I know this is an older video but I still wanted to comment regarding the little struggle you're having getting the unit into the bracket. I would suggest feeding back of the flash unit into the front of the bracket, instead of the front the the unit into the back of the bracket. Hope this helps any newcomers that may come along.
Ive just bought the AD200 with the AR accessories kit upograded from a Yongnuo YN560, Absolutely love this bit of kit loads of power and lovely light. Im just in the testing stage at the moment and Ive used it on 2 shoots already. I have a pixapro collapsible beauty dish and together with the bare bulb option and grid i get amazing light on my subjects, I was always a "natural light" photographer but ever since i started using more flash the upgrade to this fantastic unit was definitely worth the expense I paid around £420 on Amazon Im definitely getting a 2nd unit this year . . . .
On the modifier, all you have to is trim the rubber top and bottom. That leaves the edges intact. By doing this you’ll have no trouble getting the ad200 in and out with your jimmying the unit side to side. I have several of these flash holders. The how to was shown in a Robert Hall Video on you tube.
Love your set up, and your light on your subject, I do fine art portraiture so I have leeway for lighting but on my next shoot i'm trying this and I do use the AD200's
I like your three strip box setup..... great tutorial. The version of the 200 that I'm using purchased here in Canada is called Strobepro X200. A solid piece of kit for sure.
I'd not heard of that brand before. It doesn't matter what label is on it, it's a great unit! I just got the new round head attachment. Will be experimenting with that later.
Hi Ivan! Very good content👍. But why do you like this triangle lighting for headshots. Can you do another episode to show us more about this lighting setup. More details . Thank you🙏
Thanks. Glad you liked it. I like the triangle set up because it creates very soft, flattering light - getting plenty of light into the eyes and softening uneven skin without creating a flat image. There is a ton more content on this technique over at headshotcrew.com/
If you want to see more of this type of lighting configuration, one of the most famous headshot photographers, Peter Hurley, has lots of TH-cam vids using it.
Ivan, thank you so much for this. I'm new over at HSC and have been slightly overwhelmed with the thought that I need a $4k LED flex kit to get outstanding results. I now know for sure that with the purchase of a few strip softboxes and with my existing AD200's I can still get professional results. I'm sure I'm going to keep coming back to this video to reference. Question: At one point in the video I saw what looked like an AD300 on a stand off to the side. Was that used for this shoot? Love your content, again thanks.
You can certainly start, and achieve great results, without spending huge amounts. As you progress and start to book more work, you'll know where/how you want to invest your money. That extra light is probably one of Peter's ProFoto strobes - the AD300 didn't exist back when we filmed this :). It was not used on this shoot.
If you have the Godox S2 Bracket S-Type, you can also remove the lower rubber piece, which should help you to remove/insert the AD200 Pro a lot easier.
I put the rear end through the S2 bracket to mount it from what is the side that becomes the interior of the modifier. The knob won’t interfere with the opening in the bracket.
This is the second time I've watched this video and enjoyed it (again). I also use Godox AD200 Pro strobes and find them very useful for various types of shoots. Watching this time brought a couple of questions to mind. 1. You mentioned you shot your subject (Barbara) with an 85mm 1.4 lens. Is that a Canon lens? if so, is it "L" glass? 2. It appears you're using 1 ft x 4 ft softboxes. Please confirm or correct my observation. Thanks for the video and I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks in advance...
Hi Kenneth. Glad you enjoyed the video again. Yes, here I am using a Canon EF 85mm ƒ/1.4L IS. The softboxes by Rotalux/Elinchrom are sometimes listed as 1' x 3', sometimes 30cm x 90cm, and sometimes 35cm x 100cm. As I understand it, the size of the softbox has never changed, but the manufacturer's description is different depending on which country it is sold in. Any softbox of more or less those dimensions is usable for this type of set up.
Thanks for the video Ivan. Have you tried these little lights as white background flashes ? Maybe then we dont need to bigger unit that you have used in this video?
@@IvanWeiss-london I'am working in studio, renting/courses etc. The ways ways how people can damage bulb are cretive. One of most creative is putting plastic cover on very hot bulb:D Didn't mean to insult or anything, but when I saw how you put the softbox on....:)
@@gorankaticfotograf It's a fair point. Those of us who work alone only have a responsibility to ourselves. But studios who employ assistants have an obligation to teach and follow best practices with regard to safety.
Hi Ivan. Thank you for your video. It's been really helpful. I am looking to replicate this to some degree. I have the Godox AD200 pro and the S2 bracket. Which speedring should I get for my Elinchrom softboxes? The Elinchrom website suggests...Rotalux Speedring for S-mount/Bowens EL26554. Does that sound right to you?
That depends which S2 bracket you have. The most common version is the Bowens mount. In this video I am using the version with Elinchrom mount. If you're not sure, do a google image search - they look very different, so you will be able to identify which one you have and can then buy the speedring that matches with your bracket.
@@IvanWeiss-london Ah, I see! That's what confused me...I thought all Godox S2 brackets came with the Bowens mount. I'll double check what I have on order. Thanks so much for your help. Best wishes, Chris
Indeed it can! As can any strip soft box! Also very useful for evenly lighting a back ground (one on either side at 45 degrees) and lighting bottles, etc.
Great Video!. I just attended the headshot intensive in April and have been considering strip boxes and these AD200's since I can't justify spending the money on the flex kit yet. I'm glad to know this set up works because it's exactly what I was looking at, though I was thinking about 2 AD200's and 1 AD400 so that I had something a bit more powerful if I want to go out doors. Is the 100cm's too long for the strip boxes? the flex kit is around 60cm's. Also, what boom arms are you using? Thanks!
An AD400 is a good option. Or you could look at the double adapter for 2 x AD200 if you mainly shoot indoors and want that extra bit of power occasionally. The 100cm strips are slightly longer and wider than the large Flex Kit panels from Westcott, but it is a small difference and doesn't affect how useable they are in this configuration. The main advantage of the Rotalux design, compared to other strip boxes, is that they are shallow, so you can overlap them to get them really close together. The stands and booms in this video are Peter's. In my studio I use a short boom arm that I made by taking the top riser section from an old stand and putting it into a pivot clamp. You can use anything - a broom handle with a superclamp will do the job.
For use inside a softbox, I recommend the bare bulb head. The new round head is great if you're bouncing off a wall or lighting directly with no modifier. It's another accessory that makes the AD200 a really versatile bit of kit.
