I've done this exactly two times and will never do it again. Pull the motor in an hour, put it on a stand. So much easier torquing heads, replacing belt and adjusting valves. Plus if you aren't able to evacuate your a/c system that compressor is going to be right in your way doing the left head. Compressor fell and put a hole in my customer's condensers now I just pull the motor. Granted I'm a professional with a lift but to me it's a no-brainer. Done at least 100 subaru head jobs and just started resurfacing my own heads
Very nice, I actually started pulling motor to do them a while back. I only did this one in the car to make a video for people that can't pull the motor.
next one you should try taking block off right side and lift the left side up to get more of an angle since less clearance. no idea if itll work just a thought here. also curious if could do the DOHC engines heads like that
The only tool Subaru approves to clean off the head to block connection is a white Scotch-Brite Roloc bristle disc on a drill; otherwise you have to very carefully hand scrape with a razor blade at a sharp angle so as to not gouge the aluminum surfaces. I removed my engine and replaced all seals, gaskets, hoses, and mounts. Unfortunately I used a 10mm 12pt socket to hammer in the new intake and exhaust valve seals; and I over-hammered the first few exhaust valve seals and had to reuse the old seals. The car runs perfectly but I'm getting a puff of smoke on cold start-up and one of my exhaust manifolds is oil-soaked. So I think instead of pulling the entire engine just for the passenger head I'm going to use this method. I think I'm going to also loosen the lower transmission mount nuts, remove the upper torque pitch mount; and only use one block of wood on the passenger side. Not only does it lift the engine but it will tilt the engine so the head I want to remove is angled up slightly. So I recommend having a few extra valve seals on hand (you can return new unused ones back to the dealership) as spares as you may have a learning curve to reinstall. I replaced my head gaskets as preventative maintenance because my non-turbo is the graphite coated and not multi layer steel; always use MLS gaskets (Subaru OEM or six-star); so I had nothing warped (checked w/straightedge). One nice thing about an EJ is each head is so small that it fit in a 5-gallon bucket with Simple Green Aluminum-safe Precision Aircraft Cleaner (half gallon + boiling stove water soaked for 48 hours); I didn't even need to remove the exhaust studs to fit in the 5G bucket. Don't forget to use Subaru 50/50 coolant along with Subaru cooing system conditioner. If your EJ consumes oil but you don't want to split the block to replace the piston oil control rings; try a product called Engine Performance Restorer (EPR); it's an 11oz bottle and I used 4 oz before and after the reseal (must change oil per instructions). I'm also trying 10w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter; I have no discernable oil consumption but I'm not sure if that's due to the 10w40 or the EPR; fingers crossed that my oil control rings are working properly. I am not a mechanic but I am a mechanical engineer but I really believe that anyone with some mechanical inclination can work on an old Subaru. Lots of cheap Subarus for sale for $1500 with blown head gaskets; probably another $1500 in parts and machine shop to resurface the heads and you may have yourself a really good car. Although a blown head gasket can destroy the radiator, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter. How many parts you replace may depend on whether or not your state has emissions inspections and if you don't mind driving a car with the check engine lights on (I don't). I'd also recommend new struts, ball joints, and wheel bearings very 140K miles; the timing belt is needed every 9 years or 108K miles) and is critical as it is an interference engine. Lots of great info online and on TH-cam; there are very few specialized tools needed for a Subaru EJ; especially a non-turbo SOHC. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty; but please use very good jack stands that also have the safety pin; and chock your rear wheels. A lot of Subaru's rattle on cold startup; this can be overcome with some stainless steel wool and worm clamps.
Got fleeced by someone who sold me a bad cylinder 4 2007 impreza. Shop said leaky exhaust valves and 9.5 hours to remove and replace head. I said thanks for the diagnosis and now its in my driveway waitng for me to take off the head myself
it's crazy to be that far into it.. jacking up the engine.. etc.. Just pull the few nuts for the header pipe , the few for the trans and yank it out. it's a few more min and it'll make the job a TON easier. Unless you don't have an engine hoist that's the only real reason to not take the extra few min
With all the intricacies of the repair along with the video taping I am always wondering if you miss something and have to take everything apart a second time. Awesome vid!
Bill you are correct in having to really focus on everything. I do not generally miss anything but filming does make it interesting. Thank you for watching.
There are quite a few videos on TH-cam done by professional mechanics successfully changed heads without having them machined. A modicum of prudence should have anyone realise you cannot make universally true blanket statements like that.
Great job working in tight quarters. Thanks for sharing the tips.
You are very welcome and yes it gets a little tough. Thanks for watching
Will try it this way ....passenger side has a burnt valve or bent?
I've done this exactly two times and will never do it again. Pull the motor in an hour, put it on a stand. So much easier torquing heads, replacing belt and adjusting valves. Plus if you aren't able to evacuate your a/c system that compressor is going to be right in your way doing the left head. Compressor fell and put a hole in my customer's condensers now I just pull the motor. Granted I'm a professional with a lift but to me it's a no-brainer. Done at least 100 subaru head jobs and just started resurfacing my own heads
Very nice, I actually started pulling motor to do them a while back. I only did this one in the car to make a video for people that can't pull the motor.
