Can You Use Green Wood In Timber Framing? - Part 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Can't make it to our in-person timber frame class? Take your first (FREE!) step into timber framing with our Online Mini Course - onlinecourses....
In our last video, Pat began to answer some of the most common questions that we receive about working with green wood for timber framing.
“Can I use green timbers to build my timber frame?”
“How should I store my timbers until I am ready to build?”
“What if my timbers were all stored for different amounts of time?”
This video is Part 2 of Pat following up on those questions and more, such as "what if I take years to cut my timber frame?"
We hope it helps you on your next project! Happy timber framing!
![🎤 จับฉลากร้องเพลง x P’ #XXSIVK [EP.1] (2/2) เพื่อนจับได้คำไหน..ต้องร้องคำนั้น เริ่ม! 💓🎶 #MXFRUIT](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1bJvMJXmeS4/mqdefault.jpg)
Take Your First (FREE!) Step Into Timber Framing with our Online Mini Course - tinyurl.com/u4ty9nm
We have taught thousands of ordinary people how to build their own timber frame structure, starting with raw timbers & ending with a beautiful 24' x 24' structure. Also check out our 5-day, in-person intensive Purely Post-And-Beam class - shelterinstitute.com/course_offerings
I love how Pat is able explain everything clearly and simply even to those - like me - who have no previous knowledge of timber framing or carpentry. Thank you Shelter.
I love your families approach, so many people will stress themselves into not doing something or get analysis paralysis.
It's not worth loosing sleep over wood... I loved it and I needed it... 💜
You are absolutely awesome. I will absolutely take 2 years to build something, so this puts me at ease.
If your cutting your own trees a good tip is to girdle the trees a season before you cut them down. This will let the tree dry using mother nature . Using this tip the wood is lighter to handle, they debark easier and all the foliage or needles depending on the species will have fallen off so it makes for easier clean up.
This information, from your entire channel too, is worth its weight in gold. With the direction people want to go in lifestyle today your channel should explode. Thank you guys.
Quite well spoken my friend - learned "exigencies" today!
I’d be interested to learn your opinion of Poplar timbers. I lived in Williamsburg, VA years ago and was surprised to discover the majority of their surviving historic structures are Poplar framing with White Oak sills. I was excited to learn this as the difficulty heaving around a White Oak beam as compared with a Poplar is huge. Poplar is MUCH lighter.
We have built only one timber frame out of (tulip) poplar, ironically down in Virginia! It is a beautiful wood, with moderate strength characterisitcs (which is better than the eastern white pine so prevalent up here). We found it moderately difficult to work with hand tools, so we sharpened often. It is significantly easier to cut when green if possible. We also found that it moved and checked more than pine which is expected from a deciduous; it would be worth sealing well on both the side grain and more importantly the end grain to minimize checking.
Looking forward to building a log cabin shed here in southern Maine next year, planning on a 14’ wide by 18’ deep. Most of my trees are 10” diameter, lengths are 8’ to 27’ Douglas fir. Hopefully I can get up to your place this summer. The trees all came off the front section of the lot where my house is being built,,, finally have footings!!!!
Foundation on Friday hopefully !!
Hey, how did the build go?
@@ThyCorylus haven’t really started yet, two many things in life. I did just cut a couple of small trees down in prep of a tree that started leaning last fall. There’s just lots of dead stuff to clean also. I’ve had a couple of trees snap off from ice to that I had to clean, the BS doesn’t stop in life. Lol. Thx for asking.
Best advice ever. Family and life first. Everything else can wait 👍
I appreciate your philosophical thoughts as much as your factual; perhaps more.
I have a stack of holy logs next to my mill right now! I got 30 8-16' x 10-24" logs free. Didn't strip them until I heard crunching! What a mess, but plenty of good wood in there! White pine. Hauled it all myself on a 14' single axil trailer!
Impressive
Great saying, Life is real and complicated.
I should never have watched your video on hate comments. Didn't notice how many times you cleared your throat before (and it changes from video to video). Thank you for an excellent explanation. We start repairing the barn this spring.
I love this guy! great teacher. very calming to listen to
I just needed somebody to say using green timber isn't ideal but neither is life, use what you can reasonably aquire.
A man of kindness. Thank you for a greate presentation!
Great info, Pat. Good to hear it from someone who knows what they're talking about!
God bless you sir. It’s obvious that you are very wise and kind. Thank you for the great information
We will build our house for ourselves and our cat. God bless you. Your teachings are priceless. (And screw the congressmen, the pharma industry, and the rest of the great resetters.)
ive used ratchet straps to bend warped beams the right way
What do you protect the wood with when framing with green lumber to prevent mold and rot
Absolutely love the back of the shirt!!!
You can get one here! shop.shelterinstitute.com/collections/work-clothes/products/all-of-the-men-women-and-children-tshirts
Excellent explanation.
Love your balance in explaining things, you make me laugh out loud!
fist vid i have ever seen with no dislikes. both pt 1 and pt 2
ty 4 ur great info
Thanks for watching!
