Mini lathe add-ons and upgrades
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2022
- *** UPDATE!! ***
I have a new video that shows updates to the tailstock and carriage DROs: • Mini Lathe DRO update
also this video is about motorizing the carriage: • Motorizing the carriag...
*** UPDATE!! ***
Please consider supporting me on Patreon:
/ guymarsden
These are all the tweaks, improvements and upgrades I have done to my cheapo C3 mini lathe. The links to many of the parts are below:
I have learned a lot from TH-cam - especially from Quinn of Blondihacks:
/ @blondihacks
She has an excellent series of tutorials for beginners and demonstrates many clever tools and techniques.
Little Machine Shop - great source for all mini lathe and mill parts and accessories:
www.littlemachineshop.com/
Handwheel DRO for cross slides and tail stock from Little Machine Shop:
www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...
Other places may sell this cheaper, it's a generic product.
My machining play list:
• Machining
Below are my Amazon Affiliate links (I get a small share of the sale)
Tools I own, use in my videos and recommend (as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)
3pcs 3/8"/10mm Shank Indexable Carbide Lathe Turning Tools Insert Holder Bit Set: amzn.to/3CS95nK
5Pcs 3/8" Inch Indexable Carbide Insert cutters with TCMT110204 Carbide Inserts: amzn.to/3WeZmyW
1/2" Carbide Square End Mill 4 flute:amzn.to/3H6G36v
ROUND BAR CENTER FINDER: amzn.to/3kg3t09
2" diameter Indexable End Mill with 3 - Tpg32 Carbide Inserts, 3/4" Straight Shank: amzn.to/3GNLbuH
Ball Turning Attachment For 7 x 14 / 7x16 Mini Lathe: amzn.to/3ZDscf3
2" Boring Head R8 Shank 1/2" Carbide Boring Bar Set: amzn.to/3J1wGpQ
Keyless 1/32"- 5/8" Drill Chuck with R8 Shank Adapter: amzn.to/3CTUetb
3 Spring Caliper set 8" / 200mm - Inside/Outside/Divider: amzn.to/3H79nts
Sewing Machine Light LED Light with flex gooseneck: amzn.to/3XyhHrv
Deburring Wheel, Nylon Fiber Buffing Polishing Wheel 6 inch 9P Hardness: amzn.to/3XlIzLN
Thrust Needle Roller Bearing with Two Washers 1/2" (for mill spindle nut): amzn.to/3CS65bg
Metric M42 8% Cobalt Twist Drill Bits Set for Stainless Steel and Hard Metal (1mm-10mm/19pcs): amzn.to/3HjquIV
Shars DRO for mini-lathe Z-axis (carriage) position. (You can cut down the 24" capacitive scale - it's aluminum.): amzn.to/3fjOfFw
Digital tachometer: amzn.to/3UePGUg - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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It's always nice to see other people's setups and see how they do things. Great looking stuff you got going on!
I was not expecting such good ideas! You caught me with the thrust bearing addition. It's cool to see that real work can be done on these little things. Thanks for posting, I'm saving this for ideas for sure.
I'm glad you found my ideas helpful. You might want to explore some of my other videos about machine upgrades.
Very good video! It doesn't sound like you new to machine shop tools. You have given me many new ideas and it's good to hear you mention Little Machine shop, I have used them in the past with good results!
Great stuff, I enjoy seeing what others learn, as I learn myself.
Learning the machine is half the fun..
And the other half is improving it! 🙂
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Couldn't agree with you more.
Wow, Some real nice up grades. I'm in the process of a Mini Machine Shop Build and most likely will do some of the modifications I seen on your channel. Thank You for all the great info.
I'm glad my video was helpful for you.
Guy, I stumbled upon your video while researching mini lathes. I must say I'm quite impressed on what you've done with the machine. I can't wait to get one for myself.
Welcome aboard! And check out my latest tip about the cross slide wipers.
Great video i love all the changes youve made !
Thank you for the walkthrough; your riser is particularly intriguing.
