A very good (and clear!) video. I'm currently contemplating replacing both rubber boots on my 2011 GSA and was struggling to understand some of the steps in the (Haynes) workshop manual. Your video filled in lots of gaps for me and gives me with confidence that I should be able to do the job with the limited tools and facilities at my disposal. Thank you very much indeed. (And yes, I too have one or two of my late father's old tools among my collection)
Honestly, this was fun to watch. But I had the same response you did after seeing how easy it was -- conceptually, if not practically -- to replace that engine/drive boot. Two days ago, SF BMW tried to put the fear of god in me about the replacement cost of it ($3k), that's if I got lucky and it didn't wreck the clutch when it fails. I suspected but shouldn't have known that it was just a scare tactic. Thanks so much!
Ok, just finished this up and this video really helped. Couple things to note: 1 you definitely can pull the drive shaft without pulling the swing arm on the 2010 2 you can't replace the swing arm boot without removing the swing arm. Well, maybe you could but i tried for a few hours and it's just faster to remove the swing arm. 3 i didn't need a slide hammer or hammer out the right pivot. Simply lifting the swing arm so that there wasn't any weight on the pivot allowed me to simply slide it right out. I just put one of the longer screws in the middle and held onto it with pliers. Same thing for the install, didn't need to hammer it back on, just make sure there's no weight on it and it'll go in super easy. Just a tad bit of grease makes it even easier. 4 make sure there's no weight on the shock when you pull the bolts. They will come out easier and you don't want the FD slamming into the ground. 5 removing the rear shock was a huge pain because it was so tight in the swing arm. I had to use a pry bar to get it out and a dead blow hammer to position it back in. Just be careful when prying because the metal on the swing arm is soft. I put a small gouge in mine. 6 interestingly, the bearings didn't appear to be completely sealed on the inside of the swing arm. Just wondering to watch for because i noticed dirt on the inside of my swing arm.
Thanks, I needed to see someone tighten up the swingarm bolt (hex) and nut (tight!) and its good you could do it without the BMW tool that holds the hex still while tightening the 30mm nut. I've got the shocks off my K1300S and have sent them away for a refurb. When they come back I have the same nut arrangement on my front shock telelever, its the same as your swingarm. Thank you from Bournemouth UK !
I struggled to find replacement, but thanks to a forum , I found them at Bing carburant in north America. I did a small modification.. I drilled the shaft (2.5 mm) and did a tap ((M3). When I reassembled, I used a thin steel washer that covers most of the plastic and metal . I used a 2 components epoxy glue that I put on the washer . Then screwed a M3 screen with a thin head . I did that on both throttle bodies Hopefully, this will help to strengthen the pulley. It s been 3 years since and so far , so good. I keep my fingers crossed and mostly , I try to be as gentle as possible with the throttle.
Great video… question I’m about to do this in the near future but when u take the seat off there are some components that have to come off before I can get to the upper shock bolt… I didn’t see that part in the video so my question is is that easy to come apart as well?
How hard that shaft would be to remove depends a lot on the condition of the splines / circlip. In nice clean greased condition like that it'll come right off but I've had some corroded CV shafts on cars in the past that took multiple tons of hydraulic pressure to get the clip to pop out.
I've had to deal with that issue on cars as well. I had a Mini Cooper on the lift one day that would NOT let me remove the inner left CV. I finally just pulled the joint apart and dropped the transmission with the damn thing in place. It was in for a clutch. Other Minis just pop right out. Admittedly, I got lucky on this one. ( ;
Great video! Do you or any subscriber know anything about the driveshaft itself and the Torsion Dampener holding the two halves together? Is it possible for that rubber or polymer material to breakdown and cause what otherwise would seem to be clutch slippage? Thanks for any help and insight!
Question: When you installed the boot on the transmission first instead of installing the boot's plastic sleeve into the swingarm first' did you leave the sleeve out and just silicone the boot to the swingarm side?
Hello, I started to disassemble my BMW today to change the rubbers, your video is the best tutorial I have found, thanks, regards Ed Abo is done
Glad it helped
Hey, I was watching your videos back when you did the CB 750, and today YT tells me you are doing more Motorbike videos. Joy! ❤️
Just followed the steps laid out and I replaced both of my rubber seals. Thank you for your video. Saved me a bundle in labor costs.
Glad it helped
😊P kp Mo Mo Mo Moulu=8) 😊y
20:59 @@HackaweekTV
A very good (and clear!) video. I'm currently contemplating replacing both rubber boots on my 2011 GSA and was struggling to understand some of the steps in the (Haynes) workshop manual. Your video filled in lots of gaps for me and gives me with confidence that I should be able to do the job with the limited tools and facilities at my disposal. Thank you very much indeed.
(And yes, I too have one or two of my late father's old tools among my collection)
Glad it helped
Honestly, this was fun to watch. But I had the same response you did after seeing how easy it was -- conceptually, if not practically -- to replace that engine/drive boot.
Two days ago, SF BMW tried to put the fear of god in me about the replacement cost of it ($3k), that's if I got lucky and it didn't wreck the clutch when it fails. I suspected but shouldn't have known that it was just a scare tactic. Thanks so much!
Funny how they do that. It's an older (but not that old) bike and they get scared I guess.
Ok, just finished this up and this video really helped. Couple things to note:
1 you definitely can pull the drive shaft without pulling the swing arm on the 2010
2 you can't replace the swing arm boot without removing the swing arm. Well, maybe you could but i tried for a few hours and it's just faster to remove the swing arm.
