When the Li-Ion's cells are below 2,5-2,7V means this cell is pretty dead. The internal chemical structure is irreversibly destroyed. The internal resistance is growing. I doubt that they hold its charge... Don't they?
That's not always the case. It depends on what happens to the cell before the event. If the cell was overcharged and the electrolyte was boiled away then the cell chemical structure is irreversibly destroyed. If the cell was just simply discharged, it can still be revived. As long as this doesn't happen too often as this will also destroy the cell if this happens repeatedly. In both cases, the cell voltage is below 2.5V. In some cases, the cell was zero volt and I was still able to revive the cell to normal operating condition. So make sure you don't completely discharge your Li ion battery or it will die in just a few cycles.
Thank you for quick respond. I didn't know that, I might try to revive my Samsung Cells which I salvaged from other stuff. You are really kind and competent person!
Nice video. Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
I say that is what the manufactures want you to believe so you once again go into your pocket and buy their product UNNECESSARILY i might add! Read my post below if you want to rescue your dead 18650's!
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
My findings after running this test and a lot more investigation: This method appeared to work on one of my two dead batteries but one read a lot lower (around 3.4V) at the start. It turns out 1 cell in one of the batteries was completely dead, and the other battery had 4 out of 5 cells that were dead. I swapped out the one remaining good cell and put that into the battery with 4 good cells (all 5 read 3.4V each) and then just for good measure did the above (video) test again. That 18V battery is now perfect and pushes 20.2V! I have ordered 4 new batteries from gearbest fit about £12 so will solder these into the other dead pack and we should be good to go! That's a saving of around £90 for me! Thanks for the video!
Incredible. I did this to my eBike 36volt Li-Ion battery pack and it worked! I had not used it for a year and upon trying to charge it, the charger light stayed green and using a voltmeter showed me that it wasn't taking a charge at all. So I noticed that the Li-Ion cells were set up in banks, from bank 0 to bank 10. And I quickly could see that bank one of the PC Board terminal was the beginning of the positive side of all the cells and the bank 10 was the negative finishing part of the cells. So I found a 32 volt DC power supply and carefully connected to the positive and negative on the bank 0 and bank 10 of all the Li-Ion cells, and kept giving it bursts of 10 to 20 second bumps with the DC power supply, as I could see that the overall voltage of the whole eBike battery bank was increasing from 2.0 volts to over 15.0 volts! Then I eventually hooked the battery bank to the original eBike charger and at first the charger's LED was flashing RED and I thought that was a bad sign, because normally the LED is supposed to be SOLID RED when charging. But with a voltmeter hooked up to the Bank 0 and Bank 10, I could see that the charger itself was now bumping up the battery bank so it could charge normal... as the charger LED eventually turned SOLID RED after a few minutes, indicating that it was now charging the eBike battery bank normally again! You saved me from just about buying a new eBike battery bank! It's amazing and thank you for creating this video, you're a very wonderful person! God bless you.
Refreshingly clever and intuitive. I particularly liked the debunking theory why these companies, in general, deliberately design products with a designated lifetime which anyone can see, especially if you have lived many years and experienced the changes. Thanks very much for your video.
Thanks very much! I kept pulling the trigger after the drill stopped working and ended up discharging pack below the threshold voltage for the charger operation. I didn't know these things were so complex! All 5 cells ranged from .96 V to 1.2 V. I just used the spare battery (18V) to briefly charge the cells for abut 6 seconds each. That got them ranging from 2.6 V to 2.9 V. That was enough to allow me to charge them up. Appreciate the information!
I had two of these batteries that would not charge and they were both only 3-4 months old and not used that much. They were charged regularly. This method of boosting the individual cells worked for me. I only used a single battery instead of two batteries together to do the boosting. I boosted them for 20 seconds or so each. Now they work. Thank you. BTW, I used the charger of a laptop which puts out 19 DC volts. Alligator clips and a wire in the end of the laptop charger end and 19 volts right to the battery back for a few minutes to boost all the batteries before putting back in the charger.
Very nice job. I have some Ryobi batteries and they seem to be self discharged a lot. If I don't use them for a long time, they would self discharge to a point that my charger wouldn't recognize them any more. So time for boosting. I think the circuit board on the battery consumes (or should I say sucks power like a vampire) power when the battery is in storage. So you have to periodically take it out for charging even though you don't even use them.
thank you very much, I got a dead battery with a tool that wouldn't charge, I took it apart and charged it below the circuit board and it started working and charging!!! Plan B worked, just watch the polarity "double check the polarity on both batteries" mine was kind of backwards under the circuit board Just Saying.
Thank You very much! I do just repair two of mi batterys for Ryobi 18v. I do appreciate your help! God Bless You! José M De León/ Tampico, Tam. México. 04-11-2021
Can you use an 18v good Robyi battery that is not disassembled to do the short initial charge on the individual cells of the disassembled battery. Or does the source need to be around 4-5 volts? How about a USB charger? That is 5 volts so could that be used to initiate the short charge if using a full 18v battery not a good idea?
At 13:30 as he's measuring voltage off the different legs of the terminal, It's basically the batteries 20 overall volts (total pack current) into 4 or 5 equal groups. That's necessary to connect all the individual series groups to the BMS. Think of a long Mag light flashlight where you stack up end to end D cell batteries to make the flashlight work. You connected the D batteries in series end to end. Now, if you were to charge those batteries (Never try to recharge Alkaline batteries...This is for simplicity to understand BMS) the common old school way is to connect positive charger wire to the positive end of the stack of d batteries and the negative to the other end. Sure you charge the batteries but there's a toll put on all the center batteries and especially the very center one. They have to work charging and discharging over and over more than the batteries towards the end of the stack of d cells. Eventually one or more middle batteries will short out and go dead. causing the entire stack of batteries to be useless. A BMS divides up into smaller groups and sends them all separate equal slow charge that preserves their health and no more middle batteries going bad/. Final thought....If you come across a laptop with a dead battery pack and it uses 18650 style cells, you now know how to repair it!. Its a middle battery that died....change it and the pack is like new! Your welcome.
Hi Vuaeco, I admire your can-do spirit in reviving this battery, but I do have a few comments: - Unless the circuit board contained in the battery has balancing circuitry built into it (which I doubt), while you are in the process of recharging the battery you should balance it (get all the cells to the exact same voltage). Otherwise when you throw it back on the Ryobi charger, which will take it up to 21V, some cells will be less than fully charged and some will be overcharged which can be very dangerous / a fire hazard. - Depending on the cell chemistry type, it may be dangerous to recharge Li-Ion cells that have been discharged beyond ~2.5V. In this case, the cathode may break down and when recharging the cell may experience thermal runaway. This can be extremely dangerous. For a battery like this with cells below 2V, I'd either replace -all- cells in the battery or just dump it.
