I've often seen the calibration when near 1A to be very different from everything else. In this case, I'd toss out the 1.06A draw that is reading 1.69 and just do the numbers with the other values. My equivalent DIY spreadsheet suggests a scale factor of 197 with a 11.5mV offset doing that.
Follow the guide for your particular flight controller. On that FC, the ESC and battery grounds are all the same pad. The copper is one complete piece underneath the mask. This is the case with most PDBs. You can always check continuity with a multimeter.
I wonder if the amp reading on a Watt meter is accurate enough- if so it already has the connectors in place and doesn’t need the adapter cable shown here Besides that question many thanks again Darren for a very practical demonstration
It’s not quite accurate enough. You can see in the video. It is pulling slightly more amps when it has warmed up. The multimeter, or a DC clamp meter around the battery positive. Will give the best accuracy.
As Ruby rightly said. It doesn’t matter how many cells in series the battery has. This is calibrating sensors on the flight controller. So the calibration is good of anything you put through them 🙂
You possibly could. I know ISDT have big discharges where you can set the current. But I don’t believe they’re as easy to change the current on as just clicking button. I believe you need to use a smart phone app. Plus they do cost twice the price.
Well, I see one important problem, sensors like INA139 are non-linear, so it's impossible to have well calibrated current sensor in whole range. Is it possible to have compensation in inav?
Hi Darren, I have just purchased the DL24/P. How do you recommend using it if you have a fc already mounted on a plane? Should I disconnect the esc? What other precautions should I take?
This is a genius solution! Thank you Darren
you could also use a lipo charger with a charging battery connected for creating the various load amperages. just change the charging amps as you go.
This method could be interesting because it exploits something we all already have at home. Or am I wrong? Could you explain this process better?
Thank you so much, that is exactly my probblem of the week👌
You’re welcome 😊
Great video, and thanks for sharing your calculator tool!
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
That's so great! Thank you very much!!!!
You're very welcome 👍🏻
Thanks
I've often seen the calibration when near 1A to be very different from everything else. In this case, I'd toss out the 1.06A draw that is reading 1.69 and just do the numbers with the other values. My equivalent DIY spreadsheet suggests a scale factor of 197 with a 11.5mV offset doing that.
Is correct at 9:05 the wiring scheme? Why you put battery ground on the ground of esc?
Follow the guide for your particular flight controller.
On that FC, the ESC and battery grounds are all the same pad. The copper is one complete piece underneath the mask. This is the case with most PDBs. You can always check continuity with a multimeter.
Great video, just what I needed. Will the calculator on your site work with betaflight too?
Yes. There is a value that works in BetaFlight and ArduPilot.
I wonder if the amp reading on a Watt meter is accurate enough- if so it already has the connectors in place and doesn’t need the adapter cable shown here
Besides that question many thanks again Darren for a very practical demonstration
It’s not quite accurate enough. You can see in the video. It is pulling slightly more amps when it has warmed up. The multimeter, or a DC clamp meter around the battery positive. Will give the best accuracy.
Do you have to have different current scales for different batteries? For example one scale for a 3S and one for a 4S or is it a one size fits all?
One size fits all
As Ruby rightly said. It doesn’t matter how many cells in series the battery has. This is calibrating sensors on the flight controller. So the calibration is good of anything you put through them 🙂
Wonder if you could use a rc battery discharger to do this where you can set the exact drain - mind you, they are not cheap :)
You possibly could. I know ISDT have big discharges where you can set the current. But I don’t believe they’re as easy to change the current on as just clicking button. I believe you need to use a smart phone app. Plus they do cost twice the price.
@@MrD Yep, correct - I use an App for my IDT discharger but I bet it would work
I use a std watt meter, reverse motors and set at 10 amps. Cheap, takes 5 min.
Well, I see one important problem, sensors like INA139 are non-linear, so it's impossible to have well calibrated current sensor in whole range. Is it possible to have compensation in inav?
hello, is it possible to do the calibration under inav for a fc aio drone?
This option is good for an airplane. And how to calibrate the ESC 4-in-1 of a quadcopter with this device? Thanks
Hi Darren, I have just purchased the DL24/P. How do you recommend using it if you have a fc already mounted on a plane? Should I disconnect the esc? What other precautions should I take?
Disconecting the ESC is all you should need to do. Maybe disconnect the video system to save it from heating up too much.
I'm counting three flippedifloppies in the background. Have you been on errands lately ? 🤔
One is yet to be finished and the other two need a little TLC 🤣 I’ve mostly been flying ARs recently.
I love the shirt.
Darren where are you?
Even trickier than the previous method. Not for me 🥹
How come? Surely this is easier than spinning the prop next to your face?
@@MrDI mean it is just to complicate for me but I guess it is just me. Not meant to be polemic at all Darren.
@@probante not at all. I was just curious that’s all. It’s good to hear people’s opinions 👍🏻