With 3 sides enclosed,it would blow away with strong winds coming from the entry for sure. Like the umbrella affect. Parachute effect. I lived through 3 hurricanes and had to rebuild after. The metal building held together with metal screws did not hold up well in the wind like the wood reinforced building with wood siding. Somehow the metal screws with every wind gust shook the metal screws loose which caused the building to bend in the wind and collapse. The wood buildings with plyboard siding , gave them sheer strength and held up very well. The best were concrete buildings,hollow tile, and then cement stucco next to wood framed buildings.
Just FYI you can add strength to the structure if u run some aluminum or 1/8 strap steel between all your vertical posts n roof beams! So your opening end top to bottom n ur closed end top to bottom n middle horizontal in the middle of your worried about wind! As far as snow load you can use ur strap steel in ur roof trusses! Call it over engineering but if u want it to last for a bit this is a great idea! Thanks for sharing great job!
To support Mike's message about strength of this setup, I used Mike's video to add PBR to my HF Garage. It is 9,200' elevation in Colorado and held up to very strong winds and significant snow. Mine is not on concrete, mounted to old redwood 2x6 boards as a base anchored with concrete blocks. I added the corner pieces and kept the HF fabric roll up door. I added 2x2 purlins to the roof to support heavy snow. Here is a video about mine, hope these help others to do this. I appreciate Mike sharing this. th-cam.com/video/0zKvwD3JLpQ/w-d-xo.html
I think you have done a great job for turning a cheap flexable tent into a solid structure, i just bought myself one of these garages and am planning on buying a 2nd one and as soon as the canvas wears out i am going to do the same thing with mine but instead of shortening the center poles i am going to add a couple feet to each side of the roof so that i can get to 12-14 feet wide and i am going to do the 1x3 furring strips across the poles so i can run my roof panels up and down, because i do live in northern indiana and we get a bit of snow and lots of rain so i think it would help the snow come off easier, but i will be running the walls the same way you have. our code in city limits is that if the building is not a livable structure and is not on a foundation we have no limit on sizes, but if it is a prebuilt yard barn the limit is 160 square feet. great ideas!
@@mikesrandomvideos i have some galanized fence posts that are the same size as the poles and seem to be a lot thicker and heavier that i am going to replace the poles with, so only think i think i will be using is the connectors only, and i am going to go ahead and stretch it out to 20 feet long as that is a what i can get the best deal on the panels on is 20 foot length, but by the time i am done it will be 12x20 and i will be framing in the back wall so i can add in a 8 foot wide roll up garage door, since i will be adding a extra foot to the height with the new poles :) but im not going to do anything until the canvas is bad, get all my moneys worth first :)
You could probably use roof flashing for the corners, or get someone that is installing a seamless gutter to run out some sheets that are bent at 90 degrees instead of as gutters.
yea for sure I do have the corners and I will be putting them up soon then shooting foam into them to fill the gaps. It also will help make it stronger.
Thanks for sharing. After watching your video and seeing how you can strengthen this size HF unit, I’m wondering why they couldn’t make a kit a little bit wider. It would be much more useful if it was just a bit bigger.
yea for sure I dont think the snow is much heavier than 230 lbs. but even if it is I also had 80mph winds a few weeks ago Broke a 2200lb cable holding my sail shades. But the garages are untouched.
I'd like to see the corner panels you said that fit the corners and strengthen them. Then you mentioned about using spray foam to seal the corners better. What would that look like?
Been wanting to do this but only if I could find the answer to this question. We all know when screwing to a tube it has to be dead on in the center or it will slip. How do you manage to do that? and without seeing through the material? Pre-drilling seems to be a solution but I would imagine how difficult it would be to line up the holes with such size of material (I'm doing 18 ft sheets). Thanks
you do 1 sheet at a time starting at the middle of the roof. you can easily see where the tube is. Might have slipped one or 2 times on the whole roof and sides. I just used self tappers. no predrilling. Just dont put the screws too close to the bump on the pbr panel so water wont puddle next to the screw. It does not leak either. If you do get a leak put a little #1 silicon dot on there will last for years without leaking.