Lmao, I kept having to rewind especially at the end because of the Ryobi "conspiracy board" I'll make sure to buy stock in Ryobi, thanks for the insider tip!!
Hi very good video info, I have the same type of power pack which fail to charge , since it was a few years old, I manage to change the whole of set batteries , no doubt it works well , the power gets discharge fast upon using , what could be the problem can you help.. sammy
Great job! A question would be the same procedure to revive a dead Ryobi P107 Li-Ion battery and a Ryobi P118 charger, Since I have these accessories. regards
The board might try to keep all the voltages the same when charging, thus all 5 will be 4.02 volts for example. It might also shut everything down if there is a short like 100 amps. But it is there probably for show like you say, if people opened up the battery and there was nothing there, everybody could fix the battery. Might even have a kill battery circuit so after 300 uses it kills the battery.
Yes, you need to bring the voltage up just enough to be a discharged battery, so a charger will recognize and charge it. This means only a few seconds per battery to boost it up to a normal discharged level... ready to be charged. This works with Ni-MH batteries too. And probably with other types of rechargeable batteries.
Great video - yes the boards fail - I have 50/50 success on repairs of these battery packs. When you put 2 batteries one low charge and one full charge they try to equalise if both are healthy and similar they will end up with the same charge if left long enough.... thats why when one cell fails the others try to equalise and either overwork the good ones or make them fail.
Did you know that most 18650 lithium batteries when discharged below like 1.4 volts the cell goes dead and is considered done. But here's a trick.... You can use a Harbor Freight Blue handled mini flat screwdrivers blade and squeeze it in under the positive terminals "Crown" shaped terminal. Once the blade is under the crown gently and slowly apply downward pressure to underneath the "crown...But LISTEN for a "CLICK" hard to hear and if you push too much you'll rupture the batteries bladder and liquid smelly caustic lithium will leak! So just go slow and listen for the slight "click"..... remove the screwdriver and check the cell for voltage.....if it is still dead retry clicking the battery...80% of 18650 batteries have a reset button under the crown. That's all your doing is resetting the breaker on the cell.
I'm only guessing but you could have omitted trying to jump it with the D wall battery put the case back on it and put it directly in the charger and I think it would have charged the only reason and again I'm guessing that it won't charge us because it's below the 5 volters at 0 bolts but once it gets above the 5 V I think that the charger would go ahead and charge it up
I regularly build projects using lipo 18650 batteries recovered from junk laptop batteries. I usually find that only one or two cells in a battery pack are dead beyond recovery, the rest give me a lot of life. The circuitry in that battery pack is to monitor the batteries to insure they do not discharge too far and ruin the cells, or over charge and again ruin the cells and starting a fire. Recovering the packs using your method seems to be a good idea, if you are lucky, however doing this if the battery happens to be damaged can cause an explosion, and indeed a fire. In fact it can be fatal so care must be taken when working with lipo batteries.
Your concerns are reasonable. Care should always be taken when you deal with any kind of batteries, not just Li-ion. But if you use 4.2V 18650 cells to charge the same cells, it would be highly unlikely to cause any damage. The charging cells are from 4.2V and charging the same cells at 4.2V max so it will never ever overcharge anything. Especially when you only do it for about 15-20 seconds.
I have a duff battery thats saying its dead now i have a 18v lithium battery and i have just tested the voltage of the battery and its coming up at 13.75 and when i charge it it wont charge now i have just ordered croc clips to try and boost the charge from the charger to the battery circuit board
I did this last weekend to revive the ryobi pack. I got it to charge but only charges to 12v. 3 cells read 4v and the other 2 cells are dead. Can’t get them to take any voltage
I've got a P108 battery that I'm trying to repair. Having the opposite issue as you. Testing cells, they're 4v each, 20.4v total. At the connection points, it's 0v. Charger doesn't show defective battery. It shows full. Test light on battery itself shows dead. I'm thinking the circuit board needs to be jumped to reset the over discharge circuit. Any ideas?
I think your circuit board has a pre-programmed premature death by Ryobi. Their plan is working, beautifully! What they are saying is, you should buy a new battery! But seriously, the circuit board was over engineered and has so many electronics components ready to fail at any time. If you have another working pack, try to remove the cells from the dead pack and put it on a working pack to see if they work?
vuaeco I'm not sure I want to risk messing up another battery pack. Going to try a few more things. I've had good luck with these over the years. First that went bad. Thanks.
I am only guessing but I think you could have omitted the dewalt step put the cap back on the thing and put it in a charger and there's a small chance it would have charged the only thing is that can't charge a battery with 0 V on it or below like 5 V but once you get above 5 I think it might possibly charge and again I'm only guessing
How are they in parallel? Can you parallel jump a ni-cad to a lithium ion battery? Do you always need to recharge the Ryobi battery this way because of the faulty circuit board? If the Robi larger is so large, why do they need so much circuitry in their battery?
1) Parallel reviving a NiCad just connects the positive from a charged cell to positive of the drained one, and same for the negative. The individual cells are not wired in parallel in the pack. 2) You should NEVER recharge the Ryobi Li-Ion packs this way. The circuit board did not fail, it did exactly what it was supposed to do, prevent charging the cells because once they have discharged too low it becomes a fire hazard to recharge them. 3) It needs the circuitry to protect people from a fire hazard but some fools circumvent that and accept the fire risk. It is very irresponsible for this video to suggest it's a safe thing to do. Is he going to buy you a new home or work truck if yours catches on fire? How about burns to loved ones? Ryobi didn't put that circuit board in for shits and giggles, it's supposed to do exactly what it did.
You do not have to charge each battery separately in the cluster. Just hook up a simple car battery charger (12V) like C-Tek charger to the two extreme poles (at two ends) in the cluster, maintaining polarity, for 15-20 seconds and you are done.
How would you connect a good Ryobi battery like this one to a dead sliding style battery like your DeWalt one, as in your first method without taking the Ryobi apart since it can't use metal clips to slide in?
you mean the metal clips or the alligator clips? Alligator clips are from Harbor Freight tools. Metal clips are salvaged from various hardware. Make sure you use thick wires though because they might get real hot and melt the plastic on the wires. The thicker the wires the less heat it would generate.
i love you man. i agree, most american businesses are conspiring in some way. they all lead to MONEY! at least when they go bad, we can take the cells and use for ebikes :)
you can buy neodymium magnets or battery trays or even build your own. but beware of the inherent dangers that do come with lithium ions even after successfully reassembling battery pack there's a good chance of accidentally shorting out after a pack is disassembled.
my ryobi battary refuses charging, each cell has about 3.85v to 3.9v. Between all batteries it is 19.54, and with the circuit board it is 17,95v... but it still wont charge or work on my powertools. some good advice or what the problem is ??
