If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. Did you know, you can now support World of Wayne by joining the channel membership program at bit.ly/WowMembership and get exclusive features for TH-cam. Alternatively, you could join my Patreon for $1 and still get access to member live streams and behind the scene news. My patreon channel can be found at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne . Thank you all for your continued support. I really appreciate it
Very ingenious. One note is that those led rape lights can get quite hot. Left in too long some might get hot enough to warp styrene and cause paint discoloration. Also, without proper heat management the doors will burn out more rapidly. most common home tape light strips are designed to be mounted ab aluminum channel, which acts as a heat sink and will die quickly otherwise. So ideally you want to mount the tape to a bent loop of thin aluminum held off the model plastic by 1mm spacers or double sided foam tape as an insulator. (But an air gap would be better for heat dispersion. And look for a strip with low heat characteristics, and or under power the strip. If it’s 12v use just 9v. It will be dimmer but will last longer with less heat issues. Look for lighting products designed for use on automobile interiors as they are designed to produce less heat and require less heat sinking. But they are also not usually as bright…getting them to shine through the masked plastic might be tricky. But that looks like ALOT of leds and thus heat in there and I bet much of that light is not used and just causes more leakage issues than anything else. Locating an inch or three of led tape where clusters of windows are could make that more efficient.m, getting the same amount of shine where you want it with far less diodes. But you would need to solder it up. I had a thought that it may also be possible to have the threaded rod fixed to the model such that it spins with it, putting the bearings and slip ring in the stand with the gear, mounting pulley and motor behind the vertical stand element and this hidden and acting as a counter weight or just a gear plus a motor mounted vertically to the back of the stand with a 90 degree gear. That way would have three advantages. 1) the back of the model is not altered with a huge epoxied gear. 2) the gear and pulley and gears and perhaps even power supply can be hidden in or behind the stand and act as a counter weight. 3) it will be easier to service the slip ring down the road, as they can get gunked up and oxidized with time and there are no moving parts in the model to wear out. One could also figure out how one could un screw the threaded rod from the model. (If there’s were nuts glued inside the central shaft for example), leaving enough wire lead inside it so one could just unplug a jst and have just the model. I also think one could use an aluminum threaded rod and save weight without decreasing rigidity Another option would be similar but would be to to adopt an Apple iPhone MagSafe approach for power and fixing to the stand., or indeed repurpose some inductive chargers, mounting one set of inductive coil last ( + and -) plus magnets/steel ring to the inside of model’s rear face and mounting the another set of coils plus magnets on a disc directly mounted on a motor shaft. That would eliminate the slip ring, rod. Etc. hear may be an issue and there would be power loss. You would also need some strong magnets. But there may be kits available one could appropriate. There are some very strong mag safe car mounts for iPads and phones. Of course one would not use it to charge a battery, just pass voltage. Indeed, I believe there are even fiber optic solutions with couplings that are designed to rotate, if one used side emitting fiber optics instead of led tape. or very carefully and painstakingly located each fiber end right behind a “window” panel (no drilled hooks, just right behind the masked area, and found such such a fitting it may be possible to eliminate all wiring inside the model, and use magnets to affix it to a motor wheel without any visible modification to the back of the model. That would also reduce heat inside that model.
As far as where to put the model, it would go great on a fit to size shelf up high in a room with a space scaped ceiling... Make for a cool night light in a bedroom! 🖖😊
Morning Wayne, I've just cancelled my Fanhome batmobile as I didn't check that it'll take 20 months to build 6 stages per month and 120 stages I can't wait that long it's a pitty we don't get the option to purchase full kits on more models I realise you can on some of the Agora builds dam shame. Have a good week buddy.
Gadzooks! What a beauty. The future never looked so good. My two observations are: it is too slow. if only there were something between 30 and 2 RPM. The other is that I would suggest two support rods. I am the nervous type. Something hanging that far to one side sets off my anxieties. OR-- have the single support closer to the other end of your cleverly designed box/support thing. Pretty damn cool!
Hey that's really impressive Wayne. I think it's spinning at a nice speed that's not too fast. I love your representation of the Earth and the space station looks amazing as well. A job well done.
