Thanks for the how to do it yourself video. Changed out two batteries with most of them dead - dead - dead. Its charging up again. Thanks, was scared to sorter the batteries but your instructions were dead on.
Those Ryobis look like they give you a lot more room in case. I've got 20V Dewalt stuff and they almost won't go back in the case after soldering. They dang sure won't with that much solder, they are a pain in the ass! Great work, thx for the vid!
You sound exactly like John Turturro from Johnny Depp's movie Secrete Window. "My ending. The one you wrecked. I can't decide what's worse: stealing my story or ruining the ending".
@@micwang7757 Sometimes you can get a pack back working by recharging individual cells up if they are in decent condition. Usually at that point they will have lost capacity and the most important thing is that the cells are healthy enough to charge or give that boost back. Cells that are in really bad condition should not be charged. The video in the link shows one of the worst condition of cells that I have on video. Just a safety note for boosting cells that are not in good condition.
I have the same exact battery and it just so happens the same 2 cells are dead. The other cells are reading around 2.4. Is that too low to even bother with the replacing of replacing. I thought maybe hanging on to and waiting for another battery to steal some cells out of. More time than money sort of thing. BTW.... great video.!!
Interesting, 2.4V is border line to me and I would try to charge those up and test them by making sure they do not get too warm. Also if they do charge up fine do they discharge ok (evenly etc.) I would charge them up some even if you decide to set it aside for later you don't want the cells to drop any lower. Thanks for your comment!
Hola una pregunta mi cargador enciende el foco verde como si ya estuviera cargada la batería pero el led de la batería está en posición baja y la pila tiene 17.68 volts...que puede ser?!!
Well the series would mean if one set of 2 was lower than the others then the pack would shut down prematurely when that set is registered below 2.8V or so. For example some others maybe at 3.5v, So capacity may be diminished. After several charge cycles though and if the cells are matched well they most likely will balance closer. The unmatched cells of course will get slightly more unbalanced. The thing about the parallel sets is they will equalize across each other for certain, but we don't want that to be too much of a current flow between the 2 when put together, it could potentially be catastrophic. Depending of course on how far out if balance the 2 are if that makes sense. I have a video about the way I normally test cells before putting them in a pack and I like to take the time to do it correctly. Thanks for your comment! th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
Just a real quick question my ryobi battery is giving me a full 13.85 volt on the battery but when i check the posts im only getting 10 volt and it will not charge and the led will not turn on and all the cells are good what could be the issue and the board looks like it is burnt next to the battery check button is it the bms that is bad
The Mosfets are not on so it is not showing full output on the battery post. I would check and make sure all cells are balanced well it could be one cell or more that is below around 2.7v and that may stop the pack from charging. Not a fan of boosting packs when the condition is not known, but if you have a cell that is just a little lower than others you can bring it up slow with a bench top PS set at the same voltage as other cells and current limit to about 1A monitor to make sure nothing is getting too warm and then make sure the whole pack is high enough to charge, like maybe bring it up to 15 - 16V across all 5 cell sets. Then maybe it will take off charging on charger. If not most likely bad BMS. Best of luck to ya!
Thanks for the vid! Great job. We have a landscape contracting co. My ryobi batteries go "dead" after contact with just a little bit of moisture. Maybe that foam gets wet and jumps. The Dewalt or Milwaukee hold up just fine. These ryobi are least durable for real world conditions and the warranty is the worst. Anyway, if you have suggestion where to look would be great. I do not have your understanding of electronics.
Thanks for your comment. I have not seen that exact issue but the last Ridgid pack I worked on had a weird issue and it was corrosion on the board it seems similar maybe especially since both Ridgid and Ryobi are made by TTI.
Looks like some of us were gifted trimmers that didn't hold a charge. I didn't realize how old this battery was. Would I just be better off buying a new one?
Sometimes it is for sure. I show in some repair videos that some packs are past the point of economical repair. Some have all cells bad, some only one bad cell. It depends.
great video. thank you for the links. I have two p104 batteries that are graveyard dead..Q. had the bad batteries been in the center of the pak vs the end like yours, would it have been any more difficult or a different process ?
Yes, the end made for a quicker video for sure. Sometimes in the middle of the pack you have to remove alot more cells to replace the bad one. You have to be alot more careful not to short out any cells while working away at these and it's alot more time consuming. Thanks for your comment!
I have a Ryobi trimmer that was given to me with a P104 battery that would not charge. I opened the battery and found one cell that apparently leaked. The rest look fine. All the cells are below a volt. I’m guessing when the one cell failed, it drained the rest. Wondering if it is even worth trying to salvage the pack? Don’t know what my options are.
Sounds like what happened for sure. Typically when cells go that far ( < 1V ) they are passed the point of reviving! That said if you can use a power supply to connect across the + and - of every cell individually (or set of 2 for the P104) and make sure you set the voltage at 4v and current limit to no more than 1Amp you can see if any of the others are worth saving. Just use caution that they don't get really hot etc. while testing. Sometimes this works but after the charging the cell will start draining down on its own and you can tell it is a bad cell, best of luck!
