ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ค. 2017
- 6 attempts, and I still haven't figured out how to make a perfect copper cast. Blame it on my OCD baby. What are we missing here? In this video we're testing out the foundry and it’s efficiency for melting copper. If you’re wondering if melting copper, casting metal, and copper casting is possible with a homemade foundry...then check out this awesome experiment from TKOR. Follow Grant to find out what works, what doesn’t, and the mistakes you NEED to avoid!
This metal foundry project is also great for those wanting to know how to do other cool things with a foundry: copper casting, sand casting, mini metal foundry, making metal ingots, how to melt metal, foundry project, melting with foundry, how to make metal from fidget spinners, melting metal, metal making, mini metal foundry, fidget spinner stunts, cool fidget spinner, DIY fidget spinner, fidget spinner fail, melt steel, science projects and more!
If you’re looking to try something new or for an activity such as: DIY foundry project, melting fidget spinners experiment, cool science experiments, fun weekend project, metal experiment, STEM project, STEM research, or just a fun project with the family, watch the video to learn more.
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Grant Thompson - "The King of Random" second today
Hi I love all of your vid:).
Grant Thompson - "The King of Random" second
I ordered your fidget.
Grant Thompson - "The King of Random" hi
I just remembered how much I loved this guy
He's dead
@@_Ainz Not in my world
U don't have a world
The Legens same
xXskeletronXx I have a world
In minecraft lol
Grant, i think the water in the sand starts boiling and thats why it becomes unstable. The copper is also very heavy and thats why the sand starts floating on top.
late but I think the copper is so hot that the mold drys as it is being cast
renevank im just wondering what would happen if he used kinetic sand? Is there any difference?
Wilbert Coloma do you mean hydrophobic sand? That would be impossible because it would stay soft by not absorbing water. That way it could not form a solid mold.
If you did it properly and used epoxy sand then everything would be okay.
renevank
Yes. The damp sand method works for rough shapes only. But is extremely
useful for reusing scrap lead in making expensive weights for surf fishing. Also molten lead is not too hot to have to use specialized insulation while casting.
I worked in a foundry for many years. We have chemicals to our sand so it sets better and holds it's shape better. One other thing is we never pour directly into the piece we are making. We have runners and vents which allow the metal to flow and fill. I hope this helps.
Was thinking the same.. would be so easy and perfect with vents
Waterglass to the sand, hardened with CO2.
to bad he can't see this😭😭😭😭
@@redpearyear wait he has dead?? Ive seen some comments bout that
@@gyrozeppeli8932 yes sadly :,( R.I.P
Failing never stopped you. Forever Rest In Peace the true king of random
GavDawg how did he die
@@riccardomancini784 paramotor
@@riccardomancini784 obama sniped him in the pingus
Paragliding
He had better video ideas than nate and cali
Copper dissolves gasses when hot and releases them when cooling thus it is much easier to cast if you add something to disrupt that like a hand full of zinc pennies or a roll of lead free solder.
He said that he's already done bronze, and wanted to try pure copper. Also nice to see you here Cody.
Well in that case he is going to need some flux and better casting medium.
Not a bad idea though
woah, Cody! agreed. REALLY nice to see you here.
Wouldn't borax help as well?
If the sand is wet the moment the molten copper touches the sand it will evaporate the water. When liquid water changes to steam it expands in volume by about 22 times. That forms a steam barrier between your molten copper and the sand and since it takes a LOT of heat to raise water from room temperature to 100C and then to steam (about 4200 Joules per gram per degree Celsius of liquid water + whatever you need to change water to steam) your copper will conform to the mold of the steam barrier which will probably not be as uniform as the sand mold. That steam also pushes on the 3 little sand pillar in the middle.
I think the reason they kept popping off are:
1) Steam forming at the bottom of the mold ( like the bottom face of your gear) is under a lot of pressure since the hole gear is on top of it. It presses against the bottom of your pillars deforming it creating a weakness on a already weak spot.
2) That spot is already under a lot stress from the hydrostatic pressure from the molten copper. (One of the reasons damns aren't perpendicular to the ground, but thicker at the bottom).
3) Sand is also less dense and buoyant force will push the pillar to the surface of the molten copper.
Adding water might seem to make the less less "brittle" but i think it's actually detrimental during the actual molding.
What I would suggest would be:
1) make the mold more shallow. Maybe make the gear half as thick? It should help the buoyancy problem since it increases proportionally to the volume of your pillar.
2) Less water. Aside from the steam problem it will allow your copper to cool more slowly, which i think was one of the things you wanted.
