I lube linears with grade 2 dialectric grease, and I absolutely love the feeling more than grade 0 lubricant. Idk, it feels smoother, but heavier although light appliance will do the trick. Anyway, great video.
I'm guessing from the comments they didn't break in and get rid of the scratchiness? I am looking for some cheap into linears and found the Gay Yellows, which led me to the Cap Yellows. Would you say just to go with the older Gat Yellows?
Yeah I used them for a couple weeks after posting the video still and they sound maybe a touch better? But still definitely noticeable scratch. I think it depends on what you're looking for. If you want strictly smoothness, go for gat yellows. If you like the deeper sound profile and are willing to try breaking them in to get rid of scratch, go for caps
For me, smoothness is the number 1 priority, and these cap switches sound and probably feel waaaay too scratchy lubed. It would drive me insane if I had to use them, I would probably end up over lubing them trying to make them smooth😅
Tbh even the lube couldn't save it from the extreme scratchy sound. I just hope they will smooth out over time through some kind of break in period, but I did take them out of my board already
@@louisdouvillebeaudoin4035 Honestly I'm not sure. I think the cap switches are the first ones to use this specific mix of plastic, so no previous experience of whether or not they'll lose their scratch over time. I will say that NK creams break in faster than the caps
@@louisdouvillebeaudoin4035 I think it depends on how much time you're willing to put in. The sound isn't all too different but I would say there is a noticeable difference in the smoothness once you lube them. However, it takes a good few hours to lube them all
great video man, love your presentation. i got a question. I have the anne pro 2 keyboard and thinking about getting the gateron whites/clears MILKY switches, I don't understand the 3/5 pin / pcb mount things? do they matter?
Thanks! So 3 pin means that on the bottom of the switch, there is only going to be that large circular thing sticking out in the middle and the 2 metal pins sticking out for the soldering connection. 5 pin will have all those plus 2 more little plastic pins sticking out to help keep it aligned better. They don't make a huge difference unless you're gonna build your board without a plate (PCB mount). Most of the time, the plate will take care of aligning the switches (Plate mount)
Were your CAPS switches actually 3 pin? The ones I got from Novelkeys was marketed as 5 pin, marked as 3 pin on the box, but ended up being 5 pin anyways. Wonder what that is all about?
Just Got myself a Prebuilt Keyboard called FL esports FL680 with Cap yellow V1 ( Clear Top Milky Bottom) . It feels a bit smoother for that clear top housing to begin with. Make sure to do a follow up video in future with Gateron Cap v2 and Gateron Pro yellows. There are so many Gat yellows these days!
I just have a quick question since im new to mechanical keyboards and i wanted to know if I can just put a 3 pin switch in a pcb with 5 holes for 5 pin switches since i wanted to buy the kbd67 lite and wanted to use milky yellows with 3 pins
I heard there is a V2 for all of these switches now which improves their previous attributes. The Cap Milkies especially seem to be the bang for buck here.
I've just ordered some milky caps to test them out. I've heard you need to be careful lubing the cap switches as they can eject the lube via the airports and make a mess of your PCB.
Can someone help me? I’m stuck between ordering this keyboard in Gateron cap yellow or Kailh Box reds. I like the sort of click sound with the Cap yellow but I like the deeper tone of the Box Reds. Is anyone of them smoother or better than the other?
Yeah Lincoln is right. These are a new type of switch so no current standard mx-style stems (UHMWPE included) are compatible. As far as I know, these are the first switches that have been made available in this variant
@@AustinV I've heard that Gateron improves the same switch through out the time, so the the latest batch of Cap yellow would be different from the the earliest ones.
Board Specs Case: TOFU60 Aluminum (e-white) PCB: DZ60 RGB Plate: Aluminum Stabilizers: Durock Screw In, lubed with Krytox 205G0, KBDFans foam stickers for bottom out Caps: OEM Profile PBT caps from Amazon (amzn.to/37joUTQ) *Added foam in between case and PCB *Silicone O-rings on standoffs for softer bottom out (amzn.to/2V7mQsw) FYI: In the future, you can always look for my board specs in the description :)
I love how Gateron keeps improving their switches. Great video thank you.
