tire, making it a $75-85 conversion.
That's very ture BFS Dude, if you don't have tubeless ready tires it's not cheap at all. But, even at that price point I think it's worth it to consider!
Ritchey comp rizer 740mm alloy handlebar 24€.
Wake 40mm stem. 10€ on amazon.
Never let me down. A bit too responsive for agrressive fast riding but for more flowy trails with some technical terrain absolutely sufficient
Thanks for letting us know Calvin! I've always been curious about those cheaper Amazon components, but now I know from you they're worth a buy!
Daily MTB Rider the only issue was that the bolts got rusty yesterday when i had a long ride in the rain.
I guess I'm luck the entity parts I have fit me really well. Just that the seat creaks a lot.
I don't feel like going tubeless though. Maybe I'll try when I run out of tubes.
The trails here don't really give punctures since they're so muddy, the 2 times I punctured my tire so far weren't on the trail .
I'm gonna go ride my bike now
Such a great video with so many helpful tips! I'm putting my laptop away and hitting the trail!
That's to goal is to get out there and ride!
Love the crank boots, they've come in handy on the rocky gnar of Sothern Arizona
They're great anywhere man, but especially over rocky areas! Thanks for watching!
I'm looking to upgrade my handlebars and I'd like to know if it's worth spending 75 bucks on a renthal fat bar or just 30 on some generic brand handlebar
It all depends - If you have a nicer bike or plan to buy one in the next year or two then the Renthal bars are a great choice. They'll last for years and you can put them on whatever new bikes you get. But, there's nothing wrong with a cheaper bar too!
Daily MTB Rider I'm 14 and have an xc hardtail that I got a couple months ago and I'm looking to upgrade. I was thinking of buying new tires, converting tubeless and switching my handlebars, stem and possibly my grips. Just wanted to know if the extra 45 dollars was worth it
I'd say it's not that much of a jump up from a 45 dollar pair of bars. And that way you have a few more bucks for the other upgrades you're doing
Pedals are a good upgrade, Subscribed!
Very true Danimal, too bad the best cheap ones I've found are still $50! Thanks for the sub man!
Hi Josh. Thanks for the tips. Just found your site, already have added it to my biking group. If you ever find yourself in Germany there are an infinite trails system and downhill rides
Great to hear Andrew! And I’ll definitely hit you up if I’m over in Germany!
Good tips! You should do your top 3 pedal recommendations since most bikes don't come with pedals.
Thanks Mike, I defiantly want to do a video about the best cheap pedals on the market!
Go from double or triple speed to single speed. Depending on brand/type you use will cost around 100 euro on average but will transform your bike. You will loose some weight and loose so high or low range but shifting is s comfortable and linear.
Great video. Just got back into riding again. I have a 2001 Trek 6500. Instead of dumping a bunch of money I dont have into a new bike I have been upgrading. Thanks for some more advice. Going tubeless and saddle are on my list.
KyFirearmsChannel Those are great upgrades to add to an older bike! I love that you’re using what you have instead of dropping a bunch of money (it’s the rider that makes the bike, not the opposite). Be on the look out for a video of ripping older bikes soon!
When I buy a used bike or new under 1k, these are my upgrades: Tires, pedals, stem then forks. Buy a bike you can afford, don't buy a cheap GT to upgrade $$$ later. Love GT frames, hate the shit parts on them. Find them used for nothing, and find parts on Kijijii for chips.
That's a good upgrade plan Joe! Let me know how it goes!
I have a feeling that your channel will blow up soon
Richard Bug Thanks Richard! My goal is to just keep putting out helpful content and get people stoked on riding!
what about plastic things to protect from scratches?
Not a totally cheap upgrade but pedals, alot of entry level or "cheaper" mountain bikes have crappy plastic pedals that are pretty slippy, grab some raceface pedals or the new crankworx stamp for like 40 to 50 quid and you'll see a world of difference (If you ride flats ofc)
When Tubeless blow out and you're 100 miles away from anything, you might think about carrying a spare tube to get you home. Your little frame pump will not fill a tubeless tire that has blown... Not enough air volume..
