I came across this channel a year ago when I was buying a PM and subbed but haven't been following along. I'm glad to see what this channel has become 😂
I did the same thing with my van, used alphaodb app with odblink mx+ odb dongle to do a proxy alignment and even got it to stop flashing! You need the yellow cable to get to the cluster network. Good stuff, saved a bunch of money doing it myself.
Hi Kip, Someone told me the alarm speaker is in the instrument cluster. Is it fairly easy to take the back off the cluster to see the speaker? I'd like to mess around, either pull it off or desolder it from the board, add some wires and a potentiometer to turn that noise down or off as needed. & thank you for the video, it's a great start to my mod. I'm adding neodymium bar magnets to my seatbelt clasp receivers tomorrow.
@@promastersonly1419 I just got done doing the mod, my 2019 still had the piezoelectric speaker in the instrument cluster. I posted pics & video of it on fb, Ram Promaster Owners. & thank you for the reply!
Can I contact you with a problem I'm having with my promaster codes poo19/poo18/pooc/ New motor swap..will those codes do damage to the motor if driven ??
My cluster, and van have 135K and both work fine, sort of. A few years ago the plastic face started to crack. I now have 3 cracks in the face coming up from the bottom about 1-1/2 inches long. I also noticed on dark days when you turn on the cruise control, some of the other indicator / warning lights glow very dimly. Everything works fine, I'm wondering if its related to face cracking. I'm of the school that says, if it works, don't fix it. Any thoughts?
Havent seen that one. Excessive heat? Citrus based cleaning products? Demonic possession? The lights leaking to other icons is somewhat common, and yeah some do it more than others. I too would chose to ignore it.
Do you have the plastic cover piece that goes across the left bottom side of the passenger seat where the seat belt buckle goes behind and attached to the seat for a 2014 in that pile of junk in the back of smashy? If not do you know what the part is even called so I can search for one? I cannot figure out what the heck that stupid piece is called to search for it.
I know the piece you are talking about, but I also dont know what to call it. Seat trim? Seat side panel? E brake cover? No clue. I dont have any complete seats that I want to make incomplete. Worst case, search for a seat in a nearby junkyard. Go to said junkyard. Describe the part you want, and they will sell it to you.
@@promastersonly1419 no kippy you are confusing lubing speedometer cables with the camera cable the proctologist is going to ram up in you to see all the foreign objects that are lodged up in you along with the gerbil that had babies running around in side you
I am looking at purchasing a 2014 PM, the odometer and speedometer both aren't functioning and it isn't digital gahhh. Will keep looking to figure out if this is fixable
If you were to take that to a shop for pre-purchase inspection, the actual miles on the van are stored in the body control module, so you can at least know if the guy is trying to bullshit you. My guess is there is a wiring issue to the cluster - hell, you might bring a spare cluster with you since they can be had for well under $50 and swapped out in minutes.
@@raymonddriggers Check the connection on the alternator. I had charging trouble and it turned out to be a high resistance connection. I disconnected it and shined everything up with sandpaper and my problems went away. I was able to deduce that was where the problem was by putting my voltmeter probe on the alternator terminal and noted it was almost 1 volt higher than the battery voltage.
I've never done it, but with the cluster out it's just a few clips to remove the clear front panel. Even if you broken them getting it off, you could easily glue or tape it back together and reuse it. I'd go for it!
I'm working on this right now. I have a 2023. I've removed the cluster. There are now 2 wire connections. There are Torx screws in addition to the clips. They're smaller than T10's so I just ordered a set of smaller ones to take this off. Hoping it's just one shroud to get to the front clear plastic. Previous owner used some heavy duty cleaner and my clear plastic is schmeered/cloudy. I'll let you know what I find out.
@@mtnbikur Yes, let me know. Haven't had to do anything on the newer van, with the digital screen. I'd bet though that the way to get the cluster in and out is identical though, since lots of stuff wasn't changed from the old model to the new.
You can remove the plastic face. It involves a couple of shrouds that use almost a dozen T8 torx bit screws and a few clips each. The clear plastic is glued to the inner of those two shrouds, so it's not a stand-alone piece. I've put the outer shroud on without the inner shroud/clear plastic and it's sturdy and secure, but your gauges wouldn't be protected at all. With the digital dash on mine, I'm not sure how much of an issue that is. With analog gauges, you might be more cautious. I've ordered some acrylic polish and will try that before putting it back together without the clear plastic.
Thank you for that tip. A new instrument cluster is $400-$500.
I came across this channel a year ago when I was buying a PM and subbed but haven't been following along. I'm glad to see what this channel has become 😂
Still needs more dick jokes.
Well. Another fine video showing me another reason to live my work van. See you next week my guru.
I did the same thing with my van, used alphaodb app with odblink mx+ odb dongle to do a proxy alignment and even got it to stop flashing! You need the yellow cable to get to the cluster network. Good stuff, saved a bunch of money doing it myself.
im new to the obdmx+ ,dose the yellow cable plug into the obd port under dash first, than the mx plugs into the other end were do i buy yellow cable?
@@franksaliba7961 yup, it just remaps to the other can channel on the odb port. Pretty basic really.
Holy crap. Way mines going I’ll be glad to make 100,000. Hope to know more soon
Thanks, mine just stopped working
I was wondering about this. Can you change the color of the display at all or change bulbs?
Looks like an easy way to help run wires up to the stereo.....
