Nice video. One tip I found... I don't have internal routing so I don't have to worry about it, but I saw someone show that the little holes on the end of the cap of the new hose are for putting thin string or dental floss through, to tie to the old hose in order to pull it through. Seems simpler and easier, but may or may not be helpful or better than your tape method, whatever works. Also, after installing my 8100s, I followed the manual and didn't disassemble the nut/olive, but still had plenty of air to bleed out. So although without disassembly I did not have any leaks, I don't see anything wrong with taking the olive out and making sure it's on the hose properly, other than it being a little more mess.
very helpful and,.... to the point. Thanx. Don Shimano's instructions are non existent so the to the point detail makes for a trouble free installation
A little tip on the side: The brake is prepared in such a way that you can simply insert the shortened line into the brake housing. No need to fish around there. And please use proper tool to tighten the screw and not pliers
14:37 you actually dont need to do this you can put the brake line directly into it all you have to do is shorten you brake line and put thjje metal insert and just insert the cable in without unscrewing the bolt with yellow cap
Dude, this is all wrong. The whole point of these brakes is you don't need to pull the olive out and let the oil spill out everywhere. You should read the shimano instructions. There should be no need to bleed these brakes after you install them. You should also learn how to bleed brakes properly.
@@zymbol7479 his mistake is that he unscrewed the bolt with the yellow cap on it, the olive is pre installed inside so you just have to pull out the the yellow cap when everything is ready an fit your brake line into it and just tighten the bolt and youre done
What a wonderful how-to video for what I need to in order to switch over to the Shimano XT brakes. Really appreciate this as I have Giant Trance Advanced 1 bike. Hmm, I suppose that my 2019 bike here also does not have internal routing cables like your 2018 Reign. Thank you for the details and tips in this video, liked and sub'd!
Thank you for clarification on the olive. That, in my opinion is the most important part of the installation. Other videos just briefly shove the line into the screw and hope for the best.
At 6:00 roughly you remove the rear brakes. I always remove the pads first so there is no chance of getting fluid on them. If you do, the pads are toast.
You should definitely remove the pads if you are going to use them again. I don't plan on using these brakes anytime soon, so I wasn't worried about it.
Just transfer the banjo line from the original xt 2 Pistons and put it on the 4 piston caliper then bleed the line they use the same brake levers and banjo single piston or 4 piston.
If he was replacing xt m8000 then it will work, but won't be as good as it could be. The m8000 is renowned for poor levers and random bite points. Part of the reason to upgrade to the m8120 is to get the new lever design, the new lever also runs the two pot version m8100,, the same applies to the new SLX lever it runs both the 7100/7120.
There is no need to remove the brass ferrule or loosen the collar. Simply remove the yellow plug, install the hose through the collar and the ferrule. Don’t waste time doing this and make sure the hose is fully seated. Tighten the collar to spec. Easy peasy. Engineers are pretty smart and dummy down the installation to prevent error. (Like calling a brass ferrule an olive 🤣). Seriously, problems occur when we try to overthink the process.
Great video with easy to follow steps to install the 8120 brakes. Quick Q: what difference have you noticed so far between the 4piston 8120 braking power vs the 2 piston you had previously? I weigh 198 lbs (90kgs). And what rotors and size(s) are you using? Appreciate your response!
Total newbee here. If you shorten the hose (you did not show this), do you need to take out the metal thing at the end of the hose and put i back into the shortened hose?
10:39 min, the washer arrangement is false. The ball side must point to the mating ball shaped washer side. From Frame to bolt head: One concave washer, one convex washer, the brake, one convex washer, one concave washer. The purpose of these washers is to allow for angular adjustment and they are usually used at V-brakes. For disk brakes they are not needed as the surfaces have a 90deg angle.
I just bought just the caliper. Mine doesn't have the banjo bolt hole. It looks like something screws into it straight on and not from the side. Super odd.
Why didn’t you keep your old cables/gubbins and lever? If your old 2 piston setup was M8100 then there is only one type of lever for both 2pot and 4pot, it seems an unnecessary exercise unless you wanted all new?
@@uosocal that’s strange the Shimano website doesn’t appear to spec the M8120 lever however it can be found on Google, I wonder why that is? bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8100.html
13:53 I see than my cable and your cable has some membrane/seal so the fluid does not come off. You need to remove it before connecting to the brake handle? Or it’s pushed automatically when you connect it all together ? But then, this membrane will stay in the cable so that’s not good I think…
@@uosocal i think there is because I’m looking at it. Saint brakes. Plus they are bleeded so oil would come out easily if there would be no seal/ membrane
@@LeecMTB you don't want this seal to be floaring inside your braking system ;D just shorten the wire and you will get rid of the seal at the same time. You probably have to shorten the wire anyway so - problem solved, right?