Thanks, I did the same thing for my Mini Mill (did you see that video also?). Having these tools on rolling tool chests makes it easy to set them up in different places in my workshop as needed.
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Great! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks, man! Great video! I just ordered my mini-lathe. I'm looking forward to getting it all setup. I will be saving this video. Thanks again.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Guy. Thank you.
Thank you. I like your approach and you have had many useful ideas
Nice explanation video. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. Liked and subscribed.
Much appreciated!
Very clever tips. Thanks a lot!
Brilliant mods! 👍👍
Outstanding, thanks for sharing!
Great ideas, thanks for sharing Guy.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing. Very nice updates to make your lathe your own. Enjoyed.👍👀
Thanks 👍
Great video, looks like you have made some nice upgrades to that little lathe. Really interested in those DRO's and I might have to look into them. Look much easier to install than the glass scale ones. Cheers
Yes, they are an easy and simple add-on and they work extremely well.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Looking at installing a tacho and carriage DRO on my Wabeco lathe, good to see your examples. Nicely done.
@@bmacpher Thanks! 😀 I'm glad my video was helpful.
I rarely listen to every word on videos on TH-cam, Very educational easy to listen to and very well presented, I love your work sir and I’m sorry to hear about the challenge you wife faces.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed my video. My EX-wife is handling her various health issues quite well and we chat every few days.
those cross ad cmpound slide DRO look well handly -sadly we dont have a minilathe store in New Zealand selling such things
Outstanding job
Thanks! Hope you found some helpful info.
Dear Guy, thank you for such a great inspiration. Good luck for you and your wife from Poland!
My pleasure!
Very informative, thank you
really cool stuff. great job
Thanks!
Very good presentation. Thanks.
I hope you learn something useful!
Great, great and GREAT, thank you for sharing!
what a great setup.
Thanks, did you see my latest follow-up video?
th-cam.com/video/6P6UxirNLQU/w-d-xo.html
Great ideas. Thanks for sharing
I'm glad you found my video helpful!
Thank you very much for this video, help me out to decide wich learning path to take , Greetings from Central America Costa Rica !!!
Thanks Rodolfo, the learning never ends!
Very well explained !
Glad you think so!
I have a lathe like that, and I like your ideas. Thanks for sharing them! I would like to get some of those DROs and I intend to make the carriage lock and some of your other improvements.
I'm glad to hear that I have inspired you to improve your life!
Very good job !!! I also have a similar chinese lathe, a metric one ( i'm from Italy ), i bought it ten years ago and more ... i had to desmontle and reassemble almost all ( as you did ) as the machine was in very poor condition, loosen screws that - when locked - were making problems ... they were left loosen intentionally ...
I also had some problems, internal gears with broken teeth, they were plastic !!! ; and, no having at that time any idea were get spare parts, i had to rework ( with high speed of the lathe still functioning ) 4 gears of module 2 , teeth 33 and 13 for lower speed, and 23 and again 23 for higher speed ...
Also the control box was recently broken ( not the electronic itself ! ) and i re-arranged all in a plastic box for electronic projects, fixed to the lathe with four exagonal bolts ... now all is ok, i got spare parts of almost all the machine.
I can do ( i'm an hobbyst with the lathe ) many usefull works, the more important was a conversion of a KT 150 cross table Proxxon from metric to inches, so to easily drill printed circuit board of my ( poor ) design ... and to do so, i got and fixed on the left of the lathe one big 127 teeth gear ...
Thanks.
I have removed the gears in my machine since I motorized the carriage drive screw with a variable speed DC motor, see my video about that here:
th-cam.com/video/B18NLCKUYK0/w-d-xo.html
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Nice work
Awesome, thank you!