Remove the cluster :)
Hi Kip, Someone told me the alarm speaker is in the instrument cluster. Is it fairly easy to take the back off the cluster to see the speaker? I'd like to mess around, either pull it off or desolder it from the board, add some wires and a potentiometer to turn that noise down or off as needed. & thank you for the video, it's a great start to my mod. I'm adding neodymium bar magnets to my seatbelt clasp receivers tomorrow.
I could easily be wrong, but i believe there is no extra speaker, it just uses the stereo for alarm sounds.
@@promastersonly1419 I just got done doing the mod, my 2019 still had the piezoelectric speaker in the instrument cluster. I posted pics & video of it on fb, Ram Promaster Owners. & thank you for the reply!
@@craigsmithx couldnt find the post. Shout me out in it’s comments.
@@promastersonly1419 as soon as they approve the post, will do.
Thanks very helpful
What a freaking cluster!
Total cluster! General Cluster!
Can I contact you with a problem I'm having with my promaster codes poo19/poo18/pooc/
New motor swap..will those codes do damage to the motor if driven ??
email me at promastersonly@gmail.com
My cluster, and van have 135K and both work fine, sort of. A few years ago the plastic face started to crack. I now have 3 cracks in the face coming up from the bottom about 1-1/2 inches long. I also noticed on dark days when you turn on the cruise control, some of the other indicator / warning lights glow very dimly. Everything works fine, I'm wondering if its related to face cracking. I'm of the school that says, if it works, don't fix it. Any thoughts?
Havent seen that one. Excessive heat? Citrus based cleaning products? Demonic possession?
The lights leaking to other icons is somewhat common, and yeah some do it more than others.
I too would chose to ignore it.
Do you have the plastic cover piece that goes across the left bottom side of the passenger seat where the seat belt buckle goes behind and attached to the seat for a 2014 in that pile of junk in the back of smashy? If not do you know what the part is even called so I can search for one? I cannot figure out what the heck that stupid piece is called to search for it.
I know the piece you are talking about, but I also dont know what to call it. Seat trim? Seat side panel? E brake cover? No clue.
I dont have any complete seats that I want to make incomplete.
Worst case, search for a seat in a nearby junkyard. Go to said junkyard. Describe the part you want, and they will sell it to you.
My '73 Olds odometer (and speedometer) stopped around 100k.
Back in the day of speedometer cables.
Tell us more I’m sure kippy would appreciate putting the pew pewr away from his head for a few minutes
“Lubing my speedo cable” should be a name for some kind of sex act.
@@promastersonly1419 no kippy you are confusing lubing speedometer cables with the camera cable the proctologist is going to ram up in you to see all the foreign objects that are lodged up in you along with the gerbil that had babies running around in side you
I am looking at purchasing a 2014 PM, the odometer and speedometer both aren't functioning and it isn't digital gahhh. Will keep looking to figure out if this is fixable
If you were to take that to a shop for pre-purchase inspection, the actual miles on the van are stored in the body control module, so you can at least know if the guy is trying to bullshit you. My guess is there is a wiring issue to the cluster - hell, you might bring a spare cluster with you since they can be had for well under $50 and swapped out in minutes.
@@promastersonly1419 God you are brilliant. I'll look for one now. Going to go see the van again tonight.
search with car-part.com@@jeremyjernigan105
Have and alarm stop with two head lights or dash board indecated .. after I recharge battery
Sorry, missed this question.That's the indicator for a taillight being out.
Whats up with pcm? Kippy
How do you mean?
@@promastersonly1419 my pcm will that affect my alternator charging?
Yes, the PCM (powertrain control module - the engine computer) controls charging. Not related to the cluster though. @@raymonddriggers
@@promastersonly1419what i mean is would it make my battery light come on and cause my battery not to charge “pcm”?
@@raymonddriggers Check the connection on the alternator. I had charging trouble and it turned out to be a high resistance connection. I disconnected it and shined everything up with sandpaper and my problems went away. I was able to deduce that was where the problem was by putting my voltmeter probe on the alternator terminal and noted it was almost 1 volt higher than the battery voltage.
DOES ANYONE KNOW IF YOU CAN YOU REMOVE THE PLASTIC FACE ON THESE CLUSTERS ??? ( caps just for attention,lol)
I've never done it, but with the cluster out it's just a few clips to remove the clear front panel. Even if you broken them getting it off, you could easily glue or tape it back together and reuse it. I'd go for it!
I'm working on this right now. I have a 2023. I've removed the cluster. There are now 2 wire connections. There are Torx screws in addition to the clips. They're smaller than T10's so I just ordered a set of smaller ones to take this off. Hoping it's just one shroud to get to the front clear plastic. Previous owner used some heavy duty cleaner and my clear plastic is schmeered/cloudy. I'll let you know what I find out.
@@mtnbikur Yes, let me know. Haven't had to do anything on the newer van, with the digital screen. I'd bet though that the way to get the cluster in and out is identical though, since lots of stuff wasn't changed from the old model to the new.
@@promastersonly1419, it was exactly as you/your video described. Just two wire harnesses now. I'll take some pics when I put it back in.
You can remove the plastic face. It involves a couple of shrouds that use almost a dozen T8 torx bit screws and a few clips each. The clear plastic is glued to the inner of those two shrouds, so it's not a stand-alone piece. I've put the outer shroud on without the inner shroud/clear plastic and it's sturdy and secure, but your gauges wouldn't be protected at all. With the digital dash on mine, I'm not sure how much of an issue that is. With analog gauges, you might be more cautious. I've ordered some acrylic polish and will try that before putting it back together without the clear plastic.
You better love me cause apparently I’m the only one watching this 💩show