Good video, I bench tested a starter and it seemed to work fine, put it on the car and it would spin, sometimes the bendix would jump out but still wouldn't engage the flywheel properly. I've gone ahead and ordered a new starter
I’m dealing with a slow start issue and I’ve removed the starter to test it. When it was in the vehicle and you turned the ignition to crank it would spin progressively slower as if the battery was dying. I replaced the battery with a new one and nothing has changed. With the starter out of the vehicle I did all the tests you did and it passed. I used a volt meter in various configurations and they all read 12.88. I then connected the vm to the positive terminal and to the starter’s case and watched the voltage as I triggered the starter by jumping the positive post and solenoid switch. The voltage dropped to 11.76. The gear pops out and it spins, leaving the starter connect for 15 seconds didn’t produce any obvious flaws. I cannot tell if the starter is spinning good enough to turnover an engine though but a weak turnover when all tests pass tells me it’s the starter…right? I’m at a loss!
@ivwshane If it's spinning progressively slower than I would suspect it's just a failing starter. If you have a poor connection on your main power feed or block ground then usually you'll get a no crank condition. Or maybe only half a revolution. Or maybe it'll crank good then the connection will go bad and it'll just STOP. When you have a poor electrical connection on such a high current circuit it'll usually go from "poor connection" to "no connection" right quick. So ya, I suspect it's just a bad starter. The motor windings are probably breaking down with heat. You could still check the connections. Install the starter. Pull the injector fuse or something to prevent the engine from firing. Then do a voltage drop on the power feed and ground. So one multimeter lead on the positive post of the starter and the other on the positive of the battery. Crank it for 5+ seconds and you want to see 200mV or less. 500mV or greater is DEFINITELY a problem. When it comes to checking the ground you only need to go from negative of the battery to a good clean spot on the engine block. And same thing for voltages. 200mV or less. If you've got a problem on the power feed then I pretty much only ever see that right at or near the battery terminal. If you have a problem on the ground then that's usually the main chassis to engine block connection that didn't get installed right when someone was in there. If you have a problem on the solenoid power wire then that won't cause the starter to spin slowly. It'll just shut off the starter. Good luck!
@bumblbesss It's a trick for any DC electric motor. DC motors are comprised of a bunch of electric coils that each create magnetic fields that actually move the motor. So if one of those coils burn out and the motor happens to stop on that burnt out segment then the motor will not spin. Give it a whack with a hammer and sometimes you can jostle it to a new segment that does work. Then the motor can spin. This can work for fuel pumps, blower motors, etc. You just have to be careful with starter motors because they'll be lined with strong permanent magnets that are fragile. So if you hit it too hard you can damage the starter.
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Cool. You packed lots of valuable information in this video.
It's like a comprehensive mini seminar on Starters.
@B Spin Thanks! That's what I try to do. I'm mostly by myself here and I miss being able to share things with others and pass on what I've learned!
Good video, I bench tested a starter and it seemed to work fine, put it on the car and it would spin, sometimes the bendix would jump out but still wouldn't engage the flywheel properly. I've gone ahead and ordered a new starter
I’m dealing with a slow start issue and I’ve removed the starter to test it.
When it was in the vehicle and you turned the ignition to crank it would spin progressively slower as if the battery was dying. I replaced the battery with a new one and nothing has changed.
With the starter out of the vehicle I did all the tests you did and it passed. I used a volt meter in various configurations and they all read 12.88.
I then connected the vm to the positive terminal and to the starter’s case and watched the voltage as I triggered the starter by jumping the positive post and solenoid switch. The voltage dropped to 11.76.
The gear pops out and it spins, leaving the starter connect for 15 seconds didn’t produce any obvious flaws.
I cannot tell if the starter is spinning good enough to turnover an engine though but a weak turnover when all tests pass tells me it’s the starter…right?
I’m at a loss!
@ivwshane If it's spinning progressively slower than I would suspect it's just a failing starter. If you have a poor connection on your main power feed or block ground then usually you'll get a no crank condition. Or maybe only half a revolution. Or maybe it'll crank good then the connection will go bad and it'll just STOP. When you have a poor electrical connection on such a high current circuit it'll usually go from "poor connection" to "no connection" right quick. So ya, I suspect it's just a bad starter. The motor windings are probably breaking down with heat.
You could still check the connections. Install the starter. Pull the injector fuse or something to prevent the engine from firing. Then do a voltage drop on the power feed and ground. So one multimeter lead on the positive post of the starter and the other on the positive of the battery. Crank it for 5+ seconds and you want to see 200mV or less. 500mV or greater is DEFINITELY a problem. When it comes to checking the ground you only need to go from negative of the battery to a good clean spot on the engine block. And same thing for voltages. 200mV or less.
If you've got a problem on the power feed then I pretty much only ever see that right at or near the battery terminal. If you have a problem on the ground then that's usually the main chassis to engine block connection that didn't get installed right when someone was in there. If you have a problem on the solenoid power wire then that won't cause the starter to spin slowly. It'll just shut off the starter.
Good luck!
what does hitting it with a hammer do?
@bumblbesss It's a trick for any DC electric motor. DC motors are comprised of a bunch of electric coils that each create magnetic fields that actually move the motor. So if one of those coils burn out and the motor happens to stop on that burnt out segment then the motor will not spin. Give it a whack with a hammer and sometimes you can jostle it to a new segment that does work. Then the motor can spin. This can work for fuel pumps, blower motors, etc. You just have to be careful with starter motors because they'll be lined with strong permanent magnets that are fragile. So if you hit it too hard you can damage the starter.
@@eurbanautotech i thought they would get rusty stuck and the hit loosened them up lol. thx for the detailed answer !!!