3) Pour slowly. I noticed the pillar that pops off is usually near where you pour. Copper is very heavy and dense. After is hits the bottom it will start dispersing throughout the bottom of your mold. It will put a lot of lateral force on whatever is in it's way. (Think standing in front of an avalanche, you are the pillar. as you continuously pour copper it's as if snow would keep coming down on you). Maybe a slow steady pour moving around the mold? Ideally you would want all sides of the pillar to have the same height of copper so all sides are being pushed by the copper with the same amount of force.
Alex Kim nerd
smart nerd
You're exactly right about the buoyant forces from the copper. It's much more dense than aluminum so the mold needs to be stronger.
Besides the other tricks, I would have tried embedding some copper wire in the mold in the pillars to reinforce it; just poking a bunch of wires in at different angles would probably make it a lot stronger. I couldn't say whether or not it would be strong *enough* without trying it, though.
Stone Yeti1234 dont be mad cause you're not smart bro😂😂
Rip man, watching every vid and commenting RIP
Rip
Rip
Rest in peace
Press F to respect.... Rest in peace.
F
My favorite youtuber. I wish I had the opportunity to tell him how much I learned from him. Rest in peace my friend and thank you.
Hi Grant, I can help with the issues your having. your close but there are a few simple things that need to be addressed.
Your green sand needs to be "milled" this is the process of completely covering your sand with the clay. its a crappy, long and labor intensive process but its the only way to make viable "true" green sand. effectively you need to mix the sand aloooot, one of the best ways is to place it on a tarp and walk on it for ages aka more than 10 mins. you could also put it in a large plastic container and squash it by hand but its alot harder.
Second i would recommend not pouring your copper directly into the casting shape but rather through a channel so that falling copper doesn't hit your pattern sand. (all sand casting is done this way unless your using petrobond) The falling copper could weaken the sand or directly damage the pattern. copper is heavy! so it gathers abit of energy as it falls.
Last, I would highly highly highly recommend you use the top of your mold! you made it for a reason! that can brace the clay and its possible you can skip the above two steps if you simply give the mold that extra support.
hope this helps. I have cast copper, aluminium, gold and silver for years, I even did my undergrad research project on perfecting a high resolution mixture. if you get questions pm me.
Dam bro, write a book
Erectopotomus this practically is a book… a real long book
Just a dude wanting to help, is that so wrong?
Really nice of you to help !! I was 263 like !!
I was about to offer the advice with the channel! Beat me to the punch by less than an hour! DANGIT!
You need to make the mold double sided with sand on the top and bottom and use at least 2 breather holes and one pour hole. The added sand on top will help insulate all the heat and keep it molten for longer. Additionally, the sand on top will prevent the center sections from lifting up and floating.
Matthew Utt ii
Thinker 44 Duh huh i
you're very right Matthew
Also the riser where you pour the molten metal in will act as a reservoir to replenish through casting as it contracts.
yes! That is the main reason he is having so many problems.
RIP. Hopefully wherever you are you are at peace 🙏
Lets Nominate him this year for a Streamy!
hes dead?
What happend?
Trent Wickham unforchintly, we now don’t know what’s he doing now.
Jared Reed Yea! Let’s nonnanate Nate!
I watch all of Grant's videos again
But its not the same
Story Time that hit me..
Yeah 😭😭😭😔😔
Rip
😢🥺💔
you need two sides of the green sand and make a tube from the middle of the gear to pour the copper from. this allow the shape to stay in tact and the molten copper will not cool that fast.
and keep the styrofoam in there. it helps to maintain the shape.
Jude Lau +
Jude Lau was going to say the same
Just wanted to write the same :D
Ps: one tube must be one one edge of the gear and the other tube on the other edge so gasses could escape and the would stay intact becouse metal would shrink in the tubes( risers) and not in the gear.
Juse Lau is correct ... You should do this project with a 2 part mold just like how engines other metal components are made. The 2 part mold will yield a better casting!
Professional caster to the rescue!
Don't melt the Styrofoam, and skim the slag off the top of the copper. It's a defective impurity. Also a neat trick to the sand is add sand epoxy.
Yeah I was so confused as to why he kept melting the Styrofoam first!
KingSusan420 also the sand was to wet and here's why the water evaporated so fast the sand whent upward
KingSusan420 I'm no caster but I've seen others remove their mould using screws to leave just a cavity in the sand, would that help?
KingSusan420 "professional caster" you should imediatly see that his sand is NOT for casting. Its just some play sand, he needs clay to make real shapes that hold up. Also he wouldnt need styrofoam and even if he would still use it, one template would be enough (you know you can take them out if you use proper casting sand)
Charles Tull The sand is NOT for casting.