After removing 150 years of remodels from my timber frame house the only two areas I found bugs and or rot was at the front door where a recent landing was built that trapped debris and an inside corner where a down spout was dumping water on an area prone to flood which didn't affect anything other than the plank sheathing and lap board siding. Both easy repair jobs. I've seen worse damage on houses just 20 years old that required tens of thousands of dollars and major structural work.
You do great work
Just watched part 2 of building with green timbers and the most important thing I heard was your comments about not worrying about how long your timbers have been sitting around, about just getting on with life and working the timbers when you can. I had 3 bypasses in January and with a pile of timbers ready to start working on in February (28x42 frame) have had to reconsider and re-priorities life in general. You hit the nail (or the peg) on the head
Please do a video on whole tember or whole tree building .
I built a red oak frame, making the beams over a winter in an unheated garage, putting it up in the spring. I put linseed oil on each beam after I made it. It worked fine. I was always told that a beam doubles in strength when it dries out so a few cracks are fine as long as you sized the loads for green wood. My experience has been that an 8 inch beam will shrink to 7-3/4" eventually. I've built three of these houses over the past few decades. I wouldn't live in anything else.
I am building in Oklahoma soon, thank you so much. I was really worried, not anymore!
Thanks for watching!
I've always thought that when it is time for me to build a house, I would want it built like this. I thought it would be impossible but you got me thinking :)
Thanks!
Thanks to you and your family, as soon as I have money I will buy your course👍🏼
Great to see Pat again! Great Video! 😀👍🏼👍🏼
what if you need to hurry?
Fascinating stuff - thanks, Pat! Especially the last story about the green oak and SIP panes. I've heard that medieval European buildings were often framed in green oak. I think I understand how the framing part could work, but were wood walls, or say, floorboards, attached to the frame, and, if so, how?
If it was a medievil castle they probably would have attached the framing into the walls (leaving a recess for beam floor or ceilings frames) and attaching the floor or ceiling boards to this frame. This started teqniques started happening in roughly 1000 BC as it made maintenance easier and saved time on the building procedure. It procedure was however only used on castle or fort type of buildings and not on housing.
@@RicksPhatPharm-vw2lb Thanks! So, I guess in housing, all the wood was green oak and shrank at the same time and the same rate? I need another lifetime to get into all of this!
I can finally sleep at night lol thank you so much Im not even close to starting my timber frame but it's a long term goal for me and I almost quit because I thought it wasn't possible but after watching this video I feel so much better about it
Very nice, thanks for the update
We live in a 4k foot log home in central Vermont. The internal framing is post and beam made of fir. It was all precut by Real Log Homes (New Hampshire) and put up by a local contractor. We love the home but there is a "cosmetic" problem. The 45' length of the second floor is supported by post and beam. Three 12x12x15' fir beams run down the center. The middle beam is twisted about 15 degrees. This creates quite a hump in the second floor and it looks odd.
The home is now 10 years old and the warranty only covers structural defects.
Any ideas aside from replacing the beam? It will be expensive tearing up the floor?
all the questions I had, answered in 2 videos!! awesome show!
Thanks, did not know much of this. What about standing dead pines, how long before they are no good to drop and mill?
I'm currently planning to make a deck with red oak, probably next year. So I'm struggling with whether to cut it down this summer & let it air dry or cut it next year just before I'm ready to start building. I have enough red oak on the property that I only cut down standing dead wood (no live trees). Seems to me that I might be better off getting the deck built (and painted) might minimize warping more than if I try to air dry under a tarp. My reasoning is that it will be restrained better as it dries. And with an outdoor deck, it's gonna get moisture during its lifetime anyway. What do you think? Thanks, Deac
Thank you
Great presentation, very much appreciated.
On the Heritage Finishes - I just cut 2 24' 11x12" SYP beams - sealed the ends with Permachink's end seal - but when would you put the Heritage on? The beams are at about 50% WC. Thanks!
The ends are the most important to seal. We wait to apply any HNF until after we cut all the joinery. We walk a planer down all visible sides to clean and brighten the timber then apply HNF end sealer to all endgrain, including inside mortices, then apply HNF original to all side grain. A timber typically only sits at our shop for 2-3 weeks before we cut the joinery; if it were to be there much longer for some reason we would seal the endgrain before cutting the joinery to avoid checking at the ends of the timber as you have done, but not the side grain.
@@ShelterInstitute thanks so much for clarifying!
Just cut 2 24' yellow pine "beams" and found your site - you mentioned "heritage oils" as what you use to seal the logs - in Georgia, the concern is mold - and the incredible amount of pine resin initially after the cut. I've searched for this heritage oils - but can you send a link where to find/buy? Much thanks - great content!
absolutely love the knowledge of this man this and awesome art
I have questions! So when buying green wood from the big box stores or local lumber yard, do you let them dry more before actually framing with them? If so, how long do you let them dry more? Or, can you frame with them right away? Also can you start framing with the green wood after sealing them with oil and wax or how long after applying the seal before you can use them? Thanks in advance
Are you talking about pressure treated “ green wood “? Or freshly sawn green wood?
