Interesting video. It would have been nice to see the temperature in the box during the test. Theoretically as airflow slowed/stopped, it would have increased. Also a bit confusing in that the different covering materials were I thought supposed to be for the soffit intake (certainly the screen to prevent fire embers was), but then it was laid over the exhaust side.
Thanks for the video. For a tiny home with 300sqft of attic, I calculated that I need 144sqin between the exhaust and intake, or 72sqin ea of intake and exhaust. However, I noticed that I have no soffits and am unable to make my own, so am forced to go for a gable. Being in North Texas, would a gable and whirlybird be the ideal combination? Or would a whirlybird create negative pressure in such a small space? I want to avoid ridge vents if possible and go with a static vent if needed.
Gable vents about 2x3 feet on opposite ends of attic and those cheap perforated vinyl soffits sold at lowes and Home D ( installed on ALL soffits with clear air path to attic)will do the job very well. Add an electric fan on one of those gable vents and you will have a cheap 3 tab roof last 30 years.....like mine.
As an a HVAC contractor I see this all the time! I like to install whole house fans but their is nowhere for the air to go so I don’t even bother to recommend one
Sorry about that and good catch! We filmed that intro for the video and then filmed for about 2 1/2 hours! We got a lot of content and so the answers to your questions will appear in the next 2 videos in this series. But... the Lomanco ridge vent doesn't have the filter or baffle, and it's designed to actually produce airflow and vent your attic. Hope this helps.
People ask me all the time what kind of vent is best. My answer us that static vents like our 750 work great when there are enough of them and when there is adequate intake. Ridge Vent, turbine vents, and power vents don't just really on convection. A ridge vent with external baffles actively draws air out of the attic. There will be more on that in upcoming videos.
So, I didn't catch it but basically do lamanco products flow as stated. If it says 50, you get 50 sqin for example? The lamanco 550 pro exhaust vent seems to be heavily used. Second is there any harm in going slightly over 60% on the intake 65% etc. it seems like if anything you're preventing cobwebs and whatnot from dropping as the years go on. I've heard it said you cannot have too much intake ventilation provided it's evenly distributed around the house? Agree?
what do yall think about sealing the roof entirely instead of venting? i understand the reason behind venting but how does that stack up against just heavily insulating and sealing the roof and then just let the hvac cool not only the "living space" but also the attic itself. i would say if you don't have insulation on the roof itself and or only on the floor of the attic venting is the only option to reduce the heat buildup and transfer to the live area and even the roof tiles themselves, but if you have 6-8inches of insulation on the roof and turn that attic into a storage space/loft then ventilation is just blowing your cooled air out into the open for no purpose (or at least as far as i can tell). leme know if i'm totally off base or if i'm understanding the mechanics well behind this. ps: which would be more energy efficient in the long run. i'm confident the heavy insulation of the roof would be more costly but your getting a cooled loft/storage area outa it, just not sure if it would actually be cheaper on the heating/cooling bills than just trying to blow the hot air out of there with an energy free passive blower system.
@@homesteadroofing ty for your feedback sir. Since getting out ive been trying to educate myself on everything I'd need to know to build a home. Its been a long process and I still don't feel ready.
We just got a re-roof in Florida...sorry to report all that came were deficit in their knowledge of ventilation...all of them.... Here we have the 150 NFA rule too. Watch out these guys are clyelless
I, too, have seen that the crew doing the work aren't the ones with the knowledge about systems. ...perhaps, their foreman., or, someone "back at the office"?
looks like the % data coming thru is based simply on the rpm spin of the fan and not true CFM thru the openings.. example, the ridge vent filter, certainly there is some flow happening when a fan and its speed isnt a factor
Excellent video. THANK YOU! A roofing company wants to install Cobra intake vents which is a mesh vent. I think it is a terrible idea. Airflow is reduced by 80% when new, and as those vents accumulate dust and dirt, airflow will drop even further. Maybe I'll suggest that they watch this video.
Make it a REQUIREMENT that they use the ridge vent you want on YOUR roof. They have a reason to advise using the Cobra brand, which may not include your best interests.
Very informative video however it was very confusing that he was using the intake filters on the discharge side at the fan? Unless you fully understood what he was doing it was misleading in a way. He should have been putting the different filters on the lower intake.
As far as I'm concerned, your ENTIRE ridge venting concept is completely USELESS. So, you build the roof up the the apex, but not quite? Then, you have to worry if it's all even and junk, and how much it's "raised", if you wanna call it that, above this long gap you got in the top of the roof. Sorry, but this joke of an "engineering' concept is not only useless, but needless work to maintain. Your ridge venting can't possibly, on your best day, evacuate the stifling hot air where I live out of the roof like a convection fan tube or any rotating electric or naturally rotating ventilation. Period. I'll call the collective bluffs against ANY of you so-called experts, "engineers", or whoever you are.
Here in Florida also, my soffit vents are covered with insulation. I wouldn't have considered this without this video and the statement at the end.
Interesting video. It would have been nice to see the temperature in the box during the test. Theoretically as airflow slowed/stopped, it would have increased.
Also a bit confusing in that the different covering materials were I thought supposed to be for the soffit intake (certainly the screen to prevent fire embers was), but then it was laid over the exhaust side.
very informative video. they showed which filters NOT to use, but did not mention which ones are OK use - likely need some filter!?
The video is about the Lomanco vents.