Your cells are about 75% full. They should work. Try to hook up just the positive and negative terminals only to something else like a motor or an incandescent bulb to see if it works. If it works with something else other than your tool then your tool might have a problem. Or you might have a premature preprogrammed death of the circuit board.
i just connected it without the circuit board and the tool worked fine,, so it must be circuit board.. Is there anything that can be repaired or can I throw it in the trash?
If you're skillful at electronics, you can work out what component is dead on that circuit board and replace it. However, is it worth it to invest the time trying to diagnose and fix the problem of an old battery? I don't think so. I would just remove the cells and use them for something else as the cells are high discharge cells and you can basically use them for anything.
I have done this method and it seem to worked but after I check the voltage a few mins later, the voltage dropped back to nothing. I found that I had 2 cells charging at 4 or 5 volts and the others were barely 1 what did I do wrong?
The cells that drop voltage (after being charged this way) are dead. Good cells do not drop voltage. The cells that are being overcharged are because they have to raise the voltage to compensate for the dead cells to have the same total overall voltage.
Unfortunately, NiCad batteries once go bad, not worth fixing, in my opinion. A NiCad cell is only 1.2V. To make a 20V pack, you will need about 16 cells. With that many cells in a pack, lots of things can go wrong. Once a pack is bad, it might not just one cell but multiple cells. A NiCad charger is also different than a Li-ion charger. You can discharge a NiCad battery to a very low voltage and can still charge your NiCad battery. So this method of reviving a Li-ion battery does not work with a NiCad battery because you can just throw your NiCad battery to a NiCad charger and it would charge just fine despite the fact that the battery voltage is low. However, once a NiCad battery is bad, the only way to revive it is to remove dead cells and replace with new cells. But then you'll have a mix of old cells (with memory effect) and new cells in the pack once fixed. That's still not a good way to fix it. That's why I don't think it's worth it to fix an old NiCad battery.
If you are likely to accidentally reverse the polarity, why don't you connect a diode between the Batteries using for charging, with the batteries being charged?
10 amp diodes rated at 1000 volts are available on EBay for less than 10 cents each. Spend a dollar and you will have 10 of them. 10 in parallel will handle 100 amps continuously and about 5000 amps surge... BUT; after considering your 'FUBAR' problem a second time; my diode idea would NOT solve your problem because the diode would be forward biased in your error condition and would not protect the uncharged battery at all. There are other ways to provide protection, but they would all be a lot more complicated...
A much safer solution to revive individual cells (the one I use) is a programmable power supply set to 4.2 volts and current limiting set to around 0.5 amp. If you don't have a programmable PSU then the next best solution would be a 6 to 12 volt incandescent bulb wired in series with the method shown above. Without a way to limit current, the method shown in this video is very dangerous, although ALL methods are dangerous and I don't recommend any of them unless you are prepared to handle a possible fire. NEVER charge them unattended.
hey vuaeco, I just put new cells in one of these. The battery charges correctly and holds charge at 20v but won't start any tools. Any ideas? I think the conspiracy board plot thickens.
Nope, I solved my issue. I incorrectly installed protected cells. So the cells themselves are switching off for high current demands. My external and internal voltages match.
Nice video! But is it a good idea or a bad idea to charge a battery directly with a source voltage without any special charging circuity in between? Also, you mentioned that the circuit board was 'on the way'. So I assume the board is on it's way out? Or about to become kaput? But yet, it appears to be working again all of a sudden? But, once again.... nice video!
I would not just hook up batteries to another without knowing the max current flow and battery tolerance of max current. They could blow up. I think I would do the math at least. I would use a lithium charger and just hook it to the battery.
what happens if you don't have another battery to boost each cell why can't you just use the Ryobi charger itself connected with the alligator clips to each battery cell and hold them on there for 10 or 20 seconds of Peace do I have to use a laptop battery?
There are a few problems using the Ryobi charger to boost each cell. First, the charger puts out 20V or more. Each cell is only 4.2V max. If you use a 20V charger to boost a 4.2V battery, you are taking a risk of exploding the battery. Second, most chargers have a ground terminal. It only turns on when it detects a ground terminal from the battery itself. So if you only use alligator clips for the positive and negative terminals, you won't turn on the charger. Finally, most chargers are called "intelligent" chargers. That means it only turns on and charges the battery when it senses a certain voltage coming from the battery say at least 14-15V. If the battery voltage is too low, the charger won't turn on.
the problem is I don't have a laptop battery could I use a spare laptop battery charger to charge each cell carefully not going over 4 volts cutting the laptop charger putting alligator leads on the positive and negative thank connecting that to each Ryobi cell
sorry for bothering you but how about using a cell phone power supply cell phone charger. I think those only put out low voltage. couldn't I just cut the cord and then put alligator clips on both sides making sure I have positive and negative. and then charge each cell
I think this would be perfect www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KYTZV2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475918313&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=3.7+volt+battery+charger let me know if this is okay to use to charge each cell. it's rated at 4.2 volts about half of a 600ma.. I would just have to connect an alligator clip to the positive and the negative of the power supply. and then do exactly what you said for each cell charging. but the question would be how long would it take to charge each cell? it look like you are method charged each cell in 10 seconds.. how long do you think it would take with this? they make other ones that have a higher amperage like 3600ma at 4.2volts..
The point in having the circuit board is to balance the charges on the batteries either individually or in pairs. If for some reason one of the batteries were to develop an internal short, which happens though infrequently , it will shut the board down so no charge can be accepted preventing overheating of that cell and a possible chain reaction with the others.. Unfortunately some Ryobi tools do not shut off at the low voltage cutoff and thus also render the battery as a unit unchangeable which can be reversed by the method you have shown. But you make a big and dangerous mistake calling this unnecessary or a conspiracy when the simple fact is that should any batteries fail Ryobi is more than happy to replace them during the warranty period. And should the failure be as a result of a cell shorting internally, you would be on your knees thanking the manufacturer that it didn't explode.
Did you watch the whole video or did you just only watch the very last part of the video where I talked about the "conspiracy theory"? The point of the circuit board to prevent both overcharging AND overdischarging. This board only prevents overcharging. If it fails at this, it will explode the very first time you charge it and you'll have no chance to overdischarge it. We won't have this conversation if that happens. And this video would never exist. It leaves the battery for dead when there's a phantom load. And that's the whole point.