Thanks! Yeah always nice to see companies innovate. Excited to see what's to come in the future
Love the new side by side comparison format in this
Thanks!!
dude ur videos are so well done, ur probably gonna grow up any soon, keep it going!
Thanks so much!! I really appreciate it!
Awesome video; well done. So much work went into this, and it shows
Thanks so much!
I lube linears with grade 2 dialectric grease, and I absolutely love the feeling more than grade 0 lubricant. Idk, it feels smoother, but heavier although light appliance will do the trick. Anyway, great video.
where can i buy some?
I was thinking about getting the milky yellows, but that scratchiness killed it for me. Gonna stick with normal yellows lol. Great video!
Exactly my opinion and decision.
I'm guessing from the comments they didn't break in and get rid of the scratchiness? I am looking for some cheap into linears and found the Gay Yellows, which led me to the Cap Yellows. Would you say just to go with the older Gat Yellows?
Yeah I used them for a couple weeks after posting the video still and they sound maybe a touch better? But still definitely noticeable scratch.
I think it depends on what you're looking for. If you want strictly smoothness, go for gat yellows. If you like the deeper sound profile and are willing to try breaking them in to get rid of scratch, go for caps
Gay Yellows Pog
For me, smoothness is the number 1 priority, and these cap switches sound and probably feel waaaay too scratchy lubed. It would drive me insane if I had to use them, I would probably end up over lubing them trying to make them smooth😅
Tbh even the lube couldn't save it from the extreme scratchy sound. I just hope they will smooth out over time through some kind of break in period, but I did take them out of my board already
@@louisdouvillebeaudoin4035 Honestly I'm not sure. I think the cap switches are the first ones to use this specific mix of plastic, so no previous experience of whether or not they'll lose their scratch over time. I will say that NK creams break in faster than the caps
@@louisdouvillebeaudoin4035 They're definitely the smoothest of the bunch
@@louisdouvillebeaudoin4035 I think it depends on how much time you're willing to put in. The sound isn't all too different but I would say there is a noticeable difference in the smoothness once you lube them. However, it takes a good few hours to lube them all
Thanks for the vid. Any sites where I can buy shorter springs for the CAP? Haven’t found any and would like to swap.
Hi Austin. When you lube it, did you wash the factory lube first or just do it?
Yeah I wiped it off with some electronics cleaning swabs
great video man, love your presentation. i got a question. I have the anne pro 2 keyboard and thinking about getting the gateron whites/clears MILKY switches, I don't understand the 3/5 pin / pcb mount things? do they matter?
Thanks! So 3 pin means that on the bottom of the switch, there is only going to be that large circular thing sticking out in the middle and the 2 metal pins sticking out for the soldering connection. 5 pin will have all those plus 2 more little plastic pins sticking out to help keep it aligned better.
They don't make a huge difference unless you're gonna build your board without a plate (PCB mount). Most of the time, the plate will take care of aligning the switches (Plate mount)
@@AustinV thanks for your explanation, king
@@a7mad9999999 I gotchu
Were your CAPS switches actually 3 pin? The ones I got from Novelkeys was marketed as 5 pin, marked as 3 pin on the box, but ended up being 5 pin anyways. Wonder what that is all about?
Yeah mine were both 3 pin
The ones I got from Novelkeys were 5 pin as well, which I didn't mind at all.
How do you get them out of the acrylic case?????????? :BIG QUESTION MARK EMOJI, DEsPERATE EMOJI
Just Got myself a Prebuilt Keyboard called FL esports FL680 with Cap yellow V1 ( Clear Top Milky Bottom) . It feels a bit smoother for that clear top housing to begin with.
Make sure to do a follow up video in future with Gateron Cap v2 and Gateron Pro yellows. There are so many Gat yellows these days!
I just have a quick question since im new to mechanical keyboards and i wanted to know if I can just put a 3 pin switch in a pcb with 5 holes for 5 pin switches since i wanted to buy the kbd67 lite and wanted to use milky yellows with 3 pins
yes, you can!