Thanks for the quick reply :) I’m trying to figure out a good Octobox for studio. I had the Paul c buff one but it broke finally. And to be honest it was a beast prefer smaller things now that can achieve similar qualities.
Great first video. More to come I hope. It does seem strange that you are using Rotalux modifiers rather than Bowen mount modifiers that seems to be better for the Godox ecosystem. You must have used Elinchroms previously?
That's exactly it - my first set of studio lights was an Elinchrom kit, so I started out with that system. I still use Elinchrom lights sometimes because I like the integrated deflector plate system.
Thank you for this video. I've been dialing in my headshot photography and have landed on the triangle set up as a go to for headshots with great results (I think). It has been almost two years since you made this video. Looking back on it, are there any addendums you might add for anyone working on this set up in 2020? Thanks,
@@IvanWeiss-london It would be great to see your set up and what continuous lights you use..........I noticed some images are shot with a very shallow dof....would continuous lighting make this easier?
@@seanconcannon7922 Continuous light is my preference. It makes it easier to shoot shallow DoF as there is no limitation on sync speed. So you can shoot wide open at ƒ/1.2 and compensate with a shutter speed of 1/1000sec.
Do you notice any flare/low contrast in camera when shooting straight through the feathered light coming from the other side of the rotaluxes? Or is the falloff enough to make it weak when it reaches the lens? I've seen some clamshell alternatives with both key and fill pointed towards eachother (floor and roof direction) and always wondered about flare towards camera. Obviously your images turned out great so...I guess not a problem.
Hey there, i was wondering about your backdrop, i have seen similar in big studios but it looks like yours is a permanent sloped wall? is that correct? Rather than a stand holding paper etc. could you explain what goes into installing one etc. Thanks so much, great video!
This video was shot at Peter Hurley's NYC studio. I would love to have a cyc wall in my studio but I'm not sure my landlord would agree. If you are handy at DIY, read this: www.dpmag.com/how-to/tip-of-the-week/easy-install-of-a-studio-cyc-wall/
Hey man! Very good video.. I did hear you say that you max your shutter at 1/200th? Those light are High Speed Sync capable, just curious why you don't utilize that? In my opinion that is the remarkable thing about these lights (which I own) Just curious Ivan!
That's a good point, Dylan. Shooting at ƒ/5.6, ISO100, 1/200sec is usually enough to avoid any problems with ambient light contamination. Using HSS introduces other issues like higher power consumption and less reliable colour and exposure consistency. In a controlled studio environment, I wouldn't recommend HSS unless you need it to facilitate very large apertures. But is is worth being aware of this option. And if you are outside in bright sunlight, HSS is fantastic.
@@IvanWeiss-london Gotcha! I'm doing a big commercial headshot session at location today and I may try those settings... Do most photographers do a higher F stop on headshots to keep everything sharp? How come the bokeh on the ears and back isn't attractive? Just some things I'm trying to figure out!
@@dylanstreet8566 It's a question of personal preference. For a commercial headshot I find the ultra-shallow depth of field style to be too stylised. But I also don't want to have everything in sharp focus as I want to direct attention to the eyes. ƒ/5.6 on an 85mm lens is the sweet spot for me.
when softboxes start to become more expensive than lights you know lights are going in the right direction. Do you have any suggestion for affordable softboxes to go with the lights?
Glow Parapop 28" and 38" but they will not hold up to hard use. They are less expensive because they are made with cheaper materials. If this is your business and you go from building to building doing headshots on location what he's using is probably the best quality to price ratio you're going to find.
Hi Ivan, Nice behind the scenes video on your light set-up. Very useful indeed. What is that light stand with the dolly and the grips in the foreground (camera right)? Looks like they make height adjustments of the strobes a breeze. Thank you!
That's a Manfrotto column stand with sliding arm: www.manfrotto.co.uk/column-stand - it does indeed make height adjustments very easy. You can operate it with one hand.
So long ago I can’t remember precisely. If it doesn’t say in the video, I’d guess at 1/200sec, ISO100, f/4. Power slightly lower on the bottom unit. All same channel but different groups.
A bit late to the party. I really like how you've set up your octobox lighting. Can I ask what those extensions that are holding the weights and light together. Feel like it will make my shoots less stressful by having them on hand and not having a massive boom to carry with me.
Are these really reliable, consistent colour, no over heating or weird issues because my "little voice" just doesn't trust them ? I have looked at these (and the pros as well) a bunch of times, great form factor and on paper specs and price but I can't stand nor afford misfires, issues, problems. I need my equipment to just work, all of the time. I would love to buy Godox but thus far I am making do with Canon 600EX-RTs with PB960 power packs and Bowens 400s (I have 500 and 1000 pros but use the 400s in my location kit to reduce size/weight). And am saving to buy Profoto B10s though it will take me a while as I need 5 lights for my location kit. I don't shoot head shoots and shoot approx 600 shots in 2/3 hours of quite heavy use at inside locations (no need for battery power).
Reliable? Yes. Consistent? Yes. No weird issues? Check. 600 shots on one charge? Easy. But to compare these 200Ws strobes to Bowens 400s or Profoto B10s (500Ws) is obviously not an apples to apples comparison. If you need that sort of power, either double up on AD200s (and still save money compared to the Profotos) or buy the AD400 or AD600 (and still save money compared to the Profotos). If, on the other hand, Canon 600EX-RTs are giving you sufficient output, the AD200s will make you very happy indeed.
Hi Ivan, can you teach us How to retouch the headshot ? How its the ratio between the 3 flashhead on the softboxes. And the 2 lamp head for the background? Best Regards.
For retouching, check out this channel: th-cam.com/channels/z4Lm4Pp8whcRWtJUzwcfGA.html I have the 2 upper lights set at the same power. The lower light, pointing upwards, is typically 2/3 stop lower powered. These are the setting on the lights themselves, not readings taken with a meter. I start my shoots with the 2 main lights on 1/32 power and the uplighter on 1/64+3, then adjust to taste based on the characteristics of the subject. The lights on the background are set to whatever is needed to get it just under pure white. I then push it in post. Hope that helps!
"open this thing as far as it'll go. Give it a little wiggle, and then in it goes" Are we still talking about the ad200? 😶🤣 Great review! I just bought one.