So true Rob! That’s why I always carry a spare even though I run tubeless!
The best upgrade I have done so far to my bike are better tires. Usually MTB's come with cheap tires.
That's very true Eric - they make a big difference!
Another relatively cheap upgrade is oval chain ring. $15-70 depending on your drive train.
Defiantly an upgrade in some people's mind, but others aren't huge fans of ovals. I've always run a normal chainring because I've never tried an oval or seen the huge benefit of them. But, you think it's worth it Ken?
i think its worth to give it a try. Especially for how cheap you can get them.
Good hydration system. Sucks riding thirsty.
1x gearing, narrow wide chainring plus a Sunrace wide range cassette, sell on the bits you don’t want.
Not the cheapest upgrade, but selling your old parts makes it much easier on the wallet! Thanks for the great tips Simon!
I know this is a few years old, but if you own or have access to a 3D printer, you can print those fenders for super cheap. A couple hours, and about 50 cents worth of plastic, and you'll have yourself one of them
New pedals can make a huge difference. It's the only point, next to your grips, where you actually are connected to the bike..
I totally agree Matthias, the only problem is even the low end composite pedals are 50 bucks, which isn't necessarily cheap. I'll keep it in mind for my next upgrade video!
take it you don't sit down on your bike
adam garrett I usually stand up on my bike. 1. It's a better workout. 2. It's much safer for going downhill. 3. Most of the tricks (street riding for example) are done standing.. But yes if you ride long (any) distances it is much more efficient sitting down, therefore a good seat is needed for best comfort.
Convert to a one-by. Best thing I've done so far!
Thanks for the tips. I subscribed and the main reason is because you said get off TH-cam, turn off computer and go ride. Good man!
Hi, I´am a beginner on the bike worl and would be very helpful if you show where goes the pieces you´re showing. Sorry for my english. Great video
I'd encourage you to look them up on Google -you'll find everything you need!
Impactful upgrades can be dependent on the type of bike you have but I have an older Santa Cruz Tallboy and adding a dropper post and converting to a single chain ring were my best upgrades. Also, buy a good pair shoes and dont ride in your Nikes.
Oh btw I have a 2017 raleigh tokul 3 also lol. Put some crank brothers stamp pedals on!
That's awesome! It's a great bike for the price!
Hey! Just getting into the MTB world, great vids.
#2 can be made even cheaper because its fully possible to DIY the mudguard in 10-15min!
Cheers man, keep it up!
How did 35,000 people watch this, and NOT sub!? 🤦
It may be because I hit refresh 34,999 times......
You know how it goes though! Maybe next time I'll make a video that gets 350,000 views and maybe a hundred will sub 😂
Big gay
Come on, this is a ten-a-penny production and content, kinda stuff that is exclusively for family and friends. People know they're better off with, SBHs and GMBN, can't waste your time on random TH-camrs with no credibility, like I said, they're ten-a-penny.
plenty of people watch youtube not logged in too
Why didn't u put Velcro to stop the cables rubbing on the frame it makes big scratches and good Velcro is around £5
That's a great upgrade Amaan and one I use on my bikes! I'll keep that in mind for my next video!
Subbed! Great channel
Thanks man! That means a lot!
0.5 tires when i got mine cross contry bike i had schwalbe thunder burt now i have continental trail king much better grip
I totally hear you, but unfortunately they aren't the cheapest thing to purchase.
true
i have bought two high roller II ,and its much cheaper then going tubeless which includes getting new rims and TR tires
What you call mucky nutz fenders are also called marsh guards
Also free stickers!? Where do I sign up?
jake cooper DM me your address on Instagram and I’ll send them your way!