This man was a legend, Hes such a family man and trying to be so kid friendly that he dosent curse and instead of saying "Holy S***" He said "Holy heck" This man was a true LEGEND
That's what I like, TH-camrs nowadays are a bunch of potty mouths
@@AhnafAbdullah "potty mouths"
Look, I'm trying, okay? But sometimes, I just get overwhelmed. I'll try to be better from now on, I promise.
hahahahaha!!!
It's okay, we still love you. Want a hug?
get out here of here and go get your brother, Bronze. We never liked you anyways copper. You are just a sad and lumpy metal
@Brooke Pollitt lol
This would not work due to the fake that the clay would over heat and crack
Why were you casting it in an open mould? why not just making a closed mould with a gate, runner and riser system, in that way you can keep the sand in place, control the pouring speed and it also has a better insulation to prevent premature solidification. The same way you cast the brass knuckles.
You are foundry man. Haha
Yifan yifan I agree...an enclosed mold might help!
Agreed. And it will also keep the heat in and the material won't solidify causing a cold joint where the too faced meet
Also it would keep "pressure" on the copper and keep it in place
Yifan yifan... Exactly what I was thinking. 👍👍
Just a thought from my high school metal shop days, but in the process of making bronze for a trinket I tested the capability of our school foundry with copper. I discovered that in casting I needed to add a fluxing agent in order to get a clean cast as gasses end up bubbling up through the molten copper. Another thought to avoid the steam issue might me to switch to oil dampened sand. I don't know the particular oil offhand, but again in my metal shop days we used black sand casting that utilized oil as the binding agent. I'm sure a google search might shed a little light on that option. You might also try using both halves of the sand casting to hold down the middle sections in the radioactive sign so that they don't float away. Anyways, thanks for all the great content!
linseed oil.
You could clearly see vaporised water (steam) from the green sand bubbling up through the molten copper.
Argh...
Why is seeing your face now is hard?
Yes, this saddens me so much, I wish I didn’t have to watch this, but it was too interesting, sad
I remeber being like 7 or 8 and watching his vids and now he is gone it's so heart breaking
Thinking about his videos makes me sad
Same
seeing him alive and happy here knowing that hes dead now makes everything feel so bad
Its the sand.. Has nothing to do with the copper.
Noah Saucier ...If he knows that, why does he not understand why it won't work? Jason A. is just giving facts not ridiculing him, so no need for the butt hurt.
Bradley Bellwether lmao nobody was butthurt. You're the one jumping to conclusions.
@@bradleybellwether3063 surely sounds like you're the butt hurt one here bud
The green sand clearly didn't have enough clay in it.😞
Noah Saucier the sand is like glass so it moves easily with copper
Great vid bud I might have some idea's as to why your having difficulties, I have done greensand copper casts before, I am pretty sure your center detail is popping out because of two reasons. 1: the additional moisture in your greensand allows for steam to be created with the metal being so hot its instant which will weaken your structure as the steam cannot escape through the metal so it pushes through the sand. Ideally greensand is about 6% moisture, and 2: your only using half of your mold, use both the cope and the drag and it will support your mold alot more just make some sprue holes and pour the metal into it the mold will insulate the copper and im sure you will get better results. Feel free to contact me if you wanna talk more about your greensand copper casting,
Jiyuu-jin lets hope hee sees this comment !!! Grant Notice HIM HI HAS A IDEA!!!!
I was going to say he isn't getting it hot enough. Sure it's molten but it's cooling too fast and the wet sand is making the situation worse.
He should also use oil instead of water and he should use very fine sand
Jiyuu-jin
mills help
TGOTR yeah but what you were going to say isnt making any sense because if the temperature difference is higher it will cool even faster, and he cannot get it hotter. he held it in there for 20min, thats enough time to get the copper to tha max temperature - the oven isnt getting any hotter so the copper wont neither
Grant...grant...grant...
The reason the sand kept on popping out was because you didn't pat it enough before you were casting... you need to pat the sand harder and every time you add a new layer. Watch press tubes video, he patted the sand constantly until it was almost a complete solid, the harder you pound the sand around the styrofoam, the more secure and tough your mold will hold while casting.
Also i think it would be better to put the 2. sandbox on top so that it also holds in the sand
He should add a better binding agent. Something like powder made of cat litter sand grinned with coffee grinder.
TrendCrave I thought so too
i also dont think his sand mixture is right
Trend craving its you yay
1. You need to use bentonite clay mixed with the sand to make it stick together.
2. You don't need to burn the foam out.
3. You really should use a cope and drag type mold with gating, your results will be much better with few failed castings.
The fact that. you showed us the failures is testament to your character. I say thank you. As a learning exercise some of the other guys use a releasing agent such as talcum powder to allowing easy release of the template. One guy also talked about using oil to bind the sand. He didn't. say what type of oil. This was an excellent learning resource, thank you.