What kind of lifespan do you get out of these rebuilds? I always wonder if it’s worth the effort or better to just pull the trigger on a new one. Thanks so much.
It depends on the shape of the pack. It's best to replace all cells of course if you have some from other packs that have tested with good capacity or like new. Buying all new cells is usually not worth the expense compared to buying a new one. I have had pretty good luck and gotten years more from some packs with replacing a almost identical matched cell with others if they all test in capacity the same. If you don't make sure all the others are in good capacity and the replacement is not a really close match, the pack will not last very long before issues again. Also if you have to boost a pack because the cells are going below 2.5v at times typically something internally is going on with those cells anyway and it's a lost cause unless it's tested well enough to see which cells are slowly discharging on it.
My P189 fell in dishwater 3 weeks ago. :( I get 17.05 across the top terminals. 3.48 ... 3.51 across each battery 17.56 from top right to bottom left. 14.05 from top right to bottom right. My Intelliport 30 minute charger makes a few clicking sounds then shows a solid red light meaning "Defective." Can I replace the board and get her up and running again?
It should possible. I would try to clean the board very well and try before you go through the trouble. I have a video on a Ridgid pack that shows a corrosion issue resolved it's most likey a long shot, but I would give it a try. Good plastic safe in conductive electronic contact cleaner.
I do have a PS listed in the video description similar to what I use. From time to time they are out of stock but amazon usually has other similar items pop up as options. I really like the Uni-t 30V 5A that I have, it's been really good.
I have all Ryobi tools and therefore all Ryobi batteries. I have questions about using multiple batteries connected in parallel to make a portable battery pack. in theory, four 5Ah batteries hook together to give an output of 20Ah battery pack. My concern is what do I have to be cautious about to prevent any unexpected results when connecting 4 batteries in parallel to increase amp capacity. My goal is to make a pack of 4 batteries and have an output of 12v, USB, and 110v to run other small appliances and tools. I did a video on this idea on my channel in my porta-power series. I can link it if you want to understand more of what I am trying to do. Just looking for your expert opinions and ideas, not plugging my channel so any advise and insight is appreciated.
The only problem I can think of is the balance of the said packs. Of course if all perfectly balanced in a perfect world no pack would pull on the other. So if all packs are close in charge and discharge rate is very close it may be just fine. I would consider using high current diodes in the circuit other wise to make sure the current can only flow from packs and not back into it. Just my thoughts off the top of my head, and feel free to post a link, I would enjoy it!
thanks for the tip. I have to tell you. my videos are not of the quality that yours are. My style is more of a show and tell since I don't edit videos. Anyway, thanks for the response, most channels your size don't seem to answer questions. I have one more question. I bought the 5Ah generic batteries for my battery pack project. My question is, does the generic battery have a temperature sensor like the Ryobi brand?
@@russveinot5754 I try my best to respond. sometimes the number of responses is overwhelming and then again sometimes it is as if everyone stopped watching altogether, lol. I can not be sure about the generic pack you are referring to exactly, but the ones that I have personally seen, they do have the ntc very similar to the name brand. Sometimes after testing the capacity is not what it was stated to be though, unfortunately!
I bought 6 5Ah batteries to give me a matched set for my battery pack. Also, I charge them fully before plugging them in. I'm just looking to run my computer, tv, dvd player, etc. when there is a power outage here. We seem to get more than our fair share :>)
A1: Yes, security bit set, I really like the longer bit set as in the link below. ( I use this set a lot, shorter ones are cheaper though...) A2: I kept them from other ryobi packs that failed, for example some are from almost identical packs and i also have some from the 40V ryobi packs as spare. Long reach security bits: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338325412&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FExtra-Long-6-Security-Bit-32pc-Set-Tamper-Proof-Hex-Torx-Star-Pozi-Tri-Wing%2F111824191857%3F_trkparms%3Daid%253D111001%2526algo%253DREC.SEED%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20160908105057%2526meid%253D2ae5d0d969a94c0a8c1c25a93e236b6c%2526pid%253D100675%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D15%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D111824191857%2526itm%253D111824191857%26_trksid%3Dp2481888.c100675.m4236%26_trkparms%3Dpageci%253A0ad76450-6c67-11e9-b583-74dbd18032b9%257Cparentrq%253A75aead2e16a0ac1d207c3a27fffb843b%257Ciid%253A1
It is the Security Torx bits to fit the torx screws with center stud. T10 is the common size for alot of these type packs. I usually have a link in video description with the long reach security bit set link if needed. I really like this type because they reach in some tighter and deeper to reach areas.
Question for you .I have a Ryobi P108 double stack 18v battery that has issues . Won't take charge and a test of the terminals before disassembly showed no voltage at all to the terminals . However after removing from case and checking voltage across the battery terminals I have 18v . Something is prohibiting the voltage from reaching the topside terminals . Thats where I need help . I have no idea what It might be but would love to repair it and put it back into service . Any help would be appreciated .
