I repair these as well. Nice job explaining things. Thanks! Some constructive criticism: You mentioned that your replacement cell needs to match the capacity of the other four cells. Bravo. Most people ignore that crucial step. However you didn’t bother to measure the capacities of the other four. Going by the spec sheet doesn’t account for several years of cycling up/down. The other four were most likely degraded a bit, from 1500mAh down to 1000mAh depending on age, exposure to high heat, rate of charging & discharging, etc etc. I use alligator clips and connect a cell to an Opus charger/ capacity tester.(only one cell at a time or you’ll short out the string of cells) After confirming the capacities, I can then choose the most appropriate replacement cell. It’s worth mentioning that the cells inside these cordless tools are high current cells. Often rated for 20 Amps continuous (or more) discharge current. Your viewers should Not try using an “ordinary” 18650 cell in these battery packs. Typical 18650’s only deliver 3 to 5 Amps Max. and will cause issues in this high current application. People need to understand the difference between “AmpHours” and “Amps”. Amphours is a measure of how much energy the cell can store. But Amps is how much current the cell can deliver to a load instantaneously. Even if you take the time to capacity match your cells, the Max current delivery capability of the cell really matters. This is known as the “C” rating. Another comment, when replacing cells, it’s best to match the voltage of the other four cells. Maybe you edited that step out due to time constraints of the video length. Last comment… when prying on these battery packs and circuit boards don’t use a screwdriver. Use a bamboo chopstick. It won’t short circuit anything. Thanks again for a great video.
While this is an older video, thanks for any constructive feedback. I do have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" since I realized I could not take the time to mention all the testing I perform in every video for time constraints. I do try to mention much of this in that video and I left it open to add a FAQ#2 or more if needed as things change. I have been needing to update the typical asked questions and need to find the time to make the FAQ#2. I talk in many videos about the cells being capacity matched ( I think some get tired of hearing it) and absolutely use the opus as one test for sure. I mentioned in a more recent M18 12Ah pack video about how those 21700 cells are bad about dropping in capacity over time. Even the Samsung spec sheet test data shows that. It's a thing I talk about a good bit. Thanks for your comment!
Live your videos man .Your voice is so calm . I allso repair batteries. I replaced all cells in a Ryobi 1.3 ah. I replaced them with 2ah cells. Works good but if I leave the battery fully charged. In a week its completely dead. So dead the charger will not charge it. It's a old style. Without a fuel guage. So in thinking the board sucks it all the way down.
I'm a retired electronic technician and I agree with some of your statements. I've found these batteries when left in a unplugged charger or tool will drain due to parasitic loss. When jump starting with another well know good battery jumping directly to the drained battery pack before the charge control board is safe as only good cells will take a charge. If there is a dead cell it will not deliver full voltage to control board.
Thanks for your comment. As far as pack jumping goes, I am not guessing, I have experience with it. It's the shorted cells I am concerned with, not the dead or opened CID etc. I have one video that I shared a little about this on a 40V Kobalt pack I was looking into for a friend. This pack is a great example of not knowing what you are jumping. Thanks again for sharing! th-cam.com/video/1ucbqglhyBk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the great guide work. Did exactly what you showed and I have two more extra P107 and they are back from the dead. Thx brother. Keep making those vids man. I subscribed, no need to ask 🙂
Genuine Ryobi batteries are just way too expensive to replace, so I'm glad I found your video which was easy to follow. It helped me ressurect an old Ryobi battery pack and saved me having to (cringe at the thought) order one of those cheap Chinese alternatives from Amazon.
i found a repair for a ryobi "clone" battery (non genuine) that stopped working. after opening i thought i saw the problem. the nickel strip had come adrift from the last set of cells. (the negative terminal end) so i soldered it back on., but it still wouldn't power a tool. all the cells had about 4 volts on each and i had about 17 volts measured across the terminals. the volts were there but not the amps also the voltage check button didn't work. the battery plugged into a charger flashed red for a few seconds then turned solid green, but it refused to power a tool. in frustration i soldered a wire from the negative end of the battery where it connected to the pc board and soldered it directly to the connection strip, bypassing the pc bit altogether. low and behold everything worked. the check light had full bars the charger accepted it as fully charged and the tool powered up. hope this works for others
So, if that pack is made similar to the Ryobi pack then that does bypass the Mosfets on the BMS board. That will allow the cells to be pulled too low with no cut off so be careful with that. It could possibly over charge as well if something went wrong with the charger. I talked briefly about bypassing the Mosfets as a troubleshooting measure in a Ridgid 18V Hyper-lithium pack repair video. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
I was hoping you would do an individual cell voltage test after replacing the one cell, discharging the whole battery pack and recharging it, to see how the bms handled the new cell.
Although I did do it, I edited alot out due to time. Videos sometimes start out hours long and I am trying to balance showing enough good viable information and all the long videos I have in the past have had comments about the length of the video. I am trying to get better at filling in at least mentioning that I am doing something even if I can't show it all. Very good point sir. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for creating such a helpful video! I'm having trouble with my P107 batteries that came with a P117 charger. I have had the batteries about 5 years, they have probably only had 30 charging cycles in that time. They have never been abused, always stored charged. Both batteries are only lighting one green bar on the battery pack 'fuel gauge'. When I place them on the charger, the charger recognizes them, but doesn't charger them, instead the 'battery charged; energy save' light clicks on. I opened the battery pack and checked the individual cells with a multimeter and they measured as follows: 3.61, 4.03, 4.07, 3.97 and 4.03 and that was the worst of the two batter packs. So, none of the cells are below the 2.5 threshold and their voltage differences don't seem very extreme. And visually, the individual cells are in excellent condition. I can't figure out why they won't charge. I tried to check the charger with the multimeter to see if it is working properly, but couldn't get any reading at all, I figured I must be doing something wrong. My experience and understanding of electrical components is very limited, but it strikes me as odd that these batteries won't charge. Any suggestions?
Hello PL, my problem is exactly the same as yours, even the voltages in the batteries are the same. After the load indicates that it is 100% loaded, when I shoot it only shows a pin. When I put the multimeter on the diagonal poles of the batteries it shows 19v, but when I test it on the normal battery output it only shows a maximum of 7v. Did you get any solution?
@@luanscavalcanti It pained me to do so, but I gave up on repairing the battery packs. Since there was nothing obviously wrong with the individual cells, I had to assume there was an issue with the circuit board. I couldn't justify the cost and aggravation of trying to replace the circuit boards when I wasn't very sure about I was getting into. Especially since I was able to but a two pack of off-brand batteries from Amazon for $35 that had excellent customer ratings. It really annoyed me to do it, now I have 2 ryobi batteries that don't work but the cells are fine, such a waste of materials.
Sorry to hear it did not work out. I have not had the exact issue yours have, it seems like the BMS board is the issue, the mosfets on these will cut the power to the pack if issue is picked up. Could be temp or NTC issue or cell voltage monitor feedback, but the BMS seems to think it has an issue and disconnecting using the mosfets or the mosfets are open. And yes replacement packs are cheap and I actually have adapters to use my DeWalt and M18 packs with my Ryobi tools now but I still like to repair and give new life to what I can. At least you have good spare cells!
Hi PL, I also have the same problem with my P107 battery. No problems with any of my other batteries. I'm thinking that there may be a problem with the P107 boards. Has anyone discovered how to reset the microprocessor?
What I'd like to know is How to remove the Load shut off feature the ryobi batteries have. I use them to power other things and the ryobi's cut out where my desalts have no problem ...? thanks in advance!
Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
Good job and thanks for sharing. Just a few comments that I hope you and your followers will find helpful going forward. The reason there is often no voltage measured at the battery pack connection point is because the output MOSFETs are biased off by the protection circuit which also prevents charging from these output terminals. This is also the cause of the no charge condition indicated by the Ryobi charger flashing red switching to green then back to red. Therefore, even after replacing a defective cell or cells, a defect in the protection circuit will keep the pack from charging and will prevent it from operating in the tool. So if the protection circuit is correctly functioning and only engaging because of low cell voltage, replacement of the defective cell will result in normal charging and operation of the battery. This is a common failure in these packs regardless of capacity. Higher capacity packs using cells in a parallel makes cell replacement quite a bit more challenging but the cell replacement technique covered in the video is the same. The cell balancing IC along with additional external components in the Ryobi pack forms the basis of the protection circuit which controls the MOSFETS. I have been looking at protection circuit in more detail to characterize the failure point so that when this condition occurs, it can be addressed allowing the pack to be fully functional again. I will share what I find regarding this failure as time allows. If anyone has additional information on repair of the protection circuit loop, please post. Thanks again!
Yes, and you have me needing to go back and see if I edited the part out where I do mention the mosfets and the output voltage, I mentioned it but may have left it out trying to shorten the video! It also seems the newer packs only show output when the charge indicator button is pressed and after a few seconds shuts back off. The older versions are not that way. Great points and thanks for you comment.
Very informative video, Thanks. So I found a p107 pack at the recycle center and grabbed it and found 8 volts at the +/- terminals pushed the test button and no lights so I stuck it in the charger and it started charging and went to full charge, checked and all 4 lights were lit, but I still had 8v at the +/- terminals. I took it apart and found it had 20.6 on the corners of the circuit board so all the cells are good. I looked around the mosfet's on end and found only 8v on one side and nothing on the other side. Have you seen this and do you think one of the mosfet's is bad. I have decided from this, that the battery must not charge via the +/- which what the other terminals must be for but I'm not sure how it works. Thanks for any insights you may have
Have you tried using the pack in a tool? The 8V or so sounds normal if it is not woke up. If setting there asleep that seems normal. Most versions of the packs do wake up when you press the button, but it's possible I guess some may not. If it still doesn't work in the tool then it could be the Mosfets not turning on from BMS or Mosfets bad. Thanks for your comment.
@@ThriftyToolShed That's amazing!! It fired right up when I put it in the drill and now measures 20.6 at the +/-. I did not really get the wake up idea from the video, not because you didn't explain it properly, but because the penny didn't drop till I tried it this morning. Thanks again you're awesome! Who can argue with free power LOL
Hey, you helped me out. I had a pack with a blown cut-out transistor and couldn't figure out the part (on mine it's an MXP4002, which is obsolete). I've ordered a pair of IRF1404Z and hopefully that will bring this pack back.
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on! DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN, BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE. NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES. THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT. ************************ ******************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!! ----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!! ***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE!
Be careful, I was prying up a tab on one of the batteries and it sprayed out like aerosol spray in my eyes. I washed them out under facet for 10 minutes and had no ill effects but just a warning. I should have had additional safety glasses on but I had moved my glasses down a bit to see better close up and that is when it happened. Prying up on a tab must of created a puncture on the cheap battery and it spray in my face and eyes.
Thankyou for your video. My situation is interesting. Dismantled unit all cells look ok with total voltages reading 17.9 volts. The voltage on the external points reads 4.7 volts. I therefore suspect circuit board fault. When paced into charger it charges for 30 seconds then indicates full charge. Would appreciate your thoughts
So, is it not powering the tool at all? Some will not show output of the pack until a load is sensed. I showed this in a video of the Ridgid pack repair I did. Both packs are made by TTi so they are similar in some ways. It seems the problem is the BMS board to me. You may want to try the reset on the board as a long shot, also mentioned on the Ridgid video as well as the Echo pack repair that I have.
I have similar problem with p102. I received used not working charger showing faulty Boosted with another battery was able to charge and use for a period. Used with old blue sawsall and drained too low with battery allowing me to use after sat a minute but fortunately was in a hurry to finish. Now even with a boost battery charger indicated fully charged at Around 15v. Checking individual cells I have two that are 1.6. When I boost those individual cells with a 26650 with leads. The will go to around 3.5 maybe 3.8. That are both a little different. But they immediately start to fall one way faster than the other. Before I replace cells was hoping to get some insight on if that would be correct to do ? Or with this condition would it be something else or just one cell or both ? Also even after boosting with 26650 the charger still will not read. Thanks ahead and great content ..
Hopefully no one has asked this already. Are these boards made to only work with the specs of the cells they come with? I thought about replacing all the cells with some that were a higher mAh rating. Like going from 2000 mA to 3000 mA. Will that work, or will the chips on the board not allow for the change? Have you ever tried this? I figured since the cost difference was nominal and the cells are good quality Samsung, it might be worth the increase in run time to give it a shot. I haven’t done it yet, and I thought you might know if it would work. Thanks for the informative and well made video.
They should work with any capacity cells that use the exactly same chemistry. These batteries do not use a 'coulomb counter' charge monitor as laptop batteries do. They work entirely on the cell voltage. That makes them less accurate for the charge display, but unlike a laptop it is not critical to know if you have 2 minutes or 15 minutes remaining. For those that are interested in the details, they use a chip such as the CellWise CW1053 or similar for charge control. If there is a charge gauge with four LEDs it is likely designed around a LM339 (quad comparator), 18V zener diode, and a bunch of resistors. No microprocessor involved. There might to be a few small MOSFETs to apply power for a few seconds after the button is released, but some simply use the pushbutton.
They absolutely do use a microcontroller as many tool batteries do. DeWalt is one of the few that doesn't use a microcontroller. I have a couple of repair videos showing the reset on the microcontroller is sometimes helpful on Ryobi, ECHO, and Ridgid. I have seen it helpful at times. Not like the Laptops, but still most BMS boards have microcontrollers for sure.
Haven't had much experience with these batteries but last year I found one that the wires to the NTC ( temp sensor / thermistor) got pinched on a sharp edge , just the conductor was cut and the insulation intact so a bit tricky to see ........ easy fix compared to replacing a cell !
Appreciate the time you've taken to make this and the knowledge you offer to share. I have a 4ah ryobi battery with 2 rows of 4 18650's. The battery got some moisture in it, I was using it fully charged and then it just cut off and now the charger blinks twice like its defective and energy bars light all the way up and off and on again repeatedly. I took the cover off and every battery measures 3.24v perfectly. What could the problem be you think?