@@uosocal i mean, you dont have to pull the olive out the lever. Stick the Pin in to the black cable and all in the lever When ever Things fine you dont need to bleed.
Great video. Helps a lot. But what you could have shown us was the shorting of the hose.
Great how to video, helped me tremendously installing my new XT brakes.
Nice video. One tip I found... I don't have internal routing so I don't have to worry about it, but I saw someone show that the little holes on the end of the cap of the new hose are for putting thin string or dental floss through, to tie to the old hose in order to pull it through. Seems simpler and easier, but may or may not be helpful or better than your tape method, whatever works.
Also, after installing my 8100s, I followed the manual and didn't disassemble the nut/olive, but still had plenty of air to bleed out. So although without disassembly I did not have any leaks, I don't see anything wrong with taking the olive out and making sure it's on the hose properly, other than it being a little more mess.
very helpful and,.... to the point. Thanx. Don
Shimano's instructions are non existent so the to the point detail makes for a trouble free installation
Fantastic! I'm doing this exact DIY install this week. Isaved the video and will probably watch a few more times.
A little tip on the side: The brake is prepared in such a way that you can simply insert the shortened line into the brake housing. No need to fish around there. And please use proper tool to tighten the screw and not pliers
Thanks for this! This was the most helpful video I’ve found out of all the ones I’ve watched!
Thank you. Check out the rest of my MA2 playlist.
Well Done!
Greetings from Poland ;-)
Thanks for this video !
13:22, the rubber cover was backwards, but I swear I saw you put it on the right way. LOL
14:37 you actually dont need to do this you can put the brake line directly into it all you have to do is shorten you brake line and put thjje metal insert and just insert the cable in without unscrewing the bolt with yellow cap
Right👍
Excellent video.
This was super helpful. Thank you
14:46 " and we are going to put OLIVE that.." hehe
great video !!! I'm gonna install mine tonight
Very helpful. thank you
Great and really helpful video!!
Dude, this is all wrong. The whole point of these brakes is you don't need to pull the olive out and let the oil spill out everywhere. You should read the shimano instructions. There should be no need to bleed these brakes after you install them. You should also learn how to bleed brakes properly.
That was just a lever bleed but where was the mistake?
Exactly
@@zymbol7479 his mistake is that he unscrewed the bolt with the yellow cap on it, the olive is pre installed inside so you just have to pull out the the yellow cap when everything is ready an fit your brake line into it and just tighten the bolt and youre done
What a wonderful how-to video for what I need to in order to switch over to the Shimano XT brakes. Really appreciate this as I have Giant Trance Advanced 1 bike. Hmm, I suppose that my 2019 bike here also does not have internal routing cables like your 2018 Reign. Thank you for the details and tips in this video, liked and sub'd!
Thank you for the kind words. It's really appreciated. Good luck with your new brakes.
Thank you for clarification on the olive. That, in my opinion is the most important part of the installation. Other videos just briefly shove the line into the screw and hope for the best.
It's pretty important.
There is no need to disassemble. New brake lever has olive preinstalled and you just need to stick cable in. That's also stated in Shimano manual.
@@martinmacko7297 yeah good luck with that technique. Last thing I need to worry about are my brakes dripping fluid...
Really want to replace my e bike brakes to a 4 piston set up … thanks
I just switched to TRP-Evo's. They are amazing. Much more control than the Shimano's.
Very helpful!
Cool, thank you very much!
Thanks bro!
At 6:00 roughly you remove the rear brakes. I always remove the pads first so there is no chance of getting fluid on them. If you do, the pads are toast.
You should definitely remove the pads if you are going to use them again. I don't plan on using these brakes anytime soon, so I wasn't worried about it.
If they are toast at least you can eat them then....
Thanks Man !
Just transfer the banjo line from the original xt 2 Pistons and put it on the 4 piston caliper then bleed the line they use the same brake levers and banjo single piston or 4 piston.
I'm looking to do this. I just want to buy the m8120 caliper to save money. Will it come with the banjo or will i need to buy seperate?
You want to use the 2 piston lever, with the 4 piston caliper? I don't know if that will work. The new four piston lever is shaped differently.
