That's what I love, a nice video just when I need it. I have a few starters in boxes for the Lomax and now I have an easy way to test which ones I can throw away and if any are worth putting on. Mind you I don't have a car battery easily at hand but lots of people use bike batteries on the 2CV. Cheers!
Mirius's Shed yeah you are supposed to use a properly cycled battery with full bulk charge etc etc but I bet the starter doesn't know as long as it's gets 12/6 volts it'll spin or not spin..Cheers Dave ..
Could anyone help a brother out... I changed a starter motor and it spins real real slow.. It pops out and spins/ runs fine out the car on bench test.. So I bypassed the cables using jump leads straight to starter... And when it's fitted back in car it only makes the click where the spindle pops out but it doesn't spin when in the car. The positive lead heats up when this happens at the positive starter connection bolt. 2 months and still no further forward. 😭 Not sure why it works fine out the car on bench, but using exact same jump lead connections when fitted in car it just doesn't spin the crank. Driving me insane.
Sounds like it's dead . Even if it's new , unless of course your engine is seized or nearly seized.. A starter will spin fine out of the car but when it's got the whole engine to turn them if it's weak.or faulty it'll just click .. Have you barred the engine over by hand with a socket on the crank shaft bolt? .
@@springy-2112 I'll give this a try turning the crank with a socket. How could I tell if it's nearing seizing if the new starter does turn it but just very slow like its a low battery (battery no low of course) I've tried 2 batteries, a 3500amp jump pack, boost leads from a 2nd vehicle and it behaves the same all the way through. I used the jump leads to power it direct when in the car also, and still the same, incase it was the positive or negative battery cables that were bad. The starter was new, but factory reconditioned.. I was thinking maybe its the replacement starter that's duff. The old starter doesn't even spin outside the car just piston pops out.. When on the bench test setup but think it might have burned out as it started smoking bad when I was diagnosing. If the battery is good and the jump cables are good... The only 2 options would be I take it.. The starter is DOA, or the engine close to seizing, but it's a fairly low mile engine... Golf 1.8t mark4. Which was swapped into the car not too long ago. I take it if I'm using battery and jump leads direct to starter I don't need the ignition key set to on for the crank to spin (some kind of lock mechanism) .. If i try another brand new starter and it still doesn't spin the crank (or only slowly) with power direct to it... Only other cause could be a seized engine? It has sat for a year or so but regularly been started and ran for a bit no problem appreciate it 👍.
@@springy-2112 I found a video where it sound kinda the exact same... th-cam.com/video/87TltYsuuEc/w-d-xo.html Wondering if it could also be a bad seized alternator I have or a seized pulley? I'll remove the drive belt and see how it goes. 🤞 Also Seen a 2nd video of a mini Cooper 1.6 turbo, with the same symptoms and cause.
@@craigmorton644 Good deductions Craig. if the alternator or water pump or anything that spins is seized or near seized it'll give the same symptoms as a tight nearly seized engine .. It's s good call to remove the belt or belts and see if all the ancilaries spin freely ..then you know it's the starter if everything else spins freely .. Keep me informed buddy .. Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
That's what I love, a nice video just when I need it. I have a few starters in boxes for the Lomax and now I have an easy way to test which ones I can throw away and if any are worth putting on. Mind you I don't have a car battery easily at hand but lots of people use bike batteries on the 2CV. Cheers!
Mirius's Shed yeah you are supposed to use a properly cycled battery with full bulk charge etc etc but I bet the starter doesn't know as long as it's gets 12/6 volts it'll spin or not spin..Cheers Dave ..
Nice demo there springy.
Could anyone help a brother out... I changed a starter motor and it spins real real slow.. It pops out and spins/ runs fine out the car on bench test.. So I bypassed the cables using jump leads straight to starter... And when it's fitted back in car it only makes the click where the spindle pops out but it doesn't spin when in the car. The positive lead heats up when this happens at the positive starter connection bolt. 2 months and still no further forward. 😭 Not sure why it works fine out the car on bench, but using exact same jump lead connections when fitted in car it just doesn't spin the crank. Driving me insane.
Sounds like it's dead . Even if it's new , unless of course your engine is seized or nearly seized..
A starter will spin fine out of the car but when it's got the whole engine to turn them if it's weak.or faulty it'll just click ..
Have you barred the engine over by hand with a socket on the crank shaft bolt? .
@@springy-2112 I'll give this a try turning the crank with a socket. How could I tell if it's nearing seizing if the new starter does turn it but just very slow like its a low battery (battery no low of course) I've tried 2 batteries, a 3500amp jump pack, boost leads from a 2nd vehicle and it behaves the same all the way through. I used the jump leads to power it direct when in the car also, and still the same, incase it was the positive or negative battery cables that were bad. The starter was new, but factory reconditioned.. I was thinking maybe its the replacement starter that's duff. The old starter doesn't even spin outside the car just piston pops out.. When on the bench test setup but think it might have burned out as it started smoking bad when I was diagnosing. If the battery is good and the jump cables are good... The only 2 options would be I take it.. The starter is DOA, or the engine close to seizing, but it's a fairly low mile engine... Golf 1.8t mark4. Which was swapped into the car not too long ago. I take it if I'm using battery and jump leads direct to starter I don't need the ignition key set to on for the crank to spin (some kind of lock mechanism) .. If i try another brand new starter and it still doesn't spin the crank (or only slowly) with power direct to it... Only other cause could be a seized engine? It has sat for a year or so but regularly been started and ran for a bit no problem appreciate it 👍.
@@craigmorton644
sounds like the starter is bad as long as battery has full charge and there's oil in the engine ..
@@springy-2112 I found a video where it sound kinda the exact same... th-cam.com/video/87TltYsuuEc/w-d-xo.html
Wondering if it could also be a bad seized alternator I have or a seized pulley? I'll remove the drive belt and see how it goes. 🤞 Also Seen a 2nd video of a mini Cooper 1.6 turbo, with the same symptoms and cause.
@@craigmorton644
Good deductions Craig.
if the alternator or water pump or anything that spins is seized or near seized it'll give the same symptoms as a tight nearly seized engine .. It's s good call to remove the belt or belts and see if all the ancilaries spin freely ..then you know it's the starter if everything else spins freely ..
Keep me informed buddy ..
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
haven't been able to see video because of goggles bulzhit