That's a good point. However, ƒ/5.6, ISO100, 1/200sec is usually enough to avoid any problems with ambient light contamination. Using HSS introduces other issues like higher power consumption and less reliable colour and exposure consistency. In a controlled studio environment, I wouldn't recommend HSS unless you need it to facilitate very large apertures. But is is worth being aware of this option.
Just found this looking to see if my AD200's were enough - I guess so! question with the triangle setup - the two side strips are they facing the subject or feathering the subject - hard to tell!
Hi Dale. Glad you like it. Catchlights are matter of personal taste. I concentrate on how the light shapes the face and I don't mind what shape it makes in the eye. Some people prefer to have a single, round catchlight to mimic the sun. Do you think anyone other than photographers notice these things?
Not too sure if they do Ivan, just noticed them on your website. Please don't take that as criticism, I've just never seem them in that shape (obviously from the feathering, which is producing excellent light). I also love those Elinchrom Strip boxes, they look so portable and relatively easy to set up. All in all, an excellent video, would love to see more.
@@dalesteven1 I find it a challenge sometimes to not look at those kinds of details. I've never had a non-photographer comment on the shape of catchlights. Despite me getting a bit tangled up in this video, the Elinchrom speedring design means that they are easy to set up. And they're very easy to transport. I usually stack them one inside the other by taking off the front diffuser.
Fantastic video and explanation of the lighting setup. Do you have an example of a setup for photographing men? I checked out your website and the lighting looks to be a bit moodier for men. Thanks!
You're right - I do a variation of this set up when I want more shadow/drama/mystery. It still uses the same three lights, just positioned differently. I hope I'll cover that in another video soon.
I would be quite interested to see what will happen if you take out all the lights and simply ask the model to face the window and do a headshot with natural light. Do we need all this equipment at all???
Of course you can shoot headshots with natural light. Plenty of people do just that. I prefer to use strobes so that I have control and repeatability - I can get the same result in any location, any room, any time of day, in any weather conditions.
Does feathering the light cause any issues with the contrast of the image by having stray light entering the lens from an angle? (The 85mm has a rather short lens hood)
That's a good question. I've never had a problem with it and I feather my lights all the time. Sometimes a lot more than this. I guess you just have to keep an eye out for it and keep your hood on. If it starts killing your contrast, back it off a bit, unless that's the effect you want.
Just got your video in my feed and enjoyed watching it. I have a question for you. In your client shoot you are using 3 lights and, I am not sure but modifiers look like the same but lights look different. It creates amazing results. Could you tell me more about this setup? Thanks again.
@@JasonRenoux You can definitely get similar results. If they are 60cm square, you will have a bit less control. But start with what you've got and you'll work out where you want to go next. If you want more help, check out headshotcrew.com
HI Hillary. Glad you liked it! The light stand is the Manfrotto 1051BAC - www.manfrotto.com/us-en/compact-photo-stand-mini-with-air-cushioning-1051bac/
I've never seen a setup for headshots like this before. The photographer cannot move around much at all and is shooting directly parallel to the subject. Thus no offset angles. This is mug shot style, which doesn't often work for many. So my question is, do you setup wider in this triangle format and do you have any samples/videos of a wider setup?
Hi Geert. Sure. I have the 2 upper lights set at the same power. The lower light, pointing upwards, is typically 2/3 stop lower powered. These are the setting on the lights themselves, not readings taken with a meter. I start my shoots with the 2 main lights on 1/32 power and the uplighter on 1/64+3, then adjust to taste based on the characteristics of the subject. Hope that helps!
I rarely shoot outdoors - I'm based in London :). I have the larger AD600 if I need more power to be able to work at greater distances. The new AD600 Pro looks very interesting, but I have the older version for now.
@@IvanWeiss-london Yes - I'm North West based - you've got a point. I'm thinking of downsizing my strobes because I never seem to use them anywhere near full power.
@@markshirley01 I've heard good things about the double bracket that allows you to create a 400W unit but without negatively affecting the impressive flash duration and recycle times. If 400W sounds like it would be enough power for the work you do, it's worth checking out.
@@IvanWeiss-london I didn't mean to be disrespectful so I hope you don't feel that way and I hope it didn't come off that way too ... I'll continue to watch what else you come out with ...
It's an extension arm and a grip head. Very useful things to have in a studio! www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3594-REG/Avenger_D520L_D520L_Extension_Arm.html www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838888-REG/Impact_kcp200b_Grip_Head_for_Lights.html
Godox S2 bracket will solve the fit issue. www.adorama.com/glbdsm02pro.html. Thanks for the video. I run the same setup with the godox/Flashpoint li-on speed lights and get the same results. I'm going to try the extreme feathering. Nice work!
It’s easy to lose the piece that comes out to make room for the larger lights. Not really a problem if you don’t need it for smaller speed lights. Other than that, it’s great and an improvement over the original.
Why are you hitting Barbara with the strip lights that are not flattering to her wrinkles? why not the larger soft box that will smooth skin further? Even with your 3 light triangular formation it is not a flattering light.
Larger modifiers give me less control over the z-axis contrast, which means a flatter image. I like to see a bit of depth. I don't find the light to be unflattering. I'm not attempting to remove wrinkles from a 70 year old face, I think that would look unnatural. You can have your own aesthetic and your own opinion on that. I'm just showing how I do what I do.
When buying the modifiers you can specify which mount you want. I use the Elinchrom mount but you can also get Bowens, Profoto, Broncolor, Alien Bees, etc.
No they don't if you are just starting out with softbox/stripbox/beauty dish lighting might i suggest getting Bowens mount modifiers or accessories, as it is the most commonly used & sold making the modifiers you can use cheaper!.
@@stephengatley1332 They do. Click the link above and you'll see the option to choose the speedring. Cost is always a consideration when buying photographic equipment. All things being equal, Bowens mount is the easiest and cheapest. If you have access to Elinchrom lights, you'll want to stick with the Elinchrom mount.
@@richmondke1805 In this video I am using 3 lights. If you want to do a 1-light portrait set up, the AD200 has more than enough power for that as well.
@@richmondke1805 I recommend the AD200, which is why I made this video. If you need more power than that, get the AD400 or AD600. They are all battery powered, so good for taking outside, and they all work with the same remote triggering system.
you said the lights are not pointing at her face? 5:12 you can see that two of them are pointed at her face.... both the bottom and the right one do not match what you said. Do you not think this gives a very flat lighting?