That was great, I went down the same purchasing path as you and decided on the cheapest minilathe, again because I had seen everyone seems to disassemble them , clean/deburr/tune them up and put them together again. Like you say, the process is kind of valuable, if for no other reason than you get to see how all the parts connect together. I also went with a similar model to yours, mainly because it has a 14mm hex nut on the lead screw, I used this to add a stepper motor drive to drive the carriage (I basically removed the gears on mine, they make too much noise and I can't see myself threading stuff for a while). I also liked the projects you started with, the interference fit containers will be something I try. Thanks
Great minds think alike David! I have seriously considered doing what you did and putting a stepper on the lead screw. If I do, I will do a detailed video about it for everyone else. In the meantime would you like to share what stepper motor you used? Do you use a geared one? I can handle all the drive electronics it was the stepper motor specification that is critical for this isn't it.
The added feature of a stepper motor is you could do a simple CNC control function to program it to go a specific distance with a little code writing.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff This is the playlist of my adventures with the mini-lathe. The end of part 4 shows the stepper motor being used for some turning. th-cam.com/play/PLmfc7XNirQoyz5tOgo8v_bP1XDOJsSHRt.html You are right about needing a geared motor, I started out with a Nema 17 motor but it was just on the limit for torque, so I swapped to a 14:1 geared Nema 17, that seems to have plenty of torque and I didn't want a bigger motor like a Nema 23. I was thinking of adding some sort of distance logic as well (Basically to go back an forth over the same distance when turning), but need to practice with the lathe a bit more to decide if I would use something like that.
@@mysomervda AWESOME! Thanks, I will review all your videos and make my own version.
@@mysomervda Very helpful - thanks! I'm definitely going to dig in to this some time in the next month or so. Thanks for your detailed videos!
You might want to checkout Clough42 on TH-cam- he has a very informative series on the how and why’s of using an electronic Leadscrew Stepper motors, with a bench top lathe… I managed to modify and upgrade a precision Levin instrument lathe to be able to program and cut imperial and metric threads -both internal/external and left/right handed….additionally feed rates can be programmed .001/rev and up.
I have a 8x16 MX-210 that I bought new for $800 and it to was all a mess when it got here .. ended up paying $500 and have since done so many improvements, and have a 3-4 & 6 jaw chucks for any type of work .. I love the light.. I will buy one for sure !
I have those lights on all my machines now; mill, lathe, drill press. They're great 🙂
Bravo belle machine un coucou de France
Hi Guy, I took your advice and got the "Magnetic gooseneck light".
They're fantastic and so is the price. Highly recommend.
Glad to hear it! I guess that makes me a TH-cam influencer now! 👍😀
Love the mods! I'm running an Atlas 6" lathe and several years ago converted to the OXA tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I'll be doing the thrust washer mod. Sweet tach install and those Handwheel DROs rock! Your link for the Gooseneck light no longer works. I see the manufacturer is EVISWIY, but not available in black.
I'm glad my video was helpful! I have updated the link for the gooseneck light, they still have them! I suspect that I have influenced quite a number of purchases of those cool little lights, there an extraordinarily good deal.
I like the carriage lock. Very minimal yet effective without really needing to bury holes in the lathe
Thanks. It is simple but sometimes the lever falls out of the cap screw at inopportune times. And also it limits travel of the saddle. So someday I may do a different version like other people have where it is outboard of the saddle.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuffwhere can an example of this outboard saddle lock you are referring to be found? are there any links? thank you
@@I.H.D135 littlemachineshop have one that bolts onto the saddle:
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2977&category=
thank you very much!
I hope you found some helpful and useful ideas.
That was cool. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Very inspiring ! I have a mini lathe and would like to make some improvements . The only thing I have done of any significant was to crown the barrel of a 22 cal. rifle . Enjoy your channel !
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I'm glad to have inspired you. I don't do guns, but I hear that these lathes are used for that.
Great video !!!! Thanks
Thanks! I have lots of other videos about tool tips for the mini mill and lathe on my channel.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Gracias. Regards from Mexico
Very interesting.
I hope you found my video helpful or useful.
Still waiting for my new lathe to be delivered to trying to learn as much as I can thank you for the info sir
Jag har en svarv och fräs från 1985.
Det är en hobby mat. Som aldrig någonsin fått någon kärlek.
Det är min pappas fd svarv.
Pappa ansåg att sådant behöver ingen kärlek.
