Absolutely love your sharing of your breadth of experience, especially when you go off on tangents. So many little tips and gems interspersed around the main concept you're discussing, in this and the other videos too. This is essentially the only access to "old timer" wisdom I have, and you have it in spades. Please keep sharing!
I worked at Terex Crane for awhile, when we were installing the boom, balanced between two overhead trolleys, lining it up for the pins, first thing was don't do what Lefty did. Then get the bored bearings to alignment. Then I discovered that I could see with my naked eye, the finish was too rough, and I couldn't believe that they were lined bored. In fact, I believe they were bored first then welded on, using an old pin, to line them up. Don't know, but that's the first impression I got, and my experience, usually is right. So what does the assembly crew do. They get grinders out to waller. out the holes. Not my call, so the pin went in, over an hour later. I would have done it differently, way differently. But like you said, the customer isn't watching. and things might need repaired sooner.
I just spent 2 weeks on a job on a horizontal mill boring both ends of a 10.625" pin that was stuck in a ladle turret. 4140 steel. I started with a 12 inch long 1" drill and went from there. My mill does not have a facing chuck so i had to use 4 different size boring bars. You are right, its amazing how far a cutter can stick out and not break or chatter too badly. It was monotonous and we likely lost our shirts on the job but it had to be done. You learn quickly how to sharpen a boring tool when your on a boring mill.
Retired Tooling Applications Engineer from the automotive industry here. We would design, mfg and sell line bars to the Big 3. Inline 6 cylinder crank and cam bores can be challenging. I don’t miss it at all. Always enjoy your videos Howie!
The answering of the landline phone around 8:00 cracked me up 😂, it just reminded me of the “old days”. I operate a welding business down here in central Florida by the way & you have some pretty interesting content sir.
Would love to see more of your portable milling work. I have a climax portable keyway mill it's a great thing to have for anything that won't fit in the regular mill. Ironically I have used it for dozens of different things over the years, machining flat areas, boring out holes, making slots etc. It was just yesterday I finally used it to actually cut a keyway on a shaft of an old tractor
Bought two at a machine shop that was going out of business...one works and one has parts missing....im going to take the working one apart and reverse engineer it to get it up and running....you are Correct....if you can think of a way to use it and tool it up most anything can be done out in the Field!!
I love it when boilmakers go line boring then get a job back in a workshop and they get their ambitions mixed up with their abilities and try machining or try and tell us machinists how to machine.
@markvoluckas4571 In Australia a boilermaker is the qualification name for the welding/fabrication trade. They don't necessarily make or work on boilers anymore. As steam was phased out the qualification name didn't change.
Good info howee...been Lineboring for 20 years...a lot of lessons are trial and error and the School of hard Knocks and you never seem like you graduate....also your best Lessons are from Screwing Up!!! Lots of great info you shared with us and if someone paid attention can save many hours of head banging and Frustration that can only be Learned By Doing it....Been there and still doing that....thanks for Sharing!!
"pro tip" use the left most clamp screw of the holder to hold a fine pitch nut in parallel with the tool shank. I use 1/4-32 NEF screw held in the nut, the screw pushes on the back face of the tool shank. It allows for real precise adjustment of the diameter when you use an hex L-wrench. I use the other three clamp screws the same way a boring bar slide is tightened. The other screws provide tension on the tool holder with the middle one loose, then tighten all three at the desired adjustment.
Second tip, the mag base has the V cutout just for use like this. Put the mag base directly on the tool shaft. That way it doesn't matter if the tool holder rotates, as long as you don't knock the indicator off the bar you will maintain position relative to the tip of the cutter. If you have a large mag base and it is too big for your bar get a smaller mag base with a narrow V notch.
I scratch my head as to how some of these outfits making portable line boring units can charge 6 figures for a machine that fits in a suitcase, when you can purchase a new CNC mill for about the same price. I'd like to have a Line boring unit, but what they want for a glorified mag drill with a funky bar and feed unit... I can probably make something that works as good or better.
I've got one of those 6 figure line boring set ups, I use it on power plant repair jobs and much heavier industrial stuff like steel mill repairs etc I bought it because I don't get paid for shop projects, and the work pays well enough I can justify it. Your argument is silly You could make a CNC mill, Why dont you do that? Because you are too busy making money to justify it right? Same thing with a Climax rig for the guys that do that work all the time, and charge big bucks to do it.