Hi Chaz. At 5:12 we are reviewing the images on the monitor. We're not in front of the lights at all. With regards to the flatness of the light, you can see the results. This is how I like to light my headshots, but of course you can choose to do it differently. I think my lighting style adds depth to the image due to the fall-off creating Z-axis contrast.
@@chazM6116 I have a slight astigmatism in my right eye, but other than that fairly good eyesight. I'd love to help you if you have a genuine question.
Funnily enough, the only people who ever mention the catchlights are other photographers. I think that non-photographers subconsciously accept that the eyes will reflect whatever is in front of them. They read the picture as a whole, and engage with the subject as a person. And that is exactly what I want. Of course, as photographers, we are trained to dissect the image and look at the individual details. This can sometimes lead to us not seeing the wood for the trees. Anyway, you can of course arrange your lights however you want. My preference is to prioritise the way the light shapes the face regardless of what shape catchlight it gives me.
@@USFreedom Sorry about the late reply.... but the difference is that Peter Hurley uses high level continuous light sources specifically to cause his subjects eye pupils to contract and be as small as possible. This allows him to use a similar three light setup but still allow the subjects pupils to show as naturally round. Also Peter Hurley usually separates his lights a bit more so the implied triangular shape is less obvious. Ivan's tight light spacing and his subjects large pupil size just results in a very obvious and unnatural triangular pupil illusion.
Thanks for you thoughtful comment, Rich. I hope the sound quality didn't interfere with your learning. And I hope you find the sound quality on my more recent videos to be better.
Thanks for the video Ivan. Have you tried these little lights as white background flashes ? Maybe then we dont need to bigger unit that you have used in this video?
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Thanks. I really appreciate the level of detail you went into when talking about feathering and why.
I know this is an older video but I still wanted to comment regarding the little struggle you're having getting the unit into the bracket. I would suggest feeding back of the flash unit into the front of the bracket, instead of the front the the unit into the back of the bracket. Hope this helps any newcomers that may come along.
Great work Ivan, you know you have started something here and have to make more for us all!
Glad you like it! There's another video on the way in January. Stay tuned!
Thanks. I really appreciate the level of detail you went into go dox units on my santa list
I hope you've been a good boy this year!
Ivan Thank you for your video on your studio set up & tips like the godox,slowly building my humble kit . Regards John
Ive just bought the AD200 with the AR accessories kit upograded from a Yongnuo YN560, Absolutely love this bit of kit loads of power and lovely light. Im just in the testing stage at the moment and Ive used it on 2 shoots already.
I have a pixapro collapsible beauty dish and together with the bare bulb option and grid i get amazing light on my subjects, I was always a "natural light" photographer but ever since i started using more flash the upgrade to this fantastic unit was definitely worth the expense I paid around £420 on Amazon
Im definitely getting a 2nd unit this year . . . .
The AD200 is still my go to strobe
Wonderful ! I enjoyed your explaining...☺
I Love that unit! Small but Powerful... great video!
I haven't met a single person who doesn't love the AD200.
What a great well explained video. You now have a new subscriber!
This is a great video! Keep posting
Thanks for the support!
Very nice tutorial, I love it. I Also use AD200 for outdoor all the time, keep it, for more lighting contents!
It seems everyone who buys an AD200 loves it. They are great units.
This is great. Thank you so much
Glad you enjoyed it!
Please do some more. Great work
On the modifier, all you have to is trim the rubber top and bottom. That leaves the edges intact. By doing this you’ll have no trouble getting the ad200 in and out with your jimmying the unit side to side. I have several of these flash holders. The how to was shown in a Robert Hall Video on you tube.
Good suggestion! I'll check out the video.
Great tips and beautiful work...
Good start. With such gorgeous daylight mixing both flash ( Good are great at this) with window light.
Thanks! There is no daylight in my exposure. I start from a black frame so that I can control all the light.
Yes I know. Which is why I commented, with beautiful daylight it is your choice to use only flash.
@@IvanWeiss-london
@@NeilSnapePhotography Ah, I see. I rarely use daylight. I prefer to take control of the light by using strobes and modifiers.
Nice video and explanation. And really nice shots!
Love your set up, and your light on your subject, I do fine art portraiture so I have leeway for lighting but on my next shoot i'm trying this and I do use the AD200's
I like your three strip box setup..... great tutorial. The version of the 200 that I'm using purchased here in Canada is called Strobepro X200. A solid piece of kit for sure.
I'd not heard of that brand before. It doesn't matter what label is on it, it's a great unit! I just got the new round head attachment. Will be experimenting with that later.
Good product review, but the tutorial on lighting technique was great, very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks, Duane. Glad you found it useful.
There are many videos on youtube showing how to cut extra rubber on S Bracket to have a better easy fitting of AD200
Merry Christmas Ivan
Hi Ivan! Very good content👍. But why do you like this triangle lighting for headshots. Can you do another episode to show us more about this lighting setup. More details . Thank you🙏
Thanks. Glad you liked it. I like the triangle set up because it creates very soft, flattering light - getting plenty of light into the eyes and softening uneven skin without creating a flat image. There is a ton more content on this technique over at headshotcrew.com/
Ivan Weiss Thanks a lot.
If you want to see more of this type of lighting configuration, one of the most famous headshot photographers, Peter Hurley, has lots of TH-cam vids using it.
Love it Ivan! Love that roller stand. Mike Carnevale
Cheers, Mike! Those roller stands make life so much easier.
Nice insights - thanks for sharing )
Glad you found it useful! More content coming soon.
Ivan, thank you so much for this. I'm new over at HSC and have been slightly overwhelmed with the thought that I need a $4k LED flex kit to get outstanding results. I now know for sure that with the purchase of a few strip softboxes and with my existing AD200's I can still get professional results. I'm sure I'm going to keep coming back to this video to reference. Question: At one point in the video I saw what looked like an AD300 on a stand off to the side. Was that used for this shoot? Love your content, again thanks.
You can certainly start, and achieve great results, without spending huge amounts. As you progress and start to book more work, you'll know where/how you want to invest your money. That extra light is probably one of Peter's ProFoto strobes - the AD300 didn't exist back when we filmed this :). It was not used on this shoot.
Hi, can you tell me the size of the softboxes? Is it 30x120 centimeters?
I use the Rotalux 35x100cm: www.theflashcentre.com/elinchrom_rotalux_stripbox_35x100cm_softbox.html
Very helpful info. Thanks.