What you need to do is to sandwich the mold in a top and bottom layer and put two holes on the top layer so one is to pour the liquid in and the others to vent. And it should keep the liquid in the mold hot so the copper can form to the mold better!
Josh Galanda what he said.
Josh Galanda I have done copper green sand molds using the above method and can confirm. The issue isnt the temperature of the copper it is the density of sand versus copper...The sand is experiencing a boyant force...Correct this by burrying the mold in packed green sand on both ends and then tunneling to a part of the finished product. This will result in the mold having a rod shaped apendage which can easilly be sawed and then filed off.
reece Jones but the thing is the copper wouldn't be easy to sand down and it is inefficient.
Josh Galanda risers & gates!
that's exactly how i did it when i took foundry class except i casted bronze. also, i had to take the model out before pouring any molten metal in. the sand i used was red in color
Wrong kind of foam? House insulation is fire retardant. When you pour the copper it takes so much energy to vaporise the fire resistant foam it's pulling so much thermal energy from the copper it's thickening. You just need to use cheap polystyrene so that it can instantly vapourish when the copper flows into the mould! upvote so the king can see this!!
DJust787 you're right
DJust787 😊
I have never thought about that. I have been screaming "REMOVE THE FOAM" for the last video.Untill i realized that that would be destroying the mold. That's why i told him to make clay molds.
DJust787 Exactly what I was thinking
I still think he could preheat the mould in the oven at like 200 f.
I wish I possessed your ability to maintain such composure and positivity during what I can tell is so stressful and aggravating
Really great video, I enjoyed it immensely! I’m sorry that you didn’t get your full gear ⚙️, but I admire your "Stick-To-It-Ness" you displayed!
You need a closed mold, not an open one- the little nubs won't be able to float up if they are joined to both the upper and lower surfaces.
SuicideNeil have you molded one of these before?
SuicideNeil ima large NUBB
this. do this also the foam needs to be removed after molding the sand
well
Yeah, But sand destroying is another problem. Thats why it would need to be a closed CARDBOARD MOLD- JK. It would have to be a clay mold too if he wants the holes in the gears.
all that work making the green sand forms and you only use one half? the copper cooled too quick because you didnt use the top half of the form to insulate the cast. the sand broke away because you didnt use a spru, the liquid copper is heavy so when you pour it in it erodes the sand and can destroy the shape. using both the cope and drag will solve both issues
Notgnihtrow I'm glad I'm not the only one who knows what he's doing wrong!
this
He needs to see this.
Notgnihtrow you would think he would have researched this, or at least looked at the thousands of copper casting vids on this platform. Drove me nuts watching the last 2 vids
Notgnihtrow I've watched other Channels cast copper and explain things that he could have used but watching through this it made me a little mad but either way he tried
just a thought, i used to work in the art department of a foundry that produced brass belt buckles, the sand they used was mixed with regular, new motor oil. They were able to achieve fairly fine detail. Their process was very similar to what you are doing. they had hydraulic tampers instead of wood blocks. Each casting was pressed from a reusable Zinc master. They reused their sand after sieving it for chunks.They always faced with new sand. Since was not in the foundry section, i can only offer what i observed. keep up the great videos, i enjoy they immensely.
He’s not dead,
He is alive in all of our hearts, and you can never truly die if you have videos of you, or you are in people’s memories.
And don’t say rest in piece, for him say, experiment with happiness and fun.
true 😭
I like how you show the fails and mistakes one can easily make while doing stuff like this. Science hobbies are all trial and error with an enormous learning curve lol. Great channel!
The problem you had was all because of density! At 7,898 g/cm3, molten copper is very dense. Whereas the density of wet sand is roughly 1.905 g/cm3. The three sand pieces kept falling apart because they wanted to float on top of the molten copper!! Hope this helps!
Alex Agaciak also, it did not show if he was using the mesh strainer? It really needs the fine packed sand to hold together better. Grant don't give up, but use finer grade sand first.
all he has to do is put a weight on top of the 3 sans pieces before he pours. may want to reinforce the sides of the 3 pieces as well
I came to add this, found it at the top.
I vote for doing this, too.
Put a lid on it nerd!
I'm classified as a professional foundryman, and even though I have a long list of critiques, I still love this guy! We are all missing the king of random!
R.I.P brother. You will be missed.😭😢
F
F
What happened
@@kcannon333 Paragliding Crash
@@redstonerapid5926 did the grant thompson
Copper is only $2.20/lbs, so unless you have about 30lbs in that gear it isn't $60 of copper. The reasons copper tubes cost that much is the work that goes into processing them. After working with copper I'm sure you are aware that it's not easy to create tubes.
