i have been in the building industry for over 35 years. Epoxy mixed with A LOT of sawdust is the best method. First, reason is it will generally accept stains better than traditional wood glues. Second, in time many woods change color. They will lighten (like dark walnut) or darken (like cherry). epoxy allows this transition to happen with the area filled at the same rate as the furniture piece, wood glue tends to not allow this natural process to happen then you have a flaw that sticks out a year or two later.
The CA does work when you brush dry sawdust in the joint first and then apply some drops of CA on top and let it soak in, make sure the crack is filled a bit proud so that after sanding an even surface is achieved.
Also..... What CYA glue did you use? You need to apply the THIN (like water) type so it can wick down through the sawdust to completely bond everything. Mound iit up a little then sand it level. Works great to repair guitar neck divots. Titebond 1 also works well if you mix it with the sawdust but you might have to thin it with a little water so it's like a paste.
I lived in the Middle East for many years and traded in Pakistan high end furniture. My Pakistani carpenter used to pour dry fine rosewood sawdust into cracks on rosewood furniture. Then he ran a bead of superglue on top of the sawdust filled crack. After sanding you couldn't even see the crack. You can't mix the stuff and apply it. Just fill your crack with sawdust and then run your superglue over it to saturate it.
I think i'm going to try your method with ca glue. I'm making a pistol display case and in the lid frame on the bevel near the glass there were some worm holes (should have left them alone for natural character) but I missed wood dust from the case with titebond 3 and now it looks like dark blotches in oak and very unnatural pretty much ruining a really nice case imo. wish me luck lol
Down here we use what it's roughly translated as "carpenter's glue" or "white glue", wich is a vinyl adhesive and it's been the standard for wood working for ages. It's white before it's cured but it becomes translucid when dry, so you just mix that with sawdust and it won't change the color of your sawdust much, so it tends to keep the same tone of the wood. but by having a vinyl base it's not very absorbent tho'
Thanks so much for doing this video. There are countless ones that cite there various methods suggesting they work great. Your video provides an objective assessment.
Nicely done. Through my crappy little monitor, I thought that the Titebond 3 thin kerf disappeared better into the wood. As for the thicker lines / damage I would almost think about using a thin sliver of same wood to fill in the gap. Maybe test and an addendum video and compare? Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the feedback. I think adding a thin sliver would probably work great for a really exaggerated crack. I'll keep that in mind and if/when it comes up I'll test it out.
This was really good. My dog chewed up both sides of my stairwell (stringer boards) and I need to fill them in. I don't have any sawdust but that's what I want to use. Maybe I'll see if the hardware store will let me take some of theirs. I thought the Titebond III looked best. Once you redrew the lines I had trouble seeing if you drew over the new glue or next to it or whatever. So I focused on the smaller cracks you made. Thx for the video.
I like to mix a few drops of stain into my sawdust and let it dry. Now your filler will be the same color as your finish stain. Eliminates filler spots not taking stain because of glue. I also use white glue because it drys clear.
I found this really informative. I am about to embark on the adventure of filling the cracks in OLD unfinished adirondack chairs and this presentation in the form of an experiment was so helpful. Thank you.
Excellent project. Next, do one comparons différent ratios of glue to dust, as you imply therein may lie the solution. Very valuable work. You don't even try ordinary white wood glue, but it would be nice to see just how bad it turns out. And is there no colourless glue, not necessarily for wood, that you could try? Appreciated.
I took a fine arts woodworking class with a world renowned artist. I never saw him use anything but regular white Elmer's glue. He also finished all his work with linseed oil. The more coats the better. But he would sand between coats when dry. If a piece would get scratched he would just sand out that spot and add linseed oil. Very often the simplest answers the best answer.
Try a clear Elmer's gel glue, like what you get in the school supply section. Mix it really thoroughly with the sawdust, and it should come out really clean after sanding.
That's my dad's advice. I was thinking epoxy, but my dad swears by Elmer's. I think I might still go for the expoxy tho, as it is for a laminated workbench and I think epoxy will be more resilient.