Is it just me or does he love race Face.
max woodman 😂 it’s not just you! What can I say, raceface makes great products at an affordable price!
i love race face products other than their BB. i have a run race face atlas bars, pedals and seat. want to do the cranks too but only have turbines. they look so good.
Does a higher rise bar make your bike feel more playful?
I wouldn't say more playful - it's all about just finding a good fit for you!
great vid Josh, I will definitely get the crank boots and grips
Those two upgrades make a big difference!
Tokens/spacers for your suspension !!
That's a great cheap upgrade Manny! I would say though that I call that an essential over an upgrade.
At 5:04 Josh notes "Nothing will transform your riding than a good pair of bars". Good one, but I think it's starts at the source...a great saddle. If your booty ain't happy, you ain't happy. Tubeless, new handlebars, pedals, stems, fenders, et al - none of those matter if you're uncomfortable on your bike.
I ride my MTB as a commuter. I had 3 flats in the past year. ¿Is the convertion to tubeless worth the money?
Aldo YES
my bontrager bar was 30 bux. my kore stem was 60 bux.
DIY custom mod your frame look. stickers ,, spray paint , anything creative but avoid parts that are sensitive like bare cables , disk brakes
Bossman, just a suggestion on maintenance and how to keep my bike like new 😩. Bc i was riding on walmart bikes, but fell in love with riding and got me a 2014 airborne toxin ( used) my first pro bike i like to call it 😎
Only tips are to make sure to clean it and do a solid check of the bike before or after every ride!
Rim and tires do not have to be tubeless compatible to go tubeless ...
True - but then you'll be spending more money or having more issues!
True - but then you'll be spending more money or having more issues!
Valve stems, tape, and sealant, same price.
I can't speak for downhill or super low psi, but I have been beating the crap out on mine on a heavy trail bike and loving it :D Basic double walled rims and stock tires. Running 35~psi for weeks.
Nice stem got the same in white!!
I ride my bike on the street a lot and as I’m I kid I ride to school and ride to the trials and just find putting a new tube in easier then converting to tubeless
Why do you have to get everything online 🤦♂️ support local shops!
Totally agree Eric! That's why I'm now supporting a local shop that has a really great online presence!
Came here to say this. Supporting local shops will help give back to mountain biking in significant ways!
because local bike shops don't support you. they often give bad workmanship, don't do the work properly, charge a lot of money. two way street. you can't support them if they don't support you. they only see you as business and you should only see them as business.
@@sultanabran1 words of truth right there. I buy what I can locally but were I live, the bike shops don't carry much selection and are overpriced. Not to mention if you're not a bike snob, most shops treat you like a nobody and rush your business out the door basically.
The hardest part for me is clothes and pads so I have had to order some riding gear. I love my LBS and it's hard to know they just don't bbn have what makes me happy I have couple dedicated shops though one of them is full of bike snobs. So unfortunately I do order my parts off the interweb if I cannot find it locally like break bleeding kits never in stock yet they always have the oils. Weird even funnier is bike stands are never on display in my LBS always special order items.
Tubeless conversion super cheap!! (you just need the wheels and tires already which if you do why arent you alreadyrunning tubeless??)
Some people have what they need and still run tubes - crazy - I know!
This channel is sick
Jack Fisher thanks jack! And thanks for being a fan of the channel! Let me know if there’s any videos you’d like to see!
Great video bro
Thanks Aaradhya! That means a lot!
Thanx bro I am one of your biggest fan
I always fit a specialized Toupe saddle 142mm, costs £25, its comfy for me and its cheap
What about making a mud guard out of a school folder? I did mine and it cost me $1.50
Why the handlebar? Weight? Comfort? I'm super interested as to why?
what about those red dice valve caps???
How about new tyres? More traction ?
That’s a great upgrade, but it’s just not that cheap!
converting to tubeles, however, is
I converted to tubeless with non tubeless ready tires or rims and they are going strong
Great video bro and chifter set
Thanks man!