P.S. your foundry video was what got me into your channel, please keep doing foundry videos! Test alloys and stuff, I don't know, just do more!
I'm sure he ment the retail price to begin with...
Andrew Evenson Genius😒
Different prices in different locations. Places that don't have quick/easy access to copper will have higher prices due to transport costs.
pennies are copper and they are worth one cent, kinda just shot a hole in the expensive argument
No. Just no. They are copper coated.
could the problem actually be the styrofoam shrinking as it melts constricting on the pillars of sand in the center ruining them
I loved his enthusiasm ❤️ we miss you dude
When we thermite weld railroad tracks we use a foundry clay. It has sand already in the clay, but the clay needs to be heated slightly prior to pouring your slag/metal. You don’t want your clay to appear slimy because any additional moisture may explode because of temperature difference.
well, here' s our proof that grant is also a human.
his programming includes a believable amount of "human error" protocols in case of disbelief.
Lmfao
I've tried what u need to do is burry the gear and make a funnel in the sand leading to the gear under the sand
yea. gating is important, I assume that's what you mean Blake. open face molds have never impressed me in performance.
Blake Deering that's what I was thinking
Blake Deering it dose not work well use oil based sand
up
this is water based.....
I love how that foundry growls like a BEAST
RIP man hope there’s a TH-cam in heaven so you can keep educating and doing what you love
Heavens not real
I'm not weird everyone else is weird and I'm normal ok then
Green sand is not solid enough you need oil sands, and an upper box with spru and riser
Bob Dip exactly what i said, finally someone understands 🤣
Green sand is plenty solid, but an upper box and a riser or two will definitely help. And maybe a flux, too, like borax.
It looked like he wasnt packing the pieces that popped out enough... he should be packing it down layer by layer
Bob Dip you are right, the sand he uses looks like normal play sand but you need oil sand or what was mostly used is clay-sand it holds the shape better is much more solid and you actually can take out the template
Bob Dip it's just that he didn't pack it right, plus if he used styrofoam it would burn off entirely as well as burn quicker
You should use a closed mould. This would mean that the radioactive shapes cannot float up and ruin the casting. Also, pouring the copper directly onto the sand could damage the mould. Using spruces instead should help with the problem. Hope this can help you succeed!!!
Ash Cain it's mold not mould.
HOWYOUBEEN depends on where you live like with colour or favourite
HOWYOUBEEN grammar nazi
GamingRising Exactly
Nope, depends on if you are using incorrect english or proper english.
Incorrect being American, proper being British.
So he is right.
I absolutely LOVE your persistence!
I have very little experience with casting, however the man that I helped always used a sealed cast for more dense materials. I doubt that is the proper name. but basically completely cover the gear with sand and have a pour spout going into the foam chamber. I could be wrong but I also believe it may help gold the hear in longer. allowing it to fill the mold better.
Basically you need to cover it up completely and have a foam "tube" going up which the copper can melt through, once the cast is done you just remove the tube with a saw and then file it down.
I think you should use a two piece mold to make the copper more workable and avoid the sand chunks from breaking👍
You do not know but you die 2 years after this video comes out. In 2019 R.I.P.
Oof you just had to do it
You’re getting my like for cracking the hollow styrofoam, thank you for the satisfaction:))
The reason why the sand is breaking is not the melting point. The burning mold produces gas. The pressure from the escaping gases has no where else to go. The copper is more dense than the sand. So the Sand gives way. This goes for all who are trying to make molds with foam.
yes, he needs a better curing method for his green sand...I am guessing his clay content is kind of low as that sand did not look like the stuff I usually use. I make my molds pretty wet, then let them cure. Rarely do I leave the core of the mold in place either, nor do I open pour more than 30-45g of metal either; and for copper I don't use sand at all...plaster is way better for non-ferrous casting.
and adding water to the sand makes even more gas with nowhere to go...
I think that another important reason (or more important then the escaping gases) is the Idrostatic force. I don't know the specific weight of sand but I'm sure that buoyancy force has a important role.
it works fine for brass. i use sand casting for all my gun mounts.
smart cookie , btw cookies cant besmart they have no brain , jk
I think the issue comes from the fact that molten copper is around 3.4x denser than molten aluminum. I think the bouency force was enough to separate the bond in the sand. the solution could be placing metal inside the radioactive symbols before packing the sand or by adding somthing inside the mold that would strengthen the bond in the sand. something like the plastic Christmas tree fasteners. Or anything long and with well defined edges.
For higher heat metals that are not Ferros metals, it's often best to use a denser molding material. I think it requires a higher silicon clay count for sand molding, or as someone said before using an oil base. Another thought would be to bake the clay sand mold to harden it so that it stays rigid in the casting.