Welcome to TH-cam Ivan - great first video. Look forward to see more 😊
Thanks Jannick! I have more content on the way soon.
If you have the Godox S2 Bracket S-Type, you can also remove the lower rubber piece, which should help you to remove/insert the AD200 Pro a lot easier.
I put the rear end through the S2 bracket to mount it from what is the side that becomes the interior of the modifier. The knob won’t interfere with the opening in the bracket.
This is the second time I've watched this video and enjoyed it (again). I also use Godox AD200 Pro strobes and find them very useful for various types of shoots. Watching this time brought a couple of questions to mind. 1. You mentioned you shot your subject (Barbara) with an 85mm 1.4 lens. Is that a Canon lens? if so, is it "L" glass? 2. It appears you're using 1 ft x 4 ft softboxes. Please confirm or correct my observation. Thanks for the video and I look forward to hearing from you. Thanks in advance...
Hi Kenneth. Glad you enjoyed the video again. Yes, here I am using a Canon EF 85mm ƒ/1.4L IS. The softboxes by Rotalux/Elinchrom are sometimes listed as 1' x 3', sometimes 30cm x 90cm, and sometimes 35cm x 100cm. As I understand it, the size of the softbox has never changed, but the manufacturer's description is different depending on which country it is sold in. Any softbox of more or less those dimensions is usable for this type of set up.
@@IvanWeiss-london Thanks for the info, Ivan. Much appreciated.
Thanks for the video Ivan. Have you tried these little lights as white background flashes ? Maybe then we dont need to bigger unit that you have used in this video?
Yes, they can easily light a white wall
great video
Great video nice
Thanks!
How to damage your light bulb, put the softbox show here (on 3:00). Correct way is on 4:14....Beside that, love the idea.
I've never had a problem doing it either way. But I supposed there is a slightly higher risk of damage the first way. Better safe than sorry.
@@IvanWeiss-london I'am working in studio, renting/courses etc. The ways ways how people can damage bulb are cretive. One of most creative is putting plastic cover on very hot bulb:D Didn't mean to insult or anything, but when I saw how you put the softbox on....:)
@@gorankaticfotograf It's a fair point. Those of us who work alone only have a responsibility to ourselves. But studios who employ assistants have an obligation to teach and follow best practices with regard to safety.
Can we see more of your lighting setup please. Thank you.
Loads more content over at www.headshotcrew.com
The flash bracket was originally designed to fit the AD360, and I assume the AD200 was designed to fit that bracket - and they technically succeeded.
Amazing!! Ugh I have an ad600. So wondering if I should just get 3 led panels since it’s less expensive. Idk which I prefer continuous or flash
Hi Ivan. Thank you for your video. It's been really helpful. I am looking to replicate this to some degree. I have the Godox AD200 pro and the S2 bracket. Which speedring should I get for my Elinchrom softboxes? The Elinchrom website suggests...Rotalux Speedring for S-mount/Bowens EL26554. Does that sound right to you?
That depends which S2 bracket you have. The most common version is the Bowens mount. In this video I am using the version with Elinchrom mount. If you're not sure, do a google image search - they look very different, so you will be able to identify which one you have and can then buy the speedring that matches with your bracket.
@@IvanWeiss-london Ah, I see! That's what confused me...I thought all Godox S2 brackets came with the Bowens mount. I'll double check what I have on order. Thanks so much for your help. Best wishes, Chris
Woohoo!
Indeed it can! As can any strip soft box! Also very useful for evenly lighting a back ground (one on either side at 45 degrees) and lighting bottles, etc.
Great Video!. I just attended the headshot intensive in April and have been considering strip boxes and these AD200's since I can't justify spending the money on the flex kit yet. I'm glad to know this set up works because it's exactly what I was looking at, though I was thinking about 2 AD200's and 1 AD400 so that I had something a bit more powerful if I want to go out doors. Is the 100cm's too long for the strip boxes? the flex kit is around 60cm's. Also, what boom arms are you using? Thanks!
An AD400 is a good option. Or you could look at the double adapter for 2 x AD200 if you mainly shoot indoors and want that extra bit of power occasionally. The 100cm strips are slightly longer and wider than the large Flex Kit panels from Westcott, but it is a small difference and doesn't affect how useable they are in this configuration. The main advantage of the Rotalux design, compared to other strip boxes, is that they are shallow, so you can overlap them to get them really close together. The stands and booms in this video are Peter's. In my studio I use a short boom arm that I made by taking the top riser section from an old stand and putting it into a pivot clamp. You can use anything - a broom handle with a superclamp will do the job.
Good video, thanks. Please do further helpful Headshot videos.
Stay tuned. More content coming in January!
What's your typical lighting ratio with the triangle setup?
Somewhere between 1/16 and 1/32. Generally equal settings on the two upper lights, slightly lower power on the lower light.
Also have you considered the round head adapter for the light? I just got one for a better spill of light.
For use inside a softbox, I recommend the bare bulb head. The new round head is great if you're bouncing off a wall or lighting directly with no modifier. It's another accessory that makes the AD200 a really versatile bit of kit.
Thanks for the quick reply :) I’m trying to figure out a good Octobox for studio. I had the Paul c buff one but it broke finally. And to be honest it was a beast prefer smaller things now that can achieve similar qualities.
Great first video. More to come I hope. It does seem strange that you are using Rotalux modifiers rather than Bowen mount modifiers that seems to be better for the Godox ecosystem. You must have used Elinchroms previously?
That's exactly it - my first set of studio lights was an Elinchrom kit, so I started out with that system. I still use Elinchrom lights sometimes because I like the integrated deflector plate system.
Thank you for this video. I've been dialing in my headshot photography and have landed on the triangle set up as a go to for headshots with great results (I think). It has been almost two years since you made this video. Looking back on it, are there any addendums you might add for anyone working on this set up in 2020? Thanks,
Not really. I've since moved to using continuous light, which is easier to work with. But the set up and concepts are the same.
@@IvanWeiss-london It would be great to see your set up and what continuous lights you use..........I noticed some images are shot with a very shallow dof....would continuous lighting make this easier?
@@seanconcannon7922 Continuous light is my preference. It makes it easier to shoot shallow DoF as there is no limitation on sync speed. So you can shoot wide open at ƒ/1.2 and compensate with a shutter speed of 1/1000sec.