3.24 V isn't completely flat but its certainly down a bit, are you sure its not 2 rows of 5 batteries. I suspect you have the same problem I have with moisture causing the BMS board to fail. One day someone will discover exactly what component usually fails first when a board is wet and then we will be able to bring them back to life but until then I suspect a new (or good used) board is the only solution.
I have a Ryobi battery and it charge full 18V snap in the battery in weed eater and Dies charge the battery its at 14.5 try this 4x and get the same results how do I drain the battery do you have any ideals on how to fix this problem
I have not done so. I mentioned I'd they were similar as in similar in spec I would not think it's an issue. I would think the larger cells would be ok for the most part. The main issue I could see with larger cells is if the current is higher charging and discharging as well. A higher output cell can deliver more current even if voltage is the same. It could possible cause the board to shut off on overcurrent and potentially have the same issue with charging. Just a thought, I usually resolve mine with very similar spec cells.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for your reply and the info. I think I will try with Chinese 3000 mAH, as close to the current specs as possible just to establish if they will being all 5 batteries or cell the same. Remember the Chinese like to exaggerate numbers by listing 1500 mAH as 3000 and 3.6V as 3.7v and so on. I will let you know if it works for me. Thank you again
Excellent video my friend. Unfortunately for me it’s beyond my skills to fix batteries lol.. I’ll buy a new one to save myself the drama. But great information👌🏾👍🏾🏆
My P107 is showing all the lights for a split second and then the last one. I took it apart and each cell has a minimum of 3.5 volts. The overall for the pack is 18.9 but the tabs at the top only show 6.8 volts. Nothing on the board seems to be corroded or de-soldered. Any thoughts? Thanks
@@ThriftyToolShed It seems to charge for a bit and then goes into a slow blinking green light (full charge). Press the button and it shows 2 bars and is 6.9 v at the top. I've got three batteries all doing the same thing. Thanks
@@ffaubert1 I have not had one do that so not sure. Do you by chance have another charger to try? My chargers stays solid green when charged. Also I have seen batteries get a bad connection at the end tabs and it will act like that. It is very unlikely all three have that though! Also when you check your battery, it is hard to do both at same time but hold the meter on top terminals while pressing the fuel gauge button and see if you get your full voltage.
@@ThriftyToolShed Actually, I tried it on another charger with the same result. I tried the multimeter on both top tabs andnpressed the button and the voltage went up to 22 v.
I have a ryobi pbp005 18v lithium battery that shows 20v at the two "lugs" on the board but there's no voltage at the contacts on the tower. Is it a bad connection through one of the traces on the bottom of the board maybe?
I have a p108 4ah ryobi battery that measures 18 to 20 volts but will not power the drill or any ryobi tools. It ran tools with jumpers directly to the batteries. Im thinking the problem is in the control board. Have you run across this situation? The voltage at the top contacts is around 17 volts and all leds light with the battery test button. I left it on the charger for several days before this occured.
It is odd that it reads 17 volts at contacts and will not power tool. It must be dropping off under load? The Mosfets may not really be on. I have seen some of the later version Ryobi packs have a small electrolytic capacitor on board and it charges up and shows the voltage but drops right off. Without a schematic it is hard to narrow down the issue. I have had a little bit of luck if the board has a the ISP header with the reset. I have reset like I did in the repair video of the Echo 58V pack. Both made by TTI by the way. If that board has the header it is worth a shot to do a microprocessor reset. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks I appreciate your insites. I will check out your video you mentioned as I don't know what a header is or what the reset would look like.
@@potaylo It is usually just a unpopulated header spot, so like a row of solder plated thru holes in line on the board. I think the manufacturer uses them to Program/test at factory with like "bed of nails" type contact points etc. Some times they are marked with screen printing. Sometimes they do not. If so it will be marking such as VCC, VDD, RST, GND, etc. Not all boards with microprocessors have them, alot do. Hopefully you will see it toward the end of the ECHO 58V video and it will make sense. I believe that is the only Reset on video I have that actually worked. I have had other success on Ryobi 40V packs but it is the exception rather than the rule!
@@ThriftyToolShed I found the header and tried the reset but no luck I then put on my thick glasses and found evidence of over heating I bought another P108 to use the board. It is identical except 2 wires connecting the board to the battery clusters are jumped on one pack but not on my original. So not sure if I should keep them jumped. Thinking I will at this point as that's how it was wired from the factory.
I’m impressed with the way you present the problems and how to fix them. I have a P107 that is not working properly, I press the button to see how much charge it has and it shows one light. I checked the volts at the top of the battery and it shows 4.76 volts. So I took it apart to check for any bad cells and all of them are showing 4.1 or higher, and when I check the voltage from all of them , from the positive and negative side of all the batteries it’s putting out 17-18 volts, but when I check the post for voltage, it gives me 4.75. And I can charge it till the battery is done and it doesn’t take a charger. Can you please help me with this problem, I think it’s somewhere in the circuit board and I’m not that very good at working on them.
Thanks for your kind comment. So, what does it do once inserted into a tool and used? The Mosfets are not ON unless it is in use and the top terminals will read a low voltage reading as you described when not active or should I say while the Mosfets are not turned on. Since you have verified all cells are charged and balanced, If this pack does not work while in tool it is an issue with BMS not allowing the output! Rarely it is the Mosfets themselves and also rarely some models can start working again after doing a microcontroller reset. I have mentioned the reset on a couple pack videos such as the Ridgid 18V pack and the ECHO 58V pack video. Again, it's rare but it is worth a shot if your model has the header with reset easily accessible. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
@@MrScott12367 The reset is not an actual button, but a lot of packs have a header (or atleast a row of plated through holes that a header might would be). In that row of several header or test points if you will, you will sometimes see an abbreviation for reset. I have several videos that I mention the reset in including a Ridgid pack repair and the EGO 58V pack repair. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
my battery fully charges but when I switch my power tool on it starts for about 1 or 2 seconds then stops .. I've used both my new orbital polisher and hand vacuum cleaner .... I did notice that one cell is slightly lower than the others in my 108 2ah battery... would this cause a fail safe function to step in and shut down its power output ? ...
Hi, Mine Had the Sanyo UR18650SA Cells. I always replace these with some from 18650 battery store since these are high in price as compared to others available with similar spec.
Let me know if you can't find it in the video description, it should be there. I will clean up the surface well and use RA rosin flux or Amtech 559. Then use a good Leaded 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder. Heat super quick, puddle and then quickly cool off with a damp cloth. I will say since the cheaper spot welders have become available I very rarely have to resort to soldering. Some nickel strips are still too thick, but most are fine. I will also use .15 nickel strip and spot weld with the cheap spot welder and then spot weld it to the thicker factory strip. I will only do that if I have issues welding it to the cell though. Best of luck to ya!
Great video and advice. The only thing I missed is how you soldered the battery back in. I'm used to using rosin-filled solder for wires. How is this soldering job different and what kind of iron would I need?
I have shown in several previous videos how I solder the cell back in. So to save time alot of detail of that was left out of this video to shorten it as much as possible. I also use rosin core solder and it is great. I am simply adding much more rosin flux to help with the process. Its not a absolute necessity, but for me it helps make a much faster and all around better joint. It helps with heat transfer as well as helping with any impurities.
@@ThriftyToolShed Well, I checked my batteries and they were all equally low (less than a volt) so I charged them up with a low-amp 6-volt DC power supply. When I plugged it back into the charger, the testing (red) light just keeps flashing and never goes to charge (green).
@@sswanjam1 Its good they are equal. Not good at all to be below 2.7V each or so. Most Ryobi chargers need at least 14V or so on the pack to actually start charging?
@@ThriftyToolShed Yep. I put a 20v supply on for a few minutes and got it up. Now it's charging. However, when I tried that with the second one, I accidentally reversed to polarity :-/ Now I don't think its prospects are good. At least I save one of them, thanks to you. Thank you very much.
did the reset on one you showed and it started working. but the other didn't. it had corrosion on the board, i cleaned it, with vodka, it looks clean but still wont work, i reset it and still nothing. that button inside that you push though, it made the first light flash 4 times.
That's Something I Never Had To Do With Any Of My Ryobi Batterys except One Of My Batterys Has A Test Light That Don't Work. I Took It Apart & Fixed It Once & Now I'll Have To Fix It Again. So Could It Be A Loose Solder Connection Or A Bad Switch?
It absolutely can affect them. Lithium batteries rely on chemical reactions to work, and the cold can slow those reactions from occurring. Although lithium can handle cold better than others, very low temperatures still affect their ability to store and release energy properly. Since cold conditions drain these batteries, you’ll need to charge them more often. Unfortunately, charging them in low temperatures is not as effective as doing so under normal weather conditione.
?, did same thing, found 1 cell 1.5 v out of balance, tore apart, recharged all to full, reads 19-20Vs at main post pre circuit board, but only 8.97 at drill contacts? Leds show full when I hit the button? I think it a bad PCM/boards Any thoughts?
Very possible that the board is causing it. Sometimes it's the Mosfets but rarely for me and sometimes it needs the board reset which is more rare but works sometimes. Not all boards have the header pins or pads so you can jump to reset but most do. I show this in a few videos including a 58V ECHO pack repair also on the Ridgid 18V pack. I have had more luck with either bad cells to replace and also corrosion build up on the board some like in the Ridgid pack video it's hard to even tell corrosion is causing it!
ive got a a 5.5ah batter across the terminals 18,8v but on the output 1.5v any ideas how i reset it. It shows as fully charged on the charger but is simply restricted to 1.5V all the cells are 3.7v
Hello again. Have you replaced the BMS or control board on these Ryobi? It is puzzling to me that the board would allow discharge so low you have to manually charge it.
I have not replaced a BMS on these yet. Sometimes I get a hold of alot of these and I keep the cells that tested well. I have not taken the time to replace the BMS. The problem with the BMS controlling the output of the pack is that it also seems to drain the pack some even after the pack is shutdown. I have not taken the time to figure out why some packs seem to keep pulling down worse than others, but they without question, have a major issue. TTI that make the Ryobi, Ridgid and others seem to overcomplicate the boards they manufacture and even some of the newer Brushless tools as well.
I use 18650batterystore.com for most of my cell replacement. It depends on which cells are in them. They are different in packs in different years etc. I would go with very close matches if trying to replace less than all the cells in a pack. If you are replacing all cells then you can always experiment and even go a little higher in capacity if you want to as long as they are all matched. I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that may answer more questions if you find it handy. Best of luck to ya and Thanks for the sub!
Hey man, awesome video. I have this exact p107 battery. Every cell is 3.9 volts. Only 1 light comes on the led on the actual battery. However the 2 main leads the ones that are on the neck of the battery ready 16 volts. 1 battery is not getting the voltage up there through the board. Help!!
@@ThriftyToolShed yes sir. Its crazy. N when i hit the button to wake up battery so to speak its 18+ volts but it goes back down to 5v its insane. I feel i should mention they did sit dormant fully charged for over a year.
@@louiselhalim4245 I'm having the same problem. Two packs sat in the intellicharger for a while, worked for a day now won't work. Both show a split second full then down to one bar on the meter. All cells minimum 3.7v across the terminals individually but only 6.44v across the top stem terminals. Need help!
Hi Thrifty, Just wanted to know if you do battery conversions like from ni-cd to li-ion and if so I just would like to know the proper way to do it that I can use my other li-ion charger on the converted batteries, cause I have two old ryobi ni-cd batteries that don't hold any charge anymore so I bought two new li-ion batteries with charger and was thinking to convert the old ones to li-ion and be able to use the charger from the new ones I know the li-ion batteries have BMS board in them from videos I've seen, that being said what would be the best way and best material to do it with... Thank you..
Hi, I have not done that exactly. I have rebuilt old 18v Ni-cd and added BMS. I also use my M18 or DeWalt packs with the Ryobi adapter. So since I have those batteries in good shape, I decided to go that route. th-cam.com/video/wEnHPzQvbzk/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/5NqbYkMsOYk/w-d-xo.html
I use the MG chemicals RA flux. I like to buy the bulk 1000ml size it's so much cheaper and it lasts for years. I also really like the Amtech 559 flux for SMD board rework. Amtech 559 Flux amzn.to/3RmBqaA MG RA Flux amzn.to/3BFkYNV
I have a 5ah pack that has stopped charging. This has a dozen cells (6 pairs). Reading across the individual pairs of cells, each one shows 3.1 volts and reading from one end of the battery pack to the other shows 19 volts, yet I'm only seeing 10v on the output connectors. I presume that the BMS has gone bad. Now I also have a 2ah pack that is behaving perfectly. I'm wondering if I could take the BMS board from my 2ah pack and put it in the larger one. I find the extra life I usually get from the bigger cell pack really useful. So the question is really, Is there any difference in the BMS for a bigger battery pack?
At 3.1V it should take a charge. It's almost like it thinks at least one of the cell banks is less than 3V? Have you tried charging the cells or the whole pack some with a bench power supply set at 1 to 2A max CC. And either max of 4V across one bank at a time or 20V max across the complete pack? That may help it take charge? As far as the BMS board goes, typically the larger/higher AH packs have higher current rating Mosfets on the board. If they are the same it might work to swap it out, it's hard to say since Ryobi has so many models and variations of these packs since they first came out!
@@ThriftyToolShed Yay I found it! It was one of the tiny wires that comes up from the battery pack to the board. It was broken at the solder joint but, since it was still in position, there was no way to see that it was broken. I only discovered it by sheer fluke. As I was testing the diodes on the board, my daughter said "What's that button for?" and as she pressed it the little charge indicators lit up. Much to my surprise. As soon as I picked up the whole thing it stopped working again. Kinda confirming it's just a dodgy contact somewhere. Then just wiggling everything in sight, finally found the issue. It even had a couple of bars of charge left but the charger is also now accepting it. :)
You have options if you still have good working tools you want to keep going. Although you can still repair ni-cd batteries, they are just not good tool batteries. Lithium has honestly taken cordless tools to a new level. I have a couple tools such as a black and Decker 18v pole saw that I have made an adapter for to fit newer 18v batteries. It improves the tool. Sometimes you can find adapters online like the M18 to Ryobi one I did a video on and it works well!