I hope grant sees this
2017: Argh! Why is copper so difficult?
2019: Argh! Why is COPPA so difficult?
Wolfmeister508 FACTS THO😂
7
Still rewatching these after all these years, why do the knowledgeable have to die so young.
Put your chickens in the furnace and melt them down to cast a fake chicken
two things. Green Sand isn't the right level of clay plus talcom powder may be of great use... also, you need the upper portion of your cast mold to retain both structure and heat. you should do a side by side of your greensand compared to the professional grade stuff. second, please build or buy a smelters crucible arm.
He does for the smaller smelter, that is why he is using the Tongs for now.
i had a laughing fit at 3:30 imagining will smith holding the molten cooper and saying "oo that's hot"
RIP...... You touched our hearts, you helped our minds and you will live on forever !!!
why don"t you cover the mold with the top part and make a cavity for copper to go in?
this will prevent the sand pieces from popping, and leave only a small part of the mold exposed to air, hence giving copper more time to cool down... That's what I think.
btw the last gear is by far your best one :)
Yup. Make a sandwich mold, and cover with a steel plate of some sort. As +TheNorskViking mentioned, the sand is floating on the molten copper. Putting a capping plate over the works, and maybe adding some additional weight would help.
Help this genius!
masallah your smart
Abderraouf Mehdi Bouhali what he needs to do is mold it in something other than sand, the metal heats up the sand so much that it would just push it around.
I agree. having a two part mold would make a huge difference. it will also keep the centers from popping out
Disclaimer: I posted this comment on the last video too.
Can your furnace get hot enough to melt rock? Then you would have your own lava for an even greater number of possible experiments.
Josh Palmer I believe he did melt rocks once. ones from his backyard.
Josh Palmer would be cool but difficult
he made an arc furnace and melted rocks several years ago.
Yes he did. But he use an arc furnace in the video
Nicholas Rivera like 5 years ago
Hey Grant!
As you noticed yourself during the casting of the last gear, you commented on the crispy sand. What if, you put the mold with the styrofoam gear some place hot and let it become a bit crispy. And in that way, make the sand hold together more easily?
First of all I need to say thanks for your efforts and determination on this experiment the problem you almost ran into everytime might be that the sand you use has lower density than that of copper ,which caused those parts to the surface as if they were floating but I must say I'm not quite sure
What about popping the mould into the oven for a few mins? The heat will melt away the styrofoam and it will dry out the sand as well...
Nitrous Oxide The sand cools down the copper too quickly, heating the sand lowers the Temperature difference between the copper and the sand.
yea i was thinking he could preheat the mould with a propane torch maybe?
MagicSteve46 The problem with the torch is that if he's not careful it could ruin the mold. Even heating the mold up to 450 in the oven would solve a lot of his problems
The sand needs to be wet not dry
irfan2507 Wrong
Sand is fine if it is constrained by the edges of the mould, but for any internal structure points with no edge reinforcement, the buoyant force of the copper is going to cause the less dense sand to float.
It's no surprise this didn't work when you think about the science behind the materials being used.
A closed mould may work better as it would give the internal sand structures two points of constraint.
actually, temporary molds are fine, but they are not just sand... they are a combination of more stuff, and it usually gets black due to some of the elements... like, a special clay and some other stuff... I don't use temporary molds very often,,, but in homemade projects I make them researching what I am going to cast
CSGuitars, I was just about to comment that
Guys, it's about views, not about melting copper.
Oil based sand works really well for molds like this I've watched PressTube for a while and that's what he uses to make molds like this
CSGuitars I will bet "a dime to a donut" the difficulty is the low density of copper and the fact alloy he calls copper most likely contains nickle and other elements.
If I use an open mold for projects like your gear I’ve found using a mixture of sand / plaster of Paris adjacent to projects to work wonderfully.
I was a molder when I was young. We made sand or ceramic powder mixed with a resin into a nonstick mold. The resin had a catalist to make it harden. When the resin hardens, it only took minutes then I would separate the mold from the sand or ceramic mixture. After separation you need to heat your mold with a torch to dry it completely out. Your resin was alcohol based so it would burn and dry out faster. After this I would pour the molten brass or other metals.
I saw someone doing casting with some alloy ( probably brass ) in red sand and it included a hole through brass was poured in as well as it was enclosed except the hole and at last the excess part of the metal was cut if excess metal was poured and the casting turned out to be perfect but I am not too sure it will work here since components are different but if wanna try be King of Random Awesomeness.