Excellent idea! If I don’t need as much strength, I’m wondering if aluminum roof sheets would work, and turned the other way so everything slides off the roof.
A friend of mine had building much larger than this with an aluminum roof. Lasted a pretty long time until we had a pretty bad hail storm (Ohio). Leaked like sieve when it rained afterwards. In the sunlight you could see thousands of tiny splits in the material from the hail denting the material during impact, kinda cool looking in sunlight from the inside but no good for keeping the weather out !! This was his work shop so it need to be dry inside.
I live in southern Alabama near the coast so i really need strong. Like we regularly get 50-70 mph winds and in a hurricane can get higher than 130mph. I'm wanting it to keep my rabbits in so it has to be safe for them.
What is "EMT"? You speak of? Agree, adding rafter poles or 2x4s to create stronger roof for snow load is a good idea. But with the sheet metal I think it's probably fine. But should rake the roof after snow.
Electrical metallic tubing (EMT) sometimes referred to as thin wall electrical conduit. 1/2" EMT (10' lengths) are less than $10 each at the big box stores.
Wonder if you could add metal sheets running the other way on top of the ones that are already there, just for the roof? So you'd have the ones that are already there for the strength and then another layer on top, running the other way, to shed snow easier? I love that you did this! I was thinking about doing something like this and was glad to find your video!
I modified my installation so the channels of roof panels run downhill. Just needed some 2x2 purlins to support them. Thanks to Mike's video it's very simple.
Man I dont how I found your channel but man all I see is volkswagens. Hell yea. Somehow the first video I saw was about the metal shed and i saw some vw's in the background. I'm gonna check out your channel and hopefully you have some vw videos.
check My Mike F channel that is dedicated to the vws you see. mostly. this channel is about random stuff. But also has some vw stuff as well. sometimes I put different search content in a similar video to see what is getting the searches.
@Mike if you were going to make a door for these garages could you make a door out of corrugated aluminium that swings left so you can lock it? I thought an EMT frame and more corrugated aluminium as the door?
@@mikesrandomvideos i wonder if i could also add some 2x2's/2x3's then put panels cause then i could jerry rig more insulation to it. I dont have enough carpentry skill to build a shelter from the ground up but i can modify any shed. Your idea is opening my mind to more possibilities, thank you sir.
yea you could do that. I built the structure in just a few hours. Then put the 2x2s in the walls and ceiling to put more insulation in and maybe drywall to that. But the steel structure from HF is super easy to do this. I made everything in probably 4 hours once the concrete was poured.
Just curious, are you not able to get a permit for a large metal building for the property where you can put things under one roof? So much more convenient to have a larger open space with the same sq footage. On the other hand, if you can't, it's a different story.
Yes u can frame the open end with 2x4 n hang ur garage door on the 2x4 frame! U can insulate it with high density foam if u really want to go crazy u can run electrical thru schedule 40 pvc! Cheap garage for under $1500.00
not hard to run the trim like that. That is how they do it all the time on these. there are gaps. No lateral strength if they are vertical. Try It you will see.
The real question is how do you get the bus in and out? Do you just eat some spinach and Popeye it in and out? Lol. Looks strong as hell to me. If it ever fails you'll know it's not strong enough,as long as it holds who cares.
I’m surprised the plastic poles can hold the weight of the panels. I work with metal and those steel panels are fucking heavy lol. The rubber grommets will eventually rust out and leak as well.
Don't feed the trolls. Your idea works If someone wants to do it another way they should.
With 3 sides enclosed,it would blow away with strong winds coming from the entry for sure. Like the umbrella affect. Parachute effect. I lived through 3 hurricanes and had to rebuild after. The metal building held together with metal screws did not hold up well in the wind like the wood reinforced building with wood siding. Somehow the metal screws with every wind gust shook the metal screws loose which caused the building to bend in the wind and collapse. The wood buildings with plyboard siding , gave them sheer strength and held up very well. The best were concrete buildings,hollow tile, and then cement stucco next to wood framed buildings.