HI, Well the BMS on these has MOSFETs. Usually one Mosfet is for discharge and one is for charging. These normally do not have the output voltage at the terminals unless they wake up if you will. Some models of these packs output once in tool and also when the charge level indicator is pressed. Other than checking the MOSFETs or possible reset on the BMS board for the microcontroller, that is all I could say, just guessing.
@@ThriftyToolShed Ok how do I go about checking the mosfets ? Also I did find the test ports on the board and one of them is marked rst which I assume is reset . I know I have to short this out to reset it but not sure where to touch the jumper .
I try not to repeat a tremendous amount of similar information about battery packs since some viewers may watch most of them. Since Ridgid is also made by TTI as Ryobi the video below has almost the same information as the same test on Ryobi. I am assuming I did not mention it all again in my Ryobi video. It's been a while. Lol.. th-cam.com/video/lpjdJCqBsTU/w-d-xo.html
The reset is simply jumping the reset pin to the ground pin and sometimes it helps by cycling the BMS as you can imagine it's powered at all times and does not ever get a true power reset so this resets or reboots the microcontroller, I have had success doing this maybe 5-7% of the time, not always helpful, but always worth the try.
@@ThriftyToolShed Success !!! I reset the board according to the Rigid video you made then proceeded to give the PCB a good cleaning with contact cleaner and toothbrush . I scrubbed it twice as I did see some corrosion present . I dried it well then placed it back in the charger.......Viola , blinking red test followed by a steady green light displaying full charge . Inserted into the tool and works like a charm . Thanks so much for your help .
Yeah, that's why it exploded. I guess it was not clear but to start with I was heating up the large thermal mass of the metal strip(not even in contact with cell at first) before pushing it down and then only a few more seconds actually to make the puddle since it was pre tinned. Thanks for your concern. I like to use spot weld for new builds, soldering works best for me over the years for older pack repairs. Spot weld yours if you like...
Thanks for your comment. I have been asked alot about the 40V Ryobi. I did do a quick video about some problems with them. I just mentioned that for me they were so problematic that I stopped repairing them and just saved the good cells from the ones I had. I have been asked alot about them though. If I get some more I may look a little further into them.
I have a battery pack that wont charge even though all of the cells are at 3.64-3.67 volts. The voltage at the post (the part that slides into the tool or charger) is around 16 volts. But if you test the voltage across the cells on the board, it reads about 18 volts. I'm not sure if this is normal or the cause of my battery not charging. Do you have any ideas? Love your videos btw!
Seems like it could be the BMS board. The transistors on board can cut out or not fully turn on if a problem is detected with the pack. Sounds like your pack is pretty well balanced and voltage is high enough to charge so it is either a bad NTC or a fault in the BMS circuitry would be my guess.
@@ThriftyToolShed Hola ayúdame por favor ... Tengo una batería ryobi qué cuando la pongo en el cargador el cargador después de 5 segundos prende el foco verde de inmediato indicando que está cargada pero al medir la batería la batería solamente cuenta con 17 volts lo cheque con un voltímetro y cheque cada celda y cada celda está bien tiene alrededor de 3.6 v mi pila tiene leds indicadores de carga pero solo prende el primero indicando carga baja.... Yo pensé que podría ser una celda pero las celdas están bien lo revise por separado cada una de ellas... Entonces mi problema es que cuando la pongo a cargar el cargador casi de inmediato se pone en foco verde en luz verde indicando que está cargada.. pero la batería se queda en los 17.68 volts... Qué podría ser me podrías ayudar por favor
I am trying to remember. It seems like it was around 8 years old at the time of the video which was almost 4 years ago. I don't remember if I mentioned the date I bought the pack or not honestly.
Some of these boards have a microcontroller programming header or at least the pads on the board for it and you can jump GND to RST to do a microcontroller reset. Sometimes it helps and sometimes not. I have a video on a ECHO 58V pack repair and it helped on that one and I shared that on the video. I also have a video on the Ridgid 18v Hyper Lithium pack and I shared the reset on it as well, but it was not the whole issue on that one. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Unfortunately this type of pad does not exist in this battery. I have searched for it very carefully and... nope. That's why I asked my question :( Second thing, what kind of replacement we can use if the original BMS is damaged?
It is a few packs that do not have that. The only way to do it without that is to look up the microcontroller spec sheet and finding the reset pin and jump that way or desolder the tab that goes from cell to board to break the power to board completely for a about 30s then reattach? You can find replacement BMS boards for these on eBay. Last I checked it's almost as much as buying the cheaper aftermarket pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed The sad thing is that in the newest version of the BMS board, Ryobi put some kind of gel on the bord surface. Like in wash machines. Impossible to mesure anything, desolder etc. Bastards... :)
The mosfets on the BMS will cut the power to the terminals (post). Some versions of these packs the push button "fuel gauge" will activate the mosfets for a few seconds while testing, most older versions do not have this, they cut the power when issue detected with the cells such as low voltage on a cell, over voltage or if NTC picks up a temperature issue!