I’m getting around 5v at the tower, 18v at the pack, and 4v, 2.5v, and 3.5v on the other three. Is the low cell the only bad one? Or all that are below 4v? My charger shows the battery is fully charged and goes into maintain mode.
They are unbalanced for sure. You can try to balance them by charging up each individual cell bank to being 4V and all balanced to see how they perform. Most likely the capacity has been diminished on some cells and they will get unbalanced again due to discharging at different rates. Some will slowly drop in storage on their own when going bad.
Hi, This is a Hammerhead. It's a older model now. They were bought out by Chervon the makers of EGO, Flex and Skil and now they have the Skil driver similar to it and it's very reasonable. I also have a video sharing the similarities below if interested with links in the video description if needed. I also really like the new DeWalt Gyro driver that I have a newer video on as well. th-cam.com/video/fjQx-TMbb1k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YxPPPG3DDe8JntkM
Thanks for your kind comment. I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Have a question on a 10 cell 18650 ryobi 18v battery P104. The first 2 batteries that are stacked on top of each other and start the positive connection just on those 2 batteries then on the negative side connect to 2 more batteries. These batteries only keep discharging. I have replaced them 3 different times with fully charged batteries that will sit on my bench for over a month and hold the charge, but as soon as I install them within a day I start to see the charge drop. In about 3 to 4 weeks just those batteries are discharged. Is there something I can check to see why 3 different sets of batteries of 2 always discharge? Thank you.
I have seen that on some of these Ryobi packs. Usually it is the BMS board causing the drain. It may be hard to locate on the board. If you give it a try I would look at the small transistors around the cells and even the ceramic caps. If you have a thermal camera you may find a warm spot when the cells are charged up and sitting and discharging. And maybe not if it's a slow drain.
@@ThriftyToolShed -i just found you & subscribed half way into, i like your style, very knowledgable, direct, calm no bs, all the real actual problems and how to fix them the right way as easy as possible. your channel must be really new! because you only have 1k subscribers, bro i have a feeling that this channel is gonna be growing alot in the future!!! that's awsome, i am happy for you. you get out what you put in,
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on! DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN, BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE. NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES. THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT. **************************** **********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!! ----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!! ***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE! THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE, **OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on! DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN, BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE. NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES. THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT. ************************** ********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!! ----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!! ***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE! THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE, **OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
That is the HammerHead. They were bought out by Chervon so now it's similar to the Skil as shown in the video below if you find it helpful. th-cam.com/video/fjQx-TMbb1k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iwPp6JsTc_G6XOfR
I have the older battery pack, P103, you showed at the end and you tested the voltage of each cell but you didn't test the output at the pedestal or riser post. My pack shows all good voltages but the pedestal terminals only show 7.5 volts, yet total voltage of all the cells in series shows over 19 volts. I was hoping you would show how to troubleshoot this particular scenario and how to determine the problem and resolve it. Please let me know if you have a solution that you used if you had come across this particular problem before, thanks, great video, I just did what you did to the newer pack you repaired, P190, but mine it actually would not charge, each battery had 0.20 volts and I applied jumper cables directly to the positive and negative ends of the series of batteries and then connected the jumpers to a known good battery pack using the terminals on its pedestal, and monitored the voltage as it brought the voltage up to around 12 or 14 volts, dropped it in the charger and it recognized it as good and charged the pack back up. It was at 0.20 volts on all cells, but discharged while it sat idle in a Ryobi FM radio and it was practically brand new, but ignored for months of unuse and left in the radio which has a parasitic voltage draw to keep the channel memory alive
These packs are really bad about similar issues. The Mosfets are supposed to stop the pack from depleting, but often the pack gets pulled down way to low. No 18650 cell or any lithium cell for that matter should ever be allowed to go below 2.7V or so. If the cells drop down to around 1.8 to 2.5v they usually bounce back pretty well. If below they most likely are at least reduced capacity if not damaged and will internally slowly drop off to zero on there own. I test this with discharge constant current battery tester and see if the cells are in decent shape. I also check them after charging back up and see if they over time drop off in voltage. A fresh Li-ion will hold the charge for quite some time. I have some that are still close to fully charged after 1 year on the test bin. The issue with the voltage not reaching the riser post is because of the Mosfets not turned on. The BMS board controls this. Not all packs are the same. Some cut on when the button is pressed for battery level or when load detected, some have no level gauge they only sense the load. I do have a video on the Ridgid 18V hyper lithium pack which is also made by TTI like Ryobi and it is similar. I show how I sometimes jump the reset on the board at times to help resolve some issues, but this one was corrosion on the board causing issues. I have had some Ridgids and of course Ryobi's do that as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the prompt reply back I would liike to know how to turn the Mosfets back on. This battery pack does not have a battery level on it. I did try putting a load on it thinking it would do what you mentioned but that did not work either, although the newer pack I revived did something similar, it showed low voltage too on the stalk but once I put it in the drill it worked and then the meter showed 19 volts plus on the stalk contacts. I also was wondering if say one or more of the batteries were not balanced with the other batteries would that cause the Mosfets to not switch on? Meter readings Total voltage of series pack 19.22 V Stalk voltage 7.13 volts
Yes the cells unbalanced will cause that for sure. That's one of the first things to check is that all cells are atleast 2.7v and above and are all balanced. Then the bms board typical fix is the board cleaning or reset like in the Ridgid video I have. The rare failure for me is the Mosfets themselves. I show done of that on the Ridgid pack as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed I forgot to mention also that when I put it in the Ryobi charger goes to the self test and then it goes to the green glow that's indicates it's fully charged
No, most of these boards are different. It may be possible to make one work in place of the other. It would most likely take a little bit of wiring change, but it's plausible at least. Some generic boards will work on many versions. Best of luck to ya!
Usually if the cell has reached Zero they are done. You can sometimes get lucky and get some capacity back from some by slowly charging with a CC and CV power supply. I sometimes use a cell capacity tester as well when testing cells. I shared some of this information in a video I posted more recently called "Lithium Battery FAQ #1" th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
I'm Having An Issue With One Of My Ryobi Batterys As Well The Led Indicater Wont Light Up But When I Put It On The Charger It Lights Up.
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I have a pack with 3 cells reading zero. Is it worth trying to revive it? I was planning on popping them out and trying to charge them in an 18650 charger. From my knowledge the battery died from never being used, not sure if that makes a difference.
Well, it is usually a loss in capacity even if the cells do revive. If the pack is dead and the cells physically look in good condition I would try to bump then up a little and see if they are ok. As long as you watch them and have a CV and CC supply I would hook to one at a time and try it set ps at around 2.0v and 500ma and make sure they don't heat up like they are shorted, then if ok take them up to around 4V at 1Amp charge rate. If no current flows even if 4v is applied then they could be opened up (CID activated). It could get the pack back operational even if at a lower capacity. once again I am cautious about cells that have reached zero, do not leave them charging or boost them unattended! Best of luck to ya!
Nice video! I think the circuit board or MOSFETs just went out in my old Ryobi P103 battery after I accidentally left it on the charger for about two weeks, and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot it further. Each cell is between 4.13 - 4.15V and total pack voltage is around 20.7 volts, but the external (pillar) terminal voltage is around 12V and won't run anything. If I put it back on the charger, the "defective" light blinks. If I put a load on the battery terminals (bypassing the circuit board) and draw the pack down to about 16V (3.2V per cell) and keep all the cells balanced (within 0.1V of each other), then the circuit board turns on again, and I get about 15.4V at the external (pillar) terminals. I have a Fluke 87 meter, but I'm not sure how to properly test the MOSFETs or the big diode, and I don't want to spend time and money ordering and replacing parts that might not be bad. Is it time to chuck it in the recycling bin? (My wife says I should have chucked it about two weeks ago, and she wants her kitchen counter back!)
You cannot repair it. Just buy a new PCB. Or use the cells to rebuild another high-current tool pack. Or donate them to somebody who knows how to do those things. The batteries can be worth up to $10 per cell (new), so don't just throw them away (or recycle).
@@johncoops6897 Thanks, any idea where I could buy a new board? The other battery pack went bad about a week after this one did, so now I have two packs with good batteries and failed boards. It's as if there is a timing circuit that kills the board after a certain number of years.
This is just one from eBay, I have not tried one myself or anything to say for sure. Even though not a bad price I was hoping the price would come down some and I would try one just out of curiosity? www.ebay.com/itm/184287694635
@@johndollison - I wish I had read your comment 2 years ago.... The board has reset pin that you can use to flash the BMS circuitry back to factory fresh. Just find the "RST" point on the board and short it to ground with a piece of wire for a couple seconds.
I am wanting to convert my Cordless tools to corded tools. what do you think would work best to wire in a dc power supply that provides the full V and A the battery would output if it were new and fully charged or get a power supply that matches the output of each battery when full and wire them in individually? or am I crazy and shouldn't try either method lol
I have several videos on the Ego 56V battery repair. Successful BMS repair on one and it was on a link at the end of this video! Thanks for your comment! th-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/w-d-xo.html
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on! DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN, BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE. NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES. THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT. ************************** ********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!! ----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!! ***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE! THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE, **OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
Hello TTS, I have a 5yr old 2.5 Ah pack that got wet and I suspect I now have a dead BMS board. All 5 cells read 3.9V but the tool terminals are only on 17.15V. Charger says faulty, no leds unless I jump RST and GND when all 4 flash 20 times. The curious thing is that the 2 MOSFETS both have the centre terminal unconnected, do they connect via their heatsink. Power switching would be dam difficult with only 2 leads connected!!
I have not. I have to admit I have gotten away from Ryobi mostly. I don't even have an HP tool. The battery packs are over priced and over complicated for little reason and the 40V platform is worse than the 18V. I do repair a few Ryobi packs from time to time to keep the tools I do still have functional, but I also have an adapter to use my M18 and DeWalt packs with also. It doesn't have low voltage cut off of course, but I just use them if needed and I am careful to listen for the tool slowing or getting weaker and remove the pack to recharge.
@@ThriftyToolShed yes i have checked the mosfits, cutt them off and tried them on multi meter they are working ok, oone of the mosfit is showing 20v while the right one is showing 8v connected in bms, i have noticed an smd transistor K72 it is giving 8v output to mosfits and behind this diode is getting 20v but giving an output of 8v, is it the culprit?
@@ThriftyToolShed mosfit is ok , i have cutt off both mosfits and measured them they both were showing same results on volt meter out side circut but inside circuit it only gives 8v
Have you by chance tried a microcontroller reset on this board? I did discuss this on a couple videos and it's got me out of a issue on some boards in the past. Less than 10% of the time it fixes an issue. I know the 58V Echo pack video has this mentioned on it. Basically same thing, header may be different on some boards though.
I have a P107 and when I test it at the top I have 7.7 V and when I take the pack out of the case I get 20 V for the whole pack and then when I test each individual none are lower than 3.7 and summer 4.0 I don’t know what to do next can you help.
Well first off how does it do inserted into a tool because that is normal until the pack wakes up and full output to the tool is applied through the Mosfets.
Well I inserted it in the tool and it seems to be running fine and now I took the battery out of the tool and the top is registering at 20 V but I’m still only getting two indicator lights I would have to use a tool to find out how long it would last
Also I have about 10 batteries in a bucket that I did not wanna throw away and since I’ve seen your video I’m trying to work on them I looked at somebody else’s video on how to jump one but that didn’t work and I want to do it correctly I really like the way you did your video and thank you for the help
I also have a TH-cam channel where I show how to do home repairs and some things on my truck I want to go ahead and put up a video on this battery once I can get through these and be able to do them correctly I would like to give a shout out to your channel if that’s OK with you because you help me first by you making the video and I’m able to watch it and second you responded quickly and help me with the first one so I want to let everybody know about that and again thank you
Hello. I have a P102 18v and all the cells are reading 3.48 i cannot get it to charge. Ther is some corrosion under the R34 resistor right where the negative terminal attached to the cells. Any ideas would be great. FYI I don't know what im doing or talking about i just followed how you measured voltage
Hi, Corrosion can be an issue for sure. I have a video on a Ridgid 18V HyperLithium pack and it was an corrosion issue on that. I use plastic safe contact cleaner to clean the circuit board and it helped that one. You have to be careful cleaning the board since it's in circuit and voltage applied. Since we are not completely removing the board it has to be non conductive and also plastic safe as well. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the help. Right after I wrote the question, I threw it on the charger, and it's was charging. I came back down an hour later, and the light was red. Again, the battery was 16.45 volts from the terminal. Every was over 3.5 volts. I only use it for a soldering iron ibmightbjust buy a new one
Probably won't get a reply since the video is 4yrs old but hey worth a shot I'm trying to fix a 4 ah Ryobi battery that won't charge and when you press the battery indicator all 4 LEDs flash , already checked the voltage on each cell pack en it's about 3.6 Volts and when I check the overall voltage of the packs I get around 18.2-18.4 volts which should be enough but when I test the actual post the goes into the tools I get 0.2 -0.3 volts . Any ideas on what it could be ?