Thanks for this test. I have three small floor repairs to do in my house, one each of maple, red oak, and pine (I believe the last is Doug fir actually), all of which will entail face nailing, filling nail and old tack strip holes, etc. So I was curious about what to fill each with, and if I made my own filler, what glue(s) to use and how to best match. The maple is my foremost concern, being practically white, and consistent coloration/face/with virtually no visible grain. With your video as the instigating factor - without using any sawdust - I put a little blob of three glues I happened to have in my shop and also smeared them flat on a scrap of new pine and let dry: TB-III, Gorilla Glue, and good ol' Elmers. Of these three, TB-III (which is my go-to glue for jointing and most other uses) dries the darkest - sort of a light yellowish tan, the Gorilla Glue sort of ivory but with very slight yellow-tan color, and the Elmers virtually absolutely clear - you wouldn't know it was there unless you tilt it under a light and a slight sheen is visible (the TB-III and Gorilla also have a slight sheen - btw, all three sitting on the surface and unsanded). I will have to experiment a little with sawdust for each wood type, but I am likely to use Elmers or Gorilla on the maple, and TB-III for the red oak and Doug fir.
It depends what I have in the shop. If I had them both, I would go for the epoxy. Very nice test, by my knowlidge, you are the first one to show. Thumbs high, Willy from Belgium.
A great Idea to use here is to 1. clamp the work so the miter just touches the long point. 2. Use a pull saw and slowly cut that miter seam. 3. Repeat until your joints are tight.
Flour cement. Never tried but the old timer swears by it. I personally use equal parts water and glue and add sawdust till I get a paste then use it just like putty.
I recently tried using glue and fine dust from my sander bag. I needed to fill some knots on some English Oak. However, the substance dried black albeit the dust was a light beige colour. I’ll give it another good using the two part adhesive.
What's with using small wood sticks to mix and apply. Use a small 1" putty knife to mix the sawdust and glue component. It will mix quicker and better incorporate. Use a hard surface(metal, glass, hard plastic) to mix on. Work it together like you would mix auto body filler(Bondo) with the hardener. Apply with the putty knife and scrape off excess. Any filler that drys on the putty knife can easily scraped off with a razor blade when dry.
Interesting, as it happens I am restoring an antique Mahogany dresser probably made locally in the 1800s. Drawer sides, back and bottom are solid Australian Cedar (Toona Ciliata not a true cedar), All the finished parts are Mahogany. There were several sources & species of Mahogany during that century, but as the imported wood, it held the greatest prestige over native timbers at that time, hence the Toona Ciliata drawer internals WOW. Anyway, I have some filling to do so your comparison is timely. I found a piece of what looks like mahogany to use for repairs, same colour & grain type anyway. I tried making filler with sanding dust & Shelaqua (a water bases shellac substitute) which looked great when 1st applied but went very pale when dry. Interestingly, one Mahogany part (a cupboard shelf) had chemical stains, so I striped that to sand out stains in the timber surfaces. On applying 1 coat of Shelaqua, the surface went very pale indeed. Applied a maple stain over that 1st coat and another coat of shelaqua & it came out a good match with the existing finish. This is the 1st time I have worked with Mahogany & it's the only only timber I have seen go pale after applying Shelaqua. It doesn't happen when its applied over another finish, so I'm guessing it's a chemical reaction with the wood. I may try stripping again and doing a sanding sealer coat before finishing with shelaqua. That's a better method anyway. I may try making a filler based on sanding sealer, just to see how it goes. I noted the comment re epoxy below. I am not sure about epoxy as I have seen it yellows with age, as does spirit based PU.
I don't if you've ever tried filling the crack with glue and then quickly sanding right over. I use Titebond II. Just enough glue to fill the crack and it will not gunk up your orbital sander paper. It works for me! Give that a try and let me know what you think.
So in theory, I can fill in some fine splits (caused by years of sun exposure) in a cabinet door using one of these methods, but I don't have to worry about getting an exact match in color because I'm planning to prime and paint the door?
Janet J. Yes correct. you could of used any filler if your gunna prime/paint it. The saw dust trick is for wood not going to be painted for color matching. Depending on the cracks sizing there are a ton of diff spackles that would work brilliant, but if it’s a larger crack try to use spackle in layers (fill a bit dry repeat) but if it a very large gap automotive bondo works great for interior patches. It get rock hard and will not break almost indefinitely. And example of not a good use for bondo is say exterior where the wood will shrink & expand a lot seasonally bc the bondo will not budge.