@@procyonia3654 well, you utterly missed the point A CNC MILL costs 6 figures, a machine that will make far and away more money then a line boring machine, because it's not a single purpose machine, so again I ask why the f does a Climax line borer that isn't cnc, only has a single axis, and one or 2 drive motors cost as much as a 3 axis mill, with tool changer and full NC control? Oh right there's a sucker born every day
The old man that owns the shop I work at pioneered line boring. He made as far as I am concerned one of if not the first compact boring rig. Hand feed, #3 air drill. You can make one. He has made a few. Feed is achieved by a threaded rod in a slot the moves the cutter head, driven by a spur wheel that advances per revolution. Another method is a modified Bridgeport feed unit driving a bearing frame that rides a set of rails for bore mounting. You can use a modified big milwaukee mag base. You make a tack down adapter base, and a compact boring head with a morse taper. There is a learning curve to the feed rate.
@@procyonia3654 not to mention there are plenty of reasonably priced units for line boring on the market, i.e. under $2k so again I ask why pay $100k + for a machine that does the same job? considering you would need to work well over 600 hrs at $150 an hour just to break even on the damned thing.
@@christianhilditch9333 I was just thinking about the BP quill feed parts... I have most everything else, except the bar and bearings... but also, just found one on fleabay NEW for $1500. So when the time comes I need a Line bore, I have affordable options.
The hones need to be rigid, no springs. in the 3.5"-20" range sunnen is the best option, AN series. They also make smaller hones that work down to about 1.75" The smaller you go, the more the hones cost (in the used market). Mid range option, is the Lisle hone, sold by snap-on, and many others with rebranding.
@@HOWEES Thank you very much. I have a portable line boring setup. Right now I am using flap wheels. Everybody in the area seems to use flap wheels. I don't like flap wheels for the reasons you mentioned. Now I know what to look for. I really appreciate your content.
Absolutely love your sharing of your breadth of experience, especially when you go off on tangents. So many little tips and gems interspersed around the main concept you're discussing, in this and the other videos too.
This is essentially the only access to "old timer" wisdom I have, and you have it in spades. Please keep sharing!
I worked at Terex Crane for awhile, when we were installing the boom, balanced between two overhead trolleys, lining it up for the pins, first thing was don't do what Lefty did. Then get the bored bearings to alignment. Then I discovered that I could see with my naked eye, the finish was too rough, and I couldn't believe that they were lined bored. In fact, I believe they were bored first then welded on, using an old pin, to line them up. Don't know, but that's the first impression I got, and my experience, usually is right. So what does the assembly crew do. They get grinders out to waller. out the holes. Not my call, so the pin went in, over an hour later. I would have done it differently, way differently. But like you said, the customer isn't watching. and things might need repaired sooner.
I just spent 2 weeks on a job on a horizontal mill boring both ends of a 10.625" pin that was stuck in a ladle turret. 4140 steel. I started with a 12 inch long 1" drill and went from there. My mill does not have a facing chuck so i had to use 4 different size boring bars. You are right, its amazing how far a cutter can stick out and not break or chatter too badly. It was monotonous and we likely lost our shirts on the job but it had to be done. You learn quickly how to sharpen a boring tool when your on a boring mill.
Retired Tooling Applications Engineer from the automotive industry here. We would design, mfg and sell line bars to the Big 3. Inline 6 cylinder crank and cam bores can be challenging.
I don’t miss it at all.
Always enjoy your videos Howie!
Thanks for the videos! Even an old farmer self-fixer like me can learn from them!
The answering of the landline phone around 8:00 cracked me up 😂, it just reminded me of the “old days”. I operate a welding business down here in central Florida by the way & you have some pretty interesting content sir.
Would love to see more of your portable milling work. I have a climax portable keyway mill it's a great thing to have for anything that won't fit in the regular mill. Ironically I have used it for dozens of different things over the years, machining flat areas, boring out holes, making slots etc. It was just yesterday I finally used it to actually cut a keyway on a shaft of an old tractor
Bought two at a machine shop that was going out of business...one works and one has parts missing....im going to take the working one apart and reverse engineer it to get it up and running....you are Correct....if you can think of a way to use it and tool it up most anything can be done out in the Field!!
I love it when boilmakers go line boring then get a job back in a workshop and they get their ambitions mixed up with their abilities and try machining or try and tell us machinists how to machine.
What would need boring on a boiler? I have seen the oval hand holes faced before but usually milled
@markvoluckas4571 In Australia a boilermaker is the qualification name for the welding/fabrication trade. They don't necessarily make or work on boilers anymore. As steam was phased out the qualification name didn't change.
Good info howee...been Lineboring for 20 years...a lot of lessons are trial and error and the School of hard Knocks and you never seem like you graduate....also your best Lessons are from Screwing Up!!! Lots of great info you shared with us and if someone paid attention can save many hours of head banging and Frustration that can only be Learned By Doing it....Been there and still doing that....thanks for Sharing!!