@@ThriftyToolShed - for situations like in this comment, with all cells totaling 18V but nothing at the output posts, do you ever salvage the BMS boards from batteries where too many cells were dead (so not worth fixing) and use those salvaged boards to fix a battery with cells that are reaching 18V but no output?
I don't know of a us source. I see the LG preowned below for sale that are close but not much else, getting harder to find 1300's! rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273873485772
I believe it would be badly unbalanced in such a arrangement honestly. I always try to find the closest replacement as possible or change all cells out to the new ones if cost justified. That's why every time I work on batteries I keep the good cells from some really bad packs and over time build a fairly good spare assortment. Best of luck!
Two 1200mAH batteries in parallel gives you a total of 2400mAH hours capacity; if you can only get a 2500mAH replacement, try using just one of them instead of two cells. That keeps overall capacity close to what would be expected from the original pair of cells.
@@martinhamblett3444 - well, the next guy who can’t get the exact or closely matching cells might now have an idea they can try. In another comment on this video, I mentioned that the parts from inside the dead batteries might be worth keeping to fix other batteries.
For the LOVE OF GOD, through all these videos, I cannot find the hidden screw on the top of the base. 1 stem screw and 4 underneath. I see what could be 2 plastic "plugs" on the backside of the base, Southeast and Southwest of the stem, if the stem side of the battery is closest to you. I hope that makes sense. I've tried prying but it seems more resistive that should be, so I don't want to force it. I've had an 18650 burst/erupt/runaway once before and I'm VERY respectful of them in general, so I'll patiently wait for advice versus burning down my garage. Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. Be well.
Ok, so you have not gotten the battery case to seperate at all? And you have removed 4 security screws around the top of the pack and you have even removed the very top stem screw as well?
@@ThriftyToolShed correct. I've tried prying with many safe items, but it seems too tough, and I don't want to damage it. I have taken one screw out of the stem, and four screws out of the bottom side of the battery. The screws for my battery are not accessible from stem/top, they are accessed from bottom of pack, where the label and vent holes are. I greatly appreciate the response, thank you!
Correct. On all the Ryobi packs I have, that is all the screws. The 4 bottom and the one on top of stem. It is difficult to pry open some of these packs. They have little catches along the joint of the pack. It should pop up with a little prying...
@@ThriftyToolShed in your video, at 51 seconds, when you are prying on the stem side of the battery, your starts to separate, mine refuses. I'm good at breaking things by force. I've seen some other videos that show hidden plugs that you have to pry out or drill through which I have tried to do as well, and I now have a hole where one of the plugs should supposedly be, but I'm afraid to increase the size of the holeas I do not want to get hurt or damage the battery pack.
I have showed pulling plugs out of a few of the packs in my videos but that is one of the 4 on the lower half of the pack. Still only 5 screws with all mine, some had the plug that I show digging in and prying out and some did not have any. Either way that is my experience just 5 screws total on mine. Some packs are hard to seperate the lower half at the seam, I have had to pry hard on some, once it pops and you work it all the way around then pry the stem center down usually with a small screwdriver inserted at the top.
It has been a few years and I do remember fast forwarding through opening the case. If I remember I still showed removing all screws including the one on the very top of the connection post. I also shared the prying around the case top as well as the post housing separating from the connector. Most models have the 5 screws and the Ryobi clips are pretty tough to pry apart.
@@ThriftyToolShed yes it was those dumb hidden clips that wouldn't let go. I felt like I was going to break it. In the end, I discovered half my cells were badly bulging and corroded.
Thanks for the how to do it yourself video. Changed out two batteries with most of them dead - dead - dead. Its charging up again. Thanks, was scared to sorter the batteries but your instructions were dead on.
Glad it helped. As long as we are very careful and have respect for the energy they do store, we should be good! Thanks for your comment!
Those Ryobis look like they give you a lot more room in case. I've got 20V Dewalt stuff and they almost won't go back in the case after soldering. They dang sure won't with that much solder, they are a pain in the ass! Great work, thx for the vid!
I have this exact battery i'm going to try a repair with this guide thanks.
You sound exactly like John Turturro from Johnny Depp's movie Secrete Window. "My ending. The one you wrecked. I can't decide what's worse: stealing my story or ruining the ending".
saw other ppl try to recharge the cell directly and it works
Please watch this video!
th-cam.com/video/1ucbqglhyBk/w-d-xo.html
Thrifty Tool Shed so it could be charger too
@@micwang7757
Sometimes you can get a pack back working by recharging individual cells up if they are in decent condition. Usually at that point they will have lost capacity and the most important thing is that the cells are healthy enough to charge or give that boost back. Cells that are in really bad condition should not be charged. The video in the link shows one of the worst condition of cells that I have on video. Just a safety note for boosting cells that are not in good condition.
Thank you
11yrs done well most are good for about 6.