@@uosocal it works. it must work!
If he was replacing xt m8000 then it will work, but won't be as good as it could be. The m8000 is renowned for poor levers and random bite points. Part of the reason to upgrade to the m8120 is to get the new lever design, the new lever also runs the two pot version m8100,, the same applies to the new SLX lever it runs both the 7100/7120.
You could of used the same hose just fitted the caliper at one end and the lever at the other saving you removing the internally routed hose .
Your plungers the wrong way there bud
There is no need to remove the brass ferrule or loosen the collar. Simply remove the yellow plug, install the hose through the collar and the ferrule. Don’t waste time doing this and make sure the hose is fully seated. Tighten the collar to spec. Easy peasy. Engineers are pretty smart and dummy down the installation to prevent error. (Like calling a brass ferrule an olive 🤣). Seriously, problems occur when we try to overthink the process.
Great video with easy to follow steps to install the 8120 brakes.
Quick Q: what difference have you noticed so far between the 4piston 8120 braking power vs the 2 piston you had previously?
I weigh 198 lbs (90kgs).
And what rotors and size(s) are you using?
Appreciate your response!
There's a big difference in stopping power, and a lot less brake fade on longer dh trails. I'm running 203's front and rear.
Total newbee here. If you shorten the hose (you did not show this), do you need to take out the metal thing at the end of the hose and put i back into the shortened hose?
Definitely.
@@uosocal There was one i the box.Did not look carefully first time.
10:39 min, the washer arrangement is false. The ball side must point to the mating ball shaped washer side. From Frame to bolt head: One concave washer, one convex washer, the brake, one convex washer, one concave washer. The purpose of these washers is to allow for angular adjustment and they are usually used at V-brakes. For disk brakes they are not needed as the surfaces have a 90deg angle.
I just bought just the caliper. Mine doesn't have the banjo bolt hole. It looks like something screws into it straight on and not from the side. Super odd.
That is weird. Could be a different model.
Does the rear brake come with the bleed cup and fluid or do you buy that separate
Those things are separate, but definitely worth buying.
10:39 wrongly oriented washers
Can i ask have your old brakeset? Which i havent... im assemlnling parts to part and im willing to ccept any 2nd hand part to complete my bike
I put them on my son's bike.
Why didn’t you keep your old cables/gubbins and lever? If your old 2 piston setup was M8100 then there is only one type of lever for both 2pot and 4pot, it seems an unnecessary exercise unless you wanted all new?
Brake lines get old and dirty. Also, the new 8120 lever is different.
@@uosocal that’s strange the Shimano website doesn’t appear to spec the M8120 lever however it can be found on Google, I wonder why that is? bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deore-xt-m8100.html
Just use the same hose.
13:53 I see than my cable and your cable has some membrane/seal so the fluid does not come off. You need to remove it before connecting to the brake handle? Or it’s pushed automatically when you connect it all together ? But then, this membrane will stay in the cable so that’s not good I think…
I don't think there is any type of membrane holding the oil in the brake line. Just connect the line and bleed the small amount of air out.
@@uosocal i think there is because I’m looking at it. Saint brakes. Plus they are bleeded so oil would come out easily if there would be no seal/ membrane
I would remove it then. You will only need to bleed a little air then.
Hi I have the same membrane type cover over my xt brake line can I just push it into the lever ?
@@LeecMTB you don't want this seal to be floaring inside your braking system ;D just shorten the wire and you will get rid of the seal at the same time. You probably have to shorten the wire anyway so - problem solved, right?
Is it necessary to take the olive out? Is it not enough just to unscrew the bolt and insert the hose and then tighten it back again?
I like to. You want to be sure the hose is inserted all the way into the olive. I did this once without taking it out, and oil leaked out.
Omg man you don't remove the olive. The brake line just sits directly into the lever
What grips are those
The company is named TAG. not sure what model.
Why didnt you just undo the clamp and not take the grip off…?
Sir, your saddle is not set correctly - tilted too far forward.
That's ths way I like it.
I just love hearing Americans use metric sizing
When it comes to tools, it's so much easier
Nice shirt
14:26 you dont have to.
I'm not sure what you are referring to? Could you explain?
@@uosocal i mean, you dont have to pull the olive out the lever. Stick the Pin in to the black cable and all in the lever When ever Things fine you dont need to bleed.
I do it that way, so everyone can see all of the parts involved. Either way, you should still do a quick bleed.
@@uosocal you can see the right way in the Manuals from shimano.