Welp hurricanes and Tornados suck but we don’t have em here in CALIFORNIA.
I used to live in socal and norcal, im in Alabama now, i plan on trying the harborfrieght and corrugated metal panel idea.
great hope these videos help. I have more on how to build this step by step.
The Amish built me one of these with 2 × 4's. Had no problems with snow because of metal heating up.
Just FYI you can add strength to the structure if u run some aluminum or 1/8 strap steel between all your vertical posts n roof beams! So your opening end top to bottom n ur closed end top to bottom n middle horizontal in the middle of your worried about wind! As far as snow load you can use ur strap steel in ur roof trusses! Call it over engineering but if u want it to last for a bit this is a great idea! Thanks for sharing great job!
I rarely get snow in Alabama, still like this setup
To support Mike's message about strength of this setup, I used Mike's video to add PBR to my HF Garage. It is 9,200' elevation in Colorado and held up to very strong winds and significant snow. Mine is not on concrete, mounted to old redwood 2x6 boards as a base anchored with concrete blocks. I added the corner pieces and kept the HF fabric roll up door. I added 2x2 purlins to the roof to support heavy snow. Here is a video about mine, hope these help others to do this. I appreciate Mike sharing this. th-cam.com/video/0zKvwD3JLpQ/w-d-xo.html
you can add reinforcements ; cables/buttress/struts etc on the outside if you want.
I think you have done a great job for turning a cheap flexable tent into a solid structure, i just bought myself one of these garages and am planning on buying a 2nd one and as soon as the canvas wears out i am going to do the same thing with mine but instead of shortening the center poles i am going to add a couple feet to each side of the roof so that i can get to 12-14 feet wide and i am going to do the 1x3 furring strips across the poles so i can run my roof panels up and down, because i do live in northern indiana and we get a bit of snow and lots of rain so i think it would help the snow come off easier, but i will be running the walls the same way you have. our code in city limits is that if the building is not a livable structure and is not on a foundation we have no limit on sizes, but if it is a prebuilt yard barn the limit is 160 square feet. great ideas!
you wont be disappointed. just make sure you make the poles vertical. that is why it is so strong with the panels just like I have mine. horizontal
@@mikesrandomvideos i have some galanized fence posts that are the same size as the poles and seem to be a lot thicker and heavier that i am going to replace the poles with, so only think i think i will be using is the connectors only, and i am going to go ahead and stretch it out to 20 feet long as that is a what i can get the best deal on the panels on is 20 foot length, but by the time i am done it will be 12x20 and i will be framing in the back wall so i can add in a 8 foot wide roll up garage door, since i will be adding a extra foot to the height with the new poles :) but im not going to do anything until the canvas is bad, get all my moneys worth first :)
You could probably use roof flashing for the corners, or get someone that is installing a seamless gutter to run out some sheets that are bent at 90 degrees instead of as gutters.
yea for sure I do have the corners and I will be putting them up soon then shooting foam into them to fill the gaps. It also will help make it stronger.
Great looking VW's.
I have a grey one I use as a hay barn it has a green tarp on it. live in northern maine with lots of snow
does the tarp hold the snow or do you need to keep brushing it off?
Nice bus! I have a 67 😎🤙🏼🙌🏼
Cost is my main concern . Great job guy. So white poles are better ? Please help me find the panels in Englewood Florida
I added plastic lattice all around a metal roof and got lawn furniture table to..chairs ...tv.. sink area.. grill 12x 20 one like this one
Thanks for sharing.
After watching your video and seeing how you can strengthen this size HF unit, I’m wondering why they couldn’t make a kit a little bit wider. It would be much more useful if it was just a bit bigger.