What sort of a question is that? I watched the whole thing and your ending it with the conspiracy theory is nuts. Overcharging is protected via the Ryobi charging circuit in the charger. The on board circuit in the battery also prevents massive over discharge via protection diodes and series fets. So if you short the terminals, you kill the functionality of the battery without it overheating. There is also a thermocouple attached to the side of the 18650 battery which shuts the battery down. And just to be clear, I am talking about over discharge rates of higher then capacity amperage, not the low voltage cut off. Low voltage cutoff is a function designed into the tool. However if you use one plus1+ batteries in the older blue tools designed for nicads, you will drain the Li-ion below the threshold since they wont shut off. There are also a few of the Ryobi green 1+ tools which lack the low voltage cutoff, lights for instance, the heat glue gun so caution needs to be used to turn the device off. Leaving them running below the threshold won't cause the battery to explode but it will render the battery pack nonchargeable until you charge each cell in the battery pack above the threshold. Then and only then will it accept a charge.....and that is without exploding! Exploding the very first time you charge it? Wow. Do you have a statistic as to how many times this actually happened?
At 22:00, when you said the board lets the batteries get to 0 V on purpose to destroy the cells just to make you buy another battery... THATS HOW COMPANIES CONTINUE TO MAKE THEIR $$$$ If they built a better product with better electronics to properly monitor the voltages and to properly protect the cells, then they would not continue to make $$ of you, at that point the battery would charge 1000+ times allowing you to get your $$ worth... I had a Ryobi 18V 2.5ah battery that went "bad" per charger, i took it apart like you did and to find the cells were good, it was the board that was bad... So what a WASTE of perfectly good cells because the circuit board failed either due to cheap crap components, bad design on placement on the board, heat damage to board when recharging battery or heat damage to board when actually using the battery on devices that are high drain.... Either way, the board failed due to unknown reason... And what sucks is that we cant just go out and buy a new board from Ryobi because they don't even stock or make those boards, probably made in China and we will NEVER have a chance to fix it unless you know how it was designed..
Absolutely true. They do this for a purpose and it's called "planned (or pre-programmed) obsolescence. If they make it too durable, the entire US economy is going to collapse.
why its going down is because the other battery your using to charge it is draining so your draining the power from the other battery you should make other videos that dont include electronics
Please put an end to these stupid "Revive dead batteries by connecting them parallel" voodoo repair. All of these videos are the same. "I have seen it, i don't understand what is happening, so i do it too." You show in the video, that you have absolutly no clue what you are doing. With below 1 V your cells are dead. They are not empty, it is no fail function of the circuit board or charger. They are dead. They build cristal spikes, that can penetrate the separater and cause a thermal runaway. That means they can burn or explode out of nothing. So they are dangerous dead. We don't talk about a tooth brush AA battery. We talk about a high current lithium tool battery. The protection on your battery has done it's job to disconnect the cells from the connectors and make it unusable. Your radio fails to turn of on low battery. Discharge turn off is always done in the tool for safety reasons like circular saw break. Charge disconnect is sometimes done in the battery for safety like ryobi for NiCd compatibility. You simply try to trick the safety functions. That has nothing to do with revive or repair. Thats no charging you are showing. In battery technology there isn't even a term of what you are doing. Charging lithium has to be done with constant current. Deep discharged cells have to be charged with low current. In battery tools there are high power cells. These cells are allowed to deliver 20 to 30 A while discharging, continious. And around 100 A pulse. Allowed means the current is much higher when shorted. But the allowed charging current is only between 1 to 5 A. By connecting a fully charged battery parallel to a deep discharged battery the deep discharged one is kicked in the A** with around 100 A, while only around 2 A are allow for a healthy cells, around 0,5 A for deep discharged cells between 3,0 to 2,5 V and 0 A for your 1 V dead ones. With lower voltage difference the current gets lower and with the long cables the current is much less than 100 A, but to high. Use at least a 10 Ohm 5 W Resistor for single cells (3,6 V), a 50 Ohm 25 W Resistor for 18 V packs. Charging a battery from a battery can only done with lead acid batteries. They are self limiting. Thats why the jump start you try to imitate is less critical on cars, than on tool batteries.
hahahaha! It's not that. It's just that battery technology is still kind of 'primitive'. You'd think that in 2016 they would be able to make batteries that just keep working - regardless of how much we charge or discharge them etc.
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When the Li-Ion's cells are below 2,5-2,7V means this cell is pretty dead. The internal chemical structure is irreversibly destroyed. The internal resistance is growing. I doubt that they hold its charge... Don't they?
That's not always the case. It depends on what happens to the cell before the event. If the cell was overcharged and the electrolyte was boiled away then the cell chemical structure is irreversibly destroyed. If the cell was just simply discharged, it can still be revived. As long as this doesn't happen too often as this will also destroy the cell if this happens repeatedly. In both cases, the cell voltage is below 2.5V. In some cases, the cell was zero volt and I was still able to revive the cell to normal operating condition. So make sure you don't completely discharge your Li ion battery or it will die in just a few cycles.
Thank you for quick respond. I didn't know that, I might try to revive my Samsung Cells which I salvaged from other stuff. You are really kind and competent person!
My pleasure. Glad that helps.
Nice video.
Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
I say that is what the manufactures want you to believe so you once again go into your pocket and buy their product UNNECESSARILY i might add!
Read my post below if you want to rescue your dead 18650's!
*This battery reconditioning program exceeded my presumptions. It worked on any drill battery, several AA and AAA batteries, **batery.repair** and any camera battery. The steps are simple and the act itself is exciting to do. No matter what type of battery you`ve got, it is sure to function again!*
My findings after running this test and a lot more investigation:
This method appeared to work on one of my two dead batteries but one read a lot lower (around 3.4V) at the start.
It turns out 1 cell in one of the batteries was completely dead, and the other battery had 4 out of 5 cells that were dead.
I swapped out the one remaining good cell and put that into the battery with 4 good cells (all 5 read 3.4V each) and then just for good measure did the above (video) test again. That 18V battery is now perfect and pushes 20.2V!
I have ordered 4 new batteries from gearbest fit about £12 so will solder these into the other dead pack and we should be good to go! That's a saving of around £90 for me!
Thanks for the video!
Used 4AA batteries in series to top up 2 dead cells on a couple of Ryobi one+ batteries. Now charging Thank you very much😀
Incredible. I did this to my eBike 36volt Li-Ion battery pack and it worked!
I had not used it for a year and upon trying to charge it, the charger light stayed green and using a voltmeter showed me that it wasn't taking a charge at all.
So I noticed that the Li-Ion cells were set up in banks, from bank 0 to bank 10. And I quickly could see that bank one of the PC Board terminal was the beginning of the positive side of all the cells and the bank 10 was the negative finishing part of the cells.
