Thanks for sharing your secrets, experiences and making these videos. Planning on getting my hands on a JPT 30w sometime in the future and there really isn't enough of these sorts of videos around. Keep it up!
My boss sent me home with his new 50w fiber. He bought this with it. No idea what it did lol. We only engrave 3 parts really at 3 different heights. I just found the cleanest burn for all heights and wrote it down and adjust. I might set this up though cuz he said in my free time I can use it for whatever all be doing alot different heights. Thanks.
Definitely helps me with repeatable settings. Lucky to be given a $6,000+ tool to take home! Good luck with it and join some Facebook forums a wealth of knowledge out there if you aren’t already on there.
I’m late to the party on this video, but thank you. For some reason I could not wrap my head around how I would mount this on the laser. Thank you for a nice visual and informative explanation.
Thanks for the idea of the DRO. mine came yesterday. I got the absolute version, which retains origin, which I set at the focal height of my 175 x 175 lens. I generated an excel spreadsheet that I put in material thickness of what I am marking, and it adds that to the zero(where I set origin) and that is where you adjust your height to. I also made a setting for my 70 x 70 lens. which the focal point for that is 165.25 mm lower, so it subtracts that distance from the origin and adds material thickness.
Thanks for the video! I've already purchased a DRO, but was having trouble figuring out the best way to mount it. I never considered leaving the top floating, which was where I was running into my issue. Motivated me to get that sucker on the machine today!
Dave, a great video from one veteran to another I wish you the best on your channel! I got DRO two days ago and it should be mounted here soon. I love your work. It's not biz for me just a hobby after 37 yrs of service I have to do something. DOL!!
I put one on mine several months ago and I love it. I used the same model. I liked it so much I went back and bought one of their calipers too. It's probably nicer than the DRO. Btw, the extra USB port is for their bluetooth module so you can download measurements to your phone or computer. I bought that too but so far haven't found a use for it at all. Great video. I may go back and release the top mount on mine and see if it moves more freely. It's good now but every once in a while the readout seems a little unreliable. I am curious if it is binding up a little. We shall see.
From my 2+ years of experience with iGaging DROs, they are not very repeatable. If you move it up & down a few times then move back to zero, they can be off by 0.05 mm or more. This may not matter in your application, but just be aware these instruments cannot be completely trusted . There is a useful “relative distance “ feature on DRO that allows you to measure distance from a point at which you switched from absolute to relative coordinates. This helps in avoiding silly mistakes when you want to move from current point by specific distance but added or substrates the numbers incorrectly :-)
Thanks for the input. Without a doubt, iGaging may not be the Rolls Royce of DRO's as they go but I can say with a level of satisfaction for the work here, they are accurate enough. I probably would not put these on a CNC Milling machine ;) Great feedback though and I would say to those reading this that may be considering a DRO, this comes down to your budget and quality but get a DRO regardless of the quality you're expecting to get from it. My iGaging does very well for the video's purpose.
Great video! My laser is on order and will hopefully arrive soon. This will be one of the first mods that I do. I noticed that the link goes to a dro with 6 inches of travel. Is that enough? For some reason yours seems longer in the video but it might just be hard to tell scale in the video.
@@patriotlaserengravingllc2233 thank you very much! I actually just got an email today saying it will arrive next Tuesday. I could possibly be more excited haha
Not necessarily. It depends on your lens. The smaller the lens the closer the bigger the farther. You really need to know where your zero is for your lens and machine. You can choose to zero the DRO there at focus and just add to it based on thickness of your object or settings or do what I do. Just record where it is at zero and do math. 😆
First of all thanx for sharing your knowledge, tips & tricks. Not many out there who do... I wanted to ask, I have a 30w Raycus as well, how do you know the zero of your lens is 100? My machine wears a 175x175
Hello and thank you for watching. I will try to answer this the technical way and the non-technical way. I will say that if you want the "fastest" way to find your laser's lens prime/optimal focus point is to put a piece of material on your bed, select continuous mark and "slowly" adjust the height of the tower until the marking sounds the "loudest" and this is most likely the optimum focal length. You will need to have a reference mark on your lens from the edge of it to the base of top of what you are marking - measure that - this is your length in MM. Repeat this. If you have a Digital Read Out "DRO" this makes getting to that measurement quickly. 99% of all Fiber lasers use a single-focal-length lens for their work (f/l). The reason why Fiber lasers use F-Theta lenses is because they are engineered to be flat and provide the best marking surface where as curved lenses are restricted. Flat field scan lenses solve the problem of marking on flat surfaces. Knowing your laser's "spot size" can help calculate the distortion and can influence the focal length based on the diameter of the scan field L=fX20.. Your Lens should have come with an instruction sheet that would have given you some information like "Focal Length, Diameter, Scan Field, and Working Distance. You would be looking for the working distance. Start there and adjust for optimum "sound". I hope this helps.