I agree for snow load the ridges going the other way would give more strength for sno weight
yea for sure I dont think the snow is much heavier than 230 lbs. but even if it is I also had 80mph winds a few weeks ago Broke a 2200lb cable holding my sail shades. But the garages are untouched.
Yea at the time I was almost 230 and I jumped on the roof. way stronger than it looks.
Looks really nice. Great Job.
I'd like to see the corner panels you said that fit the corners and strengthen them. Then you mentioned about using spray foam to seal the corners better. What would that look like?
How thick is the pad and is there rebar in it
Thanks for sharing this
I'm in Central CA Foothills and would really like to build one .
Thanks for taking three scary out of the project
awsome I travel through there all the time. this will help keep the hot sun off.
Been wanting to do this but only if I could find the answer to this question. We all know when screwing to a tube it has to be dead on in the center or it will slip. How do you manage to do that? and without seeing through the material? Pre-drilling seems to be a solution but I would imagine how difficult it would be to line up the holes with such size of material (I'm doing 18 ft sheets). Thanks
you do 1 sheet at a time starting at the middle of the roof. you can easily see where the tube is. Might have slipped one or 2 times on the whole roof and sides. I just used self tappers. no predrilling. Just dont put the screws too close to the bump on the pbr panel so water wont puddle next to the screw. It does not leak either. If you do get a leak put a little #1 silicon dot on there will last for years without leaking.
I added long rebarb.. hammered them into ground and rapped metal wire to Rebarb and metal poles .. to hold mine down...
Looks good...last long time 👍 fraction of the price of a carport.
Great idea bro came out nice i think i might try buildin one
the concrete is the hardest part. once you have that it takes about 4 hours to build if your handy.
Add ridged foil faced thermax insulation and it won't condensate drip inside. Cooler and wärmer.
good to know thanks for letting me know about that.
Excellent idea! If I don’t need as much strength, I’m wondering if aluminum roof sheets would work, and turned the other way so everything slides off the roof.
A friend of mine had building much larger than this with an aluminum roof. Lasted a pretty long time until we had a pretty bad hail storm (Ohio). Leaked like sieve when it rained afterwards. In the sunlight you could see thousands of tiny splits in the material from the hail denting the material during impact, kinda cool looking in sunlight from the inside but no good for keeping the weather out !! This was his work shop so it need to be dry inside.
I live in southern Alabama near the coast so i really need strong. Like we regularly get 50-70 mph winds and in a hurricane can get higher than 130mph. I'm wanting it to keep my rabbits in so it has to be safe for them.
Í would use a mig welder for strength and permanent structure weld corner supports.
What is "EMT"? You speak of? Agree, adding rafter poles or 2x4s to create stronger roof for snow load is a good idea. But with the sheet metal I think it's probably fine. But should rake the roof after snow.
Electrical metallic tubing (EMT) sometimes referred to as thin wall electrical conduit. 1/2" EMT (10' lengths) are less than $10 each at the big box stores.
Did you pour the concrete slab base to fit the garage or was it already existing? I like it and that should help rigidity and wind stability. 👍🏻👍🏻
Wonder if you could add metal sheets running the other way on top of the ones that are already there, just for the roof? So you'd have the ones that are already there for the strength and then another layer on top, running the other way, to shed snow easier?
I love that you did this! I was thinking about doing something like this and was glad to find your video!
maybe. it is pretty steep though
I modified my installation so the channels of roof panels run downhill. Just needed some 2x2 purlins to support them. Thanks to Mike's video it's very simple.
Nice job! and thank you for sharing! keep up the good work
Man I dont how I found your channel but man all I see is volkswagens. Hell yea. Somehow the first video I saw was about the metal shed and i saw some vw's in the background. I'm gonna check out your channel and hopefully you have some vw videos.
check My Mike F channel that is dedicated to the vws you see. mostly. this channel is about random stuff. But also has some vw stuff as well. sometimes I put different search content in a similar video to see what is getting the searches.