@@Retro6502 Having the gap filled with loose sawdust and capping it with CA glue is like placing a lid on a container of sawdust. Wood glue mixed with the sawdust is a better method.
@@Assimilator702 both ways should work. If someone's using CA for something like this, they'd want to use thin CA so that it will penetrate down into the sawdust. Thick CA or gel CA wouldn't be a good as it would tend sit on top as you suggest. Thin CA should penetrate and be absorbed into the sawdust.
I've had good results with hot hide glue and sawdust - and it'll take stain and shellac finish. Also shellac and sawdust works very well. I restore musical vintage instruments.
Walnut seems to accelerate the CA on its own without using the accelerator spray. Other woods seem to mix better and allow more working time to use as you did with the others.
tested sanding a piece of curly birch, this filled cracks with compacted dust, added ca glue on top, cured, sanded, end result not bad, not bad at all, thinking a shiny finish to go with that
I've used the epoxy before with good results. Much better then glue that does not accept a stain or finish well. I like using the epoxy in large cracks or broken out knots. Because it turns out looking just like hard knot material and large cracks it looks like the the woods natural resin. Often regretted using glue.
Thanks for posting. I have this exact need and will test for my own wood to see which is closest. I like the mixing stain into it idea from the comments also.
The true test would have been to see how the fillers looked with finish on the sample board. I’ve just seen this one video and don’t know if you have a follow up.
I use "clear" GE Silicone Supreme caulk to hide very thin gaps in dark colored wood (unstained sapele with semigloss polyurethane finish). For some reason, this has worked on projects of mine. I cannot explain why. Try it with a test piece having deliberately-made very thin gaps. Let me know what you think.
Thank you for this testing video! I have a band saw box with embarrassingly big gaps and I believe I’ll use tightbond 3 because the wood is lighter. Very useful video!
Anybody tried adding stain to the glue and sawdust mixture? Like, say titebond 2, sawdust, then the same shade of stain that you're using on the piece that has the crack you're filling? I know from experience that wood glue does not stain but I haven't been happy with store bought wood filler either.
You have to sift the sawdust to obtain the finest possible dust. Few people talk about this, but it makes the best results. Also, Titebond Original is better than II or III because it dries hard and sands easiest, while the others can gum up and get messy.
Mix some dust in to your finish and use that to fill the cracks. It will not have the problem of the glue drying a different colour and it will fill in and look more natural.
Fill the crack with very fine wood dust, then thin CA to soak it - only downside is that it will look darker. The good news however, is that it is possible to color match using this technique, though it will take time and patience to get it just right. Wood repairs of this nature are very much an artform and are rarely accomplished by all but the most experienced restoration artists.
Isn't it a difference, if you repair a piece of wood or if you fill gaps coming from unprecision by cutting? In the first case you do not want to see, that there was a hurt in the wood. In the second case you see the connection of two pieces of wood and you know, that it is there. The second case is easier, i think. Sorry, english is not my motherlanguage. Regards from Germany.
You still get your point across pretty well Alfred! I agree, it is easier to mask the imperfection between two pieces of wood that didn't necessarily line up in the first place. When it's a cut in a single piece of wood, as in this case, all of the fine grain lines get interrupted and no amount if filling can reconnect those dots.
If you’re going to use CA, use thin CA. Pack the crack with sawdust, squirt the CA over top allowing it to wick in. Before it sets up sprinkle some more dust on top and tamp it down with you finger. Wear a glove!
You are making it more difficult by using a sample that has both light and dark grain. What works for the light grain, won't work on the dark grain. Your test cuts are a bit "unnatural" unlike a crack or a knot which would not be totally across the grain, rather more round or parallel with the grain. However, your systematic approach is good!
The test is incomplete without applying the finish. I don't use wood glue and sawdust because it does not blend with the wood when some clear finishes are applied. Another option that I sometimes use is sawdust mixed with the clear finish being used (varnish, polyurethane, shellac, or lacquer).