I loved Lou's build, and LOVE Yours. Lou's solution to the turning of the station I could see would have issues in the wheel rubbing the paint work off, bit he placed it on the rear hub. Your solution was BRILLIANT (Just like GUINNESS...Smooth). I like how you have it mounted so it doesn't rub on the model and paint, yet is well supported. GOOD JOB MATE!
Model looks amazing 👏. Some good engineering regarding the rotary drive using proper bearings and a slip ring but it could have possibly been better. I would have suggested fixing the brass rod to the model and putting the bearings in the stand. This would have allowed you to attach the pulley drive to the rear of the stand thereby tidying up the "customer facing" front of the stand and keeping the rear docking port a bit tidier. It would have also allowed you to put the stand support rod between the motor and the model helping to balance the whole structure. I have to say, the base does not do the model justice. The model itself looks superb but the base looks rather gash and somewhat spoils the overall effect. Maybe something that could be redone? At least with the JST connectors it should be easy to swap. The only issue with using connectors rather than soldering is that they can oxidise over time and reduce the reliability of the contacts, but this is unlikely to affect this build.
👍All those JST Connectors, 3D Printing, Slip Ring, and Bearings required a lot of forethought and planning... But no Potentiometer to control the speed or a Switch to turn it off/on? 😯 Nice build, love how the hanger looks when lit.
I love the detail on this kit. The montage music reminded me of landing in Elite Dangerous on those rare occasions when I used a docking computer so I could get some video of the ships entering the docking bay. I prefer the way you've tackled the rotation over the rollers personally. It gives you a better impression of the station being in space. Are you not going to use the space plane at all?
@@WorldofWayneUK If you put it like it's entering the docking bay so the nose is just going through the entrance you could use a piece of clear rod attached to the front of the space plane that can be glued to the back wall of the bay. The rod would be hidden by the space plane and the docks walls so it shouldn't look invasive. I did something similar on a model of Deep Space Nine with a tiny Runabout shuttle, I made that model of Deep Space Nine for my nephew.
Excellent! Fantastic! Great Job! But (you had to know a 'but' was coming 😄) It still looks like it's moving too fast. Though compared to the movie it matches, but in reality, I think it's a bit too fast.
I was wondering how u was gonna power the lights without having the wires twisted due to the rotation of the space station, and i was thinking of doing something similar that was used in cordless kettles and model rail turntables using rings of metal on one side and sprung terminals on other side or bent pieces of metal touching the rings.
Hi Wayne, another fantastic build! Like many of us who purchased this great model, your engieneering rotation solution looks like the best method from some of the other solutions. Can you share the model numbers of the motor, slip ring and gear that you used? It would also be helpful to know the diameter of the hollow metal tube. And can you share the STL file for the motor and rod support housing. Just curios. Thank you for the great build tutorial videos for this model!
Thats brilliant Wayne. Prefer this sort of proper modelling to the partworks you do.your talents are way too good to just be tightening screws.well done.😊
If you enjoyed this video or some of my other content please consider pressing the SUBSCRIBE button and hitting the BELL next to it so you get notified when I release a new video. You will find all the links and information you want in the expanded video description. Did you know, you can now support World of Wayne by joining the channel membership program at bit.ly/WowMembership and get exclusive features for TH-cam. Alternatively, you could join my Patreon for $1 and still get access to member live streams and behind the scene news. My patreon channel can be found at www.patreon.com/worldofwayne . Thank you all for your continued support. I really appreciate it
Fantastic Wayne. Try some beauty shots outside at night looking up at it with a starry sky behind.
Very ingenious.
One note is that those led rape lights can get quite hot. Left in too long some might get hot enough to warp styrene and cause paint discoloration. Also, without proper heat management the doors will burn out more rapidly. most common home tape light strips are designed to be mounted ab aluminum channel, which acts as a heat sink and will die quickly otherwise.
So ideally you want to mount the tape to a bent loop of thin aluminum held off the model plastic by 1mm spacers or double sided foam tape as an insulator. (But an air gap would be better for heat dispersion. And look for a strip with low heat characteristics, and or under power the strip. If it’s 12v use just 9v. It will be dimmer but will last longer with less heat issues.
Look for lighting products designed for use on automobile interiors as they are designed to produce less heat and require less heat sinking. But they are also not usually as bright…getting them to shine through the masked plastic might be tricky.
But that looks like ALOT of leds and thus heat in there and I bet much of that light is not used and just causes more leakage issues than anything else.