Jag tänker gå igenom hela svarven och fräsen för dessa ska kunna bli så användbara som möjligt.
Byta chock till 4 back blir nog det första steget.
I love the D.r.o. on the handles. You should make a video on how to install it and get the play out. I have it in stalling it just fine. Just the crosslide dro has a small .011 play. I find where it's coming from. Love to send you a video. Maybe you have an idea on what to do. Love the videos. Keep good work coming.
Noel
Thanks! I might do a video about installing those DROs. I'm more focused on new things than what I did before I started my TH-cam videos, but I'll consider going back over stuff like that,
Hello Guy. Great video and mods. I just got the exact same lathe. As time permits, I will be doing these same mods.. I actually bought the same hall proximity rpm sensor and was wondering if I could install it in the front cover to electronics box and saw you did exactly that! Thanks for posting👍
Take your time getting this machine dialed in, as I mentioned it took me an entire week. Everything that needs to move will need adjustment, tweaking and filing off sharp edges and rough surfaces.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff You got that right! I've already completely disassembled the entire machine and ultrasonic cleaned every last screw/part.. I was amazed at how many small metal particles and pieces of assembly debris and foreign material there was. Yet in some ways it's very satisfying to clean and throw some redesigning at it. I'm a mechanical designer by profession and luckily have full access to an old Hardinge lathe and Bridgeport milll so should be able to produce some quality upgrades to help dial her in. Once again thanks for your video, I thoroughly enjoyed it👍
@@greg20152015 yes, it's a great way to get to know your machine. And you may be using your Bridgeport mill to tidy up and resurface the ways on the cross slides. They are really rough aren't they!
Your magnet really sketches me out my dude.
It must be my magnetic personality! :)
Certainly some interesting stuff. Beside the head bearings replacement they are nice tricks. My best advice is to REMOVE the electrical cabinet from the place where it stands. In some case it comes in the way but mainly because it's much more convenient to have a separate remote electrical cabinet. It will allow for any electronics addons or repair much more easily...
Great point!
I’m so glad I took my friend’s advice & not go this direction in buying a machine. I purchased a New 🇺🇸 built & backed Sherline Mill & Lathe. 🤩
Yeah, but you missed all the "fun" of improving Chinesium. 😁
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Trust me I'm getting plenty of that with my x2 3D printers...both made in 🇨🇳😉😁
3:47, that is called a "hall effect sensor".
Yup, knew that, I'm an electrical engineer and use them all the time.
2 mods I've recently done that has completely changed the capabilities of my mini lathe is the 16" bed extension kit and the cross slide travel extension kit both from little machine shop. The bed extension kit is a bit pricey and requires some fabrication to install but the added length is way worth the time and money. It's way cheaper then buying a 7x16 lathe. Several hundred dollars cheaper as matter of fact
WOW! I was not aware of those options! I know the LMS site well and order from them often. Thanks for the suggestions!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff the bed extension kit is often sold out and on back order so if your interested in it then try and check their website daily because they sell out really fast for some reason but yeah, the added capacity it gives you really is worth every penny. Its listed as a 16 inch bed extension for some reason but in reality it's closer to 18 inches. Definitely the best mod I've done. The crosslide extension kit gives about an inch and a half of extra travel which makes life so much easier when turning larger diameter pieces
@@tylerhogg2241 I am actually more interested in the cross slide extension and signed up to be notified when they have that in stock for my machine. Thanks again for the suggestion!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff awesome, I'll be waiting for a video of your installation!
U
Very nice video, thank you! Do you find any loss in rigidity from the wood mount / travel drawers?
Not at all, in fact I think it stiffens up the whole bed because it's mounted to big 1/4" aluminum plates on top of the MDF riser. Sure, the tool chest shifts around a little bit when I use it, but the lathe itself is solid.
Brilliant thanks :-)
You're welcome!
Great works around the lathe! Now i got some good new ideas.... and a new channel! SUB here...
Cheers
Hi Guy, just subbed. Do you have plans for changing the headstock bearings? I did in mine and it is a measurable difference and worth doing.