@@IvanWeiss-london Thanks a lot Ivan...thats very helpful.
Do you notice any flare/low contrast in camera when shooting straight through the feathered light coming from the other side of the rotaluxes? Or is the falloff enough to make it weak when it reaches the lens? I've seen some clamshell alternatives with both key and fill pointed towards eachother (floor and roof direction) and always wondered about flare towards camera. Obviously your images turned out great so...I guess not a problem.
Never had a problem with flare. Good quality lenses, and a lens hood, seem to do the job on that.
Hey there, i was wondering about your backdrop, i have seen similar in big studios but it looks like yours is a permanent sloped wall? is that correct? Rather than a stand holding paper etc. could you explain what goes into installing one etc. Thanks so much, great video!
This video was shot at Peter Hurley's NYC studio. I would love to have a cyc wall in my studio but I'm not sure my landlord would agree. If you are handy at DIY, read this: www.dpmag.com/how-to/tip-of-the-week/easy-install-of-a-studio-cyc-wall/
@@IvanWeiss-london Awesome thank you so much! Dont piss off the landlord haha, appreciate the link!
@@sullinsshoots You're welcome. Good luck with the project!
Thanks for this video! What size are the strip boxes? I tried to follow the link, but it is no longer active.
They're 1'x3' or approx 35x100cm
Hey man! Very good video.. I did hear you say that you max your shutter at 1/200th? Those light are High Speed Sync capable, just curious why you don't utilize that? In my opinion that is the remarkable thing about these lights (which I own) Just curious Ivan!
That's a good point, Dylan. Shooting at ƒ/5.6, ISO100, 1/200sec is usually enough to avoid any problems with ambient light contamination. Using HSS introduces other issues like higher power consumption and less reliable colour and exposure consistency. In a controlled studio environment, I wouldn't recommend HSS unless you need it to facilitate very large apertures. But is is worth being aware of this option. And if you are outside in bright sunlight, HSS is fantastic.
@@IvanWeiss-london Gotcha! I'm doing a big commercial headshot session at location today and I may try those settings... Do most photographers do a higher F stop on headshots to keep everything sharp? How come the bokeh on the ears and back isn't attractive? Just some things I'm trying to figure out!
@@dylanstreet8566 It's a question of personal preference. For a commercial headshot I find the ultra-shallow depth of field style to be too stylised. But I also don't want to have everything in sharp focus as I want to direct attention to the eyes. ƒ/5.6 on an 85mm lens is the sweet spot for me.
when softboxes start to become more expensive than lights you know lights are going in the right direction. Do you have any suggestion for affordable softboxes to go with the lights?
I don't think the Rotalux strips are expensive. There are certainly cheaper options. But none with the same build quality and ease of use.
Glow Parapop 28" and 38" but they will not hold up to hard use. They are less expensive because they are made with cheaper materials. If this is your business and you go from building to building doing headshots on location what he's using is probably the best quality to price ratio you're going to find.
Hi Ivan, Nice behind the scenes video on your light set-up. Very useful indeed. What is that light stand with the dolly and the grips in the foreground (camera right)? Looks like they make height adjustments of the strobes a breeze. Thank you!
That's a Manfrotto column stand with sliding arm: www.manfrotto.co.uk/column-stand - it does indeed make height adjustments very easy. You can operate it with one hand.
what were your camera settings? Were all the flashes set on the same power? Same channel but different groups I assume? Thanks!
So long ago I can’t remember precisely. If it doesn’t say in the video, I’d guess at 1/200sec, ISO100, f/4. Power slightly lower on the bottom unit. All same channel but different groups.
A bit late to the party. I really like how you've set up your octobox lighting. Can I ask what those extensions that are holding the weights and light together. Feel like it will make my shoots less stressful by having them on hand and not having a massive boom to carry with me.
Hi. I use these: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/224766-REG/Manfrotto_231ARM_231ARM_Hand_Grip_Sliding_Support.html
Are these really reliable, consistent colour, no over heating or weird issues because my "little voice" just doesn't trust them ? I have looked at these (and the pros as well) a bunch of times, great form factor and on paper specs and price but I can't stand nor afford misfires, issues, problems. I need my equipment to just work, all of the time. I would love to buy Godox but thus far I am making do with Canon 600EX-RTs with PB960 power packs and Bowens 400s (I have 500 and 1000 pros but use the 400s in my location kit to reduce size/weight). And am saving to buy Profoto B10s though it will take me a while as I need 5 lights for my location kit. I don't shoot head shoots and shoot approx 600 shots in 2/3 hours of quite heavy use at inside locations (no need for battery power).
Reliable? Yes. Consistent? Yes. No weird issues? Check. 600 shots on one charge? Easy. But to compare these 200Ws strobes to Bowens 400s or Profoto B10s (500Ws) is obviously not an apples to apples comparison. If you need that sort of power, either double up on AD200s (and still save money compared to the Profotos) or buy the AD400 or AD600 (and still save money compared to the Profotos). If, on the other hand, Canon 600EX-RTs are giving you sufficient output, the AD200s will make you very happy indeed.
Hi Ivan, can you teach us How to retouch the headshot ? How its the ratio between the 3 flashhead on the softboxes. And the 2 lamp head for the background? Best Regards.
For retouching, check out this channel: th-cam.com/channels/z4Lm4Pp8whcRWtJUzwcfGA.html
I have the 2 upper lights set at the same power. The lower light, pointing upwards, is typically 2/3 stop lower powered. These are the setting on the lights themselves, not readings taken with a meter. I start my shoots with the 2 main lights on 1/32 power and the uplighter on 1/64+3, then adjust to taste based on the characteristics of the subject. The lights on the background are set to whatever is needed to get it just under pure white. I then push it in post. Hope that helps!
"open this thing as far as it'll go. Give it a little wiggle, and then in it goes"
Are we still talking about the ad200? 😶🤣
Great review! I just bought one.
I was talking about the AD200. But if this advice assists you in any other areas of your life, I'm pleased to be able to help :)
AD200 have high speed synch so you could have gone to whatever you liked theoretically. Great video though, thank you.
That's a good point. However, ƒ/5.6, ISO100, 1/200sec is usually enough to avoid any problems with ambient light contamination. Using HSS introduces other issues like higher power consumption and less reliable colour and exposure consistency. In a controlled studio environment, I wouldn't recommend HSS unless you need it to facilitate very large apertures. But is is worth being aware of this option.