Buy yourself a moisture meter!
I really appreciate these videos! Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and answering a lot of questions I had!
Could you ring trees in the fall and let them dry standing for spring harvest and mill??
Do you have an opinion, Pat, about using green wood for timber framing a week after theyve been chain sawed?
We intend to apply borax mixed with linseed oil, turpentine, and tung oil (maybe a wax as well). We will be using wood joinery to connect tge wood pieces. Circumstances have dictated that we need to move in two months time so there’s no time to air dry the wood.
do you ever treat with borate to prevent bug damage?
awesome discussion. thanks for the info
So you covered how long you can wait to use to wood. My question is how quickly can you use fresh cut pine for framing
What’s your thoughts on using sweet gum? I have a lot of gum trees on my land and was thinking about milling them
Aside from difficulty in finishing, I've heard good things. But I also want to know his opinion on this ^^^
I've cut lumber from gum trees and it cut really nice but, will twist and bow terribly. Hard to dry even with a lot of weight on top of the lumber. Beams did the same thing.
7:06: Is there any methods to ensure all the bugs are dead or do you just watch for movement?
Thanks, really informative.
the best time to cut trees down is during winter when the vegetative processes are the lowest
Thanks for sharing.....
Did I understand correctly that we can build with green timber and oil it so it doesn't warp when drying?
More great information. Thank you so much for sharing this.
Thank you for your information and sharing your experience. I have only one wish or request for further videos: please choose a cameraman who doesn’t clean his throat while filming 🙏 Thanks 😊
I purchased a saw and will soon purchase an alaskan mill. I'll be doing 20 ft logs. Thus far I've squared some by hand. (Just for the fun of it) how many 20 ft 8×8in logs could be processed a day using the alaskan mill?
As per the i c b o : lumber used in residential construction. Must be stamped and graded
Timber frame is cool but I respectfully suggest that you consult with an engineer Before building
The speaker needs to clear his throat before lecturing and needs to be aware of the difference in lumber strength
I am considering building a timber frame structure for a customer. I do not have time or ability to mill my own timber. What do you recommend for purchasing timbers? Is Douglas fir suitable? What do you do about water-proofing timbers that will be exposed to the weather?
I was thinking about getting lumber from a lumber yard to frame my basement. After framing in front of the cinder block I was going to spray foam which would fill the lumber halfway. Would that have problems?
How does one timber frame with white oak looking to add on to my house and would rather go this route vs stick built , do you have more training videos i could possibly watch or learn more about your school
Hi, thanx for the great videos. I have a question. I'm preparing to mill green 6x6 timbers. If stacked correctly and covered, is it necessary to roll on sealant and paint the ends? If so , what is the most economical product to use while still achieving the desired function of preventing checking and twisting? Thanx in advance for your advise.
Isnt the wood moisture content measured by a little device?
Question - you say to cut lumber in the summer, but it's my understanding that log cabin/timber frame lumber used to be cut exclusively in the winter; more specifically, in january, and then the logger would come back in the spring to take the logs out and start milling. Seems to be the way things are done in Scandinavia? Is there any truth in that?
Yes it has been that way all over Europe for centuries. The reasoning is that during fall and winter, trees enter a vegetative state where the sap flows to their roots to protect against freezing. Pat did mention "late summer" and that sap should be flowing out of the trunk. Perhaps it simply happens earlier at his latitude?
Very pro.. and educational
It has to be the zip panels who shrinked to make such a gap.
I have a question. White pine sitting in the summer heat will not heat and turn black/blue? I am worrying about it.
White pine will turn blue in the sapwood due to an airborn fungi that loves pine. It is not a structural concern, only an aesthetic one. We have experimented with many poducts through the years to try to prevent blue stain from forming and/or to dry to reduce the discoloration after the fact. What works best for us is to immediately stack and stick the pine outside so there is good air circulation all around each stick. Direct sunlight is quite effective at preventing blue stain, but once the timbers are in the shop, the only method we have found effective is to train a squirrel cage fan onto the stacks so there is constant air movement.
If you don't mind the look of 'denim pine', no need to worry.
Best grandad ever
I'll visite you as soon as this C-19 foulishness ends.
To camera man: can we keep just front shot of Pat? It’s natural have him looking at us, it wired he changed to side way, now, who is him talking to? He stop talking to me, he is talking to someone else, but there is no one else watching from different angel of my cell phone. You are taking him away from our attention! Other then that, great video, always enjoy his storytelling!!! Thank you!
What are you sealing with?
Yes please
This guys great. Love his jabs towards congressmen taking big pharma money. So true! Lol
Hi, great video. I have a question there has been mold that has killed many pine trees here in our area. Can I use 3 years dead tree for construction of a small house? The trees are still standing but I do not know if it is a good idea to use such a timber.
Only 9 likes is very impressive. Though I still cant see why there is that number.
So don’t use red oak, got it lol.
Confucius said "Rotten wood cannot be carved."
Can you be my dad hahaha
If you build a green oak frame house your not really a carpenter.
Wonderful content!