Hi Alan, You have checked well to know that the cells are all showing around 3.6V and overall pack voltage is good. This pack seems to have an error on the BMS and not allowing the Mosfets to turn on power to the pack output post. If all cells test good as you have already verified I would try to do a reset on the BMS board. It is the last hope for one of these typically with this type of issue. Some boards have a small row of plated through holes on the board for a programming header or something similar and (if the board has this) you may be able to jump pins reset and ground and reset the microcontroller on the board. These pins are abbreviated a lot of times such as RST and GND (VSS). By jumping these pins for a few seconds you can sometimes get lucky. I show this on a Ridgid 18v pack and an Echo 58V battery pack repair in past videos if it helps. There are all a bit different even though all these are made by TTI. If your board does not have this header it may have a spot on the board marked as J1 and sometimes jumping those pins while holding down the fuel gauge button may reset the microcontroller. Best of luck to ya!
Sounds like a board issue. The mosfets are not allowing output to the output terminal is the most common cause. Sometimes these wake up after being put into the tool when working properly. When you have a board issue it will not. If you have checked that all cells are balanced well then all points to the board.
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells.
HI, do you have any ideas on a battery like this that when you press the button you get 4 green flashing lights, voltage of packs is up around 20 volts when you measure the batteries directly, but barely a few millivolts at the actual output of the battery where it contacts the tool. Put it in the charger you get rapid red flashing for a few seconds and then a slower red flash... Tried the jumper wire reset on the two TP points, but no joy...
I have seen it mentioned to hold down the battery gauge button while reset. I have not noticed a difference myself though. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure the NTC thermistor is ok.reddit.com/r/ryobi/s/GZjOCl2a1I
I have not used many of these myself to say for sure. I have a video on a Makita 18V that I bought a similar board and used. This is an example Ryobi board. Again, I have not used it. For example only. It also has the wiring information shown. amzn.to/3sAqaRu
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batterystore.com in the past.
Have you ever come across a pack where every cell has greater that 4v but there is a major drop in voltage at the positive and negative terminal? Like it reads 8 or 9 volts.
Yes, Ryobi has many generations of packs and far as I know all the Li-ion pack styles have Mosfets in the pack that will cut power and it is common to read about 8v or so. The newer packs with the charge level indicator will cut that power on while button is pressed and you should see the full 20V at the output. Some of the older type I believe you have to "wake it up" by either putting the pack in the charger or a tool, if I remember correctly!
Well, I have had more issues with Ryobi packs than any other brand myself. I have been using battery adapters for years now just about totally abandoning the Ryobi packs. Basically, it's the same price as a Miwaukee or DeWalt pack, and it makes no sense to me. The main issue with battery adapters is of course making sure we don't pull the voltage too low on the pack while in use. I can hear the different in performance on most tools to know when to pull the pack, but harder to tell on some tools. We simply don't have the low voltage protection on the Ryobi since its built into the pack, but the other packs hold up so much better.
I typically use 18650batterystore.com for cells. Sometimes they have really good deals in the SALE tab. I will sometimes buy all new cells for a pack if I can find a great deal. Other wise I usually use from my capacity tested supply on hand as long as the cells specs are almost identical.
My P107 battery pack - all of the batteries are like 0.2 volts. Tried applying 3.5vdc across each but they do not hold charge and don't show and current while charging. I think its unusual all 5 batteries won't charge at all. Any ideas?
If voltage is close to zero are the shorted cells or open? If you ohm them and they are shorted they are done if open it could be the CID activated and the top has "popped up" and opens cell. Either way the cells sound like they are done!
I popped the fuse thingy on one of the cells, or the cell itself. I was trying to raise the voltage to 12 volt so I could put it on the charger, by using a battery charger on the poles
I don't understand exactly what it is you have done. If you think that the cell is bad or either the CID for the cell has activated either way at a minimum the cell will need replacing. I shared a little bit of info on CID in a video a year or two ago on a 12V Hitachi battery. Best of luck to ya!
If you are looking for cells. I usually keep many spares that I test well. I also order some from time to time at 18650batterystore.com. I explained this in a video if it helps. th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
In the case of it being the board what is you experience with that. I have seen places on the net selling this boards at a reasonable price and bought in bulk even cheaper. Any chance you will be doing any videos on the rigid batteries? Would really like to know how to fix those when there is water damage from the guys leaving them in the rain I’ve seen those boards on the web as well but they seem to be a little more anti DIY than the rest.
I have used the replacement board for a Makita and have a video on that. It worked out pretty well for the money. I have not tried one on these or the Ridgid. I only have a couple of Ridgid packs and no issues yet, so no experience with that yet. On some Ryobi boards, I have had some luck at times doing a reset on the board. If no water damage or visible damage that is. I show this in a video I have repairing a ECHO 58V battery. I simply short between the reset(rst) pin and the ground (VDD) pin breifly and it resets the microprocessor. Some packs have these headers and some do not. Sometimes you get lucky and the reset gets it going.
Ryobi are sensitive to the slightest amount of moisture compared to Dewalt or Milwaukee My new 6AH just "died" pressing the button and no light. I have 3 ryobi like this. I took the top off but don't know how to take out the rest from the case. Is there a fuse or anything in these? Thnx
I have a video about Ridgid packs as well. They are also made by TTI and apparently have alot of corrosion issues aslo. I do not have a 6ah Ryobi to say for sure, but most of these packs have either a large PCB trace as a fuse or the metal nickel strips are necked down to size for fused over current protection.
Great video Sir. I was able to repair one of my batteries. I have another with a different issue and was wondering if you might be able to help me. I have a Ryobi P108, 4Ah pack that had moisture on the inside. I see no signs of damage or corrosion. The cells all read 3.6 and it reads 18.1 at the tool connection terminals. It did show some LED bars earlier when I was about to use it. Once I turned the tool on, it cut off and would not charge. Now the LEDs do not light up at all. I have jumped the RST to GND with no response. Also, most of the time it just blinks red on the charger, but every once in a while I will get it to blink green 4-5 times then goes back to red. Got any ideas?
Hi, great job on the first repair mentioned! I can only say at this point it could possibly be corrosion causing issues either on the microcontroller itself or a circuit feeding it. At this point only cleaning the board for possible corrosion as in the Ridgid Hyper lithium pack repair video I have may help? I always use a good quality plastic safe and non-conductive contact cleaning on these boards. Best of luck to ya!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
If you left a battery in a tool for like a month, like I did. And then discovered that the battery would no longer charge. I found a fix, stick the battery into a drill or another tool. If you still have a charge on the battery run the tool for about one minute and then remove the battery. It should charge at this point - not sure why this happens with Ryobi but it's happened to me twice now and this fix worked both times.
Interesting, almost always when one of my Ryobi packs would not charge, it also has zero output to the tools. I have seen the Mosfets not allow any or show any output with my meter and then putting them in a tool would then work and then the fuel gauge would show. That was just certain models and they would still charge though. What model Ryobi packs are you seeing this action?
I’m a new subscriber and love your content. Great meticulous explanations. I’m attempting to repair two P107 batteries. One has 1 bad cell and the other seems to be a bad mosfet, from what I can tell following your guidance. My question is, where do you buy the new cells and mosfets? I’ve been searching online and can’t seem to find them. My cells are LGDAHB21865 and the mosfet is IRF1404Z (2 long legs on each side and a short one in the middle). Excuse my lack of technical knowledge. I assume the mosfet is removed and soldered on the same as anything else. Thanks!
Something like this as an example. www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-IRF1404Z-F1404Z-TO-220-Transistor-N-MOSFET-/401519608384?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
As far as the cells go. You can't always find exact replacements even though that is best. I would compare specs with similar cells from 18650batterystore.com etc. And find closest match. I also use Soares from other donor packs I collect over the years and the cells tested good!
Just a constructive criticism: the charge current for the LG is 750mA (constant) and the Samsung is 0.91A or 910mA (constant). You compared the cutoff current of the LG with the constant current charge of the Samsung. Not a big thing but important when trying to get similar spec batteries.
Thanks for your comment. I thought I mentioned that in the video as well, but I must have cut it out when editing saving video time. Yes, I always compare specs and get as close as I have on hand. I rarely buy cells just for repair. I usually have donor packs with spare same spec cells also. But this one was different, but enough to get a useful pack again for free. I usually look at capacity and discharge rates closely and if I had a better setup I would even enjoy testing all cells and getting the best tested cells matched up in a repair. That's dreaming though, especially if it's a 10 year old battery....
I got the same problem. I replaced the whole batteries with new ones (fully charged and kept for more than a month). The battery worked for some time then went bad again! There must be a current leakage in the battery board!!!
I have absolutely had some that do the same thing. I believe that is why the lower capacity packs seem to have way more issues in Ryobi than the Large capacity packs. Many of them develope this issue. The worst by far though in my opinion is the 40V Ryobi packs.
Wonder if that is the same kind of problem with my Milwaukee lithium batteries that will not hold a charge. I can charge them to full charge indicator light says full charge. Without using them they will be dead in 2 weeks.
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on! DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN, BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE. NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES. THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT. ************************** ********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!! ----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!! ***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE! THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE, **OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
Well 18650 is a common rechargable Li-ion battery. You will want to make sure the specs are very close, if you are replacing all of them at once then you should be fine even if a little different. Of course when I mention specs, I mean making sure capacity such as 1500mah etc is the same, the charge current rating as well as the discharge rating etc.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sqeiOkSNRsU/mqdefault.jpg)
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](/img/tr.png)
I repair these as well. Nice job explaining things. Thanks!
Some constructive criticism:
You mentioned that your replacement cell needs to match the capacity of the other four cells. Bravo. Most people ignore that crucial step. However you didn’t bother to measure the capacities of the other four. Going by the spec sheet doesn’t account for several years of cycling up/down. The other four were most likely degraded a bit, from 1500mAh down to 1000mAh depending on age, exposure to high heat, rate of charging & discharging, etc etc.
I use alligator clips and connect a cell to an Opus charger/ capacity tester.(only one cell at a time or you’ll short out the string of cells)
After confirming the capacities, I can then choose the most appropriate replacement cell.
It’s worth mentioning that the cells inside these cordless tools are high current cells. Often rated for 20 Amps continuous (or more) discharge current. Your viewers should Not try using an “ordinary” 18650 cell in these battery packs. Typical 18650’s only deliver 3 to 5 Amps Max. and will cause issues in this high current application.
People need to understand the difference between “AmpHours” and “Amps”. Amphours is a measure of how much energy the cell can store. But Amps is how much current the cell can deliver to a load instantaneously.
Even if you take the time to capacity match your cells, the Max current delivery capability of the cell really matters. This is known as the “C” rating.
Another comment, when replacing cells, it’s best to match the voltage of the other four cells. Maybe you edited that step out due to time constraints of the video length.
Last comment…
when prying on these battery packs and circuit boards don’t use a screwdriver. Use a bamboo chopstick. It won’t short circuit anything.
Thanks again for a great video.
While this is an older video, thanks for any constructive feedback. I do have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" since I realized I could not take the time to mention all the testing I perform in every video for time constraints. I do try to mention much of this in that video and I left it open to add a FAQ#2 or more if needed as things change. I have been needing to update the typical asked questions and need to find the time to make the FAQ#2. I talk in many videos about the cells being capacity matched ( I think some get tired of hearing it) and absolutely use the opus as one test for sure. I mentioned in a more recent M18 12Ah pack video about how those 21700 cells are bad about dropping in capacity over time. Even the Samsung spec sheet test data shows that. It's a thing I talk about a good bit. Thanks for your comment!
A ghost left a package of bamboo chop sticks in my house, now I understand what they are for. He knew I'd be attempting to repair Matthews battery 🙄
How refreshing it was to go to TH-cam searching for an answer and actually finding one from someone who knows more about the subject than I do.
It's not what you know it's who you blow, friend told me 😭
Live your videos man .Your voice is so calm . I allso repair batteries. I replaced all cells in a Ryobi 1.3 ah. I replaced them with 2ah cells. Works good but if I leave the battery fully charged. In a week its completely dead. So dead the charger will not charge it. It's a old style. Without a fuel guage. So in thinking the board sucks it all the way down.
Yes, those boards are so notorious for that. Good thing the BMS is protecting from over discharge huh...🤔
Thanks so much for your kind comment!
I'm a retired electronic technician and I agree with some of your statements. I've found these batteries when left in a unplugged charger or tool will drain due to parasitic loss. When jump starting with another well know good battery jumping directly to the drained battery pack before the charge control board is safe as only good cells will take a charge. If there is a dead cell it will not deliver full voltage to control board.
Thanks for your comment. As far as pack jumping goes, I am not guessing, I have experience with it. It's the shorted cells I am concerned with, not the dead or opened CID etc.
I have one video that I shared a little about this on a 40V Kobalt pack I was looking into for a friend. This pack is a great example of not knowing what you are jumping. Thanks again for sharing!
th-cam.com/video/1ucbqglhyBk/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Its nice to see someone who knows what he's doing make a proper video.
But where's his camera attached 🤔 he's a cyborg I belive
Thanks for the great guide work. Did exactly what you showed and I have two more extra P107 and they are back from the dead. Thx brother. Keep making those vids man. I subscribed, no need to ask 🙂
You did a great video! Thanks for doing it, look forward to seeing more!
Genuine Ryobi batteries are just way too expensive to replace, so I'm glad I found your video which was easy to follow. It helped me ressurect an old Ryobi battery pack and saved me having to (cringe at the thought) order one of those cheap Chinese alternatives from Amazon.
Chinese ones do the same thing rather waste 30 not 80
i found a repair for a ryobi "clone" battery (non genuine) that stopped working. after opening i thought i saw the problem. the nickel strip had come adrift from the last set of cells. (the negative terminal end) so i soldered it back on., but it still wouldn't power a tool. all the cells had about 4 volts on each and i had about 17 volts measured across the terminals. the volts were there but not the amps also the voltage check button didn't work. the battery plugged into a charger flashed red for a few seconds then turned solid green, but it refused to power a tool. in frustration i soldered a wire from the negative end of the battery where it connected to the pc board and soldered it directly to the connection strip, bypassing the pc bit altogether. low and behold everything worked. the check light had full bars the charger accepted it as fully charged and the tool powered up. hope this works for others
So, if that pack is made similar to the Ryobi pack then that does bypass the Mosfets on the BMS board. That will allow the cells to be pulled too low with no cut off so be careful with that. It could possibly over charge as well if something went wrong with the charger. I talked briefly about bypassing the Mosfets as a troubleshooting measure in a Ridgid 18V Hyper-lithium pack repair video. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
yeah, but instead of having a battery ready for the bin i get a battery that has a new life for now@@ThriftyToolShed
Wow......a video made by someone who actually knows what they're talking about............