@@patriotlaserengravingllc2233 I used the quick method, since the laser came with nothing but a Quality Check for the lens in Chinese.. So I guess the focal length is the one I found minus the thickness of the piece of scrap metal I used, correct?
Great video Dave, UK 🇬🇧 Veteran here. Keep up the good work. Question though, if yuh know that head zero is 100mm.......why don’t you just then zero the DRO to zero/datum at that height?
Pronto Images good points I suppose you could zero it there, for me, I use multiple lenses and frequently swap them and don’t want to zero every time but rather prefer a true vertical height and do the math instead. Different lenses have different focal points for me. 😉
Scott Ishie yes, they will. First step is to lower it all the way down and zero it. Then it’s accurate to the hundredth of a mm/inch depending on your metric/us preference.
Thanks for sharing your secrets, experiences and making these videos. Planning on getting my hands on a JPT 30w sometime in the future and there really isn't enough of these sorts of videos around. Keep it up!
My boss sent me home with his new 50w fiber. He bought this with it. No idea what it did lol. We only engrave 3 parts really at 3 different heights. I just found the cleanest burn for all heights and wrote it down and adjust. I might set this up though cuz he said in my free time I can use it for whatever all be doing alot different heights. Thanks.
Definitely helps me with repeatable settings. Lucky to be given a $6,000+ tool to take home! Good luck with it and join some Facebook forums a wealth of knowledge out there if you aren’t already on there.
I’m late to the party on this video, but thank you. For some reason I could not wrap my head around how I would mount this on the laser. Thank you for a nice visual and informative explanation.
Awesome thank you for taking the time to comment. Enjoy!
Thanks for the idea of the DRO. mine came yesterday. I got the absolute version, which retains origin, which I set at the focal height of my 175 x 175 lens. I generated an excel spreadsheet that I put in material thickness of what I am marking, and it adds that to the zero(where I set origin) and that is where you adjust your height to. I also made a setting for my 70 x 70 lens. which the focal point for that is 165.25 mm lower, so it subtracts that distance from the origin and adds material thickness.
Thanks for the video! I've already purchased a DRO, but was having trouble figuring out the best way to mount it. I never considered leaving the top floating, which was where I was running into my issue. Motivated me to get that sucker on the machine today!
Dave, a great video from one veteran to another I wish you the best on your channel! I got DRO two days ago and it should be mounted here soon. I love your work. It's not biz for me just a hobby after 37 yrs of service I have to do something. DOL!!
Ozzie Soto thanks, Ozzie. I’m working on some more vids during lockdown. Thanks for taking the time to say hi and drop a note. Best of luck to you.
This is amazing! Thanks for this video. Of course the price now is $147 but still well worth it in my opinion.
I love mine I am glad I found you and suggest this makes life simpler
That’s awesome feedback. Glad it helps. I know it changed my experience tremendously
I put one on mine several months ago and I love it. I used the same model. I liked it so much I went back and bought one of their calipers too. It's probably nicer than the DRO. Btw, the extra USB port is for their bluetooth module so you can download measurements to your phone or computer. I bought that too but so far haven't found a use for it at all.
Great video. I may go back and release the top mount on mine and see if it moves more freely. It's good now but every once in a while the readout seems a little unreliable. I am curious if it is binding up a little. We shall see.
From my 2+ years of experience with iGaging DROs, they are not very repeatable. If you move it up & down a few times then move back to zero, they can be off by 0.05 mm or more.