Try backing it in your closer to excit out..or readd a door gate on the side type to get out of your car
I’ll be doing this but roof has to be verticals for letting tree and dirt stuff slide off.
@Mike if you were going to make a door for these garages could you make a door out of corrugated aluminium that swings left so you can lock it? I thought an EMT frame and more corrugated aluminium as the door?
That looks good man. Nice job.
thanks for watching. love these I think I am building one more. ha ha.
I would so build 6 of these on my property for storage and use one as home gym
awsome I would use the 2 inch foam with the foil on it and attach it to the inside for insulation for the gym.
@@mikesrandomvideos i wonder if i could also add some 2x2's/2x3's then put panels cause then i could jerry rig more insulation to it.
I dont have enough carpentry skill to build a shelter from the ground up but i can modify any shed. Your idea is opening my mind to more possibilities, thank you sir.
yea you could do that. I built the structure in just a few hours. Then put the 2x2s in the walls and ceiling to put more insulation in and maybe drywall to that. But the steel structure from HF is super easy to do this. I made everything in probably 4 hours once the concrete was poured.
Nice video. Can't you kip the sides the way you have it, but do the roof in down facing ribs ?
yea you could but you would want to put more support into the roof. it would not be nearly as strong.
Just curious, are you not able to get a permit for a large metal building for the property where you can put things under one roof? So much more convenient to have a larger open space with the same sq footage. On the other hand, if you can't, it's a different story.
My city would not allow permit for metal building. but for under permit size it is OK.
I like your metal way better than wood .
Can you put a garage door on this? Am thinking of building two together for a firewood kiln
Yes u can frame the open end with 2x4 n hang ur garage door on the 2x4 frame! U can insulate it with high density foam if u really want to go crazy u can run electrical thru schedule 40 pvc! Cheap garage for under $1500.00
Put the tarp on first, then metal, so you have a door. Ha,ha. You didn't think I knew that.
good one. yea Might try that on the next one.
Nice Bus!
gonna be a pain to run trim on it that way, the metal should be vertical...good job tho
not hard to run the trim like that. That is how they do it all the time on these. there are gaps. No lateral strength if they are vertical. Try It you will see.
Looks good to me
How many panels for the white poles box from Harbour Freight
I think it was 9....then I got 3 8ft
You should have or can add a door or aswing gate to get out on the side...
Make it stronger by putting screws in the overlap at 2ft. On center
considered that but it is plenty strong righ now. wind wont blow this one over. check out my strength video.
Screw the shelters. I wanna see the V-Dubs! 😁🤣👍
the vehicles have a nice shine, how do you do it? nice work!
Sell me that bus CHEAP! 😁
Thinking of making two horse barns with the harbor freight ones . Also a dog kennel and chicken coop
great for all of those. and super cheap. better than one of those tuff sheds. too
Really tempted to do this with my tarp garage. UV killed the original tarp.
really sturdy way stronger than it looks.
I added a roof of metal to my 10x 10
Looks strong to me
it is we had 80 mph gusts a month ago and held up like a charm. Broke 2200 lb cables holding up my sail shades but garages are untouched.
How much work was it for you to get the panels up on top?
We used 2 people they are kind of heavy the top one maybe could be done with one person but the sides of the roof and side walls it is pretty heavy.
I made a swing open light PVC gate
great
People don’t have a clue, don’t waste your time...Also, the guys who comment the most, never build shit..
The real question is how do you get the bus in and out? Do you just eat some spinach and Popeye it in and out? Lol. Looks strong as hell to me. If it ever fails you'll know it's not strong enough,as long as it holds who cares.
I’m surprised the plastic poles can hold the weight of the panels. I work with metal and those steel panels are fucking heavy lol. The rubber grommets will eventually rust out and leak as well.
poles are metal steel. FYI
U got a lot of property to be building random garages and sheds
'66 Beetle?
j channel back to back at the corners
Steel is always stronger
Nice Bus!