Right!
a trick : watch series on Flixzone. Been using it for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Emmett Matthias yup, have been using Flixzone} for since december myself :)
I was hoping you would do an individual cell voltage test after replacing the one cell, discharging the whole battery pack and recharging it, to see how the bms handled the new cell.
Although I did do it, I edited alot out due to time. Videos sometimes start out hours long and I am trying to balance showing enough good viable information and all the long videos I have in the past have had comments about the length of the video. I am trying to get better at filling in at least mentioning that I am doing something even if I can't show it all. Very good point sir. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for creating such a helpful video! I'm having trouble with my P107 batteries that came with a P117 charger. I have had the batteries about 5 years, they have probably only had 30 charging cycles in that time. They have never been abused, always stored charged. Both batteries are only lighting one green bar on the battery pack 'fuel gauge'. When I place them on the charger, the charger recognizes them, but doesn't charger them, instead the 'battery charged; energy save' light clicks on. I opened the battery pack and checked the individual cells with a multimeter and they measured as follows: 3.61, 4.03, 4.07, 3.97 and 4.03 and that was the worst of the two batter packs. So, none of the cells are below the 2.5 threshold and their voltage differences don't seem very extreme. And visually, the individual cells are in excellent condition. I can't figure out why they won't charge. I tried to check the charger with the multimeter to see if it is working properly, but couldn't get any reading at all, I figured I must be doing something wrong. My experience and understanding of electrical components is very limited, but it strikes me as odd that these batteries won't charge. Any suggestions?
Hello PL, my problem is exactly the same as yours, even the voltages in the batteries are the same. After the load indicates that it is 100% loaded, when I shoot it only shows a pin. When I put the multimeter on the diagonal poles of the batteries it shows 19v, but when I test it on the normal battery output it only shows a maximum of 7v. Did you get any solution?
@@luanscavalcanti It pained me to do so, but I gave up on repairing the battery packs. Since there was nothing obviously wrong with the individual cells, I had to assume there was an issue with the circuit board. I couldn't justify the cost and aggravation of trying to replace the circuit boards when I wasn't very sure about I was getting into. Especially since I was able to but a two pack of off-brand batteries from Amazon for $35 that had excellent customer ratings. It really annoyed me to do it, now I have 2 ryobi batteries that don't work but the cells are fine, such a waste of materials.
Sorry to hear it did not work out. I have not had the exact issue yours have, it seems like the BMS board is the issue, the mosfets on these will cut the power to the pack if issue is picked up. Could be temp or NTC issue or cell voltage monitor feedback, but the BMS seems to think it has an issue and disconnecting using the mosfets or the mosfets are open. And yes replacement packs are cheap and I actually have adapters to use my DeWalt and M18 packs with my Ryobi tools now but I still like to repair and give new life to what I can. At least you have good spare cells!
Hi PL, I also have the same problem with my P107 battery. No problems with any of my other batteries. I'm thinking that there may be a problem with the P107 boards. Has anyone discovered how to reset the microprocessor?
What I'd like to know is How to remove the Load shut off feature the ryobi batteries have. I use them to power other things and the ryobi's cut out where my desalts have no problem ...? thanks in advance!
Thanks a lot, I have a faulty P107 I'll look into now. 17:16, get yourself a silver Sharpie for dark surfaces.
Can you please give me some info? I now have 2x 2Ah Ryobi batteries with 3 dead cells each😳. The cells in these ryobi batteries are US18650VTC4 C4 murata INR19/66. I also have a few spare batteries of the same size and colour with fewer letters on the battery wrapping which are SE US18650VTC4 C4 that I took off from a broken battery powered well known hoover manufacturer. Would it be ok to use these SE US18650VTC4 C4 to replace the dead cells in these Ryobi batteries?
Good job and thanks for sharing. Just a few comments that I hope you and your followers will find helpful going forward. The reason there is often no voltage measured at the battery pack connection point is because the output MOSFETs are biased off by the protection circuit which also prevents charging from these output terminals. This is also the cause of the no charge condition indicated by the Ryobi charger flashing red switching to green then back to red. Therefore, even after replacing a defective cell or cells, a defect in the protection circuit will keep the pack from charging and will prevent it from operating in the tool. So if the protection circuit is correctly functioning and only engaging because of low cell voltage, replacement of the defective cell will result in normal charging and operation of the battery.
This is a common failure in these packs regardless of capacity. Higher capacity packs using cells in a parallel makes cell replacement quite a bit more challenging but the cell replacement technique covered in the video is the same. The cell balancing IC along with additional external components in the Ryobi pack forms the basis of the protection circuit which controls the MOSFETS. I have been looking at protection circuit in more detail to characterize the failure point so that when this condition occurs, it can be addressed allowing the pack to be fully functional again. I will share what I find regarding this failure as time allows. If anyone has additional information on repair of the protection circuit loop, please post. Thanks again!
Yes, and you have me needing to go back and see if I edited the part out where I do mention the mosfets and the output voltage, I mentioned it but may have left it out trying to shorten the video!
It also seems the newer packs only show output when the charge indicator button is pressed and after a few seconds shuts back off. The older versions are not that way.
Great points and thanks for you comment.
Very informative video, Thanks. So I found a p107 pack at the recycle center and grabbed it and found 8 volts at the +/- terminals pushed the test button and no lights so I stuck it in the charger and it started charging and went to full charge, checked and all 4 lights were lit, but I still had 8v at the +/- terminals. I took it apart and found it had 20.6 on the corners of the circuit board so all the cells are good. I looked around the mosfet's on end and found only 8v on one side and nothing on the other side. Have you seen this and do you think one of the mosfet's is bad. I have decided from this, that the battery must not charge via the +/- which what the other terminals must be for but I'm not sure how it works. Thanks for any insights you may have
Have you tried using the pack in a tool? The 8V or so sounds normal if it is not woke up. If setting there asleep that seems normal. Most versions of the packs do wake up when you press the button, but it's possible I guess some may not. If it still doesn't work in the tool then it could be the Mosfets not turning on from BMS or Mosfets bad. Thanks for your comment.
@@ThriftyToolShed That's amazing!! It fired right up when I put it in the drill and now measures 20.6 at the +/-. I did not really get the wake up idea from the video, not because you didn't explain it properly, but because the penny didn't drop till I tried it this morning. Thanks again you're awesome! Who can argue with free power LOL
That's awesome! Great find.
Hey, you helped me out. I had a pack with a blown cut-out transistor and couldn't figure out the part (on mine it's an MXP4002, which is obsolete). I've ordered a pair of IRF1404Z and hopefully that will bring this pack back.
How did you know the transistor was blown?
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on!
DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN,
BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE.
NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES.
THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT.
************************
******************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!!
----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!!
***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE!
Be careful, I was prying up a tab on one of the batteries and it sprayed out like aerosol spray in my eyes. I washed them out under facet for 10 minutes and had no ill effects but just a warning. I should have had additional safety glasses on but I had moved my glasses down a bit to see better close up and that is when it happened. Prying up on a tab must of created a puncture on the cheap battery and it spray in my face and eyes.
Absolutely, always have eye protection when working on any battery pack for sure! That can go for electronics with electrolytic capacitors as well!
Thankyou for your video. My situation is interesting. Dismantled unit all cells look ok with total voltages reading 17.9 volts.
The voltage on the external points reads 4.7 volts. I therefore suspect circuit board fault.
When paced into charger it charges for 30 seconds then indicates full charge. Would appreciate your thoughts
So, is it not powering the tool at all? Some will not show output of the pack until a load is sensed. I showed this in a video of the Ridgid pack repair I did. Both packs are made by TTi so they are similar in some ways. It seems the problem is the BMS board to me. You may want to try the reset on the board as a long shot, also mentioned on the Ridgid video as well as the Echo pack repair that I have.
I have similar problem with p102. I received used not working charger showing faulty Boosted with another battery was able to charge and use for a period. Used with old blue sawsall and drained too low with battery allowing me to use after sat a minute but fortunately was in a hurry to finish. Now even with a boost battery charger indicated fully charged at Around 15v. Checking individual cells I have two that are 1.6. When I boost those individual cells with a 26650 with leads. The will go to around 3.5 maybe 3.8. That are both a little different. But they immediately start to fall one way faster than the other. Before I replace cells was hoping to get some insight on if that would be correct to do ? Or with this condition would it be something else or just one cell or both ? Also even after boosting with 26650 the charger still will not read. Thanks ahead and great content ..
Hopefully no one has asked this already. Are these boards made to only work with the specs of the cells they come with? I thought about replacing all the cells with some that were a higher mAh rating. Like going from 2000 mA to 3000 mA. Will that work, or will the chips on the board not allow for the change? Have you ever tried this? I figured since the cost difference was nominal and the cells are good quality Samsung, it might be worth the increase in run time to give it a shot. I haven’t done it yet, and I thought you might know if it would work. Thanks for the informative and well made video.
I have not tried it to say for 100%, but I don't see why it would not work. Best of luck to ya!
Thanks for your comment!
They should work with any capacity cells that use the exactly same chemistry.
These batteries do not use a 'coulomb counter' charge monitor as laptop batteries do. They work entirely on the cell voltage. That makes them less accurate for the charge display, but unlike a laptop it is not critical to know if you have 2 minutes or 15 minutes remaining.
For those that are interested in the details, they use a chip such as the CellWise CW1053 or similar for charge control. If there is a charge gauge with four LEDs it is likely designed around a LM339 (quad comparator), 18V zener diode, and a bunch of resistors. No microprocessor involved. There might to be a few small MOSFETs to apply power for a few seconds after the button is released, but some simply use the pushbutton.
They absolutely do use a microcontroller as many tool batteries do. DeWalt is one of the few that doesn't use a microcontroller. I have a couple of repair videos showing the reset on the microcontroller is sometimes helpful on Ryobi, ECHO, and Ridgid. I have seen it helpful at times. Not like the Laptops, but still most BMS boards have microcontrollers for sure.
Where can you buy Samsung LI-ion batteries?
Haven't had much experience with these batteries but last year I found one that the wires to the NTC ( temp sensor / thermistor) got pinched on a sharp edge , just the conductor was cut and the insulation intact so a bit tricky to see ........ easy fix compared to replacing a cell !
Appreciate the time you've taken to make this and the knowledge you offer to share. I have a 4ah ryobi battery with 2 rows of 4 18650's. The battery got some moisture in it, I was using it fully charged and then it just cut off and now the charger blinks twice like its defective and energy bars light all the way up and off and on again repeatedly. I took the cover off and every battery measures 3.24v perfectly. What could the problem be you think?
3.24 V isn't completely flat but its certainly down a bit, are you sure its not 2 rows of 5 batteries. I suspect you have the same problem I have with moisture causing the BMS board to fail. One day someone will discover exactly what component usually fails first when a board is wet and then we will be able to bring them back to life but until then I suspect a new (or good used) board is the only solution.
I very much appreciate your time THANKS
I have a Ryobi battery and it charge full 18V snap in the battery in weed eater and Dies
charge the battery its at 14.5 try this 4x and get the same results how do I drain the battery
do you have any ideals on how to fix this problem
Do you know if one replaces all cell with superior ones Made in Japan would improve the performance or if it would work at all?
I have not tried it. As long as they are similar I would think it would be fine.
@@ThriftyToolShed Even if they were all rated 3000 Mah?
I have not done so. I mentioned I'd they were similar as in similar in spec I would not think it's an issue. I would think the larger cells would be ok for the most part. The main issue I could see with larger cells is if the current is higher charging and discharging as well. A higher output cell can deliver more current even if voltage is the same. It could possible cause the board to shut off on overcurrent and potentially have the same issue with charging. Just a thought, I usually resolve mine with very similar spec cells.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for your reply and the info. I think I will try with Chinese 3000 mAH, as close to the current specs as possible just to establish if they will being all 5 batteries or cell the same. Remember the Chinese like to exaggerate numbers by listing 1500 mAH as 3000 and 3.6V as 3.7v and so on. I will let you know if it works for me.
Thank you again
Excellent video my friend. Unfortunately for me it’s beyond my skills to fix batteries lol.. I’ll buy a new one to save myself the drama. But great information👌🏾👍🏾🏆
My P107 is showing all the lights for a split second and then the last one. I took it apart and each cell has a minimum of 3.5 volts. The overall for the pack is 18.9 but the tabs at the top only show 6.8 volts. Nothing on the board seems to be corroded or de-soldered. Any thoughts?
Thanks
What does the battery do when put into a tool or charger?
@@ThriftyToolShed It seems to charge for a bit and then goes into a slow blinking green light (full charge). Press the button and it shows 2 bars and is 6.9 v at the top. I've got three batteries all doing the same thing. Thanks
@@ffaubert1 I have not had one do that so not sure. Do you by chance have another charger to try? My chargers stays solid green when charged. Also I have seen batteries get a bad connection at the end tabs and it will act like that. It is very unlikely all three have that though! Also when you check your battery, it is hard to do both at same time but hold the meter on top terminals while pressing the fuel gauge button and see if you get your full voltage.
@@ThriftyToolShed Actually, I tried it on another charger with the same result. I tried the multimeter on both top tabs andnpressed the button and the voltage went up to 22 v.
@@ffaubert1, So how does it perform in a tool? Fan, drill etc....
I have a ryobi pbp005 18v lithium battery that shows 20v at the two "lugs" on the board but there's no voltage at the contacts on the tower. Is it a bad connection through one of the traces on the bottom of the board maybe?