Locating an inch or three of led tape where clusters of windows are could make that more efficient.m, getting the same amount of shine where you want it with far less diodes. But you would need to solder it up.
I had a thought that it may also be possible to have the threaded rod fixed to the model such that it spins with it, putting the bearings and slip ring in the stand with the gear, mounting pulley and motor behind the vertical stand element and this hidden and acting as a counter weight or just a gear plus a motor mounted vertically to the back of the stand with a 90 degree gear.
That way would have three advantages. 1) the back of the model is not altered with a huge epoxied gear. 2) the gear and pulley and gears and perhaps even power supply can be hidden in or behind the stand and act as a counter weight. 3) it will be easier to service the slip ring down the road, as they can get gunked up and oxidized with time and there are no moving parts in the model to wear out.
One could also figure out how one could un screw the threaded rod from the model. (If there’s were nuts glued inside the central shaft for example), leaving enough wire lead inside it so one could just unplug a jst and have just the model.
I also think one could use an aluminum threaded rod and save weight without decreasing rigidity
Another option would be similar but would be to to adopt an Apple iPhone MagSafe approach for power and fixing to the stand., or indeed repurpose some inductive chargers, mounting one set of inductive coil last ( + and -) plus magnets/steel ring to the inside of model’s rear face and mounting the another set of coils plus magnets on a disc directly mounted on a motor shaft. That would eliminate the slip ring, rod. Etc. hear may be an issue and there would be power loss. You would also need some strong magnets. But there may be kits available one could appropriate. There are some very strong mag safe car mounts for iPads and phones. Of course one would not use it to charge a battery, just pass voltage.
Indeed, I believe there are even fiber optic solutions with couplings that are designed to rotate, if one used side emitting fiber optics instead of led tape. or very carefully and painstakingly located each fiber end right behind a “window” panel (no drilled hooks, just right behind the masked area, and found such such a fitting it may be possible to eliminate all wiring inside the model, and use magnets to affix it to a motor wheel without any visible modification to the back of the model.
That would also reduce heat inside that model.
As far as where to put the model, it would go great on a fit to size shelf up high in a room with a space scaped ceiling... Make for a cool night light in a bedroom! 🖖😊
it looks brilliant bud! some of your best work yet!
Amazing engineering and build Wayne.
Morning Wayne, I've just cancelled my Fanhome batmobile as I didn't check that it'll take 20 months to build 6 stages per month and 120 stages I can't wait that long it's a pitty we don't get the option to purchase full kits on more models I realise you can on some of the Agora builds dam shame. Have a good week buddy.
Great build and definitely a must have for the collection. Love the motor speed on the second set up. Bravo.
Great build
Really nice Wayne
Gadzooks! What a beauty. The future never looked so good. My two observations are: it is too slow. if only there were something between 30 and 2 RPM. The other is that I would suggest two support rods. I am the nervous type. Something hanging that far to one side sets off my anxieties. OR-- have the single support closer to the other end of your cleverly designed box/support thing.
Pretty damn cool!
Nice job and well done!
Fantastic build and engineering there Wayne 👍
Hey that's really impressive Wayne. I think it's spinning at a nice speed that's not too fast. I love your representation of the Earth and the space station looks amazing as well. A job well done.
I loved Lou's build, and LOVE Yours. Lou's solution to the turning of the station I could see would have issues in the wheel rubbing the paint work off, bit he placed it on the rear hub. Your solution was BRILLIANT (Just like GUINNESS...Smooth). I like how you have it mounted so it doesn't rub on the model and paint, yet is well supported. GOOD JOB MATE!
Looks amazing
Simply fantastic Wayne.
That's really cool! Very nice work and some great engineering.
I will bring my Car Wheels to Balance 😅. Looks Great Wayne
The speed is spot on
Absolutely brilliant model and a testament to your skills and manchanical knowledge 😂
Excellent work Wayne. Looks really good. Love the base.
Nice. Very nice.
Looks great! I wish I had your skills!
Great job world of Wayne
Excellent work, well done, love it.
Very nice build Wayne!