Cheers
Thanks for the sub. I don't have immediate plans to change the bearings. It looks like a daunting project and I don't have a gear puller. So far I'm doing okay without it but one day I will hit the wall and tackle bearings I guess.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff it's actually quite easy to remove, and not daunting at all. Steve Summers and This Old Tony both have great vids on the topic. I followed the method that Steve used and sized the shaft an mdf lap that I made, super easy.
Cheers
Your improvements are absolutely fantastic! Congratulations.
Could you tell me the specific name for these DROs attached to the handles?
Regards
Thanks! :)
They are from Little Machine Shop:
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=5675
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff very thank you!
I just got my first mini lathe and I traded a compressor that I got for free for the lathe lol it's from 1986 but it's an American made lathe and just needs some maintenance and a good lube job
It sounds like you've got some work cut out for you getting that thing fixed up. There's a rule of thumb that if you buy a machine tool like a lathe or Mill you're going to spend as much on tooling. But in your case you're going to be spending a heck of a lot more on tooling!
Use the original tool post locking lever on the new tool post it makes it a lot easier than having to use a wrench. It was the same thread, at least on mine it was.
Neat idea! Hadn't thought of that. I went and tried that on my lathe and didn't like the way the handle stuck out over the lathe bed obscuring my line of sight.
How do those DROs on the cross slide and top slide know when the position is changed? Lots of good ideas here!
They read the rotational position of the handle. As long as you always turn them the right direction they are pretty darned accurate. I got them from Little machine shop, Link in the description below.
Thank you Sir for giving me more hope In
mall lathe
I really wanted the combo lathe drill mill HQ500 price is R40000.00 which I dont haave that kind of money . SO mu next best is a minie lathe R100000.00
Glad I could help you make a decision. Have fun with it!
Guy I love your video and I will be modding my mini lathe which is arriving today. So I also subscribed. However you have made a mistake when you are talking about the small DRO’s. The DRO that you have installed on the bed is measuring actual position. The other 3 including the tail stock one are measuring rotation of their appropriate lead screws, NOT actual position. They use rotary encoders which are housed in those black plastic boxes you have mounted behind the hand wheels. They are very accurate but they are not really measuring the position of those slides like the big one is doing. The only way to measure actual position is to have something mounted on the individual slides tracking it’s position relative to their bases. I have similar rotary ones on my Sherline mill and they are extremely accurate and repeatable.
I can’t wait to watch more of your videos.
You are right, and not the first person to correct me on this. They are extremely accurate and repeatable so long as you always turn them in the right direction as you're coming into the workpiece.
Hi Guy, how are the factory cross and top slide handles secured in place? I tried unscrewing them in the vice and all I succeeded in doing is gouging the chrome and now they're worse than ever 😞
On my machine I just remove the screw in the center of the handle and the handle just pops right off.
جميل جداً
Do magnets have any affects on electronics like the speed control board.
No, magnets have absolutely no effect on electronics. I'm an electrical engineer, and a magnetics expert so I should know! :)
Those DRO-s you have are great. I have a SHERLINE 4100 and went to LITTLE MACHINE SHOP to locate the same bits. Unfortunately the various DRO-s do not identify compatibility. How did you identify what bits you have installed from LMS were compatible for your particular Lathe? Thanks in advance. 😊
My lathe is a standard Sieg C3, so those parts fit perfectly. However I've become very disillusioned with those DROs because they are flaky and don't measure actual position just the rotational position of the handles. I'm in the process of replacing them with linear magnetic readouts.
@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks so very much for the heads up!
Best Wishes......
I don't know if you misspoke but those handle dro's do not go off of absolute positioning and do in fact work off of the hand wheel position which means that slop is a factor in the readout...just means you have to do all your cutting operations zeroed from touch off in one direction only as soon as you back it off you can't trust it
ask me how I know
Yes, I guess I did miss speak about that. I routinely zero the DROs after touching off and only work in one direction from that point on.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff no worries we all muck up now an again, when I got started I actually thought that having handwheel DRO's would be a lot better and in the sense that you can zero and scale it and it's easier to read it is but sadly no more accurate after taking one apart and realizing how it worked.