I agree! Thanks for your comment!
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks
I have the same exact battery and it just so happens the same 2 cells are dead. The other cells are reading around 2.4. Is that too low to even bother with the replacing of replacing. I thought maybe hanging on to and waiting for another battery to steal some cells out of. More time than money sort of thing. BTW.... great video.!!
Interesting, 2.4V is border line to me and I would try to charge those up and test them by making sure they do not get too warm. Also if they do charge up fine do they discharge ok (evenly etc.) I would charge them up some even if you decide to set it aside for later you don't want the cells to drop any lower.
Thanks for your comment!
Hola una pregunta mi cargador enciende el foco verde como si ya estuviera cargada la batería pero el led de la batería está en posición baja y la pila tiene 17.68 volts...que puede ser?!!
since the battery pack is in series parallel wouldn't the pack have equalized by itself without charging individually?
Well the series would mean if one set of 2 was lower than the others then the pack would shut down prematurely when that set is registered below 2.8V or so. For example some others maybe at 3.5v, So capacity may be diminished. After several charge cycles though and if the cells are matched well they most likely will balance closer. The unmatched cells of course will get slightly more unbalanced. The thing about the parallel sets is they will equalize across each other for certain, but we don't want that to be too much of a current flow between the 2 when put together, it could potentially be catastrophic. Depending of course on how far out if balance the 2 are if that makes sense. I have a video about the way I normally test cells before putting them in a pack and I like to take the time to do it correctly.
Thanks for your comment!
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
Hola que función tiene la tercer terminal de la batería ryobi???? Please
I believe you are asking about the temperature terminal. You have the positive, negative and the temperature detection from the BMS board.
Just a real quick question my ryobi battery is giving me a full 13.85 volt on the battery but when i check the posts im only getting 10 volt and it will not charge and the led will not turn on and all the cells are good what could be the issue and the board looks like it is burnt next to the battery check button is it the bms that is bad
The Mosfets are not on so it is not showing full output on the battery post. I would check and make sure all cells are balanced well it could be one cell or more that is below around 2.7v and that may stop the pack from charging. Not a fan of boosting packs when the condition is not known, but if you have a cell that is just a little lower than others you can bring it up slow with a bench top PS set at the same voltage as other cells and current limit to about 1A monitor to make sure nothing is getting too warm and then make sure the whole pack is high enough to charge, like maybe bring it up to 15 - 16V across all 5 cell sets. Then maybe it will take off charging on charger. If not most likely bad BMS. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks i checked every cell and they are all 2.7 volt so now i know it is the bms thanks so much for your help
Thanks for the vid! Great job.
We have a landscape contracting co.
My ryobi batteries go "dead" after contact with just a little bit of moisture. Maybe that foam gets wet and jumps. The Dewalt or Milwaukee hold up just fine.
These ryobi are least durable for real world conditions and the warranty is the worst.
Anyway, if you have suggestion where to look would be great.
I do not have your understanding of electronics.
Thanks for your comment. I have not seen that exact issue but the last Ridgid pack I worked on had a weird issue and it was corrosion on the board it seems similar maybe especially since both Ridgid and Ryobi are made by TTI.
Looks like some of us were gifted trimmers that didn't hold a charge. I didn't realize how old this battery was. Would I just be better
off buying a new one?
Sometimes it is for sure. I show in some repair videos that some packs are past the point of economical repair. Some have all cells bad, some only one bad cell. It depends.
great video. thank you for the links. I have two p104 batteries that are graveyard dead..Q. had the bad batteries been in the center of the pak vs the end like yours, would it have been any more difficult or a different process ?
Yes, the end made for a quicker video for sure. Sometimes in the middle of the pack you have to remove alot more cells to replace the bad one. You have to be alot more careful not to short out any cells while working away at these and it's alot more time consuming.
Thanks for your comment!
I have a Ryobi trimmer that was given to me with a P104 battery that would not charge. I opened the battery and found one cell that apparently leaked. The rest look fine. All the cells are below a volt. I’m guessing when the one cell failed, it drained the rest. Wondering if it is even worth trying to salvage the pack? Don’t know what my options are.
Sounds like what happened for sure. Typically when cells go that far ( < 1V ) they are passed the point of reviving! That said if you can use a power supply to connect across the + and - of every cell individually (or set of 2 for the P104) and make sure you set the voltage at 4v and current limit to no more than 1Amp you can see if any of the others are worth saving. Just use caution that they don't get really hot etc. while testing. Sometimes this works but after the charging the cell will start draining down on its own and you can tell it is a bad cell, best of luck!
What kind of lifespan do you get out of these rebuilds? I always wonder if it’s worth the effort or better to just pull the trigger on a new one. Thanks so much.