So I found a 32 volt DC power supply and carefully connected to the positive and negative on the bank 0 and bank 10 of all the Li-Ion cells, and kept giving it bursts of 10 to 20 second bumps with the DC power supply, as I could see that the overall voltage of the whole eBike battery bank was increasing from 2.0 volts to over 15.0 volts!
Then I eventually hooked the battery bank to the original eBike charger and at first the charger's LED was flashing RED and I thought that was a bad sign, because normally the LED is supposed to be SOLID RED when charging.
But with a voltmeter hooked up to the Bank 0 and Bank 10, I could see that the charger itself was now bumping up the battery bank so it could charge normal... as the charger LED eventually turned SOLID RED after a few minutes, indicating that it was now charging the eBike battery bank normally again!
You saved me from just about buying a new eBike battery bank! It's amazing and thank you for creating this video, you're a very wonderful person! God bless you.
Wow! Just what I was looking for. Great detailed explanation. Will be trying this on one of my dead Ryobi batteries also. Thanks
I just revived two non charging Ryobi batteries in 5 min. using fully charged good Ryobi 18 volt battery. Thanks
Refreshingly clever and intuitive. I particularly liked the debunking theory why these companies, in general, deliberately design products with a designated lifetime which anyone can see, especially if you have lived many years and experienced the changes. Thanks very much for your video.
Thanks very much! I kept pulling the trigger after the drill stopped working and ended up discharging pack below the threshold voltage for the charger operation. I didn't know these things were so complex! All 5 cells ranged from .96 V to 1.2 V. I just used the spare battery (18V) to briefly charge the cells for abut 6 seconds each. That got them ranging from 2.6 V to 2.9 V. That was enough to allow me to charge them up. Appreciate the information!
I had two of these batteries that would not charge and they were both only 3-4 months old and not used that much. They were charged regularly. This method of boosting the individual cells worked for me. I only used a single battery instead of two batteries together to do the boosting. I boosted them for 20 seconds or so each. Now they work. Thank you. BTW, I used the charger of a laptop which puts out 19 DC volts. Alligator clips and a wire in the end of the laptop charger end and 19 volts right to the battery back for a few minutes to boost all the batteries before putting back in the charger.
Very nice job. I have some Ryobi batteries and they seem to be self discharged a lot. If I don't use them for a long time, they would self discharge to a point that my charger wouldn't recognize them any more. So time for boosting. I think the circuit board on the battery consumes (or should I say sucks power like a vampire) power when the battery is in storage. So you have to periodically take it out for charging even though you don't even use them.
It worked. I used a 9 volt battery and it only took a few seconds to go from .43 to 2.70. That was enough to get it charging. Thank you.
thank you very much, I got a dead battery with a tool that wouldn't charge,
I took it apart and charged it below the circuit board and it started working and charging!!!
Plan B worked, just watch the polarity "double check the polarity on both batteries" mine was kind of backwards under the circuit board Just Saying.
Gonna try this on 2 'dead' batteries I have in my workshop. I'll post how I get on. Thank you for the video! You may have just saved me £100!
KJ T b
Thank you for a very clear explanation of the ‘conspiracy’’ board, going to try it out on other batteries now
Thank You very much! I do just repair two of mi batterys for Ryobi 18v. I do appreciate your help! God Bless You! José M De León/ Tampico, Tam. México. 04-11-2021
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I just fixed two old batteries that I thought were broken!
You saved me. I revived three 9V lithium batteries, using your tip. Thank you !!!!!!
"Do it right, like Brain surgery. Do it wrong? F.U.B.A.R. "
My friend, I love your video. We got to hang.
Thank you so much I fixed my battery and its just like new!!!
Dude. You are the MAN.
Can you use an 18v good Robyi battery that is not disassembled to do the short initial charge on the individual cells of the disassembled battery. Or does the source need to be around 4-5 volts? How about a USB charger? That is 5 volts so could that be used to initiate the short charge if using a full 18v battery not a good idea?
At 13:30 as he's measuring voltage off the different legs of the terminal, It's basically the batteries 20 overall volts (total pack current) into 4 or 5 equal groups. That's necessary to connect all the individual series groups to the BMS.
Think of a long Mag light flashlight where you stack up end to end D cell batteries to make the flashlight work. You connected the D batteries in series end to end. Now, if you were to charge those batteries (Never try to recharge Alkaline batteries...This is for simplicity to understand BMS) the common old school way is to connect positive charger wire to the positive end of the stack of d batteries and the negative to the other end. Sure you charge the batteries but there's a toll put on all the center batteries and especially the very center one. They have to work charging and discharging over and over more than the batteries towards the end of the stack of d cells. Eventually one or more middle batteries will short out and go dead. causing the entire stack of batteries to be useless. A BMS divides up into smaller groups and sends them all separate equal slow charge that preserves their health and no more middle batteries going bad/.
Final thought....If you come across a laptop with a dead battery pack and it uses 18650 style cells, you now know how to repair it!. Its a middle battery that died....change it and the pack is like new!
Your welcome.
still like rocket science, but thanks for explaining. will try with my laptop batteries.
Hi Vuaeco, I admire your can-do spirit in reviving this battery, but I do have a few comments:
- Unless the circuit board contained in the battery has balancing circuitry built into it (which I doubt), while you are in the process of recharging the battery you should balance it (get all the cells to the exact same voltage). Otherwise when you throw it back on the Ryobi charger, which will take it up to 21V, some cells will be less than fully charged and some will be overcharged which can be very dangerous / a fire hazard.
- Depending on the cell chemistry type, it may be dangerous to recharge Li-Ion cells that have been discharged beyond ~2.5V. In this case, the cathode may break down and when recharging the cell may experience thermal runaway. This can be extremely dangerous. For a battery like this with cells below 2V, I'd either replace -all- cells in the battery or just dump it.
I'd feel a lot happier if he had some sort of fuse (say around 5A?) in one of his charging leads!
Lmao, I kept having to rewind especially at the end because of the Ryobi "conspiracy board" I'll make sure to buy stock in Ryobi, thanks for the insider tip!!
Hi very good video info, I have the same type of power pack which fail to charge , since it was a few years old, I manage to change the whole of set batteries , no doubt it works well , the power gets discharge fast upon using , what could be the problem can you help.. sammy
Great job!
A question would be the same procedure to revive a dead Ryobi P107 Li-Ion battery and a Ryobi P118 charger,
Since I have these accessories.
regards
Got my batter to start charging again! Fully charged but now the tool won’t work with that particular battery?
where do i send my money! i just used ur solution n it worked. u saved my lots of coin thanks for sharing!
ggch
Thanks the parallel method worked on my ryobi
The board might try to keep all the voltages the same when charging, thus all 5 will be 4.02 volts for example. It might also shut everything down if there is a short like 100 amps. But it is there probably for show like you say, if people opened up the battery and there was nothing there, everybody could fix the battery. Might even have a kill battery circuit so after 300 uses it kills the battery.
ty sir for making this video and sharing your knowledge
Yes, you need to bring the voltage up just enough to be a discharged battery, so a charger will recognize and charge it. This means only a few seconds per battery to boost it up to a normal discharged level... ready to be charged. This works with Ni-MH batteries too. And probably with other types of rechargeable batteries.