- A Student who likes experiments
not sure why he didn't do that here, he has done it in previous castings with aluminum. It helps both problems, better support for the sand to hold its shape and better insulated so the metal doesn't cool as fast.
this, by leaving the mold open the sand can pop out
when the mold is closed it cannot pop out
simple casting magic
Tsubasa Ottori i know who the person. PressTube
@CharmanderFan20 CharFan20 I actually saw it before my eyes. It was done by a few villagers when i went for a vacation.
looks like your sand needs a binder.
Year i use oil sand for my casting videos work great!
Try melting the crucible. I don't know if it's even possible. But try it once.
Thank you so much for the videos. Love them.
It's not impossible, but it would be dangerous and tedious. Crucibles were built to withstand the extreme heat and pressure you get from molten metals and minerals, some of those often found in magma and lava.
Aside from the starting angle of the mold when the pouring starts, and your way of pouring, my problem when I worked in a foundry was learning to keep the mold the right temp, and checking for graphite buildup inside..
They were Iron molds, I forgot to mention.
Grand, its easy to fix it, it isnt the coppor you need to add a few more grams of clay to the mix from the sand than it will be something harder than it will work ( LIKE THAT HE SEES IT )
Drayzz his name is grant
Drayzz u spelled copper wrong. U spell copper like that not like copper.
either add more clay or poke metal skewers through each of the bits of sand that were falling off so it keeps in place. Like to let Grant know
Drayzz I'm
"LIKE THAT HE SEES IT" Are you patting yourself on the back for making a TH-cam comment ? Even if that helps, you're pretentious...
Try making the greensand with fireclay instead of normal clay it's what worked for me.
or a 2 part mold would work much better
It is unnecessary to do that if you use fireclay though. and a 2 part mold can sometimes make it more difficult.
or a cement mixture which would allow for multiple casting of the same mold
The 2-part mold also allows for greater fine detail and edge detail, something Grant is always complaining about with his casts. He's also experienced enough that a 2-part should prove no issue for him.
hes using one half of a 2 part mould
there is a way to keep the copper insulated during the poor and to increase the strength of the sand...Basically, do what you did before, but then attach a foam pour spout and a couple of vents to the gear foam. Then place the other half of your sand box on and fill with green sand so that just the top of the pour spout and vents are sticking out. This way, you can just pour into the one spout and let the heat vent out the vents, the copper is insulated through the entire pouring process and the sand is no longer cantilevered as it is supported on both the top and bottom. It will also prevent the top side of the gear from bubbling up...anyway, just a thought; it may work better this way.
We all miss you, you're always the KING OF RANDOM
Just because you bought 60 dollars of copper pipe doesn't mean there is 60 dollars worth of copper.......
JB Kaufman yup, and copper pipe is more expensive than copper wire, which is still nowhere near the value of copper. He needs to buy/find scrap copper or buy a few ingots from ebay
Right... I was thinking the same thing. That's like $10 of copper maybe?
true, maybe buy it from a recycling plant or something like that... maybe ripping copper from an old house or something... there's cheaper copper out there, but you got to take the time to chase it out
Exactly.
B1CAlpha 001 ait that right
Grant you should add borax yo the copper while melting it, it will make everything easier and get better results
Roberto Contreras also skimming the slag off the top, helps with pitting.
It's something of a balancing act. Adding flux (borax) to the melt hurts the crucible.
Copper is heavy, man. It will shift any loose parts of the mold aside like they're nothing. You've seen it with the last casting - the pressure of the copper flowing in from all sides simply broke the loose sections apart and pushed them to the top. You'd need something like clay at the very least.
Lmao the sound of the smealter when it gets lit😂😂😂 sounds like snoring
Hey Grant you know if you speak nice things to melted copper it will work better.
The One??? That was savage
The One??? Oh Yeah You Made My Day
The One??? Exactly,
Like rice
yes, the explanation was necessary
Dmitri Korobchenko lmfao
It's the foam you're using, it melts slow but also leaves parts of itself behind which can make imperfections in the mold. Also the copper doesn't have time to flow all the way in and completely fill the areas where the foam is making imperfections as you know.
Universes he isn't using foam
he did actually say styrofoam in the video tho
he used housing insulation
Love these videos. Just wanted to say I think the problem was you were pouring it in too fast and that's what the trouble was. Very cool though. Amazing job on these videos
Hi! 2 years to late but I have an idea for the instability of your sand, the problem with moisture and green sand is that what gives its molding capabilities is the sand s friction I interacting with the water particles, thus supporting itself and able to give it shape. My thought is if you moisturize the sand, as well as as a layer of something with a higher melting point than the molten copper in the sand, (eg, particles of a heavy metal) you might get the retention you're looking for with those delicate intermediary pieces ^.^
Try sprinkling baby powder on top of styrofoam gear in place with the sand mold, then take a make-up brush, and lightly coat the surface, then remove the styrofoam gear from the sand mold, then pour the molten copper... (Your Welcome)
Like so, Grant can see...