It depends on the shape of the pack. It's best to replace all cells of course if you have some from other packs that have tested with good capacity or like new. Buying all new cells is usually not worth the expense compared to buying a new one. I have had pretty good luck and gotten years more from some packs with replacing a almost identical matched cell with others if they all test in capacity the same. If you don't make sure all the others are in good capacity and the replacement is not a really close match, the pack will not last very long before issues again. Also if you have to boost a pack because the cells are going below 2.5v at times typically something internally is going on with those cells anyway and it's a lost cause unless it's tested well enough to see which cells are slowly discharging on it.
My P189 fell in dishwater 3 weeks ago. :( I get 17.05 across the top terminals. 3.48 ... 3.51 across each battery 17.56 from top right to bottom left. 14.05 from top right to bottom right. My Intelliport 30 minute charger makes a few clicking sounds then shows a solid red light meaning "Defective." Can I replace the board and get her up and running again?
It should possible. I would try to clean the board very well and try before you go through the trouble. I have a video on a Ridgid pack that shows a corrosion issue resolved it's most likey a long shot, but I would give it a try. Good plastic safe in conductive electronic contact cleaner.
I have an 18v+ 4Ah battery that the internal battery voltage is 20.5v but only 7.8v at the external contact points.
I would like to get a 30V 5A Linear Power Supply, What would recommend for a starter? Thanks
I do have a PS listed in the video description similar to what I use. From time to time they are out of stock but amazon usually has other similar items pop up as options. I really like the Uni-t 30V 5A that I have, it's been really good.
I have all Ryobi tools and therefore all Ryobi batteries. I have questions about using multiple batteries connected in parallel to make a portable battery pack. in theory, four 5Ah batteries hook together to give an output of 20Ah battery pack. My concern is what do I have to be cautious about to prevent any unexpected results when connecting 4 batteries in parallel to increase amp capacity. My goal is to make a pack of 4 batteries and have an output of 12v, USB, and 110v to run other small appliances and tools.
I did a video on this idea on my channel in my porta-power series. I can link it if you want to understand more of what I am trying to do. Just looking for your expert opinions and ideas, not plugging my channel so any advise and insight is appreciated.
The only problem I can think of is the balance of the said packs. Of course if all perfectly balanced in a perfect world no pack would pull on the other. So if all packs are close in charge and discharge rate is very close it may be just fine. I would consider using high current diodes in the circuit other wise to make sure the current can only flow from packs and not back into it. Just my thoughts off the top of my head, and feel free to post a link, I would enjoy it!
thanks for the tip. I have to tell you. my videos are not of the quality that yours are. My style is more of a show and tell since I don't edit videos. Anyway, thanks for the response, most channels your size don't seem to answer questions. I have one more question. I bought the 5Ah generic batteries for my battery pack project. My question is, does the generic battery have a temperature sensor like the Ryobi brand?
@@russveinot5754
I try my best to respond. sometimes the number of responses is overwhelming and then again sometimes it is as if everyone stopped watching altogether, lol.
I can not be sure about the generic pack you are referring to exactly, but the ones that I have personally seen, they do have the ntc very similar to the name brand. Sometimes after testing the capacity is not what it was stated to be though, unfortunately!
@@russveinot5754
BTW, I just seen your channel is bigger than mine!👍
I bought 6 5Ah batteries to give me a matched set for my battery pack. Also, I charge them fully before plugging them in. I'm just looking to run my computer, tv, dvd player, etc. when there is a power outage here. We seem to get more than our fair share :>)
Q1: my batt pack T10 torx head has a center pin, did you use a special torx bit; Q2 : where did you buy your cells,
A1: Yes, security bit set, I really like the longer bit set as in the link below. ( I use this set a lot, shorter ones are cheaper though...)
A2: I kept them from other ryobi packs that failed, for example some are from almost identical packs and i also have some from the 40V ryobi packs as spare.
Long reach security bits:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338325412&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FExtra-Long-6-Security-Bit-32pc-Set-Tamper-Proof-Hex-Torx-Star-Pozi-Tri-Wing%2F111824191857%3F_trkparms%3Daid%253D111001%2526algo%253DREC.SEED%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20160908105057%2526meid%253D2ae5d0d969a94c0a8c1c25a93e236b6c%2526pid%253D100675%2526rk%253D1%2526rkt%253D15%2526mehot%253Dpp%2526sd%253D111824191857%2526itm%253D111824191857%26_trksid%3Dp2481888.c100675.m4236%26_trkparms%3Dpageci%253A0ad76450-6c67-11e9-b583-74dbd18032b9%257Cparentrq%253A75aead2e16a0ac1d207c3a27fffb843b%257Ciid%253A1
Hey bro, what kind of screw you use to open the cover? I can't find proper tool to open it. Thanks
It is the Security Torx bits to fit the torx screws with center stud. T10 is the common size for alot of these type packs. I usually have a link in video description with the long reach security bit set link if needed. I really like this type because they reach in some tighter and deeper to reach areas.
Question for you .I have a Ryobi P108 double stack 18v battery that has issues . Won't take charge and a test of the terminals before disassembly showed no voltage at all to the terminals . However after removing from case and checking voltage across the battery terminals I have 18v . Something is prohibiting the voltage from reaching the topside terminals . Thats where I need help . I have no idea what It might be but would love to repair it and put it back into service . Any help would be appreciated .