Pre-planned obsolescence.. I wonder if it's possible to make facsimile of fuse to revive circuit board
Did you perform a battery drain by use on tool then recharge battery normally through charger again
Nice work !!!,my vacuum cleaner 20v black&decker is charging now and ryobi too. :) :) :)
Great video - yes the boards fail - I have 50/50 success on repairs of these battery packs. When you put 2 batteries one low charge and one full charge they try to equalise if both are healthy and similar they will end up with the same charge if left long enough.... thats why when one cell fails the others try to equalise and either overwork the good ones or make them fail.
All my cells have 4.6v after charging except the first one with the positive terminal, do I just need to replace that cell? Or what can I do
bypass it if you don't have another cell. But you'll loose 10% of batteries potency.
Did you know that most 18650 lithium batteries when discharged below like 1.4 volts the cell goes dead and is considered done. But here's a trick....
You can use a Harbor Freight Blue handled mini flat screwdrivers blade and squeeze it in under the positive terminals "Crown" shaped terminal. Once the blade is under the crown gently and slowly apply downward pressure to underneath the "crown...But LISTEN for a "CLICK" hard to hear and if you push too much you'll rupture the batteries bladder and liquid smelly caustic lithium will leak! So just go slow and listen for the slight "click"..... remove the screwdriver and check the cell for voltage.....if it is still dead retry clicking the battery...80% of 18650 batteries have a reset button under the crown. That's all your doing is resetting the breaker on the cell.
I'm only guessing but you could have omitted trying to jump it with the D wall battery put the case back on it and put it directly in the charger and I think it would have charged the only reason and again I'm guessing that it won't charge us because it's below the 5 volters at 0 bolts but once it gets above the 5 V I think that the charger would go ahead and charge it up
I regularly build projects using lipo 18650 batteries recovered from junk laptop batteries. I usually find that only one or two cells in a battery pack are dead beyond recovery, the rest give me a lot of life. The circuitry in that battery pack is to monitor the batteries to insure they do not discharge too far and ruin the cells, or over charge and again ruin the cells and starting a fire. Recovering the packs using your method seems to be a good idea, if you are lucky, however doing this if the battery happens to be damaged can cause an explosion, and indeed a fire. In fact it can be fatal so care must be taken when working with lipo batteries.
Your concerns are reasonable. Care should always be taken when you deal with any kind of batteries, not just Li-ion. But if you use 4.2V 18650 cells to charge the same cells, it would be highly unlikely to cause any damage. The charging cells are from 4.2V and charging the same cells at 4.2V max so it will never ever overcharge anything. Especially when you only do it for about 15-20 seconds.
I've got to try this with an after market battery for a Porter Cable 18Volt battery pack.
You would think Ryobi would place some protection in their radio to stop draining. Just creates more returned batteries for them and lost customers.
I have a duff battery thats saying its dead now i have a 18v lithium battery and i have just tested the voltage of the battery and its coming up at 13.75 and when i charge it it wont charge now i have just ordered croc clips to try and boost the charge from the charger to the battery circuit board
I did this last weekend to revive the ryobi pack. I got it to charge but only charges to 12v. 3 cells read 4v and the other 2 cells are dead. Can’t get them to take any voltage
good job man
I've got a P108 battery that I'm trying to repair. Having the opposite issue as you. Testing cells, they're 4v each, 20.4v total. At the connection points, it's 0v. Charger doesn't show defective battery. It shows full. Test light on battery itself shows dead. I'm thinking the circuit board needs to be jumped to reset the over discharge circuit. Any ideas?
I think your circuit board has a pre-programmed premature death by Ryobi. Their plan is working, beautifully! What they are saying is, you should buy a new battery! But seriously, the circuit board was over engineered and has so many electronics components ready to fail at any time. If you have another working pack, try to remove the cells from the dead pack and put it on a working pack to see if they work?
vuaeco I'm not sure I want to risk messing up another battery pack. Going to try a few more things. I've had good luck with these over the years. First that went bad. Thanks.
vuaeco I'm positive the cells work. I hooked them directly up to a tool to test. It's definitely in the circuit board.
very informative
John Corboo
Thank you
Can I do the parallel method for NI Cad?
I am only guessing but I think you could have omitted the dewalt step put the cap back on the thing and put it in a charger and there's a small chance it would have charged the only thing is that can't charge a battery with 0 V on it or below like 5 V but once you get above 5 I think it might possibly charge and again I'm only guessing
How are they in parallel? Can you parallel jump a ni-cad to a lithium ion battery? Do you always need to recharge the Ryobi battery this way because of the faulty circuit board? If the Robi larger is so large, why do they need so much circuitry in their battery?
1) Parallel reviving a NiCad just connects the positive from a charged cell to positive of the drained one, and same for the negative. The individual cells are not wired in parallel in the pack.
2) You should NEVER recharge the Ryobi Li-Ion packs this way. The circuit board did not fail, it did exactly what it was supposed to do, prevent charging the cells because once they have discharged too low it becomes a fire hazard to recharge them.
3) It needs the circuitry to protect people from a fire hazard but some fools circumvent that and accept the fire risk. It is very irresponsible for this video to suggest it's a safe thing to do. Is he going to buy you a new home or work truck if yours catches on fire? How about burns to loved ones? Ryobi didn't put that circuit board in for shits and giggles, it's supposed to do exactly what it did.
You do not have to charge each battery separately in the cluster. Just hook up a simple car battery charger (12V) like C-Tek charger to the two extreme poles (at two ends) in the cluster, maintaining polarity, for 15-20 seconds and you are done.
Thank you for Revive a dead Ryobi
thank you for such thoroughly long vdo :D
How would you connect a good Ryobi battery like this one to a dead sliding style battery like your DeWalt one, as in your first method without taking the Ryobi apart since it can't use metal clips to slide in?
Use the same metal clips but with a rubber band. :)
+vuaeco ok. what are the clips or wires called?
you mean the metal clips or the alligator clips?
Alligator clips are from Harbor Freight tools. Metal clips are salvaged from various hardware.
Make sure you use thick wires though because they might get real hot and melt the plastic on the wires. The thicker the wires the less heat it would generate.