Thanks for the video. For a tiny home with 300sqft of attic, I calculated that I need 144sqin between the exhaust and intake, or 72sqin ea of intake and exhaust. However, I noticed that I have no soffits and am unable to make my own, so am forced to go for a gable. Being in North Texas, would a gable and whirlybird be the ideal combination? Or would a whirlybird create negative pressure in such a small space? I want to avoid ridge vents if possible and go with a static vent if needed.
Gable vents about 2x3 feet on opposite ends of attic and those cheap perforated vinyl soffits sold at lowes and Home D ( installed on ALL soffits with clear air path to attic)will do the job very well. Add an electric fan on one of those gable vents and you will have a cheap 3 tab roof last 30 years.....like mine.
As an a HVAC contractor I see this all the time! I like to install whole house fans but their is nowhere for the air to go so I don’t even bother to recommend one
Did I miss something whats the best ventilation system for my house and best ridge vent system? I have a ranch home
Sorry about that and good catch!
We filmed that intro for the video and then filmed for about 2 1/2 hours! We got a lot of content and so the answers to your questions will appear in the next 2 videos in this series.
But... the Lomanco ridge vent doesn't have the filter or baffle, and it's designed to actually produce airflow and vent your attic.
Hope this helps.
People ask me all the time what kind of vent is best. My answer us that static vents like our 750 work great when there are enough of them and when there is adequate intake. Ridge Vent, turbine vents, and power vents don't just really on convection. A ridge vent with external baffles actively draws air out of the attic. There will be more on that in upcoming videos.
So, I didn't catch it but basically do lamanco products flow as stated. If it says 50, you get 50 sqin for example? The lamanco 550 pro exhaust vent seems to be heavily used. Second is there any harm in going slightly over 60% on the intake 65% etc. it seems like if anything you're preventing cobwebs and whatnot from dropping as the years go on. I've heard it said you cannot have too much intake ventilation provided it's evenly distributed around the house? Agree?
If you're going to err, err on the side of intake.
@@homesteadroofing Air can, sometimes, find alternate routes to exit.
what do yall think about sealing the roof entirely instead of venting? i understand the reason behind venting but how does that stack up against just heavily insulating and sealing the roof and then just let the hvac cool not only the "living space" but also the attic itself. i would say if you don't have insulation on the roof itself and or only on the floor of the attic venting is the only option to reduce the heat buildup and transfer to the live area and even the roof tiles themselves, but if you have 6-8inches of insulation on the roof and turn that attic into a storage space/loft then ventilation is just blowing your cooled air out into the open for no purpose (or at least as far as i can tell).
leme know if i'm totally off base or if i'm understanding the mechanics well behind this. ps: which would be more energy efficient in the long run. i'm confident the heavy insulation of the roof would be more costly but your getting a cooled loft/storage area outa it, just not sure if it would actually be cheaper on the heating/cooling bills than just trying to blow the hot air out of there with an energy free passive blower system.
I've checked into the closed cell insulation a little bit and I like that idea so far
@@homesteadroofing ty for your feedback sir. Since getting out ive been trying to educate myself on everything I'd need to know to build a home. Its been a long process and I still don't feel ready.
@@ProudVet-Russ Take your plans to an architect. S/he can help you with the design, including optimal air flow designs. It would be money well spent.
Enjoyed the video! I am used to ridge vents, but here in Florida they tend to use a different venting system.
What do they use there?
We just got a re-roof in Florida...sorry to report all that came were deficit in their knowledge of ventilation...all of them....
Here we have the 150 NFA rule too.
Watch out these guys are clyelless
I, too, have seen that the crew doing the work aren't the ones with the knowledge about systems. ...perhaps, their foreman., or, someone "back at the office"?
looks like the % data coming thru is based simply on the rpm spin of the fan and not true CFM thru the openings.. example, the ridge vent filter,
certainly there is some flow happening when a fan and its speed isnt a factor
Yes, there is, still, the openings around the fan blades. It will require a certain airspeed to overcome the inertia of the fan.
Excellent video. THANK YOU! A roofing company wants to install Cobra intake vents which is a mesh vent. I think it is a terrible idea. Airflow is reduced by 80% when new, and as those vents accumulate dust and dirt, airflow will drop even further. Maybe I'll suggest that they watch this video.
Make it a REQUIREMENT that they use the ridge vent you want on YOUR roof. They have a reason to advise using the Cobra brand, which may not include your best interests.
Very informative video however it was very confusing that he was using the intake filters on the discharge side at the fan? Unless you fully understood what he was doing it was misleading in a way. He should have been putting the different filters on the lower intake.
But the screens, baffles, and filters are on the exhaust vents, not the intake vents (though some have screens)
Ok so remove the filter from the ridge vent and inflow edge vent and voila, problem solved.
As far as I'm concerned, your ENTIRE ridge venting concept is completely USELESS. So, you build the roof up the the apex, but not quite? Then, you have to worry if it's all even and junk, and how much it's "raised", if you wanna call it that, above this long gap you got in the top of the roof. Sorry, but this joke of an "engineering' concept is not only useless, but needless work to maintain. Your ridge venting can't possibly, on your best day, evacuate the stifling hot air where I live out of the roof like a convection fan tube or any rotating electric or naturally rotating ventilation. Period. I'll call the collective bluffs against ANY of you so-called experts, "engineers", or whoever you are.
You seem upset.
Who hurt you?