Sam, best wishes from Zacatecas, Mexico. I own the only niche maison in the state, your vids have helped me a lot. I wanted to comment that there's also black amber which contains black resins like tolu and Peru balsams, Oppoponax and such, for example, Givenchy Gentleman EDP from 2018
Great video! I once tried explaining what "amber" means in perfume to my dad who's almost nose blind and it wasn't until I started trying to explain it that I realized how confused I was as well. 😆
I don't think there is any relationship between ambergris and the common amber accord formed in perfumery. Except use of the name "amber". They are very different.
@@khairt1731 Not only that, all the "amber" accords I've smelled in perfumery are the typical imaginary ones, formed by notes such as benzoin, vanilla, and sometimes a balsam like tolu balsom. MDCI Chypre Palatin is an example. The accord is typically thick, vanillic, sweet, and opulent. Ambergris is much different.
I got a little bit confused. Correct me if i'm wrong but i only caught 3 types in the video? 1. Ambergris 2. The french accord (labdanum absolute + vanillin) 3. Woody amber synthetics
Alan Balewski (Bale Perfumes) is about to release 3 fragrancances based on actual amber which he processed chemically into some raw materials 😊 He started an TH-cam chanel where he presented some details how he made it using among others some old formulas. The fragrances are Eridan, Hispaniola and Mare Goticum. Reviews are quite enthusiastic.
Sam i have a video request. Could you make a video explaining how to make solid state cologne and perfume . and how these scent molecules and materials could perfumes transferred to that as a finished product. I love liquids don't get me wrong but there's not really any good video on how to make solid state. A few gals crafted easy stuff with aroma grade pils and bees wax . But nothing near how you present information. I mean let's be real you are our guy . And that's a wonderful menu item surly I'm not alone in this school of thought. Duke cannon and fulton and roark are not sharing the how . But you most certainly could . Just an idea . Thanks in advance.
I know one more type of material that can be called amber. Ambershamama is a traditional Indian perfume composition of spices and herbs obtained by codistillation onto a base of sandalwood/almond/coconut oil. The aroma is spicy-sweet, slightly animalistic.
Hey, Sam! I have not seen ALL videos so i may have missed the info, but do you have any raw material distributors for europians that you can recommend? The UK shops have very expensive shipping for me. Thank you, great videos, very valuable!
there are so many reference ambers that it's hard to pick one, From Bianchi amber Byzantine to Profumum Roma Ambra Aurea (2000), and again Ambre Molinard (1993), so hard to choose but Ambre Sultan (1993 ) by Christopher Sheldrake is for sure one of the most Iconic in its genre and you can get a 50ml at 60€ at discounters
Hey Sam, could you possibly help me with a proper formula on how to make a fragrance similar to Clive Christian Blonde Amber? Any kind of help would be much appreciated.
Can you do a video on how to make a baked pastry/baked good accord (unsweetened). Im trying to create a gourmand fragrance that realistically captures the butteriness and the bread-like aspects of baked goods, but I haven't been able to find any information on this.
It’s actually very hard to do. You’d probably want to use various maltol type molecules and other things which naturally occur in the Maillard reactions which create that smell in real life. But those molecules aren’t widely available
To add to the confusion, natural ambergris comes in different quality, with the lower quality ones (if i get it correctly) smelling very animalic, fecal, even bloody
Hi Sam. Can you please explain how to read and interpret a fragrance formula? For example if a formula has listed Dark patchouli 100 Jasmine absolute 18 Vetiver 16 Bergamot Superior Oil FCF 7 Rose absolute Bulgaria 5 Sandalwood Australia oil 4.5 And so on the total at the end is a 1000. So are these quanties in grams or mg? Thanks
I explain that fully in my online course with examples but it’s really quite easy: Long story short divide by the total then x by the amount you want to make
Good afternoon The so-called amber accord is a fantasy accord created not by comparison with the smell of real ambergri - which ranges from light grey to black - but by the amber colour of this accord, which is similar to the colour of fossilised amber. Amber accord is generally based on Vanillin, Labdanum resinoid and Benzoin of Siam resinoid. Other products can then be added, including one of the variants of the Ambroxan molecule, which also exists in real Ambergris. As with all perfumery accords, it depends on the purpose for which it is intended. It can be more or less sweet, more or less with a slight maritime odour - after all, ambergris comes from the sea expelled by sperm whales. For beginners, there's nothing like taking 5 or 6 products and experimenting, but bear in mind that the smell of an accord or perfume, only stabilises after weeks or even months. Hugs.