Magnificent work and dedication to helping others. However!, as you said, it is easier to pull the motor.
Thank you and yes you are correct, just pull the motor
next one you should try taking block off right side and lift the left side up to get more of an angle since less clearance. no idea if itll work just a thought here. also curious if could do the DOHC engines heads like that
I'm going to pull the engine from now on its much easier
The only tool Subaru approves to clean off the head to block connection is a white Scotch-Brite Roloc bristle disc on a drill; otherwise you have to very carefully hand scrape with a razor blade at a sharp angle so as to not gouge the aluminum surfaces. I removed my engine and replaced all seals, gaskets, hoses, and mounts. Unfortunately I used a 10mm 12pt socket to hammer in the new intake and exhaust valve seals; and I over-hammered the first few exhaust valve seals and had to reuse the old seals. The car runs perfectly but I'm getting a puff of smoke on cold start-up and one of my exhaust manifolds is oil-soaked. So I think instead of pulling the entire engine just for the passenger head I'm going to use this method. I think I'm going to also loosen the lower transmission mount nuts, remove the upper torque pitch mount; and only use one block of wood on the passenger side. Not only does it lift the engine but it will tilt the engine so the head I want to remove is angled up slightly. So I recommend having a few extra valve seals on hand (you can return new unused ones back to the dealership) as spares as you may have a learning curve to reinstall. I replaced my head gaskets as preventative maintenance because my non-turbo is the graphite coated and not multi layer steel; always use MLS gaskets (Subaru OEM or six-star); so I had nothing warped (checked w/straightedge). One nice thing about an EJ is each head is so small that it fit in a 5-gallon bucket with Simple Green Aluminum-safe Precision Aircraft Cleaner (half gallon + boiling stove water soaked for 48 hours); I didn't even need to remove the exhaust studs to fit in the 5G bucket. Don't forget to use Subaru 50/50 coolant along with Subaru cooing system conditioner. If your EJ consumes oil but you don't want to split the block to replace the piston oil control rings; try a product called Engine Performance Restorer (EPR); it's an 11oz bottle and I used 4 oz before and after the reseal (must change oil per instructions). I'm also trying 10w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter; I have no discernable oil consumption but I'm not sure if that's due to the 10w40 or the EPR; fingers crossed that my oil control rings are working properly. I am not a mechanic but I am a mechanical engineer but I really believe that anyone with some mechanical inclination can work on an old Subaru. Lots of cheap Subarus for sale for $1500 with blown head gaskets; probably another $1500 in parts and machine shop to resurface the heads and you may have yourself a really good car. Although a blown head gasket can destroy the radiator, oxygen sensors, and catalytic converter. How many parts you replace may depend on whether or not your state has emissions inspections and if you don't mind driving a car with the check engine lights on (I don't). I'd also recommend new struts, ball joints, and wheel bearings very 140K miles; the timing belt is needed every 9 years or 108K miles) and is critical as it is an interference engine. Lots of great info online and on TH-cam; there are very few specialized tools needed for a Subaru EJ; especially a non-turbo SOHC. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty; but please use very good jack stands that also have the safety pin; and chock your rear wheels. A lot of Subaru's rattle on cold startup; this can be overcome with some stainless steel wool and worm clamps.
108k or 9 years is a very specific interval number 😀
Got fleeced by someone who sold me a bad cylinder 4 2007 impreza. Shop said leaky exhaust valves and 9.5 hours to remove and replace head. I said thanks for the diagnosis and now its in my driveway waitng for me to take off the head myself
Good luck
it's crazy to be that far into it.. jacking up the engine.. etc.. Just pull the few nuts for the header pipe , the few for the trans and yank it out. it's a few more min and it'll make the job a TON easier. Unless you don't have an engine hoist that's the only real reason to not take the extra few min
I normally pull the motor but some people do not have access to equipment for that so I wanted to show how to do it in the car.
With all the intricacies of the repair along with the video taping I am always wondering if you miss something and have to take everything apart a second time. Awesome vid!
Bill you are correct in having to really focus on everything. I do not generally miss anything but filming does make it interesting. Thank you for watching.
Lotta work man my hats off to ya 👍🏻👊🏻
Thank you very much. It is a bit of work. Thank you for watching.
i remember the short block i did on a sti and i seen the torque spec/sequence and I was like wtf with all these steps
Yup crazy. Thanks for watching
Subaru pistons have a polymer coating using abrasives damages the piston surface and will result in rapid carbon build up and emissions failure
Ok thanks
Thanks sir! Loved it. Doing this now...
Awesome, good luck and thanks.
How long did that take
I am not sure to be honest. Pulling the engine is much faster. Just pulling the motor is really quick
Someone come change mine real quick. In ny
Haha yeah that would be nice.
at that point just take the engine out
I do normally remove engine to do the job but wanted to show how to do it in the car if you do not have the ability to remove the engine.
This won’t do anything. Subaru’s must have the deck machined otherwise replacing the headgasket is pointless.
@Lifeperhour94 I hear you but I have done many head gasket jobs on subaru's I've never had an issue.
There are quite a few videos on TH-cam done by professional mechanics successfully changed heads without having them machined.
A modicum of prudence should have anyone realise you cannot make universally true blanket statements like that.