+vuaeco alligator clips, thank you, I'll let you know if it worked
i love you man. i agree, most american businesses are conspiring in some way. they all lead to MONEY!
at least when they go bad, we can take the cells and use for ebikes :)
you can buy neodymium magnets or battery trays or even build your own. but beware of the inherent dangers that do come with lithium ions even after successfully reassembling battery pack there's a good chance of accidentally shorting out after a pack is disassembled.
I wonder if a 12 volt power supply would work?
Great tutorials!
Good video. Thanks
Great! Thx
my ryobi battary refuses charging, each cell has about 3.85v to 3.9v.
Between all batteries it is 19.54, and with the circuit board it is 17,95v... but it still wont charge or work on my powertools.
some good advice or what the problem is ??
Your cells are about 75% full. They should work. Try to hook up just the positive and negative terminals only to something else like a motor or an incandescent bulb to see if it works. If it works with something else other than your tool then your tool might have a problem. Or you might have a premature preprogrammed death of the circuit board.
i just connected it without the circuit board and the tool worked fine,, so it must be circuit board.. Is there anything that can be repaired or can I throw it in the trash?
If you're skillful at electronics, you can work out what component is dead on that circuit board and replace it. However, is it worth it to invest the time trying to diagnose and fix the problem of an old battery? I don't think so. I would just remove the cells and use them for something else as the cells are high discharge cells and you can basically use them for anything.
you are the best !!
could you try this with a makita battery?
I have done this method and it seem to worked but after I check the voltage a few mins later, the voltage dropped back to nothing. I found that I had 2 cells charging at 4 or 5 volts and the others were barely 1 what did I do wrong?
The cells that drop voltage (after being charged this way) are dead. Good cells do not drop voltage. The cells that are being overcharged are because they have to raise the voltage to compensate for the dead cells to have the same total overall voltage.
buy flagpower batterys from ebay amazon etc for a third of the price and they work good..
dont you have a warranty on the batt? you said its brand new @1:45 ?????????..why take it apart? warranty is for a reason.
Vuaeco, do you have a reliable option for NiCad
Unfortunately, NiCad batteries once go bad, not worth fixing, in my opinion. A NiCad cell is only 1.2V. To make a 20V pack, you will need about 16 cells. With that many cells in a pack, lots of things can go wrong. Once a pack is bad, it might not just one cell but multiple cells. A NiCad charger is also different than a Li-ion charger. You can discharge a NiCad battery to a very low voltage and can still charge your NiCad battery. So this method of reviving a Li-ion battery does not work with a NiCad battery because you can just throw your NiCad battery to a NiCad charger and it would charge just fine despite the fact that the battery voltage is low. However, once a NiCad battery is bad, the only way to revive it is to remove dead cells and replace with new cells. But then you'll have a mix of old cells (with memory effect) and new cells in the pack once fixed. That's still not a good way to fix it. That's why I don't think it's worth it to fix an old NiCad battery.
Thanks I'll respect your advice.
If you are likely to accidentally reverse the polarity, why don't you connect a diode between the Batteries using for charging, with the batteries being charged?
thats a good idea if you think you might mess this up. But you will need to have a rather big diode because the current flow is big.
10 amp diodes rated at 1000 volts are available on EBay for less than 10 cents each.
Spend a dollar and you will have 10 of them.
10 in parallel will handle 100 amps continuously and about 5000 amps surge...
BUT; after considering your 'FUBAR' problem a second time; my diode idea would NOT solve your problem because the diode would be forward biased in your error condition and would not protect the uncharged battery at all.
There are other ways to provide protection, but they would all be a lot more complicated...
A much safer solution to revive individual cells (the one I use) is a programmable power supply set to 4.2 volts and current limiting set to around 0.5 amp. If you don't have a programmable PSU then the next best solution would be a 6 to 12 volt incandescent bulb wired in series with the method shown above. Without a way to limit current, the method shown in this video is very dangerous, although ALL methods are dangerous and I don't recommend any of them unless you are prepared to handle a possible fire. NEVER charge them unattended.
Love the FUBAR sticker. haha
lol to the fubar sticker
thanks a lot
Por que no le grabaste en español si lo hablas y parece que muy bien
All u had to do was bring each cell upto 3 volts then throw it on the charger as the charger will reset the BMS
hey vuaeco, I just put new cells in one of these. The battery charges correctly and holds charge at 20v but won't start any tools. Any ideas? I think the conspiracy board plot thickens.
Where on the battery did you get 20V measurement? Is it from the top plastic pole with 3 terminals or is it from the inside of the battery?
Nope, I solved my issue. I incorrectly installed protected cells. So the cells themselves are switching off for high current demands. My external and internal voltages match.
I didn’t know Apple bought out Ryobi.
Nice video! But is it a good idea or a bad idea to charge a battery directly with a source voltage without any special charging circuity in between?
Also, you mentioned that the circuit board was 'on the way'. So I assume the board is on it's way out? Or about to become kaput? But yet, it appears to be working again all of a sudden? But, once again.... nice video!
If the board is okay you can revive the battery.
Lol! I'm going to invest in ryobi stock now!
Put battery in freezer 48 hours then charge my good fellow
I would not just hook up batteries to another without knowing the max current flow and battery tolerance of max current. They could blow up. I think I would do the math at least. I would use a lithium charger and just hook it to the battery.
If You Can Find Replacement 160's reasonable
Then Rebuilding The Battery Wouln't
Be So Expencive
Sir great video but you really should just get to the point, you repeat yourself many time, but thumbs up, just trying to help.
what happens if you don't have another battery to boost each cell
why can't you just use the Ryobi charger itself connected with the alligator clips to each battery cell and hold them on there for 10 or 20 seconds of Peace do I have to use a laptop battery?
There are a few problems using the Ryobi charger to boost each cell. First, the charger puts out 20V or more. Each cell is only 4.2V max. If you use a 20V charger to boost a 4.2V battery, you are taking a risk of exploding the battery. Second, most chargers have a ground terminal. It only turns on when it detects a ground terminal from the battery itself. So if you only use alligator clips for the positive and negative terminals, you won't turn on the charger. Finally, most chargers are called "intelligent" chargers. That means it only turns on and charges the battery when it senses a certain voltage coming from the battery say at least 14-15V. If the battery voltage is too low, the charger won't turn on.
can I use another drill battery to charge each cell carefully?
the problem is I don't have a laptop battery
could I use a spare laptop battery charger to charge each cell carefully not going over 4 volts
cutting the laptop charger putting alligator leads on the positive and negative thank connecting that to each Ryobi cell
sorry for bothering you but how about using a cell phone power supply cell phone charger.