Yeah 3 pin switches can go in 5 pin boards. I actually put these switches in my own kbd67 lite and had no issues
@@AustinV ok thanks
Gateron caps just sound scratchier, original yellows are the way to go.
Do you need a switch puller to get them out of the box or original case?
Yeah they're pretty stuck in there. I used a switch puller to remove them
Austin V does it come with one or do you have to buy an additional one?
@@nateon360hz7 You have to get one
I heard there is a V2 for all of these switches now which improves their previous attributes. The Cap Milkies especially seem to be the bang for buck here.
Really? Where do I find them I've been looking at Milky yellows for the past hours and can't seem to find a good source
They still have a lot of off-centre scratchiness, even after lubing. Gat Yellows are much smoother.
does this have interference for north facing leds on Cherry keycaps?
I've just ordered some milky caps to test them out. I've heard you need to be careful lubing the cap switches as they can eject the lube via the airports and make a mess of your PCB.
in your opinion which one d o you prefer
I think I kind of prefer the cap switches. I am willing to deal with the scratchiness since they have such a deep sound
6:28 is the sound test
do we need to film this switch? if so what film do you recommend?
Can someone help me? I’m stuck between ordering this keyboard in Gateron cap yellow or Kailh Box reds. I like the sort of click sound with the Cap yellow but I like the deeper tone of the Box Reds. Is anyone of them smoother or better than the other?
Does the Milky Top yellows have spring ping or leaf ping?
great video well made this described and showed everything i needed to know and more all my questions are answered thank you
does it fit the gateron switches the samducksa arcade buttons?
lubed gateron yellow dont have any changes in sound vs stock -__-'
was thinking about upgrading from yellows to golden caps, can't believe they are that scratchy even after lubing:(
can i put these on the gk61, if not what keyboards can I put them on, do you have any recommendations?
These will fit on any mx compatible board so your gk61 will be good
Will work as long as it's not an optical hotswap GK61, which seems to be the more common version now.
what about milky yellow switches with black bottoms?
Those sound so nice stock and lubed... Idk bro... sooooooooooooooo nice
I really like the deep sound profile of them but the intense scratchiness really needs an improvement imo
Have you tested the cap switches with uhmwpe stems and if you have does it get rid of the scratch sound?
i dont think the stems are compatible at all, please refer to 1:40.
Yeah Lincoln is right. These are a new type of switch so no current standard mx-style stems (UHMWPE included) are compatible. As far as I know, these are the first switches that have been made available in this variant
@@AustinV ah ok thank you
i like the normal gat yellow lubed sound better i dont hear a scratch at all
They are the budget kings for a reason!
@@AustinV are they eatable
@@burger9726 Let me know!
I just got the switch in the mail and it got almost non the scratchiness like in the video, either way that's a good thing lol/
Dang you really lucked out! Maybe newer batches are smoother?
@@AustinV I've heard that Gateron improves the same switch through out the time, so the the latest batch of Cap yellow would be different from the the earliest ones.
The packaging is clean
The milks sound deeper to me. Am I crazy?
I love yellows! Can’t go anywhere
where is ur question mark????
The R shift key works as the /? key if you tap it
a big scratchy but they sounds pretty nice!
Deep thock is quite nice. Just hoping they will break in like creams or something to remove the scratch
Reaaaallyy great video, definetly a like and sub worth
Thanks!! Appreciate it!
What keyboard is that?
Board Specs
Case: TOFU60 Aluminum (e-white)
PCB: DZ60 RGB
Plate: Aluminum
Stabilizers: Durock Screw In, lubed with Krytox 205G0, KBDFans foam stickers for bottom out
Caps: OEM Profile PBT caps from Amazon (amzn.to/37joUTQ)
*Added foam in between case and PCB
*Silicone O-rings on standoffs for softer bottom out (amzn.to/2V7mQsw)
FYI: In the future, you can always look for my board specs in the description :)
@@AustinV Ok thanks for the response :)
u telling me these gateron switches can LIE?!?!?! 😳
Bruh, use your pinkies man.
yoooooooooooooooooo
First!