I have success both ways: wood glue and saw dust or epoxy and saw dust both work. However I've been experimenting using the Japanese technique of "kigoroshi" to for tight, seamless joints of mating parts. It works very well
Mark: great test! Very interesting and informative. You put a "finish" on towards the ends. What kind of finish was it? Titebond glues and epoxy wont take finishes like polyurethane very well. I'm just a newbie in woodwork but have learned that the hard way. Does one absorb the finish better than others?
Thanks Dan. I used tung oil to finish this board and the picture frame. I didn't honestly look close enough to see if the finish held to the epoxy at all. I guess my concern was that the wood on either side of the epoxy darkened enough to camoflauge the seam.
yes interesting video. I think epoxy is going to get tested in my shop. I've always liked tightbond 2. and have had good success. i do like the colored putties that are out there. quite commonly red oak completely disappears.
Thanks for the demo. I was tossing up whether to use epoxy or TBII. You have convinced me that epoxy is better which makes sense because it is almost colourless.
The CA would've formed a deep, solid, quick concrete if you'd just filled the crack w sawdust first, then used a thin CA to soak into it. Instant rock solid. Stays visible tho and can't be stained.
I use hide glue when I’m repairing certain antique pieces of furniture it’s made from just what it says animal hides and hooves which means it has a shelf life shorter than modern glue
As well, what would you recommend for filling pressure cracks in a redwood deck as far a product? I had though of performing the same test with different products to reveal what would blend in the best. If you could point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it! Thank you for your time
The glue bot had tight bond 2, the bottle labeled 3 had 3. I'm afraid I didn't do any tests to see how they would hold up in outside weather conditions. I would GUESS that epoxy would probably last the longest.
i have been in the building industry for over 35 years. Epoxy mixed with A LOT of sawdust is the best method. First, reason is it will generally accept stains better than traditional wood glues. Second, in time many woods change color. They will lighten (like dark walnut) or darken (like cherry). epoxy allows this transition to happen with the area filled at the same rate as the furniture piece, wood glue tends to not allow this natural process to happen then you have a flaw that sticks out a year or two later.
What type of epoxy?
@@arboc89did you find out?
Would opaque epoxy work or does it have to be clear?
Fantastic there are people like you guy doing these experiments.
So much information online without references.
If I remember high school correctly this is true science! Hypothesis, experiment, and results all well explained.
The CA does work when you brush dry sawdust in the joint first and then apply some drops of CA on top and let it soak in, make sure the crack is filled a bit proud so that after sanding an even surface is achieved.
Also..... What CYA glue did you use? You need to apply the THIN (like water) type so it can wick down through the sawdust to completely bond everything. Mound iit up a little then sand it level. Works great to repair guitar neck divots. Titebond 1 also works well if you mix it with the sawdust but you might have to thin it with a little water so it's like a paste.
I lived in the Middle East for many years and traded in Pakistan high end furniture. My Pakistani carpenter used to pour dry fine rosewood sawdust into cracks on rosewood furniture. Then he ran a bead of superglue on top of the sawdust filled crack. After sanding you couldn't even see the crack. You can't mix the stuff and apply it. Just fill your crack with sawdust and then run your superglue over it to saturate it.
I think i'm going to try your method with ca glue. I'm making a pistol display case and in the lid frame on the bevel near the glass there were some worm holes (should have left them alone for natural character) but I missed wood dust from the case with titebond 3 and now it looks like dark blotches in oak and very unnatural pretty much ruining a really nice case imo. wish me luck lol
Bobby JustBobby CA glue that he talked about is super glue
This was exactly what I was looking for before filling some cracks. Thanks for taking the time to make this comparison. It really helped.
That's awesome, glad I could help!
I use amber shellac to mix with the dust. Seems to work very well for me.
Down here we use what it's roughly translated as "carpenter's glue" or "white glue", wich is a vinyl adhesive and it's been the standard for wood working for ages. It's white before it's cured but it becomes translucid when dry, so you just mix that with sawdust and it won't change the color of your sawdust much, so it tends to keep the same tone of the wood. but by having a vinyl base it's not very absorbent tho'
What is the brand name of the vinyl glue you use? Thanks much.
Thanks so much for doing this video. There are countless ones that cite there various methods suggesting they work great. Your video provides an objective assessment.