What you could do is get some cheapish digital calipers and mount them to the cross slide (and compound if you want) as long as you get the parallelism as near as damn it you could have a .01mm readout that is reasonably accurate...you could even mount one on the tailstock and have the display horizontal so it's even easier to read that way you've only gotta touch off each axis once and you're all good.
@@nauroticdax as a hobby machinist, I'm finding the hand wheels quite sufficient for my needs. I find the idea of mounting calipers just too messy and awkward so I'm not planning to go there.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff fair enough if it works for you stick with it
Agree. The rotational dro’s do not help with the backlash (slop) and are pricey. They are still much better than using the hand wheel scales. I bit the bullet and installed linear dros and no longer have to manage backlash. While it does require a bit more effort, you only have to do it once. Also, if the linear scales go bad, replacement is simple and low cost since the fixtures can be reused. I do use a rotational dro on the tailstock quill primarily to control hole depth (less critical tolerances in my applications).
friend, what is the name of the accessory that you put on the hand wheels that you measure in digital or how can I find it to buy it?
The hand wheel DRO link is in the video description! It comes from Little Machine Shop and other suppliers too.
Great video. Thanks.
I really like the idea of putting the lathe on top of a toolbox.....this may be the idea that lets me justify a lathe. Ha ha.
Glad it was helpful!
You may find this video helpful too: th-cam.com/video/AkDOkP_Zj_o/w-d-xo.html
Hi ! Geat video ! I want tool locking lever but i dont have ideea the model and sise . . Please if posible send to my link for this tool ? Thanks !
Not sure what you mean by a tool locking lever. If you mean the red handled locking lever I used for the carriage, that is just a cut down hex wrench that drops into a cap screw.
excellent
any recommendation for buying mini lathe?
As I mentioned in the video, I bought the cheapest one I could possibly get ($460.00) and then spent a week getting it all dialed in. But if you have disposable income then get one from Little Machine Shop or any other reputable brand.
I always just assumed the cheaper lathes wouldn't be worth even fixing up. But maybe that's not the case. It gives hope for people like me that never got to use one.
yes, these are great little machines if you just invest the time in getting them all dialed in! I have made tons of cool stuff with it over the last year or so.
Are you sure the hand wheel DROs are measuring actual slide movement and not hand wheel rotation? A quick test would be to exercise the compound slide play without turning the wheel and verify it is registering on the DRO. The only DROs I've seen that mount to the hand wheel like that, measure the shaft rotation. But I have been wrong before and I'm sure I will be again. ;)
Thanks for noticing my verbal goof! You're right - it's the lead screw rotation and not actual position. But like with any handwheel, you need to take up slack and always set up fro the same rotational direction for accuracy. Thanks for noticing!
I had recently bought the older version of those cross slide DRO's from a guy. They do not measure the actual movement, but rather measure the handwheel position, which is a pain. Are these units somehow different? I cannot see how they would be.
Yes, I misspoke in the video. But as long as you're always turning them in the same direction to get a measurement that you need they work great for me.
Is there a 4 jaw chuck that fits this lathe?
Yes, I got mine from Little Machine Shop. They have a broad selection of them and you have to be careful to get the right one.
hello!very nice video!!! pls link for dro ? i don't fount on amazon! :P tnx
Touchdro.com
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Which parts did you choose? Have you had any issues? A Z axis DRO is something I'd really like to add to my lathe.
I just updated the links in the description - hope this helps!
I wouldn’t think that MDF, being so soft, would provide adequate rigidity for a lathe support.
It's a strong box structure reinforced in all the corners with hardwood, and a hardwood 1x2 along the front bottom edge under the lathe. MDF is surprisingly strong when used appropriately, and is also somewhat good at vibration dampening.
Are you still using original motor and what size / power rating is it?
Yes I am, I don't really know the power rating but it is sufficient for my needs.
ill buy the old tool post. l did artisan makes AC motor mod. check it out
Sorry, I already scrapped out the old tool post for parts and making things out of the metal.