3 i didn't need a slide hammer or hammer out the right pivot. Simply lifting the swing arm so that there wasn't any weight on the pivot allowed me to simply slide it right out. I just put one of the longer screws in the middle and held onto it with pliers. Same thing for the install, didn't need to hammer it back on, just make sure there's no weight on it and it'll go in super easy. Just a tad bit of grease makes it even easier.
4 make sure there's no weight on the shock when you pull the bolts. They will come out easier and you don't want the FD slamming into the ground.
5 removing the rear shock was a huge pain because it was so tight in the swing arm. I had to use a pry bar to get it out and a dead blow hammer to position it back in. Just be careful when prying because the metal on the swing arm is soft. I put a small gouge in mine.
6 interestingly, the bearings didn't appear to be completely sealed on the inside of the swing arm. Just wondering to watch for because i noticed dirt on the inside of my swing arm.
Question for you do you have to take the shock completely out or can u take out the bottom bolts and loosen the top bolts so it moves?
Thanks, I needed to see someone tighten up the swingarm bolt (hex) and nut (tight!) and its good you could do it without the BMW tool that holds the hex still while tightening the 30mm nut. I've got the shocks off my K1300S and have sent them away for a refurb. When they come back I have the same nut arrangement on my front shock telelever, its the same as your swingarm. Thank you from Bournemouth UK !
Glad I could help
Good to see you working on your bikes again. Enjoyed the CB 750 rebuild and other bike related vids. Have fun on your Triumph.
You sir, are a very clever man, and a great teacher.
Thank you for the video.
You are very welcome
Very nice!
You are a quick mechanic!
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
Thanks for the information, great help. 😊
Great to see you’ve made another bike video, loved the Repsol Honda inspired series you made a while back
That's really cool using your dad's old snap on ratchet. I still use my dad's old brass tyre pressure gauge from a similar time period!
Old tool are cool.
I struggled to find replacement, but thanks to a forum , I found them at Bing carburant in north America.
I did a small modification..
I drilled the shaft (2.5 mm) and did a tap ((M3).
When I reassembled, I used a thin steel washer that covers most of the plastic and metal .
I used a 2 components epoxy glue that I put on the washer .
Then screwed a M3 screen with a thin head .
I did that on both throttle bodies
Hopefully, this will help to strengthen the pulley.
It s been 3 years since and so far , so good.
I keep my fingers crossed and mostly , I try to be as gentle as possible with the throttle.
What does that have to do with a swingarm boot?
Great video… question I’m about to do this in the near future but when u take the seat off there are some components that have to come off before I can get to the upper shock bolt… I didn’t see that part in the video so my question is is that easy to come apart as well?
It's not so hard.
Correct high-moly paste on the splines is preferable - I don't use copper-slip here.
How hard that shaft would be to remove depends a lot on the condition of the splines / circlip. In nice clean greased condition like that it'll come right off but I've had some corroded CV shafts on cars in the past that took multiple tons of hydraulic pressure to get the clip to pop out.
I've had to deal with that issue on cars as well. I had a Mini Cooper on the lift one day that would NOT let me remove the inner left CV. I finally just pulled the joint apart and dropped the transmission with the damn thing in place. It was in for a clutch. Other Minis just pop right out. Admittedly, I got lucky on this one. ( ;
@@HackaweekTV Yeah The last guy to work on that bike definitely did you a solid :-)
22:02 Hi, a question, is this cap an optional or a third-party accessory? Thank
That is an original factory part.
That CB 750 series is a classic! It is a go-to for Honda SOHC Fours (I think). It got me into bikes😊.
Great video! Do you or any subscriber know anything about the driveshaft itself and the Torsion Dampener holding the two halves together? Is it possible for that rubber or polymer material to breakdown and cause what otherwise would seem to be clutch slippage? Thanks for any help and insight!
I doubt it would slip like a clutch. Seems to me if it failed it would slip all the time.
Thank you for the video.💯
Great Job! How long dit it take you for real? And could you imagine replaying the robber without talking of the whole rear end?
A few hours.
Question:
When you installed the boot on the transmission first instead of installing the boot's plastic sleeve into the swingarm first' did you leave the sleeve out and just silicone the boot to the swingarm side?
No silicone, just pushed it into place.
Could the driveshaft not pass rearward thru the swing arm and pull the old gaiter out that way?
It might...
I shall endeavour to find out in the coming weeks, my gaiter needs done. Ill let you know@@HackaweekTV
I can confirm it does, no need to remove swing arm to renew the gaiter.
Perfect job well happy did it my self thanks so much showing step by step 5*****
You're very welcome!
What happened to the Scrambler Build? Still waiting for that to start! Haha
Gave that one up a few years ago.
Great Video
Excellent!
Seems like you could just pop out the drive shaft and not even remove the swing arm
Yes you can.
That was my thought, lower the final drive, rip off the old gaiter, pop driveshaft off gearbox and pull it back out the way and fit the new gaiter.
Woo another bike vid!. Miss the bike content mate! What ever happened to the CB360T?!
I sold it when we moved. Decided to let someone else finish it.
@@HackaweekTV Thanks for the update! Also glad to know you are still riding!
Excellent work and very helpful video, THANK YOU! Sub'd and Thumbs UP!!
Thanks for the sub!
Did that just take you 40 minutes? I've just been told it's a 3 hour job by my mechanic.
4 coffee breaks included
Muy bueno el video
Ottimo lavoro ma mi sembra che non hai messo l'olio nella trasmissione dell cardo .o almeno dall video sembra di no
Sí lo hice
Thank you sir
You're welcome and thanks for watching.