Nicely done. Through my crappy little monitor, I thought that the Titebond 3 thin kerf disappeared better into the wood. As for the thicker lines / damage I would almost think about using a thin sliver of same wood to fill in the gap. Maybe test and an addendum video and compare? Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the feedback. I think adding a thin sliver would probably work great for a really exaggerated crack. I'll keep that in mind and if/when it comes up I'll test it out.
This was really good. My dog chewed up both sides of my stairwell (stringer boards) and I need to fill them in. I don't have any sawdust but that's what I want to use. Maybe I'll see if the hardware store will let me take some of theirs. I thought the Titebond III looked best. Once you redrew the lines I had trouble seeing if you drew over the new glue or next to it or whatever. So I focused on the smaller cracks you made. Thx for the video.
I like to mix a few drops of stain into my sawdust and let it dry. Now your filler will be the same color as your finish stain. Eliminates filler spots not taking stain because of glue. I also use white glue because it drys clear.
white glue, what brand would that be? it's true glues do show up after staining
Yes, specify the white glue, Elmers? Vinyl adhesive?
@@barneyrubble4827did you find a glue?
@@ccccendid you find a glue?
I found this really informative. I am about to embark on the adventure of filling the cracks in OLD unfinished adirondack chairs and this presentation in the form of an experiment was so helpful. Thank you.
I'm glad I was able to help you out Eleanor! Let me know how your chairs turn out.
Excellent project. Next, do one comparons différent ratios of glue to dust, as you imply therein may lie the solution. Very valuable work. You don't even try ordinary white wood glue, but it would be nice to see just how bad it turns out. And is there no colourless glue, not necessarily for wood, that you could try? Appreciated.
I wonder what a sealer would look like with the tung oil and saw dust.??
I took a fine arts woodworking class with a world renowned artist. I never saw him use anything but regular white Elmer's glue. He also finished all his work with linseed oil. The more coats the better. But he would sand between coats when dry. If a piece would get scratched he would just sand out that spot and add linseed oil. Very often the simplest answers the best answer.
Try a clear Elmer's gel glue, like what you get in the school supply section. Mix it really thoroughly with the sawdust, and it should come out really clean after sanding.
That's my dad's advice. I was thinking epoxy, but my dad swears by Elmer's. I think I might still go for the expoxy tho, as it is for a laminated workbench and I think epoxy will be more resilient.
Thanks for this test. I have three small floor repairs to do in my house, one each of maple, red oak, and pine (I believe the last is Doug fir actually), all of which will entail face nailing, filling nail and old tack strip holes, etc. So I was curious about what to fill each with, and if I made my own filler, what glue(s) to use and how to best match. The maple is my foremost concern, being practically white, and consistent coloration/face/with virtually no visible grain.
With your video as the instigating factor - without using any sawdust - I put a little blob of three glues I happened to have in my shop and also smeared them flat on a scrap of new pine and let dry: TB-III, Gorilla Glue, and good ol' Elmers. Of these three, TB-III (which is my go-to glue for jointing and most other uses) dries the darkest - sort of a light yellowish tan, the Gorilla Glue sort of ivory but with very slight yellow-tan color, and the Elmers virtually absolutely clear - you wouldn't know it was there unless you tilt it under a light and a slight sheen is visible (the TB-III and Gorilla also have a slight sheen - btw, all three sitting on the surface and unsanded).
I will have to experiment a little with sawdust for each wood type, but I am likely to use Elmers or Gorilla on the maple, and TB-III for the red oak and Doug fir.
It depends what I have in the shop.
If I had them both, I would go for the epoxy.
Very nice test, by my knowlidge, you are the first one to show.
Thumbs high,
Willy from Belgium.
Opaque or clear epoxy?
Excellent test. The only thing I would change is to show a closeup view after sanding. Thanks for this informative test.
A great Idea to use here is to
1. clamp the work so the miter just touches the long point.
2. Use a pull saw and slowly cut that miter seam.
3. Repeat until your joints are tight.
Flour cement. Never tried but the old timer swears by it.
I personally use equal parts water and glue and add sawdust till I get a paste then use it just like putty.
Thanks Matt, I'll give those a try some day.
just a small tip, would have been easier to understand if you had used a marker with colour
I recently tried using glue and fine dust from my sander bag. I needed to fill some knots on some English Oak. However, the substance dried black albeit the dust was a light beige colour. I’ll give it another good using the two part adhesive.