This channel has loads of fabulous information Cheers
I might be in the junkyard but you’re still helping
Sometimes I’m watching every word
Sometimes in the background
But everything helps
wonderful John and Super Team........best wishes from Central Florida
"pro tip" use the left most clamp screw of the holder to hold a fine pitch nut in parallel with the tool shank. I use 1/4-32 NEF screw held in the nut, the screw pushes on the back face of the tool shank. It allows for real precise adjustment of the diameter when you use an hex L-wrench. I use the other three clamp screws the same way a boring bar slide is tightened. The other screws provide tension on the tool holder with the middle one loose, then tighten all three at the desired adjustment.
Second tip, the mag base has the V cutout just for use like this. Put the mag base directly on the tool shaft. That way it doesn't matter if the tool holder rotates, as long as you don't knock the indicator off the bar you will maintain position relative to the tip of the cutter. If you have a large mag base and it is too big for your bar get a smaller mag base with a narrow V notch.
great information on Line boring....thank you so much.......Paulie
Thanks for another great video.
Nice, I appreciate your time .
Very interesting. Nice work
John, my Father always told me, 'if you want to save your Hair, get a cigar box'
I scratch my head as to how some of these outfits making portable line boring units can charge 6 figures for a machine that fits in a suitcase, when you can purchase a new CNC mill for about the same price. I'd like to have a Line boring unit, but what they want for a glorified mag drill with a funky bar and feed unit... I can probably make something that works as good or better.
I've got one of those 6 figure line boring set ups, I use it on power plant repair jobs and much heavier industrial stuff like steel mill repairs etc
I bought it because I don't get paid for shop projects, and the work pays well enough I can justify it.
Your argument is silly You could make a CNC mill, Why dont you do that? Because you are too busy making money to justify it right? Same thing with a Climax rig for the guys that do that work all the time, and charge big bucks to do it.
@@procyonia3654 well, you utterly missed the point A CNC MILL costs 6 figures, a machine that will make far and away more money then a line boring machine, because it's not a single purpose machine, so again I ask why the f does a Climax line borer that isn't cnc, only has a single axis, and one or 2 drive motors cost as much as a 3 axis mill, with tool changer and full NC control?
Oh right there's a sucker born every day
The old man that owns the shop I work at pioneered line boring. He made as far as I am concerned one of if not the first compact boring rig. Hand feed, #3 air drill. You can make one. He has made a few. Feed is achieved by a threaded rod in a slot the moves the cutter head, driven by a spur wheel that advances per revolution. Another method is a modified Bridgeport feed unit driving a bearing frame that rides a set of rails for bore mounting. You can use a modified big milwaukee mag base. You make a tack down adapter base, and a compact boring head with a morse taper. There is a learning curve to the feed rate.
@@procyonia3654 not to mention there are plenty of reasonably priced units for line boring on the market, i.e. under $2k so again I ask why pay $100k + for a machine that does the same job? considering you would need to work well over 600 hrs at $150 an hour just to break even on the damned thing.
@@christianhilditch9333 I was just thinking about the BP quill feed parts... I have most everything else, except the bar and bearings... but also, just found one on fleabay NEW for $1500. So when the time comes I need a Line bore, I have affordable options.
I was thinking I wanted that awesome ring tone for my cell phone, then I realized that it was the shop phone with an actual big bell ringer! Lol
Ever used a Boremasters of Kenilworth Space Gauge to set Your boring tool. I have always used them. Great video as always. Cheers.
The telephone is ringing!
😂😂😂
Hey where is the cover on that electrical box, naughty naughty lol.
I have one with a vernier scale on the bar. .001 vernier but t you can dial .0005 if you get a eye loop out
I wouldn't mind seeing some line boring setups. I've never had the need so i don't know much about it. Wouldn't mind seeing some improvised setups
We just spent almost 10k on 2 seco boring heads. Can't imagine how expensive one that big would be.
Can u show a simple set for like q bucket with a mag drill
Made shop tools work better vs bought tools, I ground myself a lathe tool, the cut and finish will beat a carbide tool!
Can ur show a poor man's set up with a mag drill
What kind of hone should I be using? The cheap ones are total crap?
The hones need to be rigid, no springs. in the 3.5"-20" range sunnen is the best option, AN series. They also make smaller hones that work down to about 1.75" The smaller you go, the more the hones cost (in the used market). Mid range option, is the Lisle hone, sold by snap-on, and many others with rebranding.
@@HOWEES Thank you very much. I have a portable line boring setup. Right now I am using flap wheels. Everybody in the area seems to use flap wheels. I don't like flap wheels for the reasons you mentioned. Now I know what to look for. I really appreciate your content.
Why not stick the indicator magnet on the tool shank and if it spins it doesn’t fuck up ur measurements
Setting the indicator on the bench was just for demonstration purposes. Normally, we put the indicator on the bar we are using.
1:29 he clearly states if it turns
And I don’t particularly care how u do it I was pointing out his mistake is all for the less informed
This was such a boring video