HI,
Well the BMS on these has MOSFETs. Usually one Mosfet is for discharge and one is for charging. These normally do not have the output voltage at the terminals unless they wake up if you will. Some models of these packs output once in tool and also when the charge level indicator is pressed. Other than checking the MOSFETs or possible reset on the BMS board for the microcontroller, that is all I could say, just guessing.
@@ThriftyToolShed Ok how do I go about checking the mosfets ? Also I did find the test ports on the board and one of them is marked rst which I assume is reset . I know I have to short this out to reset it but not sure where to touch the jumper .
I try not to repeat a tremendous amount of similar information about battery packs since some viewers may watch most of them. Since Ridgid is also made by TTI as Ryobi the video below has almost the same information as the same test on Ryobi. I am assuming I did not mention it all again in my Ryobi video. It's been a while. Lol..
th-cam.com/video/lpjdJCqBsTU/w-d-xo.html
The reset is simply jumping the reset pin to the ground pin and sometimes it helps by cycling the BMS as you can imagine it's powered at all times and does not ever get a true power reset so this resets or reboots the microcontroller, I have had success doing this maybe 5-7% of the time, not always helpful, but always worth the try.
@@ThriftyToolShed Success !!! I reset the board according to the Rigid video you made then proceeded to give the PCB a good cleaning with contact cleaner and toothbrush . I scrubbed it twice as I did see some corrosion present . I dried it well then placed it back in the charger.......Viola , blinking red test followed by a steady green light displaying full charge . Inserted into the tool and works like a charm . Thanks so much for your help .
You held that soldering iron on the cell for a full minute! 😂
Yeah, that's why it exploded. I guess it was not clear but to start with I was heating up the large thermal mass of the metal strip(not even in contact with cell at first) before pushing it down and then only a few more seconds actually to make the puddle since it was pre tinned. Thanks for your concern.
I like to use spot weld for new builds, soldering works best for me over the years for older pack repairs. Spot weld yours if you like...
Can you do a video on 40V Ryobi? Your video is great, I learned a lot
Thanks for your comment. I have been asked alot about the 40V Ryobi. I did do a quick video about some problems with them. I just mentioned that for me they were so problematic that I stopped repairing them and just saved the good cells from the ones I had. I have been asked alot about them though. If I get some more I may look a little further into them.
I have a battery pack that wont charge even though all of the cells are at 3.64-3.67 volts. The voltage at the post (the part that slides into the tool or charger) is around 16 volts. But if you test the voltage across the cells on the board, it reads about 18 volts. I'm not sure if this is normal or the cause of my battery not charging. Do you have any ideas? Love your videos btw!
Seems like it could be the BMS board. The transistors on board can cut out or not fully turn on if a problem is detected with the pack. Sounds like your pack is pretty well balanced and voltage is high enough to charge so it is either a bad NTC or a fault in the BMS circuitry would be my guess.
@@ThriftyToolShed Hola ayúdame por favor ... Tengo una batería ryobi qué cuando la pongo en el cargador el cargador después de 5 segundos prende el foco verde de inmediato indicando que está cargada pero al medir la batería la batería solamente cuenta con 17 volts lo cheque con un voltímetro y cheque cada celda y cada celda está bien tiene alrededor de 3.6 v mi pila tiene leds indicadores de carga pero solo prende el primero indicando carga baja.... Yo pensé que podría ser una celda pero las celdas están bien lo revise por separado cada una de ellas... Entonces mi problema es que cuando la pongo a cargar el cargador casi de inmediato se pone en foco verde en luz verde indicando que está cargada.. pero la batería se queda en los 17.68 volts... Qué podría ser me podrías ayudar por favor
How old is that batterie????
I am trying to remember. It seems like it was around 8 years old at the time of the video which was almost 4 years ago. I don't remember if I mentioned the date I bought the pack or not honestly.
How to reset the BMS in this type of battery? I have four leds flashing four times and it is dead :(
Some of these boards have a microcontroller programming header or at least the pads on the board for it and you can jump GND to RST to do a microcontroller reset. Sometimes it helps and sometimes not. I have a video on a ECHO 58V pack repair and it helped on that one and I shared that on the video. I also have a video on the Ridgid 18v Hyper Lithium pack and I shared the reset on it as well, but it was not the whole issue on that one. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed Unfortunately this type of pad does not exist in this battery. I have searched for it very carefully and... nope. That's why I asked my question :(
Second thing, what kind of replacement we can use if the original BMS is damaged?
It is a few packs that do not have that. The only way to do it without that is to look up the microcontroller spec sheet and finding the reset pin and jump that way or desolder the tab that goes from cell to board to break the power to board completely for a about 30s then reattach? You can find replacement BMS boards for these on eBay. Last I checked it's almost as much as buying the cheaper aftermarket pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed The sad thing is that in the newest version of the BMS board, Ryobi put some kind of gel on the bord surface. Like in wash machines. Impossible to mesure anything, desolder etc. Bastards... :)
@@ukaszseklecki6177
That is such a pain!