Titebond 3 from a distance looks the best
What's with using small wood sticks to mix and apply. Use a small 1" putty knife to mix the sawdust and glue component. It will mix quicker and better incorporate. Use a hard surface(metal, glass, hard plastic) to mix on. Work it together like you would mix auto body filler(Bondo) with the hardener. Apply with the putty knife and scrape off excess. Any filler that drys on the putty knife can easily scraped off with a razor blade when dry.
Interesting, as it happens I am restoring an antique Mahogany dresser probably made locally in the 1800s. Drawer sides, back and bottom are solid Australian Cedar (Toona Ciliata not a true cedar), All the finished parts are Mahogany. There were several sources & species of Mahogany during that century, but as the imported wood, it held the greatest prestige over native timbers at that time, hence the Toona Ciliata drawer internals WOW. Anyway, I have some filling to do so your comparison is timely. I found a piece of what looks like mahogany to use for repairs, same colour & grain type anyway. I tried making filler with sanding dust & Shelaqua (a water bases shellac substitute) which looked great when 1st applied but went very pale when dry. Interestingly, one Mahogany part (a cupboard shelf) had chemical stains, so I striped that to sand out stains in the timber surfaces. On applying 1 coat of Shelaqua, the surface went very pale indeed. Applied a maple stain over that 1st coat and another coat of shelaqua & it came out a good match with the existing finish.
This is the 1st time I have worked with Mahogany & it's the only only timber I have seen go pale after applying Shelaqua. It doesn't happen when its applied over another finish, so I'm guessing it's a chemical reaction with the wood. I may try stripping again and doing a sanding sealer coat before finishing with shelaqua. That's a better method anyway. I may try making a filler based on sanding sealer, just to see how it goes.
I noted the comment re epoxy below. I am not sure about epoxy as I have seen it yellows with age, as does spirit based PU.
I don't if you've ever tried filling the crack with glue and then quickly sanding right over. I use Titebond II. Just enough glue to fill the crack and it will not gunk up your orbital sander paper. It works for me! Give that a try and let me know what you think.
Interesting idea! I'll give it a shot next time I run into that situation.
Just use a darker wood dust?
what's the brand for the EPOXY?
So in theory, I can fill in some fine splits (caused by years of sun exposure) in a cabinet door using one of these methods, but I don't have to worry about getting an exact match in color because I'm planning to prime and paint the door?
Janet J. Yes correct. you could of used any filler if your gunna prime/paint it. The saw dust trick is for wood not going to be painted for color matching. Depending on the cracks sizing there are a ton of diff spackles that would work brilliant, but if it’s a larger crack try to use spackle in layers (fill a bit dry repeat) but if it a very large gap automotive bondo works great for interior patches. It get rock hard and will not break almost indefinitely. And example of not a good use for bondo is say exterior where the wood will shrink & expand a lot seasonally bc the bondo will not budge.
Thanks! I've been wondering about which glue is best also!
With the ca glue try putting saw dust on the crack, compacting it and then applying the ca on top without moving it. Then light sanding.
This is the right way to do it with CA. Definitely fill the crack first with sawdust, then hit it with CA. It'll give a much better result.
@@Retro6502 Having the gap filled with loose sawdust and capping it with CA glue is like placing a lid on a container of sawdust. Wood glue mixed with the sawdust is a better method.
@@Assimilator702 both ways should work. If someone's using CA for something like this, they'd want to use thin CA so that it will penetrate down into the sawdust. Thick CA or gel CA wouldn't be a good as it would tend sit on top as you suggest. Thin CA should penetrate and be absorbed into the sawdust.
Agree with the epoxy makes sense because it's clear takes on the colors you need perfect.
I've had good results with hot hide glue and sawdust - and it'll take stain and shellac finish. Also shellac and sawdust works very well. I restore musical vintage instruments.
What kind of shellac?
I tend to use unwaxed shellac - color of shellac and sawdust to suit the application - and a fairly thick shellac mix
Walnut seems to accelerate the CA on its own without using the accelerator spray. Other woods seem to mix better and allow more working time to use as you did with the others.