This may not matter in your application, but just be aware these instruments cannot be completely trusted .
There is a useful “relative distance “ feature on DRO that allows you to measure distance from a point at which you switched from absolute to relative coordinates. This helps in avoiding silly mistakes when you want to move from current point by specific distance but added or substrates the numbers incorrectly
:-)
Thanks for the input. Without a doubt, iGaging may not be the Rolls Royce of DRO's as they go but I can say with a level of satisfaction for the work here, they are accurate enough. I probably would not put these on a CNC Milling machine ;) Great feedback though and I would say to those reading this that may be considering a DRO, this comes down to your budget and quality but get a DRO regardless of the quality you're expecting to get from it. My iGaging does very well for the video's purpose.
Great video! My laser is on order and will hopefully arrive soon. This will be one of the first mods that I do. I noticed that the link goes to a dro with 6 inches of travel. Is that enough? For some reason yours seems longer in the video but it might just be hard to tell scale in the video.
No you’re going to want a longer travel 24” or so. I’ll look into the link. Best of luck. Your life will change after it arrives LOL.
@@patriotlaserengravingllc2233 thank you very much! I actually just got an email today saying it will arrive next Tuesday. I could possibly be more excited haha
Great video.. thanks..
Ok. Silly question. But with the lens not all the way down to the table, Wouldn’t it be 100mm plus the distance between table and lens?
Not necessarily. It depends on your lens. The smaller the lens the closer the bigger the farther. You really need to know where your zero is for your lens and machine. You can choose to zero the DRO there at focus and just add to it based on thickness of your object or settings or do what I do. Just record where it is at zero and do math. 😆
First of all thanx for sharing your knowledge, tips & tricks. Not many out there who do... I wanted to ask, I have a 30w Raycus as well, how do you know the zero of your lens is 100? My machine wears a 175x175
Hello and thank you for watching. I will try to answer this the technical way and the non-technical way. I will say that if you want the "fastest" way to find your laser's lens prime/optimal focus point is to put a piece of material on your bed, select continuous mark and "slowly" adjust the height of the tower until the marking sounds the "loudest" and this is most likely the optimum focal length. You will need to have a reference mark on your lens from the edge of it to the base of top of what you are marking - measure that - this is your length in MM. Repeat this. If you have a Digital Read Out "DRO" this makes getting to that measurement quickly. 99% of all Fiber lasers use a single-focal-length lens for their work (f/l). The reason why Fiber lasers use F-Theta lenses is because they are engineered to be flat and provide the best marking surface where as curved lenses are restricted. Flat field scan lenses solve the problem of marking on flat surfaces. Knowing your laser's "spot size" can help calculate the distortion and can influence the focal length based on the diameter of the scan field L=fX20.. Your Lens should have come with an instruction sheet that would have given you some information like "Focal Length, Diameter, Scan Field, and Working Distance. You would be looking for the working distance. Start there and adjust for optimum "sound". I hope this helps.
@@patriotlaserengravingllc2233 I used the quick method, since the laser came with nothing but a Quality Check for the lens in Chinese.. So I guess the focal length is the one I found minus the thickness of the piece of scrap metal I used, correct?
@@anneloesschaafsma8750 That’s correct.
Many thanks .....
Great video Dave, UK 🇬🇧 Veteran here. Keep up the good work. Question though, if yuh know that head zero is 100mm.......why don’t you just then zero the DRO to zero/datum at that height?
Pronto Images good points I suppose you could zero it there, for me, I use multiple lenses and frequently swap them and don’t want to zero every time but rather prefer a true vertical height and do the math instead. Different lenses have different focal points for me. 😉
What scan head do you have on that laser? It looks different than the standard Sino-Galvo head.
It’s the same but mine is made by Rayfine.
So do the numbers change as you move your scan head up or down
Scott Ishie yes, they will. First step is to lower it all the way down and zero it. Then it’s accurate to the hundredth of a mm/inch depending on your metric/us preference.
What travel does it have?
It depends on your model purchased. Mine is 24”
No, you'd zero your DRO at 100... Also, you could have moved the pointer on the built in scale to read accurately... there's screw holes for that.