My next project is motorizing the carriage, keep an eye open for that video I'm using a powerful 24 volt DC motor.
What model lathe is ir?
It's a generic no-name brand. I paid about $460 for it a year or so ago. I searched eBay to find a good deal and got what I paid for!
very nice mods ! look i dont want to be the smartass, but when knurling u never use oil...the oil would colect the knurled off chipps and then the mixed chipoil will go direct into the knurled surface on the next revolution! sry my english is not perfect, i hope i explained it in a way u understand what i mean ! just use no oil on the part what u want to have knurled !
thats what we learned in our aprenticeship at Swarovski
Thanks for that suggestion. You are right, but you do need to oil the bearings inside the rollers with 30wt oil because they see a lot of force. So I will be aware to keep the oil off the knurling surfaces in future. Thanks again!
Oil should be for the roller/roller holder and roller shaft friction.
@@19mati67 yes, thanks to both of you, I didn't know that.
partner your way too organized...................other than that, I have that same 7x14 lathe in battle ship gray. aluminum cranks too and have ran into the usual problems the worst being the motor wants to start on its own and ya never know when, so I always take the chuck key out......prolly a speed control problem, also the famous belt problem!!! mine wore out and broke and they were impossible to find! so I tried grainger and they had something compriable but not the same but its been holding up.and yes that motor is weak and will bog down and strain if you push it..........I also bought some HS roller bearings and took them to a machine shop which they were unable to get the old ones out so I couldnt use them, you sure did some nice upgrades......
Thanks - I think, that was a compliment right? 😀
That's really frightening that your lathe starts by itself! I would be on that just all that right away. Yes, I struggled with finding the right belt too!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff yes compliment..........u did some good things to that chinese to tay chinese headache
how much
How much for what?
You certainly should never use your leadscrew nuts as a means of locking the saddle
I agree, I made a locking lever for the carriage. Not sure if that is shown in my video.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Can I sk what you intend to make with the lathe?
I have been making a ton of stuff on it! Check my machining playlist. Mostly brass, aluminum and Delrin, but also some steel parts.
th-cam.com/play/PLbms9GizN4aTLsOwolr5cuM2JtmTku12E.html
I am very interested in your new dro kit, l want to bay from long time this kit, and l don't finding in Europe, lf you are so caindly, you can sending me address of this seller?????
I listed all of the suppliers in the description. Unfortunately they are all in the US.
holly moly mini lathe that you spend 500 bucks on it but you have over 2k investment maybe even more of parts for it, and bit, i guess having a Lathe starting getting pretty pricey
Yes, but the cost is spread out over time and the whole process is very engaging.
If the glue fails that magnet will fly like a bullet
Well, it's been there for over 6 months! I'm thinking about drilling and tapping a 4-40 bolt and mounting a countersunk magnet instead though. Thanks for jogging me to do that.
And now you are now my drug dealer . Thanks
Be careful not to overdose! 😯🙂
That's it!, i turned this video off soon as i heard you go to drug dealers. I don't want a Mini lathe if i only can get stuff for my lathe from drug dealers!. Bang out of order!..... 8:12
😄😁😁😁 once you've found Little Machine Shop you're hooked!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Good you see my comment was a Joke, i got a min CNC desk top 4 axis. i am looking for a min lathe, you gave me an idea to mount it on a roll box that's a good idea bud even better all the tools are in one place. By the way i'm from the UK Heathrow sides....
@@markgomez3688
I'm actually English myself - it takes one to know one! Quirky humor is my favorite. I grew up along the river Tees in county Durham in the 1960s.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I'm a London man, in fact i left on holiday to Italy and got so depressed after two weeks i needed to get back to London. The sun and heat was killing me, i needed the rain dull days they are my favourite days by far.... Soon as i got back the dull overcast day revitalized my batteries and i felt much better, i don't bother going on Holiday abroad now, in 53 years only left two times....
Don't tell him inch is European
Ha! I'm actually English, grew up there, so I actually do know that. Was just trying to be funny.