Also, what really matters is what it looks like after you put some varnish or whatever over it.
Which one is stainable?
tested sanding a piece of curly birch, this filled cracks with compacted dust, added ca glue on top, cured, sanded, end result not bad, not bad at all, thinking a shiny finish to go with that
I've used the epoxy before with good results. Much better then glue that does not accept a stain or finish well. I like using the epoxy in large cracks or broken out knots. Because it turns out looking just like hard knot material and large cracks it looks like the the woods natural resin. Often regretted using glue.
Thanks for posting. I have this exact need and will test for my own wood to see which is closest. I like the mixing stain into it idea from the comments also.
If you fill the crack with the dust and use thin CA glue it works great.
The true test would have been to see how the fillers looked with finish on the sample board. I’ve just seen this one video and don’t know if you have a follow up.
You have to fill the gap with sawdust before you apply the CA.
Great video, very helpful! Thanks. You saved me from making a big mistake with the CA Glue on a walnut inlay I'm working on.
I'm glad I could help!
I would have never mixed 2 part epoxy and wood sanding dust together. But I am total on the same page it looks the best. Thanks for doing the test.
I use "clear" GE Silicone Supreme caulk to hide very thin gaps in dark colored wood (unstained sapele with semigloss polyurethane finish). For some reason, this has worked on projects of mine. I cannot explain why. Try it with a test piece having deliberately-made very thin gaps. Let me know what you think.
I have some poorly jointed cabinet doors I’m going to strain summer oak and for the cracks try saw dust mixed with summer oak poly stain, more later!
Great video!! brilliantly done, to the point & extremely useful... THANKS FOR THIS!! Blessings!!
Thank you for this testing video! I have a band saw box with embarrassingly big gaps and I believe I’ll use tightbond 3 because the wood is lighter. Very useful video!
Anybody tried adding stain to the glue and sawdust mixture? Like, say titebond 2, sawdust, then the same shade of stain that you're using on the piece that has the crack you're filling? I know from experience that wood glue does not stain but I haven't been happy with store bought wood filler either.
You have to sift the sawdust to obtain the finest possible dust. Few people talk about this, but it makes the best results. Also, Titebond Original is better than II or III because it dries hard and sands easiest, while the others can gum up and get messy.
What brand of expoxy did you use?
Is that a slow drying or fast drying epoxy
Mix some dust in to your finish and use that to fill the cracks. It will not have the problem of the glue drying a different colour and it will fill in and look more natural.
isn't that just what he did in the video?
No. He mixed it with the bonding agent (glue). This is a suggestion to mix with whatever you're using as a finish.
He finished with tung oil. That's not going to help mixed with sawdust.
Why not pour the sawdust into the crack and add the CA glue on top?
I do that. It works.
Try a wood filler by Elmers called proBond. it’s a wood filler designed specifically for walnut as is it walnut colored
Fill the crack with very fine wood dust, then thin CA to soak it - only downside is that it will look darker. The good news however, is that it is possible to color match using this technique, though it will take time and patience to get it just right. Wood repairs of this nature are very much an artform and are rarely accomplished by all but the most experienced restoration artists.
mix the sawdust with the finish you plan on using
Isn't it a difference, if you repair a piece of wood or if you fill gaps coming from unprecision by cutting? In the first case you do not want to see, that there was a hurt in the wood. In the second case you see the connection of two pieces of wood and you know, that it is there. The second case is easier, i think.
Sorry, english is not my motherlanguage. Regards from Germany.
You still get your point across pretty well Alfred! I agree, it is easier to mask the imperfection between two pieces of wood that didn't necessarily line up in the first place. When it's a cut in a single piece of wood, as in this case, all of the fine grain lines get interrupted and no amount if filling can reconnect those dots.
If you’re going to use CA, use thin CA. Pack the crack with sawdust, squirt the CA over top allowing it to wick in. Before it sets up sprinkle some more dust on top and tamp it down with you finger. Wear a glove!
You are making it more difficult by using a sample that has both light and dark grain. What works for the light grain, won't work on the dark grain. Your test cuts are a bit "unnatural" unlike a crack or a knot which would not be totally across the grain, rather more round or parallel with the grain. However, your systematic approach is good!
