Re the fit of the cowling with the head rest, I hadn't noticed until you mentioned it. On my model the pins locate in the holes but the part does not appear to sit fully down so there is a gap under it. I think it is sitting on the harness attachment brackets. The gap is invisible once the main cockpit cowl/windscreen are fitted.
I've been getting a little frustrated with it, tbh. And I haven't wanted to sand or modify it since it's a pre-painted piece although Pocher didn't smooth off the parts before plating.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You dont need to sand the body part, its the photoetched buckles that are simply too big. I took off a part of them with my Dremel, and now they fit perfectly under the body part, and no more gap to see. I would send you a pic of my model, but I dont know where to send it to.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You are welcome. And another tip: when you are going to fix the tires on the rims, use boiling hot water to make them supple...
I see you use a Sharpie marker for touching up chrome, which one do you use the oil base silver or metallic silver? Also how is your list of incorrect or missing parts coming?
Hi: I used the Metallic Silver; seems to work well for sprue cut-off sanded spots. I have the list, adding more as I go, so for the final build video; I plan to go through everything as a wrap-up. 🙂
Hi, I follow your videos. And I bought the model and started assembling it but I have two pieces of the C-1, I have two P1-4 fire extinguisher tops and none of the P1-2 (I fixed that.) but what bothered me is that the dash piece C-2. What do you recommend? I'm in Italy and I can't find a Pocher contact person. Last note, the instructions are worth it.! Excuse the outburst. Thank you and good luck with the videos.
Hi! Hornby is Pocher's parent - have you tried contacting their customer support in Italy? Go to the Pocher UK site, click on Support; then Contact Us and then Contact Details - Hornby Italia. I've used their UK support and they have been responsive and addressed my needs which in one case, was replacing a missing part at no charge.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Good morning, thanks for the answer, now I'll follow your advice and give it a try. Then I will let you know. Thanks again and congratulations for your videos, they help me better than their instructions. Too approximate and regarding seat belts they weren't enough to do what the instructions say. Too bad because the model is splendid.
When you assembled the gauges, 1 question came to mind, will there be a wiring harness for the gauges? when the top of the cowl went on it covered all the detail, at least you have the satisfaction of knowing you did all the parts under it... it's looking good, how much do these kits retail for where you are? too expensive in Australia, and they have released a few that I would of loved to purchase, but not at $1000.00 plus AUD.
Hi: I thought the same thing especially since the back of the gauges have a pin to accept some tubing, but no wiring is indicated in the instruction manual which could very well be an oversight given Pocher's notorious poor instructions. I thought I might add some anyway. Hornby USA sells the Lotus for $949.99 USD with free shipping. But you can get them for $750 USD - $800 USD on eBay US.
I have a second kit. But since the model is still available, it’s unlikely that with shipping costs from the Middle East my spare kit would be a cost effective option
I used the supplied thin tube on the back of the two small gauges and the thick tube for the larger tachometer. It seemed a shame not to do something to simulate the cables / wiring.
This kit (at 1/8) is very very under-detailed. It really needs the aftermarket set with DVD to bring it up to scratch. It has many errors and colour screw-upsthat need correcting.@@splashbakermodelbuilding
I don’t think I’ve looked at this part yet. Is it metal or plastic? Obviously, if it’s plastic a little heat would allow manipulation. If it’s metal, guess we are screwed!
@@rainady It's plastic, but pre-painted. I can't get it to seat in the holes because it won't fit in the roll bar properly. A little mod would probably do it, but again, the part is pre-painted. I was low on patience the other day, so I will try again. Sometimes I step away and come back again fresh if that makes sense? 😊
On mine the part has to slide into a groove on one side of the roll hoop. You then need to squeeze the sides to get the pins to drop into the holes. Apart from the slight gap at the bottom (which gets hidden later) it looks fine.
am so glad I've found your videos truly excellent and most helpful
Excellent video and really helpful thank you !
Thanks! And thanks for watching!
Sehr schön 👍👍🙂🙂🙋♂️
amazing details!
what size tap for the “A” screws? Theses are the only one I have trouble with…
Hi: The M1.5mm tap should work for "A" screws. I also use oil when tapping. Sometimes I will also oil the screw if it's being fussy. 🙂
Re the fit of the cowling with the head rest, I hadn't noticed until you mentioned it. On my model the pins locate in the holes but the part does not appear to sit fully down so there is a gap under it. I think it is sitting on the harness attachment brackets. The gap is invisible once the main cockpit cowl/windscreen are fitted.