Nice first video. In the image being shot I thought there were three lights set up. Are they all strip lights?
Yup. All 3 of them are Elinchrom Rotalux 100x35cm strips.
Just found this looking to see if my AD200's were enough - I guess so! question with the triangle setup - the two side strips are they facing the subject or feathering the subject - hard to tell!
06:29 onwards. I like to feather the lights. Try it and see what you like.
Thanks Ivan, great thorough video. Not sure on the triangular pupil catch light though.
Hi Dale. Glad you like it. Catchlights are matter of personal taste. I concentrate on how the light shapes the face and I don't mind what shape it makes in the eye. Some people prefer to have a single, round catchlight to mimic the sun. Do you think anyone other than photographers notice these things?
Not too sure if they do Ivan, just noticed them on your website. Please don't take that as criticism, I've just never seem them in that shape (obviously from the feathering, which is producing excellent light).
I also love those Elinchrom Strip boxes, they look so portable and relatively easy to set up. All in all, an excellent video, would love to see more.
@@dalesteven1 I find it a challenge sometimes to not look at those kinds of details. I've never had a non-photographer comment on the shape of catchlights.
Despite me getting a bit tangled up in this video, the Elinchrom speedring design means that they are easy to set up. And they're very easy to transport. I usually stack them one inside the other by taking off the front diffuser.
Just curious here. When traveling you don’t break them down to store in the individual bags, or do you stack them and break them down together?
@@jameelm I usually stack them one inside the other by taking off the front diffuser.
Fantastic video and explanation of the lighting setup. Do you have an example of a setup for photographing men? I checked out your website and the lighting looks to be a bit moodier for men. Thanks!
You're right - I do a variation of this set up when I want more shadow/drama/mystery. It still uses the same three lights, just positioned differently. I hope I'll cover that in another video soon.
Thank you for clarifying. I look forward to future videos!
I would be quite interested to see what will happen if you take out all the lights and simply ask the model to face the window and do a headshot with natural light. Do we need all this equipment at all???
Of course you can shoot headshots with natural light. Plenty of people do just that. I prefer to use strobes so that I have control and repeatability - I can get the same result in any location, any room, any time of day, in any weather conditions.
Does feathering the light cause any issues with the contrast of the image by having stray light entering the lens from an angle? (The 85mm has a rather short lens hood)
That's a good question. I've never had a problem with it and I feather my lights all the time. Sometimes a lot more than this. I guess you just have to keep an eye out for it and keep your hood on. If it starts killing your contrast, back it off a bit, unless that's the effect you want.
Love this Ivan! My question is regarding the small stand in the middle strobe. What stand is that, all the ones I see are tall stands
Hi Sam. It's a Manfrotto 1051BAC - www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/609055-REG/Manfrotto_1051BAC_1051BAC_Alu_Mini_Air.html
Ivan Weiss thank you Ivan! I thought it was one of those
Just got your video in my feed and enjoyed watching it. I have a question for you. In your client shoot you are using 3 lights and, I am not sure but modifiers look like the same but lights look different. It creates amazing results. Could you tell me more about this setup?
Thanks again.
Sure. 3 Godox AD200s, each one inside a Rotalux 100x35cm strip.
@@IvanWeiss-london Thanks Ivan :) Would I get similar results with 3 regular 60cm softboxes?
@@JasonRenoux You can definitely get similar results. If they are 60cm square, you will have a bit less control. But start with what you've got and you'll work out where you want to go next. If you want more help, check out headshotcrew.com
@@IvanWeiss-london thanks a lot. will look at your site also 👍🏻
I wish I had a big open windowed studio...I might not need all my strobes.
Work with what you've got - if you have big windows, the next thing you wish for is the right orientation/right weather/right time of day.
Can we get more videos?
More coming up!
Hi... great video and work! You are using the classical triangel light set-up only with the woman headshot?
Regards Peter from Holland.
Hi Peter. I use this set up whenever I want high-key headshot lighting, regardless of the gender of the subject.
Hey awesome video thanks much appreciate it. I would love to know the name of that black light stand your using please.
HI Hillary. Glad you liked it! The light stand is the Manfrotto 1051BAC - www.manfrotto.com/us-en/compact-photo-stand-mini-with-air-cushioning-1051bac/
that modifier looks like it could be used for whole body shots.
For whole body, I'd recommend the next size up - the 50x135.
I've never seen a setup for headshots like this before. The photographer cannot move around much at all and is shooting directly parallel to the subject. Thus no offset angles. This is mug shot style, which doesn't often work for many. So my question is, do you setup wider in this triangle format and do you have any samples/videos of a wider setup?
Seems to work pretty well for those of us that use it. You can call it a mugshot if you like.
Thanks, it was a nice one! Can you tell something about the light ratio ? Grtz. from the Netherlands.
Hi Geert. Sure. I have the 2 upper lights set at the same power. The lower light, pointing upwards, is typically 2/3 stop lower powered. These are the setting on the lights themselves, not readings taken with a meter. I start my shoots with the 2 main lights on 1/32 power and the uplighter on 1/64+3, then adjust to taste based on the characteristics of the subject. Hope that helps!
Thank you, Ivan. See you at the next video!
Hi thanks interesting video - do you ever double up on the units say for outdoors etc.
I rarely shoot outdoors - I'm based in London :). I have the larger AD600 if I need more power to be able to work at greater distances. The new AD600 Pro looks very interesting, but I have the older version for now.
@@IvanWeiss-london Yes - I'm North West based - you've got a point. I'm thinking of downsizing my strobes because I never seem to use them anywhere near full power.
@@markshirley01 I've heard good things about the double bracket that allows you to create a 400W unit but without negatively affecting the impressive flash duration and recycle times. If 400W sounds like it would be enough power for the work you do, it's worth checking out.
Great Video! But I have a question which size have the striplights?
They are Rotalux 35x100cm strips.
@@IvanWeiss-london Thank you!
@@IvanWeiss-london For the Americans out there that is about 14" x 40"
Hey the audio is really bad ... Lav mics would definitely help minimize the echoes
Thanks for the tip. I hope it doesn't get in the way of communicating the information.
@@IvanWeiss-london I didn't mean to be disrespectful so I hope you don't feel that way and I hope it didn't come off that way too ... I'll continue to watch what else you come out with ...
@@sieyon Not at all. It's good to get feedback to know what people expect.