I think those only put out low voltage.
couldn't I just cut the cord and then put alligator clips on both sides making sure I have positive and negative.
and then charge each cell
I think this would be perfect
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KYTZV2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475918313&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=3.7+volt+battery+charger
let me know if this is okay to use to charge each cell.
it's rated at 4.2 volts about half of a 600ma..
I would just have to connect an alligator clip to the positive and the negative of the power supply. and then do exactly what you said for each cell charging.
but the question would be how long would it take to charge each cell? it look like you are method charged each cell in 10 seconds..
how long do you think it would take with this?
they make other ones that have a higher amperage like 3600ma at 4.2volts..
The point in having the circuit board is to balance the charges on the batteries either individually or in pairs. If for some reason one of the batteries were to develop an internal short, which happens though infrequently , it will shut the board down so no charge can be accepted preventing overheating of that cell and a possible chain reaction with the others.. Unfortunately some Ryobi tools do not shut off at the low voltage cutoff and thus also render the battery as a unit unchangeable which can be reversed by the method you have shown.
But you make a big and dangerous mistake calling this unnecessary or a conspiracy when the simple fact is that should any batteries fail Ryobi is more than happy to replace them during the warranty period. And should the failure be as a result of a cell shorting internally, you would be on your knees thanking the manufacturer that it didn't explode.
Did you watch the whole video or did you just only watch the very last part of the video where I talked about the "conspiracy theory"? The point of the circuit board to prevent both overcharging AND overdischarging. This board only prevents overcharging. If it fails at this, it will explode the very first time you charge it and you'll have no chance to overdischarge it. We won't have this conversation if that happens. And this video would never exist. It leaves the battery for dead when there's a phantom load. And that's the whole point.
What sort of a question is that? I watched the whole thing and your ending it with the conspiracy theory is nuts. Overcharging is protected via the Ryobi charging circuit in the charger. The on board circuit in the battery also prevents massive over discharge via protection diodes and series fets. So if you short the terminals, you kill the functionality of the battery without it overheating. There is also a thermocouple attached to the side of the 18650 battery which shuts the battery down. And just to be clear, I am talking about over discharge rates of higher then capacity amperage, not the low voltage cut off.
Low voltage cutoff is a function designed into the tool. However if you use one plus1+ batteries in the older blue tools designed for nicads, you will drain the Li-ion below the threshold since they wont shut off. There are also a few of the Ryobi green 1+ tools which lack the low voltage cutoff, lights for instance, the heat glue gun so caution needs to be used to turn the device off. Leaving them running below the threshold won't cause the battery to explode but it will render the battery pack nonchargeable until you charge each cell in the battery pack above the threshold. Then and only then will it accept a charge.....and that is without exploding!
Exploding the very first time you charge it? Wow. Do you have a statistic as to how many times this actually happened?
At 22:00, when you said the board lets the batteries get to 0 V on purpose to destroy the cells just to make you buy another battery...
THATS HOW COMPANIES CONTINUE TO MAKE THEIR $$$$
If they built a better product with better electronics to properly monitor the voltages and to properly protect the cells, then they would not continue to make $$ of you, at that point the battery would charge 1000+ times allowing you to get your $$ worth...
I had a Ryobi 18V 2.5ah battery that went "bad" per charger, i took it apart like you did and to find the cells were good, it was the board that was bad... So what a WASTE of perfectly good cells because the circuit board failed either due to cheap crap components, bad design on placement on the board, heat damage to board when recharging battery or heat damage to board when actually using the battery on devices that are high drain....
Either way, the board failed due to unknown reason... And what sucks is that we cant just go out and buy a new board from Ryobi because they don't even stock or make those boards, probably made in China and we will NEVER have a chance to fix it unless you know how it was designed..
Absolutely true. They do this for a purpose and it's called "planned (or pre-programmed) obsolescence. If they make it too durable, the entire US economy is going to collapse.
Bring back to home Depot and and exchange
Hi
I try to fix this battery, but i have transistor missing - this with radiator. Can you photo it for me or read the symbol of the treansistor ?
Ryobi circuit boards are KRAP...I now buy after market...NO Problems... Ryobi knows about, ripping consumers off.
why its going down is because the other battery your using to charge it is draining so your draining the power from the other battery you should make other videos that dont include electronics
where are you from? what is your accent?
He’s Vietnamese
can you use good cells next to the discharged cell for a charge?
K.I.S.S.
Sumboody, anyone.?
Please put an end to these stupid "Revive dead batteries by connecting them parallel" voodoo repair. All of these videos are the same. "I have seen it, i don't understand what is happening, so i do it too." You show in the video, that you have absolutly no clue what you are doing.
With below 1 V your cells are dead. They are not empty, it is no fail function of the circuit board or charger. They are dead. They build cristal spikes, that can penetrate the separater and cause a thermal runaway. That means they can burn or explode out of nothing. So they are dangerous dead. We don't talk about a tooth brush AA battery. We talk about a high current lithium tool battery. The protection on your battery has done it's job to disconnect the cells from the connectors and make it unusable. Your radio fails to turn of on low battery. Discharge turn off is always done in the tool for safety reasons like circular saw break. Charge disconnect is sometimes done in the battery for safety like ryobi for NiCd compatibility. You simply try to trick the safety functions. That has nothing to do with revive or repair.
Thats no charging you are showing. In battery technology there isn't even a term of what you are doing.
Charging lithium has to be done with constant current. Deep discharged cells have to be charged with low current. In battery tools there are high power cells. These cells are allowed to deliver 20 to 30 A while discharging, continious. And around 100 A pulse. Allowed means the current is much higher when shorted. But the allowed charging current is only between 1 to 5 A. By connecting a fully charged battery parallel to a deep discharged battery the deep discharged one is kicked in the A** with around 100 A, while only around 2 A are allow for a healthy cells, around 0,5 A for deep discharged cells between 3,0 to 2,5 V and 0 A for your 1 V dead ones. With lower voltage difference the current gets lower and with the long cables the current is much less than 100 A, but to high. Use at least a 10 Ohm 5 W Resistor for single cells (3,6 V), a 50 Ohm 25 W Resistor for 18 V packs.
Charging a battery from a battery can only done with lead acid batteries. They are self limiting. Thats why the jump start you try to imitate is less critical on cars, than on tool batteries.
So much waffle and messing about, just connect 12v between both ends…simple
Stilch
buy stocks not batteries lmao
do you have a fb page?
Stocks are mortal, too. I don't do FB.
pet and repet 2 times is all you need maybe you like talking but I don't like listen .....
lol "ryobi conspiracy blah blah blah. .."
hahahaha! It's not that. It's just that battery technology is still kind of 'primitive'. You'd think that in 2016 they would be able to make batteries that just keep working - regardless of how much we charge or discharge them etc.
you're funny. FUBAR. ha ha