I have a p108 4ah ryobi battery that measures 18 to 20 volts but will not power the drill or any ryobi tools.
It ran tools with jumpers directly to the batteries. Im thinking the problem is in the control board. Have you run across this situation? The voltage at the top contacts is around 17 volts and all leds light with the battery test button. I left it on the charger for several days before this occured.
It is odd that it reads 17 volts at contacts and will not power tool. It must be dropping off under load? The Mosfets may not really be on. I have seen some of the later version Ryobi packs have a small electrolytic capacitor on board and it charges up and shows the voltage but drops right off. Without a schematic it is hard to narrow down the issue. I have had a little bit of luck if the board has a the ISP header with the reset. I have reset like I did in the repair video of the Echo 58V pack. Both made by TTI by the way. If that board has the header it is worth a shot to do a microprocessor reset. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks I appreciate your insites. I will check out your video you mentioned as I don't know what a header is or what the reset would look like.
@@potaylo
It is usually just a unpopulated header spot, so like a row of solder plated thru holes in line on the board. I think the manufacturer uses them to Program/test at factory with like "bed of nails" type contact points etc. Some times they are marked with screen printing. Sometimes they do not. If so it will be marking such as VCC, VDD, RST, GND, etc. Not all boards with microprocessors have them, alot do. Hopefully you will see it toward the end of the ECHO 58V video and it will make sense. I believe that is the only Reset on video I have that actually worked. I have had other success on Ryobi 40V packs but it is the exception rather than the rule!
@@ThriftyToolShed I found the header and tried the reset but no luck
I then put on my thick glasses and found evidence of over heating
I bought another P108 to use the board. It is identical except 2 wires connecting the board to the battery clusters are jumped on one pack but not on my original. So not sure if I should keep them jumped.
Thinking I will at this point as that's how it was wired from the factory.
I’m impressed with the way you present the problems and how to fix them. I have a P107 that is not working properly, I press the button to see how much charge it has and it shows one light. I checked the volts at the top of the battery and it shows 4.76 volts. So I took it apart to check for any bad cells and all of them are showing 4.1 or higher, and when I check the voltage from all of them , from the positive and negative side of all the batteries it’s putting out 17-18 volts, but when I check the post for voltage, it gives me 4.75. And I can charge it till the battery is done and it doesn’t take a charger. Can you please help me with this problem, I think it’s somewhere in the circuit board and I’m not that very good at working on them.
Thanks for your kind comment.
So, what does it do once inserted into a tool and used? The Mosfets are not ON unless it is in use and the top terminals will read a low voltage reading as you described when not active or should I say while the Mosfets are not turned on. Since you have verified all cells are charged and balanced, If this pack does not work while in tool it is an issue with BMS not allowing the output! Rarely it is the Mosfets themselves and also rarely some models can start working again after doing a microcontroller reset. I have mentioned the reset on a couple pack videos such as the Ridgid 18V pack and the ECHO 58V pack video. Again, it's rare but it is worth a shot if your model has the header with reset easily accessible. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
Where do I find the reset button if it has one ?
@@MrScott12367 The reset is not an actual button, but a lot of packs have a header (or atleast a row of plated through holes that a header might would be). In that row of several header or test points if you will, you will sometimes see an abbreviation for reset. I have several videos that I mention the reset in including a Ridgid pack repair and the EGO 58V pack repair. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
my battery fully charges but when I switch my power tool on it starts for about 1 or 2 seconds then stops .. I've used both my new orbital polisher and hand vacuum cleaner .... I did notice that one cell is slightly lower than the others in my 108 2ah battery... would this cause a fail safe function to step in and shut down its power output ? ...
Great video, thank you! What kind of Samsung 18650 does the battery pack use?
Hi,
Mine Had the Sanyo UR18650SA Cells. I always replace these with some from 18650 battery store since these are high in price as compared to others available with similar spec.
Does the solder stick??? If yes what type of solder & flux?
Let me know if you can't find it in the video description, it should be there. I will clean up the surface well and use RA rosin flux or Amtech 559. Then use a good Leaded 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder. Heat super quick, puddle and then quickly cool off with a damp cloth. I will say since the cheaper spot welders have become available I very rarely have to resort to soldering. Some nickel strips are still too thick, but most are fine. I will also use .15 nickel strip and spot weld with the cheap spot welder and then spot weld it to the thicker factory strip. I will only do that if I have issues welding it to the cell though. Best of luck to ya!
Great video and advice. The only thing I missed is how you soldered the battery back in. I'm used to using rosin-filled solder for wires. How is this soldering job different and what kind of iron would I need?
I have shown in several previous videos how I solder the cell back in. So to save time alot of detail of that was left out of this video to shorten it as much as possible. I also use rosin core solder and it is great. I am simply adding much more rosin flux to help with the process. Its not a absolute necessity, but for me it helps make a much faster and all around better joint. It helps with heat transfer as well as helping with any impurities.
@@ThriftyToolShed Well, I checked my batteries and they were all equally low (less than a volt) so I charged them up with a low-amp 6-volt DC power supply. When I plugged it back into the charger, the testing (red) light just keeps flashing and never goes to charge (green).
@@sswanjam1
Its good they are equal. Not good at all to be below 2.7V each or so. Most Ryobi chargers need at least 14V or so on the pack to actually start charging?
@@ThriftyToolShed Yep. I put a 20v supply on for a few minutes and got it up. Now it's charging. However, when I tried that with the second one, I accidentally reversed to polarity :-/ Now I don't think its prospects are good. At least I save one of them, thanks to you. Thank you very much.
did the reset on one you showed and it started working. but the other didn't. it had corrosion on the board, i cleaned it, with vodka, it looks clean but still wont work, i reset it and still nothing. that button inside that you push though, it made the first light flash 4 times.
That's Something I Never Had
To Do With Any Of My Ryobi
Batterys except One Of My Batterys
Has A Test Light That Don't Work.
I Took It Apart & Fixed It Once &
Now I'll Have To Fix It Again.
So Could It Be A Loose Solder
Connection Or A Bad Switch?
Will the battery go low leaving in shop exposed to cold temperatures?
It absolutely can affect them. Lithium batteries rely on chemical reactions to work, and the cold can slow those reactions from occurring. Although lithium can handle cold better than others, very low temperatures still affect their ability to store and release energy properly. Since cold conditions drain these batteries, you’ll need to charge them more often. Unfortunately, charging them in low temperatures is not as effective as doing so under normal weather conditione.
?, did same thing, found 1 cell 1.5 v out of balance, tore apart, recharged all to full, reads 19-20Vs at main post pre circuit board, but only 8.97 at drill contacts?
Leds show full when I hit the button?
I think it a bad PCM/boards
Any thoughts?
Very possible that the board is causing it. Sometimes it's the Mosfets but rarely for me and sometimes it needs the board reset which is more rare but works sometimes. Not all boards have the header pins or pads so you can jump to reset but most do. I show this in a few videos including a 58V ECHO pack repair also on the Ridgid 18V pack. I have had more luck with either bad cells to replace and also corrosion build up on the board some like in the Ridgid pack video it's hard to even tell corrosion is causing it!
ive got a a 5.5ah batter across the terminals 18,8v but on the output 1.5v any ideas how i reset it. It shows as fully charged on the charger but is simply restricted to 1.5V all the cells are 3.7v
Hello again. Have you replaced the BMS or control board on these Ryobi? It is puzzling to me that the board would allow discharge so low you have to manually charge it.
I have not replaced a BMS on these yet. Sometimes I get a hold of alot of these and I keep the cells that tested well. I have not taken the time to replace the BMS. The problem with the BMS controlling the output of the pack is that it also seems to drain the pack some even after the pack is shutdown. I have not taken the time to figure out why some packs seem to keep pulling down worse than others, but they without question, have a major issue. TTI that make the Ryobi, Ridgid and others seem to overcomplicate the boards they manufacture and even some of the newer Brushless tools as well.
What are good replacement cells for the ryobi plus 1 batteries and where can I get authentic replacement cells at a decent price? Thank you new sub
I use 18650batterystore.com for most of my cell replacement. It depends on which cells are in them. They are different in packs in different years etc. I would go with very close matches if trying to replace less than all the cells in a pack. If you are replacing all cells then you can always experiment and even go a little higher in capacity if you want to as long as they are all matched. I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that may answer more questions if you find it handy. Best of luck to ya and Thanks for the sub!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much very helpful
Hey man, awesome video. I have this exact p107 battery. Every cell is 3.9 volts. Only 1 light comes on the led on the actual battery. However the 2 main leads the ones that are on the neck of the battery ready 16 volts. 1 battery is not getting the voltage up there through the board. Help!!
So even if under a load they all still hold at around 3.9V each?
@@ThriftyToolShed yes sir. Its crazy. N when i hit the button to wake up battery so to speak its 18+ volts but it goes back down to 5v its insane. I feel i should mention they did sit dormant fully charged for over a year.
@@louiselhalim4245 I'm having the same problem. Two packs sat in the intellicharger for a while, worked for a day now won't work. Both show a split second full then down to one bar on the meter. All cells minimum 3.7v across the terminals individually but only 6.44v across the top stem terminals. Need help!
Awesome!
Hi Thrifty,
Just wanted to know if you do battery conversions like from ni-cd to li-ion and if so I just would like to know the proper way to do it that I can use my other li-ion charger on the converted batteries, cause I have two old ryobi ni-cd batteries that don't hold any charge anymore so I bought two new li-ion batteries with charger and was thinking to convert the old ones to li-ion and be able to use the charger from the new ones I know the li-ion batteries have BMS board in them from videos I've seen, that being said what would be the best way and best material to do it with...
Thank you..
Hi,
I have not done that exactly. I have rebuilt old 18v Ni-cd and added BMS. I also use my M18 or DeWalt packs with the Ryobi adapter. So since I have those batteries in good shape, I decided to go that route.
th-cam.com/video/wEnHPzQvbzk/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/5NqbYkMsOYk/w-d-xo.html
Is your homemade flux Kalafonia rosin mixed with Isopropyl alcohol?
I use the MG chemicals RA flux. I like to buy the bulk 1000ml size it's so much cheaper and it lasts for years. I also really like the Amtech 559 flux for SMD board rework.
Amtech 559 Flux
amzn.to/3RmBqaA
MG RA Flux
amzn.to/3BFkYNV
I have a 5ah pack that has stopped charging. This has a dozen cells (6 pairs). Reading across the individual pairs of cells, each one shows 3.1 volts and reading from one end of the battery pack to the other shows 19 volts, yet I'm only seeing 10v on the output connectors. I presume that the BMS has gone bad.
Now I also have a 2ah pack that is behaving perfectly. I'm wondering if I could take the BMS board from my 2ah pack and put it in the larger one. I find the extra life I usually get from the bigger cell pack really useful. So the question is really, Is there any difference in the BMS for a bigger battery pack?
At 3.1V it should take a charge. It's almost like it thinks at least one of the cell banks is less than 3V? Have you tried charging the cells or the whole pack some with a bench power supply set at 1 to 2A max CC. And either max of 4V across one bank at a time or 20V max across the complete pack? That may help it take charge? As far as the BMS board goes, typically the larger/higher AH packs have higher current rating Mosfets on the board. If they are the same it might work to swap it out, it's hard to say since Ryobi has so many models and variations of these packs since they first came out!
@@ThriftyToolShed Yay I found it! It was one of the tiny wires that comes up from the battery pack to the board. It was broken at the solder joint but, since it was still in position, there was no way to see that it was broken. I only discovered it by sheer fluke. As I was testing the diodes on the board, my daughter said "What's that button for?" and as she pressed it the little charge indicators lit up. Much to my surprise. As soon as I picked up the whole thing it stopped working again. Kinda confirming it's just a dodgy contact somewhere. Then just wiggling everything in sight, finally found the issue. It even had a couple of bars of charge left but the charger is also now accepting it. :)
Have a lot of craftsman batteries. Can dey fix? Non lithium
You have options if you still have good working tools you want to keep going. Although you can still repair ni-cd batteries, they are just not good tool batteries. Lithium has honestly taken cordless tools to a new level. I have a couple tools such as a black and Decker 18v pole saw that I have made an adapter for to fit newer 18v batteries. It improves the tool. Sometimes you can find adapters online like the M18 to Ryobi one I did a video on and it works well!
I’m getting around 5v at the tower, 18v at the pack, and 4v, 2.5v, and 3.5v on the other three. Is the low cell the only bad one? Or all that are below 4v? My charger shows the battery is fully charged and goes into maintain mode.
They are unbalanced for sure. You can try to balance them by charging up each individual cell bank to being 4V and all balanced to see how they perform. Most likely the capacity has been diminished on some cells and they will get unbalanced again due to discharging at different rates. Some will slowly drop in storage on their own when going bad.
Hey there ! What kind of electric screwdriver is that ??? Thanks
Hi,
This is a Hammerhead. It's a older model now. They were bought out by Chervon the makers of EGO, Flex and Skil and now they have the Skil driver similar to it and it's very reasonable. I also have a video sharing the similarities below if interested with links in the video description if needed. I also really like the new DeWalt Gyro driver that I have a newer video on as well.
th-cam.com/video/fjQx-TMbb1k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YxPPPG3DDe8JntkM
Just saw this great video. Can I send you my two P107 Ryobi batteries?
Thanks for your kind comment. I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Have a question on a 10 cell 18650 ryobi 18v battery P104.
The first 2 batteries that are stacked on top of each other and start the positive connection just on those 2 batteries then on the negative side connect to 2 more batteries. These batteries only keep discharging. I have replaced them 3 different times with fully charged batteries that will sit on my bench for over a month and hold the charge, but as soon as I install them within a day I start to see the charge drop. In about 3 to 4 weeks just those batteries are discharged. Is there something I can check to see why 3 different sets of batteries of 2 always discharge?