@@IvanWeiss-london Good answer
With his new Flash if you have multiple flashes can all 3 of them fire together
Yes. All the flashes fire together.
Are you using 12"×36" strips?
Yes. They are listed as 30x90cm or 35x100cm - roughly equivalent to 12"x36"
what's on those stands looks like it helps angle the lights. I'd love to get something like that
It's an extension arm and a grip head. Very useful things to have in a studio!
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/3594-REG/Avenger_D520L_D520L_Extension_Arm.html
www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/838888-REG/Impact_kcp200b_Grip_Head_for_Lights.html
Ivan Weiss just seeing this. Thanks g
cops coming . run
Godox S2 bracket will solve the fit issue. www.adorama.com/glbdsm02pro.html. Thanks for the video. I run the same setup with the godox/Flashpoint li-on speed lights and get the same results. I'm going to try the extreme feathering. Nice work!
Yeah, the S2 seems a better design. Any drawbacks with it?
It’s easy to lose the piece that comes out to make room for the larger lights. Not really a problem if you don’t need it for smaller speed lights. Other than that, it’s great and an improvement over the original.
@@rockj8197 Thanks for the tip, Rocky. Sounds like the sort of problem that can be solved with some gaff tape!
The elinchrom stripbox size please
1'x3', sometimes listed as 30x90 or 35x100
I was looking for for your Instagram page in the discription.
Hi Luke. It's @ivanweiss.london
Why are you hitting Barbara with the strip lights that are not flattering to her wrinkles? why not the larger soft box that will smooth skin further? Even with your 3 light triangular formation it is not a flattering light.
Larger modifiers give me less control over the z-axis contrast, which means a flatter image. I like to see a bit of depth. I don't find the light to be unflattering. I'm not attempting to remove wrinkles from a 70 year old face, I think that would look unnatural. You can have your own aesthetic and your own opinion on that. I'm just showing how I do what I do.
Do elinchrome modifiers fit in bowens mount?
When buying the modifiers you can specify which mount you want. I use the Elinchrom mount but you can also get Bowens, Profoto, Broncolor, Alien Bees, etc.
No they don't if you are just starting out with softbox/stripbox/beauty dish lighting might i suggest getting Bowens mount modifiers or accessories, as it is the most commonly used & sold making the modifiers you can use cheaper!.
@@stephengatley1332 They do. Click the link above and you'll see the option to choose the speedring. Cost is always a consideration when buying photographic equipment. All things being equal, Bowens mount is the easiest and cheapest. If you have access to Elinchrom lights, you'll want to stick with the Elinchrom mount.
is the AD200 capable of High Speed Sync?
Yes it is.
Can you link to any of the equipment?
Sure thing. I've added links now.
Do you use a different setup for men?
This triangle set-up works well for everyone. I use a different configuration if I want to create more shadow and more drama.
Thanks, Ivan. So, if you were doing a shoot for a company where you would be shooting 20 individuals, you would use the triangle for everyone?
@@rockj8197 Yup. The triangle is my go-to set up.
Can i use godox ad 200 in the studio as the main light
Absolutely. I'm using AD200s in the studio here.
Its only a one light or it supposed to be two for reflection
@@richmondke1805 In this video I am using 3 lights. If you want to do a 1-light portrait set up, the AD200 has more than enough power for that as well.
Ok and which light on godox can yu advice me to buy for studio work and also outdoor ...that can produce a good quality
@@richmondke1805 I recommend the AD200, which is why I made this video. If you need more power than that, get the AD400 or AD600. They are all battery powered, so good for taking outside, and they all work with the same remote triggering system.
where is the headshot.
In the video at 5:06 and 5:15
Or you can head over to my Instagram page: instagram.com/ivanweiss.london/ or my website: ivanweiss.london
you said the lights are not pointing at her face? 5:12 you can see that two of them are pointed at her face.... both the bottom and the right one do not match what you said. Do you not think this gives a very flat lighting?
Hi Chaz. At 5:12 we are reviewing the images on the monitor. We're not in front of the lights at all. With regards to the flatness of the light, you can see the results. This is how I like to light my headshots, but of course you can choose to do it differently. I think my lighting style adds depth to the image due to the fall-off creating Z-axis contrast.
@@IvanWeiss-london So at 5:12 you can not see your lighting then your blind.
@@chazM6116 I have a slight astigmatism in my right eye, but other than that fairly good eyesight. I'd love to help you if you have a genuine question.
@@IvanWeiss-london OK don't listen
@@chazM6116 I'm listening. Can you explain to me in different words what your question is?
Thanks for the video but I don't see how your clients would be happy with that light setup reducing their pupils to triangles.
Just looks creepy.
Funnily enough, the only people who ever mention the catchlights are other photographers. I think that non-photographers subconsciously accept that the eyes will reflect whatever is in front of them. They read the picture as a whole, and engage with the subject as a person. And that is exactly what I want. Of course, as photographers, we are trained to dissect the image and look at the individual details. This can sometimes lead to us not seeing the wood for the trees. Anyway, you can of course arrange your lights however you want. My preference is to prioritise the way the light shapes the face regardless of what shape catchlight it gives me.
I'm guessing you haven't noticed Peter Hurley (Mr headshot) images always have unusual catchlights.
@@USFreedom Sorry about the late reply.... but the difference is that Peter Hurley uses high level continuous light sources specifically to cause his subjects eye pupils to contract and be as small as possible. This allows him to use a similar three light setup but still allow the subjects pupils to show as naturally round. Also Peter Hurley usually separates his lights a bit more so the implied triangular shape is less obvious. Ivan's tight light spacing and his subjects large pupil size just results in a very obvious and unnatural triangular pupil illusion.
Perhaps a bit too late to join the pool of TONS OF VIDEOS on this subject
I'm sorry you didn't find it helpful.
Você poderia falar direito não entendi nada .
I'm sorry you had trouble understanding it, Gisele. Are there any parts in particular that are difficult to grasp?
Very bad sound!!!.
Bad sound quality. You need to do better with your use of mics.
Thanks for you thoughtful comment, Rich. I hope the sound quality didn't interfere with your learning. And I hope you find the sound quality on my more recent videos to be better.
Thanks for the video Ivan. Have you tried these little lights as white background flashes ? Maybe then we dont need to bigger unit that you have used in this video?
Yes, they can easily light a white wall
@@IvanWeiss-london thanks for taking the time to reply:)