Great video. Thanks for your comparison, it was very informative.
I would recommend using really thin veneers of whatever the original wood is
Agree that epoxy worked the best. Good video and test! Thanks!
The test is incomplete without applying the finish. I don't use wood glue and sawdust because it does not blend with the wood when some clear finishes are applied. Another option that I sometimes use is sawdust mixed with the clear finish being used (varnish, polyurethane, shellac, or lacquer).
I have success both ways: wood glue and saw dust or epoxy and saw dust both work.
However I've been experimenting using the Japanese technique of "kigoroshi" to for tight, seamless joints of mating parts. It works very well
What finish did you use...?
Great video, answered my questions before I had even thought about the problems.
Mark: great test! Very interesting and informative. You put a "finish" on towards the ends. What kind of finish was it? Titebond glues and epoxy wont take finishes like polyurethane very well. I'm just a newbie in woodwork but have learned that the hard way. Does one absorb the finish better than others?
Thanks Dan. I used tung oil to finish this board and the picture frame. I didn't honestly look close enough to see if the finish held to the epoxy at all. I guess my concern was that the wood on either side of the epoxy darkened enough to camoflauge the seam.
The man said Tung Oil.
Yep - he sure did. I missed it at that point.
yes interesting video. I think epoxy is going to get tested in my shop. I've always liked tightbond 2. and have had good success. i do like the colored putties that are out there. quite commonly red oak completely disappears.
Thanks for the demo. I was tossing up whether to use epoxy or TBII. You have convinced me that epoxy is better which makes sense because it is almost colourless.
Add some baking soda in with the sawdust, place in the crack, then apply CA glue to the crack line.
Very useful video. Thank you.
What about on a lighter color wood like maple?
Super glue is always the best. Hands down
How did you achieve the same colour as the wood?
used the dust from the saw type of wood
Put the sawdust in the crack, level it up, then drip the C A glue on it!!!
I was going to say - yeah - you did the CA test wrong. Pack it with sawdust and use a thin CA glue.
Titebond transparent glue is really good for this ;-)
but how is it after staining and finish?
very comprehensive, thanks!
I'm glad I could help. I was very curious about this myself so I figured other people might be too.
Great test. Epoxy definitely looks better to me from here.
I thing, the Epoxy is the better solution. Well done my friend. And thank you.
The CA would've formed a deep, solid, quick concrete if you'd just filled the crack w sawdust first, then used a thin CA to soak into it. Instant rock solid. Stays visible tho and can't be stained.
Super helpful as I was just getting ready to do this exact thing! Thanks for saving me the trouble of doing the test!
Well done . Thank you
my cracks are in the rootball end of my Blackthorn sticks, this is a reasonably useful video thank you. (i use epoxy).
Its still a solid color with no grain!
useful info, thanks!
No problem!
Thanks mate....
Nice video thanks man!
Should try shellac I watched a similar video and it seemed better
Another thing i found with CA glue is the patches are much darker '
I noticed that too.
Maybe with Liquid Nail?
too many lines, which line is tightbond 2 wide line?
Thanks
Try testing all 3 types of CA glue they have different dry times
PS. No sawdust needed when filling grain. Just paint it on and let it cure sand with 220 and then second coat then 320. Do not wet sand
Thanks for your video!
You're welcome, I hope it was helpful!
You omitted the correct glue for this, hide glue.
I've never even heard of that glue. I'll have to look into it.
Gunflint Designs Titebond makes a hide glue. It does not need to be heated. I haven't tried it yet though.
I use hide glue when I’m repairing certain antique pieces of furniture it’s made from just what it says animal hides and hooves which means it has a shelf life shorter than modern glue
Titebond II or III? You mention and write Titebond II, yet the label says Titebond III (Ultimate).
As well, what would you recommend for filling pressure cracks in a redwood deck as far a product? I had though of performing the same test with different products to reveal what would blend in the best. If you could point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it! Thank you for your time
The glue bot had tight bond 2, the bottle labeled 3 had 3. I'm afraid I didn't do any tests to see how they would hold up in outside weather conditions. I would GUESS that epoxy would probably last the longest.
It looks a million times better when you use coarser sawdust. Handsaw waste looks the best.
Now there's a though. Interesting!