Hi Sam! I wanna be a parfumer and start my own brand like you. What I wanted to ask is if I should study chemistry or bussiness administration in college. Thanks ❤
can you make a video please on how can we make perfumr according to the size of the bottle (like how we need to work we materials if we have bottles of 100ml or 80ml...)
I love Egyptian Musk Oil! Does it have Amber? Is Amber like musk? I love a good female musk perfume! Any suggestions for Amber ladies perfumes or oils? Thank you.
Can you make a video on how to make a boozy accord like rum, brandy, or just what makes a fragrance boozy in general?
Yes
great idea
Yeahh I need it sm alsoo
Rum extract and whiskey lactone can help a lot on these
Definitely more specificity is needed when it comes to the term. Appreciate you covering the topic Sam. 🧡
Sam, best wishes from Zacatecas, Mexico. I own the only niche maison in the state, your vids have helped me a lot. I wanted to comment that there's also black amber which contains black resins like tolu and Peru balsams, Oppoponax and such, for example, Givenchy Gentleman EDP from 2018
Thank you for addressing my question, brother! You're literally the best there is at what you do. ❤
Thanks man, this note has been confusing me for a while now and finally someone answered all my questions about it.😊
Working out payed out Sam!
You look better and better in every video!
Great video! I once tried explaining what "amber" means in perfume to my dad who's almost nose blind and it wasn't until I started trying to explain it that I realized how confused I was as well. 😆
This is so cute. 😹🫶🏻
I don't think there is any relationship between ambergris and the common amber accord formed in perfumery. Except use of the name "amber". They are very different.
Maison Anthony Marmin calls ambergris "amber".
I agree amber is tree resin and not ambergris and perfumers should not confuse customers.
@@khairt1731 Not only that, all the "amber" accords I've smelled in perfumery are the typical imaginary ones, formed by notes such as benzoin, vanilla, and sometimes a balsam like tolu balsom. MDCI Chypre Palatin is an example. The accord is typically thick, vanillic, sweet, and opulent. Ambergris is much different.
Amber (Anber) is the Arabic/Persian name for ambergris
Tree amber is called Kahraman in Arabic/Persian.
I always think of a dark resinous Amber.
Great video as usual! Im almost ready to buy some ingredients. Thanks for helping us to understand so much about perfumery!
Thank you, good luck
You’ve got the best hands to play the piano. Vetiver is another ingredient that has me flummoxed 😂HugsfromNYC 🍎
Jo Malone's Pure Myrrh and Tonka is the quintessential (French) amber accord in a single perfume. And it is a masterpiece of simplicity and efficacy.
Ambre SUltan (1993) Serge Lutens by Christopher Sheldrake is one of the first ever listed together with Ambre by Molinard (1993)
I got a little bit confused. Correct me if i'm wrong but i only caught 3 types in the video?
1. Ambergris
2. The french accord (labdanum absolute + vanillin)
3. Woody amber synthetics
I have been wanting to know more about this!
Got your sample pack coming excited to try
Alan Balewski (Bale Perfumes) is about to release 3 fragrancances based on actual amber which he processed chemically into some raw materials 😊 He started an TH-cam chanel where he presented some details how he made it using among others some old formulas. The fragrances are Eridan, Hispaniola and Mare Goticum. Reviews are quite enthusiastic.
Sam i have a video request.
Could you make a video explaining how to make solid state cologne and perfume . and how these scent molecules and materials could perfumes transferred to that as a finished product. I love liquids don't get me wrong but there's not really any good video on how to make solid state.
A few gals crafted easy stuff with aroma grade pils and bees wax . But nothing near how you present information. I mean let's be real you are our guy . And that's a wonderful menu item surly I'm not alone in this school of thought.
Duke cannon and fulton and roark are not sharing the how .
But you most certainly could .
Just an idea . Thanks in advance.
Great content. What about eucalyptus ? Gum trees and eucalyptus trees also have a defensive system gum. Is it too strong for perfumery?