Thank you.
I have seen that on some of these Ryobi packs. Usually it is the BMS board causing the drain. It may be hard to locate on the board. If you give it a try I would look at the small transistors around the cells and even the ceramic caps. If you have a thermal camera you may find a warm spot when the cells are charged up and sitting and discharging. And maybe not if it's a slow drain.
THANK YOU THRIFTY!!! I APPRECIATE YOUR CHANNEL, THANKS BRO!! YOU REALLY KNOW YOUR STUFF.
Thanks so much for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed -i just found you & subscribed half way into, i like your style, very knowledgable, direct, calm no bs, all the real actual problems and how to fix them the right way as easy as possible. your channel must be really new! because you only have 1k subscribers, bro i have a feeling that this channel is gonna be growing alot in the future!!! that's awsome, i am happy for you. you get out what you put in,
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on!
DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN,
BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE.
NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES.
THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT.
****************************
**********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!!
----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!!
***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE!
THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE,
**OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on!
DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN,
BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE.
NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES.
THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT.
**************************
********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!!
----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!!
***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE!
THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE,
**OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
MR. E- you said it!
What is the power screw driver you are using in the video
That is the HammerHead. They were bought out by Chervon so now it's similar to the Skil as shown in the video below if you find it helpful.
th-cam.com/video/fjQx-TMbb1k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=iwPp6JsTc_G6XOfR
I have the older battery pack, P103, you showed at the end and you tested the voltage of each cell but you didn't test the output at the pedestal or riser post. My pack shows all good voltages but the pedestal terminals only show 7.5 volts, yet total voltage of all the cells in series shows over 19 volts. I was hoping you would show how to troubleshoot this particular scenario and how to determine the problem and resolve it. Please let me know if you have a solution that you used if you had come across this particular problem before, thanks, great video, I just did what you did to the newer pack you repaired, P190, but mine it actually would not charge, each battery had 0.20 volts and I applied jumper cables directly to the positive and negative ends of the series of batteries and then connected the jumpers to a known good battery pack using the terminals on its pedestal, and monitored the voltage as it brought the voltage up to around 12 or 14 volts, dropped it in the charger and it recognized it as good and charged the pack back up. It was at 0.20 volts on all cells, but discharged while it sat idle in a Ryobi FM radio and it was practically brand new, but ignored for months of unuse and left in the radio which has a parasitic voltage draw to keep the channel memory alive
These packs are really bad about similar issues. The Mosfets are supposed to stop the pack from depleting, but often the pack gets pulled down way to low. No 18650 cell or any lithium cell for that matter should ever be allowed to go below 2.7V or so. If the cells drop down to around 1.8 to 2.5v they usually bounce back pretty well. If below they most likely are at least reduced capacity if not damaged and will internally slowly drop off to zero on there own. I test this with discharge constant current battery tester and see if the cells are in decent shape. I also check them after charging back up and see if they over time drop off in voltage. A fresh Li-ion will hold the charge for quite some time. I have some that are still close to fully charged after 1 year on the test bin. The issue with the voltage not reaching the riser post is because of the Mosfets not turned on. The BMS board controls this. Not all packs are the same. Some cut on when the button is pressed for battery level or when load detected, some have no level gauge they only sense the load. I do have a video on the Ridgid 18V hyper lithium pack which is also made by TTI like Ryobi and it is similar. I show how I sometimes jump the reset on the board at times to help resolve some issues, but this one was corrosion on the board causing issues. I have had some Ridgids and of course Ryobi's do that as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed
thanks for the prompt reply back
I would liike to know how to turn the Mosfets back on. This battery pack does not have a battery level on it. I did try putting a load on it thinking it would do what you mentioned but that did not work either, although the newer pack I revived did something similar, it showed low voltage too on the stalk but once I put it in the drill it worked and then the meter showed 19 volts plus on the stalk contacts.
I also was wondering if say one or more of the batteries were not balanced with the other batteries would that cause the Mosfets to not switch on?
Meter readings
Total voltage of series pack 19.22 V
Stalk voltage 7.13 volts
Yes the cells unbalanced will cause that for sure. That's one of the first things to check is that all cells are atleast 2.7v and above and are all balanced. Then the bms board typical fix is the board cleaning or reset like in the Ridgid video I have. The rare failure for me is the Mosfets themselves. I show done of that on the Ridgid pack as well.
@@ThriftyToolShed I forgot to mention also that when I put it in the Ryobi charger goes to the self test and then it goes to the green glow that's indicates it's fully charged
Are all the boards the same, i have a knock off 5ah with a dead board and good batteries and a 1.5 with bad batteries
No, most of these boards are different. It may be possible to make one work in place of the other. It would most likely take a little bit of wiring change, but it's plausible at least. Some generic boards will work on many versions. Best of luck to ya!
The 1.5ah is an original, Its probably safer just to change cells on the 1.5, thanks for your reply
What do you do if the battery pack has no charge at all. How do I bring it back to life to check the cells ?
Usually if the cell has reached Zero they are done. You can sometimes get lucky and get some capacity back from some by slowly charging with a CC and CV power supply. I sometimes use a cell capacity tester as well when testing cells. I shared some of this information in a video I posted more recently called "Lithium Battery FAQ #1"
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
I'm Having An Issue With One
Of My Ryobi Batterys As Well
The Led Indicater Wont Light Up
But When I Put It On The Charger
It Lights Up.
I have a pack with 3 cells reading zero. Is it worth trying to revive it? I was planning on popping them out and trying to charge them in an 18650 charger. From my knowledge the battery died from never being used, not sure if that makes a difference.
Well, it is usually a loss in capacity even if the cells do revive. If the pack is dead and the cells physically look in good condition I would try to bump then up a little and see if they are ok. As long as you watch them and have a CV and CC supply I would hook to one at a time and try it set ps at around 2.0v and 500ma and make sure they don't heat up like they are shorted, then if ok take them up to around 4V at 1Amp charge rate. If no current flows even if 4v is applied then they could be opened up (CID activated). It could get the pack back operational even if at a lower capacity. once again I am cautious about cells that have reached zero, do not leave them charging or boost them unattended!
Best of luck to ya!
Thanks for the tutorial. Very helpful... Liked and Subbed!
had exactly the same issue- thanks for the help!
Nice video! I think the circuit board or MOSFETs just went out in my old Ryobi P103 battery after I accidentally left it on the charger for about two weeks, and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot it further. Each cell is between 4.13 - 4.15V and total pack voltage is around 20.7 volts, but the external (pillar) terminal voltage is around 12V and won't run anything. If I put it back on the charger, the "defective" light blinks. If I put a load on the battery terminals (bypassing the circuit board) and draw the pack down to about 16V (3.2V per cell) and keep all the cells balanced (within 0.1V of each other), then the circuit board turns on again, and I get about 15.4V at the external (pillar) terminals. I have a Fluke 87 meter, but I'm not sure how to properly test the MOSFETs or the big diode, and I don't want to spend time and money ordering and replacing parts that might not be bad. Is it time to chuck it in the recycling bin? (My wife says I should have chucked it about two weeks ago, and she wants her kitchen counter back!)
You cannot repair it. Just buy a new PCB. Or use the cells to rebuild another high-current tool pack. Or donate them to somebody who knows how to do those things. The batteries can be worth up to $10 per cell (new), so don't just throw them away (or recycle).
@@johncoops6897 Thanks, any idea where I could buy a new board? The other battery pack went bad about a week after this one did, so now I have two packs with good batteries and failed boards. It's as if there is a timing circuit that kills the board after a certain number of years.
This is just one from eBay, I have not tried one myself or anything to say for sure. Even though not a bad price I was hoping the price would come down some and I would try one just out of curiosity?
www.ebay.com/itm/184287694635
@@johndollison - I wish I had read your comment 2 years ago.... The board has reset pin that you can use to flash the BMS circuitry back to factory fresh. Just find the "RST" point on the board and short it to ground with a piece of wire for a couple seconds.
I am wanting to convert my Cordless tools to corded tools. what do you think would work best to wire in a dc power supply that provides the full V and A the battery would output if it were new and fully charged or get a power supply that matches the output of each battery when full and wire them in individually? or am I crazy and shouldn't try either method lol
great job. can you show how to trouble shoot and rebuild a Ego 56 volt battery soon. thanks.
I have several videos on the Ego 56V battery repair. Successful BMS repair on one and it was on a link at the end of this video! Thanks for your comment! th-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/w-d-xo.html
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on!
DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN,
BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE.
NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES.
THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT.
**************************
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----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!!
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THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE,
**OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
Thank You Sir 👍
Hello TTS, I have a 5yr old 2.5 Ah pack that got wet and I suspect I now have a dead BMS board. All 5 cells read 3.9V but the tool terminals are only on 17.15V. Charger says faulty, no leds unless I jump RST and GND when all 4 flash 20 times. The curious thing is that the 2 MOSFETS both have the centre terminal unconnected, do they connect via their heatsink. Power switching would be dam difficult with only 2 leads connected!!
Yes, the Mosfets do connect through the tab.
Did you manage to fix the BMS?
I have the same thing.
Is it salvageable?
Have you tried to upgrade standard batteries to HP, it is possible? They seem to have same or similar cells.
I have not. I have to admit I have gotten away from Ryobi mostly. I don't even have an HP tool. The battery packs are over priced and over complicated for little reason and the 40V platform is worse than the 18V. I do repair a few Ryobi packs from time to time to keep the tools I do still have functional, but I also have an adapter to use my M18 and DeWalt packs with also. It doesn't have low voltage cut off of course, but I just use them if needed and I am careful to listen for the tool slowing or getting weaker and remove the pack to recharge.
My ryobi 18v battery even after replacing new cells not working, still giving 8v output , whats the matter?
Sounds like the BMS board has the MOSFETs cut off. Have you tried charging it or tested it in a tool to see if it wakes up?
@@ThriftyToolShed yes i have checked the mosfits, cutt them off and tried them on multi meter they are working ok, oone of the mosfit is showing 20v while the right one is showing 8v connected in bms, i have noticed an smd transistor K72 it is giving 8v output to mosfits and behind this diode is getting 20v but giving an output of 8v, is it the culprit?
Well I can't remember for sure, but if even 8v is going to the gate of the Mosfet it should be turned on?
@@ThriftyToolShed mosfit is ok , i have cutt off both mosfits and measured them they both were showing same results on volt meter out side circut but inside circuit it only gives 8v
Have you by chance tried a microcontroller reset on this board? I did discuss this on a couple videos and it's got me out of a issue on some boards in the past. Less than 10% of the time it fixes an issue. I know the 58V Echo pack video has this mentioned on it. Basically same thing, header may be different on some boards though.
I have a P107 and when I test it at the top I have 7.7 V and when I take the pack out of the case I get 20 V for the whole pack and then when I test each individual none are lower than 3.7 and summer 4.0 I don’t know what to do next can you help.
Well first off how does it do inserted into a tool because that is normal until the pack wakes up and full output to the tool is applied through the Mosfets.
Well I inserted it in the tool and it seems to be running fine and now I took the battery out of the tool and the top is registering at 20 V but I’m still only getting two indicator lights I would have to use a tool to find out how long it would last
Also I have about 10 batteries in a bucket that I did not wanna throw away and since I’ve seen your video I’m trying to work on them I looked at somebody else’s video on how to jump one but that didn’t work and I want to do it correctly I really like the way you did your video and thank you for the help
I also have a TH-cam channel where I show how to do home repairs and some things on my truck I want to go ahead and put up a video on this battery once I can get through these and be able to do them correctly I would like to give a shout out to your channel if that’s OK with you because you help me first by you making the video and I’m able to watch it and second you responded quickly and help me with the first one so I want to let everybody know about that and again thank you
Absolutely, I will check out your channel, sounds cool.
Hello. I have a P102 18v and all the cells are reading 3.48 i cannot get it to charge. Ther is some corrosion under the R34 resistor right where the negative terminal attached to the cells. Any ideas would be great. FYI I don't know what im doing or talking about i just followed how you measured voltage
Hi,
Corrosion can be an issue for sure. I have a video on a Ridgid 18V HyperLithium pack and it was an corrosion issue on that. I use plastic safe contact cleaner to clean the circuit board and it helped that one. You have to be careful cleaning the board since it's in circuit and voltage applied. Since we are not completely removing the board it has to be non conductive and also plastic safe as well. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the help. Right after I wrote the question, I threw it on the charger, and it's was charging. I came back down an hour later, and the light was red. Again, the battery was 16.45 volts from the terminal. Every was over 3.5 volts. I only use it for a soldering iron ibmightbjust buy a new one
Probably won't get a reply since the video is 4yrs old but hey worth a shot I'm trying to fix a 4 ah Ryobi battery that won't charge and when you press the battery indicator all 4 LEDs flash , already checked the voltage on each cell pack en it's about 3.6 Volts and when I check the overall voltage of the packs I get around 18.2-18.4 volts which should be enough but when I test the actual post the goes into the tools I get 0.2 -0.3 volts . Any ideas on what it could be ?
Hi Alan,
You have checked well to know that the cells are all showing around 3.6V and overall pack voltage is good. This pack seems to have an error on the BMS and not allowing the Mosfets to turn on power to the pack output post. If all cells test good as you have already verified I would try to do a reset on the BMS board. It is the last hope for one of these typically with this type of issue. Some boards have a small row of plated through holes on the board for a programming header or something similar and (if the board has this) you may be able to jump pins reset and ground and reset the microcontroller on the board. These pins are abbreviated a lot of times such as RST and GND (VSS). By jumping these pins for a few seconds you can sometimes get lucky. I show this on a Ridgid 18v pack and an Echo 58V battery pack repair in past videos if it helps. There are all a bit different even though all these are made by TTI. If your board does not have this header it may have a spot on the board marked as J1 and sometimes jumping those pins while holding down the fuel gauge button may reset the microcontroller. Best of luck to ya!
i could listen to you all day long! You frpm Arkansas hahaha. God Bless
Haha! I am from Augusta, Georgia!