Mine shows 18 volts at the batteries but not much at the post terminals..suspect the BMS has gone..any ideas???
The mosfets on the BMS will cut the power to the terminals (post). Some versions of these packs the push button "fuel gauge" will activate the mosfets for a few seconds while testing, most older versions do not have this, they cut the power when issue detected with the cells such as low voltage on a cell, over voltage or if NTC picks up a temperature issue!
@@ThriftyToolShed - for situations like in this comment, with all cells totaling 18V but nothing at the output posts, do you ever salvage the BMS boards from batteries where too many cells were dead (so not worth fixing) and use those salvaged boards to fix a battery with cells that are reaching 18V but no output?
@@stevebabiak6997
I have done that. Also with some Ryobi packs as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed - thanks, so my idea to keep salvaged spares isn’t a bad idea.
Do you know a US source for Samsung 1300 mah cells? Great video, I established that my P104 has a pair of dead cells
I don't know of a us source. I see the LG preowned below for sale that are close but not much else, getting harder to find 1300's!
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273873485772
If I fail to find a source of 1300mah cells, what would be the problem with using, say, 2500mah cells instead?
I believe it would be badly unbalanced in such a arrangement honestly. I always try to find the closest replacement as possible or change all cells out to the new ones if cost justified. That's why every time I work on batteries I keep the good cells from some really bad packs and over time build a fairly good spare assortment. Best of luck!
Two 1200mAH batteries in parallel gives you a total of 2400mAH hours capacity; if you can only get a 2500mAH replacement, try using just one of them instead of two cells. That keeps overall capacity close to what would be expected from the original pair of cells.
@@stevebabiak6997 Thanks, I gave up and bought a new battery
@@martinhamblett3444 - well, the next guy who can’t get the exact or closely matching cells might now have an idea they can try.
In another comment on this video, I mentioned that the parts from inside the dead batteries might be worth keeping to fix other batteries.
I got 2 small and 2 big batteries down I wish I could just send them to you for repairs and pay you something for tour time
I Test a Battery Before I Put Voltage Accross It. Then When I See That
None Of The Cells Are Defective
Then I Put Voltage Accross It.
For the LOVE OF GOD, through all these videos, I cannot find the hidden screw on the top of the base. 1 stem screw and 4 underneath.
I see what could be 2 plastic "plugs" on the backside of the base, Southeast and Southwest of the stem, if the stem side of the battery is closest to you.
I hope that makes sense. I've tried prying but it seems more resistive that should be, so I don't want to force it.
I've had an 18650 burst/erupt/runaway once before and I'm VERY respectful of them in general, so I'll patiently wait for advice versus burning down my garage.
Thanks in advance, sorry for the hijack. Be well.
Ok, so you have not gotten the battery case to seperate at all? And you have removed 4 security screws around the top of the pack and you have even removed the very top stem screw as well?
@@ThriftyToolShed correct. I've tried prying with many safe items, but it seems too tough, and I don't want to damage it.
I have taken one screw out of the stem, and four screws out of the bottom side of the battery. The screws for my battery are not accessible from stem/top, they are accessed from bottom of pack, where the label and vent holes are.
I greatly appreciate the response, thank you!
Correct. On all the Ryobi packs I have, that is all the screws. The 4 bottom and the one on top of stem. It is difficult to pry open some of these packs. They have little catches along the joint of the pack. It should pop up with a little prying...
@@ThriftyToolShed in your video, at 51 seconds, when you are prying on the stem side of the battery, your starts to separate, mine refuses. I'm good at breaking things by force.
I've seen some other videos that show hidden plugs that you have to pry out or drill through which I have tried to do as well, and I now have a hole where one of the plugs should supposedly be, but I'm afraid to increase the size of the holeas I do not want to get hurt or damage the battery pack.
I have showed pulling plugs out of a few of the packs in my videos but that is one of the 4 on the lower half of the pack. Still only 5 screws with all mine, some had the plug that I show digging in and prying out and some did not have any. Either way that is my experience just 5 screws total on mine. Some packs are hard to seperate the lower half at the seam, I have had to pry hard on some, once it pops and you work it all the way around then pry the stem center down usually with a small screwdriver inserted at the top.
Every video skips or fast forwards the part where the case opens. I have all the screws out and something is still holding it together on one end.
It has been a few years and I do remember fast forwarding through opening the case. If I remember I still showed removing all screws including the one on the very top of the connection post. I also shared the prying around the case top as well as the post housing separating from the connector. Most models have the 5 screws and the Ryobi clips are pretty tough to pry apart.
@@ThriftyToolShed yes it was those dumb hidden clips that wouldn't let go. I felt like I was going to break it. In the end, I discovered half my cells were badly bulging and corroded.