Model looks amazing 👏. Some good engineering regarding the rotary drive using proper bearings and a slip ring but it could have possibly been better. I would have suggested fixing the brass rod to the model and putting the bearings in the stand. This would have allowed you to attach the pulley drive to the rear of the stand thereby tidying up the "customer facing" front of the stand and keeping the rear docking port a bit tidier. It would have also allowed you to put the stand support rod between the motor and the model helping to balance the whole structure. I have to say, the base does not do the model justice. The model itself looks superb but the base looks rather gash and somewhat spoils the overall effect. Maybe something that could be redone? At least with the JST connectors it should be easy to swap. The only issue with using connectors rather than soldering is that they can oxidise over time and reduce the reliability of the contacts, but this is unlikely to affect this build.
Bravo
👍All those JST Connectors, 3D Printing, Slip Ring, and Bearings required a lot of forethought and planning... But no Potentiometer to control the speed or a Switch to turn it off/on? 😯
Nice build, love how the hanger looks when lit.
I have it plugged into a smart plug so I just tell my Alexa to turn it on
@@WorldofWayneUK Nice! I did not think of that. Which is nuts considering I have multiple SMART Power Bars and Plugs
I love the detail on this kit.
The montage music reminded me of landing in Elite Dangerous on those rare occasions when I used a docking computer so I could get some video of the ships entering the docking bay.
I prefer the way you've tackled the rotation over the rollers personally. It gives you a better impression of the station being in space.
Are you not going to use the space plane at all?
I will be but haven't figured out that one yet
@@WorldofWayneUK If you put it like it's entering the docking bay so the nose is just going through the entrance you could use a piece of clear rod attached to the front of the space plane that can be glued to the back wall of the bay. The rod would be hidden by the space plane and the docks walls so it shouldn't look invasive. I did something similar on a model of Deep Space Nine with a tiny Runabout shuttle, I made that model of Deep Space Nine for my nephew.
Excellent! Fantastic! Great Job! But (you had to know a 'but' was coming 😄) It still looks like it's moving too fast. Though compared to the movie it matches, but in reality, I think it's a bit too fast.
I was wondering how u was gonna power the lights without having the wires twisted due to the rotation of the space station, and i was thinking of doing something similar that was used in cordless kettles and model rail turntables using rings of metal on one side and sprung terminals on other side or bent pieces of metal touching the rings.
Yer that slip ring takes care of that problem
Hi Wayne, another fantastic build! Like many of us who purchased this great model, your engieneering rotation solution looks like the best method from some of the other solutions. Can you share the model numbers of the motor, slip ring and gear that you used? It would also be helpful to know the diameter of the hollow metal tube. And can you share the STL file for the motor and rod support housing. Just curios. Thank you for the great build tutorial videos for this model!
Yep. Let me collate it all together and will add a link to the video description
@@WorldofWayneUK Hi Wayne, thanks so much! All that product information will be so incredibly helpufl and a real time-saver!
I’ve seen that car paint in The Range Wayne 😉
Absolutely bloody brilliant..🤗🇦🇺🇺🇸
lovely, lovely work. ya dun good.
Nice bud .... But the speed issue being far too fast puts me off getting one myself.
Not according to the film. It ranges from rotations of 43 seconds per revolution to a hyper speed of 25 seconds
@WorldofWayneUK OK thanks I'll keep that in mind and thanks for the reply bud ...later
Where is the shuttle ship? it could be attached to the edge of the bay opening as if it was just entering for a landing.
Yep. It's here. Just haven't thought about that yet
Awesome
that looks amazing man have seen new build Power Rangers Megazord in
Fanhome look cool Wayne 😃
Yep. It's coming
I'm curious, why did you use epoxy when the pully wheel had a grub screw slot?
The pulley wheel is not attached to the brass rod. It should be free to spin. The hole brass rod is static
Thats brilliant Wayne. Prefer this sort of proper modelling to the partworks you do.your talents are way too good to just be tightening screws.well done.😊
Cool model , but if I may .... I still think it's a bit fast 🤔
Watch the film. Some scenes it goes about 45 seconds per rotation. In one scene it's going 25 seconds. Really fast
omg this is worse than doing 4 DB5 wire wheels lol
What happened to the TMP Enterprise build sir?
Salutation’s from Belfast Northern Ireland 🇬🇧
I'm still doing it. Just took a back burner for a year lol
@@WorldofWayneUK . Hopefully you will get back to it. I really enjoyed that build.