I've been getting a little frustrated with it, tbh. And I haven't wanted to sand or modify it since it's a pre-painted piece although Pocher didn't smooth off the parts before plating.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Agree about the frustration at times, but now that it is finished I can't stop admiring how good it looks
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You dont need to sand the body part, its the photoetched buckles that are simply too big. I took off a part of them with my Dremel, and now they fit perfectly under the body part, and no more gap to see. I would send you a pic of my model, but I dont know where to send it to.
@@Sennake Oh yes, I see exactly what you mean about the buckles!
@@splashbakermodelbuilding You are welcome. And another tip: when you are going to fix the tires on the rims, use boiling hot water to make them supple...
I see you use a Sharpie marker for touching up chrome, which one do you use the oil base silver or metallic silver? Also how is your list of incorrect or missing parts coming?
Hi: I used the Metallic Silver; seems to work well for sprue cut-off sanded spots. I have the list, adding more as I go, so for the final build video; I plan to go through everything as a wrap-up. 🙂
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Thanks for the info, build looks great so far.
Hi, I follow your videos. And I bought the model and started assembling it but I have two pieces of the C-1, I have two P1-4 fire extinguisher tops and none of the P1-2 (I fixed that.) but what bothered me is that the dash piece C-2. What do you recommend? I'm in Italy and I can't find a Pocher contact person. Last note, the instructions are worth it.! Excuse the outburst. Thank you and good luck with the videos.
Hi! Hornby is Pocher's parent - have you tried contacting their customer support in Italy? Go to the Pocher UK site, click on Support; then Contact Us and then Contact Details - Hornby Italia. I've used their UK support and they have been responsive and addressed my needs which in one case, was replacing a missing part at no charge.
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Good morning, thanks for the answer, now I'll follow your advice and give it a try. Then I will let you know. Thanks again and congratulations for your videos, they help me better than their instructions. Too approximate and regarding seat belts they weren't enough to do what the instructions say. Too bad because the model is splendid.
@@andreafigino Others have told me Pocher will send extra seatbelt material if asked, worth a try!
@@splashbakermodelbuilding Grazie proverò A presto.
When you assembled the gauges, 1 question came to mind, will there be a wiring harness for the gauges? when the top of the cowl went on it covered all the detail, at least you have the satisfaction of knowing you did all the parts under it... it's looking good, how much do these kits retail for where you are? too expensive in Australia, and they have released a few that I would of loved to purchase, but not at $1000.00 plus AUD.
Hi: I thought the same thing especially since the back of the gauges have a pin to accept some tubing, but no wiring is indicated in the instruction manual which could very well be an oversight given Pocher's notorious poor instructions. I thought I might add some anyway. Hornby USA sells the Lotus for $949.99 USD with free shipping. But you can get them for $750 USD - $800 USD on eBay US.
I have a second kit. But since the model is still available, it’s unlikely that with shipping costs from the Middle East my spare kit would be a cost effective option
I used the supplied thin tube on the back of the two small gauges and the thick tube for the larger tachometer. It seemed a shame not to do something to simulate the cables / wiring.
@@grahameaves3298 Thanks Graham, was just wondering if that was the case with the gauges...
This kit (at 1/8) is very very under-detailed. It really needs the aftermarket set with DVD to bring it up to scratch. It has many errors and colour screw-upsthat need correcting.@@splashbakermodelbuilding
Not got there yet. Too much other things getting in the way.
Let us know how you resolve the issue.
I'm going to try again this week, but I think a gap might be inevitable... * sigh *
I don’t think I’ve looked at this part yet. Is it metal or plastic? Obviously, if it’s plastic a little heat would allow manipulation.
If it’s metal, guess we are screwed!
@@rainady It's plastic, but pre-painted. I can't get it to seat in the holes because it won't fit in the roll bar properly. A little mod would probably do it, but again, the part is pre-painted. I was low on patience the other day, so I will try again. Sometimes I step away and come back again fresh if that makes sense? 😊
On mine the part has to slide into a groove on one side of the roll hoop. You then need to squeeze the sides to get the pins to drop into the holes. Apart from the slight gap at the bottom (which gets hidden later) it looks fine.