Thank you for your wisdom. What is a plant based natural scent booster ?
I know one more type of material that can be called amber. Ambershamama is a traditional Indian perfume composition of spices and herbs obtained by codistillation onto a base of sandalwood/almond/coconut oil. The aroma is spicy-sweet, slightly animalistic.
Hey, Sam! I have not seen ALL videos so i may have missed the info, but do you have any raw material distributors for europians that you can recommend?
The UK shops have very expensive shipping for me.
Thank you, great videos, very valuable!
there are so many reference ambers that it's hard to pick one, From Bianchi amber Byzantine to Profumum Roma Ambra Aurea (2000), and again Ambre Molinard (1993), so hard to choose but Ambre Sultan (1993 ) by Christopher Sheldrake is for sure one of the most Iconic in its genre and you can get a 50ml at 60€ at discounters
Hey Sam, could you possibly help me with a proper formula on how to make a fragrance similar to Clive Christian Blonde Amber? Any kind of help would be much appreciated.
Ambergris simply comes from the french ambre gris ai. grey amber
Very informative video. Thank you!
Can you do a video on how to make a baked pastry/baked good accord (unsweetened). Im trying to create a gourmand fragrance that realistically captures the butteriness and the bread-like aspects of baked goods, but I haven't been able to find any information on this.
It’s actually very hard to do. You’d probably want to use various maltol type molecules and other things which naturally occur in the Maillard reactions which create that smell in real life. But those molecules aren’t widely available
To add to the confusion, natural ambergris comes in different quality, with the lower quality ones (if i get it correctly) smelling very animalic, fecal, even bloody
Hi Sam. Can you please explain how to read and interpret a fragrance formula? For example if a formula has listed
Dark patchouli 100
Jasmine absolute 18
Vetiver 16
Bergamot Superior Oil FCF 7
Rose absolute Bulgaria 5
Sandalwood Australia oil 4.5
And so on the total at the end is a 1000. So are these quanties in grams or mg? Thanks
I explain that fully in my online course with examples but it’s really quite easy: Long story short divide by the total then x by the amount you want to make
thnx for good info, can you guide on musk aswell please
Good afternoon
The so-called amber accord is a fantasy accord created not by comparison with the smell of real ambergri - which ranges from light grey to black - but by the amber colour of this accord, which is similar to the colour of fossilised amber.
Amber accord is generally based on Vanillin, Labdanum resinoid and Benzoin of Siam resinoid.
Other products can then be added, including one of the variants of the Ambroxan molecule, which also exists in real Ambergris.
As with all perfumery accords, it depends on the purpose for which it is intended. It can be more or less sweet, more or less with a slight maritime odour - after all, ambergris comes from the sea expelled by sperm whales.
For beginners, there's nothing like taking 5 or 6 products and experimenting, but bear in mind that the smell of an accord or perfume, only stabilises after weeks or even months.
Hugs.
Ambroxan is the Sazon Goya of the perfumery world.
Hi Sam! I wanna be a parfumer and start my own brand like you. What I wanted to ask is if I should study chemistry or bussiness administration in college. Thanks ❤
Your best bet would probably be to study marketing to be honest, since making sales will usually be the hardest part
@@sammacer We dont have marketing as a bachelor's degree program in my country but bussiness admin have some marketing classes in it
can you make a video please on how can we make perfumr according to the size of the bottle (like how we need to work we materials if we have bottles of 100ml or 80ml...)
You need to fill your bottle and weigh the perfume it takes to fill for future reference
Should there be a concern for someone with a Shellfish allergy when using Ambergris ?
Kindly do us a favor sam create your app for Android users too. hope you make it happen stay blessed❤
Can u do one for patcholi
They are all similar no?
Myanmar amber is the best
Sam ❤❤❤❤
Thank u 🙏
I love Egyptian Musk Oil! Does it have Amber? Is Amber like musk? I love a good female musk perfume! Any suggestions for Amber ladies perfumes or oils?
Thank you.
And what about Amber Xtreme, Ambermax, Norlimbanol, Ambrocenide, etc.?
French amber is the oriental amber
Hi mate how can I contact you
Via my website
not to forget "suepr ambers"
Arrest Alejandro Mayorkas
I agree, but this is probably not the channel for this 😂
I wish the formulair app was available on Android and windows