BTW: my name is pronounced as (Al-ee-tan) or (Ali-tan)
Athithan Al-Eaten?
When I did sand castng (with silicon bronze), that worked for me.
That makes no sense, so you put baby powder on the Styrofoam that's in the mold, u coat the surface of said gear then you remove the gear? That would do nothing to the sand, only the Styrofoam. Ur basically just removing the gear with the baby powder, leaving just the untouched sand.
prebenkul no he said place baby powder after you remove the mold
At this point why don't you use a better molding technique
Mr. Guy yeah that's what I was thinking
Try clay kitty litter bro
Also dont just pour it ontop. Make a green sand lid and pour it in
There is no Pouring Basin or sprue for your cast, if you drop it in like that, you will destroy your sand mold only from dropping in your molten metal
yep he needs a cope and a drag plus his green sand looks like it does not have enough water in it.
Too much water in the clay.
It would explosed.
4:08 Omg how you said "rippin' hot!"
Only watched this once but feels like I've watched it a million times.
Man these things really don't copper-rate
Anson Lim ...
Just no
smh!
You should probably just go, dammit
Dun dun ditch
if your going to cast copper in green sand you should use more clay in your mixture and bake it first
the additional clay creates a slightly denser mold and baking it reduces moisture and solidifies the mold
TheOtakuChicago I agree that what's I said
Sorry I didn't see your comment otherwise I would have +1ed it
I have 0 experience with metal casting as a whole but I remembered him saying something about the moisture in the sand being too low being a problem? Err...maybe the crucible evaporated the moisture in the green sand, causing the third failure where the sand got dislodged?
Grant was thinking in terms of sand castles where wet sand is more solid than dry. But the moisture will evaporate on contact with the molten metal and cause lot's of bubbles.
Otaku is saying add more clay and bake it so it becomes more like pottery. solid, dry
You mentioned you thought it was cooling too fast, try doubling the distance between the mold snd the outer frame all directions. Pour the copper through metal tubes to mold. A little more clay to bind sand.
Could you try pouring more slowly, and reheating the copper when it gets too cool? That would solve the problem of the notches floating. They're being torn away by the current in the pour. The slower the pour the less current. I don't know if copper will meld or make layers, but it would be fun to find out.
You should use casting sand
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Pennies aren't solid copper there's another metal inside
bentonite or oilsand ;)
or maybe mix sand and glue can work
Hannah Elson penny have zinc inside of penny as a copper.
Use casting sand then pull out the gear, then heat the mold before pouring. Top is going to be "domed" due to surface tension. Make a 2 part mold with vents to make a perfect cast.
I was gonna mention he should try to make a fully enclosed mold with vents and a center post to pour into.
Ur so smart
Yep school metal work at age 13. A two part mold will hold the inner parts better. Make the first mold as you did, add an entry object such as a pipe, and then box it up for the top. Remove the entry object, pour down the hole.
Yep. That is how they do it at Urick Foundry in Erie PA. They mold stuff for Rigid Tools.
Hi
tkor then: we melted copper and steel
tkor now: can we extract peanut butter?
You need to do the mold exactly as is then get another solid mold on top of it with just sand so it's closed in the middle. Then lastly a hole to lead to the mold itself in the compacted top sand. That insures the best possible molding
Grant, in order to do this successfully you must eat the sand.
Hey Grant, try making the water slightly hotter, and then put it in the oven or something to heat up the mold a little bit. Then it would take less heat from the copper, so the copper could flow more easily. Also, try making a channel away from the main gear for the copper to flow down, then it might not push the sand over as easily.
Ytrbpt Hsbom his sand is NOT for casting, a channel would just break his mold, he needs to get proper sand or rather clay,
Would a Silicon Carbide or Clay Graphite crucible be better for my application? I'm using it for melting copper in a charcoal foundry. I used a silicon carbide for one melt and it worked great, the crucible had an insane amount of glaze on it but I wasn't bothered by it. Though, last night I fired up my foundry again and had the crucible fail and pour molten copper all over the bottom of my foundry.
The way I have done it is to use a two part mold riddling the sand mixed with a bit of oil as a binder and tamping it around the object to be cast. Use a mold release like talc between the two layers. Join the two halves and riddle sand over the first half. Then separate the halves carefully an remove the item to be cast and sprinkle graphite into the mold and carefully create a funnel shape sprue (pour opening) and several small channels to the outside to allow gases to escape. Rejoin the mold halves and clamp. Pour molten metal into the mold thru the sprue hole and let it cool. When cool, separate the mold and clean your casting.