Thanks for your kind comment.
God Bless!
I have a ryobi battery that shows its fully charged on the battery charger but is actually flat, what could be the issue and how do l fix this?
Sounds like a board issue. The mosfets are not allowing output to the output terminal is the most common cause. Sometimes these wake up after being put into the tool when working properly. When you have a board issue it will not. If you have checked that all cells are balanced well then all points to the board.
Where can you find replacement cells? Thank you.
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells.
HI, do you have any ideas on a battery like this that when you press the button you get 4 green flashing lights, voltage of packs is up around 20 volts when you measure the batteries directly, but barely a few millivolts at the actual output of the battery where it contacts the tool. Put it in the charger you get rapid red flashing for a few seconds and then a slower red flash... Tried the jumper wire reset on the two TP points, but no joy...
I have seen it mentioned to hold down the battery gauge button while reset. I have not noticed a difference myself though. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure the NTC thermistor is ok.reddit.com/r/ryobi/s/GZjOCl2a1I
How sells BMS's or how do you wire an after MBS?
I have not used many of these myself to say for sure. I have a video on a Makita 18V that I bought a similar board and used. This is an example Ryobi board. Again, I have not used it. For example only. It also has the wiring information shown.
amzn.to/3sAqaRu
Where do you get the replacement batteries and any part number? Great video.
The part number for the batteries is listed on the batteries themselves you can see it I think they're 18650s
What does the center terminal do??
where do you buy new cells if I choose to go that route ? I have the P103
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batterystore.com in the past.
Have you ever come across a pack where every cell has greater that 4v but there is a major drop in voltage at the positive and negative terminal? Like it reads 8 or 9 volts.
Yes, Ryobi has many generations of packs and far as I know all the Li-ion pack styles have Mosfets in the pack that will cut power and it is common to read about 8v or so. The newer packs with the charge level indicator will cut that power on while button is pressed and you should see the full 20V at the output. Some of the older type I believe you have to "wake it up" by either putting the pack in the charger or a tool, if I remember correctly!
Are these ryobi batts just trash? I had ridgid before and never once had an issue.
Well, I have had more issues with Ryobi packs than any other brand myself. I have been using battery adapters for years now just about totally abandoning the Ryobi packs. Basically, it's the same price as a Miwaukee or DeWalt pack, and it makes no sense to me. The main issue with battery adapters is of course making sure we don't pull the voltage too low on the pack while in use. I can hear the different in performance on most tools to know when to pull the pack, but harder to tell on some tools. We simply don't have the low voltage protection on the Ryobi since its built into the pack, but the other packs hold up so much better.
Can I buy new battery cells separately?
I typically use 18650batterystore.com for cells. Sometimes they have really good deals in the SALE tab. I will sometimes buy all new cells for a pack if I can find a great deal. Other wise I usually use from my capacity tested supply on hand as long as the cells specs are almost identical.
My P107 battery pack - all of the batteries are like 0.2 volts. Tried applying 3.5vdc across each but they do not hold charge and don't show and current while charging. I think its unusual all 5 batteries won't charge at all. Any ideas?
If voltage is close to zero are the shorted cells or open? If you ohm them and they are shorted they are done if open it could be the CID activated and the top has "popped up" and opens cell. Either way the cells sound like they are done!
I popped the fuse thingy on one of the cells, or the cell itself. I was trying to raise the voltage to 12 volt so I could put it on the charger, by using a battery charger on the poles
what do I do? do I change the cell or the fuse thing
I don't understand exactly what it is you have done. If you think that the cell is bad or either the CID for the cell has activated either way at a minimum the cell will need replacing. I shared a little bit of info on CID in a video a year or two ago on a 12V Hitachi battery. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed 🙏
Where can you buy Batterys like that Thanks
If you are looking for cells. I usually keep many spares that I test well. I also order some from time to time at 18650batterystore.com. I explained this in a video if it helps.
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks👍
In the case of it being the board what is you experience with that. I have seen places on the net selling this boards at a reasonable price and bought in bulk even cheaper. Any chance you will be doing any videos on the rigid batteries? Would really like to know how to fix those when there is water damage from the guys leaving them in the rain I’ve seen those boards on the web as well but they seem to be a little more anti DIY than the rest.
I have used the replacement board for a Makita and have a video on that. It worked out pretty well for the money. I have not tried one on these or the Ridgid. I only have a couple of Ridgid packs and no issues yet, so no experience with that yet. On some Ryobi boards, I have had some luck at times doing a reset on the board. If no water damage or visible damage that is. I show this in a video I have repairing a ECHO 58V battery. I simply short between the reset(rst) pin and the ground (VDD) pin breifly and it resets the microprocessor. Some packs have these headers and some do not. Sometimes you get lucky and the reset gets it going.
Ryobi are sensitive to the slightest amount of moisture compared to Dewalt or Milwaukee
My new 6AH just "died" pressing the button and no light.
I have 3 ryobi like this.
I took the top off but don't know how to take out the rest from the case.
Is there a fuse or anything in these?
Thnx
I have a video about Ridgid packs as well. They are also made by TTI and apparently have alot of corrosion issues aslo. I do not have a 6ah Ryobi to say for sure, but most of these packs have either a large PCB trace as a fuse or the metal nickel strips are necked down to size for fused over current protection.
Great video Sir. I was able to repair one of my batteries. I have another with a different issue and was wondering if you might be able to help me. I have a Ryobi P108, 4Ah pack that had moisture on the inside. I see no signs of damage or corrosion. The cells all read 3.6 and it reads 18.1 at the tool connection terminals. It did show some LED bars earlier when I was about to use it. Once I turned the tool on, it cut off and would not charge. Now the LEDs do not light up at all. I have jumped the RST to GND with no response.
Also, most of the time it just blinks red on the charger, but every once in a while I will get it to blink green 4-5 times then goes back to red.
Got any ideas?
Hi, great job on the first repair mentioned! I can only say at this point it could possibly be corrosion causing issues either on the microcontroller itself or a circuit feeding it. At this point only cleaning the board for possible corrosion as in the Ridgid Hyper lithium pack repair video I have may help? I always use a good quality plastic safe and non-conductive contact cleaning on these boards. Best of luck to ya!
Where are u located can u fix mine even if they are older like black yellow ones
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
If you left a battery in a tool for like a month, like I did. And then discovered that the battery would no longer charge. I found a fix, stick the battery into a drill or another tool. If you still have a charge on the battery run the tool for about one minute and then remove the battery. It should charge at this point - not sure why this happens with Ryobi but it's happened to me twice now and this fix worked both times.
Interesting, almost always when one of my Ryobi packs would not charge, it also has zero output to the tools. I have seen the Mosfets not allow any or show any output with my meter and then putting them in a tool would then work and then the fuel gauge would show. That was just certain models and they would still charge though. What model Ryobi packs are you seeing this action?
I’m a new subscriber and love your content. Great meticulous explanations.
I’m attempting to repair two P107 batteries. One has 1 bad cell and the other seems to be a bad mosfet, from what I can tell following your guidance. My question is, where do you buy the new cells and mosfets? I’ve been searching online and can’t seem to find them. My cells are LGDAHB21865 and the mosfet is IRF1404Z (2 long legs on each side and a short one in the middle). Excuse my lack of technical knowledge. I assume the mosfet is removed and soldered on the same as anything else. Thanks!
Something like this as an example.
www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-IRF1404Z-F1404Z-TO-220-Transistor-N-MOSFET-/401519608384?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Or from Amazon this may work?
amzn.to/34b3niC
As far as the cells go. You can't always find exact replacements even though that is best. I would compare specs with similar cells from 18650batterystore.com etc. And find closest match. I also use Soares from other donor packs I collect over the years and the cells tested good!
Excellent! Thanks again for all the great information.
In case that ebay / amazon link dies in the future, this is the part name: 5PCS IRF1404Z F1404Z TO-220 Transistor N-MOSFET
Just a constructive criticism: the charge current for the LG is 750mA (constant) and the Samsung is 0.91A or 910mA (constant). You compared the cutoff current of the LG with the constant current charge of the Samsung. Not a big thing but important when trying to get similar spec batteries.
Thanks for your comment. I thought I mentioned that in the video as well, but I must have cut it out when editing saving video time. Yes, I always compare specs and get as close as I have on hand. I rarely buy cells just for repair. I usually have donor packs with spare same spec cells also. But this one was different, but enough to get a useful pack again for free. I usually look at capacity and discharge rates closely and if I had a better setup I would even enjoy testing all cells and getting the best tested cells matched up in a repair. That's dreaming though, especially if it's a 10 year old battery....
@@ThriftyToolShed I forgot to mention, great video.
I got the same problem. I replaced the whole batteries with new ones (fully charged and kept for more than a month). The battery worked for some time then went bad again!
There must be a current leakage in the battery board!!!
I have absolutely had some that do the same thing. I believe that is why the lower capacity packs seem to have way more issues in Ryobi than the Large capacity packs. Many of them develope this issue. The worst by far though in my opinion is the 40V Ryobi packs.
@@ThriftyToolShed
Yes, 38v batteries are the worse.
Wonder if that is the same kind of problem with my Milwaukee lithium batteries that will not hold a charge. I can charge them to full charge indicator light says full charge. Without using them they will be dead in 2 weeks.
Most likely. Even though they have some big differences on design, both are made by TTI as well.
WHERE DO YOU FIND NEW CELLS
Also shared in the video...
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
Good info. Proper way. Worked great.
lol ya i see now it says " published on apr 6, 2019" i knew it had to be a new channel, because channels with quality content like this have alot more than 1k subscribers! right on!
DIY CHANNELS LIKE THIS ARE A GREAT WAY TO PUT POWER BACK INTO THE MAN,
BY BRINGING US THE INFORMATION ON HOW THE BATTERY'S ARE BUILT, HOW THEY WORK, AND CAN BE REPAIRED AT OUR HOME WE ARE TAKING BACK SOME OF OUR OWN PERSONAL INDEPENDENCE & FREEDOM THAT HAS BEEN TAKEN SLOWLY FROM US, LITTLE BIT BY LITTLE BIT, MORE & MORE.
NOW THAT WE THE TRADESMEN HAVE THE SAME KNOWLEDGE THAT THE MANUFACTURERS OF THESE BATTERY'S (1 EXAMPLE OF A FORIEGN MADE PRODUCT THAT WE ARE SOMEWHAT "DEPENDENT" ON) HAVE SO NOW WENT MY $100 BATTERY DIES 1 YEAR AFTER I BOUGHT IT NEW I CAN SIMPLY RESEARCH HOW THE REPAIR IT/ETC. & MANY OWNERS OF THESE TOOLS ARE OFTEN NOW CAPABLE OF REPAIRING IT THEMSELVES.
THIS WILL ALSO CAUSE ALL OF THE MAJOR MANUFACTUERS OF THESE TOOLS & BATTERY'S TO NOW HAVE TO "UP THERE GAME" & KEEP IMPROVING THERE PRODUCTS IN EFFORT TO STAY RELEVANT.
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********************************------IT'S THINGS LIKE THIS THAT INSPIRE THE ENTREPRENUER'S SPIRIT!!!!
----------------THINGS LIKE THIS WILL LEAD OTHERS TO PROSPER AND BECOME HAPPIER, SOME JUST SAVE A FEW BUCKS BY REPAIRING 1 OF THERE BATTERYS WITHOUT HAVING TO BY A NEW ONE, SOME PEOPLE MIGHT GO AHEAD AND START RECORDING THE PROJECTS THEY WORK ON AT HOME AND START THER OWN DIY CHANNEL, SOMEONE MIGHT EVENTUALLY OPEN UP AN ELECTRONIC REPAIR SHOP, ETC. IN A FEW YEARS BECAUSE THIS VIDEO GOT THEM INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO WORK ON THIS EQUIPMENT, ETC.!!!!!!!!
***********LET'S ALL PLEASE SHOW ARE APPRECIATION AND SUPPORT FOR THIS AWESOME NEW CHANNEL!!! -POST POSITIVE COMMENTS!, -GIVE THUMBS UP'S!!, -ASK QUESTION'S YOU HAVE!?!?!?, -MAKE SUGGESTIONS'S, -THIS GUY IS CLEARING PUTTING IN ALOT OF TIME AND EFFORT INTO MAKING THESE VIDEO'S AND THEY REALLY DO HELP ALOT OF PEOPLE SO LET'S ALL SHOW SOME GRATITUDE PLEASE!
THAT'S ALSO RECYCLING AT IT'S FINEST! (pretty sure old battery's are really bad to throw out, **EVEN IF YOU CAN'T FIX IT YOURSELF ALWAYS DISPOSE OF HAZARDOUS WASTE PROPERLY (*THERE ARE OLD BATTERY COLLECTION BOXES AT THE FRONT DOORS OF BOTH HOME DEPOT & LOWES, ALSO YOUR LOCAL DUMP, OR EVEN YOUR LOCAL BATTERY REPAIR SHOP'S WILL ALL TAKE ANY TYPES OF BATTERY'S FOR FREE,
**OR YOU CAN BRING ANY AND ALL TYPES OF BATTERY'S TO YOUR LOCAL SCRAP YARD FOR SOME EASY $, ***EXAMPLE- A JUNK CAR BATTERY IS WORTH ABOUT $10 .
Can you replace the cells with normal rechargeable batteries?
Well 18650 is a common rechargable Li-ion battery. You will want to make sure the specs are very close, if you are replacing all of them at once then you should be fine even if a little different. Of course when I mention specs, I mean making sure capacity such as 1500mah etc is the same, the charge current rating as well as the discharge rating etc.
Thank you sir... Also a great video
How much would u charge to do my battery replaced them jw
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!